We make a water heated floor. We make a water heated floor with our own hands. Step-by-step instructions Do-it-yourself water-heated floor installation

Warm floors heated by water are quite an attractive solution. But if you want to install them yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals and without spending money on their services, you will have to thoroughly study the topic and learn all the subtleties. You should know both the principles of connection and the methodology for constructing the base. Laying will also have to be done using special technology.

Design

There are many types of underfloor heating on the market. It is produced by dozens of leading manufacturers. But regardless of the specific brand and model obligatory components are:

• a boiler that heats water;
• water pump;
• ball valves (they are placed at the inlet to the boiler);
• pipes;
• a collector device that allows you to set up and regulate floor heating at your discretion;
• fittings, through which the main route is mounted, starting from the heater, and pipes are also connected to the collectors.

Each of these constituent elements has its own characteristics. So, the pipes must be made of polypropylene with a reinforcing glass fiber layer, otherwise there is a great risk of their excessive expansion in the hot state. Polyethylene has a lower level of thermal expansion. In this case, the optimal diameter of the pipes is from 1.6 to 2 cm. Find out when buying whether they can withstand a pressure of 10 bar when pumping water heated to 95 degrees.

The collector, through which water enters the pipeline, is sometimes called a splitter. One of these devices sorts hot water into heating circuits, and the other collects it after passing through the entire system. Both devices are placed inside the manifold cabinet. High-quality performance of the collector grouping also includes:

• valves;
• air outlets;
• devices that regulate water consumption;
• units for accelerated outflow of liquid in a critical situation.

A manifold with a shut-off valve is impractical, so it is better to choose options equipped with control systems that provide a smooth change in the flow of coolant into one or another circuit.

The exact length and installation step when installing pipes is calculated individually for all rooms (rooms). There are no uniform standards here. If you do not feel prepared enough for self-calculation using specialized software, use the services of design organizations. Designers will need to know what the size of the room is, how powerful the boiler will be installed, what the walls in the house (apartment) are made of, what are the properties of the ceilings and partitions. Be sure to take into account the type of flooring, the device of the insulation layer and the diameter of the pipes.

The project should indicate not only the length of the pipe, but also the installation step and the rational laying path. Additionally, heat losses and hydraulic resistance are calculated (it must be strictly the same in each circuit). It is undesirable to use large contours (100 m and longer).

It is better to divide each such into several smaller ones. All circuits are strictly one pipe, so joints and couplings when laying in a screed are prohibited. Verandas, attics and loggias are heated separately from the adjacent rooms.

Remember that you need to lay the pipes, starting from the outer walls, and the uniformity of the decrease in heating is achieved through the "snake" scheme.

In rooms where there are only internal walls, the design of the warm floor should be spiral, directed from the boundaries of the room to its middle. In this case, a double step is maintained between any pair of turns.

For your information: you should select and buy a collector only after how the number of contours and their characteristic features will be calculated. The simplest solution, equipped with only shut-off valves, is relatively cheap, but the lack of flexibility in adjustment will cause many inconveniences. The other extreme to be avoided is an expensive manifold equipped with servo drives and pre-mixers.

Such equipment in a private house or apartment is completely superfluous, with the exception of giant cottages. When deciding which boiler to install, be guided, first of all, by its power, which, even when operating in peak design mode, should have a reserve of at least 15%.

To ensure the mixing of hot and cold coolant, thermostatic mixers are used. They are two-way (paired structures are placed on the supply and return pipes) and three-way (with the addition of an electric drive, they are mounted on the boiler outlet). Take care of the presence of a servo drive, a thermostat: investments in these devices are justified by the fact that it will be more convenient to use the system. Servo drives are placed on the water supply combs.

Mechanical thermostats are relatively simple and reliable in use, so they are easy to use even for people who are poorly versed in technology. Electronic controllers are a little more complicated, and if necessary, you will have to purchase a programmable device to flexibly adjust the parameters of the underfloor heating.

Having understood in general terms the device and the configuration of floor heating equipment, let's now see how it works. From the boiler (in rare cases, from a heated towel rail), water enters the pipeline. Passing through the thermostatic valve, it transfers a certain amount of heat to it. When a certain temperature is reached, the valve starts the process of mixing water taken from the return pipeline. For this purpose, a two-way or three-way valve is opened, installed before the circulation pump (inside a special jumper).

The mixed liquid, having passed through the circulation pump, touches the thermostat, which ultimately gives commands to open and close the coolant supply from the return circuit to the main one. Thanks to this scheme, the water temperature is maintained within a predetermined range of values ​​​​and is instantly corrected when deviating from it. Then the water passes into the distribution manifold (but only in a large room, where there is a need to distribute the coolant over several circuits and then pump it in the opposite direction).

Mounting a warm floor in several rooms at once, install a temperature control manifold. This is necessary not only because each requires its own degree of heating, but also because a completely identical circuit length cannot be maintained. Adjustment is especially useful if one of the rooms is internal and the other has external walls.

Thermostats can measure the heating of the air in the room, or the temperature of the floor. Focus on what is important to you and do not confuse these two types.

Make sure there is a bypass in the heating system. It will allow you to keep the equipment in perfect order, if suddenly the water supply to all circuits is stopped at the same time.

Pros and cons

Water heated floor economical. The low temperature of the coolant (not exceeding 50 degrees) will reduce the current consumption of the electric boiler by 20% (compared to heating with radiators). Homogeneous heating of the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling with a physiologically comfortable temperature distribution (22 degrees on the floor itself, 18 degrees on the face level) can also be considered a positive side. The hidden location of the heating system completely eliminates burns and mechanical injuries in direct contact with it and the coolant, which is especially important if there are children in the house.

Safe water floor serves for a long time. Competently executed installation and correct selection of components allows using the system for 30-40 years. Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages. For example, increased installation complexity (if you do not understand the problem well enough or do not have the necessary experience, contact professionals, or choose the electric option). If the installation is carried out with errors, this not only reduces the heating efficiency, but also increases the risk of leakage.

If, due to installation errors, natural wear or any other problem, water starts to leak, you will have to disassemble the floor, dismantle the heating structure, change it completely or partially, and only then reconnect it. Finally, in private residential buildings it will not be possible to use water floors as the only sources of heat.

Long-term (tens of hours) warming up cannot be considered a disadvantage: especially since significant thermal inertia will allow the floor to stably heat the air even during short-term interruptions. Be prepared that laying a water floor (even with your own hands) will be significantly more expensive than installing its electric version. Some materials in terms of 1 sq m can cost at least 1500 rubles. When a brigade is involved, it will need to pay no less.

A good result is achieved if the floor is raised by at least 10 cm. Costs are also associated with the installation of control systems, manifold cabinets and air outlet valves.

Where is it used?

Such a heating system in an apartment room can only be used theoretically. The technical obstacles are very serious. The fact is that it is extremely dangerous and simply forbidden to supply the pipeline with ready-made hot water, and special heating of cold water is expensive and complicated. In addition, any effective systems are voluminous and heavy, that is, they take up a considerable part of the height of the room, exerting a significant load on the surface of the floor and ceilings.

In a private wooden house, the thermal loads on individual circuits, if they differ, are insignificant. Therefore, carefully consider whether it is worth installing expensive, complex automatic control systems in a small home. A large cottage or house with unheated rooms is another matter.

It is quite possible to lay a water floor in a frame house, but its installation has an important difference - due to the foundation being lightened to the limit, it will be necessary to abandon the use of heavy concrete screeds or cement-sand mixtures. It is more correct to use dry polystyrene styling. It was specially designed for frame dwellings. Please note that in order for the thermal effect to be maximum, you will also have to think about good insulation of the external walls, which are usually made thin.

The water floor heating system has its own specifics in the bathroom. If it is installed in an apartment, we recommend that you get advice from the design organization, as well as form and register an official project and obtain consent from the neighbors. It is advisable to feed the circuit with a coolant from a heated towel rail, and two-way valves at the inlet will allow not to reduce the temperature of the water below and above the riser. Regardless of whether you need to heat the bathroom in an apartment or in a private house, pay maximum attention to waterproofing. It is worth spending money on a special kind of film or euroruberoid.

