8430 0 0

How to fix drywall on walls without a frame - 3 real ways

Aligning walls with plasterboard is one of the fastest and most affordable ways to equip a room. At the moment, there are 2 main mounting technologies, these are frame and frameless. Of course, it is easier to mount on the frame, but it takes up a lot of usable area. Therefore, in small city apartments, installing drywall on a wall without a frame is more relevant. In this article, I will talk about three ways of cladding walls with drywall without a frame and all the intricacies of this process that I know.

A few words about the material

During the existence and active use of drywall, several types of such sheets have been developed, each of which is designed for certain operating conditions:

• In residential, dry rooms, the most common are standard GKL sheets. Such sheets are not impregnated with anything, hence the price for them is perhaps the most affordable. Often they are produced in gray and have a blue marking;
• GKLV sheets are produced for cladding in services and other rooms with high humidity.. This is a moisture resistant material. Such sheets have a greenish color and blue markings;
• Fire-resistant drywall is abbreviated as GKLO. In some sources, it is recommended for facing kitchens, but from my own experience I can say that it makes no sense to use it in city apartments at all. This material is good for facing fireplaces and other similar structures. These sheets have a gray “shirt” and red markings;
• There is also a universal drywall GKLVO, it is moisture and fire resistant. You can mount it virtually anywhere, but as you yourself understand, the price of these sheets is an order of magnitude higher. Theoretically, it is well suited for the kitchen, but in practice, it makes no sense to pay for universal sheets if you can get by with simple moisture-resistant ones.

There are also GLV gypsum fiber sheets, but in our case they are not suitable for leveling walls without a frame.

Frameless mounting methods

The use of one or another of the methods described below depends on how smooth your walls are. Conventionally, they can be divided into 3 categories:

• The first method is used for walls with smooth curvatures up to 5 mm;
• The second is designed for surfaces with curvature up to 20 mm;
• And the third is used on very curved surfaces with drops of up to 40 mm.

Important: it is believed that cladding walls with drywall without a frame makes sense only if the differences in the plane do not exceed 40, maximum 50 mm. In all other cases, the installation of a frame is required.

Surface preparation

Any construction work begins with the preparation of the base, but for the installation of drywall on walls without a frame, the base must be prepared very carefully. Otherwise, you run the risk that over time, mold and fungus will grow in the gaps between the wall and the sheets, and there it’s not far from asthma with allergies.

• If the wall is plastered, then first you need to carefully “tap” it in order to detect voids and delaminations. When they are found, the plaster layer in these places should be completely knocked down, to a solid foundation;
• There are times when you have to level an old wall, which already has several layers of plaster applied at different times. Here, regardless of whether you found voids or not, it is advisable to completely remove all plaster layers. In this case, it is too likely that one of the old layers will fall behind over time and your new, beautiful cladding may simply collapse;
• When you remove plaster or just clean up problem areas, old cracks and shells can open on the walls. So all of them will need to be expanded and cleaned well, since there are almost certainly mold spores at the bottom of these cracks. I usually use a grinder for this, but if it wasn’t at hand, then it’s quite possible to get by with a chisel and a hammer;

• If there are oil stains on the wall, then you can try to remove them with ammonia or some similar reagent. Although personally I prefer not to mess with chemistry. It is much faster and more reliable to knock down the old plaster along with the oil stain and forget about the problem;
• Too large growths and bumps will also need to be knocked down. Simply put, your task is to make the wall relatively flat;
• This is where the first and by the way the dirtiest stage of preparation ends, then we move on to the elimination of visible defects. But first you will need to brush off the dust and go through the ground a couple of times;

Fine building dust should be removed with a brush or a damp cloth. Do not try to use a household vacuum cleaner for these purposes. At one time, I stepped on this rake, as a result, the vacuum cleaner burned out, and they asked for so much for its repair that it was easier to buy a new one.

• If the wall cladding with drywall is carried out in a potentially dry room, then Betonkontakt can be taken as the soil. For damp rooms it is better to use "Tifengrund" This composition significantly reduces the level of moisture absorption by the base. Naturally, in addition to these primers, there are many others, but I recommend those compositions that have already been tested;
• At the last stage of preparation, you will need to putty all deep sinks and previously cleaned cracks, and when the putty dries, walk over it with soil again;
• There are more than enough different specialized putties on the market now, but in the old fashioned way I prefer to use ordinary gypsum for this purpose. Firstly, gypsum, or as it is also called alabaster, hardens within 15 - 20 minutes, and secondly, its strength is sufficient for such work. Plus, the price of alabaster is quite acceptable.

