Do-it-yourself hive: video, drawings, sizes of frames and hives. Do-it-yourself bee hive: features of making a house for bees Do-it-yourself bee hive frames drawings

One of the most useful delicacies in our world, without a doubt, is honey. After all, there is simply no other tasty product that has so many useful substances. And the hive is a kind of factory for the production of this delicacy, which must have everything necessary for the full existence of its inhabitants. That is why, before you start building a hive with your own hands, you need to carefully study all the nuances of the life of insects. To do this, it is worth studying special literature that tells about the existence of bees and their way of life.

A little about the device of the hive

Every adult knows that the bee community exists according to a special regime, where each bee clearly knows its role and has its place in the house.

• The duties of young bees include feeding young animals, since they have more developed maxillary glands that perfectly produce royal jelly.
• Middle-aged individuals are responsible for the cleanliness of their home.
• Older bees are engaged in the construction of combs, as they have well developed wax glands.
• There are also "flying" insects, their main purpose is to collect honey.
• But the duties of drones include the fertilization of queen bees. But their life is rather short, because with the onset of autumn, males are driven out of the hive, where they die.

Each hive can be filled with several tens of thousands of bees, but only at the height of the summer season.

Do-it-yourself beehive

boa hive

The bee house consists of several parts: a body, a store, a liner and other components. Each department has its own residents and performs certain functions. The best option for beginner beekeepers is a boa hive.

Frame

The most important part of the hive is the body, because absolutely all bees use it for 12 months a year. There is always a queen bee here, which lays its eggs in the combs built for it. In summer, the honeycombs are completely filled with not only eggs and larvae, but also honey. Basically, this part of the hive is located in its lowest part. It should be well kept warm in winter, and in summer, on the contrary, be cool. That is why, in order to make the case, you need to use thermal insulation materials. Most often, PPS slabs serve as it.

In the case nesting frames should be located. Usually their number does not exceed 15 pieces, it all depends on the size and design of the hive. Frames are removable parts of the bee dwelling.

nesting frames

The bottom is attached to the body, which, depending on the model, can be removable. According to the hive design scheme, the frames should be in a suspended state. The distance from the bottom to the frame should not be less than 2 cm. It makes it possible to freely carry out pre-season cleaning of the bee house.

Important! For more convenient access, the frame space can be increased to 5 cm. In addition, this will enable the beekeeper to feed the bees a little by placing a container with special food there.

Shop

This section of the hive is located on top of the body. It is in this part of the house that bees lay honey. In the manufacture of hives, it must be taken into account that the size of the store must correspond to the size of the body, and the number of frames must be the same. The extension should be warm, so it, like the body, is insulated.

liner

The liner, or ceiling, serves to additionally protect the hive from rain and other atmospheric precipitation, as well as to create a kind of air cushion, with which the optimal air temperature is maintained in the house. However, beekeepers often use the liner as a roof. Then its surface is upholstered with iron.

Hive accessories

Honeycomb with perga

Before you make a beehive for bees with your own hands, you need to know what details should complement it. These parts of the bee house include honeycombs, a diaphragm, dividers, subframe roofing material and other details.

Frames intended for installation in the body are made from natural wood by professional hive manufacturers. The thickness of each of them should not exceed 4 mm. And to make it easier for the bees to build honeycombs, you can stretch stainless steel wire or a very thick fishing line along their perimeter. The shape of the frames can be varied, it depends on the type and design of the hive:

• horizontal, having a height less than the length;
• vertical with a height greater than the length;
• square.

Hives of different types

Making hives with your own hands is a rather laborious work, requiring accuracy and perseverance, because it consists of a fairly large number of parts. In addition to the above, each hive has:

• Separators. They are designed to provide the necessary distance between the frames, which should be about 10 cm.
• Diaphragm (insert board). Its main purpose is to divide the uterine nest. Its dimensions must match the body. It is located in the hive so that it divides it into 2 parts. Often it is installed in the case of dividing the space in the house when there are 2 bee colonies in it.
• Stretcher. This is a sheet of roofing material, which is treated with a special composition to eliminate odor. It is made in the size of the bottom of the case. They insert it for the winter, and in the spring, the quality of wintering bees is assessed by its contents. It is harvested with the beginning of the season and stored subject to certain rules.
• Dividing grid. It is installed so that the uterus cannot move from one part of the house to another. The usual location is the gap between the store and the building. It can be plastic or wire, and the cells are of a size into which worker bees can easily pass, but the queen bee and the tinder bee, which are larger, remained in the nests.
• Folding loops. They are a connecting element, the main action of which is to connect the magazine and the socket housing.
• Connecting tape. Serves for a stronger connection of all non-removable parts. The material for its manufacture, as a rule, is thin steel.

Diaphragm

How to make a do-it-yourself boa hive: drawings

Making hives with your own hands begins with the preparation of drawings and all the necessary details. The first thing to do is the bottom of the hive. There are 2 types: removable and integral.

Removable bottoms, as a rule, are made for multi-hull hives. Such a bottom allows you to quickly carry out spring work in the hive, as it is removed very quickly, freeing up space.

Important! The removable bottom should have universal dimensions and easily fit other hives in the apiary.

Non-separable bottoms have outlived their usefulness and are now used only in sunbeds, which contain more than 20 cells.

Before you build a hive, you need to create its blueprint. This must be done painstakingly, carefully calculating all the necessary dimensions. The bottom of the hive needs to be drawn on paper, and only then do the blank.

Frame hives for bees

The manufacturing technology of frame bee houses has not changed for a hundred years. As before, only the front and back walls of the hive are insulated. This option is great for the Urals, Siberia and more northern regions of Russia. The voids between the inner and outer walls are filled with natural insulation, such as moss or sawdust.

Note! Before you make a hive with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of its walls. After all, the temperature of the air inside the “room” will depend on this parameter.

Also, cheap foam is often used as a heater. Its advantages are obvious: it keeps heat very well, rodents do not like it, and it is very light, which greatly simplifies assembly.

Do-it-yourself beehive from polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam has recently been used in the production of beehives for bees. It is much more expensive than polystyrene foam, but its performance is much higher.

Making hives from polyurethane foam at home is not a difficult task in principle. All prepared parts are connected with wood screws.

Styrofoam hive

How to build a cheap bee hive for kindergarten

There are a great many materials for making a decorative bee hive for kindergarten students. One of the most budgetary options is twine - the only option for making do-it-yourself beehives for bees that does not require drawings.

To make a bee nest, you need to prepare:

• balloon;
• glue;
• leg-split;
• decorative details.

The balloon needs to be inflated and coated with glue (wallpaper glue is perfect). Then you need to wrap it with twine, but you need to do this so that a small window remains. The next stage of work will be decorating the hive. To do this, you can use any materials you like, for example, pentagons cut out of felt and artificial leather. To fill the hive, you can use a synthetic winterizer or foam rubber.

Not taking decorative hives into account, but having a large apiary, it will be rational to make bee houses with your own hands. After all, this can save quite a lot of money that can be spent on the purchase of bee colonies of different breeds. But here you need to take care of the quality of the material and purchase the necessary equipment. By following the drawings, everything will definitely work out!

Beekeeping is not an easy task, but it is beneficial not only because of its high profitability. Entomologists and agrarians are unanimous: in general, the benefits of the honey bee Apis melifera are not only honey and wax, which is highly demanded in technology, but even more - pollination of fruit plants. An apiary in a country house, a personal plot, in a garden and next to a vegetable garden is definitely worth all the trouble and expenses, if not directly, by the output of marketable beekeeping products, then by increasing the productivity of the economy as a whole.

A ready-made hive in the Russian Federation can be bought for 2000-4000 rubles, but without frames. One hive in the apiary will not do. The most expensive equipment for private beekeeping - a honey extractor and a wax melter - can at first be rented or given away for processing. Other bee care supplies are more readily available. That is, at the beginning of the beekeeping activity, it makes complete sense to make the hives yourself: they are not material-intensive, they are not structurally and technologically complex. This publication is devoted to how to make a beehive with your own hands. The material is designed primarily for beginners.

Do or create?

The hive is not technological equipment in the usual way. It is primarily the home of the bee colony (families). Honey collection is determined by many factors: the experience of the beekeeper, the method of beekeeping, the number, species composition and density of honey plants in a given place, the location of the apiary on it, and finally, just the weather. But honey production from a beehive depends on the correct choice of its type and workmanship much more than milk yield from a cow depends on the design of her stall.

A bee family is not a family in the usual sense, nor is it a colony of individuals or a nest. Since the middle of the last century, some zoologists for a brief description of communities of social insects (termites, ants, social wasps and bees) use the term "superorganism", implying that the "superorganism" is the subject of a population of a given species, an individual in it is its structural unit, as in our body, a cell has strictly defined functions, one cannot exist by itself, and within the community-"superorganism" a complex exchange of information is continuously going on.

“Superorganism” in the full sense of the word is another life at our side, and, as the 1969 Animal Lives aptly remarked, this word has no more to do with displaying the true essence of the differences between them and us than a puff of smoke has to do with the Club of Famous captains. An internal combustion engine piston is closer to an old soft boot, and its cooling jacket is closer to a piece of clothing than a bee colony is closer to our family, and its fertile female is closer to a mother or queen.

Therefore, at the beginning of beekeeping, you need to make a beehive for bees, firstly, exactly following the chosen pattern. Beekeeping has been around for millennia, but the first frame hive that made it possible to fully domesticate the honey bee was developed only 200 years ago, it is so difficult for us to understand their life. Secondly, at the start, choose a sample for repetition that is proven, convenient not only for the life of bees, but also for the development of your understanding of it. Chasing immediately only for the maximum honey yield means dooming yourself to failure in advance. You cannot become a beekeeper relying only on book knowledge, and you need to make beehives for your apiary in such a way as to back them up with observations and practical experience as best and as quickly as possible.

