How to make a storage boiler with your own hands. Do-it-yourself water heater: design, materials, assembly, installation Types of instantaneous water heaters

Flowing water heaters differ from storage (boilers) in that they heat the flow of water passing through them. Therefore, their power is higher than that of boilers. Self-production of these devices will help you make hot water in the country or at home. You will learn how to make electric, solar and other models of instantaneous water heaters with your own hands, and you will also be able to make a device that meets your conditions.

Types of instantaneous water heaters

Independent production of heaters

After weighing all the advantages and disadvantages and determining the type of device, proceed to the preparation of materials and the workplace. Most of the work is conveniently done in a barn or yard in dry, calm weather. If you are going to do welding or soldering, make sure that there are people nearby who can help you in case of an emergency. Also, keep a first aid kit near your workplace so that people who come to your aid do not have to run around the yard and house in search of bandages or other medical supplies. Tools such as a grinder and a gas burner require a responsible attitude. Neglect of security measures can end in tragedy.

How to make an electric flow heater

Materials:

tubular electric heater (TEH) with a capacity of 4–6 kW;
a piece of steel pipe, in which a heating element is placed with a small margin;
two pieces of half-inch steel pipe, in which a standard thread is cut from one end;
several pieces of sheet steel 3 mm thick;
nut and bolt for grounding;
anti-corrosion paint.

You will also need the following tools:

Bulgarian;
drill;
nozzle for removing dirt and rust;
welding inverter;
electrodes;
metal brush;
roulette;
a hammer;
sharp core.

TEN - the basis of an electric flow heater

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting work, all metal parts must be cleaned of dirt and rust using a special nozzle on a drill or grinder.
Take a piece of metal larger than the diameter of the pipe, and mark holes in the center for installing the heating element. Depending on the model of the heating element, there can be from 1 to 6.
Remove fasteners from the heating element and select a drill 1 mm larger than the electric heater leg. Make the necessary holes with this drill. Some models of heating elements are equipped with a threaded or smooth body designed to be inserted into some kind of device. In this case, you will have to cut such a hole with a drill or inverter. You can also contact a turner to drill a suitable hole. If necessary, drill a hole for the mounting bolts and cut the threads.
Attach this piece of metal to the end of the pipe so that the holes are approximately in the middle and outline the shape of the pipe with a core.
Using a grinder, cut the metal according to the markup, then make another circle of the same kind, only without holes.
Insert and fix the heating element in the circle intended for it. Make sure everything is tight. If something sticks out somewhere, find and eliminate the cause.
Remove the heating element and weld the circle to the end of the pipe.
Cut the pipe so that there is 1–2 cm from the end of the heating element to the second circle.
Step back from each end of the pipe 1 cm and cut two holes in it on the same line, corresponding to the inner diameter of the threaded segments.
Weld threaded sections to the holes, you will connect water to them.
Weld a circle with holes for the heating element and install the heater, then weld the second circle on the other side.
In any convenient place, focusing on the subsequent installation of the heater, weld the ground nut.
Connect the assembled structure to the plumbing and faucet to make sure that it passes water well and does not leak anywhere. If you find a leak, seal it up.
Remove the water heater, degrease and paint with anti-corrosion paint. When the paint is dry, you can install and connect it.

Most of these heaters are attached using various gaskets and nuts.

Warning: Water heaters of this type must be grounded. Otherwise, there is a high risk of electric shock. Therefore, before turning on the heater, make sure that it is securely connected to ground.

How to make a flow structure powered by a heating system

The principle of operation of this device is to heat the heat exchanger (coil) placed in the hot coolant of the heating system, for example, a heat accumulator. However, inserting such a coil into a new heat accumulator will not lead to anything good. Because of this, you will lose the warranty on the device, and may also damage the insulation, which will drastically reduce efficiency and increase heating costs. Therefore, it is necessary to independently make a small-sized heat accumulator, insert a heat exchanger into it and insulate the entire structure. You can include such a water heater in the rupture of the heating supply pipe and provide yourself with clean hot water. In an uninsulated water heater, some of the heating energy will be wasted, which will increase spending in the winter. If this does not bother you, then you can not insulate the device, this will make it more compact.

This device heats water due to the high temperature of the coolant in the heating system

To work, you will need the following tools:

Bulgarian;
drill;
welding inverter;
gas cutter;
soldering iron with a power of at least 300 watts;
roulette;
compass;
sharp core;
metal scissors or secateurs.
riveter.

This layout of the instantaneous water heater is well suited for self-production.

copper tube with a diameter of 4–8 mm;
sheet copper 2–3 mm thick;
iron or wooden round mandrel with a diameter of 10–12 cm (you can use a pipe cut);
sheet iron 3–5 mm thick;
anticorrosive paint;
2 90 degree corners from a half-inch pipe;
4 pieces of half-inch pipe 10-15 cm long with standard threads;
2 brass sockets (half inch) threaded;
half inch steel pipe;
thick-walled steel pipe with an inner diameter greater than 20 cm (you can use part of an empty gas cylinder);
medium temperature solder for copper and brass, as well as the corresponding flux;
fluoroplastic sealing material (FUM-tape).

For warming, prepare:

mineral wool;
steel corner with a shelf size of 50 mm;
sheet iron 0.7–1 mm thick;
rivets.

