How to install a cornice strip for a metal tile yourself. Features of mounting a ridge and wind strip How to install a ridge strip

In this article, we will talk in detail about additional elements that must be present on every roofing from corrugated board or metal tiles.

The main types of additional elements for the roof

• skate plank
• End plate
• endova
• junction bar
• low tides
• Snow guards

skate plank

Flat ridge - a plank designed to cover the joint of roofing sheets in the ridge part of the roof. The standard size of such a bar is considered to be 150x150mm. The edges of the plank must be rolled.

The bending angle of the bar must be calculated in advance so that the manufacturer would bend it immediately in the form in which you need.

Also, if you need some non-standard size, then the manufacturer should not have any problems with its manufacture.

A figure skate is designed to perform the same functions as a flat skate. The difference lies in the more complex figured execution.

Has a more beautiful appearance. Due to the upper curly comb, the consumption of material for the manufacture of such a bar increases, and, accordingly, the price of the product does not increase significantly.

End plate

flat end bar- it is also popularly “frontal” designed for installation on the gable part of the roof. After or corrugated board, non-closed areas remain on the sides. The function of such a bar is to protect the roofing cake from wind and precipitation.

The standard size of a flat end plate is mainly 100x150mm. If there is a need for other sizes, they will be made to order according to your drawings without any problems.

Figured end plank- unlike flat, it has a more beautiful appearance, and is a little more difficult to manufacture. Due to the greater number of angles, it is more rigid and able to withstand a greater wind load. Dimensions are adjusted as needed at the time of order.

The installation of the bar should be carried out after the work has been completed.

endova

Lower valley - such additional elements also popularly called the "bar of the internal joint." By this name it is not difficult to determine that it is used in places where an internal joint of two roof slopes is formed.

The lower valley is placed under the roofing sheets, and thus additional protection against precipitation is created at the junctions. The dimensions of the valley are on average 320x320mm, including rolling.

The upper valley is mainly a decorative additional element, and additional protection at the joints of the negative corners of the roof.

junction bar

Adjacency strip - this type of bending element for the roof, designed to protect against rainfall at the junction of sections of the roof to walls or pipes.

Often such a bar is made with the so-called "strobe". With its help, it becomes possible to delve into the wall. Thus, you will very reliably protect the junction of the roof to the wall from precipitation ingress into the under-roof space. The dimensions of such an element are quite individual, therefore, before ordering the bar, take measurements several times and carefully consider the bending configuration and the dimensions of the corners of the future junction bar.

When installing the junction bar, I strongly recommend using additional waterproofing, as well as applying sealants in places where small gaps form. This approach will make your roofing cake feel dry and comfortable 🙂

low tides

Window sills - used to protect against excess moisture between the wall and windows. Also, these additional elements made of galvanized steel are able to protect the window sill from minor mechanical damage. The slats are configured to have a slight slope on the main part of the product, which facilitates the flow of water. After installation of ebbs, window openings acquire a more pronounced and pleasant appearance.

Snow guards

Suddenly falling snow from the roof onto your head is a rather not very pleasant phenomenon :). Whatever - always save yourself from this trouble - do not forget to mount snow retainers on your roof.

Their immediate function is precisely to prevent snow from slipping along the slippery polymer coating of corrugated board or metal tiles.

The configuration of snow retainers can be different, depending on the wishes of the client, but this does not change the essence.

Mount such additional elements mostly staggered. The calculation of the number of snow retainers must be carried out based on the average amount of snow falling in your area. In general, it is enough to install one row for each slope along the perimeter of the roof. In case of high snow loads or too long roof slope, additional rows are installed.

This manual provides all the necessary information regarding the installation of roofing. Read the instructions carefully before starting work.

Measurement and calculation

Profiled steel sheets are supplied in custom sizes. As a rule, the length of the slope is taken as the length of the sheet. The sheet is always mounted to the base so that its edge protrudes 40 mm above the eaves - then there is a sufficient gap on the ridge for ventilation. Make a calculation according to the drawing. But still, measure the prepared crate design. Measure the slope diagonally to make sure it is square. The required number of sheets is easy to calculate by dividing the length of the cornice by the useful width of the sheet.

hipped roof

When calculating a hipped roof, you need to make a drawing on graph paper and calculate each sheet. Ruukki metal tiles have a capillary groove on the left side of the sheet. The remains of sheets used on one slope cannot be used on other slopes (unlike conventional roofs).

ledge

The transverse profile drawing implies a certain step. Therefore, for high-quality installation of sheets protruding beyond the eaves of the main slope, it is necessary to correctly calculate the length of these sheets. The length of the sheet must be selected, remembering that this length must be a multiple of:

• ELITE 400mm
• MONTERREY 350mm
• CASCADE 300mm

To avoid calculation errors, please contact Ruukki specialists.

