Wooden chairs with their own hands - solid and comfortable. Chair: device, materials and elements, schemes, different types for adults and children How to make a chair from an array

A person who decides to try his hand at carpentry usually starts with the smallest and relatively uncomplicated pieces of furniture in design - these are shelves, stools, drawers. Having stuffed your hand a little, you can move on to more complex products, for example, make a high-quality reliable chair.

This piece of furniture will always be in demand, regardless of where you live - whether in a city apartment, or outside the city in the country. Therefore, if you know how to make a chair with your own hands, and be able to do it in practice, then “consumer demand for goods” on the scale of your own family will be guaranteed.

Before proceeding to the manufacturing process, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the available variety of chair models - this will help you choose the most attractive option.

Read also interesting information on how to do it in our new article on our portal.

Popular types of chairs

Chairs can have a different design, and sometimes perform more than one, but even several functions (for example, a model that transforms into a stepladder). In addition, chairs can be designed for permanent use at home (apartment) and designed for mobile use (folding, which is easy to take with you to the country or when going out into the countryside).

Home massive chairs

The most popular version of chair models are massive structures made of natural wood. They are comfortable and very durable, and are also perfect for a private wooden house that maintains a single eco-style. The disadvantage of such products can be called a large mass, but it also gives the chair the necessary stability and exceptional reliability.

This design is well suited for the manufacture of both large and small children's chairs. Having made a durable highchair for a child, you can later be sure that the baby will not fall off it, and the product will not fall apart under any load.

In order for a chair made of natural boards to look aesthetically pleasing and be completely safe for both children and adults, all corners and surfaces of wood must be properly processed and sanded, and then coated with paint or stain and varnish. If you want the chairs to look massive, but at the same time have a not so “intimidating” weight, you should choose light wood, for example, linden, and then tint it under the oak using a stain.

Usually the thickness of all parts for this chair model is large enough, which gives the structure solidity. The elements are fastened with dowels or screws. If the product is intended for a child, then it is not recommended to use metal corners for connecting nodes.

Chair with upholstered seat

For comfortable use in residential conditions, more elegant designs with a soft seat are most often chosen. They can be made in the same style, or they can have thinner legs and carved backs, consisting of several crossbars. In order to make models more aesthetically pleasing, various materials such as plywood and boards are often used in combination, which makes the product somewhat lighter, but without losing strength.

Chair-chair

Chairs-armchairs, depending on the features of their design, are used for installation in the living room, in the office, on the terrace or veranda. They can have a soft fabric (leatherette) sheathing or be completely made of wood.

This type of chairs is more especially comfortable for pastime. Some of them are conducive to relaxation, others intended for offices, on the contrary, should be comfortable to the extent that conducive to working capacity, since they have to spend a lot of time related to business.

Chairs-armchairs intended for installation in places of outdoor recreation, most often do not have fabric sheathing, and are made of natural wood impregnated with water-repellent compounds. At the same time, their design provides for gaps between the parts of the back and seat - for the free flow of rainwater and for the quick drying of the wood.

Folding chair

This version of the chairs can be used both in the conditions of an apartment, and in a country house or in a private house. The convenience of a folding chair lies in the fact that during cleaning or during transportation it can be folded into a compact flat design. Such a chair can be easily put in the trunk of a car when going out into nature or to the country.

It is also well suited for a small country house, since when folded it does not take up much precious space, but when unfolded it is able to create maximum comfort for relaxation.

A folding chair has a more complex design, so the instructions for its manufacture need to be studied more carefully. The product must have increased strength, as it will have to withstand numerous unfolding and folding, as well as the weight of any of the household members. Nevertheless, if the chair is made with high quality, with a reliable design and a convenient principle of transfer to the working position and back, then it will last a long time and will always be in demand by all family members.

As an option - a folding chair made of thick plywood.

To make this version of a folding chair, you will need a plywood sheet with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm, having the size of a future product. The complexity of working on a folding structure lies only in the accuracy and perfect evenness of cutting out all the structural elements from this sheet, and then processing their edges. With a quality tool at your disposal, such a chair can be made in a few hours.

Electric jigsaw

The convenience of this chair is its compactness when folded. In fact, the thickness of the product in the "stowed position" will be equal to the thickness of the plywood sheet chosen for its manufacture. Thanks to this, when folded, the chair can simply be hung on the wall, making it secure. This design is also convenient for transportation, as it practically does not take up space in the trunk of a car.

Transforming chair

If you make a chair that is equipped with the ability to easily transform into a stepladder, then there will always be a device at hand that will greatly facilitate cleaning, help you make repairs at the top of the wall or get the necessary thing lying on top or deep in a tall cabinet.

The rest of the time, the design will serve as a comfortable place to sit, not much different from a regular chair - it can be installed, for example, in the kitchen or on the veranda. If necessary, turn the product into a stepladder, just grab the back of the chair and place it on the floor - it will easily turn over thanks to the built-in "butterfly" loops.

Due to the fact that the transformer consists of more parts than an ordinary chair, naturally, it will have a rather impressive weight, but thanks to the same massiveness, the structure will stand stably and securely when used as a stepladder. A transforming chair can be made of solid wood or thick plywood, but the latter will make the structure much heavier.

The simplest chairs are stools

A stool can also be attributed to the furniture category of chairs, and, by the way, it can also vary significantly in the complexity of the design. If you plan to make this particular version of the chair for the kitchen or summer cottage, then we recommend that you refer to the article by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

How to make your own chair

Drawing, names and purposes of the main parts of the chair

After the model is selected, it is necessary to make calculations and execute a design drawing. If you managed to find on the Internet the desired version of the chair, to which the drawing is attached, then if you wish, you can correct it by reducing or increasing some dimensions that will not affect the strength qualities of the structure.

The sketch may well be drawn up by hand, but it is required to put down all the dimensions of the future product on it. In addition to it, it is advisable to make drawings of each of the parts separately, and also indicate all sizes on them.

Such a drawing will help to seamlessly produce all the necessary elements, as well as imagine how the finished chair will look like.

So that in the future there will be no confusion in terms, it is worth immediately deciding on the names of the main parts that usually make up the design of the chair. Let's look at the diagram:

• Side abutments are the elements on which the back of the chair is fixed. Very often they are one with the back legs of the chair - their continuation.
• The back is fixed on the foundations and fastens them together.
• Front legs attached to the tsargi.
• Drawers form the frame and serve as the basis for installing the seat.
• The seat is fixed on the kings.
• Prolegs are elements installed in the lower or middle part of the legs and serve to give the structure stability and strength. Prolegs are lateral, front, rear and transverse.
• Armrests are optional parts for a chair. Most often they are installed in the design of the chair.

• The cracker is not shown in the upper diagram, so a separate illustration is placed for it. These are elements installed from the inside on the frame at the corners. They are made of plywood, slats, or special metal corner elements are used instead.

When drawing up a drawing of a chair, it is imperative to provide for the size of all connecting parts of the structure - spikes, cut-outs at the edges of the prongs and drawers, dowels and the holes and grooves provided for them.

Required Tools

Carpentry tools are required to craft solid wood or plywood furniture. The perfect processing of structural details is obtained on professional woodworking machines, which are usually owned by carpenters who have their own workshops. Of course, for a start, it will be enough to have a hand tool, which craftsmen have worked with since ancient times before the advent of various mechanized devices, but using it, you need to be patient and prepare for lengthy and very laborious material processing operations. Therefore, the best option would be to purchase or at least rent electric hand tools for working with wood. These include:

• An electric jigsaw will allow you to quickly and evenly cut out any necessary shape of a part from a board or plywood. After sawing wood or plywood with this tool, the edges are smooth, but the cut corners remain straight, which is not very aesthetically pleasing and convenient for furniture such as a chair, stool or table. Therefore, for the perfect processing of parts, rounding corners or giving them a curly shape, a milling cutter is used.

• Hand router - this tool is indispensable for working with wood. It is necessary not only for edge processing of finished parts, but also for sampling grooves and holes included in the system of fasteners.

• The grinder will significantly speed up the finishing of surfaces and corners of parts. It will help remove large and small burrs left after the initial processing, and make the surface perfectly smooth.

Sanders are eccentric rotary, vibrating, belt. To them, it is necessary to purchase the appropriate sets of abrasive paper of varying degrees of grit (for wood, it is usually used from P80 to P400).

• . This tool is useful not only in the manufacture of furniture, but also for many other works in the apartment, and even more so in a private house, so buying it will never be a waste of money. It can easily replace not only screwdrivers, but in some cases a drill, so you need to pick up a set of drills of different diameters in the kit.

• Clamps of various working lengths are designed to tighten the parts of the structure to be glued or when fitting elements during trial assembly. Thanks to this tool, the connections of the elements will turn out to be more durable and reliable, which is important for pieces of furniture that will constantly experience high loads.
• In addition, the simplest tools will be needed for work - a hammer, a construction square, a tape measure, a ruler of 500 ÷ 1000 mm, a marking pencil, a knife, pliers.
• In order for the work to be carried out efficiently, it is necessary to prepare a comfortable place for yourself, and best of all, if it is a spacious, reliable workbench.

Illustrated instructions for making wooden chairs

Regular wooden chair

For starters - a regular wooden chair. It has a height of 929 mm, seat width - 430 mm. This model is suitable for use both in a private house and in an apartment.

The design of the chair includes the following elements

• Rectangular seat, size 440 × 430 mm - 1 pc.
• Rear legs, combined with side supports, 929 mm high - 2 pcs.
• Front legs 425 mm high - 2 pcs.
• Side drawers with a length of 396 mm - 2 pcs., As well as front and rear drawers with a length of 371 mm - 2 pcs.
• Figured crossbars of the back, 396 mm long - 2 pcs.
• Additional bars, fixed from the inside to the side drawers, 385 mm long.

