Timing of spraying from pests. Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases: spraying, timing, schedule, preparations. How to treat fruit trees and shrubs in early spring before and after bud break, after flowering? Why handle garden weight

Experts recommend protective spraying in the fall. This day should be without rain, dry and frost-free. At a time when trees bloom, bear fruit and ripen, they do not need protection from various small pests. How and what to spray the garden in the fall, you can learn from this article.

Preparing plants for processing

In winter, insects are looking for a warm place to sit out the cold season there. Such places are fallen leaves, bark and soil. As a result, spraying of fruit trees should be carried out precisely in the autumn period.

Such an action will help rid the trees of scab, spotting, putrefactive diseases and other misfortunes. Due to the fact that under the bark of plants that are not processed, bacteria multiply much faster, the vegetative process slows down.

After winter, the plants slowly "wake up" and their processing matters a lot autumn. Before spraying the trees in the fall, they need to be prepared.

Preparation and processing is carried out in several stages and depends on the age of the seedlings:

1. If the plants are more than six years old, then first you need to remove the old bark and lichen with a metal brush. This is done so that pathogens of various diseases do not have the opportunity to hide.
2. As soon as everything was removed from the trees, spraying is carried out. The very last spraying should be done after all the leaves have fallen off. You can also do this after the first frost. First you need to remove all the leaves, branches and weeds that have fallen.

How to process garden trees

How to spray fruit trees in the fall? Fruit garden plants are best protected by solutions of urea, iron or copper sulphate. Each solution is aimed at a specific type of threat.

And therefore, spraying plants can not be carried out with only one preparation. The tool is selected depending on what result is needed. Experts recommend doing this procedure at the end of October.

inkstone

Fruit trees, such as apple trees, plums, cherries and peaches, are treated and fed with this preparation. After plant treatment get a lot of useful trace elements and iron. Also, after the procedure, oxidative processes improve.

If it is not enough, then the quantity and quality of the crop decreases. Preparing a solution of iron sulphate is easy. It is necessary to mix one kg of dry powder with 15 liters of water.

blue vitriol

If you do not know what trees are sprayed with in the fall, use copper sulfate. This drug, which has a fungicide in its composition, does not allow putrefactive diseases, powdery mildew, scab and spotting to appear.

Plums this drug protects against moniliosis, coccomycosis, clasterosporosis and curly. For pears and apple trees, it provides a protective reaction against monioiosis, scab and phyllosticosis.

If the trees in the garden are not older than six years, then use up to two liters of copper sulfate solution per seedling. If the plant is older, then use up to ten liters.

It is best to spray fruit trees in the garden in the morning or evening. The temperature should be from +5 to +30 degrees, and it is also not desirable that there be wind.

Processing the garden with urea

It is recommended to spray urea on plants in the garden as the first or last step in preparing for winter. The first spraying should be done with a high concentration of the product. Such an action kills all pest larvae.

Saplings in the garden are processed in the fall after half of the leaves have fallen off. To do this, make a solution - 10 liters of water and 500 g of urea. When all the foliage has fallen on the trees, the solution is made more concentrated by 7%.

Need to process trunks, branches and ground. This is an excellent tree protection and fertilizer. Just do not overdo it with the preparation of the solution, if it is too concentrated, then the leaves will get burned and fall off earlier than necessary.

As a result, the intake of nutrients will decrease and the frost resistance of fruit trees will decrease.

The nuances of autumn garden processing

Plants in the garden are sprayed using a manual or mechanized apparatus. This device evenly sprays the drug and protects the person from contact with the latter. Regardless of what principle the device has, they all have spray pump.

Mechanical models differ from manual models in terms of ease of use and difference in cost. Mechanical - much more convenient, but more expensive. Processing trees with a manual machine requires periodic pumping.

When there are wounds and cracks on the trees, then in addition to lime, the following means must also be used:

• cow dung;
• finely chopped straw.

There is another way to protect trees - garden var. You can make it yourself or buy it in a store. To prepare, you need 100 g of rosin and 200 g of beeswax.

These products must be melted separately, then mixed together and add 100 g of unsalted fat to the mixture. Before filling cracks, garden pitch must be heated.

In the southern regions, trees need to be cut in autumn, and in the northern regions, such an action will lead to the freezing of the plant.

The need for autumn processing

Treating the garden from pests and diseases in the fall is extremely important.

There are several reasons for this:

• autumn gardening is a good preventive procedure, reducing the number of wintering pathogens;
• autumn heat and humid air stimulate the reproduction of microbes and bacteria. at this time they penetrate the sap flow system and spread throughout the tree;
• autumn processing of the garden is recommended at the beginning of leaf fall, and during this period the main work has already been completed, the gardener has more free time;
• there is still a lot of time before the fruit ripens and you can apply more concentrated and effective mixtures;
• special attention should be paid to the treatment of young trees. Their immune system is not yet strong and untreated trees may not survive until spring;
• autumn treatment with increased concentrations of drugs destroys most of the insects settled for the winter.

Processing time

Under the trees, the soil is not yet covered with fallen leaves and it also needs to be treated with a prepared pesticide. Thus, we will destroy the pests that have gone to winter in the soil and are waiting for warming from the foliage.

Tree preparation

Beginning in mid-autumn, trees begin to prepare for winter. It is possible to increase the winter hardiness of trees by applying phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

The bases of the skeletal branches and the trunk of the tree are cleaned of dead bark and pests hiding in its cracks. At the same time, the trunks and bases of the branches are covered with a protective layer of garden whitewash. The trunks of young trees are tied with roofing material, covering material or nylon tights.

How to spray fruit trees?

For spraying the garden in the autumn, you can use:

inkstone

Trees are treated with a solution of iron sulphate either before the start of the growing season, or with the onset of leaf fall. Dissolved in water, this powder helps fight diseases of pome and stone fruit trees, and berry bushes. The action of iron sulphate is detrimental to moniliosis, spotting, and scab.

