Country style wood finish. What kind of wood to choose to sheathe a house with an unedged board: how to do it yourself Sheathing a house with wooden boards

More recently, such material as unedged board was used for sheathing buildings for household purposes. But today this option is also common among residential buildings. To give the house originality and style, it is sheathed with unedged boards.

What is the attractiveness of this method of finishing and how to do it yourself, these are the questions that those who wish will receive an answer today.

A board that has a raw edge, and even the remains of a bark, is called unedged. The cost of such material is lower than fully processed and polished. But modern designers have found use for this type of wood. Now it is fashionable to use an unedged board for cladding the facade of a house.

Properly fitted elements create an imitation of a house built entirely from wood material. Even the raw edge gives an original and slightly rough, but natural look. Like processed, unedged board has a set of positive and negative
characteristics.

Let's look at the benefits first:

1. Ecological cleanliness - the material is absolutely safe for human health and the environment.
2. Vapor permeability - wood allows vapors to pass from the interior to the outside, which allows you to create an ideal microclimate in the living rooms of the building.
3. Thermal and sound insulation properties.
4. Simple and quick installation without the use of complex technologies and tools.
5. Possibility of partial reconstruction if a small area is damaged.
6. Attractive appearance.
7. A variety of textures that depends only on the type of wood.
8. You can sheathe the design of any geometric shape.
9. Possibility to combine with other facing materials.

Now let's look at the disadvantages:

• the need to use protective impregnations;
• regular updating of protective layers;
• without protection, the service life is short;
• quickly damaged by fungus, mold, insects and rodents;
• ignites easily and supports combustion.

Types of wood from which it is made

To sheathe the house outside with an unedged board, you need to choose the highest quality material. An important parameter is the duration of the service. For this purpose, there are only a few options:

1. Pine is a denser structure, which allows it to withstand strong mechanical loads.
2. Spruce is not so dense, therefore it retains heat well.
3. Larch is reliable in all aspects.

With a trimmed finishing board, everything is clear. If there are any defects on the surface, then you should not buy it. With an unedged board it is even easier. But when choosing this material, you should pay attention to a few points:

• cut quality - a good product should not have chips, gouges or other defects;
• knots - there can't be too many of them. The presence of such a disadvantage reduces the quality of the board, and also provokes the curvature of the material during drying;
• cracks - reduce strength, reduce service life and violate the integrity of the material;
• curvature - if the board has such a defect, it is difficult to fix it on the base.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the finishing work, everything must be carefully prepared. And this applies not only to the basis on which the material will be fixed in the future.

But this is still not the biggest problem. Lack of facing material can delay the completion of all work for a long time.

Required Tools

The set of tools that will be needed to complete the sheathing of a house with an unedged board is quite small and difficult to call it difficult. The main thing is to stock up on everything in advance, if suddenly something was not on the farm. Here's what you'll need:

• tape measure and pencil for marking;
• building level;
• nails;
• a hammer;
• square;
• hacksaw for cutting wood;
• paint brush or roller for applying impregnation.

We figured out the tools, and now let's get down to the materials. If there is a need to sheathe the facade, then you need to think about additional thermal insulation. Even if it was not previously noticed that the house is quickly losing heat, additional measures will help to significantly reduce heating costs.

From the materials you need:

1. A bar with a section of 20x20 or 30x30 mm for the frame.
2. Unedged board 30 cm wide. Everyone chooses the thickness of the material independently. On sale there are options 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 mm.
3. Protective and antiseptic impregnations.
4. Sealant.
5. Mineral wool.
6. Protective barriers for insulation.
7. Lacquer or other substance for coloring.

Consumable calculation

1. Butt - large gaps form between the elements, since the unedged board has an uneven edge. Therefore, a large amount of sealant or caulking material will need to be used here.
2. Overlapping - this option is based on the arrangement of boards in a checkerboard pattern. The upper elements overlap the edges of the lower ones by 2 cm, this will help to make the design as airtight as possible. Therefore, the use of additional measures is necessary only at the corners of the building.
3. "Herringbone" - this method involves laying planks in such a way that the bottom edge of one overlaps the top edge of the previous one. The result is a siding effect.