Profile sheet type Monterrey.

• useful sheet width - 1100 mm
• cornice length 18500 mm
• number of sheets 18500 mm: 1100 mm = 16.82

Means: 17 pcs x 2 = 34 pcs

Attention: sheets of different types have different useful sheet widths:

• ELITE 1025 mm
• MONTERREY 1100 mm
• CASCADE 1050 mm

Programs specially designed for this will save your time and money, and experienced managers will be able to take into account all the wishes regarding the arrangement of the roof of your house.

Ventilation

Warm air from the interior rises and condenses in the form of moisture on the cold inner surface of the profiled sheet. To avoid this, it is necessary to perform thermal insulation of the interior, carefully perform waterproofing under the crate, and ensure good ventilation. For good ventilation, waterproofing is done so that the air stream can freely pass from the cornice under the roof ridge. Ventilation openings are installed at the highest point of the roof. The waterproofing material (film) is overlapped from the eaves to the ridge above the insulation on the rafters with an air gap of at least 50 mm between the waterproofing layer and the inner surface of the roofing sheet. The slats of the counter-lattice serve as a fastening element of the waterproofing film. Warehouse rooms and cold attics are ventilated through the end windows. Forced ventilation should be provided in especially damp rooms.

How to handle metal tiles

Storage

Sheets of metal tiles with one or another coating can be stored in their original packaging for 1 month, placing bars of about 20 cm in increments of about 0.5 m on level ground under the package. taking the edges along the length. Be careful not to cut your hands on the sharp edges of the sheets.

Additional processing

Although the profiled sheets are made to the dimensions of the slope, they have to be cut manually during installation. It is convenient to cut the sheet along the length with a hacksaw or scissors. If it is necessary to make a diagonal cut, then a hand-held electric saw with carbide teeth is used for this. Attention! The use of grinders with abrasive wheels is prohibited.

leaf care

The sawdust formed when cutting the sheet or when drilling must be carefully removed, otherwise the metal chips will rust and ruin the coating. If during installation work the surface of the sheets is contaminated, then the dirt can be easily washed off with a mild detergent. Particularly strong cleaning agents can damage the polymer coating layer.

Coloring

If during transportation or installation the metal tile has been subjected to heavy loads and scratches have formed on the surface, then it is necessary to touch up these places with a special paint supplied by Ruukki. When making diagonal cuts during installation, the protection of steel against corrosion is violated. Therefore, always tint the edges of the cut sheet.

Lathing installation

When marking the boards of the crate, contact the designer. Boards 32 × 100 mm are used for the crate, they are installed at the required interval, depending on what type of tile is being worked on (see the figure). The board facing the cornice should be 10-15 mm thicker than the others.

Sheathing and lining

Attention! The wooden laths of the lathing are always mounted on top of the laths of the counter lathing. When installing the lathing under the roof, it is always recommended to use waterproofing material for laying. The purpose of waterproofing under the lathing is to prevent condensation from occurring on the inside of the roof sheet. The waterproofing material must absorb moisture from the thermal insulation side. The RANKKA TAK anti-condensation film perfectly meets this requirement.

The end plate must be higher than the crate by the height of the profile sheet (dimension X - see picture).

• MONTERREY 40 mm
• ELITE 60 mm
• CASCADE 45 mm

Check out the drawing!

Sheathing boards are nailed to the rafters with galvanized nails.

In order for the ridge plank to be well fixed, two additional wooden slats are installed under it on both sides.

eaves plank

The LR eaves strip is fastened before the roofing sheets. 100 mm is enough for an overlap. The bar is fixed with galvanized nails with a distance of 300 mm. To cut the sheet, use scissors for metal.

Installation of roofing sheets

Installation of sheets can be started from any end on a gable roof, and on a hipped roof, one should begin with the installation of sheets at the highest point of the slope and move, laying the sheets evenly, in different directions from the first sheet. The capillary groove of each sheet must be covered by the next sheet. In sheets of various types, the capillary groove is located:

• ELITE on the wave of the left edge
• at MONTERREY on the wave of the left edge
• at CASCADE on the left edge.