Instruction

Wind the copper tube around the mandrel. If the tube diameter is less than 8 mm, then it is necessary to wind two at the same time. The length of the spiral is 15–20 cm. During winding, slightly pull the tube towards you, this will help to avoid its deformation. Do not use a mandrel with a diameter smaller than 5 cm, otherwise the tube will fold or flatten due to too much curvature of the bend.
Cut out two round plates from sheet copper, the diameter of which is equal to the size of the brass couplings. In the center of the plates, drill holes according to the diameter and number of tubes. Sand both surfaces of the plates and one of the ends of each brass sleeve with sandpaper and use a gas torch, medium temperature solder and flux to solder the plates to the sleeves.
When the parts are completely cool, insert the tubes into them to a depth of 1 mm and solder with a gas burner and the same solder and flux.
Connect the coil to the water supply and turn on the water to check for leaks. If they are, then eliminate them.
Mark two holes in the thick pipe (case) corresponding to the coil couplings.
Drill them so that they are 1 mm larger than the diameter of the half-inch pieces of threaded pipe.
Clean the pipe inside and out with a drill bit or grinder.
Strip and half-inch pipes.
Lower the coil into a thick pipe, insert the threaded tubes into the holes and screw them into the couplings using the FUM tape.
Using solder, flux and a gas torch, solder thin pipes to thick ones. Do not overheat the thin pipe so that the FUM does not melt.
From the opposite edge of the body, drill two holes and weld two threaded pipes to them. If you have thicker pipes in the heating system, then you need to use threaded pieces of the same diameter and drill a hole for them.
Cut two circles from sheet steel 3-5 mm thick, the diameter of which is 11 cm larger than the body. If you decide not to insulate the water heater, then the size of the disks should be equal to the diameter of the body.
Weld these circles to the two ends of the body.
Connect both heating outlets to the water supply to check the resulting unit for leakage. If you find a leak, seal it up.
Coat the unit with anti-corrosion protection.

Proper winding of a copper tube on a mandrel will allow you to create a coil - a heat exchanger

If you doubt your abilities and ability to solder, then place a thick pipe so that thin pipes stick up vertically. Support the coil so that it is in the middle of the pipe, fill it with water up to the top edge of both couplings and proceed to soldering. This will protect the coil from overheating.

How to insulate a water heater with your own hands

Weld 7–10 corners to the body surface so that the second flange is parallel to the pipe surface. Weld not with a continuous seam, but with 3-4 tacks 1 cm long. This will reduce heat loss through the corners that come into contact with the outer metal sheath.
From thin sheet metal, make a strip, the width of which is 2 cm more than the distance between the end circles of the body. The length of the strip should be sufficient to completely wrap the resulting unit.
On both sides of this strip, make sides 1 cm wide.
Using secateurs or metal shears, give these sides a sawtooth look, to do this, mark them in a zigzag with a tooth in the form of an equilateral triangle.
Cut off the teeth opposite the corner from the edge of the strip.
Attach the strip to the corner, making sure the strip is oriented correctly so that it can be wrapped around the unit, because after installing the rivets you can not fix anything.
Drill a strip and a corner (5-7 holes) and fasten the parts with a riveter.
Cut a suitable piece of mineral wool and insert it between the corner to which the thin metal was attached and the adjacent corner.
Cover the insulation with metal and secure with rivets.
Perform the same operation on the remaining corners.
Weld the legs from the corner either to one of the round plates, or between the plates if you will be installing it horizontally.

Video: how to use a riveter

How to make a solar model

Here is a list of the tools you will need to get the job done:

drill or screwdriver;
stapler;
jigsaw;
glass cutter;
pencil;
roulette.

You will also need the following materials:

plywood 20 mm thick;
planed wooden block with a section of 5x5 cm;
planed board 10 wide and 5 cm thick;
black rubber garden hose;
foamed foil insulation;
self-tapping screws of different sizes;
glass 3–5 mm thick; plywood, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the glass;
wooden slats 5 wide and 1 cm thick;
knitting wire.

This water heater is made from a garden hose.

Assembly step by step guide

Decide what size you will make the water heater and where to mount it. It works best on the south side of the roof, in which case it is warmed by the morning, afternoon and evening rays of the sun.
Cut a rectangular base out of plywood to a suitable size.
Screw planed bars to it along the perimeter to make it look like a fire shield.
Connect the bars to each other, this will increase the rigidity of the structure.
Sheathe the inside of the resulting box with foamed foil insulation using a stapler. Lay the insulation with the foil facing out.
Cut pieces of planed board 15 cm long and cut one edge in a semicircle so that the diameter of the circle is equal to the width of the board. These will be the hose guides.
Screw the guides to the plywood from the side of the insulation so that the hose laid on them forms a snake. In the place where the hose turns, the distance between the coils should not be greater than the diameter of the hose. Using a jigsaw, cut two grooves in the bottom bar for the inlet and outlet of the hose.
From thin plywood, cut strips 4 cm wide.
Using a stapler, attach the plywood strips to the face of the joists so that they form a step that will prevent the glass from moving.
Raise the water heater to the roof and attach to the south side. If possible, install it horizontally, because the smaller the angle relative to the ground, the more efficient.
Lay the hose along the guides and secure with tie-wire loops. Attach the loops to the plywood so that they are not higher than the guides, otherwise the glass will burst.
Instead of a rubber hose, use a copper or steel tube 5-10 mm thick or a coil removed from an old refrigerator. In this case, the guides will not be needed, but the pipes will have to be bent so that the turning radius is at least 5 diameters. After giving the tube the required shape, cover it with a sheet of thin tin, painted black, and fix it in the body of the water heater.
Cut the glass to size, install it on the water heater and fix it with rails, which must be laid exactly on the beam.
Connect pipes to the water heater and supply water.