Method number 1: we fight with small curvatures

Wall cladding with plasterboard has its own characteristics. So, whatever leveling method you choose, the sheets should not fit snugly against the floor and ceiling. In these places, a damper gap of about 5 - 10 mm is left.

It is necessary so that during temperature deformations or shrinkage of the building the sheets do not warp. And also for air access, because without it the construction adhesive will harden for a very long time. At the end of the work, the gap from below will be covered with a plinth, and the upper gap will need to be puttied with elastic silicone.

As a rule, this method is used in cases where the wall is covered with many cracks, and the home master simply cannot or does not want to plaster the entire plane with his own hands.

True, I also came across such owners who, by all means, want to make perfectly even walls. And the assurances that it is impossible to visually notice a smooth drop of 5 mm on the wall do not convince them. Roughly speaking, people just have such a “fad”, they cannot feel comfortable if they know that somewhere there is a small bias.

First you will need to use a level and a plumb line to measure how even your corners are. The fact is that the installation should start from the most even corner, otherwise it will be very difficult to correct the skew later.

Ideally, it is better to use a laser level for these purposes, but it costs serious money and, in the absence of such, you can get by with an ordinary building level with a length of about 2m. In extreme cases, a simple plumb line will do, but here you have to rely on the accuracy of your eye.

Often, for such work, sheets with a height of about 3 m are used. Taking into account the fact that the ceiling height in most of our city apartments fluctuates around 2.5 m, with one sheet you completely cover the entire wall.

For such work, I use the Fügenfüller construction glue-putty, I see no point in writing about the technology of its breeding, because all such compositions must have detailed instructions.

When you bring the glue into working condition, it is most convenient to apply it to the sheet with a notched trowel with a tooth depth of 5 - 10 mm. It makes sense to apply glue with a solid ball to the entire sheet only if tiling is planned as a finishing cladding.

In dry rooms designed for painting or wallpapering, such an unheard-of waste of expensive glue is absolutely not justified. In this case, it will be enough to apply a strip 15–20 cm wide around the perimeter and at several points in the center of the sheet.

Naturally, before applying the adhesive, the sheet will need to be cut to size, taking into account the upper and lower damper gaps. To ensure the bottom gap, I simply put the sheet on the lining. As a rule, these are pieces of broken tiles or the same drywall trimmings.

When you attach the glued sheet to the wall, it will need to be accurately aligned vertically. To be honest, this is the most responsible and difficult stage. Most masters recommend tapping the sheet with a rubber mallet, or if health allows you to gently press down or hit it with your fist, constantly checking the vertical with a level.

I do it a little differently. Drywall is a rather fragile thing and, without experience, it can be easily damaged by point impacts. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, I first apply a long and wide metal rule to the convex place and hit it already. Thus, the pressure is evenly distributed over the plane, and the sheet gently takes its place.

Method number 2: use beacons

Installing drywall on lighthouses is actually one of the varieties of frame mounting. Only a regular frame is assembled from UD and CD profiles. And here, instead of profiles, beacons are attached to the wall. This method is used for height differences of 5 mm or more.

Pre-cut squares from the same drywall are used as beacons. The length of the side of such a square usually fluctuates around 20 cm. Instead of squares, you can mount strips on the wall, but you have to mess with them more.

To ensure the uniformity of the support, the beacons are installed strictly in squares, as shown in the diagram. The distance between the beacons is maintained in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The squares themselves are glued to the base with the same glue for drywall.

Naturally, since our wall is curved, each lighthouse will have a different height. At the most convex points, one plate is placed. Further, depending on the size of the depressions, the number of plates increases.

This method is great for beginners. If you have a maximum of 15-20 minutes during a continuous landing on the glue to expose the sheet, because the glue will begin to harden further, then the beacons can be slowly put up, not in a hurry. And when everything is displayed perfectly, just prime and smear the pads with a thin layer of glue, and then gently attach a sheet to them.

Method number 3: mounting on self-tapping screws

Fastening drywall to the wall with self-tapping screws without a frame is a fairly common practice. It, like the previous technology, is used for large elevation differences along the plane.

First, you, as usual, measure and cut the sheet. Then you put supports on the floor, put a sheet on them and try it on the wall, exactly the way it will stand in the future. Now you will need to take a drill and drill about a dozen and a half holes for self-tapping screws, evenly distributing them over the entire plane. You need to drill through so that marks remain on the wall.

