Align the knife. Amazing knife sharpening technology. Do not wash the knife in the dishwasher
Forrest Gump 21-09-2008 12:10
I know it's wrong...
Hit with a knife in a sheet of chipboard
The nose of the blade is slightly bent at a length of 7-9 mm.
How to straighten?
Knife "Sagittarius" (Chrysostom). Blade RWL-34
asi 21-09-2008 12:13
I would send back to Zlatoust with a question about MOT.
Andrew Nick 21-09-2008 12:30
I recently brought my son Opinel 4-ku from France. When throwing at the hardboard door, the tip also bent so badly that I had to straighten it with pliers.
Eugene 21-09-2008 12:37
I would send to Zlatoust with a question about MOT.
What do you not like about TO? It is better to cut crooked or straightened than to be left with a bunch of splinters.
asi 21-09-2008 12:45
quote: Originally posted by Eugeny:
What do you not like about TO? It is better to cut crooked or straightened than to be left with a bunch of splinters.
well, then cut with a piece of roofing iron.
work3 21-09-2008 01:26
How about a photo? Not sure how thick the tip is.
Fet 21-09-2008 10:25
Well, try putting the rails on a piece and gently straighten it with a hammer, lightly. In fact, it can break down.
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 12:13
Clamp into large yews and dosing the effort to straighten ... business then ...
PPa 21-09-2008 13:50
With a hammer, slowly from the side of the bend, along the concave, not convex.
Forrest Gump 21-09-2008 14:35
Thank you all for your participation.
The situation was resolved with the help of good pliers.
Thanks again.
Andrew Nick 21-09-2008 14:40
It's a shitty knife, IMHO.
Or (if it belongs to the class of crowbars) it holds such an effort without deformation, which is difficult to develop with pliers ...
head 21-09-2008 15:03
quote: Originally posted by Andrew Nik:
It's a shitty knife, IMHO.
A good wedge (if flexible) allows a large elastic deformation without residual marks.
Or (if it belongs to the class of crowbars) it holds such an effort without deformation, which is difficult to develop with pliers ...
Forrest Gump 21-09-2008 15:39
2 Andrew Nik, chief - agrees with you in many respects
But "Sagittarius" is my first knife and I like it so far.
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:09
Let me do the same for Myself, what will you say then?
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:12
Forrest Gump, don't worry everything is OK. powder behave like that.
Maximka69 21-09-2008 16:15
Although not Friday, I caught the humor. That's just the tip to straighten the tip probably not ice. And in general they don’t show on themselves, a bad omen Sori for off
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:23
Of course, you don’t need to wear it yourself, but on Sebenz we’ll give some comrades with great pleasure, so that they know what kind of plasticine the deified k.r. sells to them.
asi 21-09-2008 16:23
come on, hit yourself on a chipboard sheet and see what happens to the tip ...
almost sure that NOTHING will happen, and this is taking into account the fact that her tip is thinner than that of this knife
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:29
What will happen ... Yes, it will bend! it will not break, at 58 it will bend like a drink.
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:42
Here, at 60 or more, it will spring a little, and then crack ... and kranty. High-chromium tends to be so .. at such hardnesses. But this does not mean at all that the steel is not in order ...
asi 21-09-2008 16:46
58 in itself there will be more.
and at 58 I don’t think that I will bend from the chipboard when I tested the s30v and bg42 sebs - there was nothing with them.
DrWinter 21-09-2008 16:56
quote: Originally posted by GAU-8A:
Let me do the same for Myself, what will you say then?
I don't know, I'm not a fortune teller. I can only assume that the very tip will bend. But not a point along the length of 7-9 m.m., like a topikstarter.
In fact - give Cebu a Fet crash test, it will be much more useful than rhetorical remarks.
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:58
Sash, it’s not about yourself or miles, but about the property of powdered ones at different hardnesses ... when I tortured the edges on the 30th or 60th on the nail, I found to my surprise that these steels did not behave like carbon steel ... I bent their cool wave and nothing! another steel would have clicked for a long time, but these do not ... this is neither good nor bad - this is a given.
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 16:59
quote: give Cebu a Fet crash test,
In! exactly.
asi 21-09-2008 17:03
ahh happy.
let Fet torment his fantozzi
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 17:21
By the way, do you remember how Dmitry bent the tip at Game Verdun? And there infya 59ed.
asi 21-09-2008 18:10
So, remember what he did.
I’m talking about chipboard from a blow, it shouldn’t bend so easily.
