How to drill a hole in the ground for poles. Drilling holes for poles: tools, technology, tips. Homemade unit for drilling wells

Provision of pit drilling services. (Orders are accepted for drilling from 100 pits)
Mounted pit drill (pit digger) for a tractor is designed for drilling holes in the ground with a diameter of up to 200 mm. to a depth of 1.2 meters, its drive is hydraulic, powered by the tractor's hydraulic system.

We provide drilling services in Moscow and the region: Ø up to 200 mm. depth up to 1200 . (Orders are accepted for drilling from 100 holes!)

The cost of drilling services for one hole will be from 250 rubles (depending on the number of holes and the remoteness of the object)
Yamobur has long been used as a manual tool, but the physical effort during such work is great, not everyone will be able to work manually, so it is better to use a yamobur that is hung on a tractor. Today, the pit digger is successfully used in municipal, road construction, as well as in forestry. Small-scale mechanization will facilitate your work and allow you to complete the work you perform in a high quality and in a short time, both in the construction of various types of fences, and in other works, save time and, as you know, “time is money”.

Suitable for:

drilling holes for poles
drilling holes in the ground
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services rent of a yamobur in the Moscow region
Drilling holes under the fence: Ø = 200mm. depth up to 1200. Services of a pit drill (tractor dimensions L=1815 mm, B=780 mm). The price of drilling holes from 250 rubles / pit

Various services for renting a pit drill: drilling holes for a fence, drilling holes in the ground for poles, renting a pit drill (tractor), a kind of hole digger

When building a house and landscaping, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing pillars, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required during the device. Make these holes with a motorized or manual drill. They are available in stores in sufficient quantities, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are a lot of them.

Designs and application

Easier-to-make garden earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of home-made drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not just about size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. Works well on "light" soils. On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is the basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a dredger can be made of.

materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4' to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.

Knives-blades can be made from:

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the ground easier to cut.

Piku-drill is made from different materials - there are a lot of its designs. They make just a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And also a combination of the two.

Pika - one of the tip options

And finally, about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and the method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of a solid diameter.

On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades - for pits of different diameters

In the disks themselves, holes will have to be cut in the center so that they fit snugly against the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, follow it with a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - it will be necessary to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

It is also necessary to spread the edges by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, then it is unlikely to be bent.

From saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, therefore it is sawn in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high performance. Even used discs have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters - large ones. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.

If the drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it has a relatively small weight, it is easy to work with. The process of work is this - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled it out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tormented by dragging a small amount of soil from the depth. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

And all these are handmade drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - to water, underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of discs is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut for the rod, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. Welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for piles TISE

In the author's version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. This makes the job easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel acts as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed movably, when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is loosened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

In the photo below - the second version of a home-made drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to the hinged structure with bolted connections.

The dredger is from an old propane tank. The earth is collected from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must constantly be moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are conditional, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.

For planting plants, making a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. They choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows an interesting design of the handle - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden drill

Both of these units work well, but the garden one often has to be removed, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden drill drawing

Video materials

Drilling wells under the pillars is a simple task. But for this work, some tools and at least a little skill are still required. It should be remembered that the creation of wells on the site is a mandatory action for any construction work.

Therefore, this article is useful to read not only for those who are going to build a fence. Drilling holes is necessary in the construction of houses, for the construction of pillar foundations for light buildings. But you never know, for what purposes drilling of wells will be required.

Preparation for work

Pits for fence supports are dug after preparatory work on the site. In this case, it is necessary to perform preliminary calculations. For example, a personal plot has a square shape with a perimeter of 120 m. In order for the fence to be installed correctly, the length of the sections should be no more than 2.5 m. You also need to independently make separate wells for supports under the gate and gate. Simple calculations suggest that about 44 holes need to be drilled.

To install fence supports, they need to be deepened into the soil. But not everyone knows how to correctly determine the depth of the holes for the fence posts. As a result of technological violations, many fences sag and fall over time. Therefore it is necessary:

In order to install any pole, you need a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the size of the pole. Too wide wells should not be made, as they unnecessarily loosen the soil. If the well is made according to the diameter of the support, it is impossible to perform concreting in a quality manner.
It is very easy to calculate the number of holes for the supports of the entire fence. To do this, it is necessary to divide the perimeter of the fence by the length of one section and add 2 wells for the gate and 2 for the gate. The width of the section is usually 2.5 meters. If the sections are less than 2 m long, additional and unjustified costs will be required, but if their length is more than 3 m, the canvas will sag and the fence will be unreliable.
Particular attention is paid to the depth of the drilled holes. Much here depends on the soil, the mass of the material from which the fence is installed, as well as the level of groundwater. If the soil is unstable, clay and sand predominate in it, the wells should be deep 1.2–1.6 m.