The second option is the most expensive, since the number of elements is slightly larger than in the first or third. When choosing a cladding method, it is necessary to calculate the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls that need to be processed. But at the same time, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindow and door openings is subtracted.

Further, knowing the approximate area of ​​​​one board, you can calculate the number of elements. But be sure to buy material with a margin of 10-15% to ensure that parts are not lost during transportation or fitting.

The subtleties of the design of wooden walls

If you have already chosen a wooden option for finishing the facade, you should take care of the material in advance. Unedged board requires a special approach. First, they decide whether to leave the bark on the board or not.

If the bark is left, then you need to choose such elements where this layer is securely held, does not peel off and does not crumble. In the case when the bark is not needed, then everything is cleaned and carefully sanded.

Further, absolutely all wooden parts are coated with antiseptic and moisture-repellent compounds. If this is not done, the material will quickly become covered with stains that are unpleasant in appearance, and over time, with rot.

The tree can be painted and given an original shade, or you can choose a transparent coating in the form of varnishes. In the second option, the natural color and, of course, the texture of the wood are preserved.

Carrying out housework

When the finishing method is chosen and all materials are purchased, they begin to perform all the work. One person cannot do everything by himself. Therefore, you immediately need to find yourself an assistant, and preferably two. In addition, it will be necessary to build scaffolding to make it convenient to sheathe the walls at the top point.

Lathing installation

You can't do without a frame. This element performs the following functions:

• levels the base and hides any imperfections that may have appeared during operation;
• supports insulation;
• creates a ventilation gap to remove condensate.

To build a frame work like this:

1. 15-20 cm recede from the corner of the house. This will be the place for the first element of the frame.
2. From the other corner make the same mark.
3. The remaining area is divided into equal parts, the width of which corresponds to the width of one sheet of insulation.
4. Fix all the details in the marked places.
5. Dowels are used for fastening.

We warm and waterproof the house

As a heater under an unedged board, it is better to use mineral wool. The material does not ignite, which is important, because wood quickly ignites in a fire. But such a heater quickly absorbs moisture, which means that a hydrobarrier should be laid both outside and inside.

That's why they work like this:

• vapor barrier film. Lay overlapping from bottom to top. The joints are glued with adhesive tape;
• the insulation is closely placed between the bars of the crate, but so that gaps do not form;
• the hydrobarrier is laid in the same way as a vapor barrier film.

A counter-lattice is installed on top. This will help create a ventilation gap and hold the top trim in place.

fasteners

In order to fix the boards use ordinary nails. Their value depends on the thickness of the finishing material. Each element is fixed to the crate bar with several nails. This will help make the design as reliable as possible.

Exterior finish facade herringbone

Perform finishing from the bottom up in a way that is convenient for the owner. If this is an overlap option, then do it as follows:

1. The bottom board is fixed at the level of the foundation or plinth.
2. Retreat such a distance that the top board can cover.
3. Fix the second board.
4. Work to the top of the wall.
5. The second layer will be placed in a checkerboard pattern, that is, it will cover all voids and at the same time go to the edges of adjacent boards by about 4–5 cm.
6. Technology of external installation of the herringbone-type facade

The second option for fixing an unedged board was also false, but it requires more care in order to do everything efficiently and correctly. There are some nuances here.

Mounting rails

There are no differences in the process of mounting the frame. The main thing is to make the markup correctly and at the same time be sure to use the building level so that all elements are placed clearly horizontally and vertically.

Installation of siding panels

This method of finishing the house is also customary to start from the bottom of the wall. But you need to work very carefully and accurately so that the result is of the highest quality, and moisture does not penetrate under the finish.

• the first element is fixed, adhering to the horizontal;
• the second board is pressed against the crate with its upper edge, and the lower one closes the previous board by 2-3 cm;
• each next board is laid in exactly the same way;
• for sealing corners, you can purchase special corner elements;
• at the end, all joints are treated with a polyurethane-based sealant.

Protection of log walls from the outside from destruction by rain, sunlight, wind and frost is done in various ways. The most environmentally friendly is the cladding of the facade of the house with wood. The arrangement of boards overlap creates a barrier to air flow. Water flows down the protruding surface without getting inside the cladding and wall. Boarding is expensive. Its advantages are in the naturalness of the material, a comfortable environment inside the house, and the unique beauty of natural material.