Hive of Dadan

In an area more or less provided with flowering honey plants, the Dadanovsky hive gives a honey flow comparable to that of the Langstroth-Ruth hive, and caring for it and beekeeping in the Dadan hive is not much more complicated than in the lounger hive. The Dadan-Blatt hive for 12 frames 300 mm high (Dadan frame, see below for frames) provides wintering for 2 bee colonies in a temperate continental climate, and at the same time can be made under the standard Ruth frame. A Dadan-Blatt hive fully filled with honey weighs up to 35 kg, which allows you to manage it alone.

In the Dadan hive, the housing and magazine of different heights make up the hive module. Multi-hull hives are obtained by stacking modules one on top of the other. This hive is now known in several varieties adapted to local conditions. In Russia, their own modifications of the Dadan hive have been developed, but in view of the ongoing climate changes, the Dadan hive in the variant common in the northwestern states of the USA and Canada, designed for 9 Ruth frames, may be of interest; see its drawings in fig. below. The climate there is much wetter and more unstable than in the Central Strip of the Russian Federation. But it’s probably too early for us to supply the hive with a comb liner with inserts; then the Section Comb Super turns into a simple box, and the Inner Cover and Outer Telescoping Cover become the usual cover and roof, respectively. The structural material of this hive is a 16 mm thick hemlock board, which can be replaced with moisture-resistant plywood.

hive frames

Removable frames in a hive for bees are a kind of foundation on which they build a house - honeycombs. From the point of view of bees, combs are divided into nesting, for brood, and idle for stocks. In the cells filled with honey, the first queen lays her eggs, the worker bees seal them, and the larvae develop by swimming in the food. In idle combs, food is stored for the whole family for the winter and bad weather.

Note: although honey bees form a “superorganism”, they are not endowed with reason and act instinctively. Therefore, in the hive, with an excess of space, it is possible to build empty honeycombs. Their appearance is highly undesirable, because. the strength of the family is wasted both for her and for the beekeeper.

From the point of view of the beekeeper, nesting and idle combs should be separated, highlighting separate frames for both. In this case, you can take honey and wax without destroying or even disturbing the bee colony. Therefore, structurally, the frames for hives are divided into nested, placed in the body, and store.

Most hives are designed for low-wide frames, which are wider than tall. Bee colonies tend to develop vertically, so a low-wide frame reduces the likelihood of swarming when there is a large excess of food. Enthusiasts of a narrow-high framework inevitably face a decrease in the honey flow as a whole, because when the germ of a new swarm - the nucleus - is released from the bee colony, the accumulated reserves are spent on it.

The standard dimensions of the nesting frame of the hive since the time of Ruth are 435x230 mm, and the magazine, or half-frame, 435x145 mm. The nesting frame of Dadan differs only in its height increased to 300 mm, see the dimensions and drawings of the frames for the hives in fig. A 2-mm galvanized wire is stretched in the opening of the frame (inset at the top right in the figure) and foundation is laid in it, this is a kind of trench for the foundation. Bees will build honeycombs without foundation, but honey collection from the hive will then begin later. The frame in the case/magazine hangs on hangers resting on the inner fold of the box, see below.

The width of the upper shelf of the frame is 36 or 37 mm, but the hive body / magazine is calculated for the frame installation step of 37.5-38 mm. The fact is that a too dense package of frames from thermal expansion can jam in the box, and beekeepers already have a lot of trouble with frames glued to it with propolis. Therefore, based on the local climate, the width of the frame shelf and their calculated step are chosen as follows:

• The climate is even: sea, steppe or others with slight temperature fluctuations - a shelf of 37 mm, a step of 37.5 mm.
• The climate is temperate continental, eg. Central Russia - shelf 37 mm, pitch 38 mm or shelf 36 mm, pitch 37 mm.
• The climate is continental or if the apiary is in the mountains - a shelf of 36 mm, a step of 38 mm.

The gap between the sidewalls of the frame and the walls of the hive has been precisely verified by beekeepers over the centuries: 8 mm. More - the bees will build it with honeycombs; less - it will be tightened with poppolis and the frame will stick. Ways to remove sticky frames are known, but why deal with problems if you can not create them?

The gap between the lower bar of the frame and the bottom of the hive is made larger, 20 mm. Less is impossible, if you deprive the bees of the opportunity to walk along the bottom or limit it, the family will wither away. But then regular care of the hive is necessary: ​​to tear off the frames that have stuck to its bottom without ruining the family is still the same task.

Assemble frames on nails using a special pattern board, see sidebar in fig; for frame wood, see below. The excavation of combs and the care of the apiary are greatly facilitated by folding basket frames, see the figure on the right, but considering that hundreds of frames are required even for a small apiary, the labor and money costs for the purchase of stainless wire in this case are far from always justified.

Note: in some types of hives, non-standard frames are used. These will be described below along with resp. hive types.

sun lounger

The hive-lounger is something like a chest with frames suspended in it, even its lid is often made hinged. The beehive-lounger is also called the Ukrainian beehive, which is not true. It was invented independently by amateur beekeepers from several countries of Southern Europe. The hive-lounger came to Ukraine already in finished form, and there, frankly speaking, it was spoiled: they deprived the store and adapted it to narrow-high frames of Dadan size, see fig. In fairness, it should be noted that from the point of view of “lazy” beekeeping in regions with a favorable climate for bees and an abundance of lushly flowering honey plants, this made some sense.

The device and dimensions of the hive-lounger for 16 frames (one or two family) and 20 frames (2 family) are shown on the next. rice. In it, the bee colony is even more encouraged to develop horizontally, and the observation of the bees is facilitated. An indispensable accessory of such a hive is at least 1 diaphragm.

In general terms, the mode of operation of a 16-20 frame lounger is as follows:

• During the spring "explosive" peak of flowering honey plants (garden, buckwheat field, linden forest, acacia grove), 2 families work, the main (main) and auxiliary. The movement of bees from family to family does not particularly reduce the honey flow, they are not up to it, a lot of work.
• At the decline of flowering, the auxiliary colony either separates and moves away (relocates), or is destroyed, or harasses itself: its worker bees kill their queen and move on to the main colony. The excess space of the hive is fenced off by the diaphragm.
• If the summer flowering of wild honey plants is not particularly intense, the hive works in 1-family mode until wintering.
• In the case of violent summer flowering in the main family, a nucleus is formed, which develops into a new auxiliary family.

Thus, at the cost of some reduction in honey yield, the bed hive is largely self-regulating and self-adjusting for the honey/non-honey year. Therefore, even rather significant flaws in beekeeping in it do not excessively reduce the honey flow and almost never ruin the family.

Note: if you read or hear the expression “double queen bee colony”, “two queen hive”, etc., do not believe your eyes and ears. Any student of the Faculty of Biology, not to mention entomologists, will explain that there are no “double queen” bee colonies and, in principle, cannot exist. By analogy with individual organisms, again forcedly rough and inaccurate, 2 bee colonies in one hive is not a two-headed bird in a cage, but simply 2 birds in one cage. Which may or may not get along there.

The sunbed hive also has a property that is valuable for professionals: since the expansion of bee colonies is directed mainly along the vertical, one sunbed hive is suitable for wintering 2 or more colonies, which allows saving weak colonies. It makes no sense to nurse them in a large hive, it will be necessary to give abundant feeding. But an overfed family in the spring will not be able to restore vitality and will wither away. Imagine that someone spent the winter in bed on a diet, and in the spring he was launched into a logging or obstacle course. In a small volume and with neighbors, the bee colony experiences weakness, like a soldier in a trench with a runny nose. The appearance and layout of the wintering hive-lounger for 4 families is given in fig.

Alpines

Roger Delon decided to create a hive that would allow bees to fully use the incredible honey potential of alpine meadows, but this task is extremely difficult. Alpine honey plants bloom in groups of species throughout the season; volley bloom, its peaks are high, sharp and short-lived. Blooming clumps are located on islands, often distant from each other at considerable distances. Daily temperature fluctuations in the alpine altitudinal zone are also extreme: in the mountains at night and in summer it is winter, and just a cloud has run up on the Sun - deep autumn. The flight of bees for a bribe is also necessary in bursts, and they must wait up to several cold days without switching on wintering instincts, i.e. a mountain hive should quickly warm up in the sun and store heat well.

Delon, the beekeeper, came to the conclusion that, first, the bees in such conditions need to be provided with the possibility of the fastest possible development of the family. Secondly, the type of hive most suitable for this should repeat the natural dwelling most preferred by wild bees - a log with a hollow. And in order to create conditions that will be good for the bees, and honey and wax will go to us, Roger Delon, based on the knowledge about social insects obtained by that time (middle of the last century), developed a very low wire frame capable of holding foundation without supporting threads ( see fig.), and already under it - a hive of square buildings 108 mm high, see fig. below.

For ease of care, Roger Delon made his hive-deck composite; the number of its buildings can reach up to 12 or more. The roof of the Alpine hive is deaf, like the vault of a natural bee hollow. There is only one letok, there are no ventilation holes to reduce heat loss. Ventilation is also like that of wild bees in a hollow: air enters through the notch, rises under the roof, cools down there, goes down and exits again through the notch. Bees ventilate themselves by fluttering their wings. There are also no stores, separators, diaphragms, etc., which we need more than bees. Thus, although outwardly the alpine hive of Roger Delon is similar to the multi-hull Langstroth-Root, the differences between them are fundamental.