More detailed information about each of the elements will be given when describing the process of their manufacture and installation.

Illustration
	The first step is to make the simplest part in design - this is the seat. This will require a plywood panel measuring 430 × 440 mm, having a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm. On one of its sides, along the short side of 430 mm, cutouts are marked and made, 35 × 44 mm in size. They are necessary in order for the seat to fit between the abutments of the backrest. In addition, all protruding right angles, as well as the edges of the panel, are rounded using a milling cutter.
	The next step is to make two rather complex parts - the rear legs, turning into abutments. For the manufacture of these parts, two well-crafted boards with a thickness of 25 mm and having a size of 115 × 929 mm are required. All the dimensions indicated on the diagram are transferred to them, then everything is carefully measured and drawn on a ruler. Having determined the shape of the parts, you must immediately mark the grooves for installing the spikes of the crossbars of the back and rear side. After their places are determined, before cutting the legs out of the board, you should immediately drill the grooves - this can be done with a router or, if not, with a drill, drilling several holes with a diameter of 9.5 mm, and then carefully combining them with the help of a chisel.
	Now that the grooves on the parts are ready, you can cut out the leg itself and process its surfaces to smoothness. How the finished part should look is shown in this illustration. On the finished legs, one more groove is marked and selected, which are designed to install the side drawers. They are located at the same height as the grooves for fixing the back side.
	Next, the front and back sides are made. For them, a board with a thickness of 18 mm is taken, having a size of 396 × 75 mm. Spikes are cut along the edges of each side, having a size of 18 × 73 mm and a width of 9 mm, that is, the board is reduced on both sides by 4.5 mm, and from below by 2 mm. When making spikes, they need to be tried on to the grooves - they should fit into the grooves easily, but tightly.
	The side tsargs are made in the same way as the front from the back. T You just need to look carefully that these parts differ in their length.
	The next step is to make two parts of the back - curly crossbars. For them, you need to prepare a board measuring 396 × 100 × 40 mm. On it, at first, along the edges, the size of the spikes is marked, having a height of 66 mm, a depth of 18 mm, a width of 9.5 mm. The inner edges of the spikes are connected by a curved line, which is part of a circle with a radius of 550 mm.
	Further, the thickness of the back is marked - it should have a deep curvilinear shape - along a circle with a radius of 500 mm. After the parts are marked out, you should first cut out the spikes and the upper shape of the part with a milling cutter or jigsaw, and then select a recess that will make support comfortable for the back while sitting on a chair. You can choose the excess part of the wood by making gashes, and then removing it using a chisel. It should be noted that cutting out a concave back from a bar and grinding it to perfection is an extremely difficult task, so you can completely stop at a straight version of the back, limiting yourself to cutting out spikes of the declared size along the edges.
	The front legs of the chair are made of timber 425 × 50 × 25 mm in size. The dimensions indicated in the drawing are transferred to the beam, and two front legs are cut along them. On the top of the finished legs, you need to mark the grooves, which in this case should be open on the upper side for ease of assembly of the structure. The grooves are cut with a milling cutter or drilled with a drill and combined with a chisel. Do not forget about the mirror arrangement of the grooves on the left and right legs!
	In finished form, the connecting node of the front legs of the chair looks like this.
	Next, the last two parts are cut out, the stops, designed to fix the seat on the box, consisting of the sides and legs. These elements are fixed on the side drawers and have a size of 385 × 25 × 15 mm. Along their edges, cuts are made, 28 mm in size, 3.5 mm deep. After the parts are ready, three through holes are drilled in them, through which the seat will be fixed from below.
	When all the details are ready, cleaned and polished, you can proceed to the assembly of the chair. The first step is going to the carpenter's glue backrest. In the grooves of the parts that combine the rear legs and the abutments of the back, the crossbeams of the back and the back side are glued. Then the entire structure at the gluing points is pulled together with clamps and left until the glue dries completely.
	The next step, in the same way, the front side is glued into the front legs, and is also pulled together in clamps. It must be said that in addition all glued parts can be fixed with self-tapping screws, but before screwing them in, it is necessary to drill holes for them (under the sweat), that is, the caps of the fasteners must be recessed into the wood. From above, such holes are masked with putty on wood.
	When the glue on the front and back of the chair dries, they can be connected to each other with side drawers, which are also installed on the glue in the grooves intended for them.
	It is recommended to tighten the entire structure in clamps until the glue dries completely.
	After the frame is ready, you can proceed to the final work. First, prepared stop strips with holes through which the seat will be attached are glued to the inner sides of the side tsargs, on the same level with their upper edge. At the final stage, glue is applied to the side upper parts of the drawers and the seat panel is laid, which is pressed against the drawers with clamps. When the glue dries, the chair is turned over and placed on the table with the seat down. Self-tapping screws 35 mm long are screwed into the seat through the through holes in the wooden thrust rails.
	Instead of a solid panel for the seat, boards with a width of 50 ÷ 70 mm and a thickness of 10 ÷ 15 mm can be used.

If the design of an ordinary chair seemed too simple, then you can try to make a more complex and functional version of a transforming chair.

step chair

For the manufacture of a step-stool, natural wood or plywood with a thickness of at least 15 ÷ 20 mm can be used, but a plywood product will become heavier, and this must also be taken into account when choosing a material.

The design of the proposed model of a step-stool, 850 mm high, 400 mm wide, made of plywood or board 20 mm thick, consists of the following parts, shown in the drawing under the letter designations:

Curvilinear parts are drawn by transferring over squares using the template proposed in the diagram.

Letter designation	the name of detail	Height, mm	Width, mm	Number of parts, pcs.
BUT	Front side legs	400	270	2
B	Hind legs, combined with the abutments of the back.	850	325	2
AT	Back	400	Depending on the number of parts	3÷5
G	Back of seat	400	165	1
D	Seat front	400	90	1
E	steps	360	120	3
F	Planks for installing steps	95	20	6
	Loops - "butterflies"		50×40	2

The following is a variant of a step-ladder chair, somewhat different from the drawing shown above, but only in that curly cutouts are arranged in its side parts-legs, which will not only make the model more interesting in appearance, but also lighten its weight. The remaining dimensions and shape of the structure can be taken from the proposed scheme.

Folding chair

Work on the manufacture of such a product takes place in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	So, on the plywood panels prepared for the manufacture of the chair, the pattern of the part is transferred from the pattern template with exact observance of sizes and shapes.
	The next step in the details is to cut even grooves for installing steps in them. The work is carried out with the help of a milling cutter, which immediately makes neat recesses. For the convenience and evenness of the cutouts inside the plywood panel, a special home-made device (jig) is used, consisting of two boards fastened together at a distance into which the router bit easily passes. This device is rigidly fixed with clamps along the cut line. A drill is inserted into the hole between the boards and a groove is cut exactly according to the pattern.
	As mentioned above, in this chair model, its parts have figured openings located inside. Before proceeding with their cutting, round holes are drilled at their corners using a drill, which will allow you to insert a jigsaw saw into them and not make a mistake in the direction of the cut.
	Further, a file is inserted into one of the holes, and the necessary fragment is cut out of the chair part. The work is also done according to the pattern.
	The edges of the parts that have figured shapes are carefully, slowly cut out with an electric jigsaw, since, while working with it, it is possible to make smooth turns of the cut line.
	The edges of parts that have even borders can be cut faster and more accurately using a hand-held circular saw, having previously installed a metal strip-adjuster for the height of the protrusion of the cutting disc. If you do not use this device, you can accidentally cut the desktop along with the part.
	Further, the edges of the cut parts of one of the sides of the chair must be immediately processed, giving them smoothness and removing all bumps and burrs. In this case, the master carries out this work on a special vertical milling machine, but such a tool is unlikely to be found in the arsenal of a novice carpenter. Therefore, this process can be carried out with a manual router with a special edge cutter, having previously rigidly fixed the part with clamps on the table. Another option is sanding with different grits. It is clear that work with emery will drag on for a long time, and it is quite tedious and time-consuming. Therefore, finished parts can be taken to a carpentry workshop and ordered for professional processing.
	The next step is to transfer the shapes and sizes from the already made parts to the whole plywood panel. They are laid on the surface of the material and accurately outlined with a pencil along the contour.
	In addition, all the grooves of the parts are marked. In this model, the master for installing steps does not use rails fixed on the elements of the chair for installing steps, but grooves cut into them, into which the edges of the steps will be glued. This option for installing steps is more durable than the one that uses slats to support them, but also more laborious.
	Further, according to the contours transferred to the plywood panel, the details of the second side of the chair are cut out. The process of cutting and processing completely repeats the work on the first side, but the details must repeat its forms in a mirror image.
	Then, the finished parts are temporarily glued together with pieces of double-sided tape. For the accuracy of their addition, rails are used that are installed in the grooves cut out for the steps, since they must be located perfectly even on the sides of the structure, otherwise the steps will be crooked or not fall into place at all. The parts glued together, already together, in a package, are aligned with precise trimming along the contour.
	When batch processing with a cutter, perfectly accurate copies of parts for opposite sides of the chair are obtained. To achieve such a fit manually is simply unrealistic. It is quite possible to use not a stationary, but a manual router with an edge cutter equipped with a roller. The roller, rolling along the border of an already finished and processed part (template), exactly copies, transfers the dimensions to another one located in the package with it.
	After that, the milling cutter is polished, rectangular edges are smoothed along the inner and outer edges of the parts. Everything must be brought out to the ideal so that there are no chips and burrs, otherwise you can easily get hurt when rearranging or unfolding the transforming chair.
	The next step is to cut out and process the back piece according to the pattern. Here there is also a difference with our drawing - the back is made of one wide part, but several straight crossbars can be used, as in the drawing. The oval hole of the handle for the convenience of folding the structure is first indicated at the extreme points by drilling holes, and then combined with a jigsaw. The end faces of the parts are processed with a special polishing nozzle (as in the illustration), or with sandpaper manually. Also, according to the drawing, parts of the steps and the seat are manufactured and processed. They are easy to make, as they have even rectangular shapes. When making them, you only need to adhere to the parameters indicated in the drawing.
	After that, the surfaces of all parts are processed in turn by a grinding machine and brought to perfect smoothness.
	Further, the finished parts must first be assembled - install the step panels in the grooves prepared for them.
	Having installed the steps and tightening the structure in clamps, if necessary, deepen the grooves, make marks, and then the grooves are adjusted. In addition, marks are made where it is necessary to drill holes for screwing in the mounting screws.
	After that, a back (or crossbars of the back) is installed between the abutments, and markings are also made for drilling holes for fastening.
	The next step at the marked points is to drill holes "under the sweat", that is, the heads of the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the wood.
	When the holes are ready, the joints of the parts are smeared with glue, assembled and tightened in clamps, and self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes. Subsequently, their hats are sealed from above with putty on wood flush with the common surface. After the putty has dried, the surface is sanded.
	Further, steps are glued into the grooves made on the inside of the legs, tightened in clamps and also fixed on the end sides with self-tapping screws.
	A seat board is glued to the upper end sides of the back of the structure and is also pressed against the legs with clamps. Then it is drilled in two or three places on each side and screwed to the legs.
	When the glue dries, the chair is turned over and placed with a seat on the table and fixed with clamps so that you can safely fix the step on the underside of the side legs with the help of dowels, 7 ÷ 8 mm in diameter.
	Next, the front part of the chair structure or the upper part of the ladder is assembled. A step is glued into the sides, and then fixed with self-tapping screws.
	Then, on top of the front legs, the front part of the seat is fixed by gluing, which is pulled together with a step with a clamp. In the side edges aligned with the legs, two through holes are drilled for installing dowels, which are mounted on glue.
	The protruding parts of the dowels are carefully cut flush with the common surface.
	After that, the entire surface of the seat is polished to perfect smoothness.
	The finished back and front parts are stacked on top of each other, as if they looked like a stepladder, and fixed with clamps. On the end sides, the places for installing loops - “butterflies” are marked. They should be installed at a distance of 50÷60 mm from the outer edges on the right and left. This distance is marked at the ends, then loops are applied and outlined with a pencil. After that, a layer of wood is selected from the marked areas, equal in thickness to the hinge plates, since they must be installed in the same plane with the common end surface of the parts. After that, the hinges are screwed into place with self-tapping screws.
	When the hinges are attached, the structure can be tested by installing and testing it first in the form of a chair.
	The chair then transforms into a ladder. If, when folding and unfolding, nothing interferes with the process, and the structure is rigid and strong, then all the details fit perfectly, and the product can be operated.

