How to make a craquelure battery. Crack effect paint: where and how to use. The use of two-component formulations

An unusually popular trend in decoupage is the creation of “antique” things using the decoupage technique. In the course is the use of printouts and napkins with old pictures, and, of course, the use of various aging techniques.

The most popular among decoupage makers, of course, was the aging technique by creating cracks, or crackle.

The technology for creating craquelure can be used in one of two types: one-step craquelure and two-step craquelure.

One-step craquelure is quite simple, the composition for creating crackle cracks the top layer of paint and is applied to the painted surface of the workpiece, showing the base itself in the cracks or another layer of paint of a different color superimposed on top of the craquelure varnish.

But the two-step craquelure in decoupage is more difficult to use, but the result allows you to get a fundamentally different one. Crackle in the two-step system is the cracking of the lacquer layer applied over the finished work (that is, the primed, decoupage and painted surface). Cracks in this technique are just a full-fledged imitation of an antique, the varnish on which has cracked from time to time, and dirt has clogged into the cracks. Cracks with a two-step craquelure turn out to be transparent (which is logical, because these are cracks in a transparent layer), and these cracks need to be “showed”, imitating the same “dirt from time”. They show cracks with various grouts (coloring compounds) - oil paint, grated pastel, acrylic, or even eye shadow.

The two-step craquelure system is capricious, and the result does not always please the skilled craftswoman. To avoid disappointment, you need to know as much as possible about the two-step craquelure and the technique for applying it correctly.

So, two-step craquelure in decoupage: general principles

The first layer of varnish is applied to the prepared surface (first step), the layer dries to “tack”, that is, when touched with a finger, it should stick a little, but not “stick” and leave no marks. After the first layer is ready, a layer of the second varnish from a pair is applied to the work surface (second step). After the second varnish has dried, the cracks must be rubbed with powder, pigments, bitumen, oil paints (depending on the purpose, the desired color and the selected type of craquelure varnish). Then the workpiece must be gently rinsed under running water to wash off the second varnish, and after drying, cover with a finishing varnish. When washing off, the surface can be gently and gently “rubbed” when the feeling of slipperiness disappears - the craquelure varnish is washed off.

In some cases, the second varnish may not be washed off, however, the durability of the coating cannot be guaranteed, and in such a situation the top varnish must not be water-based!

Secrets of craquelure

It is advisable to varnish the finished work before creating crackle. Firstly, it will protect the decor made from a napkin, secondly, it will make the surface smooth, and thirdly, it will reduce the “absorption” of the surface and the craquelure will turn out better.
It is desirable to apply the first step not too thinly, and sometimes it is better to make a double layer of it.
The second step must be applied as evenly as possible (then the cracks will be more uniform), leaving no empty spaces. This is important, because if there are "bald spots", then when grouting, dirty spots form in these places.
It is best to dry craquelure in a natural way in a room without high humidity. If you use a hair dryer, then most likely, the cracks will be smaller. However, there is a risk that bubbles and irregularities may form on the surface of the product.
The size of the cracks is quite dependent on the thickness of the second coat of varnish. The thicker the varnish layer, the larger the cracks.
Do not overdry the first layer of varnish (first step). Otherwise, you risk facing the fact that when washing off the second layer with water, your grout will also be washed off.
For long-drying compositions for the first layer, the following relationship can be formulated: the longer this layer dries before applying the second step, the smaller the cracks in the finished work.

And, finally, a few more tips on craquelure:

Craquelure compositions give the work a yellowish tint (“yellow”), and some craquelure pairs yellow quite strongly, some give yellowness to a much lesser extent. In most cases, this is not bad for work - after all, this yellowness adds an additional effect of antiquity to the product. However, some works are done in cold colors, and for such works, yellowness is completely out of place!
Write down how you applied each layer of varnish (thickness and number of layers of the first step, thickness of the second layer, application method - direction of strokes and tool, drying time for each layer and approximate climatic conditions), the pair of varnishes used and the result. Thus, you can predict the result in other works and achieve the intended result with great success.
When grouting, do not overdo it, cracks should not cover the beauty of the pasted motif, otherwise the whole meaning of decoupage is lost, and only craquelure comes to the fore.
Do not forget to cover the work with a finishing varnish in several layers with intermediate polishing.