I'm not saying that he shouldn't bend - but not from such light loads.
unless a specialist stuck it crooked and bent.
or metal
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 18:16
quote: I’m talking about chipboard from a blow, it shouldn’t bend so easily.
Well, okay... your version?
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 18:27
What stones (N) do you finish sharpening in front of the rope .... in microns?
asi 21-09-2008 18:27
Eugene 21-09-2008 18:50
For powder steels, such a deformation at working hardness is absolutely normal. Harden a little higher, it will split into a bunch of fragments.
Forrest Gump 21-09-2008 20:10
quote: Originally posted by asi:
or the author does not say anything - they probably threw him into a sheet of chipboard
I did not throw a knife - it was not bought for this.
I hit the chipboard sheet 3 (three) times.
The last time the hand trembled and the blow really wagged in the final phase.
The knife survived the first two direct blows.
GAU-8A 21-09-2008 21:12
I noticed that the bend received upon impact is not at all what can be obtained with a slow loading of the blade ... once a friend and I threw a rather large stainless steel knife 95x18 into a log shed ... after one throw with all its might, the knife hit flat on the log flew off ... picking it up, I saw that the wedge was evenly bent. And this is what happened - he hit flat just on a log and in a fraction of a second went around it ... he was hardened by about 58 units. I also witnessed how a large folding knife thrown into a wooden door entered it at an angle, pulling out a large chip ... the tip was bent at a much larger angle than the author of the topic. The fold was still Soviet, and there were only carbon steels.
Hello, friends!
After sharpening, I would like to say a few words about straightening knives.
As it was written earlier, a well-sharpened knife will not necessarily shave. And we cannot allow this. Otherwise, how to drink vodka in a team :-) Why is that?
In the video below, I tried to show and explain everything, but repetition is the mother of learning.
What is sharpening, we more or less figured out. What is an edit? I don’t know how much my opinion is comparable to reality, but I see it that way.
The very end of the cutting edge, just the place that it directly cuts, is not only as thick as foil, it is literally hundreds, if not tens of molecules thick. imagine foil. If you draw its edge along the finger strictly perpendicularly, the cut is guaranteed. And it’s worth pushing a little to the side and it bends and breaks, well, like ... foil :-) And the edge of the RK is even thinner. Therefore, any deviation from the 90-degree angle will jam it. Any solid inclusion (for example, a grain of sand in cardboard) breaks off pieces from the RK, and then there is also a microserrator from stones during sharpening. Scary? Yeah. But thank God, all of the above happens at the micro level and becomes noticeable far from immediately.
Why am I so long and tedious? I just think that it’s not enough for me to be able to keep the angle when sharpening, you need to understand WHAT and WHY you are doing.
1. Zamines. If the knife began to cut worse, do not rush to grab the sharpener. Take moussat. Most likely, jams formed on the RK. The ones at the micro level. Take the moussat and run it several times over the blade. But not as when sharpening, but as if straightening the jams. those. the main force from the butt to the edge of the RC. No moussat, you can do this on the board for editing.
2. Micro and sometimes not micro chips and micro serration from stones during sharpening. In this case, we take the board for editing. This is a board with leather glued to it, and preferably two pieces of leather, which are covered with a special paste or not covered. And on this board the blade is corrected.
This is how it's stored in my pantry.
In principle, bare skin can also be used, as our grandfathers and their grandfathers did. But civilization is moving forward and it is a sin not to take advantage of its results.
My first straightening board was homemade and I corrected on GOI paste. An amazing thing, but the board and pasta had to be presented to dad. And I ordered a board and pasta overseas. And at once I will note NEVER REGRETED.
This is the side with black (gray) paste, I think the grid is about 1000. It is intended for “rough” grinding. Removes chips, micro-surrey, etc.
This is the side with white paste, I think about 3000 grid. After processing on this paste, the blade will shave your muscular male arms 100% :-)
See the video for more details.
This is not in the video, but I would like to note. In my experience, I have noticed that the now popular steel 8Cr13MoV has one strange property. If you edit it on the paste “in the mirror”, then the cut “blurs” very quickly, and if you stop earlier, the shave stops pretty quickly but cuts tolerably for a long time.
In the end, I want to say that I am not a sharpening guru. Described only the main points of the work. According to the execution of which your knives will be in the state that is pleasant to work with and not ashamed to show to others.
Who wants to go deep and bother - God help you, maniacs and Guru are now full of YouTube. There would be a desire, but there will be a "teacher". Good luck to all! Try, contact, if anything, and try not to cut yourself :-)
P.S. While I was writing this article, this was happening in the house. 