Sheathing of the house to protect the load-bearing wall

House sheathed with a board overlap

It was necessary to sheathe a wooden cottage. It was Vadik's turn to help me. We worked with him under his questions and my stories. My friend is not just a scientist, but a curious mathematician who wants to learn how to do everything with his own hands. We were preparing a wooden house from the outside for finishing, and I told where the sheathing of the walls with an overlap board came from.

When developing new lands, first America, then Australia, ships often crashed on reefs near unfamiliar shores. Settlers trimmed the outside and inside of their houses with wooden sheathing from the sides. They used selections at opposite corners of the board and stacked them in a herringbone pattern. The edge protruded outward above the bottom bar. The water did not run down the wall all the way to the plinth, but dripped down from each plank. Inside, the cladding and wall remained dry.

Depending on the climate of the area inhabited by the settlers, the sheathing on the outside of the walls with an overlap of a shipboard protected the housing from various natural factors:

• strong wind;
• scorching sun;
• frost;
• rains;
• heat.

Over time, board and timber trim became popular. People appreciated not only the practicality, but also the beauty of the wooden facade. It is easier and cheaper to change the most expensive cladding on the outside than to restore the walls.

Types of wood used for lap sheathing

We independently sheathe the walls of the house

While we were cleaning the surface of the walls from dirt, I told a friend which types of wood are best suited for cladding outside.

1. According to its characteristics, the larch finish is the leader. Wood is resistant to moisture. The degree of warping is lower than other breeds. Easy to handle and holds nails.
2. Spruce has a natural impregnation with resin and characteristics are slightly lower than larch. Numerous knots give a peculiar decorative look. Over time, cracks appear around them. Therefore, finishing the house, outside with a spruce board is rare.
3. Pine warps strongly and quickly becomes unusable. Not applicable for exterior cladding.
4. Hardwood looks beautiful and is durable. It is difficult to process. May break when hammering nails. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material.

Finishing the house outside can be done with a board with varying degrees of processing:

• the slab slab is the cut edge of a log with an oval surface;
• removed top and unprocessed edges at both sides of the plank;
• unedged board has rounded raw ends on one side;
• on the edged with a wedge, the corner and part of the butt remain unprocessed;
• the clean-edged board is fully processed and has the same dimensions along the entire length;
• tongue-and-groove with grooves of various shapes cut along the entire length.

Finishing with an overlap board is done with all types of the listed materials. Untreated are laid with oval surfaces outward and overlapped with the upper ones. Butt-to-length, only processed planks are connected. The rest with an overlap of 150 mm.

To give the walls a decorative look in ethnic and retro style, veneer can be applied over the board. Then the house looks aged and fragile. Over time, thin strips of wood warp and fluff like frills.

Facade preparation and waterproofing

Overlap board trim

We spent a few days preparing at home. Finishing the outside with a board requires protecting the walls from dampness. The logs were impregnated with a flame retardant, an antistatic agent and three layers of a water repellent. Applied with brushes and rubbed in well. All this slightly impairs the vapor permeability of the tree. But it protects the walls from fungus and makes them more resistant to moisture and even fire.

I checked the basement waterproofing at the same time. On the foundation stone, moisture from the soil rises to the walls and above. Sheets of roofing material lay intact, protruding several millimeters beyond the plane of the wall. The blind area around the house was made after, when the walls and basement were completed.

House cladding with insulation

Sheathing a house with an overlap board

Sheathing can be attached directly to the logs with nails 80 - 100 mm long. For insulation, a crate is made of wooden beams. Insulation is laid between the vertical posts, closed with waterproofing. To the beam protruding above the mineral wool, a board trim is mounted.

For waterproofing, a film is selected. Then holes are made in it near the racks for ventilation. You can use a special fabric that allows air to pass through and repels water.

Facade decoration in our performance

We sheathe the board with an overlap with our own hands

The walls of the house were warm enough. Overlapping board decoration created additional thermal insulation. Therefore, Vadik and I, after treating the walls from the outside with all protective compounds, waited until they were completely dry. Then they did the following.

