The costs of housing and communal services are growing several times a year, so it is logical to think about the possibilities of saving energy resources. You can use less water with simple savers that are worn directly on the faucet. Such devices are sold in plumbing stores and online stores, they are produced mainly in China. However, you can make an aerator to save water with your own hands. Let's take a look at how this device works and whether it really helps to reduce costs.

How does it work

The economizer is a simple device that is a water sprayer. According to the manufacturers, it mixes water with air, which gives a higher pressure without additional opening of the tap. There are two types of such devices:

• screen with disk;
• slotted.

A screen aerator is installed in almost every new faucet; it is nothing more than a regular mesh. It consists of a body into which a brass membrane (aka a screen) is inserted, followed by a disk with holes and a mounting washer. Such a device is inserted directly into the tap, it is not visible to the naked eye, as it is hidden inside.

Slotted savers are hung on the faucet or faucet itself, so they are not very convenient to use if the distance from the sink to the faucet is small. The structure of the device is also quite simple. A water jet diluent with holes is inserted into the outer casing, then an element for adjusting the angle of the jet, the base of the aerator and the slotted disk itself.

Additional features

In addition to the fact that the economizer allows, according to manufacturers, to reduce water costs by up to 60%, it is also endowed with other abilities. Most often, advertising claims disinfection of the flowing jet with ions, its filtration and enrichment with valuable properties. However, the nozzle is made of base metal, which is not able to make the water either cleaner or healthier. It also contains plastic particles, the healing properties of which are also not scientifically proven.

However, the device also has one pleasant nuance: by shifting the slotted aerator, you can make a regular jet or atomized one.

The device can stay in two positions alternately, so washing dishes or brushing your teeth will be doubly fun. There are also more expensive backlit options. The water will be red or blue, depending on whether it is hot or cold. However, this function of the aerator does not affect in any way.

How to do it yourself

You can buy an aerator for about 800-1300 rubles. However, its design is quite simple, so it will not be difficult to make a water saver with your own hands. For this we need the following materials:

Unscrew the nozzle and remove the brass grate from it. A plastic gasket will be installed in its place. If you managed to find just a piece of plastic, you need to carefully cut it out, observing the dimensions of the previous grid, then draw a grid and make holes.

After the replacement of the elements is done, we assemble the nozzle again and attach it to the crane. Such a device will perform the same functions as a store aerator, but, unlike it, it will really help save money.

Advantages of self-production

A store aerator is expensive, but its real price is approximately 50-100 rubles, depending on the design. However, manufacturers promise that their know-how pays off in just a couple of months or even one. This is a false statement, which we will now prove.

Attention! All calculations are approximate and may differ from actual figures.

The average cost of an aerator is 1300 rubles. We take 2 pieces, since we are immediately offered to buy nozzles for all the taps in the house, it turns out 2600 rubles. If the price of 1 cubic meter of cold water is 30 rubles, then you need to use as many as 86 cubic meters per month to get the cost of nozzles. For a more detailed understanding of this figure, we translate it into the number of full baths. One standard bath contains approximately 200 liters of water, 430 baths are obtained per month, which is 14 baths a day or every half an hour a day.

With such simple calculations, it is clear that it will be unrealistic to “recapture” the cost of economizers in one or even two months. Therefore, if you want to save money, you can make your own aerator.

Imaginary benefit

Water dividers in no way help to really save money, since they are not able to change the composition of the water. All the miraculous properties that advertisers endowed with such devices are speculation. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the main water costs of the average family are the use of a shower and a drain tank, while bathrooms are rarely used. Savers cannot be physically installed on these plumbing elements, therefore, theoretically, they are able to reduce the cost of not all the water used, but only that which passes through the nozzles.

To reduce water consumption on a principle similar to aerators, you need to do one simple thing - reduce the pressure in the tap. Household tasks such as washing dishes or taking a shower have not been proven to be adversely affected by this method of reducing water use.

Summing up

The Chinese market offers us water-saving aerators that can be made at home without much time and money. If you want to test the theory about reducing water use, it is better to make the device yourself. It will clearly show that the only way to reduce the cost of housing and communal services is through rational consumption.