The best way to “reinforce theoretical material is always practice.

Therefore, we offer you a simple decoupage master class for beginners: we will decoupage the box step by step with applying craquelure.

Before work, you need to acquire:

Preparing a box made of wood or MDF.
Napkin with a motif.
Flat brushes.
Primer on wood.
office file.
Scissors.
Spray gun.
A jar of water.
Craquelure pair (two varnishes for two-phase craquelure).
Golden powder.
Acrylic paint.
Sandpaper, bars, etc.

If you do not have a suitable napkin, then you can print one of the similar pictures that are perfect for this work and use it in decoupage of the box. Remember that it is better to print a picture on a laser printer. It is convenient to thin the picture with adhesive tape. Just glue the wrong side of the sheet with the picture with strips of tape, applying the strips with a slight overlap. Smooth it out well so that the tape sticks tightly over the entire surface of the sheet of paper, and then carefully, starting from one corner, remove the tape. The adhesive tape will “peel off” along with the top layer of paper, leaving the picture thin.

Pictures for decoupage a bouquet of flowers on a dark background

Before finishing, it is necessary to unscrew the hinges from the box and apply primer (building primer on wood). If there are defects on the workpiece (notches, “burrs”), then it is advisable to slightly grind the workpiece in these places before priming.
We paint the ends and bottom on the outside of the box in dark green (or another color you choose). We cover the inner surface and legs with golden paint. We grind each layer of paint. We apply white paint to the outer surface of the lid and also carefully process it with emery.

Next, separate the colored layer of the napkin and cut out the pattern. We lay it on the file with the colored side down and moisten with a spray bottle. Flatten the paper towel with your fingers and remove any bubbles that form. Lubricate the lid with glue (for example, PVA with water) and put a file with a wet motif on it, press it down, carefully remove the film. I'm waiting for it to dry.

Craquelure is one of today's fashionable ways to decorate your home and its interior, giving things an "aging effect".

You can give the effect of craquelure to any thing from any material: glass, wood, paper, ceramics and even metal. Each of these materials has its own most convenient technique for performing this type of design.

Basics of craquelure

Do-it-yourself craquelure can be made, both with the help of craquelure varnish, sold in specialized stores, and with the help of improvised means, which you will probably have at hand. It can be:

PVA glue;
Egg white;
table vinegar;
Gelatin;
Liquid washing gel.

Masters who are seriously involved in the craquelure technique can suggest dozens of ways to age the surface using improvised means, but we will talk about the basic, easiest options for applying craquelure at home.

Classic craquelure

The simplest type of craquelure application is called single-phase. It is used for uniform coloring of surfaces with contrasting cracks.

We will need:

Item chosen for decoration;
Primer;
Ground brush;
Acrylic paints in two tones (preferably contrasting);
One-component varnish for craquelure;
Finishing (acrylic) varnish;
Hairdryer (for drying the product).

Step by step process:

Thoroughly clean the surface of the object to be decorated from dust and apply a primer. Use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process.
Apply the acrylic paint you chose for the cracks. Let her dry completely.
Apply varnish evenly, quickly and without gaps - the thicker the layer you get, the thicker the cracks will be in the end. The varnish should be allowed to dry until it is still tacky, but no longer sticks to the fingers.
Apply the second (primary) acrylic paint and wait until cracks appear after 10 minutes.
Fix the finished result with a finishing varnish.

In this way, you can decorate jewelry boxes, photo frames, wooden and porcelain interior items, etc.

Craquelure on PVA

Using ordinary PVA glue, you can create decoupage - this is when a craquelure mesh is applied to a surface on which napkin motifs are pre-glued.

We will need:

The product chosen for decoration;
Water-based paint (two contrasting colors);
PVA glue;
Napkin motifs;
Artistic brushes;
Acrylic lacquer.

Step by step process:

Rinse the selected product thoroughly and degrease with alcohol or vodka.
Apply dark water-based paint evenly over the entire surface. Wait until the paint is completely dry.
With an art brush, apply a layer of PVA glue to the surface. Try to apply from left to right or from top to bottom, avoiding circular motions.
After the glue dries, apply a layer of water-based paint again (but in a second, contrasting color). The movements of the brush should be performed in one direction.
Without waiting for the paint to dry, take a hair dryer and direct a jet of hot air onto the product. When exposed to hot air, the paint will begin to crack.
To achieve deeper and coarser wrinkles, sushi products last longer. A few minutes is enough to apply small cracks.
Next, perform decoupage: decorate the product with the top layer of a napkin, and cover it with several layers of acrylic varnish on top.

