Dremel - what it is, how and which one to choose, working with a dremel. Homemade Dremel DIY Toothbrush Drill

If you've ever been to a tool store, you may have seen a Dremel. This is a multi-purpose rotary tool with a large number of attachments and attachments. It can be used to process wood, metal, glass, electronic components, plastics and many other materials. This tool is perfect for needlework and small repairs, it is convenient for them to work in confined spaces and hard-to-reach places. Master the Dremel and try it out, and you will appreciate this versatile tool.

Steps

Part 1

Basics

    Choose a Dremel. Dremel was one of the first manufacturers to make rotary tools and is still known mainly for these tools. The company also manufactures many other tools, including electric screwdrivers and jigsaws. Check out their products and choose the right tool for you. Prices vary widely, so it's important to make the right choice. Pay attention to the following characteristics:

    • mains powered or wireless option;
    • light and portable, or more durable and massive tool;
    • operating time without recharging;
    • fixed or variable speed: the former is cheaper and easier to use, while the latter is better for finer work.
  1. Read the instruction manual. The Dremel comes with a variety of drills and other attachments and tools, as well as an instruction manual. Be sure to read the instructions before using the tool and familiarize yourself with the controls. Learn how to turn the tool on and off, change speed and change attachments.

    • Your instrument may differ from earlier models, so carefully read the instructions that came with it.
  2. Use appropriate protective equipment. Always wear work gloves or rubber gloves before working with your Dremel to protect your hands from sawdust, chips and sharp edges. Also wear safety goggles, especially when cutting, grinding or polishing.

    • Keep your workplace clean. Make sure there are no children or other people around while using the tool.
  3. Practice installing and securing attachments. To fit the bit, loosen the tool's collet and insert the bit's shank into the hole. Tighten the cartridge nut so that the nozzle sits firmly in the hole and does not scroll. To remove the nozzle, press the release button and unscrew the collet nut - this will loosen the clamp and you can remove the nozzle.

    Use suitable nozzles. Different attachments should be used for different materials to be processed. The Dremel company produces many different attachments for working with almost all types of materials. For example, you can purchase nozzles for the following jobs:

    • carving and engraving: use high speed carving and engraving bits, carbide taper cutters, tungsten carbide cutters and diamond point cutters;
    • shaped milling: use milling cutters for contouring (straight, figured, angular, grooving, and so on); do not put anything on the milling head other than cutters;
    • drilling small holes: use drill bits (they can be purchased either individually or as part of a set).
  4. Before plugging in your Dremel, make sure it is turned off. Set the speed to minimum, connect your Dremel to the mains and test the tool at different speeds.

    Clean your Dremel every time after work. When finished, remove the nozzle and put it back in the box. Wipe the tool after work - this will significantly extend its service life. Before disassembling the tool for general cleaning, read the instructions.

    • Frequently blow out tool openings with compressed air to prevent damage to electrical circuits.

    Part 2

    cutting
    1. Use your Dremel to cut small parts. Due to its light weight and small size, the Dremel is well suited for cutting small objects. However, this is a hand tool, so it is difficult to get a straight long cut with it. However, it is possible to make several straight cuts and then level the surface with a sanding attachment.

      • Don't use your Dremel to cut thick or heavy objects - a larger tool will work better for this.
    2. Fasten the item. Use a vise or other fastening tool for this, depending on what exactly you are going to cut. Do not try to hold the object being cut in your hands.

    3. Set the appropriate speed for the given material and tool. Too high or too low speed can damage the motor, cut-off wheel or material being cut. If you are not sure, check the instructions for the recommended speed for your tool and material.

      • If you are cutting thick or hard material, do it in several steps. If the material is too thick or hard and difficult to cut, a pendulum saw may be required instead of a Dremel.
      • If there is smoke or the color of the material has changed, then you are using too high a speed. Intermittent or slow motor operation indicates that you are applying too much pressure to the tool. Release pressure and adjust speed.
    4. Try cutting through the plastic. Put a cutting wheel on your Dremel. Don't forget to wear safety goggles and earmuffs before work. Set the speed between 4 and 8 to get enough power without burning out the motor. When finished, clean up the sharp edges of the incision.