Find out how to do it with detailed instructions from a new article on our portal.

Folding chair

Folding models of chairs can have different configurations, but they have the same principle of operation - they all fold into a compact design and can be hung on the wall or put away in a regular cabinet. Folding models are good to use in small kitchens, cottages or when traveling to nature. According to the complexity of manufacturing, this design can be attributed to the middle category, since it does not have curvilinear shapes and can be made with simple tools.

In this case, not the most complex version of the folding model is shown, which can be made independently.

It can be immediately noted that in the presented figure two structural details are missing - these are the upper and lower bars that fasten the rear legs together. You can do without them, but still with such a back leg, the design will only benefit in strength. These additional elements will be discussed in the description of the work on the manufacture and assembly of the chair.

The model of the folding chair shown consists of the following parts:

• Rear legs (1) - 2 pcs. In this design, they are shorter than the front ones, and the main support load falls on them. The legs have the following dimensions - 475 × 40 × 20 mm.
• Front legs (2) - 2 pcs. These parts are both legs and supports for the backrest, their size is 837 × 40 × 20 mm.
• Backrest elements - 2 pcs., prolegs - 2 pcs., and a crossbar reinforcing the back frame - 1 pc. (3). The size of these elements is 403×70×20 mm.
• Side drawers (5) -2 pieces, have the following dimensions - 470 × 40 × 20 mm.
• Seat (6), consisting of 6 boards measuring 440×50×20 mm. This part can also be made from a solid plywood panel measuring 440x470x15mm.

In addition to these parts, you will need wooden dowels, wood glue, bolts with washers and nuts 50 mm long, 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter and self-tapping screws.

Parts are made of board or plywood 20 mm thick in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Before starting work on each of the parts, it is necessary to cut blanks for them from the selected material, according to the dimensions indicated above. This process can be done with a jigsaw or a circular saw. Further, all blanks are well processed with a grinder, and their corners are rounded by a milling cutter.
	The front legs at the bottom should have a bevel, as they will be located at an angle of 60 degrees relative to the floor surface, so the stubborn part of the leg is cut at an angle of 30 degrees. It is best to carry out this operation using a miter box.
	The upper side of the front leg is rounded to give the product an aesthetic appearance, as well as for more comfortable use of the chair. The next step on the prepared legs is the marking of the grooves for installing the spikes of the back and bottom parts in them. After marking, the grooves are selected - this operation is carried out using a milling cutter or a drill with a drill with a diameter of 9 mm, and then the holes are combined with a chisel and polished.
	Further, two side parts are made from a bar 470 mm long - drawers. The rounding of two corners is marked on the beam, as well as the location of holes for installing dowels with a diameter and depth of 15 mm. Accordingly, the inserts should be 30 mm long and 15 mm in diameter. These elements are fixed in the holes with glue and are intended for installing the grooves of the rear legs on them. The dowel will move along the groove of the rear leg when folding and unfolding the chair. In addition, a hole is drilled in the middle part of the part, through which the front leg will be screwed onto the side. The screw must be completed with washers and a nut, have a length that allows you to freely fold and unfold the chair.
	The edges of the tsarg are rounded with an electric jigsaw, and then leveled with a milling cutter or sandpaper.
	Next, five identical parts are made. The two will form the backrest, and one more will serve to fasten the lower part of the front legs, and the remaining two will serve to stiffen the rear frame. To do this, in bars 403 mm long, spikes 15 × 9 × 50 mm in size are cut out on the sides.
	The spikes are cut with a jigsaw or router, and then adjusted with a knife, after which they are polished with sandpaper.
	The next step is to make two rear legs from a 475 × 40 mm beam. Their upper side is rounded, and the inner part is marked for selecting three grooves. The lower and upper grooves will serve to fasten the legs together into the frame, and the middle ones for moving the dowels installed in the side tsargs along them.
	It must be said that the drawing does not show the groove intended for the upper jumper of the rear frame. But it is clearly visible in this illustration. This element can have the same dimensions as the back parts or it can be made in a round shape, as shown in the picture. In the latter case, the jumper should have a cross-sectional diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm, and blind holes are drilled for it in the rear legs using a drill. Without these fasteners, the chair will not have the necessary rigidity and strength.
	The grooves in the two legs must be exactly the same size and exactly opposite each other, in a mirror image, otherwise the chair will not fold. The dimensions for their selection are taken from the drawings.

When all the details of the structure are ready, you can proceed to the assembly of the folding chair. It is done in the following order:

• The first step is going to the seat of the chair. Its boards are evenly distributed along the side tsargs, and the tsargs must be installed strictly parallel to each other, and the seat boards - perpendicular to them. Then their exact position is marked, after which they are planted on glue. After it dries, two holes are drilled in the edges of the boards, through which they are fixed on the side parts with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are necessarily screwed “under the sweat”, and their hats are covered with putty on wood.
• Next, the back frame of the chair is assembled. The upper jumper and the lower proleg are glued into it, and at the same time the frame is immediately installed with grooves on the dowels protruding from the side tsargs. After that, the structure must be pulled together in clamps until the glue in the connecting nodes has completely dried.
• Then, in the grooves of one of the front legs, the details of the back and lower prongs are glued on.
• The next step, the front leg, with the parts glued into it, is fastened with a screw to the side drawer. The screw is usually taken M8, 50 mm long.
• After that, the spikes located on the other side of the parts of the back and the proleg are smeared with glue, and then inserted into the grooves of the second front leg, which is also pivotally connected to the drawer with a screw.
• The finished glued structure must be pulled together in clamps and left to dry completely.

The chair is tested after the adhesive has dried and all tightening devices have been removed from the chair.

If there is a desire to make a chair model you like for your home, then you need to firmly understand that it will be quite difficult to do without certain tools. Some work is simply impossible to carry out without them, while others will take too much time and effort. Therefore, if there is a strong desire to do carpentry, you should definitely get at least a minimum set of high-quality power tools that will bring the product to the ideal.

However, you can find interesting recommendations for the manufacture of original pieces of furniture from non-traditional materials that do not require carpentry tools. Example - shown in the video, where the master demonstrates the process of assembling a chair from. There may be questions about the design of the chair itself, but the idea itself is excellent, and the scope for creativity in this direction is boundless.

Video: garden chair made of 40 mm polypropylene pipe

The difficulties in caring for children are largely due to the fact that buying everything you need can be quite a task for the family budget. Another question is whether parents manage to find exactly what they would like in stores, or in fact there is nothing ideally suitable among the assortment. Both reasons that prevent the purchase of a particular product, one way or another, suggest that it would be nice to make it yourself. For example, a high chair - if dad has enough experience with various tools, he may well make it with his own hands.

Peculiarities

Contrary to its seeming simplicity, a do-it-yourself highchair is not an easy task to complete without any preparation. Do not start work until you have a clear understanding of how the end result should look like, and what operations will have to be performed to achieve this.