This instantaneous water heater was made from the radiator of an old refrigerator.

Features of using homemade products

Industrial instantaneous water heaters undergo a serious check, which prevents the appearance of defective units on sale that pose a danger to users. When making such a device yourself, you must clearly understand that no one but you will diagnose and detect malfunctions. If you do something wrong and do not notice it in time, then the entire burden of the consequences will fall on the one who is closest to the damaged unit. Therefore, before the first start-up and every 2-3 months, be sure to check the condition of the wires, contacts and welds.

Do not forget to open the water first, then turn on the heating element. Otherwise, the water in the unit will boil, and the tubular electric heater will burn out. In those devices that are sold in the store, a complex sensor is installed that reacts to the movement of water and supplies electricity to the heater coil.

Install homemade devices in places where human activity is minimal. This will protect you and your loved ones if for some reason the unit leaks. The coolant in the heating system is under pressure up to 1 atmosphere, so the length of the jet through the leak can reach 1 meter. Water with a temperature of 70-80 degrees can severely scald (burns of the second degree), so take these recommendations seriously.

A flowing water heater can be made independently, however, such a device will cost much more than a purchased unit and will be less efficient and safe. Therefore, its independent production is justified only if the models offered by stores do not suit you.

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It is difficult to imagine modern life in the country without the usual comfort. A heated country shower will help maintain the desired level of hygiene and comfort for those who love countryside holidays or work on weekends in the country. A simple shower already greatly increases the level of comfort for the backyard. In order to maximize the level of comfort, a summer shower with heated water will help, it can be used in any weather, thanks to insulation and a fenced-off changing room.

There are quite a few methods to equip country shower cabins with heated water on your site, properly equipping it, starting from a custom design and its turnkey installation at a specialized enterprise and ending with the purchase of individual units and the independent implementation of all work from a sketch and marking to installation towel holders and soap dishes.

If someone is quite satisfied with the average temperature of the water, so as not to get a cold when using a regular garden shower, then for some it is fundamentally important to have a warm shower with the ability to adjust the heating temperature. Based on this, it is necessary to consider all common summer and all-season models with their pros and cons in order to make it easier to choose the best option.

Titanium. A country shower equipped with forced heating can be equipped with wood or coal titanium. This method allows you to get hot water, regardless of weather conditions. To increase efficiency, it is necessary to mount an expander that will help ensure the circulation of water - the cold one will go down to the heat exchanger, while the warm one will go up to the tank.

The category of especially dangerous equipment includes equipment whose work is directly related to open fire, and if you do not have the necessary experience, it is better not to try to make a do-it-yourself country shower with heating based on a boiler, titanium or stove. The best solution in this case would be to buy a ready-made design with the appropriate certificates and a quality guarantee. But even in this case, there are serious drawbacks that relate to security.

In order to avoid fire, it will be necessary to install asbestos or thermal insulation protection. In order to mount titanium inside the shower cabin, you will need to carefully choose the material that will be used to construct the walls, floor and ceiling. If a decision is made on external placement, then it is necessary to take care of the titanium or furnace fencing to prevent children from approaching them.

Electric heating. One of the most convenient methods of heating is electricity, of course, if all the necessary safety measures are observed during the assembly of the structure. The disadvantages of such heating include a serious load on the network, which comes from heating elements or a conventional kilowatt boiler (this option can be used with a limited budget). When designing a country shower with a similar heating method, it is necessary to optimize the power grid in advance to obtain warm water.

Important: any electrical equipment (whether lighting or heating) is essential to install, in accordance with the requirements of safety rules: all cables, switches and sockets must be waterproof, and in addition, they must be equipped with reliable grounding for better protection.

Solar panels. The arrangement of a country shower with heating using a vacuum solar collector is quite expensive. Panels with vacuum pipes are accumulative water heaters. The principle of their work is the use of ultraviolet radiation from the sun, and not its heat to generate thermal energy. Equipment for such a shower can be bought, but also if you have special knowledge and skills, then you can make such a heated tank with your own hands.

Proper operation directly depends on the selection (it is necessary to take into account the load recommended by the manufacturer) and the quality of the equipment itself, capable of heating water. Based on these data, it is worth concluding that it is not worth saving on the purchase of equipment, as it may turn out that the money was spent in vain.

Preparing a place on the site for installing a shower

The choice of location plays a major role not only during the installation of a shower with solar water heating, but also for other types of showers. If you install a country shower in an open sunny place, this will allow the shower stall to dry faster, and if you also make an open riser (such as, for example, a drainage ditch), this will avoid the “eternal puddle” even during frequent use of the cabin.

Before starting work, you must also decide on the method of drainage - this detail can have a significant impact on the entire structure, for this it is necessary to foresee everything during the design, so as not to correct the finished structure later.

The most popular types of drainage in a country shower, perhaps, include the following:

the simplest is a direct drain to the ground or into a ditch through a drainage hole or cracks in the floor;
using a pipeline through a pallet or a drainage hole in the floor and transporting them to the sewer;
use of a septic tank.

Based on these dirty water removal methods, based on the availability of materials, conditions and budget, a huge number of options can be created.