Few cutting objects in this world can match the sharpness and quality of the cutting edge with Japanese katanas, so we invited Vasily Ivanov, the head of the historical workshop for the creation of traditional Japanese weapons, as an expert consultant.
The classic musat is a steel rod with risks, through which you can straighten the cutting edge with a knife. An indispensable tool for a professional (and not only) cook
Lansky Deluxe Quick Edge with tungsten carbide V-groove. Uses motion along the PK, so only suitable for small edits.
Lansky Professional Knife Sharpening System Precisely maintains the sharpening angle, but does not allow you to fasten a knife with a thin blade to the butt without play. When sharpening long blades, you will need to “intercept” the knife in the clamp.
Lansky Mini Knife Sharpener Angle is fixed, movement along the RK. Only suitable for small edits.
Firstly, there is a bending of the cutting edge due to the smallest unevenness of the material being cut and the deviation (even small) of the blade plane from the cut plane. Secondly, the cutting edge is worn and chipped. Typically, such chipping occurs at the micro level, but if too hard objects are cut with a knife, or, for example, when cutting meat, the knife bumps into a bone, the cutting edge bends and crumbles already so that it becomes visible to the naked eye.
Correcting
The folded edge can be straightened out. To do this, use a simple device - musat, a round steel (sometimes ceramic) rod with risks-edges applied to it. Passing a slightly blunt knife along the musat (as if “cutting off” a thin upper layer from it), you can effectively straighten the RK. If necessary, editing is carried out quite often - professional chefs, for example, do this several times an hour (and not necessarily with musat, you can correct the RK on the butt of the second knife with a spectacular movement).
Tochim
If the cutting edge is no longer amenable to simple repair, the knife needs sharpening and/or finishing. To do this, you can use water or oil stones - slate or ceramic. The main secret is to accurately maintain the angle of convergence of the RK. Depending on the purpose, it is different: for surgical instruments 8-15 degrees, for kitchen knives - 15-30, for axes - 40-45 (the harder the material being cut, the greater the angle, otherwise the RK will crumble). In addition, you only need to drive the knife perpendicular to the RK (or at a close angle), in the direction from the blade to the butt, as if cutting a thin layer from the stone. It is necessary to use the entire surface of the stone and not take the knife beyond it. You should never sharpen a knife along the RC: micro-scratches perpendicular to the cutting edge work like the teeth of a microsaw, while longitudinal ones are useless, and besides, they reduce the strength of the RC.
We repair
If the knife is not used for its intended purpose - for example, to cut bones or nails with it - the case will end with a chipped cutting edge. Such a knife requires repair, that is, a complete restoration of the Republic of Kazakhstan. To do this, it is necessary to grind off a sufficient layer of metal and re-form the geometry of the RC. And then carry out the above operations - sharpening and editing. Correctly maintaining the desired angle at all stages is very difficult, especially for an inexperienced grinder. Manufacturers have come up with many sharpening devices that, in theory, should facilitate this process. We tried some of them and were disappointed: none came close to ideal. So the surest way to sharpen knives is still patience and a steady hand.
If there is no desire or opportunity to replace / repair a knife that has become unusable from the master, but they need to work, our advice will help. With their help, it will be possible to repair the handle and fix the blade itself.
Types of blade defects and ways to eliminate them
Chips and deformations on the cutting edge
The most common type of damage is chipping or deformation of the cutting edge. They should not be confused with blunting: in this case, the line formed at the point where the supplies converge simply ceases to be imaginary and forms an additional plane that glares in the light; chips are uneven damage to this very line of convergence. If you turn the knife towards you with the side where it has a cutting edge, or carefully look at the blade from the side, you will see the chippedness. These are the chips. In case of deformations, on the contrary, the cutting edge retains its integrity, but “goes in a wave” - it bends in different directions, preventing a comfortable cut.
How do we do it? To do this, we completely remove the metal to the place where the descents end and the supplies begin. If the blade has a profile without supplies, we grind to the place where the deepest chip ends or where the deformation of the cutting edge began. We should get a smooth additional surface, from which we have to “extract” the updated cutting edge. This is done in three stages: first, the blade is sharpened rough to determine where and how much metal should be removed from the slopes, then the slopes are polished on both sides (that is, the approach is leveled - it is made the same in thickness along the entire length of the blade), and then the final fine-tuning.
broken point
If the very tip of the blade is broken off, it's okay, the repair is done in almost the same way as the previous case. First, the blade is ground, giving it the necessary shape, then it is sharpened, forming new slopes, and only then the cutting edge is brought out with the desired angle. An option for the lazy is to grind off some metal from the butt and create a new tip just below the location of the former.