The first tests of the new hive gave a result that Delon's colleagues did not believe at first, despite his impeccable reputation: the bees did not steal honey and did not go from family to family, even when 40-50 square meters were left for the bee colony. m. honey lands. In a very non-honey 1988, Roger Delon's hives produced 20-22 kg of honey, and dadans located in the same area - 2 kg each.

However, beekeeping in the hive of Roger Delon can be compared in terms of complexity and requirements for the professionalism of a beekeeper with caring for a canary or a budgerigar released into the garden in the spring. Labor costs for working with many small frames also increase in comparison with the Dadan hive by 3-4 times. At the same time, in flat places with bursts of flowering honey plants, the climatic conditions are not so extreme, but even there the bees do not have time to take all the available nectar and pollen, and from an excess of bribe they begin to steal honey, instead of thoroughly exploring the surrounding honey areas. Therefore, we often offer for sale as alpine hives the hives of V. Khomich and Varre, modified for flat conditions, based on the same principles.

The hive of Khomich differs from the hive of Roger Delon in the body height increased to 220 mm, which reduces the number of frames with the same total area. The Varre hive has already been converted to a non-standard wooden frame of reduced height and increased width, see the drawings in fig. on right; it is even more easily confused with the Langstroth-Root hive. The honey flow from these hives in bad years is less than from the prototype, but this is due to the lower productivity of honey plants. In the mountains, its significance acquires fantastic values ​​due to the transparency of the air, moderate temperature and high insolation.

Ozerov and others.

From time to time, among beekeepers, interest flares up in the Ozerov and Lupanov hive under a frame enlarged to 500x500 mm. In the conditions of Central Russia with a long, but rather sluggish flowering of not very productive honey plants, it, according to the authors' intention, should have given the same effect as Roger Delon's hive in the mountains. But it was smooth on paper. A frame of 500x500 is far from optimal for the development of a productive bee colony (are there many dry warm hollows half a meter in diameter?) and instead of increased marketability in hives for large frames, there is the allocation of side colonies, walking bees and stealing honey.

How to make beehives

The method of assembling frames for hives is shown above. The assembly of hive sections from the point of view of carpentry is somewhat complicated only by the need to choose folds at the top and bottom. At the top, the rebate is selected both inside and outside, see fig. The outer folds provide a detachable connection of the sections during the assembly of the hive, and the hangers of the frames rest on the inner fold. If it is not possible to use a milling machine, the folds can be exactly selected with a special folded planer - a sherhebel. Hives are assembled on nails: you need a lot of screws of various calibers for the apiary, they will cost a lot, and they will not add strength to the hives.

Hangers in a poorly maintained hive can stick to the rebate, which is why enthusiasts are constantly suggesting non-rebate hanger designs. But in fact, it turns out that the side gaps of all of them “walk”, which is why the frames are no longer glued with hangers, but with sidewalls, which is much more serious. In general, the best foldless suspension is the correct timely care of the hive.

What are hives made of?

Traditionally, hives are made from seasoned non-resinous spruce, chamber or room dry, i.e. up to 8% humidity. In the air, then it will not completely dampen, because. from the inside it will be saturated with the vapors of bee bread, honey and the secretions of the bees themselves. Frames are made from the same spruce, but the best material for them is linden. Linden wood is light, which is why the whole hive is lighter, and very viscous, it does not prick under nails.

MDF is similar in properties to linden, but, as far as is known, no one has yet tried to make frames from MDF. Beekeepers are conservative people, and for good reason. However, MDF is not at all chipboard or fiberboard, it exudes gaseous products (“gassing”) even less than linden. More precisely, it does not gas at all: it completely lacks synthetic binders. MDF is obtained by pressing wood pulp at an elevated temperature, resulting in almost pure lignin. On the expiration of phenol-containing compounds, etc. MDF is not certified, because it is not necessary. In general, an MDF hive frame is perhaps the only thing a beginner beekeeper can experiment with.

plastic hives

Recently, hives made of various types of plastics have been actively promoted on the market. The Finnish polystyrene beehive, see fig., is quite popular due to its relatively low cost and immediate readiness for work: set it, put the frame in, and you can move in a family. Also, the absolute advantage of polystyrene foam hives is negligible heat loss, but it is worthwhile and worthwhile to understand in more detail with their other features.

The popularity of Finnish beehives has given rise to numerous attempts to make do-it-yourself foam beehives, but this is not at all the same thing. Styrofoam is the trade name for expanded polystyrene foam. The last phrase is not a tautology; not expressing the same thing in other words.

Expanded polystyrene as a raw material goes on sale in polystyrene granules saturated with dissolved gases. In the production of foam products, they are poured into a mold, which is heated to 80-90 degrees; in artisanal conditions - immersing the form in hot water. Gases are released, the granules swell, fill the mold tightly and stick together; on the surface and on the cut of the foam, its cellular structure is clearly visible.

Styrofoam material is very fragile, and advice to make beehives out of it, fastening plates ... with self-tapping screws, this is not even funny. The styrofoam hive will settle down simply when being carried, even before it is filled with honey. And molding foam at home from granules is not realistic: a form to which foaming granules would not stick is expensive.

According to another method, the granules are foamed separately and a hot viscous foamy mass is pressed (extruded) into a mold, this is the so-called. extruded polystyrene foam, XPS. XPS is much stronger than styrofoam and it is possible to extrude hive sections from it. But - only at a properly equipped enterprise.

However, that's not all. The overall strength of XPS is higher than that of many types of wood, but local (for scratching, cutting, pressing with something sharp) is much less. Therefore, if the hive is made of EPPS, it is impossible to remove the stuck frame from it without damaging the hive itself. In the same way, mechanical cleaning of the polystyrene foam hive is also impossible.

And that is not all. XPS, as well as its more durable and expensive substitutes (polyurethane, polycarbonate), are not absolutely resistant to ultraviolet radiation, temperature fluctuations, and precipitation. A protective paint/film increases its durability, but claims of a service life of ... 30 years are also not funny from the point of view of the most reckless marketing.

And that's not all either. Yes, plastics do not absorb condensate, it flows down in a plastic hive, from where it is discharged. But it is always warmer in a populated hive than outside. In a wooden hive, condensate is immediately absorbed without evaporating back, and diffuses outward - the dew point always shifts to the cold (more precisely, less warm) side. Therefore, the microclimate in a wooden hive, under the same external conditions, is more favorable for bees than in plastic ones, especially since in the latter there is no outflow of air through the walls.

And that's still not all. Almost any plastic, and especially XPS, when heated and under the influence of the slightest impurities of volatile organic substances in the air, gasses, which is not useful for bees, honey, or its consumers. Experiments with heaters have shown that XPS boards, tightly immured in building structures, seriously decrease in volume over several years, releasing droplets of styrene, a viscous yellowish liquid with a specific odor. There is more than enough volatile organic matter in the atmosphere of the hive.

Note: hence another argument against plastic hives follows - disinfection / disinsection, for example. against a tick, and treatment of bees in them by spraying preparations is impossible, and medicinal syrups are very problematic.

These circumstances are of little concern to the Finns: in the local climatic and economic conditions, disposable hives for disposable bee colonies pay off very well. Moreover, a considerable, if not the main share of the income of Finnish beekeepers comes from the sale of wax for technical purposes. Which the Finns, by the way, are of excellent quality. But beekeepers who specialize in the production of food and medicinal bee products subject polystyrene foam hives to harsh and well-founded criticism, see for example. track. video about Shapkin's hive.

Video: about Shapkin's hive

About warming hives

From the foregoing, it follows that it is also undesirable to insulate plywood hives with foam plastic, and this is true. For insulation of hives, it is better to use foam - foamed polyethylene (PE). PE definitely does not gas, because. only chemically attacked by strong acids and alkalis, it is resistant in the open air. Think about the problems with plastic waste.

Penolon is produced in sheets up to 12 mm thick, so several layers of it will be needed to insulate the hive. It is not necessary to insulate the hive over the entire surface, turning it into a thermos: for a normal wintering of the bee colony, some heat exchange between the space of the hive and the environment is necessary. The scheme and method of plywood hive insulation are shown in fig.

When choosing foam for hive insulation, you need to request a specification or a certificate for it from the manufacturer and make sure that the base is high-pressure PE, suitable for the manufacture of parts, incl. medical equipment. In the production of low-pressure PE (otherwise called catalytic PE), a cadmium catalyst is used. Its traces in the finished product are negligible, but cadmium and its compounds are highly toxic carcinogens of the highest degree of danger with a cumulative effect. Once upon a time, low-pressure PE household dishes were labeled "For non-food products and substances", but now "alternative" suppliers hide the mention of the method of obtaining their PE away in the paper.

Finally

So, which hive to start with? Completely without experience or, if the apiary is intended primarily for pollination, from a beehive-lounger. In the latter case, it is possible to use a Ukrainian sunbed without a store, and then it is better to entrust beekeeping and honey collection to a visiting beekeeper.

If you have bothered to prepare in advance theoretically and in general imagine what bees are and how to handle them, it is better to make the Dadan hive first. By increasing it, you can eventually move on to commercial beekeeping without increasing the area under the apiary.

When you become more skilled, the Varre or Khomich hive will be the best choice. With them, again, without expanding the apiaries and without attracting assistants, it is possible to achieve such a profitability and marketability of the apiary that one can think about switching to professionals and one's own industrial apiary from the Langstroth-Root hives.