The project is the most important part of the construction of a shower house

Before you start building even the simplest cabin or a shower for a polycarbonate cottage with a dressing room, you need to think over a project that will avoid serious mistakes. It is not difficult to do this, the main thing is to think over the end result and build on this topic.

The total height of the structure should not be more than 3 meters, since a person should be able to freely raise his hands up. You also need to remember about space. While in the shower, movement should not be restricted.

During the construction of the soul, you must follow the following characteristics:

booth dimensions should not be less than 1 × 1 m;
you need to remember that you will need to allocate space for clothes.

During the construction of a warm shower in the country with your own hands, you need to take into account a small area that can lead to the destruction of the entire structure. To strengthen the structure, you can erect a pile foundation, this will make it more reliable and durable.

Pile foundations are quite popular in construction due to their good reputation. The modern pile foundation is quite in demand, since its price is much less than that of its "brothers", and in terms of quality it is in no way inferior to them.

In order to build this foundation, it is necessary to use pipes whose diameter is 100 mm. For them, holes are drilled in the ground of such a depth that the pipes protrude 15-30 cm above the ground.

How to install a heated shower in the country?

The work on the erection of a country summer shower consists of the following stages:

Making a foundation (if the foundation is piled, it will be necessary to drill holes for it in the ground, for a filler - dig a small pit).
Installation of the frame (horizontal and vertical racks) and the upper ceiling for mounting the tank.
Hanging on one of the vertical supports of the door.
The frame must be sheathed with the selected material, which will play the role of walls.
If there is such a need, it is possible to perform thermal insulation of the entire structure and install a roof over the tank space (only necessary if there is forced heating).
Installation of the tank and heating equipment, reflectors, protective film (it all depends on which type of heating was chosen).
Hanging hooks, shelves and hangers.

In cases with ready-made options, it is worth mentioning a plastic country shower with a water heater.

Recommendations for choosing a ready-made country shower with heating

Before purchasing a tank for a country shower with heating, it is necessary to study what requirements are imposed on it:

profitability - low cost, but also the corresponding quality;
environmental friendliness - the materials used to make a heated country shower should not harm human health;
fire safety - is a mandatory requirement, if the shower is heated by electricity, all contacts and connections must be of high quality and reliable, taking into account fire safety standards;
comfort - being in the shower should not cause inconvenience, and the dimensions should be comfortable for swimming;
modernity - this requirement is imposed on the design of the purchased, as it must fit into the overall picture.

When choosing a purchased shower, it is necessary to be guided by the volume and shape of the tank, the choice of which is characterized by personal preferences. There are models both with booths and without them. It is possible to install various add-ons, such as automatic heating and draining of water, various hygienic devices and additional nozzles.

Additional options for a purchased country shower with heating include:

indicator responsible for the level of filling the tank with water;
shutdown timers and heating devices;
devices for filling and draining water;
thermostats.

The heaters can be located at the lower, central and middle levels.

There are pedal options and showers equipped with separate changing rooms, their difference lies in the price, the latter are more expensive, but also more comfortable.

Convenience during installation is another requirement for a heated shower, and since the shower is purchased, installation and connection should take a maximum of three hours.

The shower cabin should have a window or mesh elements through which light and air can penetrate, killing mold and fungus.

In the event that the country shower provides for the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to remember the elementary safety rules when carrying out electrical work. The shower is a place with high humidity, so you need to take into account all the nuances:

In order to make it more convenient to use the shower, it is recommended to replace the iron pallet with plastic ladders. Their advantage is that - the air circulates well and the water does not stagnate.
Thermal insulation is one of the main requirements for the normal operation of a shower with thermal insulation. For such purposes, polystyrene foam is most often used. This material is great for places with high humidity and at the same time it is quite easy to install. To achieve tightness, the womb is covered with an additional dense film. A room with this type of thermal insulation will be quite warm and comfortable. For year-round operation of the shower, the entire structure must be insulated.
The most common mistake when installing a heated shower is installing a leaky door and thick walls. As a result, due to poor ventilation, various fungi and mold begin to spread.
To prevent electric shock, the operation of the shower while the heating element is on is strictly prohibited.
Careful monitoring and maintenance of the correct water level will help prolong the life of the heater. Turning on the heater without water can cause it to simply explode. Repair of this type of product is not provided.

In order to create comfort while bathing in a country shower, water heating is essential. And warm water in the shower is truly a real treasure for avid lovers of countryside holidays and summer residents.

The problem of hot water in the absence of a central water supply can be solved independently and without large financial costs, with minimal skills.

Scheme of a homemade rectangular pulse generator on a microcircuit.

Of course, if you are not limited in your financial capabilities, then you can easily purchase industrial-made boilers. But with this option, you need to immediately count on serious cash costs.

A storage water heater can be a good way out, the price of which is quite affordable, but the difficulty of using it lies in the fact that for normal operation it requires a water supply pressure of at least 1 atm. Therefore, such systems are good under the condition of an existing water supply or pumping station with regular pressure.

Such an option as an instantaneous water heater, if you do not have running water, does not make sense to consider, besides, the amount of electricity consumed by it is quite high, and such a home-made unit is difficult to assemble. And its price will not be much lower than that of a factory-made one.

That is why it is worth considering the possibility of assembling a water heater with your own hands.

Whichever assembly system you choose, you cannot do without an electric heating element (tubular electric heater), which must be purchased at the store. But this will be the most serious cost of funds for self-assembly of the water heating system.

How to choose a heating element for a water heater?