Drywall should be drilled with a thin drill. Later, when you screw screws into these holes, they should not hang out.

After that, remove the sheet to the side and, according to the markings left from the thin drill, drill a series of holes in the wall for the “quick installation” plastic dowels with a perforator and a drill with a victorious solder and immediately insert these same dowels into them.

Now with frequent "blots" you throw thick construction glue on the wall. The thickness of the cakes should be about 10 - 15 mm more than the planned border of the sheet. In the next step, you attach the sheet to the wall and screw the screws into the holes.

As you tighten the screws, the sheet will gradually press against the wall and sit on the glue. In this case, the plane and vertical are regulated by self-tapping screws and the main thing here is not to overtighten.

In order not to accidentally tighten the self-tapping screw to the stop and thereby not bend the plane, you do not need to use a screwdriver. In this situation, it is better to take an ordinary screwdriver and slowly, constantly checking the plane for level, tighten the screws with your own hands.

What You Definitely Don't Need to Do

Recently, while browsing the web for information, I came across another “interesting” way to install drywall on self-tapping screws without a frame. Some unfortunate master painted a supposedly working technology.

It all sounded something like this: at first, as in the method described above, a sheet of drywall was tried on against the wall. A series of holes were drilled in it, and then in the wall itself, into which “quick installation” plastic dowels were inserted.

After that, several foam rollers were glued on the inside of the sheet. According to the plan, they should play the role of shock absorbers when the sheet is leveled. Further, without any glue, the sheet was exposed vertically with the help of self-tapping screws.

At the last stage, the most interesting thing happens: the author recommends drilling another hole with a diameter of about 10 - 15 mm next to the screws. And in these holes, in fact, blindly, inject mounting foam. It is assumed that the foam should fill the voids and at the same time, tightly glue the drywall to the wall.

I had a case when, during the insulation of a wooden door shell, I filled in a little more mounting foam than necessary. So, during the expansion, the foam moved a powerful wooden beam.

In our situation, I can say with full responsibility that if you pour mounting foam between the drywall and the wall, it will simply warp. As a result of pressure, the sheet will at least go in waves.

And if you make a mistake with the dosage and fill in too much mounting foam, the sheet may generally break or be torn off the self-tapping screws, because they stand firmly. So keep in mind, mounting foam is a good thing, but you don’t need to fill it anywhere.

Output

As you can see, installing drywall on walls without a frame is a doable task, even for an amateur. Of course, you need to act carefully. If you do not have any experience at all, then I would recommend that you pay attention to the installation of beacons.

In the photo and video in this article, I have placed useful information on this topic. If you have any questions, write in the comments, we'll talk.

Alignment of walls with drywall frameless method. Applying different technologies to different rough surfaces. The use of supports and struts. Fixing on self-tapping screws, polyurethane foam, installation of beacons.

Drywall without a frame on the wall

Leveling the surface with drywall is the most popular type of repair work, characterized by speed and quality. There are 2 methods of fixing GKL: frame and frameless.

Drywall without a frame on the wall is a quick budget option that has its advantages. Methods for gluing GKL to the surface, as well as fixing sheets with self-tapping screws, are discussed below.

When is it possible to level the walls with drywall without a frame

To level the surface of the GKL, the following methods are applicable:

• Frame - the use of profiles and components to create a crate for GK-sheets.
• Frameless - gluing or directly fixing the sheet to the rough surface.

Fixing the material without a profile is performed in such cases:

1. If the walls are curved no more than 5 cm.
2. Hiding wires and communications is not required.
3. In a small room (toilet, bathroom), where it is not possible to allocate centimeters for the construction of the crate.

The crate takes at least 12 cm of free space in the room.

The frameless method has its drawbacks:

• There is no way to hide communications.
• There is no way to insulate the rough surface.
• In some cases, additional fixation with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails is needed.
• The plasterboard sheet becomes heavier with the applied glue, it is difficult for one person to lift it. You need to call a neighbor for help.

With relatively flat walls, it is advisable to mount the gypsum board using the frameless method.