They are accustomed to hiding their homes in hollows or dense crowns of trees. Therefore, in order for insects to acclimatize faster in a new environment, experienced ones are trying to create optimal conditions for bees to reproduce and create delicious food. In this article, you will learn how to create a beehive with your own hands, what materials are better to take for bee housing and arrangement options.

Basic structural elements

Before you create a design sketch, you need to know what the beehive consists of. This is due to the fact that the beekeeper is trying to create housing for insects that supports their biological needs. However, this design will not always be convenient for bees.
Mostly, all hive structures consist of a body, two compartments, a lid and a magazine. Outwardly, it looks like an elongated box with a dense roof and bottom.

The buildings are made up of walls. Dimensions depend on the type of construction. There may be several. There are bee nests on the walls.

The store may not be necessary, however, it is suitable for preservation when honey collection occurs. There is also a liner (another version of the store, but without notches). It is located between the roof and the top. It serves as a heater. You can also install a feeder for bees in the liner.

The bottom is located under the body and can be removable and non-removable. The first option allows you to properly care for the bees if they need medical attention. The non-removable one forms a ledge that serves as a landing pad.
Some beekeepers make a ceiling that will keep the heat inside the hive. You can place it at the top of the nest above the frames.

The roof is protection and the main element of the hive. It is able to shelter insects from atmospheric phenomena. The roof is flat and gable. The first allows you to transport the hive.

The frame serves to arrange honeycombs for bees. It consists of a top and bottom bar, as well as two side bars. The frames are equipped with dividers and are located in the bar on top.

How to choose materials and tools for creating

To create a hive, only natural and high-quality materials are used. In the following sections, you will be able to understand what are needed to build a nest, as well as learn the advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials.

Most popular content

The first and quite popular material for creating a hive is wood. It breathes well and lets steam out. Basically, choose wood, such as, and. You can also take poplar, or aspen. Wood has a low level of thermal conductivity, protecting bees in hot and cold weather.

Important! For the manufacture of hives, choose a material that does not have rotten areas, knots and cracks.

The only drawback of this material is the ability to retain moisture that enters the hive.

Plywood hives are characterized as environmentally friendly and durable. They are quite heavy and carry transport well. Plywood is superior to wood in terms of thermal insulation and dryness.
To do this, plywood needs to be coated with special acrylic paint and the walls of the hive should be insulated with polystyrene foam.

In such hives, bees spend less energy on heating, because all the comfortable conditions for living and producing honey are already created inside.

Many beekeepers choose Styrofoam because it is cheap and has a high level of thermal insulation. It is easy to work with and carry out repairs.
The only disadvantages of this material are low strength characteristics and an unpleasant aftertaste of honey, as bees can taste polystyrene foam.

If you want to produce honey, but you don't have much money, you can make a hive out of polystyrene. The design turns out to be quite light, retains heat in winter and maintains coolness in summer.

The only drawback is the painting of the finished hive to protect the foam from atmospheric phenomena.
polyurethane foam used to insulate buildings. It has a low level of thermal conductivity, but this property will be useful for creating a hive. Polyurethane foam does not allow moisture to pass through, does not rot, does not react to solvents and protects the nest from germs and fungi. The material is strong enough, and mice will not be able to damage it.

The only drawback is flammability. But this can be corrected with an additional ventilation system.

Polycarbonate is strong, lightweight and durable. The material is suitable for keeping insects, as it withstands low and high temperatures, it is not afraid of exposure to direct sun.
Inside the nest made of this material, an optimal microclimate for bees will be maintained.

List of bee house building tools

To create a hive, you will need the following tools:

• Axe
• Hacksaws of different sizes
• Hammer
• Drills
• jointer
• Bit
• planer
• Marking tool
• power tools
• Angle spikes
• PVA glue"
• Nesting frame (can be borrowed from an experienced beekeeper).

How to make a beehive with your own hands

Now that you have chosen the best material for yourself and collected all the necessary tools, let's get down to the most important thing. In the following sections, you will learn how to build a bee hive from different materials.

Wooden

For the manufacture of the hive, choose wooden boards with a moisture content that fluctuates around 15-16%. Depending on the number and size of the case, the amount of material is also selected. Drawings are best taken from experienced beekeepers.

Important! Adhere to the basic parameters of the main elements to simplify operation.

Housing on the beehive

You will also need boards 4 cm thick for the manufacture of the bottom and body. We make grooves in the boards to connect the walls of the case.

We produce strips measuring 18x4 mm.

We connect the boards into shields, lubricating the grooves with PVA glue. It is very important to press them tightly against each other so that gaps do not form.
And so we do 4 walls. It is necessary to assemble the body in the form of shields, which can be connected with the help of tongue and groove and casein glue. The dimensions of the rear and front walls are 605x320 mm. Side walls - 530x320 mm. In the side walls we make grooves 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide.

Important! Distance between slots-450 mm.

Let's start creating the back and front walls. They should be collected in temporary shields from boards (thickness - 15mm). Wall dimensions - 675x500 mm. The dimensions of the outer side walls are 560x500 mm.

On a permanent place, the boards of the outer walls must be nailed separately in order to properly fit into place. We fix the inner walls with glue, the corners must be fixed strictly straight. The lower edge of the case is best placed horizontally.

Lower and upper trays

The lower tray must be made according to the following dimensions - 1x25 cm, placing it from 5 cm from the right wall of the hive. The upper tray has dimensions of 1x10 cm, it should be placed at a distance of 12 cm from the right wall of the hive. Its height is 3 cm below the edge of the upper bars of the frames.
Frame space

A wedge-shaped hole must be made in the back wall at the level of the bottom to make it easier to deal with varroatosis. It can be closed with an insert (dimensions 45x4 cm).

With the help of holes for trays, you enclose the inter-wall space of the hive with small corridors of planks. Dimensions - 1.5x2 cm.

Parallel to the front inner wall on the body, we will nail the first layer of the floor. The length of the floor is 65 cm. The first board must be positioned so that it protrudes 1 cm beyond the body. On this ledge we make arrival boards. Then we nail the rest of the floor boards. After that, turn the case upside down and lay a layer of cardboard and roofing felt. The next layer of the floor is boards.

External walls

After you have made the floor and nailed the inner walls, install the outer walls. We nail the front and rear from the bottom of the case each. The ends should protrude 2 cm beyond the side inner walls. At this time, lay the insulation between the walls. Holes for the tray should be cut in the front board. There should be a hole in the back wall for the subframe space.

Also, for stability, it is necessary to nail the lining to the corner outer walls.

At the ends of the rear and front walls, which protrude 2 cm beyond the side inner walls, it is necessary to fill the side outer boards with a thickness of 15 cm. Planks 4x2 cm should be nailed along the entire perimeter of the inner walls.

On the slats on the front and back sides of the hive, folds (dimensions 1x1 cm) should be selected to install the frames. Planks must be placed tightly on the insulating material.
Warming material

To fill the inter-wall space, you need to use moss. It should be more dried, as such moss will fill the voids well.

Styrofoam, insulation board, wadding, wool and tow are also used.

Since beekeepers often have to lift the roof and put it back, the product must be light. For this you need a harness. It should be made 12 cm high from boards 15 cm thick.
Above the nest under the roof, it is necessary to leave a free space 24 cm high. In this place we place a store on a half-frame and a heating pad.

Pillow

The pillow is placed between the sides on the canvas so that it fits snugly against the walls of the side.

The pillow occupies 1 cm above the nest. Dimensions - 75x53. The thickness of the padding is 10 cm. Moss can also be used, but it is best used to insulate the side walls.

Entrance for bees

It is necessary to leave 1 cm between the bottom and the lower edge of the housing for the passage of bees and ventilation in winter.

Did you know? It is better to paint the hive white, as this color is better remembered by insects.

Styrofoam

To make a foam hive, you will need foam sheets, self-tapping screws (5 cm), fine sandpaper, water-based paint, liquid nails, a paint roller, a ruler, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a clerical knife and a circular saw.

Important! All hive objects are connected in the same way as the wooden bases of a bee nest.

The foam sheets should be of the following dimensions - 3x5 cm. On paper, we prepare a sketch of the design and transfer it to the foam using a marker and a ruler.

We cut out the design with a clerical knife, saw or hacksaw for metal. We clean the edges with sandpaper.
We fasten the side walls with overlaps (at the joints we cut out quarters and tightly drive the walls into each other). We fix the elements with liquid nails.

To fix the result, use self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Polyurethane

For the body you will need 8 metal plates. Four plates will form the outer contour, and the remaining four - the inner. Spacers must be installed between opposite inner plates. External tiles should be bolted together.

Metal plates must be screwed to the inner sides of the outer tiles, forming recesses for gripping in the body.

The base and cover are made with grooves. Plates will be inserted into them. Strips of metal are applied along the edges and the parts are connected with bolts.

Holes should be drilled along the inner and outer perimeter of the body and cover. Threaded metal rods will be inserted into them during assembly.

Bolts should be screwed onto the rods, holding the entire structure firmly. In the lid, holes should be made for pouring the mixture and a valve with a plug. They will close this hole. Bottom and roof

For the roof you need 2 rectangular parts. One should have protruding sides along the edges, the other - a protruding rectangular interior.

The bottom is a rectangular frame with a metal mesh in the middle. It is made from individual polyurethane foam bars. You can fasten them with bolts.

You should have 4 molds for the bars. In all bars, you need to put a strip of metal around the inner perimeter, which will form folds. We lay on them and nail a metal mesh with a stapler.

The front bar is best placed lower in height to get a slot for the tray. After casting with a cutter, we select the grooves in the inner side walls for the bottom valve. It is cut out of polycarbonate. We also place the rear bar lower in height to insert the valve into this slot. Preparation of a mixture of polyurethane foam

This material is obtained as a result of the reactions of a polyol and a polyisoconate.