Diagram of an indirect heating boiler.

Heating elements for such devices are a copper tube or a stainless steel structure, both ends of which are fixed on a flange. Heating occurs due to the conductive nichrome filament, which is located inside the tube. In order to protect the system from electric current, the thread is laid with an electrical insulator, which must also have sufficient thermal conductivity. That is why it is problematic to make such insulation on your own, heating elements are recommended to be bought, and not made on their own.

It should be noted that the flowing electric heater differs from the accumulative one precisely by the type of heating element. In the first type of systems, the heating element is enclosed in a special flask through which water flows.

The choice of this element depends on its power, on how quickly the home-made unit will heat the water.

The optimal power for a homemade water heater should be 2 kW, although heating elements from 0.9 to 6 kW are on sale. But if the power is less than 2 kW, then it will take too long to wait for the water to warm up. With a higher power, the wiring of a house (or apartment) can be overloaded.

With a tank volume of 50 liters and a heating element with a power of 2 kW, the water will heat up for about 1.5-2 hours, at the speed of a slowly boiling kettle. In this case, the load on the power grid will be optimal, and electricity will be required about the same as for the same kettle.

Electrical connection diagram of the boiler.

It is most reasonable to buy a heater with a thermoregulation system already installed. Such a system should heat water to a predetermined temperature, whose range varies from 35 ° C to 85 ° C, then turn itself off. As soon as the temperature of the water in the tank drops by 0.5-1 degrees, the heating element automatically resumes its work.

It is worth paying attention to the length of the heating element tube: the shorter it is, the smaller the area of its heat transfer and the higher the temperature on the heating surface. Accordingly, on a heating element of this configuration, scale forms much faster. In turn, scale impairs the parameters of heat transfer from the heating element to water, and if it is present, the heating element will almost constantly work for heating, which will greatly increase power consumption. Yes, and a heating element broken due to scale is easier and cheaper to throw out than to repair.

Storage water heater with self-filling function

To install such a system, you can purchase a ready-made washstand with a built-in heating element, usually its storage capacity is 10-12 liters. Or you can design a water heater yourself by purchasing only a heating element and choosing a suitable container.

Scheme of a homemade wood-fired boiler.

Many masters, assembling a home-made water heater, miss this moment - and in vain. Not without reason, in the event of a leak and breakage of a water heater made by an industrial method, if this anode is not replaced once a year, the warranty service for the equipment does not apply.

The magnesium anode is a steel rod with a magnesium coated tip. This tip is the anode. It is necessary for the splitting of water and neutralizes the particles that form scale, reacting with them. If you mount a water heater without an anode, then the heating element will fail very quickly.

Therefore, when purchasing a tubular electric heater, give preference to those models on which a magnesium splitter is already installed or purchase an anode separately.

Tank for automatic water heater

Scheme of a homemade water heater.

Materials:

Electric heating element for water heater.
magnesium anode.
Water heater container.
Clamping flanges.
Gaskets for fastening the heating element.
Flexible hoses for water supply.
Accessories for connecting water supply hoses (compression sleeves with a sleeve, union nuts and fittings, seals).

Instruments:

Wrenches for installing flanges.
Tools necessary for making holes in the water heater tank (they depend on the material of the selected tank: for plastic - knives and ordinary scissors, for thin "stainless steel" - metal scissors, for sheet steel - cutters, milling cutters, etc.).

Operating procedure

Scheme of a homemade boiler from cast iron batteries.

Assembling a homemade heater is not at all difficult. A container for a homemade water heater can be purchased at the store. For this purpose, a plastic or stainless steel washstand will serve well. And you can weld a box of the size you need from steel sheets, if skills and means allow you. The main thing is that the water heater must be sealed, sealed on all sides. Therefore, if a cover is provided in it, then after assembly it must be welded or equipped with a reliable locking device, otherwise water vapor will not create a sauna effect in the room.

In the future tank, it is necessary to make holes for installing a heating element and connecting hoses for supplying and discharging water. It is more reasonable to supply water through the lid (top) of the tank, it is best to place the water outlet hose in the side wall near the bottom. The heating element must also be placed from below, mounted in the side wall or bottom of the container.

If you are going to install a homemade water heater in a room that is not heated in winter (in the country, for example), then do not opt for a plastic tank. If the water drain system is located at a certain, even minimal, distance from the bottom of the tank, then some amount of water will still remain in it. In winter, these residues will freeze and the plastic container will simply crack.

The hole for the heating element is made according to the diameter of the heater itself, for hoses - according to the diameter of the fittings.

Install the heater itself, the clamping flanges, not forgetting the gasket, tightly tightening the retaining nuts. The water supply is installed using flexible hoses. After assembly, the water heater tank is checked for leaks: water must not leak in any connection.

Installation of an automatic water heater

Materials:

storage tank.
A large tank for cold water (at least 50 liters in capacity, it can be any container, such as a barrel).
Toilet valve with float.
Materials required for the installation of a water supply system (flexible hoses, fittings for connecting water supply hoses (compression sleeves with a sleeve, union nuts and fittings, seals), mixer).
Materials necessary for the installation of electrical wiring (wires, terminals, indicator lights, RCD circuit breaker).
Plywood (or other material) to create a heat-insulating box.
Material (for example, foam) to create a heat-insulating box.
Fasteners for tanks. Their appearance depends on where and how you plan to place a homemade heater. Usually, if the design provides for a suspension system, steel corners are used.