Craquelure decoupage looks great on various dishes (plates, cups, trays, mugs), vases, flower pots, etc.

Craquelure on an eggshell

You can do this method of applying craquelure with your child, it is so safe and easy to use.

We will need:

Decoration item;
PVA glue;
Eggshell;
Paper;
Napkins with motifs;
Watercolor paints;

Step by step process:

Rinse the selected product and degrease with alcohol.
Carefully crumple a sheet of paper - try to have more small folds.
Glue the entire surface of the product with crumpled paper using PVA glue.
Glue the top layer of the napkin on top with PVA glue diluted with water (glue the napkin with an art brush).
When the product dries, apply another layer of PVA on it, and glue small pieces of eggshell on top (apply the shell near the glued napkin motif, and not on top!).
Once the glue has dried, you can decorate the product with watercolors, except for the place with the motif.
Top the product with a layer of varnish for durability.

In this way, a child can prepare a beautiful and original gift with his own hands.

Before starting work, carry out wet cleaning and ventilate the room well to avoid dust settling on the product.
Finishing varnish for application to the product must be transparent and uniform.
If you use a brush to apply craquelure, then the cracks will be directed parallel to the movement of the pile. To obtain a finer network of cracks, the liquid can be distributed with a sponge.
Craquelure can be made using vinegar or gelatin, using acrylic paint as a base. To do this, the product is covered with a layer of paint, and after drying, gelatin (or vinegar) is applied - cracks appear instantly (do not forget to varnish the product at the end).

How to make craquelure with your own hands? It is quite simple, even novice craftswomen can handle this technique. The main thing is to stock up on enough free time, the necessary materials, desire and a little imagination.

Craquelure is well known to artists. These are cracks in the old paint. They give a unique look to the work of painting, confirm its antiquity and often increase the value. Therefore, in our time, many are trying to artificially age the picture. This process is also called craquelure - they use craquelure varnish.

What is craquelure

With the help of a special varnish for craquelure, a network of cracks can be obtained on the surface, into which ink or oil paint is rubbed for contrast. This technique is used when decorating objects in everyday life.

Use craquelure in decoupage. A pattern is applied to glass, wooden, ceramic, metal products and varnished. Then intensive drying takes place, as a result of which cracks form. It is not necessary to use expensive materials, you can use improvised means. These are PVA glue, raw egg white, gelatin, vinegar, some gel-like substances used for washing.

One-step craquelure in decoupage

Application to different surfaces is carried out by different methods. The most popular way is one-step craquelure. It is used to produce effective contrast color cracks on objects. For this you will need:

decoupage product;
water-based or acrylic paint in two colors;
PVA glue;
drawings;
acrylic and finishing varnish;
synthetic brush;
primer.

Decoupage of the product is carried out in stages:

The surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, then degreased with alcohol.
A primer coat is applied to a clean surface with a brush. It must dry completely.
Paint is applied to the primer, which will later show through the cracks.
The surface is covered with a craquelure compound.
Contrasting paint is applied to the object.
The last layer is dried with a hair dryer. When drying, the paint begins to crack. The previous layer shows through the cracks.

If there are no drawings on the product, they must be cut out of paper and glued after cleaning and degreasing the object. The drawing is fixed with PVA glue. The one-step decoupage with craquelure performed according to this instruction looks good on vases and flower pots, on trays and plates. Finishing ends with a top coat. In this way, you can arrange photo frames, wood boxes, porcelain items.

Two-step craquelure in decoupage

The two-step method is more difficult to use. To work, you need to prepare:

item for decoration;
acrylic lacquer;
artistic brushes;
gum arabic;
shellac;
bitumen;
powder silver or gold.

Gum arabic is like a viscous liquid. In the open air, it quickly hardens. Shellac is a natural resin.

Two-step craquelure is applied in the following sequence:

The item is cleaned, degreased and covered with acrylic varnish in 2 layers. Let dry.
Shellac is applied liberally. The thicker the layer, the larger the cracks will be. Leaks must not be allowed.
Gum arabic is applied to the still sticky layer of shellac and rubbed.
Gum arabic hardens and cracks. Bitumen and powder can be rubbed into cracks.
Cover the product with a finishing layer.