It is more convenient to start laying sheets from left to right, because this makes it possible to install a loose sheet, slipping it under a previously fixed sheet. The edge of the sheet is installed along the cornice and fastened with a protrusion from the cornice by 40 mm. Install the first sheet on the slope and secure it with one self-tapping screw to the crate under the ridge. Then lay the second sheet so that the bottom edges of the sheets form a straight line. Fasten the sheets together with one self-tapping screw, installing it in the crest of the wave under the first transverse step of the metal tile profile. For exact joining of sheets along the length, one sheet should be lifted, and then, slightly tilting it, lay step by step, paying special attention to the accuracy of observing the metal tile pattern. This should be done from the bottom up, fasten the sheets together with self-tapping screws, which are placed in the crest of the wave under each step. Having fastened together 3-4 sheets in this way, align the resulting lower edge strictly along the eaves. After that, the sheets can be attached to the crate by placing self-tapping screws in a zigzag pattern. This method of installation ensures that there is no visible joint between the sheets over the entire area of ​​the roof.

Fastening sheets to the crate

Profile sheets Monterrey, Elite, Cascade are always fastened with self-tapping screws. In working with self-tapping screws, an electric drill with a nozzle (socket) for screws is very convenient. Self-tapping screws with a sealing washer RA 4.8×28 are installed at the lowest point of the metal tile wave under the transverse step of the profile. 6 self-tapping screws are required per 1 sq.m of the profile, given that the sheet is attached along the edge only in every second wave.

Places of overlap along the length

In places of overlap, the sheets are installed according to the transverse pattern (usually 100 mm is enough for an overlap) and fastened as indicated above. Each case is recommended to be dealt with separately.

How to move on a profiled sheet

It is necessary to walk along the profile carefully in shoes with soft soles and step only in the places of the crate and in the deflection of the wave.

Internal joint

The internal joint on roofs having the shape of the Latin letter L is performed with the installation of a valley and valley overlays. First, a solid wooden structure with waterproofing is mounted, and then the valley plank is installed. Sealing the gap between the roofing sheet and the internal joint is carried out using a special sealant.

For internal joints, Ruukki's standard LSJ gutter strip is also available. The overlap of the planks for the groove must be at least 150 mm. An LSJP valley trim can be mounted on the inner joint. It is fastened without seals, with rivets or self-tapping screws along the top of the profile wave with a distance of 300-500 mm.

The end plank LP is fixed to the wooden base with screws. If the base is made according to the instructions (p. 9), then the end plate easily covers the end over the profile wave.

The ridge strip is installed at the very last moment, when all the roofing sheets are installed and fixed, the ridge seals are in place. With proper installation, all self-tapping screws installed at the top of the sheet and seals are covered with a ridge strip and are not visible from the outside. The roof ridge strips are fastened to every second profile wave with screws, and the end caps of the round ridge are fastened either with screws or rivets. on hipped roofs, as a rule, it is bifurcated by a special ridge overlay. The fastening of such an overlay is carried out using self-tapping screws.

Rolling snow in unwanted places, such as above the entrance, can be prevented by using the VLEN snow guard (mount included). The snow guard is mounted under the second transverse step of the metal tile, i.e. with a distance of approx. 350 mm from the cornice. Instructions are included with each kit.

Elements of through exits are made of plastic and processed to match the color and pattern of metal tiles, so their installation is not difficult, and they do not spoil the appearance of the roof. .

All gaps between the elements of through outlets and roofing sheets should be sealed.

Sealing tapes

When installing Ruukki metal tiles, sealing tapes are used only under the ridge and at the joints of hipped roofs. If the roof base is already made with waterproofing material, then sealing tapes are required only for internal joints. sealant. Sealing tapes are carefully nailed to the profile with small nails, only then the ridge or joint is covered with planks.

stairs

The ladder is fixed so that the upper step is at the level of the eaves, and the distance from the ground to the first step is about 1000 mm. A minimum distance is left between the ladder and the wall. in 200 mm. Ladders are attached to the wall of the building. The handrails are fixed with the help of special. fasteners.

transition bridges

Transition bridges are attached to the roof, the slope of which is greater than 1: 8. Fastenings for the bridge are fixed with screws through the metal tile to the additional base (during the marking of the crate, take this moment into account). The distance between the fasteners is about 1000 mm.

Roof stairs

The stairs are fastened to the roof with screws through the sheet to the crate. And if required - then to the wall stairs (to the base on the handrails.