When pouring the mixture, you need to correctly calculate the total mass for the process. This can be done by calculating the volume of the hive part: multiply it by the width, thickness and length. The resulting amount must be multiplied by the technological loss factor (1.15) and the estimated density of polyurethane foam (60 kg / m2).

After processing, we assemble the form. The inner plates are installed in the grooves of the base, and plastic corners should be placed inside the plates, which will serve as folds for the frames. Corners can be fixed with a thick thread.

We install and fix them with screws and braces of the internal strut. Then we install the outer plates and fix them with bolts, placing the top of the mold with grooves on the walls. We twist it all with metal rods.

In this form, we fill the polyurethane foam mixture into the holes, but not completely, as it expands. As soon as the foam begins to appear from the hole, the mold must be closed with a valve.

In the same way, we fill the molds for the lid and bottom. After pouring the mold for the lid, pour a small amount of gravel into it so that the lid holds steady against gusts of wind.

The mixture hardens within 30 minutes. After that, unscrew the bolts that hold the rods. Using a wooden block and a hammer, knock down the top of the mold.

After that, we unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, doing it little by little so as not to deform the structure. So we go through two circles on all the bolts, after which we remove the spacers.
Parts of the mold are cleaned of polyurethane foam particles, and excess along the edges of the body can be removed with a sharp knife. After that, the structure is cleaned with a fine-grained sandpaper.

Then we cover the product with facade acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet radiation. Such a coating will not be disturbed by temperature changes.

Coloring occurs within a week after production, but not earlier than 8 hours later.

Hive arrangement

Now you need to start building a hive for bees.

In the American way of breeding bees in the apiary, 5 types of insect colonies are created: maternal, paternal, starter, incubator and foster family. For this method, you need to have a 24-frame hive-bed, a notch, two diaphragms that will move freely in the hive, one blind diaphragm with a rubber band, one diaphragm with a dividing grid. A feeder and pillows are also needed.
In autumn or spring we populate a family with a good breeding queen. In the fall, they are fed with honey and treated for varroatosis and prophylaxis with anti-nosema drugs. spring

3 years ago

New!!! Router lift in this table: Part 1 - https://youtu.be/RA4-75ijmWg Part 2 - https://youtu.be/GHqP4Wceu08 April 2015. Continuation of the topic: table for Bosch 1400 ACE hand router. This time I finally made a cabinet for the milling table - a cabinet, a frame, a table base, whatever ..) The most important thing is that the milling table is now independent and does not need workbenches or anything else. I didn’t bother with the pedestal and essentially made a frame, but quite durable and stable for working on a milling table. In the future, you can make walls out of plywood, make shelves. But this is still in question, because how is it possible that I will make a system for lifting the router (cutter over the surface of the table) using a car jack (as many have already done), for this I will need full access under the table top, from all sides of the cabinet. So for now, it's just a framework. I also made a switch with a socket for my milling table and now it has become very convenient to use it, and at the same time I didn’t have to cut the plug at the device, because. it will be needed more than once as a manual router 🙂 I made a bracket for fixing the table in a raised position in order to adjust the reach with both hands or, in fact, to replace the cutter itself. It's not over yet. There will be videos about clamps for the milling table, guides, side carriage and I don’t even know what yet ... The topic is rich 😉 First part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CiOU66Sers Second part: http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF7BVRbK4hE THANK YOU FOR WATCHING AND SUBSCRIBE!!! http://maximkozlov.ru

PHOTO HIVES KALINKA LLC

Good day, dear visitors!

This section of our website is a photo gallery where you can see photos of the entire range of Kalinka LLC hives “without embellishment”, that is, photos are posted here without any processing, so that each of you, even without being able to come and look at the hives “live”, however, could see the product “as it is”. We have nothing to hide, so we hope you enjoy our photo tour.

Below are photos of Dadan-Blatt hives. We produce them in two types: for 10 frames and for 12. You can install as many cases as you need. Convenient recesses are made on the sides of the hulls in order to make it easier to remove them. On each hull, entrance barriers for 4 functions are installed on the entrances.

Do-it-yourself beehive

They are included in the basic package of hives. In one of the photos, there are canvases on the hive, which can also be bought from us at the enterprise.

Here is a retractable anti-varroatous bottom with a special mesh can be installed on any of the hives. It is not included in the basic package of hives, but is installed at the request of the buyer. On the site in the article "Antivarroatous bottom" you can see a video that tells about its structure and how and for what it is used.

Photo of the hives of Kalinka LLP at the agro-industrial exhibition-fair.

If you are interested in our products, you can always call and place an order. The beehives of Kalinka LLP can be purchased not only in branded stores in Moscow and St. Petersburg, but also to place an order in any city in Russia with delivery to the apiary.

PS: If you need a small number of hives, then in order to reduce delivery costs, you can team up with other beekeepers from neighboring apiaries and make a single order, then the delivery cost is about 200-300 rubles per hive.

Interesting on the topic:

Benefits of Kalinka LLP hives (video)

Prices for hives and beekeeping equipment

Hive-lounger. How to build it with your own hands

A bee hive is an artificially made housing for bees. For a long time, bees lived on tree branches, in crowns, hollows, in rock crevices, in pits and stumps, under the roofs of houses. Later, people began to tame honey plants, sitting them in non-separable hives - sapets, hollows. Well, now bee colonies live in frame hives, which you can buy in a special store or make yourself if you have the time, desire and necessary tools.

Today we will devote our article to how to make a bee hive? This question is asked by all beginner beekeepers. First you need to take a closer look at this design in order to understand what you have to deal with. Nowadays, the hives of Dadan Blat and Langstroth-ruth are the most common with some modifications and changes. Beekeepers have heard of another name - the Alpine hive or Roger Delon's hive in another way (with a reduced frame). There are other bee houses - Lapunov and Ozerov with an enlarged frame, hives with glass, and some still use old decks.

Any hive consists of the following parts:

Frame- hive walls. The cases are different in size, in the hives there is one case or several, depending on the type of construction. Each case on the inside has parallel grooves for the hangers of the frames. In some types of hives, the grooves for the frames are placed in a different way, but they are difficult to make on your own. In addition to the grooves, the body may have tapholes. If the hive has a removable bottom, then the notch is made above the middle, round, with a diameter of 25 to 35 mm. If the bottom is nailed to the lower body, then a slotted notch is made with a width of 100 mm and a length of 10-20 mm. All these indicators depend on what kind of hive is made and what the beekeeper wants to make.

Bottom- there is an inseparable and detachable. It is better to create hives with the last type of bottom, because in this case it will be easier to take care of the bees: you can quickly clean the nest, it is easy to work with the bodies without touching the frames (this is an important part of many methods), and if necessary, carry out the necessary treatment of bee colonies. The integral bottom is simply nailed to the bottom of the body so that it protrudes slightly from the front edges - the formed ledge serves as a landing area for the bees.

The shops- these are hive bodies shortened in height.

We make a beehive for bees with our own hands

They are an optional part of the design and are used to store honey during honey collection to facilitate the work of the beekeeper. In addition, they are very convenient to use in weak families that do not collect large stocks of honey.

liner- this is a store, but without recesses for frames. It is placed between the upper body and the roof. It helps to improve the living conditions of bees during migration, you can put a feeder in it or place insulating material. Some beekeepers put it under the lower body, thereby creating a space under the frame, which has a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the nest during wintering.

Roof- made of strapping (sometimes beekeepers make ventilation holes in it) and a flat shield (plywood, boards). Top with a thin sheet of iron. It is put on the body (liner, magazine) in a quarter or in a hood.

Framework- we will talk about them a little later. One has only to say that the frames come in different sizes, depending on the type of hive.

Drawings for hives

All frame hives are similar in design, but vary in size. The dimensions of the hive primarily depend on the number of frames that will be used in this hive, their size. The size of the bee house also depends on the thickness of the walls. As a rule, for hives with a frame of 300, a board 40 wide is used, with a frame of 230 - 30. According to GOST, the recommended board thickness per frame is 300 - 37 mm, since wood is processed from standard 40 mm to 37. There are designs with double walls, and others drawings with different dimensions are sufficient. This happens because the regions where bees are grown are different, have different conditions, and each beekeeper has his own opinion on the care of families, which he adheres to. So it is difficult to name any specific sizes.

To remember from the whole mass of information about drawings for hives, you need the following:

1. the width of the hive directly depends on the number of frames and is equal to the number of frames multiplied by 37.5 mm;
2. the length of the hive directly depends on the length of the frame itself (from the left side bar to the right, including the dimensions of the bars themselves). It is equal to "frame length plus 14 mm";
3. the height of the hive is determined by the formula "the height of the folds plus the height of the frame."

Everything else in the construction of hives is done at the request of the beekeeper. Of course, each species has its own drawings and rules. Consider, for example, the fairly well-known structure "beehive-lounger". This bee house is a frame horizontal hive. It resembles an elongated box with a nailed bottom and a removable roof. During the period of family growth, frames are added to the side of this structure in which the uterus lays eggs. This hive has stores that are used during honey collection. The lounger allows you to keep next to the main family and a backup, with a spare queen. The hive-lounger for 16 and 20 frames has become widespread. The dimensions of the house with 16 frames are 615x450x330 mm. A 35 mm bottom shield protrudes beyond the front wall. The extension is constructed with a height of 165 mm, the wall thickness is the same as that of the walls of the body, there are also 16 frames in it. The dimensions of the beehive lounger for 20 frames are 810x450x330. If you think that this type of bee house suits you, then we present you a drawing of a lounger hive, which shows all its most common sizes:

How to make hive frames

And now it’s worth talking about the frames, or rather about their manufacture, because if you made the hive yourself, then you will make the frames very quickly. The hive frame is considered one of the most important elements in a bee home. Its standard dimensions for a double-hull hive are 435x300 mm. They need to be made from linden, as it does not crack when the structure is hammered together. But this material has one drawback - it absorbs moisture and increases in weight. For this reason, experienced beekeepers advise making frames from spruce wood, the main condition is that it should not be resinous.