      • Do not press too hard on the tool to avoid damaging the Dremel and the cutting wheel.
      • For convenience, you can draw cut lines on the plastic. This will help you cut the material more easily and accurately.
    5. Practice cutting metal. Attach a metal cutting wheel to the Dremel chuck. Before starting work, put on protective goggles and ear protection. Turn on the tool and set the speed to between 8 and 10. Make sure the metal part is securely fastened. Lightly touch the cutting wheel to the metal for a few seconds and make a small cut. At the same time, sparks will fly from under the circle.

      • Reinforced cut-off wheels are stronger than conventional abrasive wheels. The abrasive wheel may break when cutting metal.

    Part 3

    Sharpening, grinding and polishing
    1. Use a Dremel for sanding. Grinding stones can be connected to the tool. Insert the whetstone into the chuck or holder of the Dremel and secure it. Set the speed to low so that the material does not overheat. Carefully bring the whetstone to the material and start grinding.

      • Grinding stones, grinding wheels, chainsaw chain sharpening stones, abrasive wheels and grinding points can be used for grinding. For grinding metal, porcelain and ceramics, carbide tools are best suited.
      • For sanding rounded surfaces, use cylindrical or triangular tips. Use a flat wheel to chisel or grind the inside of a corner. For grinding rounded surfaces, cylindrical or triangular tips are suitable.
    2. Use a Dremel for sharpening. Choose the right sanding tool and clamp it in your Dremel. There are emery bits with different grits, and they should all fit the same cartridge. Insert the shank of the emery tool into the chuck and tighten the nut. Turn on the Dremel and set the speed to 2 to 10. To sharpen and polish wood or plastic, select a slower speed. When working with metal, set a higher speed. Hold the workpiece securely and bring the sanding attachment close to it so that it is firmly in contact with the surface to be sharpened or sanded.

      • Make sure that the abrasive nozzles are of normal quality, otherwise they may scratch and damage the surface to be treated. The bits must not be worn and must be firmly inserted into the tool chuck. Keep a few sanding attachments on hand so you can quickly change them if needed.
      • Polish metal and plastic. The Dremel is great for polishing small parts and hard to reach places. Apply a polishing compound to the surface to be treated and install a felt tip or a polishing wheel on the Dremel. Start at a low speed (eg 2), go over the surface and spread the polish evenly over it. Polish the surface in a circular motion. Operate at low speed (no higher than 4).

        • You can do without polishing paste, but in this case you will get a less smooth surface.
        • Use rubber tips, rag polishing pads and polishing brushes for cleaning and polishing. Choose brushes with the right hardness. Polishing brushes are great for removing old paint from metal or cleaning tools or grills.
    • Keep your workplace clean. Work outdoors or in a well ventilated area. Drilling, grinding, cutting and sharpening leave small debris on you, on the floor and in the air around the workplace.
    • Always wear protective goggles when working with your Dremel.

For the production of drilling work on miniature workpieces, engraving machines, the so-called "dremels", are usually used. The name comes from the name of the most popular manufacturer. This is a convenient hand tool, but its cost is usually high (especially for quality branded products).

The most common area of ​​application is amateur modeling and production of printed circuit boards. As a rule, an industrial design for such work is redundant: some of its capabilities are not in demand. Therefore, home craftsmen often create an instrument with their own hands.

  • Of course electric motor. Power supply preferably no more than 12 volts: at least for safety reasons.
  • Power Supply, if possible with a voltage regulator (to change the number of shaft revolutions).
  • Frame(in the most primitive designs, you can do without it).
  • And the second most important detail (after the motor) - drill chuck.