For processing the garden, a 5-7% solution of the substance is used. To prepare the working fluid, you must:

• 500-700 g of powder is dissolved in a small amount of warm water;
• after complete dissolution, the volume of liquid is adjusted to 10 l;
• strained mixture is poured into a sprayer;
• set up a very fine spray;
• evenly cover the leaves and branches with a solution, it’s not scary if some of the liquid gets on the ground. It also needs to be sprayed.

blue vitriol

Wasp copper sulfate or copper sulfate is a recognized fungicide that helps in the fight against spotting, rot, scab, coccomycosis, lichens.

The working solution of copper sulphate for garden treatment should have a concentration of 3-5%. It is prepared in the same way as iron sulphate, only 300-500 g of powder is taken for the same amount of water. Prepare and use in the same way.

Urea or urea

The use of urea or carbamide for fall gardening involves tilling the trees and the soil underneath. The term for such processing is the beginning of leaf fall. A strong solution of urea is able to burn out all wintering forms of pests and diseases.

30="">Drug 30v

Insect-acaricide "Preparation 30V" destroys wintering pests in the garden and on berry bushes: scale insects, whiteflies, leafworms, aphids, mites, moths.

Preparation 30V

The drug disrupts the air and water balance of insects, leading them to death. Pests cannot adapt to the action of the drug, it can be used annually. The advantages of the product include environmental safety, high efficiency, excellent adhesion, the ability to use the entire season from spring to autumn. The drug has a contact effect, it must be applied without leaving untreated areas.

The drug is very easy to breed. It is simply dissolved in water and used within the next 2 hours after dilution.

Treatments are carried out at an outdoor temperature above +4°C.

The concentration of the solution for the treatment of trees and shrubs is 3-4%.

The protective effect of the drug lasts from 5 to 10 days. You can harvest after processing after 20 days.

Diesel fuel or diesel fuel (DT)

Solar oil is an oily liquid. After treating the tree with such a liquid, an oil film forms on the surface of the bark, which destroys pests by blocking their respiratory openings.

Diesel fuel, being the result of oil refining, is not considered an environmentally friendly substance, and therefore it is dangerous to use it in the spring. It is best to use such a tool in the fall, by the time of harvest it will completely disintegrate and will not remain in ripened fruits.

Successful recipes for the use of diesel fuel:

• 1 part of ferrous sulfate is dissolved in 10 parts of water;
• add 10 parts of lime milk 10% concentration;
• 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
• the resulting mixture is used to process plantings after leaf fall.

Another successful recipe:

• 5 parts of clay are dissolved in 5 parts of water;
• 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
• plantings are treated with the resulting emulsion.

Another solution that is effective in pest control:

• grind 1 part of laundry soap;
• the chips are dissolved in 9 parts of water;
• 10 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting solution;
• we process the garden with the resulting emulsion.

Using diesel fuel, you need to remember that its density and water are very different, and you won’t be able to get a complete solution. When mixing water and diesel fuel, an emulsion is formed, which is very quickly divided into two fractions. Keeping this in mind, when working with such a mixture, you need to periodically shake the solution.

Bordeaux liquid

Bordeaux liquid is a mixture of copper sulfate and lime in a 1: 1 ratio. This mixture destroys foci of diseases (moniliosis, spotting, rot and fungal diseases, scab), and also destroys wintering forms of insects.

To prepare Bordeaux liquid, you will need lime, blue vitriol, water, any non-metallic utensils and litmus paper:

• in a non-metallic container, 1 kg of copper sulfate is diluted in a small amount of hot water and brought to 50 liters;
• in another container, 1 kg of quicklime is quenched and the solution is diluted to 50 liters, filtered;
• immediately before use, both solutions are combined - a solution of copper sulphate is added to the milk of lime (but not vice versa).
• the resulting mixture is checked with litmus paper - the reaction of the solution should be neutral;
• for better adhesion of the solution per 100 liters of liquid, add 100 g of sugar or 5 cups of paste;
• Ready mixture can be purchased at a garden store.

Bordeaux mixture should be used in warm, dry, calm weather. Up to 10 liters are used per tree.

Bishal

Autumn and early spring processing of fruit trees can be carried out using the Bishal preparation. This is a solution of the natural remedy bischofite. It contains almost all microelements necessary for plants.

Depending on the concentration, trees can be treated with this solution before bud break or before leaf fall, a garden can be cultivated on a green leaf, and can be used to soak seeds.

Autumn treatment of the garden with a solution of bishali will destroy pests prepared for wintering, bacterial, viral and fungal infections.

For autumn processing, bischal is bred in a ratio of 1:10.

Bishal, like urea, burns out all the infection that remains in the cracks of the bark, but unlike urea, it contains many essential trace elements.

The advantages of bishali include the absence of a waiting period after processing the garden.

Soap copper emulsion

Another tool for autumn garden processing is a soap-copper emulsion. The recipe for its preparation is very simple:

• 10 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 0.5 l of water;
• separately, 100 g of planed laundry soap is diluted in warm water;
• a solution of soap is added to the solution of copper sulfate, the volume of the mixture is adjusted to 10 l;
• if the water is hard (flakes appear in the solution), you can add 50 g of soda ash.

With a high number of wintering pests or a strong infection with an infection, the doses of soap and copper sulfate are increased by 2-3 times.

Adding an article to a new collection

In autumn, in addition to harvesting, summer residents have another important task - preparing the garden for winter. In order to enjoy the fruits again next year, it is important to properly treat the plants and the soil under them from diseases and pests.

Autumn processing of the garden includes spraying the crowns of bushes and trees with insecticides (Aktara, Inta-Vir) and fungicides, digging the soil, fertilizing and protecting plants from rodents. With the onset of cold weather, heat-loving crops are additionally covered with spunbond and mulched with sawdust, peat, dry leaves and other materials.