Description and technique of applying craquelure varnishes for decoupage

Lacquer with craquelure effect is one-step and two-step. One-step (or one-component) is applied between contrasting layers of paint. Two-step (two-component) - on a layer of shellac. The composition must be applied to the surface of the decorated objects correctly. This is done with a synthetic brush if possible. Before applying shellac, do not shake it so that air bubbles do not form in it.

There should be no dust in the room. Before work, it must be well ventilated. The resulting cracks on the subject can be rubbed with dark-colored paint and silver or gold-colored powder. Excess is removed with a swab dipped in vegetable oil. At the end of the work, the surface of the product is carefully wiped and covered with a finishing protective acrylic varnish.

Cracks form in the direction of brush movement. To obtain a craquelure mesh, you need to use varnish with the help of small strokes.

What errors can occur when applying

Lacquer should be applied with a wide brush in even strokes. You can not brush 2 times in one place. Under normal temperature conditions, the size of the cracks depends on the thickness of the varnish layer. The varnish dries in about 30 minutes. You can't overdry it. A poorly applied layer must be washed off and applied again. This is easy to do if the varnish is water-based. To get small cracks on the surface, it is better to use a sponge. You need to dry the varnish until the moment when the finger sticks to it, but does not get dirty. On a completely dried layer, cracks are not always obtained.

Acrylic paint is selected with a matte surface. One-component varnish should be located between its two layers. Brushes after work are washed with turpentine, then with water using laundry soap.

How to make craquelure varnish with your own hands

There are many types of craquelure varnish. There are also tutorials on how to make it at home. You can replace the varnish with a homemade one based on gelatin, wheat dextrin and other materials. Vinegar and egg white are necessarily added to the composition.

To create a varnish with your own hands, you need to prepare:

acrylic based paints;
brush;
sponge
varnish PF-283;
PVA glue;
wheat dextrin.

Making a composition for craquelure from gelatin

Lacquer consists of:

1 st. l. gelatin;
1 glass of water.

Gelatin is poured into water for swelling, heated and completely dissolved. After cooling, the composition is ready for use. It is applied to the surface and dried. On the dried layer, you can apply any other layers, depending on the idea. Most often, a layer of protective varnish is used. Such a composition is good in that, if necessary, it is easy to wash it off with plain water and apply a fresh layer to obtain a cracking effect.

Making a mixture for craquelure from wheat dextrin

Varnish can be made from wheat dextrin. This adhesive is obtained from wheat starch by heat treatment. It is enough to take 40 grams of it, add boiling water and soak. The result should be a mixture that has the consistency of liquid yogurt. A layer of glossy varnish is applied to the decoupage-treated surface and dried. After that, a thick layer of dextrin is applied with a wide brush. It dries in about 30 minutes without a hair dryer.

Making a composition from a liquid gel

For decoupage of furniture, a composition based on a washing gel is used. A base color is applied to the surface of the object and dried. After drying with a brush, a thick layer of gel is applied. You can do it with a sea sponge. This method is used on fabric surfaces.

Egg white in craquelure technique

To use craquelure on the walls of the room, egg white is used. First, a section of the wall is covered with acrylic-based latex paint. You can do it twice. After drying, protein is applied in large strokes. Dry it without a hair dryer. On the dried layer, you can lay the remaining layers.

What do you do with old furniture?

The technique of "crackle" ("craquelure") involves the artificial aging of varnished or painted surfaces of various pieces of furniture and interior attributes (paintings, caskets, vases and other accessories).

The name of the artificial aging technology comes from the French word "craquelure" - a crack. Despite the fact that this technology originally appeared as a means of restoring antique furniture, today it is widely used in the production of new products to give them some flair of antiquity.

Cracking technology for wooden surfaces

Modern industry produces many compositions for applying craquelure at home with your own hands. Moreover, some of them can be used not only for processing wood, but also for applying “antique” cracks to the surface of products made of plastic or metal. Decorative metal additions to wooden furniture, on which patina or complemented with craquelure, will look quite stylish and original.