Existing installation techniques

To fix the GKL without crates, you can apply the following methods:

1. Gluing the material to the rough base on mastic or glue. To do this, a solution is applied at the place of curvature, and it is also applied in a checkerboard pattern on the sheet. GKL is applied to the wall, leveled and pressed, additionally installing a holder. From the floor to the GKL should remain 10-12 mm. To do this, you can put a small piece of sheathing material.
2. The use of self-tapping screws, foam rubber. This method is used for large curvature. Fixing is done like this:

• make markup for the material;
• 9-12 holes are drilled on the GKL. Their location is transferred to the draft base;
• pieces of foam rubber are glued near these holes on the back side;
• a sleeve from a dowel-nail (plastic part) is inserted into the base according to the marks;
• the sheet is screwed with screws to the wall.

1. Combined method. Lighthouses are installed from below and from above. The middle is filled with glue.

All methods of fixing a sheet on a rough base are applicable for various surface irregularities.

Benefits of frameless cladding

The frameless method has features and solves the following problems:

1. leveling surfaces without occupying centimeters of the room;
2. drywall constructions improve sound insulation;
3. there is a slight warming of the room;
4. relatively fast installation;
5. budget option - no need to buy profiles and accessories.

Fixing the GKL to the rough surface will be strong only after the correct selection of the adhesive composition.

How to sheathe a wall with drywall without a frame and a profile with your own hands

Facing the base without a profile is only permissible with unevenness of no more than 2 cm. To apply this method, materials, tools are needed:

• a set of spatulas with various blades;
• level, rule;
• container for adhesive solution;
• adhesive mixture;
• primer, roller, brush;
• reinforcing tape;
• putty for plasterboard joints.

After collecting all the materials, tools, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

To do this, the walls must be cleaned of the previous coating - paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster. The entire surface is cleaned of dust and primed.

A plumb line is suspended from the ceiling to determine the total curvature vertically.

Next, is the preparation of drywall. If the installation is carried out alone, then the drywall sheet must be cut for convenience. Holes for sockets and switches are cut out in the prepared material. On the cut end parts of the material, a chamfer is made with a planer or milling cutter.

On which walls can GVL be installed without a profile

Installation of GKL without a profile is possible on glue, if the differences are 2 cm no more. Glue is best applied with "blobs". They are distributed evenly over the sheet, after that, the material with the adhesive composition is leaned against the rough base. It is necessary to align the sheet - it must stand strictly vertically.

After that, lightly tapping on the GKL, the irregularities of the rough base are filled with glue, the excess goes beyond the boundaries. They are removed with a spatula. The sheet must be fixed with a holder for setting the glue. Only after the composition has solidified, proceed to the installation of the next sheet.

When you need partial wall decoration with wooden slats

If the base has an unevenness of more than 2 cm, then a different method is used from the adhesive one. A lattice of wooden slats is mounted on the rough surface. If there are none, then the GKL sheet is cut into strips 10 cm wide. The strips are glued to the wall using an adhesive. You have to wait for it to dry completely. At the joints of the GKL there should be strips 16 cm wide - 8 for each sheet. All glued beacons must be strictly vertical. Aligned to level.

The evenness of the glued beacons must also be checked by the diagonal rule.

1. Glue is applied to the GCR sheet with a continuous strip. It should be in the place where the beacons will pass.
2. Drywall is cursed with beacons glued to the base.

With the help of wooden slats-beacons, the draft wall is leveled and the GKL is sewn up.

How to mount directly on self-tapping screws: how to screw sheets

There is another option to fasten the finishing material to the rough surface without a frame. This is wall cladding with self-tapping screws. However, this method is applicable when the surface is flat and there are no drops.

There are nuances here:

• before fixing the GKL with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to check how easily the fasteners enter the rough base;
• drywall is attached to the wall to improve sound and heat insulation;
• It is not necessary to clean the surface before fixing.

It is not difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into a brickwork. Here drywall serves as dry plaster for the base.

It is difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete slabs, so dowel nails are used. They do it like this:

1. GKL is applied to concrete.
2. Make holes in the material so that this hole is in the base.
3. GKL removed.
4. The plastic part of the dowel-nail is driven into the concrete.
5. Again, the sheet is substituted and the self-tapping screw is screwed in, which falls into the plastic sleeve.

GKL fixed on the wall. For strength, additional holes are created in the sheet and mounting foam is let in through them, which serves as glue.

After fixing the drywall to the surface, reinforcing the joints and puttying is done.