Pest Control

In early autumn, trapping belts are removed from the trees and burned along with caterpillars of the codling moth, weevils and other garden pests that have climbed there. With the onset of cold weather, insects for winter hibernation burrow into the soil of tree trunks and under the bark of plants, so the first step is to clean the stems from old bark, moss and lichens, cover the wounds with garden pitch and whiten the trees with a special solution with the addition of copper sulfate.

Spraying the garden in the spring is an important agrotechnical event, and everyone knows this. Sometimes site owners approach spraying the garden in the spring formally, without thinking too much about the essence of this agronomic procedure. Then the annual spraying of the garden in the spring runs the risk of becoming "senseless and merciless", even dangerous.

Our desire to put a barrier to pests and plant diseases is quite understandable. In the weather in the Middle lane, fruit and berry crops are regularly threatened by at least 70 types of pests and about 20 varieties of infectious diseases. Humanity has ways to suppress as many of them as possible, but then the environment and food will become dangerously poisonous for humans as well. Finding balance is the main task of spring events.

Refusal of processing

It must be admitted that the absence of global preventive irrigation is by no means the worst option. Definitely it is more reasonable than any excess.

• It is permissible to relax a little if the summer cottage is quite young and has not yet accumulated a large mass of harmful organisms.
• It is necessary to plant unpretentious, resistant varieties in the garden (there are problem-free roses, scab-free apple trees, blackcurrants without mites and red-gall aphids, gooseberries without a sphere library, strawberries with almost no gray rot, etc.) and in the best place.
• Regular agrotechnical measures are needed (thinning, pruning, digging, deoxidation, fertilization, mulching, traps, etc.).
• It is useful to apply spraying with biological preparations and stimulants from spring to autumn: immunomodulators Epin Extra, Zircon, Gumi; biopesticides Strobi and Fitoverm, microbiological agents such as Fitosporin. All of them act on already vegetative plants.

Even the most ardent supporters of organic farming are ready to give up if a significant part of the crop regularly dies in the garden. The way out is to seek a compromise: minimal harm with maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of pests and diseases, not forgetting about the environment.

Everything at once

"Give me something to spray everything and everything in the garden at once in the spring" echoes before the start of the season in garden shops. Even a simple and logical question from a reasonable seller: "Are you from diseases or from pests?" - able to lead the buyer into a stupor. Of course, a nimble seller will hand over some treasured product, to the delight of the buyer. As a rule, there are two results, and both are disappointing:

1. There is almost no effect from spraying.

2. The garden accumulates poisons.

Spring is a flexible concept

"Wide is my native country," and in garden recommendations one has to separate the seasons of the calendar and natural seasons. For agrotechnical measures, two natural indicators are important (dates differ by a month or more in different regions) - air temperature and stages of plant development in the spring garden:

• Before the kidneys swelled
• "green cone" - the very beginning of the extension of the leaves,
• budding,
• bloom,
• young ovaries.

The concept of "spring spraying" is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the spring and summer periods. However, two stages can be clearly distinguished: processing before the swelling of the kidneys and after this event (when the leaves and buds are advanced).

When, how and how to treat the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest term is the phase of dormant buds

We carry out the first spraying in the spring when low positive temperatures occur in the garden (+4 +6 degrees or slightly higher), but always before the buds swell, for dormant plants. Everywhere there is a different height and speed of melting of the snow cover, and cultures wake up at different times, so it is not always possible to meet one specific day. Black currants and awaken very early, but a bed of strawberries, covered roses and grapes can be under snow for a long time (especially on the northern slope).

Exceptions for plants

What horticultural crops can not be sprayed at all during this period

• Honeysuckle practically does not get sick and extremely rarely suffers from pests - if this is your good case, then we bypass it for now.
• This may also apply to blackberries (especially late ripening ones).
• If modern blackcurrant varieties are planted in your garden that are not damaged by powdery mildew and bud mites, then there is no point in spraying in early spring either. You still can’t get the glass inside the shoots, and the aphids are still in deep sleep (we will defeat it later with a biological product like Fitoverm).
• Do not need to be sprayed with fungicides and gooseberry varieties that are hardy to the sphere library.
• In many gardens, sea buckthorn does not get sick.
• In the case when your pears do not show serious problems from year to year, it is also permissible to put them alone.
• If there were previously prosperous years, there will be no need for disease protection for apple varieties that are immune to scab and hardy to moniliosis (fruit rot).
• Finally, the vines often do not need any treatment in the northern viticulture zone.
• For ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers, a thoughtful individual approach is needed.

This is a very important point - to determine the range of problem-free plants that do not require excessive care: for us - saving time, effort, money, and most importantly - the benefit of the environment. Chemical protection of the garden is carried out not all the time and not "just in case", but at real risk.

Scope

Before the buds swell, berries and fruit trees (strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, cherries, cherry plums, quince, peach, apricots, grapes), a rose garden, and flower beds need to be sprayed. At this time, the impact is more focused on diseases and only partially on pests, many of which are still dormant.

What to spray, optimal processing methods

Hot water

Having brought a bucket of water to a boil, immediately pour it into a watering can and water the bushes of any color of currants and gooseberries (sometimes they also capture raspberries and blackberries) - only over the sleeping bushes. It is believed that this partially destroys wintering forms of pests and diseases. With water with a temperature of strictly +65 degrees, we pour bushes of garden strawberries from a watering can immediately after the snow melts - from a strawberry microscopic mite and a nematode.

