Decorating a home doesn't always require a lot of money. A person with an aesthetic taste, who knows how to create something with his own hands, can make a cute interior little thing literally “out of nothing”. Old kitchen utensils, the remains of some ribbons, pieces of plastic and foil - everything goes into business. I suggest trying to upgrade old dishes, so that later you can use it as a decor item.

Materials needed for decoupage on metal: an old dish (for example, an enameled mug), white and brown acrylic paints, acetone, decoupage agent (special glue), automotive acrylic paint in an aerosol, decoupage napkin, candle, washcloth for washing dishes ( or foam sponge), soft brush, solvent-based spray varnish.

First of all, we are preparing a drawing for the restoration of an old mug. We will do decoupage on a metal surface, and glue small roses. Lift the top layer of paper and tear out a few small rose branches from the napkin.

Thoroughly wash the old enameled mug, wipe it with acetone from the outside and from the inside. This will remove old dirt and degrease the metal surface. Although this mug has picturesque chips and rust that has appeared, decoupage cannot be done on it right away, first we will prepare the surface.

Priming metal (especially rusty) is best done with spray automotive paint. Spray it on the mug from a distance of 20-30 centimeters in an even layer (work outside, as this paint has an odor). Such paint dries quickly, so for a two-layer coating and complete drying you will need 10 minutes. Automotive paint will help prevent further rust.

Then, we paint over the ground with ordinary acrylic brown paint. We apply it with a foam rubber sponge or washcloth for washing dishes.

Now we arm ourselves with an ordinary candle and rub the mug with it in those places where we want to see cracks. That is, we will have to make an imitation of rust exactly in those places where it appears in real, old objects.

Further - everything is very simple: again we paint the mug white, but now we use ordinary acrylic paint (we apply it with foam rubber). When it dries, turn the washcloth over with the back, hard side and carefully rub it in a mug. In those places where a candle was rubbed under white paint, beautiful cracks appear. It turns out the same peeled old mug, but this effect will be advantageous in decoupage.

We apply the torn branches of roses to the mug and coat them with decoupage agent, any that is available. You should use a soft brush, and smear the product from the center of the pieces in different directions.

When the glued roses are completely dry, spray the decoupage with a non-water-based spray varnish. We apply two layers to be sure of the strength of the varnish.

Such a mug can simply be put on a shelf. It looks quite vintage and it will be a beautiful element of your interior.

You can then plant dried flowers in it, in winter - a sprig of spruce, and in summer - a bouquet of your favorite flowers. Since the inside of the mug is primed with automotive enamel, it is resistant to water.

The master class was held by Maria Svetailo, Sumy.

Materials:
galvanized 5 liter bucket;
napkins for decoupage;
acrylic paints;
brushes;
masking tape;
PVA glue;
sandpaper grit 240;
foam sponge;
table white napkins;
old toothbrush;
acrylic varnish.

How to decoupage a bucket.

We prepare the bucket for work - we seal the edges with masking tape so that they do not stain and in the future the bucket can be used for its intended purpose. Then we pass sandpaper over the entire surface so that the paint sets better with the surface and degrease with alcohol. We primed the bucket with white acrylic paint.

1

Making point movements with a foam rubber sponge, we paint over the surface with white paint in several layers to even out the background.

2

We tear out the motif from the napkin as close to the edge as possible. Between the long elements we break through the napkin to the pattern. Separate the top layer of the napkin.

3

We dilute the PVA glue with water 1: 1 and coat it with glue on top of the napkin, smoothing out the folds with a brush or pulling the napkin by the edges.

4

With a white table napkin, carefully, so as not to pull the motif, blot excess glue.

5

With the help of a foam rubber sponge, we make the background with ivory paint in several layers. With a sponge, carefully go to the edges of the napkin so that the background merges with the background on the motive.

6

Dilute the colors of terracotta and brown shades and make shadows with a dry hard brush. If the shadows turned out to be very dark and sharp, then they can be smoothed out with the color of the main background.

7

Using an old toothbrush, we spray droplets of different colors: bronze, light gold, burnt umber, light ocher, white.

8

We cover the bucket with acrylic varnish in several layers with good drying after each layer. After the 2nd layer go over lightly with sandpaper to remove all the bumps and then coat again.