1. Marking of vertical lines along the entire perimeter;
2. Wooden planks were screwed on them with self-tapping screws.
3. They nailed the low tide on top of the basement.
4. Above it, a beam was placed with sides equal to the thickness of the sheathing board. It will ensure a uniform slope of the skin slats.
5. Nails were hammered into the boards from the bottom and top with vertical posts. 2 cm receded from the side end.

We started from the bottom row and from the corner began to move to the right and up. Having completed the sheathing, protective additional elements were installed at the corners of the house. Casing was placed on window and door openings during the construction of the walls. We just have to adjust the size of the board so that it fits snugly against the frame.

Having completed the finishing, we went around the entire perimeter of the house, and sealed all the cracks and joints with sealant. I chose in the store to match the color of the tree.

We took up the brushes again. They covered the overlapping boards on the wall with an antiseptic. Then, for decoration, with a glazing composition. He gave the wood a golden chocolate hue and highlighted the natural grain of the wood.

Overlapped boards can be painted, varnished, waxed. This gives the finish a unique look. It all depends on your taste and the board used for sheathing.

Overlapping siding

Self-decoration of the house

A quick and budgetary way to imitate overlapping boarding, mount plastic and metal wood siding. You can make a crate from a metal profile and attach acrylic or vinyl panels to it. It is possible to distinguish a "fake" only at close range.

Ventilated facades last up to 20 years. Virtually no maintenance required. But this is not a tree with its warmth and originality.

To finish the facade of the house, you can choose a variety of finishing materials, and even the most ordinary and simple finish, with the right and competent approach, can perfectly decorate the facade of any building. One of the simplest and most inexpensive materials is ordinary unedged board, which is characterized by unsawn edges, giving the facade of the building simply magnificent properties, creating a really very original and aesthetic design. However, today the wooden decoration of the facade is very popular, and with any kind of boards, not only unedged ones.

What is an unedged board?

The edges of these boards are raw, which allows you to give the overall finish an amazing style. An unedged board can be easily used to finish the facade of any building with proper cleaning and processing, but it is mainly used as a material for facade decoration of cottages and country houses. With careful fitting of such boards to each other, it gives the impression that the house is built entirely of wood.

You can also leave the edges of the unedged board unpeeled, as this finish looks surprisingly stylish. The main thing to consider when using unedged boards is the use of protective impregnations and antiseptics. In addition, you can use stain, and then varnish the boards. Unedged boards were previously used exclusively for non-residential buildings, as well as for roof lathing, that is, where an aesthetic appearance is not required.

However, in recent years there has been a tendency to use such material for sheathing houses. Of course, such a board requires proper processing and a beautiful location before that, which allows it to compete in aesthetics with any other facade finishing option.

The unedged board is characterized by a high level of strength and resistance to mechanical damage, and also resists changes in humidity and temperature quite well. The not very high density of the unedged board makes it quite easy to process in various ways, reducing the time for finishing the facade of the building with such material.

Carrying out work on finishing the facade with unedged boards

For exterior decoration of buildings, a beam is used, which must be nailed over an unedged board in increments of about 1.5 meters. Also bars are used on the corners of the house. The fit of the boards to each other does not have to be perfect, as the remaining gaps can be subsequently covered with mastic or sealant.

Unedged board dimensions

Unedged board usually has a thickness of 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm, however, you can also find thicker ones - 32-75 mm. The modern building materials market offers a diverse selection of boards, since wood trimming of houses is a fairly common occurrence these days.

The facade of the house made of unedged boards creates a unique play of chiaroscuro, which is obtained due to horizontal planking, which looks very stylish and impressive. For facade decoration, as a rule, an unedged board is used, the width of which is 30 cm. The best choice for this purpose will be northern tree species with a beautiful texture and high density. Usually these are trees such as Siberian larch or selected butt forest, which is devoid of any defects.

Choice of mounting method

During installation, unedged boards are installed using the "overlap" method or are located close to each other, not inferior in quality to siding. The second option is the most difficult, but at the same time more beautiful.

Overlap sheathing - block diagram

However, in addition to aesthetic qualities, the practicality of all sheathing methods should also be taken into account. The "overlap" method is more suitable for finishing facades from a practical point of view. This finishing option is more resistant to moisture, but it should be remembered that the installation of unedged boards in this case must be carried out on top of the waterproofing, and the joining of their ends is joined with a “moustache” trim, after which the joint is treated with a sealant.