The base is poured using expanded clay or fine gravel. To eliminate the appearance of irregularities, beacons must be set up. Please note that you should not walk on the bathroom floors filled with screed for 5-6 days. In this case, you will regularly have to wet the surface, otherwise it may crack. Since a rare builder will be able to independently produce a cement mixture (which will not be covered with an intricate pattern of cracks in the next few years), it is better to purchase a fully prepared composition in the store. And to do experiments another time, when thinking through the design of a heated bathroom, for example.

Tools for work

In the process of installing water heated floors, you need to use 18 different tools. You will definitely need:

• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• construction dryer.

From hand tools you will need:

• scissors;
• regular saw;
• saw for metal;
• work knife;
• a hammer;
• bit;
• vise;
• pliers;
• file.

Work with coatings is carried out with a spatula and a paint brush. You need to measure the required dimensions with a tape measure and a meter ruler, but in addition to them, you will also need a grinding mesh or sandpaper.

In addition to tools, you will need materials:

• for thermal insulation, foil mats made of expanded polystyrene are most often used, or plates of the same material processed by extrusion;
• damper self-adhesive tape should have a thickness of 0.5 to 1 cm. Pipes are fastened with brackets, mounting strips, swivel arcs and some other details.

Foundation preparation

According to the technology, the old screed must be completely removed so that the base floor is exposed. Immediately level the floor surface if the deviation from the horizontal exceeds 1 cm. If cracks, chips and cracks remain after removing the old floor covering, use a cement or gypsum leveling mixture. Further, making sure that there is no dust, dirt and debris left on the surface, a layer of waterproofing is placed on top of it.

The perimeter of the base is occupied by a damper tape, which will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the main floor covering during heating. It is important to consider when there are several contours at once, the tape should also be placed in the intervals of contours close to each other.

To reduce unproductive heat loss, you will have to additionally insulate the floor. Only rarely is it originally ready in this sense. The choice of thermal insulation material is determined by the following considerations:

• if the warm floor serves only as an assistant to the main heating system, you can limit yourself to polyethylene foam with a reflective foil layer;
• when the apartment is located above the heated parts of the building, it is required to use extruded polystyrene foam 2-5 cm thick, or no less durable substitutes;
• in apartments located above a cold basement, more serious protection is required - expanded clay is poured and expanded polystyrene is laid with a total layer of 5 cm or more.

Modern manufacturers offer special insulating materials for underfloor heating. One side of such heaters has channels for the installation of pipelines. It is recommended to use mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and special mats. To strengthen the screed layer, a reinforcing mesh structure is used, to which pipes can be attached. Their attachment is provided by plastic ties, so there is no need for fastening strips and special clips. When the base is ready, it makes no sense to wait for something else - it's time to start installing the floor heating equipment itself.

Mounting

Wiring diagram

Installation of a water heated floor always begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet. They put it in such a way that the distance to the pipelines going to and from all rooms is approximately equal. You can hide an unsightly looking closet by embedding it in a wall (bearing walls are not suitable for this). Please note that the box is placed above the warm floor, otherwise the air outlet will be blocked.

In a modern system (with rare exceptions), circulation is provided by pumping equipment. The pump installed inside the boiler is enough to pump water over an area of ​​150 square meters, even if the building is two-story. If the total building area is larger, it will be necessary to install additional pumps with advanced functions.

In order to be able to service the heating system without draining the water, the boiler inlet and outlet are equipped with shut-off valves. Using them, you can disconnect the heater for repair and maintenance at any convenient time. In the presence of two or more collector cabinets, the main supply line is equipped with a splitter, immediately after which the narrowing adapters are installed.

Connecting pipes to the manifold involves the use of compression fittings or Euro cone devices. If necessary, it is possible to carry out such pipes through the walls, close them on all sides with an insulating layer of polyethylene foam. When all parts are laid and each block is connected to its proper place, the system must be tested. After supplying water to the pipes, they are kept under pressure of 5 or 6 bar for 24 hours (depending on the design working value). If such a check did not lead to the appearance of visually noticeable extensions, you can safely proceed to pouring the concrete layer.

It is allowed to fill the screed only when fluid is supplied at the intended pressure. Drying time to readiness is at least 4 weeks (under ideal conditions). If tiles are to be laid on top, the screed should be 30-50 mm thick and the pipes distributed at a distance of 100-150 mm from each other. Failure to follow these rules, even if the connection of all elements is correct, will lead to uneven heating of different parts of the surface.

Under laminate or linoleum, the screed may be thinner. Then the reinforcing mesh helps to compensate for the decrease in its strength. If the underfloor heating is placed under the laminate, it is not necessary to install thermal insulation, otherwise the energy efficiency of heating will be reduced.

Shrinkage joints are required in the screed if:

• the area of ​​the room exceeds 30 sq. m;
• there is at least one wall longer than 8 m;
• the length is less than 50 or more than 200% of the width of the room;
• the configuration is complex and bizarre.

For the design of screeds, it is allowed to use a cement-sand mixture based on Portland cement (at least M-400, and even better, use M-500). When ready-made concrete is used, its grade must be M-350 and higher. In addition to laying the damper tape, the reinforcing mesh where the seam passes is separated. The thickness of each seam is 1 cm, and its upper share is treated with a sealant. When pipes pass through these places they should only be placed in the outer corrugated pipe.

The launch of water floors into operation should occur at the onset of the first cold weather. Please note that the thermal inertia of the floor covering is large, and only after a few days, when it is overcome, will optimal conditions be created.

It is impossible to connect a warm floor to the battery (as well as to the existing central heating and hot water supply system)! This will not only cause sanctions from the controlling state bodies, but also lead to disruption of the normal operation of utility systems. Be sure to install an autonomous heating boiler, which will become the source of hot water in the system. In addition to manual adjustment, the underfloor heating can be controlled by means of a servo drive and a sensor, or weather automatics.

Since the system must have control and regulatory components, it must be connected to electricity. Underfloor heating in different rooms can be controlled by one thermostat only if the thermal conductivity of the floor covering is the same. Such a scheme requires the same or slightly different lengths of the contours. Thermostats can be connected to the mains directly or through an RCD, which is much safer.

For laying power cables, either a strobe in the wall or an additionally applied protective corrugation is used.

It must be taken into account that at the time of the initial connection vending machines must be set to the "off" position. Look carefully which wire to which phase should be connected. An alternative installation scheme (without a concrete screed) will be disassembled a little further. For now, let's just say that its main options are to place pipes in polystyrene foam grooves, or in grooves made of wood. It's time to see how the pipes of the water-heated floor will be laid.

Laying technology

Modern technology for installing underfloor heating involves laying pipes with their retention by special fixing profiles. The profiles themselves are attached to the base with dowels or screws. The advantage of this solution is that the profile is supplied with clamps in production. You do not need to carefully measure the pitch from one turn to the next and carefully calculate it. A simpler option is fastening to plastic ties pressed against the reinforcing structure.

However, the simplicity of such a scheme requires the elimination of unnecessary force when tightening. Make sure the loop is free. The bay of the pipe is carefully unwound, and not immediately, but directly in the process of work. The manufacturer's instructions always prescribe that the bend be neat b along the smallest possible radius. When using polyethylene structures, it is most often 5 pipe diameters. Do not pinch the product if it has a whitish streak, as this means the appearance of a crease, which subsequently easily breaks through and leads to flooding.

Installation according to the "snail" or "spiral" scheme is recommended for large rooms, and makes heating more even. The classic "snake" works best in small rooms, and if you want to apply heat to the floor covering in a medium-sized room, it is advisable to prefer the "double snake", in which the hot and return pipes are directed in parallel.

Whatever methods are chosen, try to reduce the number of joints between pipes, as well as the number of their turns. Such areas, despite all the perfection of modern technology and careful execution by professionals, dramatically increase the risk of leakage. Ideally, connections should only be made at the boiler inlet and outlet.

For connecting pipes, in addition to the options listed above, there are also such devices:

• polyamide attracting collar (2 pcs per meter);
• steel wire (similar consumption);
• stapler and 2 clamps per meter;
• fixing tracks, or PVC-based strips;
• polystyrene mats;
• aluminum spreading plates.