Decoupage on a metal surface

Lesson 9. Decoupage of metal surfaces

Features of decoupage of metal surfaces

General rules for decoupage for metal

If there is rust, then be sure to treat it with a rust converter. Moreover, we process until all the rust is gone, repeated processing may be necessary. If this is not done, then corrosion will certainly go further and soon the decor may fall off.
Sanding of all metal surfaces is mandatory. The only exceptions are well-polished surfaces, such as stainless steel.
Be sure to degrease. In this case, we not only degrease, but also remove the remains of the rust converter.
We prime in decoupage for metal with a special primer - enamel on rust. Three times, with intermediate sanding. Primer - it is better to take white enamel, so as not to prime again later.
Prints can be glued to urethane varnish, they adhere well, but only on more or less even surfaces, since urethane varnish does not make the paper plastic, as acrylic varnish does, and if your surface is too curved, then the motif may not stick.
If the decor needs to be made strong, you can generally refuse to use water products.
When painting and hovering the background, you can use the same primer - enamel on rust, mixed with acrylic paints or gouache to the desired color.
Before applying the finish in decoupage for metal, the surface must be well sanded, it must be as smooth as possible. Alkyd-urethane varnishes are all self-levelling and self-levelling, so if the surface is well sanded beforehand, and then a sufficient amount (but not overdone) of the finishing varnish is applied, then there will be no streaks or streaks.
Non-aqueous products always turn yellow to some extent, so if your product is not vintage, it is better not to apply more than a couple of layers of finish.
It must be remembered that all non-aqueous products have an odor, often unpleasant, and use them in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.
If the metal is heated, for example, samovars, lanterns, kerosene lamps, then heat-resistant paints and varnishes should be used.

Now let's go through all the metal surfaces for decoupage on metal in turn.

Decoupage of galvanized iron and aluminum utensils

The most striking example of a galvanized blank for decoupage for metal is everyone's favorite metal watering can from Ikea, which only the lazy did not decoupage. So, in order:
Be sure to skin well.
Be sure to degrease with acetone
We prime the soil - with enamel over rust three times with intermediate sanding with zero
Glue the print
Background, painting
Skinning
Finish coat

Decoupage of painted metal

Thermoses, trays, tea and cookie boxes, planters, mailboxes, spice jars and many other painted metal objects are used in metal decoupage. Wherein:

Be sure to wash off the old paint using a special remover for old paintwork surfaces (sold in hardware stores). Do not neglect this point, since the apparent speed of decoupage with unremoved paint will result in the fact that you still have to remove this paint, but already along with the decor. It will be a shame because it will be, so it is better to wash it off immediately.
Sand the surface well.
Degrease with acetone.
Priming the primer - enamel on rust.
Sand well.
Paste the print.
Sanding.
Finish coating.

Decoupage stainless steel

Stainless steel items - teapots, pots, flasks, thermoses are also often the object of decoupage for metal, flasks are especially popular - a good gift and done quite quickly.

If the stainless surface is well processed, it can not be sanded, degreased well enough.
You can also not primer, and if you take a print on thin paper, you get a very beautiful silvery glimpse.
Background and underdrawing.
We varnish and sand well.
Finish surface.

Decoupage cast iron

Decoupage of cast irons, old cast iron irons has been very fashionable lately, some make watches out of old cast iron pans.

The most important thing. The cast-iron surface is very uneven, so we skin it very well with a large sandpaper. If this is not done, then in the process of work all the irregularities will definitely appear, and they still have to be removed.
We degrease.
We prime.
I'm sanding the soil.
I glue the print.
Background, drawing.
Finish coating.

Decoupage of enamelware

Cans, mugs, coffee pots, saucepans and many other enameled utensils are the subject of do-it-yourself metal decoupage.

Unlike painted surfaces, we do not wash off the enamel, but we skin it very well, giving the surface the necessary roughness for better adhesion to the ground.
Degrease with acetone.
We primed in three layers with sanding. If the enameled object is light, then you can not primer. And if the object is still light, but there is a drawing, then the entire surface will have to be primed, because if only the drawing is primed, it will be very visible, it will differ in color.
Glue the print.
Background, drawing.
We finish the entire surface of the product, even if the print is smaller in size.

Well, my dears, we have considered the topic of metal decoupage for beginners. Write questions in the comments, I will definitely try to answer.
Always yours, Miroslava.