Everything except the electric motor can be made independently. Although, the cost of other components is so miserable that you can limit yourself to assembling a power tool from ready-made components.

Let's take a look at some of the tried and tested options.

A complete analogue of the factory "Dremel"

For manufacturing, you will need a motor powered by 5V or 12V, which can be removed from a broken children's toy, miniature fan, printer, tape recorder, or simply bought on Aliexpress. If the drill is planned to be used not only for drilling printed circuit boards, you can make a convenient case from a polypropylene water pipe. We select the diameter so that the motor tightly clings to the walls. Ventilation usually runs along the shaft. You can use an empty tube from under the building sealant.

End caps are sawn from any material: for example, PVC or acrylic. If the engine is powerful enough, a charger from an old mobile phone will not work. You need a current margin of at least 3A (for 5 volts). A good option is an old power supply from a computer (you can buy it for a penny on the radio market).

Tip: You can make a universal source for a home workshop from a computer power supply. Stable power supply 5V with a load of up to 20 amperes, and 12V with a load of up to 8 amperes. You can connect both the Dremel and the soldering iron.

The collet chuck is purchased at the store: the department of accessories for engravers and "dremels". If there is a need to adjust the speed, you can make a circuit yourself, or purchase a ready-made block.

The illustration shows a Chinese regulator and a power supply from an Internet router (12V, 1.2A).

With the help of such a homemade "Dremel" you can not only drill miniature holes. By installing the appropriate nozzle, you can work with a cutter, cutter, or cutting disc.

Toothbrush drill

At first glance, it sounds absurd. But we will talk about an electric brush, inside which is a completely reliable motor. It is enough to get to the steel shaft, on which the gearbox with rotating bristles is put on, and the workpiece is in your hands.

The same collet chuck is put on the shaft, and batteries are installed instead of batteries. Or you can adapt a suitable AC adapter.

Drilling walls with such a device will not work, but holes in a printed circuit board are easy. In principle, you can use any compact electrical appliance that has a conveniently located motor shaft. For example, an old electric razor.

Economical option without housing

Let's move on to creating a mini drill with minimal cost. We do not buy anything other than the motor itself (although it can also be found for free in old technology). Most compact electric motors are rated for 12 volts DC. Under it, we create a power supply.

Since there will be no additional options (speed controller, voltage stabilizer), the power supply is stabilized by a constant load. A typical 12 volt micromotor operates with no more than 2 amps of current. A simple calculation shows that the output power should be 24 watts. We add 25% for rectification losses, we get a 30 W transformer.

To get 12 volts under load, 16 volts must be removed from the secondary winding. You can make such a transformer in an hour, from any unnecessary power supply. Next - a rectifier bridge on any diodes: for example, 1N1007.

Our motor does not need rectified voltage ripple, so we connect a 25-volt electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of about 1000 microfarads at the output. It will smooth out the output current. Despite its simplicity, such a tandem works stably, with only one drawback: when the load increases, the voltage drops. That is, with uniform rotation - the power supply produces 12 volts. And if you are drilling “heavy” material, you need to monitor the speed, preventing them from dropping. Otherwise, the shaft will simply stop.

You can slightly complicate the power supply circuit by adding a suitable voltage regulator. For example, KR142EN8B or L7812CV.

In this case, there will be no voltage drop when the drill is loaded.

  • If you drill only the textolite of printed circuit boards, you will not need to change the drill. So we fix it permanently. The adapter sleeve can be made from anything: a tube from a telescopic antenna, a needle from a medical syringe, a core from a gel pen.

Given the miniature design, no clamps are needed. Everything can be fixed with glue or tape.

  • With the universal use of a drill, which involves changing the drill or installing other nozzles, it would be more correct to purchase a universal collet chuck.

  • It is possible to use a standard chuck by mounting it on the shaft with an adapter sleeve.