Also, don't ignore the calculations. Any chair should be strong enough to withstand its “passenger”, and the child, although not heavy, will not sit neatly on it, especially since the dimensions of such furniture are also small.

Strength requirements are relevant not only for basic materials, but also for fasteners, be it self-tapping screws, glue or grooves. In addition, the baby is constantly growing, and it makes sense to make a high chair with a margin of at least a couple of years in advance. For all its strength, the product should be comfortable, that is, approximately correspond to the dimensions of the owner.

Also try to ensure the proper lightness of the furniture being made - it should be convenient for the owner to independently move his chair to where he wants to sit at the moment.

Don't forget to stay safe. Furniture, in any case, cannot be traumatic, and children's furniture even more so. No sharp edges are allowed, and if wood is the main material, as happens in most cases, then it must be carefully sanded to avoid peeling splinters. When covering the finished product with varnish or paint, give preference to natural - children tend to put everything in their mouths, and can be poisoned by a toxic coating.

Finally, remember that this chair is for a child. In addition to suitable sizes, it is also desirable for a piece of furniture to be beautiful. If complex decor is not for you, try to at least paint it in bright colors.

Drawings, dimensions, diagrams

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of parts, it is necessary to draw up a drawing with dimensions - this is the only way all the components will ideally fit one to the other. You can use either one of those ready-made options that are already posted on the World Wide Web, or draw up a diagram yourself. It is important to note here that there are blueprints and instructions on the Internet explaining how to make a standard look table and chair, so they are usually not suitable for those who want to create something original - for example, an elephant chair.

• Drawing a table and chairs, which can be made in the form of a kit, it is not necessary to strictly follow the principles of drawing: there are not so many details in them that they cannot be kept in the head. For us, the main thing is to make sure that all dimensions converge, and the parts fit perfectly with one another, but the ways of connecting individual parts must be present on the drawing. In general, it can be presented schematically, without a high accuracy of the drawing.

• Think over the dimensions (or choose ready-made drawings based on them), based on the convenience of the child. Those chairs are considered comfortable, the seat of which is at the level of the knee or slightly lower. In the case of a highchair, it is recommended to make the seat a little higher, because the child will probably still grow. At the same time, do not overdo it: if it is difficult for the baby to climb onto the seat, then the product can be considered unsuccessful.

• Determining the size of the seat itself, keep in mind that the owner should fit freely on it, but do not make it too big - this will make the chair heavier and difficult to carry. The normal height of the back is about two thirds or three quarters of the wearer's back, making it higher than the neck is already impractical. When determining the thickness of future parts, rely only on the strength of the selected material and the weight of the child.

materials

In terms of ease of processing and environmental friendliness among the materials for the manufacture of children's furniture, wood and its derivatives undoubtedly hold the palm. Therefore, most often you can find a wooden chair. However, you can not choose any tree - here, too, it is worth considering before proceeding with the manufacture. The most popular among all types of wood is beech. They have a strength reminiscent of oak, but are easier to work with and less expensive. In general, it is hardwoods that are considered a priority. Of the inexpensive options, birch is often chosen, you can also consider linden.

From softwood, spruce and pine are suitable for making furniture, but the resin contained in any such wood is dangerous - it can stain clothes, and it can also pose a health hazard. Regardless of the specific species, choose a homogeneous tree, without knots and cracks, with an even texture.

The material of the seat may be similar to the material of the body, or it may be fundamentally different. In order to save money and achieve greater flexibility, the seat is also made from plywood, and even from chipboard. When choosing them, give preference only to the most durable types, but remember that in any case they are inferior in terms of durability to solid natural wood.

For increased softness, the seat can be additionally equipped with a small foam cushion, sheathed with a fabric that is pleasant to the touch.

There is also such an option for sitting as made from plastic bottles - both whole and chopped. Harmful plastic, present in the form of garbage in any apartment and polluting the environment, could get a second life, especially since its strength and durability are very high. This option is still much less common due to the difficulty of securely fastening individual parts, as well as the not very attractive appearance of the finished product.

Colors and decor

For all its practicality and convenience, the baby will definitely not like the chair if it cannot be described with the word “beautiful”. No one makes any special chairs for teenagers, and for young children, brightness and attractiveness are very important. Therefore, do not limit yourself to only one colorless varnish or discreet monochromatic solutions. A solid color is generally acceptable only if a light or very bright shade is chosen - often it is red or yellow, the so-called "warm" tones.

If drawing is not alien to you, please your child with interesting design solutions. You can go the "adult" way, painting the frame in one color, and the seat and back in another, or you can focus on the children's desire for a bright and defiant one. The simplest option is the “rings” on the legs of the chair, any patterns and even just blots are also acceptable - provided that it looks cute and positive. Regardless of how much and what kind of paint you use, do not forget - it should not be toxic.

If you have a creative streak and a desire to complicate the task a little for the common good of the cause, you can perform a more complex decor. As an option, decorate the legs or the back of the chair with carvings, but adults would like this solution more. But for a child, an ornament in the form of one or another animal will be a chic solution. The classic option is when the back is cut out to resemble an elephant, or any other animal that is cute for a child, and then painted to look more like a "cartoon" character.

Covers can also become a kind of decor. In addition to their typical functions, such as simplifying the cleaning of furniture and increasing the comfort of its use, they can also decorate the back of the chair. Ideally, they should depict the child's favorite hero, characters from popular fairy tales, or the same animals. Mom can help with making a cover for dad, especially if she knows how to embroider or has skills in appliqué fabric. If the mother does not have such talents, you can simply change the cover from the clothes on which the necessary pictures were applied by the factory method.

For the youngest children

The youngest children so far sit on the highchair for only one thing - eating. It is important and necessary to teach a child to eat while sitting, and indeed to sit, in particular, at the table. However, the features of its development at this stage do not allow the use of ordinary chairs for this. The problem lies in the fact that a simple chair does not have a back with handles, and a tiny child himself will not be able to sit on it evenly, and will simply fall.

As for highchairs, their dimensions usually do not allow you to choose a normal table for them. In this situation, a special highchair for feeding will be an excellent way out.

Such furniture should be comfortable for both the child and his mother - so far the child cannot eat on his own, so the mother will have to spoon-feed him. For the convenience of this operation, the chair is made at a normal height, or even a little higher - so that the mother does not bend over. The actual period of use of such a chair is about a year, so if you have one child and the family does not plan a second one at all, you can choose not the most durable materials for manufacturing.

In terms of manufacturing, the highchair is perhaps the most complex - it has the largest number of parts. The relatively small seat is raised high above the floor, which makes it necessary to resort to installing additional stiffeners between the legs - for improved structural stability.

Given the specifics of the child of the appropriate age, both the backrest and the railing are simply necessary - they must completely exclude the possibility of the baby falling. Moreover, the barrier should also be in front, although it has another useful function - it plays the role of a countertop on which food will be placed. The space under the tabletop is left free - the baby will stick his legs in there.

Cutting and assembling such a chair is quite simple. First, according to the drawing, two identical side halves are cut out, which are then interconnected by the seat, backrest and stiffeners using grooves, glue or self-tapping screws. Before assembly, all individual parts should be sanded to a perfectly smooth state, the finished product is varnished or painted - ready.

Models for an older child

The peculiarity of highchairs for children who have finally come out of infancy lies in a significant variety of design options, limited only by the creator's imagination. The back is still considered a mandatory attribute, but the railing is no longer there, as are the front barriers. It is not worth saving on materials in this situation - if the furniture is made with a margin in size, then the child will be able to use his high chair for many years.

The manufacturing process consists of a few simple steps:

• Think over the design to the smallest detail and draw up a drawing. Decide on the number of body parts - whether it will simply consist of two solid halves or from separate legs and separate supports for the seat, whether the backrest base will be a continuation of the rear legs or it is attached separately, and so on. Calculate everything, including the thickness of the seat and legs, provide stiffeners and additional supports for the seat in advance. Provide grooves, designate places for screws.
• If doubts about the correctness of the selected parameters still remain, try to assemble a temporary cardboard chair according to the drawing. Unfortunately, it does not have the same strength to test the product from all sides, and it differs in thickness from wood or plywood, which must also be taken into account when specifying dimensions, but you will get a visual idea of ​​​​the future product.

• Start cutting out individual parts from wood or plywood. It is advised to start with the body. Well, if there are a lot of identical parts in the set, then the subsequent ones can be cut out by simply tracing the already finished first one. If your design allows, don't put off assembly until you've cut everything out - start as soon as you have at least two pieces that need to be connected. This will help you immediately notice any design flaws, if any. After the parts are ready, sand them to a smooth state.
• When all the elements are ready, proceed to the final assembly. Do not limit yourself to one type of fastener, in particular, glue the grooves - this will significantly strengthen the product and increase its durability. Ensure that the grooves go as deep as possible - tap on the joints with a hammer to make the fastening more reliable.
• The last step is varnishing and staining.

No matter how detailed and intelligible a theoretical explanation is, it is unlikely to be compared in terms of information content with a good example, because it is better to see once than hear a hundred times.

H and the video is one of the best examples of how to make a highchair with your own hands. The master tells literally everything, including the dimensions of the parts he used, so you can even do without a drawing, just repeating what he says. The resulting chair is quite simple in design, but easy to make. You can find many other similar videos on the network, but the models there are always approximately the same, but here the process is shown in great detail and clearly.

Watch a master class on making a highchair with your own hands:

The principle of making a baby highchair, in general, is similar, but it is worth studying in more detail both because of the increased complexity of the design, and simply because another master is already talking, who can reveal some new points.

How to make a baby highchair, see the video:

If you still need to think about the economy of a home-made stool, then making a chair with your own hands is definitely justified: an ordinary high chair from a home workshop may look no worse than a purchased one, but it will cost 2-3 times cheaper. This is if you purchase material from scratch, without using accumulated stocks. And if you swing at the exclusive, which with a chair is quite possible for a craftsman of an average hand, then the savings will reach limits that are simply unimaginable, see at the end.