"Blue spray" - Bordeaux liquid

This is an ancient, invented a century and a half ago, but still the most useful measure against almost all fungal and bacterial infections on all crops and on the soil surface. It is carried out with such a tool as strong Bordeaux liquid - at a concentration of about 3% (and not 1%, as in green foliage). In the instructions for the drug, sometimes there is a discrepancy in the ratio of lime and copper sulfate in solution. This confusion is due to the fact that quicklime was used in the original recipe, and now slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) is most often taken, and more is required. When a store-bought Bordeaux mixture is purchased, it is better to act clearly according to the instructions. If it deals only with the preparation of a 1% solution, then for a 3% solution we simply reduce the amount of water by a factor of three. With independent purchase of ingredients for 3 liters of water, we take 100 grams of copper sulfate and slaked lime (or about 150-200 quicklime).

The alternative is Burgundy liquid. We cook in the same way as Bordeaux, but instead of lime we use soda (calcined or food); sometimes we also add a spoonful of soap or sugar to better stick to the branches. There is an option where we replace part of the soda with mustard powder and ammonia; let the mixture boil with the passage of a chemical reaction, and then immediately carry out the processing.

Drug 30+

The official manufacturer is only NPF Sober. This is an emulsion of vaseline oil, originally used in the spring to combat the scale insect (the most dangerous fruit pest) in the Krasnodar Territory. It turned out that the remedy is practically harmless to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects wintering on the branches of bushes and trees. From spraying in early spring, not only scale insects die, but also other insects wintering in crowns, even eggs and larvae. We stir a liter of the product in two buckets of water and spray the garden, spending a liter or two per bush and up to five liters per large tree. The substance is dangerous for bees. A similar product, Prophylactin, also contains a similar oil, but plus liquid karbofos (malathion), which is highly poisonous and useless at this time.

More spring spraying options

In early spring, a strong solution of urea (600 grams per bucket) is also used, sometimes with the addition of copper sulfate (50 grams).

Iron sulfate is also used for spraying, especially in the fight against lichen and moss, as well as against various diseases on grapes, roses, and fruit trees. A kilogram of iron sulfate is dissolved in twenty liters of water (for stone fruits such as cherries, the concentration is weaker, 600 grams per two buckets).

Both products are considered very burning, and experienced gardeners recommend using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, spraying them in the spring can delay bud break in the garden for a week.

Not an option

Agronomists do not advise resorting to folk remedies such as salt, diesel fuel, kerosene.

I would especially like to say about Nitrofen. The drug has long been recognized as the most dangerous carcinogen and banned in many countries, including Russia!!! You will not find it on sale (and you don’t need to).

Spraying at the stage of bud break ("green cone") and nomination of buds

At this time, all sorts of harmful organisms begin to wake up - both microscopic and those that are larger. A cool rainy spring ensures the early development of diseases, and sunny weather will please all insects.

Treatment for diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper

It is not too late to use Bordeaux liquid for continuous processing - only at a concentration of 1%. Flowers, grapes, apple-pears, cherries-plums, flowers in spring are also treated with HOM, Abiga-Peak is also used.

Biologicals

It is during this period that adherents of ecological farming carry out the first two treatments with such means as Fitosporin (everything in a row), Alirin (strawberries from gray rot, fruit trees), Fitolavin (apple trees from fruit rot).

This group includes the drug Strobi. It is a naturally occurring fungicide. It is used on apple and pear at the very beginning of its vegetation.

Prognoz (and other drugs with propiconazole)

Goods of identical composition: Forecast, Agrolekar, Chistoflor, Propi Plus. These are modern fungicides that are considered not too toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: strawberries (from gray rot), raspberries, gooseberries, currants.

Pureflower (and other products with difenoconazole)

Pureflower, Rayok, Skor, Diskor, Guardian, Plantenol represent the same contents. They are used on pome and stone fruits and berries, as well as on beautiful shrubs, roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole)

In the spring - this is the prevention of rust and powdery mildew on flowers, currants, gooseberries.

Thiovit Jet

This is sulfur - against powdery mildew on currants, apple trees, roses.

Horus

Designed for grapes, all pome and stone fruit crops. It is considered not too dangerous for bees, birds and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: there are no aphids, no caterpillars, no spider mites in the garden yet. It makes sense to use poison if last year there was a dominance of pests (weevil, raspberry beetle, sea buckthorn fly, codling moths, leafworms, etc.). You can not spray at the time of flowering - you need either before this joyful event, or immediately after, strictly according to the instructions.

Poisons-pyrethroids

This is, Spark Double effect, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion)

These are Karbofos, Fufanon, Iskra M.

Double poisons

This is Alatar, Inta-CM.

Copper preparations are recommended to be used separately. The rest of the fungicides can be mixed with pesticides, after checking whether this causes a violent chemical reaction. Studies show that the addition of a stimulant such as Epin Extra allows one and a half to two times to reduce the dosage of chemicals while maintaining effectiveness.

The main task of every gardener is to get a bountiful harvest from fruit trees, shrubs and other garden plantings, the flowering of bright representatives of flower beds. It is possible to achieve these goals with regular inspection of the garden, carrying out agrotechnical work, among which is the treatment of the garden from diseases and pests. Spraying the garden is a mandatory procedure; without it, your garden may well even be able to bear fruit and bloom, but, unfortunately, not for long. One or two years you will be glad to receive an environmentally friendly crop without introducing chemicals into the soil, and the third, it is likely that you will not collect anything at all, or the harvested crop will not be suitable for human consumption. It is not difficult to avoid this, and garden spraying preparations do not always mean chemicals that are dangerous for humans. Let's take a closer look at the issue, especially since the time for the spring processing of the garden has already begun.

Stages of garden processing

There are many types of garden sprays, classified by the timing of the treatment of the garden, by the applied preparations, by purpose, as well as by the problems that a particular spraying is designed to deal with. Today we will talk about the processing of the garden in the spring from diseases and pests. This type of garden processing is one of the fundamental and important, because as soon as you start the season, you will get a harvest at the end. If spring processing is skipped or neglected, there are great risks of crop damage or that fruit trees and shrubs will not bear fruit at all in the current season. Each spraying is carried out not at once, but in several steps.