MK No. 1 _______________________________________________

MK No. 2 ____________________________________________

Master class on decoupage on a metal surface "Lacy overflows of summer"

Today we will prepare for spring and decorate two elegant metal planters that will become an amazing decoration for our home.

We will work in decoupage technique.

Materials:

1. metal blanks
2. alcohol
3. acrylic primer
4. sandpaper
5. sponge
6. synthetic brush
7. acrylic paints
8. one step craquelure
9. napkins
10. synthetic varnish

Step 1

Degrease the surface of the pots with alcohol.

We moisten a piece of sponge with acrylic primer, remove the excess so that the sponge is semi-dry, and apply primer to the surface of the planter with light “bumping” movements. We do not press hard, the movements should be soft and fast, if bubbles form, walk over this place with a dry sponge.

When all pots are covered with soil, leave it to dry.

We do the same with the second pot.

Step 2

We decide what color the cracks will be on our planters. I chose lilac for one, pink for the second.

You can take several shades of the range we need - this will make our cracks more interesting.

With such light “bang” movements we apply the paint of the desired shade; here you can not try to make the color transitions smooth and imperceptible, because. we will then cover this colored background with white paint, through which our cracks will appear.

After the paint is applied, let it dry properly. Then, with fine sandpaper, we go over the entire surface with paint, remove irregularities from the sponge. Strongly not three, so as not to tear off the paint. The goal is to level the surface.

Step 3

We apply craquelure.

I do this with my finger, gently apply craquelure to the entire painted surface of the planter. We make sure there are no leaks.

Let dry for about 30-40 minutes.

Step 4

When the craquelure is completely dry, apply white paint with a sponge.

You need to try to do it quickly and, if possible, do not go through the same place twice. Movements should be light, fast, precise.

Cracks should appear before your eyes. We are waiting for the paint to dry.

Step 5

We choose the motif that we would like to see on the pots. Carefully tear out the elements we need from the napkin.

Separate the two bottom layers. We apply the top layer with the picture to the place we need.

We glue the motif with a flat synthetic brush and PVA glue. We carefully coat the motif from the center to the edges, trying to smooth out the formed folds. We work carefully so as not to tear the napkin.

We leave to dry.

Step 6

Lacquering pots.

To do this, we need a synthetic varnish.

Gently with a flat brush, apply varnish to the surface of the pots.

We are waiting for the varnish to dry, apply another layer. Lacquering until the result is satisfactory.

Here's what I got:

Inspiration and spring mood!

MK 3____________________________________

What needs to be prepared:

• napkins;
• acrylic paints: white and multi-colored (you can get by with white acrylic paint and artistic gouache);
• acrylic primer for metal;
• acrylic varnish;
• sandpaper (fine);
• brushes (wide synthetic + thin for painting);
• a palette for mixing paints (or a disposable plastic plate);
• a glass of water for rinsing brushes;
• narrow masking tape;
• new sponge.

Decor step by step

Step 1: prepare the metal surface for subsequent decorating work. To do this, thoroughly wash and treat the surface with a degreasing agent using a cotton pad or cloth.

Step 2: The master class is designed for beginners, so proceed with the following steps safely! We begin to prime the surface, this must be done carefully with a brush. White acrylic primer eliminates the need to paint the object with several layers of paint. Also, the primer ensures the adhesion of all subsequent layers to the metal base. Therefore, the stage is very important for the quality of the finished product.. Apply paint to the dried primed surface. You can get by with white, but this is not so interesting - the cream color is more noble and suitable for any interior. The class of decorative art is determined by the number of shades of color.

To get warm shades, mix white paint and a few drops of burnt umber on the palette, add a little yellow. Add paint or gouache in very small portions, control the process to get the right color. Apply the finished color to the watering can with a sponge with tamponing movements. Dry.

Step 3: Use nail scissors to cut out a piece of napkin and carefully remove the bottom white layers. They are not used during operation. If you forget to remove it, then the pattern glued from several layers will wrinkle. In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish. Gently, starting from the top edge, attach a napkin. Smooth with a soft cloth and coat with glue (varnish). The drawing can be from different sides, act in such a way as to glue everything, but do not damage the previous work. Dry, cover everything made with acrylic varnish and dry again. The high class of the product is characterized by impeccable execution.