The execution of the case depends only on your imagination. Most craftsmen leave a "bare" utilitarian design: the supply voltage is safe, the size of the motor allows you to hold it in your hands without a case.

If you want elementary aesthetics, there are many options: and they are all shareware.

A homemade tool does not just save money. It can be made exactly to your needs, unlike universal factory options.

In this article, you can get acquainted with the basic principles of the Dremel device. This article will especially help to understand this article for beginners and novice specialists in the field of construction and repair.
So, let's start, perhaps, with the most basic question, which will introduce us to the Dremel device itself - " What is a dremel?". According to experts, and just amateurs, you can make a kind of definition for a dremel - a special universal device that is designed for cutting metal, powered by electricity from the network. Be careful with the mains voltage so that there are no problems in the future.

What can be done with a dremel?

Also, let's not forget the versatility of the Dremel - with the help of it you can perform heaps of different, but similar in meaning, operations. Who still has not understood what is at stake, then you will have to decipher the above a little: with the help of a dremel, you can cut metal, engrave heavy and durable metals, alloys and chemical compounds. This is much more efficient than just cutting with an ordinary grinder on metal, because the dremel was developed by specialists specifically to increase the pressure of the device itself, as well as increase its effect on metal corrosion. Corrosion is understood here in the sense that the metal is cut during work, destroyed, but does not disappear at all with time. But that's not all - you can also grind, polish, clean the desired areas from unnecessary elements and additional equipment. Agree that this is a fairly wide range of functions that one tool can have.

That is why it is so popular among craftsmen and specialists in repair and construction.
In general, the name of the device itself came directly from the name of the company that was engaged in the production and distribution of this tool - "Dremel". In our country, it is customary to call it that - dremel. It should be noted that the popularity of this tool grew at a very high pace. This was due to the versatility of the device - after all, buying several tools, you see, is not so convenient than buying one, but reliable. Even if it is more expensive, but the quality, as you know, will always justify both the price and expectations. Therefore, never chase the price. Following one campaign, many organizations began to sell and distribute dremels, who were confident that the release of these products in the initial stages of the development of the device would certainly lead them to success. And they were not mistaken - the dremel received great recognition and popularity among the people, as well as among specialists. It should be noted those models that were most popular and in demand among craftsmen: these are dremels of the 300 series, as well as models from Stern and Ferm.
Now let's talk about the technical characteristics of the device. It should be emphasized that there is no difference what brand of device you will use in your work - they are all similar and the principle of their operation is the same. The only difference between the tools is the amount of electricity supplied, the number of revolutions, as well as ease of use. We did not particularly notice other significant shortcomings and differences in the models. But for those who have to work with metal somewhere in the forest or in areas remote from electricity, there is a separate option - the use of battery models and Dremel installations.
Well, for those who simply cannot connect the installation to a powered connector, they are given the opportunity to use compact models. Do not be afraid that the lower the power, the worse the Dremel will show itself in work. This is not at all the case - with almost any energy supplied, the Dremel will always work efficiently and rationally. But it also happens when the required revolutions are either too few or too many. What then to do? It is for this that the developers have provided for the introduction of a special speed controller into the installation. Thanks to him, you can always, without changing the setting, either lower or increase the number of revolutions of the dremel. Therefore, where thin and accurate work is needed, the speed can be reduced to a minimum, and where it will be necessary to cut a thick layer of metal, it can be increased to a maximum.
In addition to the device itself, you can also purchase various additional attachments that will greatly facilitate your work in polishing and carving metal. But this is done in extreme cases - in fact, such nozzles should be supplied directly with the dremel itself, which means that there should be exactly as many of them as almost any master can need. There is no need to look for special nozzles in the markets and from friends, because this is your first device, and therefore you yourself do not really know what nozzles are needed, and which ones will simply lie modestly on a shelf. In order to avoid wasting money and time, you can use all the set that the developers offer you.
The most popular nozzles you may need: cutting discs, special cleaning discs, polishing discs, and engraving attachments. Well, there is already a branching of nozzles into subtypes and classes, into which you should not be introduced from the very beginning.
Another plus that the developers gave us is the introduction of a special portable suitcase into the kit. It will be very useful to you in your work - there are special departments for nozzles, discs, keys, pens and other additional installation elements. If your choice is a cheap dremel, then an appropriate carrying case will be provided. Therefore, it is better to save money and buy a normal device, so that later you do not blame the campaign as material.
A specific element of the Dremel installation is the presence special flexible shaft, which will greatly help to facilitate your work, and will also greatly improve the quality of the work performed. The main plus of using the handle is ease of use, as well as lightness in the truest sense of the word. After all, it will be much easier to hold a special handle than a regular stationery marker. The flexible shaft also comes with other additional elements, such as a tripod, additional mounts, special keys, and a clamp. All of them help you to make the flexible shaft even more convenient, which will allow you to get the most out of your work.