When creating a frame, it is worth making sure that there is a distance of no more than 9 mm between the bottom and the lower bars of the frames. Such a passage for bees is the most optimal. If it is larger, then insects will begin to build it up. Between the wall of the hive and the side bar should be from 8 to 10 mm. If the distance is less, then the bees will fill it with propolis, if more, they will build up honeycombs. If all dimensions are met exactly, then it will be easy to get the frames.

For more information about creating a frame, see the video below:

I would like to note that in the created bee house it is necessary to maintain conditions that are most optimal for the bees in your region. The hive is not just a dwelling or a means of production. It's all together - a house and a bee factory that supplies some of the most useful products in the world.

Hive device for bees

Every beekeeper knows that wild bees live in natural hives: a hollow tree, under a roof, etc. But if you decide to engage in beekeeping, then you will need to make a lot of effort in order to equip bee housing. The device of a hive for bees begins with the collection of useful information about the types of hives, the materials that are needed for construction, from approximate drawings.

Hive device for bees

What types are hives?

Before you start building a beehive, you need to understand what kind of design you want to get as a result. The fact is that today the most practical types are considered to be the following:

1. The hive is horizontal. The beekeeper can expand it by setting up additional buildings.
2. The vertical hive is a 2-3-tier structure, on each tier of which there are about 10 frames. You can expand the vertical structure by adding new tiers.

Also, the hives are conditionally divided by the types of frames, because the frames are the main element of the whole structure. Depending on the width and height, they are square, narrow-high or, conversely, low-wide.

What material is best to make a hive?

The material for the hive is a very important topic. The bees may simply not like their house, and the beekeeper will be forced to redo it.

Today there are a huge number of different materials on the market, but not all of them are suitable for the hive.

Wood is a win-win. It is better to purchase coniferous wood, such as pine, spruce, fir, etc. Before working, make sure that there is no rot or mold on the wood. Note that the tree has one minus, this is the increased humidity inside the hive.

To equip a bee house, choose boards 5 mm larger than required by the design. They will shrink in size as you grind. The boards need to be carefully planed so that there are no chips, roughness, protruding chips on them.

Plywood is another great option. It is an environmentally friendly material that is durable. Beekeepers say that plywood, in its characteristics, surpasses even wood in terms of thermal insulation.

To make a beehive from plywood, it is necessary to cover its outer walls with a layer of acrylic varnish, and put polystyrene foam inside the house. By the way, hives are also made from the latter, which are characterized by fragility and fragility.

It is possible to make such a plywood hive only according to the drawing, it will become optimal for the comfortable life of insects.

Polycarbonate is a hard plastic that cannot be affected by climatic conditions. Differs in stability, durability, does not suffer from decay, a fungus, well washes.

Polyurethane foam can act as a heater, which does not rot and is not covered with a fungus, mice do not gnaw it.

Do-it-yourself hive: video, drawings, sizes of frames and hives

Its main disadvantage is combustibility, and when insulating the hive with polyurethane foam, be sure to design a small ventilation system.

Bee hive device

The hive consists of the following elements fastened into a single structure:

• bottom (wood or mesh) and ceiling, front, rear and side walls;
• liner, insulating pillow, canvas;
• planks and linings for them, folds;
• gable roof and roof trim;
• ventilation hole;
• notch, arrival board, nesting frame;
• waste tray or tray;
• glass for observing bees and a board that closes the glass if necessary.

How the hive works: dimensions and additional details

Proper sizing is fundamental to building the right hive. The beekeeper involved in the construction must observe the dimensions with great accuracy. We provide universal sizes for all hives that you can use as a basis:

• The distance between adjacent frames is 3.75 cm.
• Streets subject to a honeycomb thickness of 25 cm - 1.25 cm.
• During the installation of the second case or additional store, a gap of 1 cm is made between the upper bars and the lower bars.
• The space between the front and rear walls and the side rails should be 0.75 cm.
• The space between the bottom bar and the bottom is 2 cm.

Deviation from dimensions is allowed within 0.1 cm. If there is a large discrepancy with the dimensions, other structural elements will have to be adjusted, and the hive will no longer be composed of equivalent parts that you can replace in the future.

How to assemble a hive: instructions

So, all the elements are ready, and the drawings are drawn. It's time to collect the hive. Start assembly by preparing four walls, machined and cut in accordance with the drawing. One of the front walls is connected to two side walls, after which the last wall is fixed. After that, the side frames are attached to the side panels of the hive, then the wood or mesh floor is attached. And on the front wall you need to cut a notch.

The design is knocked together, set on the floor and a pillow with a canvas is reported, covering everything with a lid. Pillow and canvas are necessary for temperature control. The bottom of the hive is best made of galvanized material, it should be removable, which will facilitate the transportation of the hives. And for the manufacture of frames, choose a good, but not resinous tree.

Do not forget about the feeder, which is most often made from nomadic netting. In winter, at low temperatures, the hives are heated with electrical appliances with a power of not more than 10 watts.

Summing up, it is worth saying that the independent production of hives requires great attention and strict adherence to the drawing. It must be remembered that the hive must be comfortable for insects in all respects: not hot and not cold, without chemical odors that some synthetic materials emit, with a normal ventilation system.

http://medovoemesto.ru

The honey bee spends a lot of energy on repulsing the attacks of enemies, but it is not always possible to repel the attack. In this case, the enemy, a red tick of the species Verroa, clung to the thoracic region of the drone.

• KEY FACTS
• Name: honey bee (Apis mellifera)
• Range: Europe, Western Asia and Africa; in other regions of Asia, as well as in America and Australia, it is distributed by humans.
• Number in a typical hive: 10,000 to 60,000 worker bees; uterus; at certain times of the year a small number of drones and young queens.
• Stages of development: egg, larva, pupa, adult.
• Lifespan: 21 days of development from egg to adult; In summer, the worker bee lives for about 30 days.

The bee colony has a strict social organization, in which all the work in the hive, such as building honeycombs for the queen's eggs and food storage, or collecting nectar, is done by worker bees.

There are about 20,000 species of bees, but only about 800 of them are truly social (eusocial). Striking details of the organization of their community (family) can be learned by observing the life of a honey bee, or domestic bee (Apis mellifera).

History of bees

The honey bee is an evolutionarily successful social insect that originally lived in Europe, Africa, and Western Asia. Wild honey bees make their nests in natural cavities and shelters: hollows of old trees, depressions in the ground or rock crevices. Man provides them with artificial housing - beehives.

When nesting in a natural cavity, honey bees build double-sided sheets of wax from wax that are attached to the ceiling of the cavity. The hexagonal cells that form the honeycomb are made from wax secreted by the glands located on the abdomen of the bee.

A queen checking a cell before placing one of the 2,000 eggs she lays in a day. The sex of the future bee depends on which egg the queen has laid.

The distance between adjacent sheets of combs (the so-called "bee space") is usually from 6 to 9 mm - quite enough for the movement of bees on their surface. Beekeepers try to recreate similar conditions in the hive by installing removable frames in it, the distance between which is also equal to the bee space. The base of the honeycombs is attached to the frame, on which the bees build cells.

Breeding

Honeybees use cells of honeycombs for two purposes: as containers for storing food (honey and plant pollen) and for breeding offspring (brood). In nature, bees tend to fill the honeycomb cells in a certain order. Cells with eggs are located in the center and at the bottom of the combs, and honey is stored in the upper and side cells. Cells with pollen are located between cells with eggs and honey. In the hive, however, the combs in the lower boxes contain mostly brood, while the upper boxes contain only honey and pollen. This distribution of the contents of the cells is due to the fact that the lower and upper sections of the hive are separated by a wire mesh, called the queen limiter. Its cells are large enough to allow the worker bee to pass through, but too small for the queen to pass through. As a result, the queen is confined to the lower section of the hive, where she lays her eggs, and the beekeeper can remove the top boxes of honey-filled combs without disturbing the queen. In hives, honey bees live in the same highly organized community as in nature. Most of the bees are worker bees, females with underdeveloped genitals, in some hives there are up to 60-80 thousand of them. The uterus is also a female, but with fully formed genitals. Its sole function is to lay eggs, all worker bees come from eggs laid by a single queen. In spring and summer, the queen also lays a small number of eggs, from which males, called drones, emerge. The drones don't work, and they don't have the sting that the worker bees use to protect the hive from enemies. Their only purpose is to mate with the queens, after which they die.

Queen's life

The queen of honey bees lives for about 5 years, during this time from spring to autumn she lays about 2000 eggs every day. When a colony of wild honey bees grows too large in spring, it divides into two parts (swarming). At the same time, the queen leaves the nest and flies away with about 70 percent of the worker bees.

When the weather permits, the worker bee can move up to 11 km from the hive every day in search of nectar and pollen. This work is usually done by older bees, whose life is already coming to an end.

The worker bees left in the nest grow a new queen, after which the colony begins to grow very quickly. However, bees bred in hives do not create swarms. With an increase in their number, beekeepers add additional sections to the hives, thereby reducing the overcrowding of the hive.