In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish!

Step 4: This can be finished, but the subject clearly lacks character, so additional drawing is required. To get a straight line when painting a part of an object in a different color, use masking tape. Stick it in the place where the separation will be, make sure that the tape fits snugly, otherwise the paint will spread and a clear line will not work. Each decoupage master has his own techniques for drawing a straight line - masking tape is the most popular.

Step 5: Using a wide flat brush, draw an imitation of ribbon stitches, but first make a markup with a simple pencil. To do this, mix acrylic paints in a plate in such a way that one edge of the brush captures a light tone and the other a dark tone of paint. Dry the paint and apply varnish on top, dry. Now you should give depth to the picture - shade the leaves. It is worth shading with a gray tint with the addition of barely noticeable greenery. Do this stage of the artwork with a thin brush.

In order for the paint to lay down well, dilute it a little with water (it is important that it does not spread at the same time). Put a smear along the contour, or slightly capturing the edge of the picture, do not leave white spots. So that the rest of the field does not seem empty, put dots with a thin brush - this will be an imitation of small peas. Decoupage completed.

Step 6: Varnish the entire work, make two or three layers. Treat the surface with fine sandpaper, wipe and varnish again.

Using the step-by-step instructions described, the master class will allow you to master the technique and technology. Thanks to it, you can decorate a bucket, coffee pot, planter and any other metal object. The decoupage master will also add the luxury of an art object to an old metal iron. The work uses not only napkins, but also postcards, magazine illustrations, photos.

Part 1. -

Decoupage on glass, metal and plastic and other non-absorbent surfaces(leatherette, glazed ceramics, etc.) requires primers with high adhesion (adhesion to the surface), as well as some additional surface preparation steps.

Let's take a closer look.

Let's start with the ground.

How to prime glass, metal, plastic for decoupage?

You already know that primers (paints) are both artistic and construction. By the way, more and more artistic ones have appeared lately, and not only for wood, but even for metal.

Therefore, we can choose from the following means:
— building primers for glass and metal;
– construction enamels for radiators, rust enamels;
— aerosol primers, varnishes and paints;
- artistic grounds, on which it is written that they can be used for priming glass and metal.

Aerosol + construction paint (art primer)

I prefer to work with colorless spray varnishes: firstly, they are not water-based and therefore provide excellent adhesion to the surface and subsequent layers of paint. Secondly, they are quite inexpensive, but they last for a long time (which cannot be said about artistic primers). And thirdly, colorless varnishes can be used as top coats (this is especially convenient on embossed surfaces).

How do I do it:

1. I apply 1-2 thin or medium layers of varnish, dry;
2. Then I prime with ordinary building paint until a white surface is obtained.
Spray paint adheres well to non-absorbent surfaces, and acrylic adheres well on top. Next comes decor, varnishing - and we get a durable stable coating.

If we take spray white paint and try to prime the work only this paint, we will see that:

1. Aerosol consumption in this case will be greater;
2. It will be quite difficult to get a smooth white surface, especially on a dark green surface of a champagne bottle;
3. Leaks are unlikely to be avoided.

So try a combination aerosol + regular primer- I'm sure you'll be pleased. Such a primer is torn off the glass with difficulty, it needs to be scratched. I barely scraped off the plastic Christmas balls with a knife ...

Why should not glass, metal, plastic be primed with ordinary primers or paints?

Because ordinary primers and paints do not provide good adhesion to a non-absorbent surface, and if moisture gets in, they can move away, or even slide, leaving hard-to-remove wrinkles on the surface. This is especially likely with poor drying (for example, with a hairdryer). And in general, the stronger our decor sits, the stronger it will subsequently hold.

Remember this photo? Unfinished thin. Sonet primer on glass when applying a wet wipe

My favorite aerosols - Bosny and Alpina, the line has colorless paints(they are varnishes), like matte, and glossy, white and other colors, metallics. Many people also recommend Kudo primer, but I think since any spray paint is not water based, any should lay down well and hold on tight.