I decided to make some distilled water here and, accordingly, I needed to connect the Liebig refrigerator (distiller) to the water supply. I began to think about how to connect the hose to the faucet.

Standard solutions in the form of ready-made adapters for a hose faucet cost some absolutely unimaginable money (), so I began to think about how to get by with little bloodshed.

In general, the solution turned out to be primitive: the easiest way to connect a hose to a faucet is to use an aerator:

The fact is that the thread on the watering can of the mixer is very specific (diameter 22 mm, step 1 mm) and no ready-made plumbing bells and whistles are suitable for it. Except for the aerator, of course.

Unscrew it and shake out all the insides. We only need the metal shell itself:

By the way, plastic aerators are completely unsuitable because of their fragility and fragility. Need metal.

We go to the nearest market, where they sell all kinds of plumbing and buy there a fitting of the desired diameter (for the hose we have) with a 1/2 inch female thread. I bought for 9mm:

We clamp the fitting into the drill, check that there are no beats during rotation:

We take a grinder with a cutting wheel and separate the excess:

It should turn out something like this:

Then we change the cutting wheel on the grinder to the petal one:

and gently grind to get a flat plane:

Then, with the same petal circle, we turn the hexagon into a circle and reduce its diameter until our modernized fitting begins to enter the aerator body. This must be done very slowly and carefully, the main thing is not to miss the moment. We periodically stop and check whether it is included or not:

As soon as the fitting began to pass freely through the thread and abut against the internal narrowing of the aerator body, then our nozzle on the hose faucet is ready. It remains only to find a 1/2" silicone gasket (they are like dirt everywhere).

So, here is the answer to the question of how to connect the hose to the mixer:

Everything is assembled in this order:

I checked at work: nothing leaks anywhere, everything is reliable and aesthetically pleasing.

In total, our faucet nozzle for the hose cost 45 rubles (brass fitting), 5 rubles for the gasket and about 40 minutes of time, including cleaning the room.

And as a bonus, we also have a half-inch brass nut left:

I hope my experience was useful to you and you learned another way to connect a hose to a kitchen faucet.

By the way, the aerator after such use will not suffer at all. It can be reassembled and screwed into place. As if nothing had happened!

Well, if you don’t have the opportunity to carve a fitting, for example, you don’t have a suitable tool, then an adapter for a hose faucet can be made even easier. How? Watch the video!

That's all. Thank you for your attention!

Modern industry produces a wide variety of taps and valves for regulating the flow of fluid. There is a suitable one for every application. However, the inquisitive minds of home craftsmen do not leave attempts to develop and implement their own designs. Sometimes this is caused by a desire to save money, but more often, by the desire to test one's own strengths as a designer, machine builder, mechanic and electrical engineer.

Types of cranes

Trying to repeat the design of a conventional shut-off valve does not make practical and economic sense if the home workshop is not equipped with high-precision milling, turning and drilling machines. The price of industrial designs in mass production is affordable even for the most modest budget. Another thing is technically complex valves for special applications, such as:

• ball with electric drive;
• needle;
• non-freezing;
• with instantaneous water heater;

Do-it-yourself options for their implementation will be discussed below.

Ball with electric drive,

The motorized valve can be used in modern "smart" plumbing, heating and air conditioning systems created by home craftsmen with minimal use of purchased components. In addition to testing your strength, there will also be a significant monetary benefit - a purchased device with an electric drive costs from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

For a do-it-yourself ball valve with an installed electric drive, you will need the following materials and components:

• ball valve 3/4″;

Figure 1: 3/4 valve

• power window drive for Lada 1117, 2123 left LSA;

Figure 2: Electric power window

• automotive five-contact relays - 2 pcs.;
• limit microswitches - 2 pcs.;
• sheet metal 1 mm thick (for the frame and clamps);
• steel tube 10 mm - trimmings (for bushings);
• square profile 10 * 10 mm - 10 cm;
• metal strip 4 mm thick - 10 * 1 cm;
• spring with a diameter of 12 mm;
• bolt М8*45 with nut and washers - 2 pcs.