The rules of operation indicate that, regardless of the method of holding the pipes, their fixation is ensured by nets with a square cell of 15x15 mm, wire diameter is maximum 0.5 cm. By introducing modern automatic devices into the system, it is possible to make the control of the water flow through the pipes not only independent human factor, but also remote.

The final selection of the laying option should take place taking into account the private properties of the premises and the functionality of their individual parts. The "snake" system is designed to supply water initially to a cold area, and only then throughout the rest of the floor, for example.

When the screed under the laminate or linoleum is made thinner than usual, an additional reinforcing mesh is placed directly under it above the heating pipe contour.

How to do it without a concrete screed?

A long wait (about a month or even more if the weather conditions are unfavorable) does not suit everyone. Instead of a concrete screed, a floor covering can be used. When you lay the pipes, you will need to form a substrate for the finishing floor. If there is a laminate at the top, use cardboard and polyethylene foam. Filling under the tile is also not required. Under it, as well as under linoleum, they prepare a special design based on cement-bonded particle boards.

A warm water floor on a wooden floor is mounted using aluminum distribution plates. Boards are pre-prepared in which the necessary grooves are formed. You can make the most even surface in the bathroom with your own hands if you lay chipboard, plywood or gypsum sheets over the pipes. Always carefully check that these materials comply with sanitary regulations.

You can connect a warm water floor without a screed by laying pipes both between the lags and on the surface of the subfloor. The modular variation (wooden blocks with milled grooves) can be replaced by a slatted one, in which the plywood sheet is covered with slats. The intervals between them serve for the installation of pipes. Laying between the joists necessarily requires the use of waterproofing, insulation, reflective plates with holes for the passage of pipes, the pipes themselves, plywood sheet and the final coating.

The imposition on the flooring also implies the placement of insulation in the gaps of the lags on top of the waterproofing, and plywood or draft boards are placed above. Nuance: grind the boards so that channels for laying pipes appear. The reflective layer is made of foil attached to the boards using staples. The pipes in the channels are held by narrow metal plates placed on top, the plates themselves are also attached to the boards.

Instead of boards, you can use polystyrene mats of standard dimensions 1x0.5 m, attached to each other with a “lock” format mount.

Always (regardless of how the underfloor is installed) maintain a spacing of 0.1 m from the wall, as this will largely dampen the effect of thermal expansion of the floor materials. A hydrophobic coating is placed over the flooring or joists. Only after that comes the turn of the formation of the final floor.

In addition to the two described options for the formation of a heated floor without a screed, it is allowed to use a foam or wood substrate, chipboard. Lightweight, relatively thin floors are more expensive and not very durable, but they are recommended for use:

• if necessary, lay a new coating over the old without dismantling;
• if the height of the dwelling is limited;
• if installation speed is critical to you;
• if it is impossible to arrange the delivery of concrete properly;
• if the floor is wooden;

In addition to facilitating the design, the underfloor heating system without screed has one more indisputable advantage - it is easier to repair. Even the best pipes, laid correctly and handled with care, can suddenly burst. If you still want to use a full-fledged screed, but do not wait 28 days for complete drying, you should apply semi-dry mixtures. Special additives in them make it possible to reduce the required amount of water, but the cost of such building materials is higher than in a simpler version.

Keep in mind that the installation of underfloor heating without a screed is only permissible on condition that the floor level differences are 0.2 cm for every 2 sq m of surface. If it is less even, it is still necessary to create a tightening layer, albeit the thinnest one.

Possible mistakes

Even experienced home craftsmen who take up the installation of a warm floor for the first time can make serious mistakes. Often, a dried concrete screed is covered with a network of cracks. The reasons for this defect are varied. You can avoid it if:

• take care of the optimal density of the insulation;
• make high-quality shrinkage seams;
• do not overestimate the recommended screed thickness;
• do not try to dry it too quickly, accelerate the normal hardening process;
• thoroughly compact the solution and strictly observe the proportions during its formation;
• add plasticizers according to the recipe.

The minimum density of the insulation is 35 kg per cubic meter. Covering it with a polyethylene film will help prevent excessive drying of concrete.

It will help to eliminate installation errors by 95% (except for those caused by inattention, haste and manufacturing defects) drafting drafts. Having thought over the implementation of the system, “seeing” it on a piece of paper, you can detect shortcomings in advance and avoid their manifestation. It is better to mark on the sketch areas for furniture placement and other places where, for some reason, the coolant circuit should not pass.

The entire area to be heated is divided into sections of 15 square meters each. At any site, the installation step of the pipeline is 10 cm. A common mistake is that people do not think in time which wall it is better to install a collector or they bring it too close to one heating circuit, moving it away from others. Choose the right heat source that connects to the warm floor.

Comfortable life is provided at a coolant temperature of 40 to 45 degrees, which allows you to warm the floor up to 26-30 degrees. Such heating is provided by condensing boilers, while other heating devices are not able to heat water to less than 60 degrees.

Never put a thermal insulation layer on top of a warm floor and do not use carpets in the room, because these solutions will only worsen the quality of heating. Remember that polystyrene thermal insulation is dense, and it is not able to correct the unevenness of the rough screed, so from the first steps you need to do everything as accurately as possible. As for the thickness of polystyrene, contrary to the recommendations of most manufacturers, it is not required to withstand 10 cm (as a rule, even on the first floors, 8 cm is enough).

On top of the thermal insulation layer, you should not just lay a reflective film (this is a mistake), but it should be laid out evenly and wound up behind the polystyrene along the edges. The bottom material itself should be pressed more tightly against the walls through the damper tape. Do not connect the parts with tape, as they are intended for completely different purposes. This may be harmful to health.

It is better to grease the edges of the blocks with glue. Another blunder, often found in the work of non-professionals and "shabashniki" - a different indentation of pipes from the walls. Real masters make it at least 100 mm and uniform in all rooms.

If it is necessary not only to lay pipes, but also to organize the rotation of the pipeline, it is necessary to bend the metal-plastic structure manually (and not with the help of springs and other auxiliary tools). Please note that the reinforcing mesh should not touch the surface of the pipes, as this is considered a gross mistake. The circuits undergoing thermal contraction and expansion will constantly push the network, and it will soon be deformed and fail.

According to experts, in the coldest parts of the room, it is necessary to compact the “snake” laying step to 0.1 m. First of all, they do this by laying a warm floor near the outer walls. Do not try to heat more than 40 square meters of floor with one circuit. It is also worth organizing separate circuits for neighboring rooms with different temperature conditions. The installation of metal-plastic pipes under the screed is preferable to the installation of a pipeline made of other materials. The temperature of the coolant should increase systematically with access to the level you require 70-72 hours after connection.

The best point for installing the pump is the return pipe, located immediately in front of the boiler. Most often, expansion tanks are mounted in the highest section of the circuit, however, closed membrane systems can be performed in any other way. If you feed the gas boiler from the main pipeline, and not from cylinders, you should obtain the approval of the local authorities. Only specially trained personnel working in licensed organizations should be involved in the work.

Loops from a single pipe with a cross section of 1.6, 1.7 or 2 cm are characterized by a minimal risk of leakage at the joints.

The average temperature of floors in residential premises is 26 degrees according to current standards, and in those places where people visit periodically and a special thermal regime is required, it is 31 degrees. The highest allowable difference in heating of individual parts of the floor and coatings in different rooms is 10 degrees.

In order for the heat transfer to be optimal and not forced to intensify the operation of the system beyond measure, it is necessary to carefully level the floor.

Deviations from the plane by more than 5 mm are not allowed. Their presence leads to overflow of the circuits with air and unstable, inefficient heating operation. The functions of vapor and waterproofing are often performed by a polyethylene film, and its minimum thickness is 0.02 cm, otherwise it will not be possible to guarantee full protection of the insulation from moisture.