If necessary, the boards can be primed and then installed over the waterproofing layer. They are nailed face down with one nail at the bottom but above the previous board. In the event of fluctuations in the level of humidity, this method will preserve the integrity of the entire structure.

Detailed technology of facade cladding with unedged boards "overlap"

An example of overlapping unedged boards

This technology is the most acceptable, since the unedged board has uneven edges, which complicates the process of joining parts.

1. We cover the boards with a primer or protective coating. Suitable for these jobs deep penetration compounds used for the preparation of mineral or wooden coatings before plastering and painting. The primer penetrates deep into the board and acts as a link. Advantages: the wear resistance of the coating increases, the impact on the plank surface of the environment decreases, the adhesion of adhesives and paints increases. The walls are also primed.

Knotting

2. Installation of waterproofing on the walls. For these works, coating type waterproofing is suitable. It could be TechnoNIKOL Mastic MGTRN. Not only the protection of the walls is important, but also the waterproofing of the blind area of ​​the house. Mastic is applied to the walls with a brush. If gaps remain, fill the solution there and remove the excess with a spatula.

Example of coating waterproofing for wood

After that, the waterproofing layer should dry well so that the surface is not sticky when touched. It is best to apply three layers of waterproofing, so you will avoid moisture entering the room and the formation of mold and fungus in the house. And if you still encounter such a problem, buy special building materials to combat mold.

3. Installation of insulation. One of the most popular materials for facade insulation is mineral wool, as it is non-combustible, does not absorb moisture, and is not afraid of the cold. Please note that this is only one option.

Foam insulation

4. Fastening the boards on top of the waterproofing by nailing them. To do this, vertical boards are stuffed vertically along the wall, after which horizontal boards are stuffed on them, in the direction from the bottom up. The imposition of the next layer on the previous one should be done by about 20 mm, this is the overlap.

5. Applying sealant to the joints of the boards. The best facade sealants for filling joints are polyurethane sealants. In terms of technical characteristics and parameters, they compare favorably with acrylic, silicone and other sealants. Polyurethane sealants have high elasticity and resist stretching and deformation, which is very important when facing the facade with unedged boards.

An example of sealing a seam with polyurethane sealant

6. Applying the finish coat. Lacquer coatings are often used. We select products and apply varnish with a brush. This completes the finishing of the facade with an unedged board.

Today, a fairly large number of different materials are used for cladding the facade of private houses. Even the simplest materials, with the right approach, can decorate the facade of any design.

Boards can be used as house cladding, only during installation they must be coated with sealant at the joints.

One of these materials is unedged board, which has uncut edges. Such elements are able to give the facade of the structure excellent properties, creating a unique design. Today, sheathing is not only unedged, but also other types of boards.

How to clad a house with an unedged board?

Elements that will be needed for sheathing a private house:

Lumber: a - two-edged timber; b - three-edged timber; c - four-edged timber; g - unedged board; d - clean-edged board; e - edged board with a blunt wane; g - edged board with a sharp wane; h - bar; and - slab croaker; to - boardwalk; l - unedged sleeper; m - edged sleeper; 1 - face; 2 - edge; 3 - rib; 4 - butt.

1. Bar.
2. Unedged board 30 cm wide of northern tree species.
3. Mastic.
4. Silicone sealant.
5. Deep penetration primer.
6. Nails.
7. Tassel.
8. Putty knife.
9. Mineral wool.
10. Building level.
11. Dye.

For the external cladding of the structure, a beam is used, which is nailed over unedged boards in increments of approximately 1.5 m. The beams should also be used at the corners of the building. The fit of the boards to each other does not have to be perfect, because the existing gaps can be later covered with mastic or silicone sealant.

In most cases, unedged board has a thickness of 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm, but you can also find thicker ones - 30-75 mm. Today, on the building materials market, there are a fairly large number of various boards for sale, since wood facade decoration is performed quite often.

The front part of a private house made of unedged boards will create a unique play of light and shade, which can be obtained thanks to horizontal planking. In most cases, an unedged board 30 cm wide is used to finish the facade of a private house.