Let's talk about the stages of spring garden processing, they traditionally have three.

• Processing the garden with swelling of the kidneys. The first treatment of the garden in the spring is the most aggressive, and the most necessary. This is due to the fact that the first pathogens that wake up after winter are very dangerous for fruit crops, they can lead not only to damage to the crop, but also to the death of the plant. Such garden diseases include moniliosis, late blight, and lichen. The timing of the garden treatment varies depending on the region and air temperature, in the middle lane the beginning of spraying falls on the final third of March. It is easier to navigate by the kidneys: they should begin to swell, but not yet have time to open up. For the first spring treatment of the garden, preparations such as a solution of iron or copper sulfate, or copper oxychloride are suitable.

• Processing the garden before budding. The second spring processing of the garden is aimed at the destruction of safely overwintered insect pests, which begin their activity immediately after the snow has completely melted and the upper layers of the soil have warmed up. The larvae hide in the ground, close to the surface, some settle under the bark. The timing of the spring treatment of the garden from insects is directly related to the first spraying, at least 20 days must pass between them. In the central zone of the country, this period most often confidently falls in mid-April, but it is important to be in time before the budding of trees and shrubs begins. For spraying, prepare any of the selected insecticides according to the instructions (Aktara, Kinmiks, Sharpei, Iskra, Commander, Karate), add boric acid to the solution (at the rate of 5 g per 10 l), and treat the garden with the resulting preparation.

• Processing the garden during the budding period. The third, final treatment of the garden in spring is carried out to fix the result and destroy insects that were not removed the first time, as well as pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases. The timing of spraying the garden is also blurred, but it is carried out during the period when the buds have already started, most often this is the first half of May. Since the third treatment has a complex task, the garden spray solution also consists of several preparations. For 10 liters of composition you will need: 2 liters of pure water, 2 liters of an antifungal drug (Alirin-B, Fitosporin, Gamair, Gliocladin), 2 liters of insectoacaricide (Aktara, Aktellik, Vermitek, Karate, Polo, Force, Engio), 2 liters of regulators growth and immunity stimulants (Buton, Gibberellin, Epin, Epin Extra), and 2 liters of boric acid (2 liters of water will require 1 g of the product).

Processing crops in the garden

The presence of a single scheme for processing the garden is convenient and reliable. But we must not forget that in addition to the generally accepted terms and preparations for spraying the garden in the spring, there are characteristic differences in the care of specific crops, shrubs and fruit trees. And besides, in addition to spraying, garden processing includes other useful agrotechnical procedures aimed at combating insects and diseases. Let us consider in more detail the care of the most common cultural plantings in our gardens.

• Processing currants and gooseberries in spring. Fruit bushes are considered to be a very strong culture, capable of resisting disease and insect attack qualitatively. Therefore, before flooding the shrub with chemistry, inspect the branches, the symptoms of diseases or insect settlements will be visible to the naked eye. If a problem is found, all affected shoots must be removed and removed from the site. Shrubs are watered with a solution of copper sulfate from insects and Bordeaux liquid from diseases. Recently, the use of biological products has become popular (Bitoxibacillin, Fitosporin, Trichofit, Mikosan), but they work at soil temperatures above 8 degrees.

• Processing strawberries in spring. You have very little time to process strawberries, it is necessary to complete the intervention before flowering. Remove weeds, weed, water the beds with hot water with the addition of potassium permanganate. Copper-containing preparations cope well with the main problems of strawberries.
• Processing grapes in spring. The fruiting of grapes in the current season is directly related to the quality of processing in the spring. In addition to cleaning procedures, garbage collection, removal of damaged branches, it is necessary to spray the grapes with a solution of copper or iron sulfate, and it will also work. The main enemy of grapes is the grape mite, in the fight against it, Vermitek and BI-58 preparations showed good results.

• Processing apple and pear trees in spring. In the fight against pests and diseases of apple and pear trees, in addition to the use of Bordeaux liquid and two types of vitriol, a urea solution is effective. They need to cover the tree before bud break.
• Processing raspberries in the spring. In addition to the above preparations used for the apple tree, raspberries take a solution of Aktellik and Karbofos well, they will help the shrub cope with the glass attack.
• Processing plums and cherry plums in spring. The features of spraying these trees are in the early stages (even before the start of sap flow) and in the additional watering of the trees with the same preparations (vitriol and Bordeaux liquid). Do not forget about whitewashing tree trunks, this traditional method is also effective in pest control.

• Peach processing in spring. Spraying with copper-containing preparations will cope with the classic peach disease, leaf curl, but it is important to start processing after reaching a stable positive air temperature.
• Processing of cherries and sweet cherries in spring. If the spraying of trees is carried out on time, before the start of sap flow, then further steps in the processing of cherries and cherries will no longer be needed. But if you are late, or traces of the vital activity of pests are found on the trees, use the preparations Skor, Poliram and Topsin-M.

In addition to the generally accepted plan for processing the garden in the spring, specific preparations that can cope with a particular disease or insect, there is a whole set of rules for spring processing the garden. Take advantage of the advice of professional gardeners, which I have carefully collected for you.

• Process each tree or shrub from top to bottom. This means that the crown is processed first, then the branches and shoots, and only lastly the trunk and the near-trunk circle of the soil.
• The best time to spray your garden is on a windless morning on a dry day. Bright sun, rain or high humidity are contraindications for applying drugs to plants.

• Strictly follow the instructions for diluting the drug indicated on the package. Do not exceed the dosage, a high concentration will not give the best result, on the contrary, you will expose the plant to burns and injuries.
• To treat the garden from diseases and insects, get separate sprayers, brushes and containers. After the procedure, the garden processing tool must be thoroughly washed, possibly disinfected, dried and stored.