Do I need to install an additional wall mount

After fixing the first GK-sheet to the rough surface, the adhesive should set. To do this, you need to fix the sheet additionally. In order not to keep the sheet near the wall for an hour or more, apply additional fastening:

1. A homemade device made of wood that looks like a mop. To do this, the vertical stick must be at least 1.5 m, the horizontal one is equal to the width of the sheet. The horizontal rail must be smooth so as not to damage the material. It is attached to the fixed material. Moreover, the vertical rail is fixed on the floor (so that there is an emphasis).
2. A home-made device from profiles - the same mop only from profiles for lathing under the GKL.
3. Purchase support. It is assembled from several parts, which are made of metal pipes. The same device serves as a sheet lifter to the ceiling.

If you do not use a support for the material during the curing of the adhesive composition, then the GKL may not stick or it may not be fixed properly and fall off over time.

Brick wall sheathing: features

Brickwork has a number of features that must be taken into account when fixing the GKL.

1. When fastening the sheet with self-tapping screws without glue, they, getting into the solution, will not hold for a long time. The building has its own movements, fasteners will be unreliable.
2. Gypsum adhesive when applied to cement mortar will not have good adhesion due to the difference in composition. Eventually the glue will peel off.
3. A brick wall can collect condensation on itself if it is thin and exposed to outdoor temperature changes. Moisture adversely affects the GCR. In this case, it is necessary to use mounting foam and self-tapping screws.

There are two ways to solve the problem of installing gypsum on a brick:

1. In the first case, the mounting foam is poured into a small space between the plasterboard and the base.
2. In the second, the foam is applied to the surface of the sheet, and then it is fixed to the surface. This case is more acceptable, since it is possible to control the amount of foam applied to the surface of the facing material.

The foam with the lowest expansion coefficient is used - for expanded polystyrene.

Installation of facing material with self-tapping screws and foam:

1. One sheet is drilled in 9-12 places.
2. These points are transferred to the surface.
3. Pieces of foam rubber are fixed near the drilled holes on the glue. It serves as shock absorbers during fastening.
4. Dowels are driven into the wall at the marked places.
5. The sheet is fixed with screws with wide caps, washers are placed under them. During installation, it is necessary to measure the evenness with a level and a rule.
6. Stepping back from the fastener 1-2 cm to the side, holes are drilled in the GKL for foam nozzles.
7. Foam is introduced into the hole in small doses. Do not forget - the foam expands.

After the foam has dried (about a day), the screws are removed along with the washers. Instead of them, ordinary self-tapping screws are screwed in, having “drowned” the hats a little.

Is it possible to mount directly to a concrete wall GVL without profiles

The concrete wall does not have large drops, so the GKL is fixed with glue.

Gypsum compositions are not applied to concrete due to the incompatibility of the incoming elements. It is better to use acrylic glue.

Before gluing the material, the surface is prepared. Namely:

• notches are made on concrete for greater adhesion;
• the entire wall is covered with a primer.

Thereafter:

1. The GKL sheet is laid on flat wooden slats in front of the fixation point.
2. Glue is applied to it with a notched trowel.
3. The sheet is lifted, a piece of drywall is placed under it so that there is a gap from the floor and leveled.
4. Press to the base and secure with a “mop” until the glue dries.
5. The second sheet is fixed after the first has dried.

If the wall has a curvature, beacons are used from wooden slats or cut strips of plasterboard.

Before installing drywall on the walls, you should read the tips and recommendations of the masters:

• fixing the finishing material begins after all the wiring is done, the floor is laid;
• for the installation of GKL in the room there must be moderate dampness, the temperature is not less than 10 0C;
• walls must be cleaned of finishes and coated with a primer;
• for wet rooms, moisture-resistant GKL is applicable;
• the sheet with glue is heavy, so you need to invite one person to help;
• the glue that has come out must be removed immediately.

Having performed the installation technique correctly, as well as applying the recommendations of the masters, the wall surface will be smooth and ready for further finishing. The drywall construction will last 10-15 years if there are no sudden changes in temperature and constantly high humidity in the room.

Useful video

For fastening drywall sheets, a frame method is often used using a metal profile or slats to create a crate. The material reinforced to the frame is able to hide all communications provided in the room. This method is not applicable in every case, since it is more expensive. The frameless mounting method does not involve the use of a profile, so it saves the living space of the room.

Methods for fixing GKL without a profile

In order not to carry out the tedious installation of profiles and not to spend extra money, you should use plates with a thickness of no more than 1.2 cm. The smallest value of this parameter removes excessive load from the wall after fixing drywall sheets on a vertical surface. This option is only suitable for walls whose height is less than 3 m.