To apply craquelure cracks, you can buy a one-component crackle varnish or a two-component composition, a set of which is sold in the form of two bottles. a one-component varnish is quite suitable.

Many experienced restorers believe that a more natural, antique look, furniture items are obtained if cracks are formed using improvised means - vinegar essence, egg white, gelatin, and even washing gel. However, for those who want to try their hand at restoration work for the first time, it is better to use a special crackle varnish sold in household goods stores under the brands Stamperia and Ferrario (Italy) or Havo (Netherlands) called "Creall-Crackle" or Antique Crackle.

Crackle technique for beginner restorers

For home craftsmen who feel sorry for throwing away outdated but familiar furniture and those who want to update it, we can offer the Provence-style restoration technique. To carry out restoration work, it is necessary to purchase two types of acrylic paint in contrasting shades and a one-component lacquer "Crackle Country Style", intended for use with acrylic dyes.

Before starting the restoration, the old paint and varnish coating is removed from the furniture surface, after which the wooden surface is primed with acrylic paint (preferably in metallic color). After complete drying of the metallized paint base, the surface of the restored product is covered with craquelure varnish.

It should be borne in mind that the width of the cracks depends on the thickness of the varnish layer. The thicker the varnish layer, the wider the lines of the crackle grid will be.

After the varnish has completely dried, a second coloring layer is applied to it, for which a matte paint is chosen - glossy or metallized paint is not suitable for the second coloring, since it will not react with the varnish layer and the crackle network will not spontaneously form.

While the paint has not hardened, its surface is worked out with a brush with synthetic bristles, due to which a network of cracks is formed. If cracks began to form during the reaction of matte paint with dried crackle varnish, then brushing can be omitted, since lack of experience can lead to sloppy decoration.

On a note!

After the paint has dried, the surface of the furniture can be decoupled or simply covered with a layer of protective, transparent varnish.

Beginning restorers can be recommended to purchase kits for home art "Crackle" (manufacturer "Aqua-Color") or "Creative" (TINTA Viva), which include one-step krakenlure and protective varnish, brushes and several bottles of acrylic paint in various colors.

The use of two-component formulations

A better craquelure mesh can be obtained by using a two-component varnish "Crackle Sottile" (brand "Stamperia"). When restoring wooden furniture products, after cleaning the surface of the old paint and varnish coating and grinding, a varnish is applied to it with a brush with synthetic bristles, designated as “Step 1”.

After the varnish layer has dried for 30.0…40.0 minutes, the second component is applied to it - “Step 2”. The decorativeness of the resulting mesh depends on the thickness of the second layer. To speed up the drying process of the second varnish coating, many "homemade" use a hair dryer, and with a large area - a construction hair dryer.

In order to make cracks more visible, they are subjected to additional decoration, for which bronze powder or aluminum silver powder is rubbed into the cracks. It is better to use a special metallized powder for craquelure "Porporina" from "Stamperia". You can use regular oil paint or bituminous varnish.

On a note!

After grouting, paint residues and excess powdery material are removed from the surface of the product, for which ordinary sunflower oil can be used.

At the final stage, a well-wiped surface is opened with a finishing varnish-fixer "Darkening Lacquer" or a water-based acrylic varnish.

When using "branded" products and compositions for the artificial aging of furniture using the "craquelure" technique, the following rules must be observed:

when buying varnish, you need to shake the bottle, checking the transparency, uniformity of consistency and density of the composition;
to prevent the formation of bubbles on the treated surface and in the varnish layer, the vial with the working composition must not be shaken before use;
restoration work should be carried out in a ventilated room where wet cleaning is performed;
when using single-component compositions, the direction of the cracks will coincide with the direction of movement of the brush;
when using contrasting acrylic dyes, a particularly decorative effect is obtained when choosing paints of light-dark or pale-saturated shades.

Using improvised means in the crackle technique

If there are no branded compositions at hand to create an antique grid, then you can use the tools at hand that any housewife or zealous home craftsman has in their arsenal. Most often, when forming cracks, they use:

stationery or repair and construction polyvinyl acetate glue;
various types of furniture varnishes;
from food products, you can choose vinegar essence, gelatin or raw egg white.