Garden processing is an obligatory and uncomplicated step in growing cultivated plants. Remember the timeliness and regularity of the procedure, and do not forget about your own safety while working in the garden.

Spraying the garden in the spring is one of the main agricultural activities. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows about it. Many owners of personal plots approach this process in the spring formally, not really thinking about the main essence of the agronomic procedure. In this case, spraying the garden in the spring can turn into a merciless and pointless exercise. Everyone probably understands the great desire to protect your garden from various diseases and pests. In the conditions of central Russia, fruit and berry crops are constantly threatened by at least 60-70 species of various insect pests, and about 20 species of infectious diseases. People have in their hands effective methods of dealing with them. But in this case, food and the environment can become dangerous for the person himself. Finding a balance is the main task of spring work. In this article, we decided to tell you about how to spray the garden in early spring from diseases and pests. All the means that we present here will be effective and, moreover, safe for the person himself.

Some extremes at the time of spraying

Refusal to process.

It should be recognized that the complete absence of large-scale preventive irrigation is far from the worst option. Naturally, this will be more reasonable than excess.

• You can relax a little if your garden is still young and has not yet been able to accumulate many different harmful substances and organisms.
• In your garden, you can plant resistant and unpretentious varieties. There are scab-free apple trees, problem-free roses, gooseberries without a sphere library, blackcurrants without red-headed aphids and mites, and strawberries without gray rot.
• It is necessary to constantly carry out various agrotechnical works (pruning, thinning, deoxidation, digging, mulching, fertilizing the soil, setting traps, etc.)
• It is very useful with the onset of spring and until the beginning of autumn to spray trees with various simulators and biological preparations: Zircon, Gumi, Epin, biopesticides Strobi and Fitoferon, microbiological preparations such as Fitosparin.
• Many proponents of organic farming may simply give up if a large number of crops are constantly dying in their garden. In this case, there is only one way out: finding a compromise, namely, causing minimal harm while obtaining the maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of diseases and pests, not forgetting the environment.

Everything at once

How to spray the garden in the spring before blooming from everything? This question can be heard in the spring in every garden store. Even the simplest question from some sensible salesperson: Do you need a pest or disease control? May cause a stupor in the buyer. Of course, some seller can sell the coveted product, to the great delight of the buyer. As we can see: there will be two results. And they are both, unfortunately, disappointing:

• There is practically no effect from processing.
• The garden will accumulate poisons.

Despite any advertising that is very convincing at first glance and our employment, it is necessary to stop for a couple of minutes and try to face the truth: there is no one super-ideal drug and the timing of spraying the garden in the spring from pests and diseases.

Spring is a loose concept

In many garden recommendations, it is necessary to divide the seasons into natural and calendar. For carrying out agrotechnical work, two main natural indicators are important (in different regions of our country, the dates will differ by a month or more) - the stage of development and the air temperature in the garden in spring:

• Until the kidneys swell.
• Budding.
• Bloom.
• Green cone - the beginning of the appearance of leaves.
• Young ovaries.

Such a concept as spring spraying is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the summer and spring periods. But still, two important stages can be determined: the treatment of plants before the buds swell on them and the period after this event (when buds appear and leaves are advanced).

When, how and with what to spray the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest time is the dormant bud phase. The very first spraying should be carried out in early spring at low temperatures in the garden (+3, +6 degrees, or slightly higher). But this must be done before the buds swell, still on dormant plants. Almost everywhere there is a different speed of snow melting and the height of its cover. Yes, besides, cultures wake up after winter at different times. Based on this, sometimes it is not possible to meet one particular day. Honeysuckle and black currants begin to wake up quite early from winter sleep. but as for strawberries, sheltered grapes and roses, these crops can be under snow cover for a long time.

Plant exceptions.

Which garden plants can not be sprayed in a given period of time.

• Honeysuckle very rarely gets sick and practically does not suffer from pests.
• The same goes for blackberries.
• In the event that modern blackcurrant varieties are planted in your backyard that are not susceptible to bud mites and powdery mildew, then there is no point in spraying in early spring.
• It is not necessary to spray fungicides also on those varieties of gooseberries that endure the sphere library.
• In many household plots, sea buckthorn is also not susceptible to diseases.
• If serious problems do not appear on your pears in the garden every year, then they also do not need to be processed.
• If your garden used to have good and prosperous years, then you will not need protection from diseases for those varieties of apple trees that have endurance to moniliosis and immunity to scab.

Many perennial flowers and ornamental shrubs require an individual approach.

One of the most important points is the identification of a number of problem-free plants that do not require additional care: for a person, saving his personal time, money and effort. And most importantly, the benefit to the environment. Chemical treatment of the garden should be carried out at real risk.

Spray coverage

In this article, you can also learn about when to spray the garden from pests in the spring. Until the buds swell, fruit trees and berry plants (gooseberries, plums, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, cherry plums, cherries, apricots, peaches and grapes), flower beds and a rose garden need to be processed. In a given period of time, this impact will mainly be aimed at protecting against various diseases, and partly at pests that are still sleeping at this time.

What should be treated: optimal spraying methods

Hot water.

Having brought a bucket of water to a boil, you must immediately pour it into a watering can and water the blackberry and currant bushes of any color. This procedure can partially destroy some types of wintering diseases and pests. Water with a temperature of +65 degrees must be poured over strawberry bushes from a watering can.

"Blue spray": Bordeaux liquid.