For mounting drywall on a wall without profiles, you can use the adhesive method. There are 3 varieties of this mounting method. All work can be done using putty and glue, so drywall is strengthened on the basis of:

1. Plaster plastering.
2. Gluing with special glue.
3. Based on a combination of methods.

The first method is used if the surface of the walls has deviations of no more than 4 mm. They are leveled with drywall sheets fixed with putty. The composition of the mixture should include gypsum. The central part and edges along the perimeter of the GKL are processed with adhesive. The second method is suitable if the walls have irregularities with a deviation of 4-20 mm. For gluing drywall, you will need an adhesive that has a special purpose. It must be applied to the sheet material in separate lines with a step of 35 cm.

The combined option is based on the combination of each of the 2 ways of fastening drywall sheets without a profile. In this case, the wall surface may have a deviation of up to 40 mm. First, GKL strips with a width of 10 cm are glued to the aligned walls. Then, solid slabs are mounted on the mounted blanks.

Advantages of installing drywall without a profile

If the GKL is mounted on a profile, then this reduces the usable area of ​​​​the room to the greatest extent than gluing sheets of material. Using this method is suitable for leveling wall surfaces with any level of curvature. The pre-assembled frame must be set in a single plane. There are the following good reasons for installing drywall sheets without a profile:

1. Possibility of combining mounting methods.
2. Reducing the cost of installing drywall material.
3. Increase in living space.
4. Convenience and ease of fixing sheets.

The use of plasterboard sheets instead of plaster is considered more profitable, since the first option is less expensive. For example, to plaster 1 m2 of a wall, you will need to spend 400 rubles, and a sheet of non-moisture resistant plasterboard, having an area of ​​3 m2, costs 300 rubles. To install the GKL on the wall correctly, it is not necessary to have special skills and experience.

To install the GKL, it is enough to use tile adhesive, having prepared the composition according to the instructions. Wallpaper can be glued on top of the sheets with any special glue. The top layer of the drywall sheet consists of kraft paper, which has the property of excellent adhesion to all types of putties. GKL can be cut, bent, leveled by puttying. These material advantages are often used in the manufacture of arches.

Disadvantages of frameless fastening GKL

The drywall strength index is low, so the GKL partition will not even withstand the shelves attached to it. The arrangement of a double partition allows you to increase the strength of a drywall wall, but any frameless method of fixing gypsum plasterboard does not involve the installation of sheets of material in 2 layers. For this purpose, the frame of the guide and carrier profiles is always mounted first.

Before choosing a method for installing a GKL without a profile, it is necessary to evaluate the curvature of the walls. If the level of this indicator is not too significant, then it is not required to mount the profile to the wall. It will be enough to use special glue or self-tapping screws to level the surface with drywall without the formation of enlarged cavities under the sheets.

It is good to strengthen the GCR in a frameless way to walls with electrical wiring, but without communications such as pipes for heating, ventilation or plumbing systems. To hide them, you need a finished frame from the profile. A significant disadvantage of frameless sheet mounting technology is the need to prepare the surface before pasting the wall with drywall. In rooms with freezing walls, this type of material is not leveled, since the formation of condensate on the gypsum plasterboard is unacceptable.

Preparatory work before the installation of GKL

Before fixing drywall to the walls, everything that lags behind it must be removed from the surface. In the presence of large cracks, they are jointed. The wall should be cleaned with a spatula, with which you can beat off all the excess. The next step is to estimate the level of curvature of the surface. If you find large enough protrusions, you need to use tools such as a chisel and a hammer, which will allow you to remove bumps. For this purpose, a perforator is also suitable.

Before we level the walls in old houses, the question is often decided whether the old layer of plaster needs to be removed if the material has not yet fallen. To assess whether the plaster has moved away from the wall or not, the master can. Sometimes this is done before strengthening the GKL on its own. To identify the layers that have departed from the base, it is necessary to tap the wall. If there are places that differ in sound, we can conclude that the delamination of obsolete material.

In the process of preparing the wall, deep potholes may appear, which are repaired separately. Putties are distinguished by the restriction on the creation of a minimum and maximum layer. If the material is applied in a sufficiently large layer, then it may fall off. All pits and holes on the wall are sealed.