Unlike the queen, worker bees live for about 30 days in summer and up to 6 months in winter. The worker bee develops in a closed cell in 21 days, passing through three stages: egg (about three days), larva (about seven days) and pupa (11 days). On the last day of development, the bee, with the help of its mandibles, destroys the wax cover that closed the cell, and immediately begins to work. According to her age, she performs various tasks. A young bee spends almost all the time in the hive: first, it cleans the cells of the combs, then takes care of the offspring, feeds the queen, and builds or repairs the cells.

Somewhat later, she moves closer to the exit from the hive and works as a food acceptor, taking nectar and pollen from foraging bees returning to the hive, or becomes a guard bee, protecting the hive from strangers. Finally, at the last stage of her life, she becomes a forager, flying away in search of water, nectar and pollen at a distance of up to 11 km from the hive. Guarding the hive and foraging for food are the most dangerous jobs, so they are performed by "elderly" bees approaching the end of their lives.

Honey bee worker bees dipping their heads into honeycomb cells. Their name speaks of their functions in the family. They do all the work both inside and outside the hive: rearing the young, collecting nectar and pollen, cleaning and protecting the hive.

Labor and conflicts

Life in the hive is well organized, with each individual primarily taking care of the family.

In good weather, forager bees fly away from the hive for water, nectar and pollen. If they find nectar-rich patches of untouched flowers, they take the nectar and return to the hive without delay to report the find to their female relatives remaining in the hive and thus increase the number of foragers in that rich patch. If you have the opportunity to observe the surface of the combs, for example, through the glass wall of the research hive, then you can see how the returned bee, surrounded by "spectators", moves up and down the combs, describing the eight, the so-called. "wagging dance". With this dance, one of the most complex forms of communication in the animal world, the bee informs the audience about the direction in which the rich source of food is located, and about the distance to it. Such information is especially important when the stocks of poverty in the family are small.

Beehives in Bavaria (Germany). When such a structure overflows with bees, the beekeeper adds additional sections, thereby preventing the swarm from flying out.

Gatherers can become aware of depleted food supplies. The “unloading” by the receiving bees of the pickers returning from distant feeders does not take much time. On the other hand, if a forager has to wait for a long time for the help of the receivers, this indicates the simultaneous return of many foragers with a large amount of nectar, i.e., an increase in food supplies. In spring and summer, any food that is not consumed immediately is stored in honeycombs. It will be needed in winter or when bad weather will not allow you to collect nectar. Over time, the nectar stored in the comb turns into honey.

Pheromones

Another well-known example of the collective action of bees is the defense of the hive. Whenever a threat arises, guard bees release alarm substances or pheromones, catching which, the defenders gather at the entrance, and each tries to hit the enemy. This is undoubtedly selfless behavior, because, having stinged the enemy, the bee loses its sting and dies. The poison found on the sting of the bee also contains an alarm pheromone that attracts new defenders to the battlefield and stimulates them to attack the enemy.

Worker bees on honeycombs with a queen cell. In the initial period of life, worker bees spend a lot of time caring for the queen and feeding her, as well as building new and repairing old cells.

However, cooperation does not always occur in perfect harmony in a honey bee hive. It is often believed that only the queen can lay eggs in honey bees, but this is not true. Although worker bees cannot mate, they retain a functioning ovary and can lay unfertilized eggs that develop into males. Why do they raise the mother's offspring, and not their own? Ironically, it is not the queen that prevents the worker bees from reproducing; this is done by all the other worker bees.

This moment in the life of the bee colony is called the "working police", it consists in eating by the bees any eggs of their sisters they find. The bees can easily determine which eggs to destroy because the queen marks the eggs she lays with her pheromone.

Do-it-yourself hive for bees: how to make, drawings

Such cannibalism is practiced due to the fact that all the worker bees of the hive have one mother, but during the mating flight she mates with about 30 drones, i.e. the bees have quite a few fathers. This means that any bee is genetically closer to its siblings produced by the queen than to any "nephew" developed from the egg of another worker bee. As a result, each bee prevents the others from breeding and cooperates with them in caring for the queen's offspring. By doing this, honey bees ensure that as many of their own genes as possible are passed on to the next generation of the family.

• Did you know?
• Before starting to lay eggs, the honey bee queen goes on a nuptial flight, and then stores about 5 million spermatozoa, using them all her life. Each time, laying an egg, the uterus determines the sex and type of the future bee. If a worker bee is to develop from an egg, the queen fertilizes it with one of the spermatozoa stored in her body and lays it in a normal-sized cell. If a drone is to develop from an egg, the egg is not fertilized and is deposited in a larger cell. The eggs from which new queens are to form are fertilized and look exactly like the eggs from which worker bees develop, but they are laid in special cells - queen cells, shaped like an acorn, and the larva is fed a special food called royal jelly for the entire period of its development.
• The expression “to work like a bee” is connected with our idea that bees are tireless workers, carrying honey to the hive “tirelessly”. This view is erroneous: each bee rests, remaining on the comb, 80% of the working day.
• To survive the winter months, a honey bee colony needs to stock up on 20 kg of honey.

A good hive must meet the following requirements:

1. The hive should be warm and well protect the bees from sudden changes in temperature, from rain and dampness. In summer, the walls of the hive should not get very warm. If the hive is single-walled - up to its thickness of -30 mm. Double-walled hives - the space between the walls is clogged with moss - cuckoo flax.

2. The hive should be spacious enough to accommodate the brood of a good queen, as well as storing honey and bee bread in it. At the same time, it should be arranged in such a way that, depending on the season, its volume could be increased or decreased, ventilation could be regulated.

In winter, the nest is smaller, the number of frames is reduced. The remaining space should not be empty, it should be filled with insulating pillows and separated by a special diaphragm.

3. The hive should be convenient for work, easily and freely disassembled into its component parts and reassembled, so that during inspections it does not press and does not disturb the bees much.

4. All parts of each hive should be exactly the same in size. This will facilitate the setting up of shops, the rearrangement of frames (or cases), the relocation of families and a number of other works.

Frames of the same size give the beekeeper the opportunity to: 1) if necessary, rearrange the frame from one hive to another; 2) apply the same methods of caring for bees in all families; 3) have beekeeping equipment designed for a frame of a certain standard. The same hives in the apiary will simplify the care of bees and reduce labor and time costs.

6. Hives should have in their design special devices for combating ticks. This is either a removable bottom or a special grid with a pallet.

In Russia, the most common hives of the following designs:
1) single-hull hive or Dadan-Blatt hive, consisting of a bottom, a nest box containing 12 frames, a width of 435 mm and height in 300 mm, one or two stores accommodating 12 frames half the height; often use two buildings with shops;
2) hive-lounger, consisting of one large body, accommodating 16,20 or 24 frames are also sized 435×300 mm (often frames are made in 300 mm wide and 435 mm high - Ukrainian lounger);
3) multi-hull hive, consisting of three to five interchangeable housings of the same size, on 8-10 frames, size 435×230 mm.

Components of the hive

The hive should consist of one or more buildings, a magazine, a roof lining, ceiling boards (or canvas), a bottom, an insert board (diaphragm), a landing board, a stand and nest and magazine frames.

Framework subdivided into nesting and shop. In typical hives, nesting and magazine frames have standard sizes and differ from each other only in height. The height of the nesting frames of single-hull, double-hull hives and sunbeds is -300 mm, magazine frames -145 mm. The height of the frames of multi-hull hives is 230 mm.

The width of the upper bars and lower bars of the frame is 25 mm, the thickness of the side bars is 8 mm, and the bottom bars are 10 mm. The thickness of the upper bar is 20-22 mm. The side bars of the nesting frames in the upper part are expanded to 37 mm, which ensures the normal size of the street and good stability of the frames when transporting bee colonies.


The width of the frame is determined by the following circumstances: the length of the comb is 12 mm, equal to the length of the worker bee. 1 mm - wax thickness.

How to make a Dadan hive with your own hands

12+1+12=25 .

Frame- the main part of the hive, where the nest of bees is located. Hives with two or more bodies are common. The case has the form of a box without a bottom and a roof, in the upper edge of the front and rear walls of which a fold is selected for hanging the nesting frames. In addition to the frames, the body of many hive designs includes diaphragms and a hive partition. On the front wall of the case in its upper part is made notch for entry and exit of bees. In shape, it can be round or in the form of a slit.

If the frames in the hive are placed perpendicular to the entrance - cold drift, if parallel - warm drift.

Bottom hulls, depending on the design, can be nailed to the hull or detachable. It consists of a shield knocked down from boards and a strapping of beams. The front bar has a slot - a lower notch 20 mm high, which is regulated by special liners. At the lower entrance to the front bar of the bottom strapping is attached arrival board for bees.

Roof worn over the body or magazine extension and protects the nest of bees from rain, heat and cold, enemies and pests. The roofs of most typical hives are flat in construction.

liner designed to accommodate the feeder and create a free space above the frame.

Magazine or magazine extension. In height, it is usually half the height of the buildings. The magazine extension fits magazine frames. It is used to increase the volume of the nest, mainly during honey collection. Depending on the size of the honey collection, one or more extensions are placed on the hive.

Shop extensions) are closed from above with a solid ceiling or boards up to 10 mm thick. Often used for this purpose canvases made of loose fabric (burlap).

Diaphragm(separating board). It consists of an upper bar, two side bars and a shield (thin board) fixed between them, 15 mm thick. In height and length, the diaphragm must correspond to the internal dimensions of the housing. D diaphragms necessary to reduce and insulate the nest.