This event is very old. It was invented almost two centuries ago. But to this day it is the most effective and useful. It is directed against almost all bacterial and fungal infections on the soil surface and on all crops. This procedure is carried out using a strong Bordeaux liquid (at a concentration of approximately 3% (but not one percent, as for green foliage). In the instructions for this drug, you can find inconsistencies in the ratio of copper sulfate and lime in solution. This is due to the fact that the original recipe used quicklime, but now they use slaked lime (or calcium hydroxide).The latter requires much more.Once you have purchased Bordeaux mixture, it is best to follow the enclosed instructions exactly. about the preparation of a one percent solution.As for a three percent solution, in this case it is necessary to reduce the amount of water by a factor of three.If you purchase the necessary ingredients yourself, you should take 100 grams of quicklime and copper sulfate for 3 liters of water.An alternative to this drug is Burgundy liquid The solution must be prepared similarly to Bordeaux liquid, only for the place of lime neo it is necessary to use soda (food or soda). In rare cases, a spoonful of sugar or soap should be added. In addition, there is an option where soda is replaced with ammonia or mustard powder. Next, you need to give the resulting mixture a little boil. After that, processing should be carried out immediately.

Drug 30+.

The official manufacturer is NPF Sober. This drug is vaseline oil, which was previously used to combat the scale insect in the early spring in the Krasnodar Territory. As a result, it turned out that this remedy does not pose any danger to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects that hibernate on the branches of trees and shrubs. After spraying in the spring, both scale insects and other insects and their larvae wintering in crowns die. One liter of this drug must be diluted in 2 buckets of water and then sprinkled with the resulting solution on the garden, spending about one liter per bush and up to 5 liters per large tree. This tool is very dangerous for bees.

More spring spraying options

Not sure at what temperature you can spray your garden in spring? Then it is worth saying that they do it in early autumn. In the spring, a strong solution of urea is also used (600 g per bucket). Sometimes copper sulphate (50g) is added. Iron sulfate is also used for spraying. It is often used to control moss and lichen, and also against diseases on roses, vines, and fruit trees. One kg of iron sulfate must be dissolved in 20 liters of water.

The two remedies described above are very scalding. And many gardeners advise using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, treatment with these preparations in the spring can delay the blooming of buds in the garden for a week or two.

On a note! Many agronomists do not recommend the use of folk remedies such as diesel fuel, salt or kerosene. Particular attention should be paid to Nitrofen. This remedy has long been recognized as a dangerous carcinogen. It was banned for use in most countries of the world, including our country.

Spraying at the stage of bud break and bud extension

In order to find out how to spray the garden in the spring before bud break, you must carefully read this article. Here you can see a lot of interesting things for yourself. Now it is worth reporting those spraying rules that apply at the stage of bud break and bud formation. During this period of time, many harmful organisms, both small and large, gradually wake up from hibernation. If the spring is rainy and cool, then this will contribute to the development of various diseases. And if the weather is sunny and warm, then insects begin to appear.

Spraying against diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper.

For complete processing it is not too late to use the Bordeaux mixture - only at a concentration of 1%. Grapes, flowers, apple and pear trees, plums, cherries in early spring must be processed with HOM or Abiga-Peak.

Biopreparations.

Many gardeners in the spring time are engaged in the first two treatments, using drugs such as Alirin (fruit trees, strawberries), phytosporin (they process everything), Fitolavin (apple trees). This group also includes such a tool as Strobi. The drug is a fungicide of natural origin. it is applied on a pear and an apple-tree at the beginning of its vegetation.

Drug Prognosis (and other drugs with propiconazole).

Products of identical composition: Agrolekar, Forecast, Propi Plus, Chistoflor. These drugs are modern fungicides that are not very toxic. They carry out the processing of berries in the budding phase: raspberries, strawberries (from gray rot), gooseberries, currants.

Chistotsvet (and other products with difenoconazole).

Similar content is represented by drugs such as Raek, Chistotsvet, Keeper, Skor, Diskor, Plantenol. They are used on stone fruit and pome fruits, as well as on roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole).

In spring, Topaz is a preventive measure for powdery mildew on flowers, gooseberries and currants.

Thiovit Jet.

This drug protects currants, roses and apple trees from powdery mildew.

Horus.

It is used for the processing of grapes and all stone and pome crops. Not very dangerous for birds, bees and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: since during this period of time there are neither caterpillars, nor aphids, nor spider mites. It makes sense to use poison only if a large number of pests were observed in the past year (raspberry beetle, weevil, sea buckthorn fly, leafworms, codling moths, etc.). spraying at the time of flowering is impossible.

Poisons are pyrethroids.

These are Spark Double Effect, Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion).

These are Iskra M, Fufanon, Karbofos.

Double poisons.

This is Inta-CM, Alatar,

Copper preparations are advised to be used separately. And other fungicides can be mixed with pesticides.

Finally

Today, thanks to this article, you were able to learn how to spray trees in the garden in spring. We hope that these measures will be able to protect your garden from all sorts of pests and diseases. As a result of these activities, your garden will be able to bring you a rich harvest of delicious fruits.

Spring is coming, and gardeners have more work to do, and with the onset of heat, changes in the garden are happening rapidly. Buds are already beginning to swell on plants that were still sleeping yesterday, everything literally comes to life before our eyes. After a long winter, this can not but rejoice. But along with the garden, its problems come to life - pests and pathogens. Weevils, flower beetles, aphids, clasterosporiasis, moniliosis, scab, powdery mildew - you can list for a long time, yes, I think you know them yourself. How to make sure that there are no uninvited guests in the garden, or at least there are fewer?

There are different ways to achieve this goal, but perhaps the simplest and most popular is spraying the garden with effective chemicals. Of course, I know about the harm that these products can cause to the environment, animals and us, but still ... How many are ready to give them up? Here, in my opinion, the situation here is approximately the same as with mineral fertilizers. You can argue about this for a long time, but for many it is simple and effective, the main thing is to use it “wisely”. So, when and how to spray in the spring to be "wise"?

When to start spraying the garden from pests and diseases?