And, perhaps, the most important question that beginners ask when buying is “what should I pay attention to before buying a dremel?”.

The answer, of course, depends on your goals and intentions, but there are a few details that must be present. The first thing to do is to test each mode of the dremel immediately upon purchase, so that when moving from slow to fast speeds, your face or other parts of the body will not be subjected to an injury-prone situation.

The next step is the absence of extraneous sounds, such as squeaking, crackling, rustling, etc. All this will only emphasize the defective product. The vibration that occurs when the dremel and metal are touched should not be large so that the device does not fly out of your hands or something. It is also desirable to check the performance of the flexible shaft and its functionality.
So, a dremel is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of any master and specialist in repair and construction. After all, you will always need to cut metal, sooner or later, but still you will need it. But be careful when buying - make sure that everything works, there are no suspicions, because the speed of revolutions that the dremel has will allow you to lose limbs in a matter of seconds.

Popular brands of dremels

Of the most popular brands and manufacturers of dremel can be called

  • Bosch (Bosch)
  • Skil (Skill)
  • Ferm
  • Hammer (Hammer)

It should be noted that the Chinese “analogues” flooded the market, so be careful when choosing a dremel - do not buy, for example, instead of Bosch - Bosh - the practice of forgery has become very common, I’ll tell you from experience that they don’t even take the “Chinese” for repairs ...

Dremel example:

DIY glass Christmas balls

Making such original decorations is quite simple. The Dremel® 3000 multifunctional tool, in combination with a special nozzle, acts as an engraver, with which we apply the initial pattern to the glass balls. Please note that engraving work is carried out on a special soft cloth pad to avoid damage to the ball when pressed hard. When working with the engraver, be careful and be sure to use safety glasses. After applying the glue mass with a gun, immediately proceed to the next step - sprinkling with sparkles, while the glue has not cooled down. If you do not have time, do not worry, carefully remove the glue with a small knife and try again.

In order to make such Christmas decorations with your own hands, you will need:

MATERIALS:

  • clear and silver glitter glue sticks
  • transparent glass Christmas balls with a diameter of 8 mm
  • white and "crystal" sequins
  • hand towel / soft cloth

INSTRUMENTS:

  • Dremel glue gun
  • Dremel® 3000 tool
  • flexible shaft Dremel 225
  • diamond-coated circular nozzle 7105
  • protective glasses

1. Using an engraver, apply a snowflake pattern to a glass ball. Don't put in too much effort.

2. Using a gun, apply a thin layer of glue along the lines of the engraved snowflakes.

Quite often it happens that when working with a dremel, it is more convenient to hold the workpiece in your hands and fix the dremel itself. To do this, you can use the holder, the manufacture of which we want to tell you in today's article.

How to make a homemade holder for working with a dremel

To make this device, you will need quite a bit:

  • a piece of board;
  • a pair of clamps, the size of which allows them to completely cover the tool body;
  • two M8 screws with nuts on them.