The laying of the film should overlap up to 100 mm, and its borders are held by adhesive tape, which covers the intersections of the floor and walls. When all the lower layers are laid and even the pipes themselves are installed, it is necessary to carry out pressure testing in different ways depending on the material. Thus, metal-plastic structures must be subjected to an internal pressure of 6 bar for 24 hours. Before this, the circuits are filled 100% with water, the air is completely released through the drain valves.

There is another option: fill in the coolant, bring its temperature to 80 degrees, keep it that way for 30 minutes, after which, keeping the pressing pressure, put a concrete screed.

If the pipeline is made of cross-linked polyethylene, after reducing the pressure, you will need to add water, and then repeat the test after 30 minutes. Then they wait 90 minutes, restore the previous pressure and leave the heating circuits alone for 24 hours. By the end of this pause, the pressure drop should be a maximum of 1.5 bar.

Once all piping parts and accessories have been installed and checked, take a photograph of their location and make a description with reference to landmarks. Subsequently, if you need to make repairs to the underfloor heating, such information will greatly simplify and speed up the work.

When you need to heat a very small area (the area around a sofa, armchair, table and other furniture, for example), flexible rolls with built-in plastic tubes are preferable. The technology allows cutting the desired part of the roll, bending it at any angle - the main thing is that the channels for the passage of the liquid remain intact.

Compliance with these points will allow you to achieve complete success in installing a warm floor and enjoy its stable operation for several decades.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands, see the following video.

Reading 11 min. Published on 21.10.2019

Recently, a warm water floor has attracted increasing interest. This is quite natural: it is superior in efficiency to electric underfloor heating, but at the same time much more economical. Consider how to make a warm water floor with your own hands.

Recently, a warm water floor has attracted increasing interest. This is quite natural: it is superior in efficiency to electric underfloor heating, but at the same time much more economical. However, the installation of the structure is not cheap. Therefore, many are interested in the question: can you do it yourself? Let's talk in more detail about whether it is possible to assemble a warm water floor with your own hands in an apartment or a private house.

Benefits of underfloor heating

So, what are the advantages of a warm water floor system compared to other similar schemes? Here are the main benefits.

• economy. A warm water floor can be powered from a heating boiler of a private house. This allows you to use the fixture at no additional cost. Electric underfloor heating does not have this advantage - it must be connected to the network and it consumes quite a lot of energy.
• Long service life. The lifespan of the structure is on average 50 years. And if you use high quality pipes, it will be much larger. In the case of an electrical device, such a service life cannot be achieved - the heating elements wear out very quickly and can easily burn out.
• Can be used instead of batteries. The design is able to completely replace the batteries of the heating system. They are dismantled, and the hot one is sent to the floor system.
• Possibility of fine temperature control. The design includes a pump with which you can easily adjust the heating temperature of the floor covering. And if you include a thermostat in the system, this process can be automated - the desired temperature will be maintained without human intervention.
• low price. Unlike electric underfloor heating, water heating does not require heating elements. When assembling, only tubes made of polymer material are used. And they will cost much less than electrical components.
• High security. When using an electrical design, burnout of the heating element in some cases can lead to a short circuit. This, in turn, can cause a fire in the wiring and a fire in a residential area. Water circuits do not carry this risk when used - the most that can happen is water leakage and malfunction of the heating system. This, of course, is not very pleasant, but not as critical as wiring problems that threaten a fire.

Underfloor heating design

The design of a warm floor, powered by water, includes the following elements:

• concrete base;
• aluminum substrates;
• plastic pipes;
• concrete pavement with screeds;
• finishing coating (tile, parquet, laminate);
• pump.

Plastic pipes with good thermal conductivity in the floor are laid on aluminum substrates placed on a concrete base. A layer of concrete is poured over them, and a fine floor covering is located on it.

Sometimes a layer of polyethylene foam or moisture-resistant cardboard is placed between the pipes and the concrete layer as additional protection.

Also, a thermostat can be included in the design, which works on the principle of a relay and allows you to adjust the floor temperature in automatic mode.

Requirements for premises where a warm water floor will be installed

It is customary to carry out a warm water floor at the construction stage, when the dwelling has not yet been put into operation. However, it can also be installed in already used premises. However, it should be remembered that they must meet a number of criteria that are determined by the design features of the underfloor heating, as well as some safety requirements. Here are the criteria:

• Sufficient ceiling height. The warm floor is large enough. Its total thickness can reach 25 centimeters, and sometimes even exceed this figure. Thus, after installation, the distance to the ceiling will decrease. If it was already low before, then the room will be uncomfortable.
• High doorways. Everything is exactly the same here as with ceilings - after installation, doorways will lose some of their height. Therefore, they must be at least 210 centimeters.
• durable floor. The laid pipes, through which hot water will circulate, are poured with concrete. This leads to the fact that the finished structure is quite heavy. Also, its weight increases significantly after water begins to circulate through the pipes. Therefore, the base on which the installation takes place must be strong enough to withstand the additional load.
• There should be no significant heat loss in the room. Their total volume should not exceed 100 watts per 1 square meter. Otherwise, all the effectiveness of the warm floor will come to naught - he simply will not be able to cope with his work and heat the cold room.
• The base for laying pipes must be level., not have depressions, protrusions, other irregularities. Their presence will lead to deformation of the tubes. And such a deformation, in turn, will significantly disrupt the circulation of water. This can negatively affect not only the operation of the warm floor itself, but also adversely affect the functioning of the entire heating system as a whole, causing stagnation in it.

Calculation of the cost of a warm water floor

The cost of a warm water floor depends on four main factors:

• materials used in the work;
• in addition, work is carried out with the involvement of a contractor or independently;
• the area of ​​​​the room where the structure is mounted;
• installation method and system features.

Assuming that the installation will use materials of an average price category, the assembly will be done by ourselves, and the design will include a thermostat for automatic temperature control, then the cost of installation, taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, will look like this.

Please note that the table shows approximate average prices. In different regions of the Russian Federation, they may differ (sometimes quite significantly). In addition, when working with large premises, it is possible to purchase building materials at wholesale prices or close to them, which significantly reduces the total cost of work. Therefore, the calculation in each case will be individual.

Methods for mounting water circuits

There are two most common ways to install the water circuits of the underfloor heating system:

• spiral;
• coil.

The most popular is the laying of pipes in a spiral. This is due to the fact that this installation method contributes to a more uniform distribution of warm water throughout the system and prevents heat loss. Thus, it has the best energy efficiency.

The second type of styling is "snake". Compared to the spiral, it works much worse. Due to the fact that hot water enters from one end and exits from the other, while overcoming a significant distance inside the tubes, a lot of heat is lost. However, the "snake" is widely used. The fact is that when laying in a spiral it is very difficult to bypass obstacles. For example, laying pipes spirally in a room with a complex layout is very difficult. But with the "snake" there are no special problems.

There is a third, not so common type of styling - a double "snake". When using it, the pipe is folded in two, and only then a coil is formed from it. Installation of such a system is somewhat simpler, and heat losses are somewhat lower compared to a traditional coil. However, its implementation requires a tube of greater length, so it requires a slightly higher cost.

The choice of material for underfloor heating

How to choose a good pipe for underfloor heating

Here are a few rules that will help you choose really good pipes for your underfloor heating system.

• Under no circumstances should metal be used. This is due to two factors. Firstly, the use of metal pipes is prohibited by building codes. Secondly, they significantly increase the weight of the structure and may cause deformation of the concrete floor base.
• Heat-resistant pipes must be used. Pipes must withstand a thermal load close to 100 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, when the temperature jumps in the heating system, they may become deformed or leak.
• The inner surface of the pipes must be perfectly smooth. This will make the circulation of fluid through them unhindered and as efficient as possible.
• It is best to choose pipes reinforced with metal fibers. They are more expensive, but they are able to withstand the pressure of the concrete that is above them. Polyethylene pipes without reinforcement are also suitable.
• The diameter of the tube should be between 16 and 20 millimeters. If it is less than this range, the pressure in the system will be too high, if more - too low.

Pipe for heating

The choice of insulation for underfloor heating

For underfloor heating, the following types of heaters are used.