This depth should be below the depth of the freezing soil. Wells are also made under the pillars, when the site is periodically flooded with groundwater. If the soil is dense, the pits are made 0.8 - 1 m deep. In this case, it is taken into account that the support must be dug in at least 1/3 of its length. This fact ensures the reliability of the entire fence.

Drilling tools

Wells for pillars are quite difficult to perform. Each well is made of the same diameter and the same depth of the soil. This work is monotonous and usually takes a lot of time. The choice of instrument plays a big role here. Most often, wells for fence supports are made with a shovel, a hand drill, a motor drill and an auto-drilling rig.

Shovel

This is the cheapest tool, but also the least effective. For shallow wells or small trenches, a shovel is most convenient. However, it is qualitatively impossible to dig a deeply narrow well with a shovel. This tool will not allow you to make holes of the same diameter. They will turn out wider than the required size. But if the homeowner is about to install brick supports, a shovel is the perfect tool. At the same time, the pits are needed with a square section and somewhat wider, for the convenience of pouring the foundation. In addition, there is a shovel in every yard, and often there are several of them. If the shovel breaks, it is easy to fix it.

garden drill

Such a tool is not in every household, but still quite common. It is widely used in the garden for digging holes for seedlings and in private construction. It is heavy and expensive compared to a shovel, but its performance is much higher. The drill consists of three parts: the drill itself and the auger, the handle tube and the extension. With such a drill, you can make a well in the ground up to 2 m deep. The diameter of the drill itself is usually about 15 cm. The weight of the assembled tool is almost 10 kg.

When buying a drill, you should pay attention to sharpening. Many manufacturers do not sharpen the auger, and this can lead to breakage. If you bought an unsharpened tool, you need to sharpen it before using it. You can sharpen a hand drill yourself if there is a grinder on the farm. You can also use a file, but it is very long and inefficient.

Such a drill can be used not only for preparing holes for fence posts. With its help, they often perform drainage and garden work, drill holes for foundation piles in the construction of light buildings on the site and other work related to digging holes. Its device is quite simple, so certain skills are not required to use the drill.

A high-quality hand drill bought at a hardware store, subject to the rules of use, lasts a long time. The tool is easy to disassemble. This allows it to be transported in a car. If you use such a tool for drilling wells, others will no longer be needed.

Drilling wells under the pillars with a motor drill is one of the fastest methods, although costly. Motor-drilling rigs have a drive and drills with an auger attached to them. The drives of such an installation are gasoline or electric, depending on the brand. This drill allows you to drill many holes up to 3 m deep, spending very little time on the job. But it has several disadvantages:

the device makes a lot of noise during operation;
if the device is powered by electricity, you need a close location from the network;
if the drill runs on gasoline, you need gasoline.

In order for the fence to be extremely reliable, the poles are dug in at least to a depth of 80 cm. If the number of holes is multiplied by the depth, it turns out that it will be necessary to dig holes to a total depth of more than 35 m. It is very difficult to make so many wells manually. It is better to drill holes using a hand drill.

But there are times when you need a large number of wells of great depth. Hand drills are ineffective here. Then it is better to use drilling rigs installed on the car. Such installations are used for drilling deep holes, more often for artesian wells. For drilling wells for fence posts, such powerful installations are not used.

Hole drilling with maximum effect

Let's say you need to wake up a large number of holes for fence posts, and at the same time save money. Then it is better to choose a garden drill with sharpened blades. In this case, the tip and edges of the drill must also be sharpened, and only after that you can start drilling holes. In the places marked in advance, the drill is placed vertically. After that, it is turned by pressing the handle.

If the soil is clayey, then after 35–40 cm it becomes difficult to turn the drill. Then the drill must be pulled out, and half a bucket of water should be poured into the hole. After 5-10 minutes, the soil will soak, and it will be easy to deepen the well. If suddenly the drill is tightly stuck in the well, you need to slightly swing it from side to side. After that, the tool is easy to pull out. Adhering dirt can be removed with a knife, and while the auger is being cleaned of dirt, more water is poured into the hole. To speed up the process, you can start several holes and pour them all at once. So you can save a lot of time, and the soil is better soaked.

Any fence, one way or another, begins with marking and drilling holes for poles. The durability of the entire fence, the ability of the building to withstand harsh gusts of wind and withstand powerful heaving of the soil depend on how correctly the installation of the fence posts is done. Only after understanding the simple, but rather laborious process of drilling wells and pits, you can purchase material and get to work.