All electrical equipment is 12 volts. Of the tools you need:

• drill;
• metal scissors;
• workbench with vise;
• welding machine;
• hand tool (hammer, screwdriver, wrenches, pliers, etc.)

The created mechanism should allow you to control the electric crane both with the help of a drive and manually. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

• Bend the U-shaped frame from a sheet of metal.
• From the tube segments, make bushings for attaching the power window drive to the frame.
• Fasten the drive.
• Fasten the bed to the branch pipes coming out of the ball valve using clamps.
• From a square profile, cut out a nozzle for the gearbox axle.
• Weld a strip to it.
• From the strip and the handle, assemble the lever mechanism of the drive by springing it. The spring presses the levers together, if necessary, they can be quickly disconnected without the use of tools and the crane can be operated manually.
• Hinge the strip to the handle with a bolt and nut. Lock the nut.
• Attach the square profile to the power window gear shaft.

Next, you should test the kinematics by applying voltage to the electric motor. You can use a car battery or power supply with at least 50 watts. The lever transmission should move smoothly, without jerks and distortions. If necessary, correct the touching parts with a file.

Now comes the turn of the electrical part of the drive.

• In the extreme positions of the handle, mount the limit microswitches.
• They should be connected in such a way that they open the control circuit of the relay through which the engine is turned on, upon reaching the extreme position "Open" or "Closed".

Such a drive can be connected to the control circuits of the smart home system. A do-it-yourself electric water faucet will be cost-effective if the power window drive is inexpensive. A new one costs up to 1 thousand rubles, and can eat up half of the savings.

Instead of a power window drive, you can use any other electric drive,

Figure 3: Motorized Crane

close in power and torque.

Needle

A needle valve with a large adjustment range can be assembled from salvaged materials at low cost. To make it you will need:

• Syringe plastic disposable 2 ml.
• Insulin syringe 1 ml.
• Bearing ball - 2 pcs.
• Springs - 2 pcs.
• Nut and adjusting screw.
• Epoxy adhesive.
• Fasteners.
• Plastic ties - 2 pcs.

Figure 4: Valve Schematic

The diagram shows:

• Syringes are black.
• Balls are blue.
• Springs are green.
• Stock is red.
• The direction of fluid movement is indicated by green arrows.

To make a crane, you should:

• Choose balls according to diameter. The large one should be slightly smaller than the internal size of the 2 ml syringe, the small one should be 2 times smaller.
• Select spring force. The compression force of a large spring is about twice that of a small one.
• Drill a hole in a large syringe near the spout, equal to the inner diameter of the insulin. Pull the insulin syringe by the ears with ties, wrap it with synthetic threads and glue it.
• Insert the small ball and the smaller spring into the large syringe.
• Cut off the piston rod.
• Insert the large spring and the second ball.
• Insert adjusting screw.
• Tighten the nut with screws to the ears.

Figure 5: Finished construction

The incoming liquid will tend to push the ball away from the inlet, the spring will push it back the stronger, the more the adjusting screw is turned. If the screw is completely turned out, the flow will pass freely, if it is completely twisted, the flow will be blocked.

Antifreeze faucet

Those who need to use the water supply on the site in the winter are faced with the problem of freezing the street tap. With large temperature fluctuations, the water inside the fittings and pipes turns into ice and can break them.

There are several ways to organize such a water supply:

• Installing a purchased non-freezing tap. In it, the valve plate is located inside the warm contour of the walls. It is always installed with a slope towards the street. Then, after closing the valve, the water remaining in the pipe flows down and does not freeze in the pipe. The devices are available in different lengths, which allows you to install them in walls of various thicknesses.

Figure 6: Anti-freeze valve

• A homemade version of such a device is a conventional poppet faucet mounted on a supply inside a warm wall contour. Its stem is extended by a rod passing through the wall in the tube. Outside, a handle is fixed on the bar. The branch pipe must also be installed with a slope towards the street. This method requires an extra hole in the wall, but is several times cheaper. Of course, you will have to periodically chip off the ice that forms under the spout.

Figure 7: Homemade anti-freeze valve

• A faucet installed on an underground insulated water supply. In this case, it is necessary to have a drainage into which the water remaining after closing the tap in the vertical pipe will drain. It is used in the design, installed in an insulated pit.