There is another important point. The chair differs from not only technically, as will be discussed later, but also ideologically. The stool is essentially a utilitarian product; it is generally considered bad form to keep stools in the living room, poufs are better. And the chair belongs to the pieces of furniture that define the face of the interior no less than the table, or even more. Subtle experts in etiquette judge the dignity of a person by the quality and condition of his shoes, and the state of his affairs - by the chairs in the house. If a person has the ability, time and desire to make a chair with imagination and taste, as, for example. in the photo, then he deserves trust, even if he is still in cramped circumstances. And these are only non-transformable chairs; folding and, say, step-ladder chairs are a special class of joinery, which we will discuss later.

Note: subtleties of high treatment sometimes reach curiosities. Here is how, for example, a certain British lord sailor put it about the first wife of Napoleon I, Josephine de Beauharne: “In England, she could become a real lady. Just look at the contours of her stern!

How is the chair made?

Chairs are generally divided into 2 classes: living rooms and dining rooms. The difference is primarily in the seat, for dining rooms it is narrower at the back and slightly higher. So they came up with it back in time immemorial, so that it would be more convenient for the servants to serve the feasting, and for those to sit straighter for the sake of absorbing more food and drinks. Structurally, the dining chair differs from the living room in that the legs are located lower, this is required by the conditions for ensuring strength. How the chair is generally arranged and what are the approximate dimensions of both, is shown in fig.

Dining chairs are not currently essential items; most people in all cases make do with living rooms. A drawing with details of the arrangement of a conventional seating chair is shown in fig. Its feature is straight rear legs, which saves material and simplifies work. A physiologically acceptable sitting posture is provided by the arch of the back. It will not be difficult for a middle-level home master to draw up a detail according to it and the general dimensions, and the subtleties encountered in the work are described below.

Note: blanks are collected in packages for batches of 4 chairs for the sake of convenience and accuracy of marking with a manual measuring tool. With such an organization of work, the quartets of chairs turn out to be exactly the same, this is the first subtlety.

Why is a chair not a stool

At first glance, it seems that the chair is just a stool with a back. But just the back makes it completely different from the stool in terms of mechanics: they rely on it, or even fall apart. If a stool can be generally considered as something solid, working mainly in compression; well, even for bending and shearing when rocking, then in the chair the loads from the junction of the longitudinal sides with the rear legs are much higher, of a different nature and spread over the structure in a rather bizarre way. Therefore, by the way, as a rule, they do not put transverse legs in chairs: they will not work in the structure, only the excess material will go away.

The chair is finished using common furniture methods: tinting with stains, varnishing, painting, veneering, upholstery. But technologically, chairs differ from stools in the following:

• The nature of most of the compounds used.
• The choice of wood - more than anything.
• assembly method.
• Soft seat device.

Joiner's spike connections

To make a chair with our own hands, we will have to master the furniture (carpentry) tenon-groove joints well. Initial information about them is given in the article about a do-it-yourself stool; here we mention something in relation to the chair.

Connections open and with through spikes in chairs for aesthetics are rarely used, as are connections reinforced with hardware: bolts, confirmations, self-tapping screws. A nail in a chair is like a car hood tied with rope.

Chairs are assembled on deaf, tongue-and-groove joints invisible from the outside; sometimes they are called mustache joints. The assembly is done with gluing, wedging of the spikes is often used, because. ordinary chairs with removable legs do not. A chair on wedged spikes is more laborious, but very strong and durable, because. all parts of the connection dry together.

How a blind groove (hole) is made for a spike is shown in fig. If you have a manual milling cutter for wood, then you don’t need to choose a surplus with a chisel, but you need to drill the edges of the hole: it’s easy to “leave” with an end mill. In this case, the edges of the spike are made rounded, only it will be neater and stronger.

It seems strange, but amateurs most often have problems with spikes: filing a workpiece with a hacksaw for it without “striking” at the base of the spike is difficult, and a spike sawn at the base is an unacceptable marriage, because. bond strength drops sharply. Knowingly undercut and remove the fold (extra tree around the spike) with your hands - the spike can come out “chubby” or oblique, which is no more acceptable. Therefore, it is best to make furniture spikes with a milling cutter with some simple devices, see the video:

Video: k how to make a furniture spike with your own hands

wood for chair

The coniferous tree from which such good stools were obtained is definitely not suitable for a chair, even hard larch. The reason: any coniferous wood is straight-layered, and in the chair of loads that can cause chipping along the layer - I would like less, but where can you go. Coniferous wood in the chair will go only in the form of plywood on the base of the seat.

Deciduous small-layer dense durable species are taken on a wooden chair: oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, elm, mountain ash. Birch will go to high chairs; and birch plywood - on folding. Preparation conditions for general furniture: room dryness (8-12%), not chamber drying, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion or other harmless biocides, for example. high-purity mineral oil for furniture, oil-wax compounds, acrylic compounds for furniture.

A tree for a chair will cost less if you take it not sawn, but in an array, and dissolve it yourself on a circular saw or a grinder with a circular saw in a home-made frame. For some products, eg. bar stools, see below, you can’t do without an array, because sawn timber of the required width or not, or very expensive. In this case, you need to know that decorative and structural wood massifs go on sale. The latter are more expensive, because their mechanical performance is normalized and checked, while decorative arrays are not.

The last thing to consider when choosing wood for a chair is that “decorative” defects are unacceptable. In a stool or tabletop, slanting, sagging, tight-fitting knots can be beneficial, eventually giving a beautiful texture, but a chair made of such a tree will soon break.

Assembly

The wooden chair is assembled without a seat twice: first, dry and without wedges, and after fitting the parts and checking the configuration by measuring the sides and pairs (oblique diagonals from the lower corner to the opposite upper one), finally with wedging and gluing. In both cases, the so-called. an apron from the hind legs, back and longitudinal sides, and the “apron” is already adjusted to it, see fig.

Note: note the way the spikes are cut into the front legs here and below when we get to the seat braces. With equal spikes, as in a stool, the sides of the chair do not cut into the legs, there will be no proper strength.

About frame details

All parts of the chair are made from solid wood. The temptation to make the rear legs prefabricated to save material is great, but don't: they will soon break. It is better to take up the headset right away, marking the contours on the plate of the board according to the template with a shift. If the chair is for dining, then in this case, the longitudinal sides should also be oblique / curved, and the question arises: how to make spikes with grooves? Beveled at home is very difficult, and not necessary. You will have to spend a little more material, but oblique / curved sides with straight spikes are obtained without much difficulty from a board as thick as the height of the side, see fig.:

Only now it is necessary to mill the spikes, using a mandrel with the desired angle, and always in a package: they remove the fold from the long sides, the package is shifted and the short sides are folded. The corners of the spikes are rounded off separately, this is no longer critical.

Back

The back of the chair, as you know, is solid hard, type-setting hard and soft. One-piece rigid - just a curved bar. They cut it out, like curvilinear tsargs, as well as details of hard type-setting backs, pos. 1-3 in the figure; we will not talk about the backs of Viennese and other complex chairs yet. The details of the backs on the spikes are assembled; we will leave chairs with backs on screws in the museums of Soviet consumer goods.

For a simple soft back, pos. 4, you need a straight top bar and, possibly, an intermediate support (run, “backboard”). The base of the back is made of plywood 4-6 mm. They are sheathed in the same way as the seat, see below, but the foam rubber is taken no thicker than 7 mm or is dispensed with batting / felt. Soft stuffing is placed on the glue, without bringing 15-20 mm to the edges. The decorative lining is sewn with a pocket, put on a padded base and sewn at the bottom. They put the back into the grooves selected in the upper bar, the back side or run and the rear legs; choose grooves by measuring the thickness of the back, covered with fabric. The assembly sequence of the chair changes:

1. collect the left (right) part of the apron with the back side, the top bar and the dry run;
2. put the back, possibly with a fit;
3. complete the apron by installing the missing back leg with its longitudinal side;
4. the front part is attached to the apron;
5. after checking the configuration and final adjustment, everything is sorted out for glue (optionally with wedging) in the same sequence;
6. the soft insert of the back is finally placed either on a dry one, or on a minimum amount of glue applied only to the grooves so that it does not squeeze out onto the fabric.

Seat

How the chair cushion is arranged is shown in fig. with a drawing at the beginning. Unlike the seat of a stool, the upholstery in this case does not stretch as much when the seated fidgets, so the inner upholstery of the base is not required. Plywood or a solid board with a thickness of 12-30 mm is taken as the basis. But the seat of a chair is more difficult to clean than a stool, so the foam padding must be covered with felt or, worse, sweat-absorbing batting. Solid particles of dried sweat are subsequently squeezed out of the seat.

The upholstery of the chair seat also does not have to be fastened as carefully as with a stool, you can get by with pinning with a furniture stapler without gluing. Cover the pillow with a decorative fabric in the usual way, trimming the scars that form at the corners. But the lining, made as shown in Fig. If the chair is upholstered in much more elastic and expensive leather than fabric, this is a must.

Reiki or jib?

The drawings of the chairs most often show the fastening of the seat to the rails, cut into the legs along with the longitudinal sides and additionally attached to them with self-tapping screws. This very technological and low labor-intensive method is widely used in industry, but for yourself it would be much better to lay the seat on the jibs, see fig. on right. The chair will be much stronger, the seat will be less dirty and easier to remove for cleaning.

How to put a seat?