Gutter system

When purchasing roofing material, do not forget about downpipes and gutters. Ruukki offers its customers semi-circular and rectangular gutter installations. The installation of the semi-circular gutter is mainly described here. Before fixing the gutters - paint all the cornice exterior boards. Gutters can be mounted parallel to the eaves. When calculating the required number of downpipes and gutters, remember that one downpipe must be installed per 100 square meters of roof area. In the case when the roof slope is more than 30 degrees, it is necessary to provide two downpipes, even if the area is less than 100 square meters. The more complex the roof from an architectural point of view, the more accurately you need to calculate the number of elements of the drainage system.

Hooks for gutters

Hooks for installing the gutter are mounted in such a way that a gap of 25 mm remains between the line continuing the roofing sheet and the upper edge of the gutter. The first and last support hooks should be installed at a distance of approximately 150 mm from the end of the roof eaves. The gutter must be given a slope of 2 to 5 mm per linear meter, using a marking cord. Hooks are recommended to be placed at a distance of 900 mm from each other. In places where the gutters are connected to each other using a corner element, additional hooks should be installed. This will make the gutter structure more rigid.

Gutter fixing

The chute should be installed by pressing the rear edge against the support hook until it stops, after which the front edge of the chute should be put in place. The gutter must be put in place as precisely as possible, since if the gutter is displaced, the polymer coating can be damaged.

Put two gutters butt-to-butt and put on top the connecting element that has a latch. In case of connecting rectangular gutter, insert one gutter into another, connect them with rivets, treat the joint with sealant.

The ends of the gutter are closed with plugs, the plugs are fixed with self-tapping screws or rivets. Treat the joint with sealant. The plug can be attached to the gutter after the gutter is in place.

Water receiver installation

The gutter and the downpipe are usually connected with a water receiver, and in places of a large descent of water - with a funnel. The hole for mounting the water receiver from the gutter into the pipe is easy to cut in the right place. On a semi-circular gutter, a V-shaped cut must be made. On a rectangular gutter, an X-shaped cut is made and the corners of the cut are bent outward of the gutter. The receiver is installed in place of the cut, starting from the leading edge. In places of overlap, silicone is also used along the entire contour of the junction. The receiver must be attached to the chute before the chute is finally placed on the support hooks.

Mounting installation

Ruukki offers 2 types of gutter mounts - drilled holes (for masonry walls) and wall-mounted (for stone and wooden walls). The drain pipe is fixed with special holders to the wall of the building with a maximum distance between the fasteners of 1900 mm. If there is a joint on the pipe, then an additional holder should be left in this place. The distance between the ground and the end of the downpipe should be min. 300 mm or between the blind area and the pipe 150 mm.

The fixing wedge of the pipe holder is installed using an ordinary hammer.

Gutter system maintenance

To ensure a long service life of the gutter, you need to regularly monitor the condition of the gutters and pipes. The gutters, end caps, pipes and their connections must be checked every year. Leaves and other debris accumulated in the gutters should be removed periodically. To prevent leaves from falling into the gutters, we recommend using special protective nets on the gutters. Contaminated areas should be washed with a soft brush and water. Pressure washing can also be used (pressure

bends

The drain pipe can be easily reduced - use a hacksaw for this. The junction of the knee and the downpipe is securely attached to the wall.

According to termoizol.com

And the ridge of the roof are different concepts, although they are often combined into one. When 2 slopes are closed, a roof ridge is formed. It may simply look like a bar laid vertically on racks. The legs of the rafters rest on the timber. Vertical racks, in turn, rest on the ceiling beams.

The ridge device can also be made in another version, when the triangles of the truss system are longitudinally connected to each other. At the highest point on the rafters on both sides of the roof, boards are sewn to each other at an angle and thus form a ridge. - ridge covering of the gap formed at the upper extreme point of the roof during the laying of roofing materials on the roof slopes. The ridge can be made of the same material as the main roofing - slate, metal profile, ceramic tiles, metal tiles, galvanized steel, bituminous tiles, etc.

Scheme of the arrangement of the elements of the ridge: 1 - additional laths of the crate, 2 - hydro-barrier, 3 - metal tile, 4 - wind board, 5 - sealant of the ridge, 6 - plank of the ridge.

Behind the beautiful fabulous name "skate" lies a lot of difficulties and worries. It is good that today manufacturers are putting on sale a sufficient number of special additional elements that have made roofing work on the uppermost section of the roof much easier. Let's take a closer look at how to implement. To install and fasten the ridge strip and the roofing material itself, you will need the following tools:

1. electric saw;
2. electric drill;
3. hacksaw;
4. metal scissors;
5. roulette;
6. screwdriver with a special nozzle for screwing roofing screws.