Figure 8: Three way valve

• The valve is controlled from the street through a stem extension. In the working position, it turns on the water supply to the vertical pipe, at the end of which a spout is mounted. As soon as the water is collected, the tap is closed, the supply stops, and the water remaining in the pipe through the third hole of the tap is drained into the drain.

Sensory

It is unlikely that a home master will be able to make a full-fledged touch tap. The main problem will be in the placement and waterproofing of the infrared proximity sensor. A rather interesting design that allows you to turn the water on and off with busy hands can be assembled using

• Solenoid valve from a washing machine for 220 v - 2 pcs.
• Fitting 10mm * 1/2 external thread -2 pcs.
• Fittings ¾ to ½ int. thread - 2 pcs.
• Call button for surface mounting.
• Wires.

The order of installation and configuration is as follows:

• The valves are mounted in the break of the hot and cold water line, directly in front of the mixer.
• Their drive is connected via a foot switch.
• During pre-setting, with the solenoid valves open, set the desired temperature and water flow rate and leave the mixer valve in this position.
• If you need to turn on the water, just press the bell button - the valves will work, and water will flow from the tap.

When water is no longer needed, it is enough to release the key, and the springs will return the valves to the closed state. Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing of wires and connections.

Instantaneous water heater on the faucet

Purchased instantaneous electric water heaters have a compact design and are equipped with a temperature control system, spout and aerator. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make such a nozzle on a crane with your own hands in a home workshop. The main problem lies in the accuracy of processing parts and ensuring the electrical safety of the device. However, homemade products have developed a simple and quite effective design that allows you to do without complex and expensive components. It works by heating a coil heat exchanger on a gas or electric burner. For the manufacture of enough average plumbing skills.

From materials and tools you will need:

• Copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm - 1 meter
• Rubber or plastic hoses, heat-resistant - 2 distances from the burner to the sink +1 m
• 2 fittings from the inner diameter of the hoses to ½
• Crane adapter for eurocube
• 4 clamps
• Threaded arms and nuts for them - 2 pcs.
• Construction knife, screwdriver, gas wrench

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• Wind a spiral from the tube in the shape of a burner. Cone the spiral to make the most of the heat from the burner. The straight sections of the inlet and outlet pipe should extend 20-30 cm beyond the plate panel.
• Fasten the spiral to the plate grate. Put the hoses on the nozzles and secure them with clamps.
• Connect one fitting to the cold water supply (pipe or canister tap), the other to the mixer.
• Put the free ends of the hoses on the fittings and also secure with clamps. Cold water should flow to the lower pipe of the spiral.

Figure 9: Homemade instantaneous water heater

When such a heater is in operation, it must not be left unattended for a minute.

Today, there is a lot of talk about savings in the field of electricity consumption, traffic lights, floors.

To save electricity, the industry produces energy-saving light bulbs. You can save electricity and gas yourself without using them uncontrollably.

Saving water with a faucet with a nozzle

Water is more difficult.

But we often spend too much. And this, oddly enough, contributes to the industry. The manufactured designs of taps can regulate the supply of cold and hot water, mix water, and regulate its pressure. But the design of the taps does not allow serving it as needed in portions (with the exception of taps with touch sensors, which are inaccessible to many).

When washing or otherwise, the water flows continuously. At one time, washstands were widely used at home, in transport, in dachas. Now this device can serve as a retro. But the principle of its work allows you to save water when it needs to be used in portions.

So you have to turn on your ingenuity in order to build a washstand from the existing design of a modern tap.

I believe that if the industry produced such cranes, they would look more aesthetically pleasing, and would be oversized in terms of volume, and would fulfill their purpose.

The old design of the washstand, which can be combined with a modern faucet.

Crane design

Of all the designs of commercially available water taps, two varieties are predominantly found (Fig. 1.2).

But they all have a detail that is the same in design and size. Ego is the spout of a water tap (Fig. 3). Despite its small size, it performs various functions: fine filtering, medium, coarse. Its design allows you to additionally mix cold and hot water, saturate it with air and serves as a watering can.