It is also worth exploring some additional recommendations:

When using a polyvinyl acetate emulsion (PVA glue), it is applied in a thick layer on the surface to be decorated and slightly dried. When the adhesive layer acquires a sticky consistency, water-based acrylic paint is applied over it, and after it has reacted with the adhesive and the crack texture has appeared, the product is dried with a household or building hair dryer.
For home "aging" you can use pentaphthalic varnish "PF 283", which is applied to the product and pre-dried naturally for four hours until a slightly sticky film is formed. After that, the varnish coating is opened with a layer of acrylic paint and dried until a mesh texture appears. The product is then dried naturally.
Egg white is applied over a double applied layer of acrylic paint. After the protein has dried without the use of a hair dryer, a contrasting (with respect to the base) acrylic paint is applied to it.
The crackle technique using gelatin is similar. Its advantage is the possibility of forming grid lines, the width of which directly depends on the thickness of the gelatin layer.
A nine percent solution of vinegar essence is applied with a sponge to a dried acrylic-based dye. The grid in the form of cracks appears almost immediately.

Conclusion

Novice restorers should be aware that the first attempts may be unsuccessful, since in the technique of artificial aging "craquelure" work experience and the skills gained in this process are very important, which can replace any "branded" tools and kits.

Video

The video provides detailed instructions for applying craquelure varnish.

Finally, I found the time to write to you about craquelure on PVA. I love doing it and I always get it much better than with single-phase craquelure varnishes. But the technology is the same.
The first layer is acrylic paint. Not always the first time we get the craquelure mesh we need. Especially at the first stages of training. I have to wash off the failed work. Therefore, I advise you, in order not to damage the acrylic paint applied to the surface, to fix it with a layer of acrylic varnish. Now I don’t do this, but at first it helped me.
The second layer is PVA glue. I apply it with a brush, in a fairly thick layer, evenly smearing it over the entire surface. Air bubbles may form on the surface, which can be clearly seen in the picture. I remove them with my hand, gently running them over the surface. These bubbles then do not look very nice on the surface. I dry this layer, but not completely. It's just that the glue should not reach for the brush and not stick to your hands, but under the top film it will still be damp. In some places it will become transparent, and in some places it will remain cloudy. This is clearly visible in the photo.

I must say right away that the glue should not be rare and craquelure is not obtained with every glue. I experimented and made craquelure with two types of glue. The results and what kind of glue was used are clearly visible in the photographs.

This second glue is just my favorite glue that I use for craquelure.
I advise you to find your own glue. Buy glues of different brands each time and try to make craquelure on them and you will find your glue. I was lucky, I found it the first time.
Glue should not be rare. The adhesive must be well mixed before use. Or you can generally drain the top layer of glue and try craquelure on the lower, thicker layer.

The third layer is a layer of acrylic paint contrasting with the first layer.
It can be applied with a brush and very well with a sponge. On this board, it is applied with a sponge. This results in a more uniform surface.
Then immediately dry this layer with a hair dryer. As it dries, cracks form.

I also noticed that if you apply pure artistic acrylic, then cracks may not appear, and if you dilute it with acrylic building paint, then they turn out without problems.
this is obtained because art acrylic has a more elastic film that does not crack after drying, which is what we need in this case, but stretches.
I usually always use building acrylic and tint it in the color I need with art.
After the paint has dried, you can go over the sandpaper to remove the roughness of the surface after applying the paint with a sponge.
Wipe with a damp sponge to remove dust from cracks. Cover with one layer of acrylic varnish and you can start decoupage.
To decoupage this board, I used 2 types of napkins. Pulled out motives. I glued them on diluted PVA glue.

Then, after drying, I covered the board with 1 layer of acrylic varnish.
Using a sponge, I applied a light background to the surface so that the napkin motifs looked like a single pattern. Everything was done with acrylic paints.
I applied 2 coats of acrylic lacquer.
Sanded all the imperfections.
At the end, several more layers of varnish with intermediate sanding after each layer dries. Job is done.
Closer view of the cracks on the board.

Why do I love using PVA for craquelure? Because it is much easier to apply a second coat of paint. It does not roll under the brush and sponge, which happens with special tools when they are not dried enough. Cracks do not appear instantly, but after a few seconds, which is enough for a uniform application of the second layer of paint. The cracks are very delicate. And glue is much cheaper than special varnishes. PVA is easy to buy, and craquelure varnishes are not available everywhere.
I hope everything works out for you too.

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