The seat, simply laid on top of the support frame, loses all the advantages compared to the stool, and the chair frame experiences increased loads. Therefore, it is better to lay the seat of the chair in the lodgement formed by the drawers; for this, if the seat is on jibs, they are placed lower by the thickness of the seat base without a pillow. So that the front side does not interfere with the legs, it is lowered to the same thickness, which will only make the entire frame stronger, and the seat itself - with the extension forward by the thickness of the side or a little more. Then the front braces cut into the front tsarga flush with its top.

About curly legs

I really want to put a homemade chair on curly wooden legs. This is not at all as difficult as it might seem, you just have to spend money on thick bars: a 150x150 bar will go to the front legs, taking into account the margin for processing, and from 250x250 to the rear. How curly legs are marked on the uneven bars, it is clear from fig. Basic conditions: 2 identical templates are needed, converging with heads and heels on the inner (relative to the finished leg) edge of the timber. However, the convergence of the heels is not necessary, then they will turn out to be wide, like hooves, and the trace of their supporting surface will look like a horseshoe. The very technology of art education does not require: they simply remove the excess from the side of the inner edge and alternately from the outer faces.

Chairs different

We will assume that you now have a good idea of ​​how to make an ordinary living or dining chair. But only household chairs there are a huge number of varieties. Most of them are folding; It must be said that folding furniture is now experiencing a rapid flowering and is widely used not only as a temporary, but also to save space and / or modify the design of housing. Chairs here play by no means the last role, see for example. video:

Video: folding chair as a solution for small apartments

folding

Folding chairs, so to speak, of a classic look, look similar to both modern and antique, see fig. Their advantage until recently was that when folded they take up little space. But, firstly, the tilt of the back of such a chair is not optimal. Secondly, the mechanism requires the shoes of the rear edge of the seat to slide in the longitudinal grooves, which is complicated and weakens the structure. Therefore, patents for chairs similar to each other number in the thousands, and in the end the optimum was found not at all where they were looking for, see below.

For example, an attempt to optimize the design of the original folding chair is shown in the following. rice.:

There is only one drawback, but fatal: a huge overhang of the seat forward relative to the support line, which is why the first landing on a new chair can end in a collapse in the literal sense of the word. Other designers have tried to make the folding chair more ergonomic, either by making the rear legs kink, at the top in fig. below, or by transferring the hinge of the rack up, below in the same place. In both cases, the design is also not simple and the dimensions when folded are “sticking out”. And in the first case, the conditionally rear (i.e., connected with the sidewalls of the back) legs cannot be made whole, which is contraindicated for any chair.

A solution was found relatively recently, and when you see what it is, you involuntarily recall the statement of T. A. Edison: “Everyone knows that this cannot be done. There is a fool who does not know this, it is he who makes the invention. In this case, a plywood folding chair-slab, see fig. There is no need to describe it, and so everything is clear. The double seat support distributes the loads across the structure. In addition, by drilling rows of holes on the sides of the seat, you can adjust the chair for the rider; There are modifications for sale.

Canvas

All the chairs described have a drawback: they are rigid. Plywood, however, can be made soft, but the thickness when folded will increase. Such chairs are good for a picnic, but for long sitting you need something softer. The solution has also been known for a long time: chairs with a canvas seat and, possibly, a back. For example, in fig. below - a canvas folding chair-chair for a summer residence. The design is complicated, but the comfort pays for it, and such a folded chair is not much thicker than the classic one. True, the stretching falls across the seat, but since, lounging in the shade, the legs are not pressed under the chair, this is not so scary.

Even more use is made of canvas and canvas in fishing chairs; lightness and compactness play a role here. But the usual fishing and tourist racks, pos. 1 in Fig., for hiking, they are still bulky and the backpack is noticeably pulled. If you go camping by car, you can take a fishing plywood folding chair, pos. 2. Its feature is an additional swivel board on the back; on such a seat it is more convenient to languish with a sluggish bite.

For walking and in general in any case, the most convenient tripod chair, pos. 3. This is easy to do with your own hands; as shown on the right in Fig. A tripod with bamboo legs in a backpack is not felt at all. If there is a tight, durable rubber ring, like a carpal expander, then making a tripod chair is even easier: the rubber band is simply pulled up to the middle on a bag of legs.

Bar chairs

Recently, there has been an increased interest in furniture for bars and cafes. In fact, there are no adjectives “bar”, “bar”, “bar”, “bar” in Russian. It wouldn’t hurt, since these bars are everywhere you go, but it’s too painful to stick to the structure of the language. However, here let the philologists be wiser, and we will assume that the bar stool exists and it is worth making it.

Furniture for bars "from that" and "from that" and with an extra charge "for an asterisk" has become boring to everyone. Inexpensive and high-quality furniture for bars at an affordable price is well sold out, and here a master individual entrepreneur or just a handicraft individual can earn good money.

A bar stool is, in general, a tall, dining table-high stool with a footrest. The easiest way to make the base of the seat is from 2 plywood or solid circles 20 mm thick and 350-370 and 250-270 mm in diameter. The smaller circle is the intermediate link for attaching the seat to the chair post, and the larger one is the base of the seat. If it is hard, the circles are made from solid wood, polished and varnished; plywood bases go under close-fitting.

The soft seat of the bar stool is of the same design as for the soft stool, only it is immediately covered with decorative fabric or leatherette; it is possible and leather, if the customer pays. Decorative covers, especially on round seats, will slip off in the bar long before the end of the evening. Foam rubber for the seat cushion is taken as dense and elastic as possible, from the 35th number. From it you can make a pillow with a thickness of 60-70 mm, and from the 45th - 50th up to 120-150 mm. The lower circle is attached to the support with self-tapping screws from above, and to it from under the bottom they also have a finished seat.

On fig. above shows the detail and method of assembling a massive, solid bar stool; the dimensions of parts 3 and 4 are in cm. Please note that part 4 is not symmetrical, because 4 parts 3 are assembled by socket. On fig. on the right is a chair that looks lighter, with round legs. The basis of his seat is 2 identical circles with a diameter of 340 mm. The necessary strength is given to it by an annular proleg together with exactly the same foot. It also shows how to assemble and cut a footboard with a footboard: in a plywood blank 20-24 mm, holes are first drilled with a drill bit to the diameter of the legs, the inner circle is cut out with a jigsaw and the ring is cut along the outer contour.

Here in fig. - a very stable and rather original-looking support for a chair in a bar made of boards. The foot to it is made of plywood in the same way as the previous version, but put on top. By carefully cutting out the beveled grooves for the boards, you can give it the appearance of a solid ring, which is aesthetically pleasing.

What about children?

No, the children are not forgotten. It’s just that children’s furniture is so peculiar that it needs to be considered separately. Children, for all their imagination, are always pragmatists, naturally tuned to survive in the future. Therefore, they are tireless explorers. So there is no particular point in “licking” the aesthetics of a chair for a child: functionality and durability are more important here. Surprise is worthy of how such a trifle manages to break very strong things. Maybe the scientists of the future will understand; perhaps by revisiting the fundamental laws of nature. Joke, joke. We all were like that, we just forgot, but there are no indigo children at all.

The best material for a children's chair is birch or birch plywood. Its relatively lower strength in this case is not a hindrance: the parts are shorter and there are less stresses per unit area of ​​their cross section. But to collect highchairs on confirmations with plugs or dowels, pos. 1 in fig. higher, like adult furniture, it is not worth it: they will break it, pick it up, unscrew it. This design is acceptable for a chair for growth, with a rearranged seat and footrest, pos. 2. And it would be best to make a children's chair quick-assembly without fasteners, pos. 3. Pull it apart - it's okay, it won't take long to assemble. And he (she) will only gain quick wit and spatial imagination. So we give in Fig. drawings of a children's collapsible chair, and in addition to it - a scheme of a folding high chair for completely unintelligent ones. For dad, whose saw with a hammer does not fall out of his hands, repeating it, probably, will not be a problem.

Note: more in fig. below - a children's chair "in an adult way", on a frame and self-tapping screws. For some reason, boys like these more and break them less.

Ladder chairs

Both children and adults will need a chair that turns into a ladder at home. The first - so as not to rummage through the dusty pantry and not risk breaking the wife's jars-bottles, pulling out the stepladder. The second - to climb to the second floor of the bed or children's corner. This is especially important in small apartments, where there may simply be no place for a stationary ladder. In general, if necessary, in Fig. - drawings of an adult ladder chair; legs, of course, do not have to be curly. A children's highchair-ladder of the same design is obtained by a proportional reduction in size, except for the thickness of the steps.

Hedgehog under the skin

With the kindest, honest intentions and on a reasonable basis, without any psycho-engineering tricks. Take a look at fig. on right. Cool, yeah? Especially if you ask about the price of 1 (one) item. All the furnishings of a decent bachelor's odnushka, including a refrigerator, a vacuum cleaner, a microwave and an electric boiler, cost about the same.

The reason is the high labor intensity of such a chair, which is not amenable to mechanization-robotics. Or one that is so tight that it's easier to do it with your hands. Highly qualified and highly paid.

But, by the way, the technology for creating such beauty is ridiculously trivial, it only requires a lot of attention and accuracy. The materials are also common - wood, plywood, fabric, foam rubber. Large production areas and sophisticated equipment are not required, a garage or a shed is enough. This is the “hedgehog under the skin”: you can do it yourself at home!

Unfortunately, it is not possible to give at least a cursory description of this chair in a review article: its volume and labor intensity are quite consistent with the nature of the object. But, let's hope that we will still have the opportunity to tell you how to make a chair worthy of the royal palace with your own hands at home with an average family budget.

A chair is the most basic piece of furniture in a room. They are produced by a lot of furniture factories, mass production, put on stream. But you want something unusual! That is why some craftsmen decide to make a chair on their own. It doesn't take much to do this.

Varieties

Before you start doing something, you need to understand what types of chairs are. The complexity of the work depends on this. The simplest basic chair can be considered a stool. Its independent production is the easiest and practically does not require skills and special tools.