Strengthening drywall with glue

Less complicated is the method of attaching drywall to the adhesive composition. Since the sheets are initially flat, they are applied without preparing the base. To fix the material, a special adhesive suitable for brick or concrete substrates should be diluted in advance. The adhesive composition must be applied in small portions on a relatively leveled surface. Be sure to take into account the convexity or concavity of the wall in this place. Taking a drywall sheet, it should be leaned against the wall, and then leveled in a plane, drowning, if necessary, by pressing the material with your hand. Further work is carried out in the following order:

1. Check the plane of the surface with a level and level the wall.
2. Lubricate the evenly exposed sheet with putty.
3. Apply adhesive to the next sheet of material.
4. Assemble the wall completely, reinforcing each sheet with adhesive.
5. For greater reliability, fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws or dowel-screws to the base.

The method of leveling wall surfaces with drywall sheets without a profile cannot always be used accurately. All stages are carried out with a minimum emphasis on the GCR, which prevents the appearance of drops and gaps. Drywall allows you to quickly carry out work on leveling the walls in the room with your own hands.

Fixing drywall with mounting foam

Another option for fastening drywall sheets in a frameless way to the wall is the use of mounting foam. This material has its own distinctive features that are not typical for liquid nails or adhesives. The use of foam allows you to fill any recesses in the walls with high quality, so you won’t need to spend money on other materials in the process of preparing the surface for gluing GKL. It will be sufficient to perform the removal of protrusions whose height is more than 5 mm.

Since the foam is able to expand during the setting process, it is necessary to attach drywall sheets 30-60 minutes after gluing the GKL. Additionally, during the setting of the foam, you can fasten the material with dowel screws. Step-by-step installation of GKL is carried out as follows:

1. A sheet of drywall, placed against the wall, should be supported by sloping boards.
2. Marking is done on the plasterboard, followed by drilling of the drywall itself and walls.
3. Holes are made for dowel-screws, taking into account the equal distance between the fasteners.
4. Mounting foam should be applied on the back of the drywall sheet in a dotted manner every 20 cm or in stripes around the entire perimeter, as well as inside the sheet material.
5. GKL is pressed against the surface and fastened with dowel screws.

When performing frameless strengthening of the GKL, do not drown the caps of the fasteners when fixing the sheets below the level where the wall surface ends. After the mounting foam has set, the dowel-screws will need to be removed or screwed to the level of the base, hiding all the holes with putty.

The use of dowel screws will prevent the drywall from bending away from the wall, and the expansion of the foam will prevent the gypsum board from bending in the opposite direction. When installing drywall without profiles, you should always use a building level or a rule with a plumb line. This will provide control over the correct alignment of the wall with the help of GKL to perform a high-quality finish.

How to fix the curvature of the walls? The most common answer to this question is the use of drywall. Due to its advantages, it is one of the most optimal options for interior decoration.

As a rule, a special frame made of a metal profile is mounted for its fastening. But this may not always be appropriate. For example, for small rooms, where the area is already small, the use of a frame will make it even smaller.

There is a way out of this situation - wall cladding with drywall without a frame. How to do this correctly, we will consider a little later. And to begin with, let's talk directly about the finishing material itself.

Advantages of drywall

It is often used for finishing ceilings, walls, building partitions, as it has the following advantages:

• durability (not subject to decay and decomposition);
• beautiful appearance;
• environmental friendliness (does not contain substances harmful to human health);
• ease of installation (does not require any unusual skills, especially if we mount drywall without a frame);
• ability to accumulate heat;
• vapor permeability (the material "breathes", that is, it allows air vapor to pass through (if moisture resistance is required, then a special impregnation is applied to it);
• sound absorption - this is especially true for apartments (to enhance this property, when installing drywall without a frame, a special soundproofing film is attached on top);
• fire resistance (it does not burn);
• perfectly flat surface;
• provides a wide variety of possibilities for further processing (painting, wallpapering, tiling, etc.);
• flexibility (allows you to make curved shapes)
• light weight - creates a minimum load on the walls (and if we install drywall on walls without a frame, the load will be very minimal).

Fastening methods

Let's return to the question of how to sheathe walls with drywall without a frame. This method is less common than the second - sheathing with a frame. With a frameless approach, the sheets are fastened with a special glue.

Mounting with a frame is more difficult, it involves assembling a structure from metal profiles. In this case, the time, effort and finances are more than in the first case. But then there is the possibility of additional insulation of the walls.

In addition, the use of metal structures allows you to hide large irregularities. If we decide to sheathe the walls with drywall with our own hands without a frame, we will no longer be able to remove serious curvature.

The creation of shelves, niches and partitions is possible only with the first method of fastening. And this, in turn, opens up great scope for the implementation of all kinds of design ideas.