Other primers with high adhesion

Aerosol paints and primers smell, and you can’t work with them in the apartment, only on the street or on the balcony, at the entrance. But you need to apply only 1-2 layers, then you can use ordinary acrylic paints. But if you don't have spray paint you can use liquid primers with high adhesion, i.e. those applied with a brush. The most famous - Tikkurila Otex, suitable for glass, metal, plastic, ceramic, etc. It is also non-aqueous (alkyd) based and most likely smells. The brush needs to be washed with white spirit - another odorous activity.

You can choose other primers for glass and metal, anti-corrosion primers, enamels for radiators, etc., but all of them will non-aqueous(and, therefore, will smell and the brush will have to be washed with solvent). Be prepared for this.

At the same time, now began to appear artistic primers that say they are suitable for glass and metal. I haven't tried them myself, but you can try. Their advantage is a small volume, but for the price, as always, building materials are preferable (and the quality is the same).

Now let's take a closer look at preparation of non-absorbent surfaces for decoupage.

Decoupage on glass: how to prime glass and ceramics

If we work with glass, then we have two decor options: direct decoupage and reverse decoupage. Direct decoupage is a decor on the front side of the glass, reverse - respectively, on the reverse side, i.e. behind glass (see more about reverse decoupage).

In any case, the first stage is good wash up glass product, remove all stickers, labels, price tags and excise stamps (some are well washed off with water, and some can only be removed with acetone). Further it is necessary degrease the surface to be decorated (the first option is to wipe the glass with acetone or alcohol, the second option is to wash it not just in water, but with dishwashing detergent: as a rule, this is enough).

For reverse decoupage, this is all, but for direct decoupage, of course, we still need to prime the product (how exactly to do this, how many layers to apply - in the next article). I do it according to my method (1-2 coats of spray varnish, then 2-3 coats of regular white building paint). Naturally, everything needs to be dried thoroughly, but skin with care, only with the most fine-grained sandpaper without strong pressure (it’s better not to sand at all, but just prime it very evenly). If you use liquid primers or paints, try to lightly sand the glass first, then the paint will go better.

Similarly, we process glazed ceramics(glaze is a glassy mass that does not let water through and, of course, does not absorb anything). It is quite possible to decorate glazed flower pots, but a problem arises with pots: our decor will come into contact with water that has spilled onto the stand and will gradually begin to flake off and turn yellow. What to do? Probably just make sure that there is no water in the stand ...

Decoupage on metal: how to prime

Metal surfaces are various flasks, buckets, watering cans and other items that decoupage girls love to decorate.

Metal blanks can be divided into new and old, with traces of rust. New surfaces simply need to be degreased and lightly sanded. before priming, and from the old ones you still have to clean off all the dirt and be sure to remove the rust with a special tool- rust converter (sold in hardware and automotive stores). At the same time, we first clean off all the rust with sandpaper, as much as possible, and then apply the converter. If you do not clean the rust to the end, then later it can appear under the decor in the form of ugly spots. However, unfortunately, even with a converter, no one guarantees the durability of the decor ...

By the way, if the surface is heavily rusted, then after removing the rust, it is advisable to prime it. anti-corrosion primer, and not with conventional primers for metal. And I draw your attention to the fact that any anti-rust products are designed to slow down rust formation rather than stop it. Therefore, to take risks or not - it's up to you :)

So, after treating the surface with a rust converter, we must wash off this same converter (if necessary according to the instructions), and then degrease the surface (required!) After that, you can sand it a little for better adhesion of the soil to the surface, and treat it with anti-corrosion primer. And then - the usual direct decoupage.

Also, if your product is painted, then it is desirable remove all old paint- sand or use a remover for old paint (this is also a chemistry that is sold in hardware or hardware stores).

New metal blanks, as I already wrote, are degreased and lightly sanded, and then primed with metal primers, rust enamels, radiator enamels, etc. Or, again, with an aerosol and then regular acrylic.

Important! If there are any defects on the product, then it is better to cover them with putty only after priming - otherwise the putty will simply have nothing to catch on.

How to prime plastic, plastic and polymer clay in decoupage

Before decorating, we, as usual, wash the product and degrease it. After that sanding with fine sandpaper for better adhesion to the surface. Farther - primer with high adhesion and decor. By the way, if the plastic is white, then you can go over the sanded surface with aerosol varnish and no longer prime it (of course, if you create the main background with paints).