Instruments:

to create a heat-insulating box: a jigsaw, a carpenter's knife, a hammer;
for wiring: screwdrivers, pliers, screwdriver-tester or probe;
for plumbing installation: adjustable wrenches, pliers, clerical knife;
for installing fasteners: puncher or drill, hammer, pliers.

Operating procedure

In order to mount a toilet valve with a float (which will regulate the automatic water supply) to the water heater, you will need to make another hole in the tank. It should be located at the top of the structure, under the very lid of the container.

It is possible that the valve design you already have will need to be slightly redesigned, as it may not fit the dimensions of the tank. So, most often the float bar has to be shortened, and if stiffeners are provided in the tank, then the float mounts need to be slightly bent to the shape that the water heater has.

This design does not provide for the presence of pumps and water supply under artificially created pressure, the design must be arranged in steps. Above all, it is necessary to place a tank with cold water (fixing it on a wall or lifting it to a dais). Next, the water heater tank is suspended, approximately 0.7-1.2 m below the level of the large tank. And at the lowest level, a mixer and a sink are mounted.

In order for the water in the tank not to cool too quickly, it is necessary to make a heat-insulating box by sawing the walls out of plywood with the expectation that heat-insulating material, for example, polystyrene, “stands” between them and the container. The box is assembled with the expectation that all electrical wiring is outside, for safety reasons.

Boiler type heater

Materials:

Capacity for the body of the boiler (gas cylinder).
Nut (32 mm).
2 pieces of metal pipe, ½ inch (about 15 cm) in diameter.
Electric heater and thermostat.
Tow or special grease for insulating the heating element.
Boiler wall mounts.
Heat-insulating substrate for laminate flooring.
Plastic pipes for water supply.
Wires and terminals for electrical wiring.

Instruments:

Welding machine.
Lerka for cutting threads.
Drill and drill bits for metal.
Screwdrivers.
gas keys.
Screwdriver tester.

As a container for a boiler tank, a large gas cylinder with a 50-liter valve removed can be an ideal option. It is not recommended to use used cylinders, otherwise the water that has passed through such a self-constructed boiler will have a persistent smell of gas.

You can get rid of it by cutting the container in half, thoroughly washing and sanding the surface, and then applying a layer of nitro primer to it and welding the structure again. But it is much easier to go to a gas cylinder filling and distribution service and purchase a new, unused container there. In the same place, by the way, you can buy a cylinder without a tap, and there will be no need to remove it yourself.

Boiler assembly procedure

An electric heating element is installed at the place where the crane is attached. To do this, a nut with a diameter of 32 mm is welded onto the hole. So that in the process of further assembly the water heating element does not “lead” and it exactly falls into place, provided for by the design, before welding the nut, screw the threaded thread into it.

Metal pipes are sawn off so that one of them does not reach the top of the cylinder by 2 cm. The hot water supply pipe should not rest against the boiler cover, but you should not make it too short, otherwise cold water will mix with heated water. The second should be long, about 15 cm. It is intended for cold water. A plug is mounted on one side of it (the pipe is sealed), on the other, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the bottom of the boiler, a divider is formed: two slots are made or holes are drilled. It is not worth cutting a pipe at the very bottom: in this case, it is likely that the sediment from the bottom of the cylinder will mix with clean water.

At one end of the metal pipe scraps, a short thread is cut with a lerk.

Holes are cut under the water supply pipes to the water heater by gas welding, after which the entire structure is welded.

Ready-made fasteners-corners for the boiler are welded. You can also make them yourself by cutting from sheet steel.

The heater is screwed into the previously welded nut, insulated with tow, special grease or plumbing tape, a thermostat and signal LEDs are installed.

Installation of the water supply must be carried out only with the help of plastic pipes. A non-return valve must be installed at the cold water inlet to the water heater. Otherwise, the heating element may burn out when there is no water in the system.

You can even make a welding machine or a sawmill on your own, but when you need to make a device that will be used in everyday life with your own hands, ensuring the safe operation of the product comes to the fore.

Homemade water heater

A homemade water heater will be used by all family members who can only have a distant idea of \u200b\u200belectrical resistance, voltage and current strength. To minimize the likelihood of an accident, you will need to manufacture the device in accordance with all the rules of electrical safety.

Do-it-yourself water heater: choose the type of device

Despite the fact that it is much easier to make a storage device at home, you should first consider the assembly option. Such household appliances will allow you to instantly heat water, and electricity will be consumed only when the device is turned on. Unlike boilers, the installation of a flow device does not require a lot of space, and it is also not necessary to make thermal insulation of the device.

In both cases, a heating element is used to heat water, but for the manufacture of a flow device, you will need to purchase a more powerful element.

Powerful water heater

Of the additional details, you can not do without the use of RCDs. This device will automatically disconnect the contacts if an electrical leakage occurs. You should also stock up on large-section copper wires and tools for work.

Do-it-yourself instantaneous water heater

To make a instantaneous water heater, you should prepare the necessary tools:

Welding machine (inverter).
Electrodes.
Bulgarian with a nozzle for removing rust.
A hammer.
Drill with a set of drills for metal.
Kern.

For the flow-through version of the water heater, you will need the following materials:

Steel pipe, the length and diameter of which slightly exceed the width and length of the heating element.
TEN electric water power of 4 kW.
Sheet steel 3 mm thick.
Anticorrosive paint.
Bolt and nut M14.