• Thermal insulation boards made of foam or natural cork. The main advantage of this type of insulation is that it passes water evaporation well, preventing the formation of excessive moisture between the layers of the structure.
• Mineral wool. It retains heat well and passes evaporation, is cheap, but easily deformed, while losing its properties.
• profile systems. The main advantage of this type of insulation is ease of installation. The disadvantage is the poor conductivity of moisture.

thermal insulation

The choice of the collector-mixing unit

• Give preference to steel devices. Underfloor heating collectors are made of brass or stainless steel. Brass appliances are susceptible to corrosion. But steel structures are devoid of this drawback. There are also polymer collectors in stores. They are cheaper than the other two options, but they are not very reliable.
• Choose a powerful collector. The more powerful the collector, the better the liquid circulates in the system, which means the warmer the floor. However, it should be remembered that for small rooms too powerful collectors are redundant - they can be warmed up by the efforts of weaker devices.

Collector group for underfloor heating

Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor

Let us consider in more detail the procedure for self-installation of a water-heated floor. Below is a step-by-step instruction for the correct laying of the underfloor heating system.

Do-it-yourself tools for installing a warm water floor

In order to put a warm floor, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• pliers;
• wire cutters;
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• drill driver;
• pipe cutter;
• plumbing key;
• apparatus for welding polymer pipes (if non-reinforced polypropylene pipes are used);
• set of wrenches;
• container for mixing cement.

drill driver

Installation of insulation and waterproofing

When the preparation of the concrete base is completed, heat-insulating material is evenly laid on it. When it is completely laid, waterproofing is placed on top of it.

It is worth noting that some craftsmen put waterproofing under the bottom of the thermal insulation.

Reinforcing mesh installation

Before laying pipes, a reinforcing mesh is placed on the insulation. It firmly fixes the system and prevents the displacement of its elements during concrete pouring. There are no secrets of its installation - the mesh is simply evenly distributed over the treated surface.

When the reinforcement is laid, pipes are laid on it, and then attached to it. It should be remembered that in no case should the pipes be pulled too strongly to the grid - when heated, they expand and strong contraction can create an obstacle to the movement of water through the system.

Pipes are connected to the grid using small pieces of steel wire purchased at a hardware store for mounting steel clamps or in any other convenient way.

reinforcing mesh for floor screed

Installation of a pipe of a warm water floor

After laying hydro- and thermal insulation, pipes for underfloor heating are laid. In this case, the distance from the pipe to the wall should not be less than 20 centimeters. When laying the pipes, they are fixed with steel clamps or wire. If the pipe does not bend well, it can be slightly heated to give it elasticity. In some cases, polypropylene pipes cannot be bent at all, so they are cut and then welded using plumbing corners. With reinforced pipes, this problem does not arise - they are easy to bend by hand without the use of additional tools.

When the pipes are completely laid, they are connected to the collector. To do this, you need a plumbing or regular wrench. The connection must be reliable and completely eliminate fluid leakage.

Mat for underfloor heating

System testing

When all the layers of the system are laid and it is connected to the collector, it is tested. This is important to do before the concrete is poured, as it will not be possible to fix the malfunctions later. When testing, pay attention to the following points:

• how well the water circulates through the pipes;
• are there any leaks;
• whether the heat is well conducted.

Pouring concrete screed

If the testing was successful and no shortcomings were identified during its course, the mounted structure is evenly poured with concrete mortar.

To obtain the most even floor, this is done using:

• beacon profiles;
• additional reinforcing mesh.

When using additional mesh, it is important that it is very light. Otherwise, it can put a lot of pressure on the pipes and disrupt the circulation of water inside them.

The total thickness of the concrete pour should be 5-7 centimeters.

Conclusion

A warm water floor is an effective means of heating a dwelling. It has a number of advantages over its electrical counterpart: inexpensive and easy assembly, reliability, efficiency. You can mount the structure with your own hands. However, in order to avoid mistakes during installation, you need to follow simple rules and remember a few important nuances.

Comfort and coziness in the house during the cold season depends on the temperature regime of the room. Poorly heated apartments, cold floors pose a threat of colds to family members. One of the means to maintain a stable temperature in a living space is underfloor heating. Not always and not everyone has enough money to call the masters to install them. It is important to learn how to make a warm water floor with your own hands. Today we will tell you about it.

What is a warm water floor

Water heated floor - a whole system of modern heating, replacing radiators.

Water floor heating schemes

The simplest installation layout is snake.

Pipes run from the collector in the form of loops, covering the entire area of ​​the room. Each loop goes from one wall to another, replacing the previous one. This method allows you to completely warm up only part of the room. Hot water comes only from one side. Passing through the entire heating system, it loses heat. The cooled pipeline does not warm up enough the part of the room remote from the coolant.

The scheme of a water heated floor with a snake in a private house is a laborious process. Temperature fluctuations in double serpentine are reduced, but the installation remains laborious.

The most famous way of laying pipes is considered to be a spiral, in a different way a snail. It evenly heats all rooms in the house.

Spiral covers the entire perimeter of the room, starting from the edges gradually approaches the center, and then from the center in the opposite direction. A pitch of 10 mm avoids thermal pits. Installation in this way is quite easy, it can be performed by one person without an assistant.

Snail convenient in that the bending of the pipes in it is insignificant. The spiral can be made in any part of the room, rounding difficult places. It can insulate the cold spaces of the room - at the outer walls, at the entrance to the veranda. The advantage of this scheme will be the ability to establish any step between the pipes.

There is a combined method of laying pipes - combination of snake and spiral. The snake can be installed, for example, at the entrance, where special heat is not required, and the snail can be installed in the central part of the room to create thermal comfort

Stages of installation of warm water floors

Stage 1 – installation of the technological unit in the manifold cabinet.

2nd stage - floor preparation.

The floor surface must be level and free from unevenness. Exceeding the level is allowed only by 5 mm. If the surface is uneven, then you need to make an additional concrete screed. We remove debris from the base with a powerful vacuum cleaner, then seal cracks and cracks with cement.

Stage 3 - laying damper tape.

It is necessary in order to separate the heating plate from the walls, to prevent heat loss and to compensate for temperature deformations. Tape thickness 5-8 mm, height 15 mm. The tape must be laid around the perimeter so that after the screed and finish coating it protrudes above them. At the end of the construction work, the edge of the tape protruding above the final laying surface is cut off.

Stage 4 - we put a layer of thermal insulation, which will prevent heat loss by the contours.

Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam is used as a material for waterproofing. It also serves as the basis for laying pipes. Styrofoam mats are overlapped on each other, inserting into the grooves. If the coating is exposed to moisture from below, then a vapor barrier is laid under these plates. Thermal insulation can also be ordinary polyethylene film. You can use multifoil. Then a reinforcing mesh should be applied on top of the heat-insulating material, to which the contours are attached using plastic clamps, steel wire, a stapler and a retainer. An excellent fastening of pipes to a reinforcing mesh is a PVC strip.

Stage 5 - Do-it-yourself water-heated floor for a private house also involves laying pipes.

Pipes are laid with a snake or a snail. The segments between them (step) are laid out in accordance with the project documentation. The efficiency of the heating will depend on the correct installation. Contours should be no more than 60-90m. If the room is large, then a few more contours should be laid. It is important that they are of the same length, from a single piece, otherwise the sealing will be broken.

We cut the ends of the pipes and attach them to the collectors. We tighten the Eurocone fitting with a wrench.

stage 6 - check the heating system for leaks.

To do this, fill the system with pressurized water. The pressure should be several times higher than usual, but not less than 0.6 MPa. This pressure should be maintained for 30 minutes. The next hydraulic test is already underway for 2 hours, and the pressure rises to 1 MPa.

Stage 7 - if the pressure test was successful, then you need to pour a concrete screed. It freezes for about 28 days.

Screed for warm water floor

The screed is a cement-sand mortar with the addition of a plasticizer.

The modifier is liquid and dry.

Dry plasticizer is diluted with water 1:2. The modifier helps to remove excess liquid, makes the solution plastic and homogeneous.

The screed in a warm water field protects the pipes from external influences, prevents depressurization of the pipes. It has good heat dissipation: receiving heat from the pipes, transfers it to the air in the room.