A few more words about leatherette. Unlike genuine leather, imitation leather is fabric glued with thin plastic, and the soil, of course, it does not absorb. Leatherette blanks must be degreased, and very carefully, with acetone, in order to also erase the paint, which is often used to paint leatherette. If, when processing with acetone, you see that the cotton pad is slightly stained, do not be lazy and remove as much paint as possible, otherwise it can penetrate the soil and even stain the napkin. Then you can sand the surface with a thin sandpaper and then primer. Soils choose elastic and with good adhesion, spray varnish plus acrylic artistic paint is a great option, the decor holds tight and does not crack or peel off at the fold. Construction will not work, it is inelastic!

A little about the operation of such products.

Water is the main enemy of non-absorbent surfaces, so if you are decorating vases, watering cans, pots or salad bowls, for example, and are going to use them for their intended purpose, then keep in mind: soak these products in water strictly prohibited, and even washing under running water is undesirable. The best option is to wipe with a damp cloth as little as possible. And even a good varnish will not solve this problem. The point is this: these objects consist of two surfaces: external and internal. We decorate one of them, and the second remains open, and the most dangerous thing is the ingress of water on joint between them. It is at the junction that water can touch our decor and begin to peel it off. So the joint is especially important to prime and varnish with high quality. If you varnish with non-aqueous varnishes (especially yacht varnishes), then when varnishing it is better go beyond the line of soil and decor, then there is less chance that water will get under the primer and paint. And if water - then it is better not to go beyond this line, and in general, all hope is only for the primer, because acrylic varnish without primer, when water enters, exfoliates from a non-absorbent surface, like any acrylic paint.

Part 1. How to choose a primer for decoupage —

There are a lot of plastic items around us. Plastic is good because it is light, strong enough and cheap. Many people think that plastic is a heavy subject for decoupage, but this is not so. The point is the surface, it must be properly prepared. Decoupage on plastic is now a leader among those who are fond of such arts and crafts, it is as popular as decorating wooden surfaces.

Most plastic items have an absolutely faceless and depressing look. But the decoupage technique can quite easily turn such despondency into a completely new and unique piece.

Decoupage on plastic has some tricks and rules:

1. The surface is carefully prepared. First, the base is degreased with a solution containing alcohol, then sanded with fine-grained sandpaper to give it a slight roughness.
2. A primer is applied to the surface, it will help to adhere the base to each subsequent coating and prevent decoupage from peeling off.
3. The surface is covered with acrylic paint in two layers, the paint should be of a light tone. If thicker paper is used, it is allowed to dye it dark. At that moment, while the paint dries, you can cut out paper pictures of interest. Usually three-layer napkins, decoupage cards or rice paper are chosen, but this is not necessary.
4. After the paint has dried, one of the most interesting and difficult stages of work begins - paper motifs are glued. To do this, take a special glue for decoupage. If three-layer napkins are taken, the glue is slightly diluted with water; for thick paper media, a concentrated composition is needed.
5. Another layer of glue is applied, the resulting composition is put to dry. Excess glue is wiped off with a towel or clean rag.

After drying, the object is varnished. It will take at least two coats, but preferably 3-4, so the composition will be even and protected.

A huge advantage of decoupage is that when using the same napkins, completely different versions of the finished product are obtained.

We consider decoupage on leather and leatherette: a master class

Each has items made of natural or artificial leather. Often they require updating or decorating, and the purchased new diary or other documents will be a wonderful gift after decorating with your own hands.

There are several nuances of the process itself:

1. For the primer, it is better to take an elastic varnish and a primer. For soft leather material, it is necessary to take a primer like titanium white.
2. For decoupage of diaries made of leather or its substitutes, you should not take material with extruded letters or numbers. Putty or texture pastes will crumble from them, it will be impossible to sand them. It is necessary to choose a smooth surface, if there is a pattern on it, it can be washed off with acetone.
3. When choosing motifs for decoupage, it must be taken into account that transferring the pattern through the spine will not be a good idea. The varnish may crack and the image may completely lag behind the material. It is better to stick two pictures, it will be more durable.

Decoupage on the skin is good for beginner craftswomen, it is not difficult to perform and extremely exciting. With imagination and skillful hands, you can give a second life to any old item.

Step by step decoupage looks like this:

• skinning occurs;
• The surface is wiped with acetone;
• Leather or leatherette primed;
• The picture is pasted;
• Drawing is in progress;
• Finishing work with the surface.