Before starting work, you should make sure that the selected clamps are able to completely cover the body of the dremel. Having done this, you can start working with a wooden base. In this case, the following operations are performed:

  • the longitudinal center line of the board used as the base is determined;
  • the distance between the nuts of the clamps previously put on the dremel body is measured;
  • the measured distance is plotted in the center of the center line of the board, which allows you to determine the drilling locations and make appropriate marks;
  • holes for M8 screws are drilled according to the marks;
  • so that the screw heads are flush with the surface of the board, countersinking is performed;

About other ways to beautifully hide the head of a screw or self-tapping screw,.

When determining the dimensions of the dremel under which we are making a stand, we noticed that its front part is 5 mm thinner than the back. In order for our tool to stand straight on the holder, it is necessary to shorten the screw to support the back by 5 mm.

After that, the screws can be inserted into the drilled holes and secured with nuts. Clamps can already be fastened to the screws fixed in this way.

Now, in the installed clamps, you can also fix the dremel itself.

As you can see, the manufacture of this device is not difficult. The manufactured holder is not only simple, but also very cheap. The author of this "masterpiece" claims that the total cost of the parts he used is about 70 rubles.


Sometimes it happens that ideas come to mind that cannot be implemented without certain tools. There is nothing worse for a craftsman than to realize his own impotence in such a situation.
One of the tools that people who do not have enough finances dream of is a dremel. And, if there is not enough money to buy it, then why not make it yourself ?!




Batteries 9V (2 pcs.)
Connectors for 9V batteries (2 pcs.)
Switches (to turn on the tool and power switch)
Insulating tape
Electric motor 9-18V
Mounting wires, preferably black and red
Wire cutters and wire stripper
Cardboard (2-3 sheets)
Scissors
In one of the images you can see the glue, but it was not needed - it was successfully replaced by electrical tape.

We need to connect all the elements of the circuit into a chain so that the resulting dremel will work.


Take a piece of red wire, divide it into three parts, strip the ends and connect them in series with the switches and the motor.


After that, take the battery connectors and strip the ends of the wires coming from them. Twist together the positives from each connector and the red wire connecting the motor and switches. Insulate the joints with tape.


Then take a piece of black wire and, having also stripped the ends, twist it with black ("minus") wires coming from the connectors. Then connect the resulting elongated black wire to the engine, closing the circuit.


Roll the cardboard around the motor and secure it with a piece of duct tape.


Estimate on the resulting case where it will be more convenient to place the switches. Place them so that you can turn on the dremel with your thumb, and turn on the power with your little finger. Use scissors to cut holes large enough to fit the switches.


Then seal the edges of the holes with electrical tape - this way the design will look neater, and the switches will sit tighter in their sockets.




Attach the batteries to the connectors hanging from the back of the cardboard case and secure them with tape. If the case doesn't look strong enough to hold all the pieces, add more cardboard.

Congratulations! You have assembled half of the dremel with your own hands.

It remains to solve the problem with the bit holder. We will need epoxy, a syringe, a knife and a drill or cutter that needs to be fixed to the tool.
Fill the syringe with epoxy mixed with hardener. Try to avoid bubbles.


Insert the motor axis into the syringe and wait until the resin hardens.
So, we have a piece of plastic on the axis of the engine.


Turn on our homemade dremel and with a knife, cut off the excess, give the plastic a cone shape.
Now we have a crucial step - it is necessary to drill a hole in the center of the cone.


After that, we have a great bit holder. You can insert a drill and test its operation. You can fix the drill with superglue. It does not adhere to metal very well, so the drill on the dremel can be replaced. You can make a separate holder for each drill, because the materials are not expensive.
The author claims that the accuracy of the tool is very high and surpasses cheap engravers and drills.


As a result, we got a homemade dremel, assembled completely with our own hands. It certainly doesn't have the durability and precision of expensive branded instruments. But it will fit perfectly in cases where you are short of money, but you simply need it for work.