Sheets of tiles can be cut with a hand saw for metal or with the help of a specialized electromechanical tool designed for cutting materials with a polymer coating.

Types of ridge bar

A roof ridge is more often called a ridge strip with various forms:

• curly;
• semicircular;
• angular;
• embossed;
• conical;
• rib.

The installation of the ridge is carried out at the final stage of the roofing work with the obligatory laying of ventilation material that protects the space under the roof and protects the ridge beam from moisture and precipitation.

As a protective layer, a special sealant is used, or, for example, mineral or glass wool, as well as other materials. Be sure to ensure that the space under the ridge bar is not densely filled in order to avoid the destruction of natural ventilation. Therefore, the ridge bar should never be sealed with mounting foam or other sealed materials. To calculate the material that will be needed for, including its frame, you need to know the height of the ridge. The height of the roof ridge depends on the angle of its inclination. A table with coefficients will help in calculating the height of the ridge if the roof slope and the width of the building are known.

The device of the roof ridge depends on the roofing that will be used during installation. When choosing a roofing material, you need to think right away how the ridge will be mounted. When installing and fastening the ridge, you can not do without a ladder. It is better to install the ridge bar together, in compliance with all precautions and safety precautions, since work on it is quite laborious and dangerous. The device of the ridge begins with the fastening of the extreme elements. Before proceeding with mounting the ridge on the roof, pull the cord to adjust the horizontal laying of all ridge elements. The skates are fixed with self-tapping screws with special washers that prevent the penetration of moisture into the joints.

Types of skates for the roof

For a roof covered with metal tile sheets, the ridges are made from a profiled metal sheet in the form of an outer corner. They are edged on the inside along the edges with pressed folds of 1.5 cm. To complete everything you need for a metal tile, you should take into account all additional elements, accessories and additional details: special fasteners and sealing washers that ensure proper tightness and prevent roof leakage.

Usually additional accessories are selected from the same material as the main roof, in compliance with the color and architectural style. To decorate the ridge on the pitched roofs of various buildings, metal roofing strips are used. If the ridge is properly mounted for the metal tile, it is almost invisible on the roof. Such an element is installed quite often using additional ventilation parts. In their form, the roofs have differences, and therefore the types of additional elements are divided into types:

1. Semicircular. Installed at the joints of the slopes. At the ends it is closed with special plugs that give a finished look.
2. Rectangular. A device of this type is used for pitched roofs of various types from metal tiles. Cheaper than semicircular and do not require plugs. Outwardly, it looks a little worse than the previous one.
3. Narrow decorative. It is used, rather, for an aesthetic appearance, rather than to increase functionality. It is used in the construction of hipped roofs, spiers and arbors.
4. Curved ridge elements with a straight or gable end.
5. T and Y-shaped. Used to fasten straight skates adjacent to each other.
6. End additional elements are used to cover the gables.

Seals for accessories

Sealers for ridges are an important element of the drain for a roof made of metal. Thanks to them, the ingress of precipitation into the roof and attic space is reliably prevented. Those who live in a private house, most likely, experienced water leaks through the roof, as a result of which it became necessary to carry out repair work. Experts believe that such difficulties arise only if a low-quality roofing was laid. But the reason is not only this.

This complexity can be eliminated by reliably sealing the upper edge of the roof, and this must be done with the help of seals. As a result of the use of such an additional element, the interior of the house is isolated, and the service life of the truss system and thermal insulation material will be significantly extended. Based on the foregoing, it is recommended to place seals in front of, as well as between the ridge and the base of the roof. This is especially necessary for hipped roofs and areas where the ridge is mounted diagonally to the roof slope.

Manufacturers today produce 3 types of seals: universal, self-expanding and profile. The profile view is distinguished by the feature that polyethylene foam serves as the basis for it. Universal seals are made from polyurethane foam, which works like a regular filter: air can easily pass through the thickness, but at the same time, the accumulation of excess moisture is prevented. It does not let dirt and snow under the roofing sheets. A variety of self-expanding sealant is made from polyurethane foam impregnated, as a rule, with an acrylic polymer. For easy installation, a self-adhesive area covered with a protective strip is applied to the surface of this type of seal. This type of seal is great for filling any gaps.