Types of coverage

Water heated floor is used mainly for tiles and porcelain tiles.

These floor coverings heat up quickly and do not emit harmful substances. They are durable, not subject to deformation, will last a long time. A wide design solution will make the tile a beautiful floor covering according to your taste.

You can use other materials: laminate, PVC tiles, linoleum, carpet.

You just need to take into account the features of these materials and listen to the advice of the masters on using it as floor coverings for the heating system.

Wood shrinks at elevated temperatures. Therefore, it is not necessary to warm up the circuits above 27 degrees.

Heat and sound insulating linoleum will not let heat through. Thermal conductivity is greater than the thinner linoleum. In addition, it must be taken into account that small particles can get into it, which will be felt by bare feet. Therefore, it is advisable to lay it by professionals. If you yourself took up the coating of linoleum, then do it carefully so that the finishing materials lie flat.

Chipboard, plywood or GVL are laid on top of the pipes.

Laminate used as a floor covering in a water-heated field has a high thermal conductivity. The thinner its layer, the faster and more it gives off heat. Such a floor heats up faster, creating comfortable conditions for those living in the house.

Parquet is less reliable because it is exposed to high temperatures and pressure drops. This is a capricious material, so it needs careful care and sufficient moisture.

The cost of a water heated floor

The price of a warm water floor is on average 1500-3000 per sq. m. This price is made up of the cost of all materials: pipes, fasteners, insulating material, boiler, pump, manifold cabinet, floor installation work.

Water electric warm are a system consisting of pipes 20 mm in diameter. Inside them is a heating cable. The antifreeze coolant is static and does not move, so a pump, boiler, and collector are not needed.

Installed in a screed. Principle of operation: when the power is turned on, the coolant heats up. When the antifreeze is heated, the pressure increases, contributing to the rapid and uniform distribution of heat.

So, we told you about the do-it-yourself warm water floor system, touched a little on electric floors. We hope that after reading the article, you have learned a lot of important and useful things about this system and will be able to buy a water heated floor and install it yourself.

Experts have confirmed that a person feels most comfortable when the air temperature below reaches 22-22 °C, and at head level 18-20 °C. This distribution is best provided by underfloor heating. Properly designed design allows you to save up to 20% of energy resources. Uniform heating of the perimeter of the entire ceiling eliminates the formation of concentrated flows, prevents drafts. Since the risers are removed from the room, the architect and designer have opportunities for new planning solutions. It is also important that the cleaning of the premises is greatly facilitated. However, the water heated floor has its drawbacks. Let's talk about everything in order.

All about installing and operating a water floor

Features of a water heated floor

There are several ways of heating from the floor side. It is difficult to say whether the hydraulic circuit has advantages over infrared thin emitters hidden under the laminate if used in a city apartment. The obvious disadvantages in such a comparison include low efficiency. The pipes hidden under the screed serve only as an aid. In regions with a mild climate, they are quite enough to create comfortable conditions, but in a cold winter, it is necessary to warm the air.

Another feature is the need for heating the liquid that flows in the channels above the ceiling. Its installation is possible not only in private houses, but for apartments there is an electrical analogue of the pipeline, which takes up less space and does not require the installation of bulky equipment. One of the factors is the possibility of circuit leakage and flooding of neighbors. Waterproofing the floor will help reduce the risk.

In apartment buildings, water heated floors are strictly forbidden to be powered from the central heating system. In this case, a heat exchanger is included in the circuit, which transmits the temperature upon contact with communications in the apartment. These include not only the radiator and the riser, but also the hot water supply. It should be noted that this circuit is not very efficient when compared to an infrared film or an electrical circuit hidden under a laminate.

In cottages, this method of heating is usually the main one and is laid down at the design stage. It also determines other parameters, such as the height of the ceilings, the thickness of the ceilings or the type of boiler used.

Work principles

Heating occurs due to the coolant - water or other liquid. It moves in a pipeline that covers the entire overlap area or part of it. Condensing gas equipment is most often used for the necessary heating. A distribution manifold is connected to it, from which there is an extensive network over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, or in that part of it where necessary. The movement is closed and is usually provided by a circulation pump. Having gone all the way, the cooled carrier returns to the boiler, and the process starts all over again. It is more convenient to adjust using automatic thermostats that receive commands from sensors. For emergency draining, an additional device is provided, for example, a small compressor or a cylinder for blowing with compressed air.

An important difference from the radiator circuit is that due to the increase in the radiating surface, the need for its strong heating disappears. In order for the radiator to transfer its energy to the far corner of the room or kitchen, it must be hot. Here, this is not required, since the radiation energy is transmitted by each square meter.

Benefits of underfloor heating

• uncomfortable distribution of air temperature throughout the volume of the room;
• the risk of accidentally getting burned on the battery;
• too strong convection air currents that occur near the battery;
• cleaning under the windowsill becomes much easier.

The absence of strong drops is also good in that the thermal deformations of the finish are reduced. There is less condensation that causes corrosion and mold formation due to increased dampness. Properly designed and constructed water heating system "warm floor" can last 40-50 years. This method is optimal both in terms of its technical parameters and in terms of its impact on human health.

Design

In order to choose the right components and technical parameters, you will need a thermal calculation.

What does thermal engineering include:

• the required amount of transmitted energy;
• the level of heat loss in the building (the presence of thermal insulation, glazing of balconies, etc.);
• fluid temperature at inlet and outlet;
• type and material of products;
• the thickness of the concrete screed;
• type of coating material.

Based on these data, the specialist will calculate the throughput and the required laying step. The wizard will also build a wiring diagram. This can be a daunting task given the wiring requirements.

Wiring Requirements:

• it is not recommended to arrange contours of too long length. It is desirable that it does not exceed 100 m, as this is the standard length for a roll of polymer pipes with a diameter of 16 or 20 mm;
• all prefabricated elements should have approximately the same length (plus or minus 10%);
• they should pass so that all parts of the floor are heated evenly;
• the smallest possible number of fittings and connections should be used.

The gasket pitch may vary depending on the heat load. In the zone of active heat loss (external walls, windows), it is made smaller (10-15 cm), and in the center of the room - more (20-30 cm).

Laying scheme

When designing the layout scheme, pay attention to turns in which the bending radius should not be less than the minimum allowable. This parameter depends on the material from which the prefabricated element is made. There are two schemes: "snake" and "spiral".

"Snake" is easier. It is more often resorted to by non-professional builders-designers. This scheme works effectively only in small rooms with an area of ​​​​up to 10 m 2 . With an increase in the size of the room, the difference in heating in its different parts becomes more noticeable. In this case, the "spiral" is suitable.

An approximate calculation of a water-heated floor can be done with your own hands using online calculators that are available on the websites of large construction companies. It will help you determine the range and cost of the main components. The layout of the contours should be calculated by a specialist.

The surface temperature must not exceed certain values ​​(ISO7730 standard):

• in living rooms +26°С;
• in the bathroom +30 °С;
• by the pool and in basements +32 °С.

So that the bare foot does not feel the difference around the heating circuit, its step should not be more than 0.35 m.

Usually the liquid is heated up to +35°С. The maximum value is +55 °С. To do this, it is necessary to mix the hot water supplied from the boiler with the water leaving the conductor, which has already cooled slightly. This operation is controlled automatically by thermostatic valves. It is their work that determines success or failure in creating the desired indoor climate.

It is very useful to think in advance also about. For carpeting, it will be necessary to increase the heating by 4-5 ° C, which means that the energy consumption will increase by at least 15-25%. Each extra 10 mm of screed thickness increases the required energy consumption by 5-8%.

Make and save a copy of the diagram with all dimensions or at least the pitch and position of the initial coil. This will prevent damage to the channels in the future. Take the data on the coolant flow from the designer, this will then be required when setting up the system.

Install at least at 15°C. Do not work outdoors in cold weather.