To get started, you can practice and make a set of stools for a summer house or garage. When the hand is stuffed, then you can proceed to the creation of more complex structures.

If it’s scary to start with a stool right away, then you can try to make a children’s hanging chair like a swing. In order to make it, you will need several boards of medium width, narrow sticks and a strong rope.

So, first you need to make a seat. Wide boards are sawn so that a square or rectangular seat can be folded out of three boards. On the one hand, short nails are nailed to the boards to connect the boards together. The ends of the rope are connected to the four edges of the resulting structure.

Now the structure can be hung from a doorway or a strong tree branch in a summer cottage. For more security, you can add a backrest and armrests. They are connected in the same way as the parts of the seat. When the work is finished, you can sand, paint and varnish the product.

Other Models:

• The most popular type of chair is home massive chair with back. Often they are for children. All parts of this design, as a rule, are massive and durable. which gives confidence that the child will not fall out of the chair. In addition, it will be difficult for the child to overturn such a chair on himself.

In the manufacture of this design, you need to carefully monitor so that there are no splinters and other non-skinned parts.

• The next view is similar to the previous one. The only difference between them is that this one has a soft seat. You can make it from a beautiful dense fabric, and fill it with cotton wool and foam rubber. Making it a little more difficult than massive, since the soft part must be fixed on the seat carefully so that the sharp parts do not look out. You may have to use a construction stapler for this.

• Chair-chair it is based on both previous products, only instead of a soft seat it is completely upholstered with fabric and foam rubber. It's much more difficult, but worth a try. You can start by updating an old similar chair. Just drag it with a new cloth if the old one is frayed. If the experience is successful, then you can already make a collection of such chairs yourself. Sometimes springs are added to the seat to make it softer. There should be an abundant layer of soft material on the spring. This design resembles a sofa and is liked by many.

It is difficult to do it yourself, if only because a careful selection of springs is required. You will have to spend a lot of time in the furniture fittings store.

• folding chair very convenient for a small apartment where you need to arrange the furniture as compactly as possible. This type of seat can even be hung on the wall when folded, and lowered only if necessary, when guests have come to the house, for example. Often this type of furniture is used in country houses, where, as a rule, there is never enough space. They are very convenient to take out on the veranda, on the street.

• Another type of chairs that can most often be found in the country is hammock or deck chair. To make it, you need a beautiful strong fabric and good sticks. A deck chair is the basis for a hammock. If used without it, then the hammock must be pulled between the trees. It doesn't have to be a mesh at all. Moreover, it is not convenient for rest, since the knots of the mesh dig into the body and interfere with rest. You can take a strong beautiful fabric, sew a rectangle out of it. Sew sticks on two narrow sides, to the ends of which a strong rope is connected. The chaise longue has the same principle, with the only difference being that parts of the chaise lounge structure - legs - are attached to the ends of the sticks.

• There are several types of chairs that are unlikely to be made on your own without special skills, tools and experience. These include forged chairs(they need to be done in a forge, this is a very difficult job), school to correct the child's posture (for the manufacture of this type, special knowledge in orthopedics is needed, otherwise you can, on the contrary, harm the child and his posture. In this case, it is better to entrust the work to a professional).

• Of the same type are bar chairs, if they are not a simple design of one leg and seat. As a rule, a simple design is uninteresting, unoriginal. The main distinguishing feature of bar stools is that their legs are much higher than those of ordinary ones. The legs of the person sitting do not rest on the floor, but on the crossbar on the leg. The height of the bar counter is different, so the bar stool must be made by carefully measuring everything.

• Screw (spinning) chair most often found in homes where there is a piano or pianoforte. For self-production of this type will require a lot of skills. From the first attempt and without experience, it is almost impossible to do it.

There are some more types. For example, Kentucky, on wheels, saddle chair, folding, with armrests, dining, collapsible, spring, Viennese, boat.

photos

Sizes and shapes

Chairs are of various types. They accompany a person throughout his life. Acquaintance with them begins when a person is still small - from a feeding chair. Throughout life, a person uses all kinds of chairs of various shapes, sizes, types and purposes. In old age, many people prefer comfortable, homely. cozy rocking chairs.

The shapes of the chairs are also very diverse. Famous world interior designers create haute couture chairs - such that, if they end up in an apartment, then for the most part as an exhibit, and not in order to sit on them. They are very beautiful and expensive.

You can find excellent examples in numerous catalogs of famous designers. Their chair can be round, triangular, rectangular, shapeless. But the classic rectangular or square shape of the seat is the most common and ergonomic.

If the chair is created with your own hands, then you need to carefully monitor that it fits well in size to the table. If they are not combined, then it will be uncomfortable to be at the table. Sitting too high will make you want to slouch, and this will hurt your back.

A seat that is too low will cause the shoulders to be raised high to allow the elbows to rest on it. Both extremes will have a very negative effect on posture. That is why the height of the legs, seat, back must be measured very carefully.

materials

Modern designers use almost any materials for the manufacture of unusual interior furniture. In words, it does not look as beautiful as in reality, because even a heap of rubbish in skillful hands can turn out to be a masterpiece.

The frame material can be any, as a rule, it is wood or metal. A solid wood base is by far the best option. He is the most practical. If the base is not made of wood, but of metal, then special pads are made on hard legs so that they do not spoil the flooring. This is especially important if the stool is heavy. It can easily leave unpleasant, but difficult to remove traces.

You can make furniture from cardboard, wood, plywood, a profile pipe (trade pipe), pallets, polypropylene pipes, chipboard, lining, boards, logs, laminated chipboard, timber, stumps, tires, improvised means, epoxy resin, glass and wicker from a vine.

Manufacturing technology

The complexity of the manufacturing technology also depends on the type of chair. If you follow the instructions exactly, then the job will be easy. It is important to choose good material so that in the process of work it does not cause inconvenience. Good quality wood can be purchased at specialized building hypermarkets.

The finished product must be sanded so that all sides are smooth. Splinters in furniture, both small and large, are a dangerous thing. You may not notice the small one, and after it sticks in, inflammation will begin. Larger ones leave serious wounds on the body, so the chair must be tidied up before coating. After staining, you need to apply a layer of varnish so that the paint lasts longer.

Easiest way to make your own buggy chair or bean bag chair. It does not require construction tools: only fabric, cutting and sewing skills, as well as filler. This chair is a fabric bag filled with pleasant filler. In such a chair it is convenient to relax, watch TV. Children are very fond of buggies, so you can sew one for the children's room.

And how to sew a bean bag chair can be found in the next video.

Instruments

Those who want to do something on their own at home often turn to stores to buy wood milling machines. They are used in large enterprises, and sometimes in home workshops. It is in woodworking that these power tools are most popular.

Woodworkers note that if you choose the horizontal position of the spindle, you can start developing round spikes and grooves.

What are cutters? There are several types of stationary milling machines. Prices for wood milling machines depend on different characteristics.

They are:

• Lungs. Such power tools are used for simple work. Their power is, as a rule, no more than 1 kW. Most often, these devices are used in the activities of the home workshop. They also include a manual milling cutter.
• Medium. This category includes more complex devices, with a power of up to 3 kW.
• Heavy. These are already professional machines that are used in large-scale production. The power of heavy machines is more than 3 kW.

You need to carefully study the catalog of wood milling machines to find power tools of all configurations. The principle of operation of the unit is based on the rotation of the cutter fixed in the spindle. This is the main movement of the apparatus. In this case, the workpiece itself is fixed. Auxiliary movement: the unit makes it perform straight and curvilinear movements.

There are models in which these processes occur simultaneously. The online store allows you to find a car that suits your needs. Choosing the right tool is the key to a successful job. You will also need other tools, such as a screwdriver, in order to fasten furniture elements with screws.

How to do?

There are as many options for how to make any furniture as there are types of it.

Simple

Above, the article has already described the types of simple chairs - stools and models with a back. Sometimes craftsmen decide to make it bent to add smooth lines and grace to the product. This is a good and successful solution, but, as in the case of a rocking chair, you will have to tinker with the curve of the tree. It might not work on the first try.

So, how to bend a board or any bar at home? First you need to steam a piece of wood.

You will need the following equipment to carry out the work:

• Steam chamber. It will contain the workpiece that needs to be bent.

• Heat generator or steam generator. It is important to choose a quality product so that it is safe.

• Thermometer. Using a thermometer, you will need to measure the temperature, it is very important to monitor it.

• Hoses various types or diameters of the tube, with the help of which the generator is connected to the steam chamber.

The steam must come out of the hole under pressure, so it is important to choose the right diameter. It is important to ensure that it is not excessive, otherwise the camera will burst. With insufficient pressure, the effect will not work at all.

At this stage, the thermometer comes into play. With it, you need to make sure that the workpiece warms up to the boiling point, that is, up to 100 degrees Celsius. It is at this temperature that the wood becomes pliable and can be bent as required. You can get absolutely any form that you want.

Before you start bending, you need to make sure that the bends of all parts are correctly correlated. This is especially true for rocking chairs, but you can read about them in the article below.

step chair

In everyday life, a chair-ladder-transformer made of wood or metal is very convenient. Making it yourself for the home is easy if you follow the instructions clearly. The proximity of actions to the instructions in this case is very important, since in the future it is planned to stand on the product to its full height. If it is performed incorrectly, the person using the stepladder may fall and be injured.

Growing

Very convenient and practical model in a family where there is a child. Furniture grows with it. The seat needs to be made of a constant size, and the legs will consist of two parts that are connected in different ways, depending on how high they should be.

The screws on which the structure will be held must be screwed tightly, but so that after some time it will be possible to unscrew them again, disassemble the chair and assemble it again with a new size.