How and with what to dig a hole under the fence post

The depth of the hole for the fence post depends on the height of the fence structure and the weight of the web, the higher the fence and the heavier the material, the deeper the drilling under the fence posts. For a gate 60 cm high, a pit depth of 25-30 cm is required, for a two-meter column, drilling of 60-70 cm is required.

There are few drilling methods:

Punch a hole with a shovel or a specially made tool;
Use a manual motor rig for drilling wells up to one and a half meters deep;
Rent for the day the services of a drilling machine on a car carriage.

Advice! To select the scheme and method of drilling holes for the installation of pillars, first of all, it will be necessary to estimate the amount of work to be done.

Usually, vertical supports are used to install the fence, buried in the ground and concreted every 2.0-2.5 m of length. This means that for fencing a site of 60x10 m and a perimeter of 140 m, it will be necessary to drill for the installation of 50-60 pillars. For a small fence enclosing the "front" part of the site, 5-7 wells are needed at the most. In the latter case, drilling can be performed without the involvement of special equipment, if the soil in the area is relatively soft.

Drilling methods, advantages and disadvantages

It’s worth mentioning right away that it makes no sense to dig holes and wells for the installation of a one and a half to two meter pole with an ordinary shovel. That is, it is quite possible for a physically strong adult to dig a hole 60 cm deep, but at the same time it will be necessary to increase the width of the pit to 40-50 cm, otherwise it will be almost impossible to remove the soil from the hole. Thus, the volume of earthworks will double or triple.

How easy it is to do your own drilling

Since ancient times, drilling holes for poles was carried out using special devices and tools:

Converted garden tools - a drill shovel and a carver;
A garden-type auger drill or a converted tool for drilling wells for TISE piles;
Homemade machines and devices for drilling any number of wells for poles and piles.

Note! The most difficult task in drilling is to ensure the required accuracy of the vertical position of the well.

After installing the pillar, the concrete cushion around the support should be as symmetrical as possible, otherwise, with a sharp increase in the level of groundwater or an increase in heaving forces, the fence posts will roll to the side. If, for technical reasons, the direction of the well has deviated from the vertical position, it is necessary to stop drilling and level the hole, removing part of the soil.

Some of the oldest devices for digging holes for fence posts are a sharpened bayonet shovel and an ax soil cutter. The shovel is cut to a smaller size, the edge is bent at an angle. A steel inch pipe is welded to the ax and bent at a right angle. The result is a tool with a narrow, 5-7 cm blade at the end.

In this case, the hole for the fence posts is not drilled, but cut with periodic removal of the crushed soil. In this way, it is realistic to punch a well to a depth of at least 50-60 cm on any, even the most solid soil with a large amount of rock fragments.

The easiest way to drill holes is with a screw or auger garden drill. The device of the tool allows you to drill both alone and together.

On soft ground, drilling with auger tools is quite easy. Approximately the first 20-30 cm, drilling takes place in one breath. Further, before working with a drill, the soil has to be loosened with a home-made cutter or periodically pour 4-5 liters of water to soften the rock.

The cutting edge of the drill in the standard version is made in the form of two flat knife blades. This is the most loaded part of the drill. If the soil is sufficiently dense, with a large amount of gravel, the knife edge of the drill quickly loses its sharpness, therefore, every one and a half to two meters of penetration, the cutting part has to be corrected and reground. In home-made designs, handicraft forged knives, cutting nozzles from sharpened segments of automobile springs and circular saw blades are widely used.

Often, for drilling wells for poles, a pile drill is used for TISE supports. It is more difficult to work with such a tool, but this method gives a serious advantage over conventional garden drills. As a result of drilling, a widening is formed at the base of the well, due to which, after pouring concrete, the fence post acquires a high level of stability even on heavily watered clay soils. The use of a drilling tool for TISE supports makes it possible to build a fence even on heavily heaving soils.

Homemade unit for drilling wells

In addition to hand tools, many of the craftsmen build real drilling machines with their own hands, allowing them to punch a hole for a pole or a pile support for a fence without the use of expensive specialized equipment.

An example of one of the most successful home-made units used for drilling wells for poles and piles is shown in the diagram.

The design of the machine allows you to drill wells under fence posts with a diameter of 40-360 mm to a depth of 2.5 m. You can work alone or together. The performance of the unit is such that on the most difficult soil, drilling a well to a depth of 1500-1800 mm is carried out in 40-45 minutes. It will take another 15-20 minutes to move the machine to a new hole drilling site. With a manual drill, a similar amount of work is done twice more slowly.