System elements

Pipes

Products must be lightweight, resistant to corrosion and high temperature. The material used is plastic and metal:

• Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) - tolerates contact with hot water well and can work at 80 °C. Like all plastic products, it does not corrode. The minimum bending radius is approximately ten diameters. Improved properties have PEX pipes with protection against oxygen penetration. Five-layer walls provide the best protection. They are more reliable than three-layer ones without additional external protection, which must be handled with particular care.
• Corrugated stainless steel - its thermal conductivity is about 200 times better than that of polyethylene. It is more flexible. So, for example, for the Neptun IWS model with an outer diameter of 18 mm, the permissible bending radius is 30 mm. The coefficient of linear expansion when heated to 50 ° C is 20 times less than that of PEX. Such pipes for a water-heated floor are more expensive, while they are more functional and easy to install.
• Heat-resistant polyethylene PERT - similar in characteristics to PEX, but has a lower thermal stability. The difference becomes noticeable only when heated to 70 ° C, so this material is suitable for most systems. The walls must necessarily have an oxygen-protective layer.
• Copper - the thermal conductivity of this metal is several times higher than that of steel. It has excellent performance in terms of flexibility and durability. But due to the high cost, they are used quite rarely.
• Metal-plastic - is a three-layer structure with an inner layer of aluminum foil. External and internal surface can be made of PEX or PERT polyethylene. Completely impermeable to oxygen, resistant to temperature and chemical attack. The minimum bending radius is approximately five diameters. Products with a metal core made without seams are distinguished by the greatest flexibility. They can be bent repeatedly in a small radius area equal to three values ​​of the outer diameter.

Products have a service life of 50 years on average. If the question arose - what water floor heating to install, it is better to pay attention to the manufacturer. To avoid problems during installation, you should buy components from the same company.

Circulation pump

It is advisable to get a powerful pump. Calculate the required performance and take a model with a performance margin of at least 25-30%.

Heating circuits

By type of layout, they are divided into meander or zigzag and spiral. According to the condition of economy, a pressure loss of up to 0.2 atm is allowed in them, therefore the total length does not exceed 100 m, and only 15-20 m 2 of the floor area is heated with one conductor. For large rooms, several elements are used. The front side they are connected to the distributor with control valves, the rear - to the manifold. Typically, the distributor and manifold are a comb-shaped assembly equipped with air vents.

So that when the temperature in the room changes, it does not change in others, the so-called hydraulic equalization is carried out. To do this, it is recommended to install a pressure or water flow regulator in each element. They are configured once, at system startup. This work must be carried out by a qualified person.

Mounting

Laying a water heated floor

The base must be located strictly horizontally. Height differences from 1 cm can lead to the formation of air pockets that reduce the efficiency of the system. If necessary, a concrete screed is poured. Layers of waterproofing, sound insulation are laid on the base, then. It can be a metallized lavsan film, cork or mineral wool mats, polypropylene or other polymer boards. The most effective, for example, are cork mats supplemented with a layer of ray-reflecting material, but such thermal insulation will also be the most expensive. Polyethylene film or bituminous mastic can also be used as waterproofing. The closer the room is to the ground, the more insulators are required. So that the floor expanding when heated does not put pressure on the walls, a gap is provided between them. To do this, before installation, the joints of the walls with the ceiling are covered with a special tape up to 5 mm thick with a waterproof film. The seams are sealed with mastic, the overlaps of the polyethylene film are carefully glued with adhesive tape.

Then pipe fasteners are placed on the floor. It can be a special reinforcing mesh - products are attached to it with clamps. Installation is also carried out on polystyrene plates with recesses in which the product is easily fixed. There are other ways.

Polystyrene mats are easier to work with and can be recommended to inexperienced builders. When using them, additional thermal insulation is not necessary.

Screed device in a warm water floor

Concrete seamless coating is applied on top of the contour. It perceives the load and distributes it to the softer underlying layer of thermal insulation. Therefore, it should be sufficiently rigid, but as thin as possible, so as not to absorb excessive energy. Usually the minimum thickness is 40-50 mm. This is enough for the material to withstand loads up to 2 kN / m 2 (200 kgf / m 2). Some firms introduce special plasticizers into the solution to increase the conductivity of the screed and level it during thermal expansion.

Up to 40 m 2 of surface is poured at a time. If the area exceeds these dimensions, the space is divided into sections separated by expansion joints 3-6 mm wide. The seam is filled with an elastic material, such as polyurethane. If the contour crosses the line of this seam, then it is laid in this place in a protective corrugated tube up to 0.5 m long. Before and during the pouring process, the system is kept at operating pressure and temperature. The concrete screed dries for at least four weeks.

The coolant is introduced only after all the elements are assembled and the connections are checked. To make sure that all components work properly, you need to test at high pressure and maximum heat. In this mode, they should work for six hours. Only after this, the installation of a water-heated floor can be considered completed and proceed to the screed device.

Warm floors are great for arranging autonomous heat supply. Increasingly, owners of private houses prefer just such a heating system. At the same time, it is less convenient for apartments, so it is used less frequently. If you wish and have the skills to handle tools, you can always mount a warm water floor with your own hands.

The owner of the house gets the opportunity to rationally spend resources. With radiator heating, warm air flows upward, not having time to warm up the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Rising from the warm floor, the air flow heats objects and people, and only after that it moves to the ceiling.

A house with underfloor heating warms up much faster and more evenly than with a radiator, because. when the heating is turned on, the entire floor area turns into one large heat source. The room is heated from below, which ensures maximum comfort for the people in it.

The device of a water heated floor implies that the system is powered by a conventional heating boiler. However, the fuel consumption for underfloor heating is relatively low, since the coolant does not need to be heated to such a high temperature as in radiators.

Thanks to this feature of underfloor heating, it is more profitable, and the boiler itself operates in a gentle mode, which increases its service life.

It is possible to use a warm floor as an additional heating system. In this case, the heated coolant moves along two circuits: first to the radiators, and then, cooling down, through the pipes of the floor circuit.

In this way, the home owner achieves highly efficient heating without spending extra money on bills. This is ideal for homes in regions with a harsh climate.

A big minus of the system is the high cost of components and installation. On average, for materials for arranging 1 sq.m. underfloor heating must be spent from 1500 rubles. If a team is working, then another 1000-1500 rubles per 1 sq.m. will have to be added to these expenses. based on the wages of workers.

The high cost is due to objective reasons. For laying pipes, you have to raise the floor level by at least 100 mm. In order for the system to work normally, control valves, a distribution manifold cabinet, special valves for venting air from the heating system, etc. are installed.

This is a laborious process, so the work of the masters is expensive.

Do-it-yourself installation of a warm water floor allows you to significantly reduce the cost of the system. You can save up to 30-50% of the total cost

Features of the water heating device

Underfloor heating is a system of pipes laid according to a scheme convenient for the owner of the house. A heated coolant moves through them from the boiler. Its temperature is controlled by thermostats. The cooled coolant returns to the boiler, and the process resumes.

Different coolant flows are combined with the help of collectors - heating control units. Components of the system largely depend on the installation scheme of underfloor heating pipes and the features of connecting circuits in the collector.

As a rule, you have to buy circulation pumps, various types of valves, equipment for automating the operation of the heating system. If the pipes are laid under concrete, then additional building materials, reinforcing mesh will be required.

Especially carefully you need to choose pipes, because. the service life of the system depends on their quality and reliability. Usually metal-plastic and PVC pipes are used. Both types of products are durable and practical, but in most cases, homeowners prefer the first option.

Metal-plastic pipes are considered more reliable. They bend well and take any shape. An important advantage is the reasonable price. Since for heating 1 sq.m. floors need at least 6-7 meters of pipes, their cost significantly affects the total amount of expenses.

A detailed device of the underfloor heating system is described in the video below:

Requirements for installing underfloor heating

• Before starting the laying of pipes, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base. The surface must be perfectly flat, which will ensure uniform heating of the floor and, accordingly, the premises in the future.
• In addition to the materials necessary for the installation of the system itself, it is necessary to purchase thermal and waterproofing. It is laid on the subfloor before laying pipes.
• Laying loops are made with a single pipe with a section of 16, 17, 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent leaks at the joints.
• If a warm floor is mounted under a screed, then the system should be postponed until the material has completely solidified - 4 weeks. After that, the system is started, and the temperature of the coolant is gradually increased. It will take 2-3 days to start the system at full capacity.
• The design temperature of the outer surface of the floor is regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. It should average 26 degrees for rooms where people are constantly staying, and 31 degrees - where people are not constantly present and there is a need for a special temperature regime.
• The maximum coolant temperature is 55 degrees. The system must be designed and installed in such a way that there are no significant temperature differences in individual areas of the floor. The allowable difference is 5-10 degrees.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the calculated thermal load. The larger it is, the thicker the heat-insulating layer should be.