It is best for this work to choose northern tree species that have a beautiful texture and suitable density. Such trees include such species as Siberian larch or selected butt forest, which does not have any defects.

Choosing the right way to install such boards

During sheathing, an unedged board can be installed using the "overlap" method or placed close to each other. In terms of quality, such sheathing will not be inferior to siding. The second option is more difficult to perform, but it looks better.

In addition to aesthetic qualities, it is necessary to take into account the practicality of all house cladding methods. The "overlap" method is more suitable for finishing facade elements in terms of practicality. This sheathing method is resistant to moisture, but it must be remembered that in this case, the installation of an unedged board will need to be done on top of the waterproofing layer, while the ends of the elements are joined with the trimming “under the mustache”. In the end, all existing joints will need to be treated with silicone sealant.

If necessary, the board can be covered with a primer and installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

They will need to be nailed with the right side over the previous board. Nails are used as fasteners, which are driven in at the bottom. This method allows you to maintain the integrity of the structure in case the humidity level fluctuates.

The technology of boarding facade elements of a private house

Unedged boards have uneven edges, which can complicate the process of joining all the elements. However, this technology simplifies this process, so it is recommended to use it.

The technology is as follows:

Before installation, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect the material from moisture and various pests.

1. The boards are covered with a primer or a special coating for protection. Deep penetration primers are suitable for these works, which are used to prepare mineral coatings before plastering and painting. Priming compositions penetrate deep into the boards and act as a connecting element. As a result, it will be possible to increase the wear resistance of the base, reduce the environmental impact on the wooden coating, and increase the adhesion of adhesive mixtures and paints.
2. Waterproofing is installed on the walls. In this case, it is best to use coating type waterproofing. It is important not only to protect the walls, but also to waterproof the blind areas of a private house. Mastic should be applied to the walls with a brush. If gaps remain, you will need to pour the solution into them, and then remove the excess with a spatula.
3. After that, the waterproofing layer must dry so that the base is not sticky to the touch. It is recommended to apply 3 layers of waterproofing to avoid moisture ingress and the formation of fungus and mold in the building. If a similar problem nevertheless arises, then you will need to purchase special building materials to combat mold.
4. Next, a heater is installed. For the insulation of facade elements, mineral wool is most often used. It does not ignite, does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of frost.
5. The boards are fixed on top of the waterproofing with nails. To do this, you need to fill the wall of the board vertically, and then fix the horizontal elements on them, in the direction from the bottom up. The next layer is installed on the previous one with an overlap of 20 mm.
6. Sealant is applied to the joints of the boards. In this case, it is best to use polyurethane compounds. They have high elasticity and are able to withstand sprains and damage.
7. Next, the finish coat is applied. In most cases, varnish is used for this coating, which is applied with a brush.

How is the sheathing of the house with boards of other types?

This option for finishing the facade parts of the building is not the most economical. You should know that only specialists can perform high-quality boarding at home with boards.

The cladding of the facade of the house can be made in the form of a lining using flat or unhewn boards. Laying elements is overlapped. This can be done through the use of special boards in which there are tongue-and-groove or quarter joints. This type of cladding is used for finishing work on walls made of bricks or blocks.

This type of sheathing combines decorative and heat-insulating functions. The latter option is used in the case of warming "dry" method.

Sheathing the facade of a private house with boards: technology

Wood is a material of organic origin, as a result of which it rots in a humid environment. Therefore, the cladding of the facade with boards will need to be done with ventilation from the back. In order to create such ventilation, it is necessary to install a wooden crate on the wall.

When installing ventilated facades, a windproof film is used, which is laid as a heater or directly on the base of the wall.

In this way, it will be possible to prevent the weathering of fibrous insulation materials and provide additional heat resistance of the wall. Such a film will block water, but will not be able to prevent steam from escaping the building.

The gap for ventilation between the wall and the wooden sheathing should be 4-5 cm. An ascending air stream will form in it, which is able to remove moisture.

In the lower part of the facade, it will be necessary to provide gaps for free access of air, as well as its subsequent exit under the roof. From below, the holes can be closed with a metal mesh to protect against rodents.

The crate is made of wooden planks with a square or rectangular section.