The device and fastening of the skate

The ridge installed over the roofing of the metal tile has the only purpose - to close the upper edges of the roofing sheets of the coating and to securely tie the slopes of your roof. It is recommended that the width of the shelves of the corner of the ridge be selected at least 15 cm. Otherwise, strong winds in winter can sweep snow into the attic. In addition, it should be mentioned that ridge rails that do not have a bead are not rigid enough and do not look very good from below after installation. For the length of the roof, first you need to make a calculation and purchase a set of metal skates. In the calculation, do not forget to take into account their mandatory overlap of at least 5 cm on each other. Before starting roofing work, you should prepare a ladder and insurance, as well as all the necessary tools. You will need a construction cord. be carried out in several stages. The area where the top edges of the roof meet should be checked to make sure the ridge axle is level.

Stages of installation work

1. A slight degree of curvature up to 2 cm cannot affect the ridge, however, if deviations are more significant, they will need to be corrected.
2. Even for additional elements with a shelf width of more than 20 cm, one should not forget to lay a light layer of glass wool in the grooves of the ridge. But you can’t overdo it with a sealant, otherwise you can disrupt ventilation.
3. You can use industrial seals, but such materials are quite expensive.
4. With the help of a serving assistant, it is necessary to pick up the ridge corner in two directions.
5. The material of the ridge strip must be laid along the outer edge of the roof ridge flush with the last of the cover sheets. It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess vertical clearance, and be sure to observe the proportions.
6. At the same time, the partner from the opposite side of the roof must ensure that the inner edge does not move out or warp relative to the axis of the additional roof element.
7. When everyone has checked and determined that everything is in place, we fix the outer edge of the ridge to the roof with screws. Now it's time to use the cord. We fasten its ends by any convenient method on the edge - the zero point of the metal ridge. Rising slightly above the cord, you need to examine the line of the skate.
8. Focusing on this line, we align and fix the inner sides of the corners of the ridge bar.
9. Next, we can install the remaining strips, tracking their position relative to the cord.
10. The ridge is attached to the metal tile by screwing in the screws, not rarely, but not thickly. You need to check the corners so that they do not clap. If the gaps remain large, they will make unpleasant sounds in strong winds.

Calculation and accessories

It is necessary to calculate the height of the skate. This can be done when you have already decided on the roof structure, selected the coating material, taking into account climatic conditions, and selected the slope of the roof. This can be done mathematically, for this the width h of the run of the house is divided in half and multiplied by the relative value.

So, for example, with a building width of 6 m, the slope will be 30 degrees.

Then the height of the roof ridge will be, 6/2 * 0.59 = 1.77 m

Since we opted for metal tiles, it would be logical to purchase all roofing material and components from one manufacturer. For installation we need:

• ventilation ridge bar;
• ridge seal;
• ventilation tape;
• lightning rod holder;
• air elements;
• sealant.

Mounting Features

A ridge for a metal tile can be installed only after all the pitched surfaces of the roof have been covered with roofing material. For fixing ridge elements, it is recommended to install a special beam with a cross section of at least 70 * 90 mm. Then attach 2 crate bars on both sides. It is possible to ensure a convenient location during the laying of metal tiles by fixing the brackets to the central beam and hanging special walking bridges on them. With the help of such installations it will be convenient to move around and perform the necessary installation work of the roofing.

We attach a ridge beam to the central bar. To make it more convenient to do this, we recommend rounding the upper edge. Such a measure will help ensure a snug fit of the ridge elements. To prevent the appearance of mold, decay and fungi, it is worth upholstering the ridge beam along with roofing material or a special sealant. Such a measure will significantly extend the life of the entire roof.

Fastening is made directly to the ridge beam with screws. The places that you have protected with roofing material must be painted with oil paint or enamel. 2 skates laid on adjacent slopes will allow to make a coating. Then you should fix the main long skate. The remaining skates should be laid in such a way that their widened ends are located in the direction of the pediment.

For fastening on the flat side of the bar and on the longitudinal axis of the hump of the bar, 2 holes must be drilled so that the holes on the lapels pass through the crests of the waves of the metal tile. The edge of the ridge must be extended outward by at least 2 cm. When laying a flat ridge, it is imperative that all parts overlap more than 10 cm. In many cases, additional installation of a ridge board is required, which is installed above the topmost board of the crate, while leaving a gap between the slopes and ridge boards of 80 mm. Such measures will ensure ventilation under the roof of the metal tile.