The design of the machine is welded from a steel angle in the form of a truncated pyramid. To rotate the drill, a drive made from a GAZ-66 towbar is used. The drill is a one and a half inch steel pipe with welded blades from a cultivator and a thin twist drill at the end. The device of the machine is provided with a cable winch, which fits the lifting of the working tool to remove the drilled volume of soil.

Using Motorized Hole Drilling Tools

In the case when, for the construction of a fence, it is necessary to break through a hundred points for installing pillars, it is quite difficult and long to do such work with your own hands, even when using easel drills. For example, for a simple fence of 20 posts, with a net drilling time of 40 minutes and 20 minutes to move the device, it will take 20x (40 + 20) \u003d 20 hours of continuous work, or 2 days of work with rest and smoke breaks.

A similar volume can be completed by a special petrol unit in one working day. If you need to install more than ten fence posts, it would be more rational to rent a manual or easel version of a motor drill. The cost of renting the simplest gasoline auger unit will cost 1000 rubles per day, with a deposit of 6-10 thousand rubles. The amount of the deposit is determined depending on the price and condition of the equipment. For a longer period, the daily rate can be reduced from 1000 to 600 rubles, subject to a rental period of at least a week.

Conclusion

Alternatively, you can buy a new unit for drilling wells, today the cost of a gasoline unit in a package is at least $ 300. Usually, a new or used motor drill is bought together for several sections of a garden or dacha cooperative. With the correct use of the motor-drill, even after the installation of all fences and poles on the territory of the cooperative, the gasoline engine still retains at least 50-60% of the planned motor resource. In this condition, the unit can be sold at a residual value to builders or a private company involved in the installation of fences and barriers. You should not purchase decommissioned motor units in offices and organizations that provide services for drilling wells for fences. Their equipment, as a rule, is sold already in a very deplorable state.

Creating holes for fence supports is considered the most time-consuming and critical stage of construction, on which its result, appearance, strength and durability of the fence largely depend. Knowledge regarding the parameters of the holes for the supports and the tools used for this type of work will help to avoid gross errors.

Hole Options

Getting started, the wizard will have to perform some calculations and determine:

Number of poles

In order not to be mistaken at this stage, it is recommended to first calculate the width of the section. The value of this parameter should be a multiple of the length of the sides of the future fence and lie in the range from 2.5 to 3 meters. With smaller sections, the complexity and cost of work unnecessarily increase, with large ones, the fence will not be strong enough. Keep in mind that the higher the fence, the more often the posts are located.

For example:

if the fence will have the shape of a regular rectangle with sides 50x25m, and its height does not exceed 2 m, then it is advisable to make sections 2.5 m wide, then a total of 60 supports are needed (4 corner + 19 on each of the long sides + 9 on each of short sides)
if one of the sections is allocated under the gate, and the gate is part of the leaf leaf, then no additional supports are required. If the gate stands separately (the most common option), then one more support is needed for it, and there will be 61 pillars in total.

Fence hole diameter

It is always wider than the support, the only exception is when the post is driven into the ground. Typically, the size of the hole is 2-2.5 times the size of the post.

With a wider well, it will be difficult to fix the support strictly perpendicular for subsequent pouring, but the skew will definitely make itself felt in the future. In addition, too much concrete mix will be needed. With an excessively narrow hole, it will be generally impossible to perform concreting with high quality.

Hole depth

The value of this parameter depends on the characteristics of the soil on the site and on the dimensions and weight of the fence itself.

Taken into account:

soil freezing depth: the bottom of the hole should be 10 cm deeper than this mark;
groundwater level: it is necessary to dig a hole below this value;
climate features, wind loads, possible snow cover weight;

Fence weight and height

For light fences, poles are dug in a third of the length (that is, for a fence 2 m high, the pole must be deepened by a meter), for heavy stone and brick fences, another 20-30 cm is added. It must also be borne in mind that crushed stone should be created at the bottom of each well pillow 10 cm thick.

Tools Used

To create holes, you need a tool that can ensure the verticality of the hole, because the slightest deviation can further lead to a distortion of the section. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the desired diameter of the hole and take care to optimize the costs of effort and finances.

regular shovel

Among the advantages is the cheapness of the tool. There are many more disadvantages: it is impossible to dig a narrow hole with a shovel, and even more so to comply with the requirement of verticality. The high labor intensity of the work should also be taken into account. For these reasons, a shovel is used only when a frame is being dug under a wide square support (for example, under a concrete pillar, which will be made using the monolithic casting method).

Motobur

Using this device, powered by gasoline or electricity, you can create a hole of the desired diameter and absolutely correct geometry in just a few minutes. The rules for working with a motor drill are extremely simple: first, a hole is made with a shovel half a bayonet deep in order to remove the turf layer and mark the drilling site.