When everything you need is prepared, you can begin to manufacture the device. The first thing to do is to qualitatively clean the metal surfaces from rust. To do this, you need to use a grinder with a nozzle.

Grinder with a nozzle for removing rust

Then a rectangle is cut from the metal sheet, the minimum side of which should slightly exceed the outer diameter of the metal pipe. On a cut metal sheet, 2 holes are made with a drill, the diameter of which should be 1 mm greater than the thickness of the heater leg. To arrange the holes at the required distance from each other, the ends of the contact rods should be lowered into white paint and then the ends of the contacts should be leaned against the plate, trying to make the marks equidistant from the side faces of the plate. When the paint dries a little, the white dots need to be drilled into the metal.

At the next stage, the plate prepared in this way should be welded to the end of the pipe. Before carrying out this operation, the part must be lightly grabbed so that the holes made earlier are exactly in the middle. After the side plug is welded, the metal protruding beyond the outer diameter of the pipe is cut off with a grinder or a gas cutter.

Further, having marked with a core at a distance of 20 mm 2 points, which must be on the same line, holes with a diameter of 19 mm are made with a drill. These holes are necessary for welding threaded pipe sections to connect the water supply and remove the heated liquid.

Given the need for grounding, it is imperative to weld an elongated M14 nut to the pipe, to which the conductor will be connected with a bolt.

In the next step, the electric heating element should be placed inside the pipe. The legs of the device should be carefully installed in the previously made holes, and then tighten the fixing nuts with sufficient force. When installing the heating element, be sure to put rubber washers on the threaded part of the legs.

Sealing washers for heating element

Washers should be installed on the inside and outside of the device, and for greater reliability, high-temperature sealant should be applied to the surface of the gaskets.

Then the opposite end of the metal pipe should be hermetically welded. For this purpose, a square piece of sheet steel should also be cut off. The side of the square must be at least 50 mm larger than the outside diameter of the pipe. For a reliable connection of the device with the plate, it must be laid on a flat surface, then install the device turned upside down by the heating elements exactly in the middle of the square so that the nozzles of the device are located strictly perpendicular to any of the faces of the lower square and carefully weld the metal, trying not to overheat the homemade water heater too much.

When the device has completely cooled down, it is also installed upside down on a wooden board and 4 holes are made at the corners of the bottom plate with a 10 mm drill. Holes are needed to mount the homemade device to the wall.

Before installing the instantaneous water heater, its performance must be checked. For this purpose, connect an electrical cable to the threaded contact of the heating element, pour enough water into the device to fill the entire space, and plug the device into the network.

TENA connection diagram

As soon as the water in the device boils, it should be de-energized. If there are no leaks, then a homemade heater should be painted in any color with high-temperature paint for metal. Before carrying out this operation, pour water out of it, degrease the surface with a solvent, and paint the device using an airbrush.

Paint for radiators

When the paint dries, you can proceed with the installation of the device in the plumbing system. To do this, install the device at an equal distance from the liquid sampling points, and place the device with the nozzles up and attach it to the wall. For this purpose, 4 holes must first be made in a vertical surface. With the help of anchor bolts, a home-made electric water heater is attached to the wall from the side of the plate, in which special holes were made for this.

After the device is securely fixed, a flexible hose with cold water is supplied from the water supply network to one of the pipes, and the other is connected to the hot water circuit.

Flexible hose for hot water

Then water is supplied to the device and the water heater is tested for leakage by water pressure. If no leaks are found, then electricity should be connected to the homemade device.

Given the high power of the device, it is not recommended to use a standard plug to turn on the device. For the water heater, a separate electrical circuit should be allocated from the incoming electrical panel. You should also install an additional 20 A automatic fuse, which should be located in an accessible place, to turn on the device when necessary.

When operating a heater of this design, each time it will be very inconvenient to turn on the device using a knife switch. For more comfortable use of the device, it is recommended to install a pressure switch in the water circuit after the heating device. And put a check valve in front of the water heater so that in the absence of water in the water supply system, the heating element does not automatically turn on. When using such a scheme, water heating will be carried out only at the moment when the tap is open.

To automatically turn on the device, you can set thermostat directly into the water heater, but the installation of such a system must be carried out at the stage of manufacture of the device. The disadvantage of a water heating system with a built-in thermostat is that the device will operate in heater mode, giving off part of the heat to the surrounding air. You can reduce losses if you cover the device with a heat insulator that is resistant to high temperatures. Despite the more complex design of such a system, the main difference from a device with an installed pressure sensor will be the instantaneous supply of hot water when the tap is opened. Significant disadvantages include more significant electricity consumption due to more frequent switching on of the heating element.

Thermostat for heating element

Regardless of the type of system used, turning on the device, it is necessary to install a safety valve in the immediate vicinity of the heating device. During operation of the water heater, sticking of the contacts of the relay or thermostat may occur. In this case, the heating element will be constantly on, which will lead to boiling water and high pressure in the system, which can lead to depressurization of the most vulnerable sections of the water supply. The safety valve will reduce the pressure. When the critical value of this indicator is reached, the locking mechanism will open and part of the liquid will be removed into the sewer system.

collected self-electric circuit must also have safety devices and mechanisms. Most often, to prevent electric shock, RCDs are installed that instantly turn off the electricity supply when an electric current leaks to the case. RCD is recommended, as well as the machine, to be installed only in the electrical circuit of the water heater.