In this way, you can update not only old bags and wallets, but even shoes, which is especially valuable.

Review: decoupage on plastic with napkins

People have always been drawn to creativity, even in the most everyday little things. One of these types of creativity is decoupage. Plastic products using decoupage technique are very popular due to the fact that plastic occupies a significant place among artificial things. Napkins and paper are easily found in various craft stores. If you can't find them, even magazine clippings will do.

For the technique you will need the following tools:

• Napkins or paper for decoupage;
• Cutter and scissors;
• Acrylic paints;
• Special glue;
• tassel;

Often the chosen napkin cannot convey the whole idea that the needlewoman would like to put into it. In this case, you can finish the application yourself by painting the necessary elements on top of it with acrylic paints.

Various decoupage on metal surfaces

The topic of decoupage for metal is very extensive, it has many subtleties and nuances.

The general rules look like this:

1. In the presence of rust, it is necessary to treat the surface with a rust converter. More than one treatment may be needed, otherwise the decor may collapse due to corrosion.
2. All metal surfaces are sanded. This does not apply to stainless steel.
3. The surface is degreased.
4. There is a primer with the help of a special primer-enamel on rust. A similar action is repeated three times, in the interval - it is skinned. Enamel should be white, this will help to avoid excess primer.
5. Prints are glued onto urethane varnish. The background is painted and hovered. In this case, you can use primer-enamel by mixing it with acrylic or gouache paints.
6. Before the final steps, the surface must be sanded, so it will become as even as possible.

Painted metal can also be used as decoupage. Any thermos or tray, jar and even a mailbox will do. In this case, it is necessary to get rid of the old paint, if you do not complete this item, you will later have to get rid of the paint along with the decor. Galvanized iron and dishes are also amenable to decoupage. You can use an iron watering can and decorate it as your heart desires.

Decoupage lends itself to stainless steel, and cast iron, and enameled dishes. Buckets, coffee pots and cans are decorated easily and simply.

Plastic bottles: decoupage

Decoupage of plastic bottles is very easy and simple to perform. Someone wants to decorate a bottle for liquid soap, someone - a spray bottle for spraying plants.

Stages of work:

1. First you need to prepare all the necessary materials, remove the label from the bottle. The bottle is thoroughly washed, dried, degreased with nail polish remover.
2. The neck is sealed with electrical tape, the tape is glued with a vertical strip on one side of the bottle.
3. A piece of foam rubber is fastened with a clothespin, with the help of this device it is very convenient to apply acrylic paint to the surface of the bottle. The bottle is held by the neck.
4. After the paint dries, a second layer is applied, the necessary motif is cut out of the napkin. Glue is applied to the middle of the picture and distributed. The surface should not be uneven or convex, all flaws must be smoothed out.
5. After the picture dries, the jar is covered with acrylic varnish in two layers. The electrical tape is removed, the places where there is no varnish are wiped with a wet cloth.

Glitter can be applied to the finished surface and rubbed with your fingers. Thus, some flaws will be hidden if the master is a beginner, and the iridescent effect will add mystery to the product.

From mayonnaise buckets or any container, thanks to decoupage, you can get a sugar bowl or a vase. Any patterns and decor can be easily applied to the surface of the bucket, from such buckets, as a result, excellent flower pots are obtained.

Points of interest: decoupage brushing

Brushing can turn a box into a true work of art. A brushed piece of furniture will look interesting, and not the complex process of its manufacture will bring pleasure. The brushing technique is suitable for wood species with a good structure. The most suitable tree would be pine.

Brush will require for itself:

• workpiece;
• picture;
• Finishing type of varnish;
• Lacquer to give an aged look to the product;
• colored wax;
• Special glue;
• Brush with metal bristles;
• Gas blowtorch.

Glazing is a method of applying a thin transparent layer of paint, with which you can tint a tree.

Decoupage for metal (video)

Decoupage is a very interesting technique. It allows you to make a wide range of products to please family and friends. Decoupage can be both on wooden surfaces, and on plastic and foam plastic, on a plate, on a wavy or glossy surface. Beautiful decoupage of round boxes. It can be accompanied by keraplast, constructing fancy flowers. Decoupage of records can be a gift to a music lover.