Hive dimensions

In the hives of all systems, the following mandatory dimensions of the "hive rule" are observed: the angles must be strictly 90 0 (from dry wood - fir, aspen); the overframe space (the distance between the top plank and the ceiling planks) should be 10 mm; subframe space (distance between the bottom and the bottom bar of the frame) - 15-20 mm; side space(distance between the side bars of the frame and the front in relation to the notch and the back walls of the hive) - 7.5-8mm; distance between frames - 12 mm; the distance between the central axes of the frames of neighboring cells is 37-38 mm. If there are several bodies in the hive, then the gap between the upper and lower frames should be 10 mm. If it is less, they will cover it with propolis, more - with honeycombs.

How the hives are calculated (standard 12 frame hive)

12+25/2+25/2=37
+0.5 for propolis = 37.5
12 - frame hive 37.5*12=450

When examining and working with bees, the beekeeper needs: a net to protect the face from bee attacks, a smoker, a beekeeper's chisel (for tearing off the frames), a brush for sweeping bees, a box for tools and rotten, a box for transferring honeycombs, a swarm (closed sieve), feeders for feeding bees, pillows for warming the hive - top and side (stuffed with moss); cages for queens (Titova non-metallic), a dividing grid for isolating the uterus (Hoffmann), a board-pattern for waxing honeycombs, a knife for cutting zabrus (lids on sealed combs), a honey extractor (due to centrifugal force - sealed honeycombs with honey are first printed using a special beekeeping knife, then inserted into the honey extractor and rotated), wax melter (metal pan).


Device 12-frame hive with two magazines (dimensions in mm):

1. body, 2 - nest frame (cross section), 3 diaphragm, 4 - magazine, 5 - magazine frame (cross section), 6 - liner, 7 - roof, 8 - upper entrance, 9 lower entrance

Section of the hive body:

1. - frame, 2 - over-frame space -10 mm; 3 - between the frame and the back of the hive 7.5 -8 mm; 4 - bottom of the hive, 5 - subframe space 15-20 mm; 6- between the frame and the front wall of the hive - 8 mm.

Nesting frame (dimensions in mm)

Types of hives: a - single-hull 12-frame with a magazine;
b - two-hull.

Hive-lounger

Multi-hull (four-hull) hive

The invention of the frame hive is a breakthrough in beekeeping. For the first time, Pyotr Ivanovich Prokopovich, a famous Ukrainian and Russian scientist, began to practice the production of evidence. It was he who began to organize the work of bees in order to obtain honey. Previously, the procedure for collecting useful treats led to the ruin of their nests, from which the honeycombs were broken.

Many beekeepers are often faced with the task of making a bee house. In fact, this occupation is very responsible. It is important to take into account all the nuances so that the insects are comfortable. The hive must be made of suitable materials and according to certain rules.

Every self-respecting beekeeper should know how to make a hive with his own hands. There are different configurations of bee hives:

Naturally, each configuration has both advantages and disadvantages. It’s up to the owner to decide which hive to choose and make with their own hands.

The choice of materials for building a bee house

As a rule, insect houses are built from wood and metal sheets used for the roof. This option is close to the natural conditions of life of small honey insects.

The optimal material for the construction of beehives are the following types of wood: fir; Linden; spruce; aspen; Pine.

Her dry thoroughly and processed: do not use rotten boards or boards with cracks, knots, wormholes. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 15%. Porous boards are used only for facing work.

The disadvantages of wood include the fact that during the cold period the bee dwelling needs to be insulated. Do-it-yourself evidence for bees also made from plywood: this material is durable and environmentally friendly, in some cases even superior to wood.

If you prefer plywood, then be sure to cover the finished structure with acrylic and insulate it with foam. In such a house, insects will be comfortable, warm and dry. But remember that plywood is a whimsical material that requires constant care.

Increasingly in the manufacture of beehives polystyrene foam is used. Unlike evidence from wood, evidence from polystyrene foam does not require additional insulation. And it is relatively inexpensive. But the material itself is quite fragile and vulnerable to damage. In addition, the quality of honey can be reduced if the bees live in a hive made of low-quality Styrofoam.

When insulating facades polyurethane is used. The advantages of such materials include the properties of thermal conductivity, the preservation of dryness inside the structure. It also does not decompose and does not accumulate harmful bacteria. Of the minuses - the complete lack of ventilation. Polyurethane does not pass oxygen at all.

In addition, houses insulated with moss. However, some beekeepers believe that the microclimate inside the home of honey insects suffers, because the moss lets in drafts. But an important advantage of natural insulation material is its availability - you most likely will not have to buy moss.

Hive manufacturing principles

Making a hive with your own hands, drawings for it is not difficult. Even a novice beekeeper can make a design. Making houses for bees at home involves a number of rules that must be followed:

Over time, the material can collapse: cola and cracks form on the wood. For this reason, it is recommended to use linseed primer. Light-colored paint is added to the solution: you can choose yellow, blue or white.

You can make bee hives from boards of any size. The inner walls are recommended to be made from a solid board. For sheathing the finished hive, clefts of any width are used, located at different levels.

The main elements of the classic design

A classic hive is a body with two compartments, a lid and a magazine. This variation is somewhat reminiscent of a box with a thickened bottom and an oblong roof.

Before you start making hives with your own hands in a classic configuration, familiarize yourself with and understand the components of the future structure. Find out which part is needed for what, and only then make a bee house.

Almost any option contains the following details:

• Frame. The main part, which is a kind of box, consists of the walls of the hive. Dimensions may vary by specific models. There are models containing several cases.
• Shop extension. This part is not found in all models. It is something like a shortened body. The purpose of the extension is to preserve the honey during its collection.
• Framework. There are two types: sectional and nested. Nests are used to create honeycombs by insects. And sectional - for harvesting honey in combs.
• Ceiling. It is a board that covers the nest from above. In some models of hives, a canvas is used instead of a ceiling.
• Roof lining. It is located between the upper body and the roof. Often has the same functions as the store. It is designed to improve the living conditions of insects: it insulates the hive in the winter and places a feeder on itself.
• Roof. The upper part of the house, made of plywood, boards and metal sheets. Sometimes ventilation holes are made in them.

Drawings of hives for bees

As in the construction of any house, even a bee house, you should sketch out a drawing. On the Internet there are many ready-made schemes. In our country, there is even a GOST that regulates the construction of bee houses. It is recommended to use boards 37 mm wide for the 300th frame.

The size of the hive depends on several parameters. The temperature of the region where honey insects live is also taken into account. Often this factor is decisive, because pets can freeze to death. If the area is cold, then, accordingly, the wall should be thicker. Determining the size is quite difficult, but there is special calculation formula:

• multiply the number of frames by 37.5 mm .;
• the length of the hive is equal to the length of the frame, which is increased by 14 mm;
• calculate the height as the sum of the height of the folds and the frame.

Everything else depends on the project and the desires of the beekeeper. Houses for bees can be very diverse: from size to color.

Beginning beekeepers can try to make hive-lounger, somewhat reminiscent of an elongated box. It has a broken lid and a removable bottom. This model is horizontal, medium size. The lounger is considered a simplified model, which is the easiest to make on your own.

Possible deviations from the drawing. Making hives for bees with your own hands, the drawings for which are drawn up with particular accuracy, you may encounter a deviation from the plan. An error of 1 mm is not scary. However, a larger indicator, which is very different from that prescribed in the drawing, will require additional adjustment.

Frame sizes

Making frames for a bee home should not be difficult. As a material, it is better to take spruce or linden. For a do-it-yourself double-hull hive, drawings are built taking into account the frame size of approximately 435x300 mm. Consider the following nuances:

Step-by-step instructions for making a hive

So, how to make bee hives with your own hands? On the Internet, you can find a lot of videos to make your task easier. They not only tell, but also demonstrate according to what plan to carry out the work. Watching the video will help both novice beekeepers and skilled beekeepers - everyone is wearing something new and useful for themselves. It should be noted that the work process will depend from the construction scheme and the type of hive which you like the most. However, the algorithm of work is always the same.

Construction involves the following several stages:

1. The inner walls of the future structure are cut out - front, side and back. The thickness of the boards is approximately 20 mm. They should be connected with casein glue or tongue and groove.
2. After they begin to make the outer walls. They are assembled into something like shields - the thickness of the boards is about 15 mm. If the inner walls are glued with casein adhesive, then they are temporarily fixed with overlays on nails. Each board is attached separately. The bottom edge is horizontal, and the corners are at right angles.
3. Behind, a hole is made in the wall. It protects bees from varroatosis, a disease caused by the Varroa destructor mite. The hole is closed with an insert of the same shape.
4. In the body, which consists only of internal walls and does not have a bottom, a lower notch is made. Usually it starts 5 cm from the right side of the house.
5. On the body, which has only an inner wall, the first layer of boards is nailed, protruding 1–1.5 cm beyond the hive. From this you need to mount platforms for arrival. Roofing material or thick cardboard is placed on the same floor layer, then the bottom layer is nailed.
6. In order for the walls on the outside to be the most stable, the boards need to be nailed to the corner plates.
7. The front and back walls are placed on the ends. All construction starts from the bottom up. Each board must be nailed in turn. In parallel with this, the house for bees is being insulated.
8. Planks should be nailed to the inner walls of the building - along its entire perimeter. They will block the space between the walls and the top.
9. In the slats nailed on the back and front, you need to select the folds for the frames. Make sure that the planks in the space between the walls attract quite tightly, and at corner splices - merge into a single line.

When the design is complete, cover the roof with metal sheets and treat the wood with a coloring protective compound. You will receive not only a functional, but also a beautiful beehive, which will serve as a decorative element for your suburban area.

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