Scratches and chips on the golomens (side surfaces of the blade)
This and the next type of damage are the most difficult to repair. Usually the blade has sufficient hardness to withstand everyday mechanical damage, that is, the risk of scratching it on something is unlikely. Most often, golomeni are scratched during careless sharpening, when not carts or the lower part of the slopes are applied to the grindstone, if there are no carts, but the entire blade is flat.
You can remove shallow damage on a grinding wheel or sandpaper laid on a flat surface, for example, on glass (ordinary GOI paste on a polishing wheel is unlikely to cope with them). If the steel is hardened, it will be very difficult to do this. After all, in addition to removing a deep scratch, you will also have to level the hole left on the surface of the blade from it.
Blade Warp
It is often another complex type of damage - an “unhealthy” bend is obtained when something heavy is pryed with a knife. Even if we perform the exact reverse action, we will either get an additional bend, or even break the blade (for example, if the steel is hardened to high units of hardness, that is, one that does not bend, but simply breaks under lateral load).
If the blade is flexible, it should be clamped in a vice through wooden spacers and carefully straightened with your hands, observing safety measures, and always with gloves (preferably chain mail or specially designed to protect against cuts). When the blade takes on a shape close to its original shape, it can be laid on a flat surface and tapped with the narrow side of the hammer, removing the remaining deformations and finally leveling.
Repair or change of handle
Handles are divided into two main types - overhead and mounted. Before working with the handle, tightly wrap something around the blade so as not to get injured; To do this, you can use adhesive tape, electrical tape or a strip of fabric, the ends of which are tacked with threads or glue.
Insertion of pins
Most often, the backlash of the handle occurs if the pins and rivets that attach it to the shank are loosened or completely fall out. In this case, the repair is done like this:
- both plates that make up the handle are removed;
- their inner surfaces, as well as the surface of the shank, are cleaned of glue and adjusted to each other with a file or emery to exclude both backlash and gaps when mating with each other;
- the parts are lubricated with a new two-component adhesive and tightly applied to each other;
- pins are inserted;
- the resulting assembly is securely fixed with clamps or in a vice and left to dry completely, after which the protruding ends of the pins are cut off and ground.
This is important: during the drying of the glue, you should not apply too much force to the assembly (for example, put the handle under the press). The assembly can “float” under excessive load and lock in the wrong position with respect to the pins that have not yet been sheared. The finished product after repair will be unusable.
Changing the handle on a knife with a mounted mount is done in the same way, but instead of the old handle, a new one is taken. In the Japanese tradition, the shank is generally made in such a way that even at home, the old handle from a magnolia chef's knife can be knocked down and a ready-made new one, which is sold as a consumable, can be planted. In the budget segment, for the manufacture of handles, for the most part, not the most suitable types of wood are used, including those with defects; to hide the defectiveness of the material, a thick layer of paint and varnish is placed on the handle, which makes it slippery and uncomfortable. Replacing such a handle is forced and allows you to radically improve not only the appearance of the knife, but also the safety of working with it.
Useful advice: instead of varnishing, a wooden handle can be protected from rotting and damage by regularly oiling it with natural compounds, such as clove oil or boiled linseed oil.
If the knife has a slippery handle, but there is no stop (guard or developed bolster), you can drill a hole at the end of the handle, thread a lanyard cord into it and put the resulting loop on your wrist - it will prevent your hand from slipping onto the blade and injuring yourself.
If you're making a guard yourself, check with current legislation so you don't accidentally modify a regular knife into something that would qualify as a melee weapon.
The knife does not have to be repaired if it is purchased from a reliable seller, but it is used only for its intended purpose. You can find out how to use knives correctly, how to store and care for them, in other articles on our blog.
Each of those who cook constantly, and not occasionally, has his favorite knife. It fits perfectly in your hand, cuts flawlessly, you have a complete understanding and it seems that it will last forever ... Yes, a kitchen knife can last you a long time, especially if it is a good and high-quality knife - but the opposite can happen.
A new knife, created especially for me by a hereditary Japanese blacksmith, appeared in my possession not so long ago, only six months ago. At first, I could not stop admiring it and literally blew off dust particles from it, and then a small chip appeared on the blade. Of course, it doesn’t happen that way, this chip doesn’t interfere so much, and after several sharpening cycles it will completely disappear, only this knife will no longer be the same flawless dream knife that I first got it out of the box. And all because I broke one of the rules, which I will write about below. Remember it and at the same time 9 others so that your favorite knife will serve you as long as possible.