Then the engine is turned on, and the drill is put into action. It is required to hold it strictly vertically, pressing into the soil. The soil is fed up by the auger and accumulates around the hole.

Difficulties may arise when drilling on rocky ground. In order not to spoil the tool, it is necessary to work at low speeds, try to hook and lift large stones, remove the drill from the hole more often and clean it.

The only but significant drawback of a motor drill is its high cost: when it comes to building a single fence, buying a tool whose price is calculated in five figures is hardly cost-effective.

garden drill

It can be disk or screw. A disc tool is a simple device consisting of the actual drill, which is a disc curved as shown in the figure, an extension rod and a T-handle. The auger drill has a more complex design.

Due to its low cost, low weight, simplicity of design and the ability to drill holes of a geometrically correct shape and the desired diameter, up to 2 meters deep, a garden drill is the most popular tool for this type of work, so we will dwell on it in more detail.

Rules for working with a garden drill

Unfortunately, a builder who decides to use this device for the first time may encounter difficulties in his work, for example, with the fact that the drill does not want to fulfill his direct duties.

There may be several reasons for this:

Too dense soil. Plain water can make it softer. It is recommended, having drilled a hole to a shallow depth, pour a bucket of water into it and wait a bit until it soaks into the soil - it will become much easier to work. You can also try to soften the ground with a crowbar.
Master's inexperience. When working, the drill should be held strictly vertically, removed after 2-3 turns in order to remove the soil chosen by it and, if necessary, clean the cutting edge. When turning the handle, do not put excessive pressure on it, trying to speed up drilling.
Insufficient sharpening of the drill. Sometimes factory products are sold without sharpening, and such a tool, of course, is not able to cut off a layer of earth. Sharpen yourself with a grinder or file. Please note that the chamfer is removed from the top.
Wrong shape of the drill. This drawback is inherent in homemade disc tools, in which the drill is two semicircles welded to an extension at an angle to each other. Be sure to check its geometry: the angle between the semicircles is 30-40 degrees.

And, finally, sometimes the master simply overestimates his physical capabilities: in hardware stores you can buy a drill with a diameter of 10 to 30 cm, but the higher this parameter, the more effort will have to be spent on rotating the handle.

In addition, it will be even more difficult to work on very dense, clay soils. For this reason, experienced builders advise using a garden drill only on light, sandy soils, provided that not too many holes are needed. Otherwise, it is better to rent a motor drill.

And one more tip: it is advisable to choose an auger drill or a disk drill model with an auger, which is located below the cutting planes. It will simplify the removal of the selected soil from the drilling zone and facilitate the work.

How to fix a pole

Before installation, it is necessary to protect the underground part of the support from moisture: wooden poles are burned with a blowtorch and treated with resin, metal ones are painted. Further, the prepared support is installed strictly vertically in the center of the hole on a sand or crushed stone cushion and fixed with spacers.

Concreting of the support can be done in two ways:

The traditional, "wet" method involves filling the space around the column with a concrete mixture, followed by its vibration.
The method is used on sandy soils that are unable to accumulate a large amount of water.
If, on your site, the soil is clayey, like a sponge absorbing moisture, the force of frost heaving will push out the pillar along with the concrete sleeve. In this case, bottling is performed (“dry” concreting): that is, the space around the post is simply covered in layers with crushed stone. Each layer is carefully compacted.

Individual particles of crushed stone retain mobility relative to the support and each other, therefore, when the surrounding soil swells, they simply move, and the column remains motionless. In addition, a layer of crushed stone, working as a drain, removes moisture from the post.

The disadvantage of the method is that even with careful compaction, over time, the rubble sags, and the pillar loosens, so after a few months it is necessary to add rubble, and until then, further arrangement of the foundation is impossible.

When creating a light fence on soft, not prone to heaving, soil, it is possible to install pillars without concreting, by driving them into the ground: in this case, a small hole is made along the diameter of the support, a pillar is installed in it and hammered with a sledgehammer. The method requires great physical strength and experience.

If you are going to soften the soil with water to facilitate drilling, drill several holes at the same time: this will help to avoid downtime. Do not try to pull the garden drill out of the hole with a jerk, as this can hurt your back. It is better to swing it slightly, after which it will be possible to get the tool without any tension.

It is necessary to sharpen not only the end parts of the auger, but also the edges of the round plates: they are not directly involved in drilling, but by cutting the roots of plants, they will help to complete the work faster.

One last piece of advice: if this is your first time at work, try your hand at a pole hole in the most inconspicuous place, and no one will notice your mistakes. And only then, having gained experience, you can start drilling the remaining wells and do the job flawlessly.

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