1. eaves plank
2. Lathing board
3. Falling beam of the counter-lattice
4. waterproofing film
5. rafter leg
6. Skate
7. Sheets of metal tiles
8. ridge seal
9. ridge cap
10. wind bar
11. Drain pipe
12. pipe holder
13. spillway gutter
14. Gutter holder
15. snow barrier
16. Upper valley
17. Lower valley
18. Wall profile

Sheets are purchased in predetermined sizes, which are determined as a result of measurements of the roof slopes. The main size is of decisive importance - from the eaves to the ridge. When measuring, it must be taken into account that the bottom sheet of the metal tile should have an overhang of about 40 mm. Given the useful width of the sheets of metal, you can calculate their number. With a length of slopes of more than 7 m, it is advisable to break the sheets into two or more pieces.

The roof must be level. Before starting the installation of the roof, it is necessary to check the geometric dimensions of the roof. The diagonals of rectangular slopes should be the same size. With a small difference in size, defects can be corrected using individual elements. The minimum allowable angle when constructing roofs made of metal tiles is 14 degrees. If the angle of inclination of the slope is less than 14 degrees, then the overlap of the sheets of metal tiles is done in 2 waves.

Metal roofing handling and storage

In order to avoid mechanical damage to the surface of the roofing material, loading and unloading of metal tiles must be carried out very carefully. Sheets need to be transferred, holding the edges along the length. The metal chips formed during the installation process must be carefully removed with a soft brush. If the surface of the metal tile is dirty, wash off the dirt with a mild detergent. Do not use abrasive or solvent based cleaners. Do not use a crowbar, scraper or snow shovel to clear snow and ice from metal roofing. If the installation of the roof will not be carried out immediately, it is recommended to lay sheets of metal tiles with wooden slats.

Roof steam and waterproofing

On the cold lower surface of the metal tile, condensation of the moisture contained in the warm air rising inside the premises occurs. This leads to the formation of mold, moistening of the rafters and battens, freezing of the roof and other interior finishes. To deal with such phenomena it is necessary:

• - carry out thermal insulation of the interior from the roof
• - protect the thermal insulation from moisture inside the house with a vapor barrier film
• - protect the thermal insulation from the outside with a vapor-permeable waterproofing film
• - provide good ventilation

The panels of the vapor barrier film are placed under the heat-insulating material and hermetically overlapped with gluing the joints with adhesive tape. For additional protection of thermal insulation from external moisture, a vapor-permeable waterproofing material is laid on the rafters.

A layer of waterproofing film is deployed horizontally from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 150mm and a film sag between the rafters of about 20mm.

The organization of under-roof ventilation is the main condition for ensuring the reliability of the roof and the base under the roof. Ventilation options depend on the design of the roof. For ventilation, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of unhindered passage of air flow from the eaves to the ridge. Ventilation is carried out through:

• - ventilation gap between and ridge
• - the gap between the cornice strip and the metal tile
• - specially left air gaps in the filing of the roof overhang
• - perforations in the ridge seal.

Sheathing and installation

Without fail, the waterproofing material is laid first, and only then the crate is mounted. If it is likely that the ventilation under the tiles will be insufficient, then it is recommended to use a waterproofing material when installing the battens. This is done to prevent condensation from forming on the underside of the roofing sheet. The waterproofing material must absorb moisture from the side of the thermal insulation and prevent the ingress of moisture in the form of condensation that forms on the underside of the roofing due to atmospheric fluctuations.

Falling bars 30 * 50mm are nailed along the rafters onto the laid waterproofing material, and antiseptic battens 32 * 100mm are nailed to them with a step between them of 350mm, corresponding to the step of the metal tile (350mm for a profile like "Monterrey" or "Joker"). The bottom board of the batten should be about 18mm thicker, and the distance between the beginning of the first and the middle of the second batten board should be 300mm. If the distance between the rafters is more than 1000mm, the batten boards must be taken thicker. When installing the crate, it is necessary to provide fasteners for the passage elements (ventilation pipes, etc.).

In order for the ridge bar to be well fixed, two additional boards are nailed under it on both sides.

Before installing the metal tile, a cornice strip is nailed along the roof eaves.

eaves plank

The eaves strip must be fastened in front of the roofing sheets. The overlap is 100mm. The cornice strip is fixed with galvanized nails at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The sheet is cut with scissors for metal.
Valleys are installed in appropriate places.
The metal tile is attached to the boards of the crate with self-tapping screws 30-40 mm long, for screwing which you need to have a drill with a reverser, a brace or other similar tool, as well as an 8 mm socket head. The installation of metal tiles begins from the lower corner of the roof: two sheets are laid, fixed together with self-tapping screws, the resulting even lower edge is aligned strictly along the eaves with an overhang of about 40 mm, after which the sheets are finally fixed. Alternatively, the following fastening method is recommended: fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern through the wave. The junction of the upper and lower sheets is fixed with self-tapping screws through the wave.