Do not cut on glass or stone
The nasty noises that are heard when you cut something on a glass or marble cutting board are not just metal scratching on glass. This is your knife screaming in horror and pain, because at this very moment you are driving it to the grave with your own hands.
Use only wood or plastic boards, never glass or stone. And don't ask yourself what the companies that make them are thinking about in this case: anything but the safety of your knife and the thousands of others they have already sent to the landfill.
Don't leave your knife in the kitchen drawer
If your knife dangles freely among other kitchen tools and utensils, it will inevitably result in chips and nicks (as well as a cut if you stick your hand into the drawer without looking).
You can use a table stand to store your knife, but if you don't have a lot of space in your kitchen, this isn't very convenient. In this case, the easiest solution is to get protective plastic cases that keep the knife blades intact.
Don't throw the knife down the sink
The sinks are made of metal or ceramic, they are slippery, after eating they put plates and dirty dishes. And yes, your knife, hitting the sink, will dangle along it, bumping into the walls of the sink and the edges of the plates. Or, even worse, he will hide in soapy water, where he will wait for the moment when your unsuspecting hand stumbles upon him.
Never leave a knife in the sink. It is best to wash the knife immediately after use, before you even wash the rest of the dishes.
Do not wash the knife in the dishwasher
A kitchen knife does not belong in the dishwasher, and it does not matter if you put it on the grate or insert it into the cutlery holder. The high-pressure water flow will move the knife from side to side, it will hit the grate and inevitably become dull.
Always wash your knife with your hands only.
Don't put your knife in the dish dryer
The dish dryer is another place where any knife is dangerous to stay. In theory, it is possible that each time you carefully place the knife on a specially designated drying place for it, it is made of high-quality stainless steel and you take care of it carefully, so you can not be afraid of rust. In reality, a knife that gets into a dish dryer stumbles with a blade on other kitchen utensils and plates, microscopic cracks and scratches appear on it, and under the influence of rust they grow and increase.
The moral of the previous three tips is simple - always wash your knife with your hands only, and always dry it with a towel immediately after washing.
Do not scrape the cutting board with a knife
You've just finely chopped an onion, the pieces are scattered all over the board, and you run your blade across the surface of the board to gather them together and transfer them to the pan. I know, I know, it's very convenient, I do it myself all the time. The problem is that the blade of a knife is quite strong as long as you push it from above perpendicular to the board - but if you push it from the side, it can easily bend. And this will happen immediately, after which your knife will no longer be as sharp as before.
If you can't get rid of this habit, hold the knife blade at a sharp angle, almost parallel to the board, or do the same thing, but with the opposite side of the knife. Better yet, get a special kitchen scraper designed specifically for this purpose.
Do not cut frozen food with a knife
A piece of frozen meat or fish can be compared with a block of ice in its hardness, and if you are trying to cut food that has not yet been completely thawed, chips on the blade cannot be avoided. If you really need to cut meat straight out of the freezer, use a kitchen hatchet that will do the job much better.
For the same reason, you should not use a kitchen knife to cut bones with it.
Don't use a dull knife
A dull knife requires a lot of force, and this increases the chance that your knife will slip and cut you - and the result can be much worse than a small cut that a sharp knife will leave if you use it carefully. In a word, keeping a knife sharp is not only good for your convenience, but also for your safety.
In general, there are two types of blunt knives. The first is when the knife blade gradually curves due to the fact that it is subjected to pressure from one side or the other, and instead of a straight line, it begins to resemble a wavy one. However, it will not work to see this difference, but to notice that your knife began to cut more slowly is completely. Regular use of musat will straighten the blade and cut more comfortably.
In addition to this gradual curvature, the blade also gradually wears out, and the moment will come when one musat will no longer be enough. For these purposes, it is worth having a set of water stones to sharpen the knife yourself, or take it to a professional grinder.
Do not leave the knife close to the edge of the table
The dumbest thing you can do with a knife is to lay it down so that the handle hangs over the edge of the table. An awkward movement and someone could be left without a toe, or, no less terrible, the point of the knife could break off.
Place the knife so that it cannot fall, even if it is accidentally brushed off. And if the knife still falls - do not try to catch it, but jump to the side and pick up the knife only after it freezes on the floor.
Do not misuse the knife
Everyone, or almost everyone, has done this at least once in their life, and this is another habit we need to get rid of. Your knife is not a screwdriver or a bottle opener, and you should not try to use it for other purposes.
Never misuse a knife.
I hope this article, inspired by Serious Eats, will help you keep your knives safe and sound. Do you have a favorite kitchen knife, and if so, what brand?