To reduce water absorption, they need to be impregnated with an antiseptic and special compounds - impregnates.

If the cladding is performed without the use of insulation, then the frame planks must be filled vertically, observing a step of 50-60 cm. If the board is installed vertically, then a double frame must be made.

This can be done by installing horizontal bars on top of vertical ones. If the wall is uneven, then it must be leveled with impregnated plywood pads.

How to strengthen the facade of the boards with your own hands?

The tree will be exposed to environmental influences, so it will need to be protected. The wooden facade will need to be varnished, painted or treated with decorative impregnations. Before applying a protective coating, the wood will need to be coated with a flame retardant composition.

An exception can only be the case when the facade is painted with a special fire-fighting paint. This composition will prevent the boards from igniting even in case of prolonged contact with fire. Ventilated wooden facades will definitely need to be processed in a similar way.

Sheathing the facade of a private house with wood has a large number of advantages. But there is also a disadvantage, which is that the boards require a renewal of the protective surface every few years. If roads of tree species are used for cladding (for example, cedar or teak), then you can not think about the problem with subsequent painting. In addition, these types of wood will practically not be subjected to deformation over a long period of time. Today on the market you can find on sale a fairly large number of boards that have already been processed and painted.

Vertical wall cladding with unedged boards looks more beautiful in interior spaces. For external coatings, horizontal sheathing with unedged boards is most often used, which has an original appearance when fixed with an overlap. Combined cladding can decorate a building inside and out - all you need is diligence and imagination.

Finishing facade elements with wood using boards of various sections is carried out by carpenters and joiners. To sheathe a private house on your own, you need to have relevant work experience and a certain set of electrical tools.

We began to sheathe transportable baths with an overlapping board (lining) or a Christmas tree in 2014. And these were barrel baths, which we then called "Exclusive". Despite the fact that the “American” (namely, this facade finishing technology received this name) has been known from time immemorial in the States, Canada, and Scandinavia, it has become widespread in our country not so long ago.

The technology is simple, proven, and the result looks impressive. Suitable for exterior decoration and houses, and baths, and any other buildings.

Here's what it looks like live:

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American facade cladding technology

There is nothing complicated here. Whatever building you are sheathing, installation begins with the installation of guide bars. That is, we make a frame crate, on which we will attach the lining. It is clear that since the finishing board is mounted horizontally, the guides are installed vertically. At the very bottom we nail a horizontal rail 20 mm wide - it sets the angle of inclination of the lining. Boards are installed from the bottom up.

The question is often asked, where to hammer in nails when sheathing the facade with an overlap board - through and through 2 boards, driving into the overlap? Or just the top board by driving a nail over the overlap?

Various options are allowed. We do hidden fastening. That is, nails are hammered in the upper part of the lining in increments of 20 cm at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the edge. That is, when the next board lies on top, the nails will not be visible.

We believe that this is the most reliable and aesthetic option.

Pros and cons of installing a herringbone lining

If you choose a facade finish, then, of course, you go over the advantages and disadvantages of each option. America has more pros than cons.

Perhaps this table can be supplemented. If you have any comments, please write in the comments to this article.

Why we chose the board size 145x19

We believe that this is the best option for finishing transportable baths. On large facades, a larger board looks better - 150-200 mm, and on small ones - smaller.

Too often, already ripples:

And here it is just right:

When choosing a board, we are guided by personal preferences. Some may disagree with us.

The thickness of 19 mm was also chosen not by chance. It depends on the size of the board, in our case 145 mm. The higher the height, the thicker the board needed. If the proportions are incorrect, deformations may occur as they shrink and are used.

Paint before or after?

We paint boards strictly before installation. If you start painting after assembly, then after drying, unpainted areas will appear - you will have to repaint.

We use Biotex and Pinotex paints for outdoor work. The composition already includes an antiseptic. We paint in 2 layers to achieve a rich color and uniform coloring.

We shot a separate video directly from the production just on this topic:

How to close the joints when sheathing with an overlap board

A non-trivial question, what to do with joints? There are several ways to solve this problem. We found a picture where they are clearly presented:

We go in the simplest and most aesthetic way - we make rectangular overlays that contrast in color with the American. It looks like this:

The least time-consuming and technologically simple way - no errors, no jambs.