Folding

Some home craftsmen decide to make a homemade folding chair. It is not as difficult as it seems, although there are specific features. The main plus is that such furniture does not take up much space in the room. Sometimes it can be used not only as furniture, but also as a decoration, if you hang a beautifully painted chair on the wall.

The design of the chair itself can be quite diverse. Sometimes compact models are made from plywood. But most often you can find models from a combination of different tree species.

Rocking chair

Elderly people spend a lot of time in soft chairs or rocking chairs, although the latter are less and less common in modern apartments, as they take up a lot of space and cause great damage to the flooring.

The manufacture of such a chair requires great skill and experience in working with wood, because to make the most important part that distinguishes it from other chairs, you will need to bend wooden parts. At the heart of the chair are semicircular legs on which the whole structure swings.

To make the simplest model, you only need a jigsaw, a drill and several types of wrenches. With little experience, you can make such a product in just one day.

Decor options

When the furniture is ready, you need to decorate the product to make it even more individual. To do this, you need to decide in what style the room will be decorated, where you plan to put the finished furniture.

Classic style or chalet will require uniformity and clarity of lines. Shabby chic, which is gaining popularity, implies more original options.

• Designers advise to do decoupage. This is such a variant of handmade, in which the surface is covered with a pattern from a special decoupage napkin. This technique can be applied to the legs, back, armrests. And if the furniture does not have a soft seat, then on it. Decoupage requires several tools, they can be purchased at almost any store for lovers of home art.

An important feature of this technique in relation to furniture is that it needs to be carefully polished and varnished so as not to spoil the decor during use.

• Carved legs and back- a popular decor option. Add such an ornament can those who are fluent in a jigsaw and other similar tools. If such decorations are made by hand, then the furniture will become the highlight of the house. The figured leg is a very original and spectacular element. Elegant furniture details are remembered and give the interior a special chic.

• Very simple decorate furniture– to make original and unique capes for chairs. Any beautiful fabric will do for this. You can buy it at the store or use an old blanket.

In addition, some home craftsmen make chairs together with their wives. Men at the same time make the basis of furniture, and women knit or sew a seat. Working together brings families together. You can attract children, then the finished furniture will become even more loved by the family.

• Another idea for those families where women know how and love to knit. Can do gaiters that will be put on the legs of the furniture. This solution will save you from two problems at once: a boring design and marks from the legs of a heavy chair on the floor. A chair with gaiters will not make unpleasant sounds when moved, and there will be no lines from the chair on the floor.

• Finished wooden chair can be dyed. At the same time, paints can be mixed, various patterns can be made using masking tape, painting in layers. There is an original version of staining with blots, but this method will require preparation. You need to apply a layer of base paint on the furniture. First, do not forget about sanding and priming so that the paint lasts as long as possible. Following this, the finished product must be taken out, for example, into the yard or placed in the center of the room, carefully protected from paint. To do this, you can cover the floor and walls with a film or a thick layer of newspapers. Then you need to dip a thick round brush into the paint and start splashing it onto the chair.

You can make blots of several colors or one. It is important to be careful here so that the chair does not look like furniture used in the repair. You should get some kind of smart blots.

• Some choose to decorate the option with carriage tie, others decide to arrange furniture semi-antique. This option is very elegant, but you need to age the furniture wisely. For example, there are special varnishes or other coatings that make it possible to make the finished chair look like it has been used for several decades, and the product can be attributed to antiques.

One of these ways is craquelure. The method gives a very unusual effect, but not everyone likes it. It gives the product a similarity to the chair on which there is an old cracked paint and this effect looks extremely unusual.

First of all, after the primer, a layer of paint is applied, which will be visible through the cracks. Then craquelure and paint are applied, which will be cracked. It instantly cracks and creates a beautiful effect. This effect must also be fixed with varnish when the coating dries, so that the decor lasts as long as possible.

And in general, a chair designed in this way, using white paint as the top layer, will look good in any interior.

Beautiful ideas in the interior

Sometimes furniture needs a solemn decor.

You can make beautiful drapery yourself. This design can be used on a variety of holidays. Color should be selected in accordance with the overall design of the room. The fabric must be beautifully draped and then secured with a wide ribbon.

It is best to take a bow either in a contrasting color or identical to the general drapery of the furniture.

The calculation of the fabric should be as follows: you should carefully measure the height of the chair, add 20-25 centimeters to the resulting number. The finished result should be doubled. This is the length that the piece of fabric should be. As a rule, the resulting length is in the range from one hundred forty to one hundred and fifty centimeters.

A kitchen chair in the kitchen can be decorated with a thin elegant pillow. You can also make it yourself. In order for it not to fall when someone sits down or gets up, thin ribbons can be sewn to the ends of the pillow. With their help, you can tie it to the back or legs. Velcro can be used as an alternative to ribbons.

When the pillow is not needed, you can untie it. If it gets dirty, then it can also be easily washed. It will be especially convenient if you make such a pillow so that the cover is removable.

Making a chair for a student on your own is much more difficult, since such furniture requires special skill. If such furniture is improperly designed, it will harm the child. The backrest should be ergonomic and help maintain posture.

You can arrange a ready-made chair with your child, which will help to get closer and accustom him to work. Whatever the design of the furniture, the child himself, who, in fact, is the owner of the room, and, consequently, the furniture in it, must select it on his own. So, girls may wish to design a chair in a classic or baroque style. Thus, the room will resemble the princess's room.

Boys will certainly want to decorate in the style of steampunk or in accordance with the style of their favorite computer game or comic book. You should not resist such a desire, because then the child may not like his new room and furniture.

Making furniture at home on your own with the whole family is a very labor-intensive, but entertaining business. If all family members are busy with one common work, then this unites them. The chairs created by the wife, husband, children together become a family heirloom. They will tell friends and grandchildren about them.

The process of creating such furniture will be remembered by everyone for a long time, perhaps at family holidays they will remember funny stories that happened during work or ideas that arose during the labor process.

If everyone likes the work, then over time, your favorite hobby can bring some income. Handmade fairs are often held in large cities, where such furniture is rare due to the specifics of production, but this does not mean that it is not in demand on the market. Of course, parting with a chair that the whole family made together will be quite difficult. But it will be replaced by another blank, which can be turned into furniture in the same way - together.

A chair is an important and indispensable household item, an achievement of European culture. This is a necessary part of the interior of any home, office and other premises.

Of all kinds and shapes, these products can be made from various materials. The easiest and most reliable way to produce them at home is from wood material. This article provides a detailed description of the process of how to make a chair with your own hands from wood.

All parts of furniture products are made from a set of wooden blanks. The most common material for chairs is beech, oak or ash. However, any tree you have on hand will do. For the production of any furniture, it is necessary to choose only dry wood.

Advice! It is desirable that drying be carried out in special dryers, because. under natural conditions, wood is susceptible to damage from insects, and also the humidity of the outdoor air will not allow achieving high drying rates.

The homemade chair with a back, which is proposed to be made in this article with your own hands, is a kitchen sample that belongs to the standard massive wooden version.

Preparation for work

In order to make a wooden chair with your own hands, you will need the following devices and tools:

• Miter saw;
• planer;
• thickness gauge;
• a circular saw;
• band-saw;
• template for marking legs;
• ruler;
• square;
• slotting machine;
• tenoning machine;
• manual eccentric sander;
• hacksaw;
• wooden hammer;
• spray gun for applying varnish.

Necessary materials:

• wood;
• glue;
• putty;

Order of Operations

Manufacturing of blanks

Workpieces in places of bends are ground with a manual grinder, and smooth surfaces are finished on a planer and thickness gauge.

Marking spikes and holes

When all the blanks for the legs and drawers are ready, it is necessary to make precise markings for the spikes and holes for them. This is done by hand with a ruler, square and pencil.

Making spikes and holes

Making the front

The front side of our product is handmade.

Backrest manufacturing

Start making the back. The back is made from solid thick timber. At the end of the beam, with a pencil, using a template, mark the lines of blanks for cutting on a band saw. After sawing, the workpieces are polished with a hand grinder.

1. Cut slots for the tenon on the back blank on a circular saw.
2. Cut off the excess with a hacksaw.
3. Insert the backrest into the grooves of the lower and upper sides, having previously smeared it with carpentry glue.

Assembling the complete chair frame

After that, you should assemble the parts of the chair together. To do this, they smear all the holes and grooves with their own hands, and connect the rear legs of the backrest. Then the front and rear assembled legs of the product are connected to each other with the help of the tsarg.

Important! For reliable gluing, all assembled parts of the chair must be clamped with clamps until the glue is completely dry.

seat manufacturing

After the chair frame is fully assembled with your own hands, the seat is made. It is made from a solid board, 50 mm thick. A workpiece is cut on a circular saw. After that, on a large band saw, the workpiece is cut in half. It turns out 2 blanks for the seat.

The workpiece is completely polished with a manual grinder, the corners are rounded. Then round the edges with a manual milling cutter.

1. Cut in half.
2. Grinding.
3. Milling.

When the chair is glued, the chips and caps of the self-tapping screws are puttied. The chair is completely sanded with their own hands, and varnished. Homemade wooden chair is ready.

Conclusion

Any product made of pure wood is an expensive pleasure. And if the question concerns chairs, then at least 4 of them are needed. Therefore, mastering the manufacture of chairs with your own hands from wood is very beneficial for every owner. The complex and expensive woodworking machines described in the description of this process are not available at home. They can be replaced with simpler ones. For example, instead of a slotting machine, you can use.

Instead of a band saw, you can use an electric jigsaw. The seat can be made from a shield glued from slats of 20 mm thickness, followed by grinding.

The article provides a technological process as a general example of the production of wooden chairs with your own hands. In each individual performance, procedures and operations can be changed at the discretion of the master, taking into account technical possibilities.

Video