Arrangement methods - concrete and flooring

There are two main ways of mounting the system: concrete, flooring. The first type of pipe laying is also called wet, jellied. It is used if a concrete screed is planned over the floor heating system.

The concrete installation method is reliable and efficient, because. the finished system is characterized by the best heat transfer, which completely covers the heat loss. Heating operation in a wide temperature range is possible.

The concrete system is able to withstand loads of 500 kg per 1 square meter, which allows it to be installed in any type of premises, including residential and industrial. Its service life can exceed 50 years.

The flooring method is used if the pipes are mounted under a wooden or polystyrene coating. Installation is carried out without "wet" processes, so that work can be completed faster, because you do not have to wait for the building mixtures to dry.

First, hydro-, thermal insulation is laid, the perimeter of the rooms is trimmed with adhesive damper tape. When calculating the thermal insulation layer, all heat losses must be taken into account. Insulation is mounted on the entire surface of the floor

The pipes are laid on top of the thermal insulation, fixed with brackets, dowel hooks, clamps or fastening strips. The ideal option is to use ready-made heat-insulating plates, in which fasteners are provided in advance.

A reinforcing layer is laid on top, after it - a carrier one. As a topcoat, it is best to choose ceramic tiles, natural or artificial stone, laminated parquet.

As a result, a heating "pie" is obtained, the thickness of which can reach 10-15 cm, depending on the pipe section, the thickness of the layers of thermal and waterproofing, and the finishing coating.

Below is a brief and clear description of the entire procedure for installing the system:

System calculation and design

How can you make a water heated floor with your own hands? You should start with the calculation and design of the system. This is the most important stage of work, on which the features of heating installation, heating efficiency and durability of the entire structure depend.

When designing, the following factors are taken into account:

• the volume to be heated (area, height, shape of the room);
• features of the temperature regime;
• materials to be used in the work.

When developing a scheme, all the nuances are taken into account, including the location of collectors, expansion joints. It is important that the deformation space and pipeline elements do not intersect.

It is also desirable to know in advance where and how the furniture and / or plumbing fixtures will be located. If furniture is planned above the pipes, then it should be made of materials that tolerate high temperatures well. It is better not to use a tree, because. it dries up.

For each room of the house you need a separate circuit. If non-residential premises are heated (for example, a loggia or a veranda), then the circuit should not be combined with adjacent living rooms. Otherwise, the heat will go away to heat the non-residential area, and the living rooms will be cold.

In order not to make a mistake when designing, some nuances should be taken into account. An expert says this:

Underfloor heating installation technology

Consider in detail the installation of a warm water floor under the screed. This is the most time-consuming work, but the finished system is much more efficient than the one laid by "dry" methods - using modules or rails.

Stage #1: preparatory work

Before starting the installation of the heating system, the room must be fully prepared: windows, doors are installed, all rough finishing work is completed, communications are connected, niches for collectors are prepared in places where they will be freely accessible.

Floor markings need to be done. The base must be perfectly flat, differences over 0.5 cm are unacceptable, otherwise the heating will be disrupted, the hydraulic resistance will increase, the heating system will air.

If necessary, the floor is additionally leveled with a screed. If it is adjacent to the ground, carefully waterproof

Stage #2: laying vapor or waterproofing

Polyethylene film is used as vapor and waterproofing. Its thickness must be at least 0.2 mm. This layer is necessary to protect the insulation materials from moisture, which significantly reduces their properties.

Waterproofing is required, because. moisture can come from both the ground and the cold floor. The film is laid with an overlap of up to 10 cm and the joints are fixed with adhesive tape. She also covers the joints of the floor and walls.

To prevent a thermal bridge from forming between the screed and the walls, a damper tape is used. It is laid along the walls, and it should rise at least 20 cm above the marking of the warm floor level. A special moisture-proof "apron" of the tape prevents water from entering the joints between the heat-insulating plate and the tape itself.

Many thermal insulation materials lose their properties when exposed to moisture. For example, when damp, foam plastic protects much worse from noise and cold.

Stage #3: installation of thermal insulation boards

The efficiency of the entire underfloor heating system largely depends on the choice and installation of thermal insulation boards. Proper thermal insulation directs heat flows from the heating elements up into the room. The main characteristics of the system depend on it - power, degree of resource saving, bearing capacity.

As a heat insulator, you can use foil polystyrene 3 cm thick. With all the advantages of this insulation, it has significant drawbacks, so it’s better to give preference to more modern and technologically advanced materials and choose special heat-insulating boards.

Thermal insulation boards are ready-made systems for laying underfloor heating pipes. They are extremely durable and have special projections that make it easy to fix and bend the pipes, giving the contour the desired shape.

The plates are securely fastened with special locks, are distinguished by high rates of heat and sound insulation, and smooth out minor floor irregularities. They are mounted in the direction from the far left corner from left to right. If the layout of the room provides for ledges or niches, the plates are cut or built up.

Plates are laid over the entire surface of the floor of the room, without gaps. Such installation ensures uniform heating of the room, as well as the mechanical strength of the system.

Stage # 4: laying the heating circuit

Pipes are laid in increments of 10-30 cm, depending on the amount of heat loss. Most often, 30 cm is enough. The distance from the wall is 15 cm. The pipes are laid between the protrusions of the heat-insulating plates, pressing them tightly to the floor. At the joints they are protected by special metal sleeves.

Each circuit requires a separate pipe section of the appropriate length: up to 80 m if the pipe diameter is 16 mm, and up to 120 m for pipes with a diameter of 20 mm. If the pipe length is too long, then the hydraulic resistance will increase. It should be borne in mind that it should be approximately the same in all circuits that are connected to one collector.

The two most popular pipe laying technologies are:

• bifilar ("snail") - the contour has a spiral shape;
• meander ("snake") - the contour of the warm floor looks like a zigzag.

Options are possible. So, a double "snake" is appropriate in rooms where you need to achieve the highest heat flux density.

You can combine different ways of laying pipes. For example, for large rooms, use a "snake", and for less spacious rooms - a "snail".

Laying the "snake" has some disadvantages, but there are cases when this method of pipe installation is indispensable, for example, if the floor has a linear slope. Another plus is the lower load on the heating pump than when laying pipes with a “snail”

Step #5: pipe crimping and screed

After laying the heating circuit and connecting to the distribution manifold, it is necessary to carry out pressure testing of the pipes. To do this, the heating circuit is filled with coolant and air is removed by releasing it through drain valves. The pressure for pressure testing of metal-plastic pipes should be 6 bar, time - 1 day.

You can warm up the system to 80 degrees for half an hour, and after cooling, pour the pipes under pressure with a concrete screed

Crimping of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene is more difficult. After reducing the pressure, the system is pumped up, after half an hour the procedure is repeated. Then, after another hour and a half, the pressure is restored for the last time and the heating system is left for a day. During this time, the pressure should decrease by no more than 1.5 bar.

For screed, mixtures with the addition of plasticizers are used, which improve the elasticity of the finished layer. After complete drying and hardening (28 days), you can plan to start the operation.

The procedure for installing a warm water floor with your own hands is well described below:

Conclusion

When the main work on the installation of a warm water floor is completed, it is put into operation. This is necessary to remove air from the heating circuit. Warming up starts from 25 degrees, gradually bringing the temperature to working.

The system is started with a pressure above the working pressure of about 15%, and all branches, except for the one being checked, are blocked. The pumps must run at minimum power. The procedure is repeated for each branch separately.

Why choose water systems? They are practical, versatile, economical. They are cheaper to run than electric ones. The only negative is the laborious installation. However, the costs of effort and money pay off due to the ease of use, the durability of the system, and savings on heating.