The proposed design of the nozzle-washing station at the point of its connection to the gander can be made with and without the use of a spout. In the second case, it would be necessary to install a filter and a mixer with air. Hollowly, I propose the design of a washstand nozzle using a spout.

The body and cone of the fixture must be ordered for manufacturing on a lathe (I assure you that the cost incurred will pay off pretty quickly).

Here is the sequence of steps:

1. Unscrew the spout from the tap using the two flats at the bottom of it.

2. Carefully familiarize yourself with the design of the spout (Fig. 2) and disassemble it.

3. Use a soft brush to clean the filters and other parts of the spout with soapy water.

4. Assemble the filter parts without inserting them into the spout body.

5. Wrap the parts with a damp cloth and keep intact until assembly.

6. Refine the spout with M24 × 1.0 mm thread (Fig. 5).

7. Make the body of the washstand according to the dimensions shown in fig. 4.

8. Install the locking bracket on the housing.

9. Make a cone according to the dimensions given in fig. 6.

10. Make a nipple by cutting a thread Mb mm on both sides of the pin 60 ... 70 mm.

11. Connect the cone to the pin.

12. Insert the cone into the hole with a diameter of 20 mm with the pin down.

13. Rub the cone into the cone hole.

14. Make a button with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of 10 mm.

15. Clean the protruding part of the pin.

16. Assemble the spout according to fig. 2.

17. Connect the spout to the gander of the crane.

18. Connect the washstand to the spout.

Now it remains to test the device in operation and eliminate possible shortcomings.

The nozzle is used when a portioned supply of water is required. But you need to ensure a constant supply. Installing and removing the nozzle, you can break its threaded connection. Therefore, a latch is provided on the body, which, holding the cone in the upper position by the putter, allows water to be supplied continuously.

Do-it-yourself economical \ economical crane - drawings

Rice. 1, General view of water mixer taps: 1 - sink; 2 - mixer; 3 - mixer handle; 4 - gander; 5 - spout

Rice. 2. General arrangement of the faucet spout: 1 - body; 2 - thin filter; 3 - medium filter;
4 - filter watering can; 5 - flow slot; 6 - gasket; 7 - spacer legs

Rice. 3. The general arrangement of the nozzle-washstand: 1 - body; 2 - cone; 3 - nipple; 4 - nipple button; 5 - gasket; 6 - gander crane; 7 - spout of the crane; 8 - latch

Rice. 4. The body of the washstand. Material - stainless steel, brass. Sharp edges must be blunted

Rice. 5. Refinement of the faucet spout

Rice. 6. Cone washstand.
The cone should be lapped along the structural hole in the body. Threaded hole for attaching the nipple

S. P. Prokhorov, Dnepropetrovsk

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Today I want to tell you about how you can make a homemade water faucet ...

To begin with, I bring to your attention a video of our homemade products:

In this article, I want to tell you about how you can make a homemade water faucet at home without much effort using improvised means ... This device can be used in the country or in the garage ... A fairly convenient device to, for example, wash your hands or rinse some small container ...

So, let's begin...

In order to make this water faucet we need the following:
- a canister or an unnecessary container (preferably at least 5 liters);
- a small piece of hose;
- syringe;
- drill and drill...

So, first, carefully cut off the top of the syringe as shown in the photo ...

Next, using a drill and a small drill, we make 3-4 holes along the entire syringe ...

Now, also using a drill and drills, we make a hole at the bottom of our canister or another container of your choice ... The diameter of the hole should match the diameter of the hose ... Next, carefully insert a piece of the hose into the hole in the canister ... Make sure that everything is hermetically...

Now we insert a syringe into the hose and also make sure that everything is tight ...

Well, that's it and that's it!!! Our device is ready! Now we pour water into the canister, substitute the bowl and see what we got ...

The piston in the syringe regulates the water supply: if you pull the piston slightly, then water will pour out of one hole ...

If you pull it out a little more, then water will flow from two holes at the same time ...

And so, as you stick out the syringe plunger, you will regulate the water supply, that is, if the plunger is pulled out all the way, then the water will "go" from four holes in the syringe barrel, which we did, and if piston "shove back", then the water will stop "going" at all ...