Sheets of metal tiles are fastened with self-tapping screws with a sealing washer to the deflection of the wave, under the transverse step of the profile, perpendicular to the crate. The consumption of self-tapping screws is approximately 6-8pcs. per 1 sq.m. Sheets are fastened as shown in the figure.

Side overlap

Overlapping is usually done at the top of the profile. The attachment point of the self-tapping screw is slightly shifted from the center of the groove towards the overlap, which helps to increase the pressure of the upper sheet on the lower one.

Number of screws per covered surface width

• - at the ridge, 1 screw in every second groove
• - 2nd, 4th, etc. purlins, 1 screw/sheet
• - 1st, 3rd, etc. purlins, 2 screws/sheet
• - at the eaves and ceilings, 1 screw in each profile groove

After installing the sheets, a sealant is placed between the ridge and the metal tile, then the ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws 4.8 * 80-90 through the wave. The ends of the metal-tiled ridge are closed with plugs on self-tapping screws. At the installation sites of the valleys, the lower and upper valleys are installed. At the ends of the roof there are wind strips, which are fastened with self-tapping screws.

If at the end of the roof the cut of the metal tile fell on the lower bend of the profile wave, then the edge of the sheet must be bent by about 30 mm to prevent the ingress of water and snow. In order to prevent snow from rolling over the entrance to the building at a distance of about 650 mm from the eaves, a snow barrier is attached with ridge screws.

How to cut a profile

Profiles can be cut with: electric nibblers, electric jigsaws, carbide-toothed circular saws, metal shears, fine-toothed hacksaws. Cutting with an abrasive wheel is prohibited, as hot chips falling on the coating burn through it and this leads to accelerated corrosion.

How to fix the cornice

The cornice is attached along the lower edge of the slope before laying the sheets of metal. The overlap is 100mm. The cornice is fixed to the crate with galvanized nails with a pitch of 300 mm. In the event that an organized drain from the roof is provided, it is necessary to first install the gutter holders.

Wall profile

At the joints of metal tiles with vertical surfaces (walls, pipes, etc.), fix the junction strips using self-tapping screws. A self-adhesive sealant is used between the metal tile sheet and the junction bar. The overlap of the planks is 10 cm long. For additional sealing of the junction strips to the wall, use silicone sealant.

Chimney connection options

The lining of the chimney is made using a smooth sheet of the same color as the metal tile (as shown in the figure). For additional waterproofing of junctions, use a self-adhesive tape (eg Ecobit).

Ridge bar attachment

For reliable fastening of the ridge bar, two additional boards need to be nailed under it.

The ridge strip is mounted only after the complete installation and fastening of all roofing sheets. Do not forget to fasten the sealing tape under the ridge. All screws and sealing tape must be covered with a ridge strip. The ridge bar is attached to every second profile wave with screws, and the ends are attached to the ridge either with screws or rivets.

Installation of roof breaks using a sealant

On external breaks, a cornice strip is used. Glue a sealant between the top sheet and the cornice strip.

On internal kinks, an abutment bar is used. Glue a sealant between the bottom sheet and the abutment strip.

Installation of snow retainers

installed to prevent snow from falling in undesirable places, for example, above the entrance, as well as to protect gutters. Install the snow retention bar under the second transverse step of the metal tile. Between the upper edge of the snow retainer and the metal tile sheet, at the top of each profile wave, attach a support bar. To fasten the snow retainer directly to the crate, use long self-tapping screws. Fasten the lower edge of the snow retainer at the top of every second wave. In addition to the snow retention bar described above, it is possible to use a tubular snow retainer, which is mounted according to the instructions included in the kit.

Use of sealing tape

When sealing tapes are usually used only under the ridge and at the joints of tent-shaped roofs. If the base of the roof is already made with waterproofing material, then no sealing tapes are required, except for internal joints. In places of overlaps and through holes, a sealant (silicone mass) is used for sealing. Sealing tapes are carefully nailed to the profile with small nails, and only after that the ridge or joint is covered with a plank.

How to walk on the roof

When walking on a metal tile, it is necessary to use shoes with soft soles. Step only into the deflection of the wave, in places where there are laths of the crate under the profile. Don't step on the crest of the wave!