This device will reliably protect people from the effects of electric current even in the absence of a connected ground conductor, but in order to increase efficiency, it is recommended to connect the device to the "ground". To do this, it is enough to connect the conductor from the home grounding system to the body of the water heater. The wire is mounted using a threaded connection to a nut that was previously welded to a metal pipe.

If a home-made instantaneous electric water heater was made according to the above instructions, then the result will be a reliable device that will allow you to fully provide yourself with hot water.

How to make your own water heater thermostat

If the budget is very limited in the manufacture of a water heater, then you can make a thermostat for a water heater with your own hands. The thermostat is installed as follows:

Remove from a faulty car of any brand a thermal switch that controls the inclusion of forced engine cooling.
Set the thread type of this part.
Choose a metal tube that is suitable in diameter and use a tap to cut the internal thread.
Make a hole in the instantaneous water heater and weld a threaded tube.
Screw in the thermal switch, having previously applied high-temperature sealant to the threads.

For the correct functioning of the heating element switching system, it is impossible to do without the use of an additional 12 V source and an intermediate relay. The relay installed in the system must be of reverse action, that is, open the circuit when low voltage is applied to the coil. This feature is due to the fact that in a car, the radiator blower is turned on when a certain temperature value is exceeded, while the flow radiator must be turned off at the moment when the temperature value exceeds a critical value.

What can be done from the old heater "Ariston"

The “happy” owners of Ariston water heaters, after repeatedly replacing the heating element, decide to purchase and install a device of another brand. From the same device, an excellent version of a country shower is obtained, the water for which is heated by solar energy. To convert the device into a hot water tank, you must:

Cut the outer case of the device with a grinder and remove it.
Clear the inner tank from thermal insulation.
Degrease the surface.
Paint the tank matt black with any paint for metal.
Install and connect the tank to the summer shower system.

The installation of the tank must be carried out at a height of at least 2.5 meters in an area open to sunlight. The most correct would be to install a water heater directly on the roof of a summer shower. The container should be installed in a vertical position, and the water connection must be made to the drain pipe of the device, because, unlike the electric model, in the summer shower the water will be drained by gravity.

This version of the country shower is the simplest, if desired, you can make a more complex design of the device that heats the liquid using solar energy.

Country water heater

In the country, you can make homemade solar water heaters. The disadvantage of such devices is only the lack of heating during cloudy weather. The solar water heater is made of the following materials and parts:

Old refrigerator.
Water tank.
Metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm.
Edged board 200 mm wide.
Sheet of cellular polycarbonate.
Steel sheet 3 mm thick.
Black paint for metal.

You will also need to purchase consumables for fastening materials and various adapters for connecting pipes. In addition, you will need to buy a low-power circulation pump.

The manufacture of a water heater powered by solar energy can be done in the following sequence:

The rear radiator is removed from the refrigerator, and the copper tube is cut off at the place where the device connects to the compressor and freezer. When performing this operation, it is necessary to keep the original fastening elements of the part.
A rectangle is cut out of a metal sheet by a grinder, the length and width of which should be 20 cm more than the parameters of the refrigerator radiator.
One of the sides of the metal rectangle is cleaned, degreased and painted black. It is also necessary to paint the refrigerator radiator.
When the paint is dry, a copper grate should be placed on the painted surface of the metal sheet so that it is equidistant from its corners.
On the painted surface of the metal sheet, with any sharp object, notches are made under the mounting holes of the copper radiator.
Then, at the marked points, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which must correspond to the holes for mounting the radiator.
Along the perimeter of the metal sheet, it is also necessary to make holes with a diameter of 5 mm for attaching the side faces of the device. The distance between the holes should be about 100 mm.
Adapters for connecting metal-plastic pipes are soldered to the cut ends of copper tubes with a gas soldering iron.
From a board of 200 mm, it is necessary to cut off segments with a hacksaw. 2 segments should be equal to the width of the metal sheet, and the other two should be 50 mm less than its length. After that, the wood must be treated with a protective compound.
Segments of the board are installed on the edge along the perimeter of the metal sheet and screwed with wood screws through previously made holes.
A copper radiator is installed inside the “box”, which is bolted to the metal plate. Branch pipes with adapters for connecting a metal-plastic pipe should be brought out through the holes made with a pen drill in one of the side boards.
From a sheet of transparent cellular polycarbonate, cut a rectangle that will be equal to the size of the metal base.
Screw the polycarbonate rectangle to the ends of the boards with self-tapping screws with rubber washers.
It is necessary to install a freezer removed from the refrigerator in the water tank, to the copper tubes of which adapters should also be soldered. The freezer should be fixed at the bottom of the tank, and the pipes should be brought out to one of the side walls.

A do-it-yourself country water heater is installed as follows:

After connecting the pump to electricity, the oil will be heated by solar radiation, which will easily pass through the polycarbonate plate. Also, a greenhouse effect is formed in the device, which will allow you to effectively use the device even during partly cloudy weather.

The heated oil will transfer heat to the water in the tank with the freezer installed, so it should be insulated with polyurethane foam. Hot water intake can be forced using a pump or gravity, but this will require you to install the tank as high as possible. In order for the heated oil to not cool down on the way to the heat exchanger, the metal-plastic pipes should be covered along the entire length with mounting foam.

Making a homemade water heater will not only save money, but also gain invaluable experience in designing complex devices with your own hands. If you yourself need to make an electrode device, then you should definitely remember the safety precautions when handling devices powered by electricity.

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