The first thing to understand is that you are unlikely to solve the problem with a one-time spray. After all, all the "problems" wake up not only in your garden, but also in the surrounding area. Get rid of yourself for a short time, but the breeze will bring a new portion of both pests and diseases. Therefore, in the spring it is worth spraying 4 times.

Second. The fight should begin immediately with the onset of the first warm days (in different regions this is different and it makes no sense to name specific dates). If you miss the first moment, and all this "evil spirits" begin to spread and spread around the garden, then it will be more difficult to deal with it. And now specifically.

The first spring spraying is the most important

In my opinion, the first spraying of the garden is the most important and should be done. It is carried out in early spring before the buds begin to swell on plants at average daily temperatures of about +4. At this moment, the tree is still sleeping in the same way as overwintered pests and disease spores sleep. And you can use preparations of a fairly strong concentration, without fear of damaging the plants.

It’s just worth taking a closer look at different plants, not all of them are in the same phase. Let's say, if the apple tree is still sleeping, then the buds are already swollen on the blackcurrant and strong solutions can harm it, simply burn it. Therefore, we approach the first spraying very carefully.

What to use? A classic solution that has been popular for a hundred years is “Bordeaux mixture”. This is a mixture of two aqueous solutions of lime and copper sulfate. Someone cooks it on their own (and you need to do it right), someone buys a ready-made cooking kit (“Bordeaux mixture”) in a garden store. For the first spring spraying, it is worth using 3% Bordeaux mixture.

You can use iron sulfate by diluting it in water (300-500 grams per 10 liters). What does concentration depend on? From the degree of infection of your garden. With a weak infection, 300 grams per bucket of water is enough, with a clearly sick garden, it is better to dissolve 500 grams.

Some gardeners use the good old Nitrofen for the first spring spraying. Doing this, in my opinion, is not worth it. He is “kind” in the sense of his effectiveness, but not at all “kind” to our health.

Much more interesting is the recently popular concentrated solution of urea (urea). Take about 700 grams of urea per 10 liters of water. You can add 50 grams of copper sulfate. Such a solution effectively fights both overwintered insect pests and spores of many diseases.

This solution has two additional "bonuses". On the one hand, it slightly slows down the growing season (7-10 days), which can protect flowers from spring frosts. And on the other hand, it is a nitrogen fertilizer, which is exactly what our plants need in spring. These are the properties that seem to contradict each other, and, nevertheless, working properties.

There is a good option - "Preparation 30-in". It is considered safe for us and the environment, because it simply creates a film on the surface of the sprayed plant, and pests do not have the opportunity to "breathe". But it is worth remembering that he fights with insect pests, but not with diseases. And it is worth using it in those gardens that suffer from pests.

There are other drugs ... When choosing one or another, the main criterion is whether it is suitable for early spring and processing at low temperatures (let me remind you +4 degrees).

The second spraying of the garden in spring - "on a green cone"

The second spray is called "green cone spray". Already from the name it is clear that it is carried out after the buds of the plant begin to develop and move forward in the form of green, still tightly folded cones. Expanding buds become vulnerable to strong solutions, in fact, as well as surviving and revived pests and diseases.

What to use? You can use the same Bordeaux liquid, but in a much lower concentration - 1%. But, in my opinion, it is much more efficient to use modern preparations, and to prepare the so-called “tank mixtures” from them. This means that in one bucket of water, you can mix two different drugs: one for disease control and the other for pest control.

For example, you can mix "Horus" (from scab, powdery mildew, moniliosis) and "Aktara" or "Decis" (insecticides). There are other options, the main thing is to carefully study the instructions, whether they are suitable for mixing with other drugs and whether there are any restrictions on air temperature. The use of drugs in the form of tank mixtures can reduce the number of treatments. Instead of a separate fight (first with pests, and then with diseases), you carry out one complex treatment. I hope you do less damage to the environment.

The third spraying - "on a rose bud"

The third spraying is carried out at the time of the promotion of flower buds (they are still closed). Since most of the trees in our gardens have pink buds, this spraying is called "pink bud". I won't talk about it for a long time. You can use the same tank mixtures of fungicides and insecticides.

The only remark - when buying this or that drug, pay attention not only to its name, but also to the active substance. Often, different manufacturers under different names hide the same thing. And it is desirable to alternate drugs so that the active substance is different, so that there is no addictive effect.

Fourth spring spraying of the garden - after flowering

The fourth spraying of the garden is also carried out with tank mixtures immediately after the end of flowering.

Now a few, in my opinion, important remarks:

• In order for spring spraying to have a result, they must be done on time, focusing not on reference books, Internet resources or the advice of video bloggers, but solely on weather conditions and the phases of plant development in your garden.
• It is necessary to treat the plant with this or that solution completely from the top of the head to the ground, and, by the way, it does not hurt to sprinkle the near-stem circle. If you skip something or just be lazy, it can negate all your work, and the disease will flare up again (or the pest).
• If the first spraying often allows you to treat all the plants in the garden at the same time (they are all sleeping), then a strong differentiation in development begins. It is quite possible that, when processing a tree “on a rosebud”, there will already be a flowering tree nearby, which means that it is no longer possible to process it. Be careful.
• Try to agree with the neighbors around you about simultaneous treatments, so the effect will be more complete.
• Try to find and use products that are harmless to insect pollinators and animals, and there are such.
• Do not forget that even if the package says that the drug is harmless, you should take care to protect your skin, eyes and respiratory organs. My firm belief is that if a drug kills an insect, then it is not harmless to us either. Usually it is recommended to use glasses and respirators, which, in my opinion, is uncomfortable. I prefer transparent shields-masks, of course, with a headgear and gloves included.

Of course, anything can happen and perhaps spraying will be needed both in summer and autumn, but it is these first four that, in my opinion, are decisive and determine the health of your garden this season.

Good health to you and your garden! And a bountiful harvest!