Related articles:

Required materials and tools

To install drywall on walls without a frame, we will need the following materials and tools:

• drywall sheets;
• gypsum mixture (dry) and a container for breeding;
• electric jigsaw;
• building level;
• paint knife;
• fishing line;
• rule (1.5-2 meters in size);
• yardstick;
• metal brush;
• paint roller (we will need it if the wall is made of porous material);
• rubber mallet;
• spatulas.

Sequence of work

Before sheathing a wall with drywall without a frame, you need to decide on the order of the work being done.

It will be as follows:

1. Measurements and calculations;
2. Wall preparation
3. cutting material;
4. Preparation and application of the adhesive mass;
5. Sheet fastening.

Measurements and calculations

The first stage of our work will be the necessary measurements and calculations. Here, with the help of a measuring tape, we measure the dimensions of the walls. Having specific numbers on hand, you can think through various options for placing sheets and determine the most suitable one.

Advice! When calculating, keep in mind that the sheets will need to be placed with an offset. This will avoid the appearance of cruciform joints.

Wall preparation

The next point in our story on how to sheathe a wall with drywall without a frame is the preparation of the wall. With a metal brush, we clean off dust, dirt and peeling from the wall. If the surface is porous, treat it with a primer using a paint roller.

Material cutting

In the case when the ceiling height is more than two and a half meters (this is the standard height of a drywall sheet), in addition to whole sheets, we still need inserts. It is better to make them in advance.

Before we figure out how to glue drywall to a wall without a frame, let's first decide on the technology for cutting this material. It looks like this.

First, we outline the line along which we are going to cut. Then, we make an incision on one side of the sheet, drawing a paint knife along the entire length of the marked line.

Then we break the sheet, bending it inward along the notch line. Then we make an incision on the other side, thereby cutting it. Thus, we cut out all the necessary inserts.

Advice! Do-it-yourself drywall finishing without a frame may include the need to make figured inserts.

In this case, you will need to use an electric jigsaw. After all, only with its help you can get a beautiful detail with smooth edges.

Preparation and application of the adhesive mass

Let's move on to the preparation of the adhesive mass. It is quite possible to use starting putty or building plaster instead of glue. But, in this case, in order to improve its quality characteristics, we add PVA or wallpaper glue to the water in which we will stir it.

Using a notched trowel, apply the finished adhesive in large drops around the entire perimeter of the back surface of the sheet.

Sheet fastening

The final stage of installation, as our instructions say, is the installation of sheets. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the degree of curvature of the wall. If the wall is almost flat, then you can glue the finishing material directly on it.

If there is curvature, then we eliminate it with the help of the so-called "beacons". These are square cuts of drywall 10 cm wide.

They are glued vertically at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. First, using a plumb line, we attach the extreme "beacons" (right and left). After that, we fasten the remaining cuts, orienting ourselves with the help of a fishing line stretched by the extreme “beacons” (see photo).

Advice! To avoid damage to the material with possible deformation of the floors, you need to leave small gaps. About 10 mm from the floor, 5 mm from the ceiling. We leave the same gap of half a centimeter between the sheets.

To do this, during fastening, we use pre-prepared wooden wedges. After waiting for the glue to dry, we close the seams with putty.

The gap near the floor is closed with a plinth. We putty the cracks near the ceiling.

If desired, they can be closed with a ceiling plinth. It will look beautiful and be inexpensive, since its price is not high.

We have reviewed in detail the entire sequence of works. And now you know how to fix drywall to a wall without a frame. But it is quite possible that something remains unclear.

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, various structures are made from it and ceilings are finished with it. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting metal or and then fixing gypsum sheets on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. fasten drywall in this way you can, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is.

What is this article about

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, a number of necessary conditions must be observed, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall drywall sheets without frame.

After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Related video to help

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

• Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
• Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
• Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
• Nails or screws;
• Building level;
• Simple pencil;
• Plumb;
• Scraper to clean up the edges drywall sheet;
• Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
• Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
• Rubber mallet;
• Ordinary hammer;
• Pliers;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Glue, to work with drywall sheets. You can also use the starting putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
• Water;
• Primer;
• Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
• Serpyanka;
• Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If the old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a mortar, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions should be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Drywall sheets, from the side of attachment to the wall, also need to be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface with glue. drywall sheet.

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the drywall sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first option. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden lining, and all the bulges can be removed with a regular planer.

As you can see, there are different ways to install drywall sheets, but the most reliable way to install GKL is to install it on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.