Tomatoes come from Peru, where the climate is very hot and dry. How to provide native conditions for tomatoes in our climate? For example, they grow in my open field, and the summer is cool, and it rains very often. At the same time, I want the bush to bear fruit until autumn, and give fruits, as they write on a bag of seeds - 10 kg per bush. In order to provide this southerner with comfortable conditions and, accordingly, a large harvest for himself, you need to be able to properly form a bush.

Quite often, gardeners want to get their favorite plants at no extra cost. The first thing that comes to mind in such cases is cuttings. And if you are a beginner or "lazy" gardener? Or do you come to your summer cottage only on weekends, and even then every other time, and still want to relax there? Then the idea with cuttings may not succeed. Why not let nature do almost all the work for us - propagate our favorite plants with layering?

My strawberry beds have been around for ten years. I, of course, update the bushes. Earlier, when May and June were dry, I took two buckets of delicious berries and another half a bucket of berries covered with gray mold from my “plantation”. If the beginning of the summer was rainy, then I got two buckets of gray rot and only half a bucket of ripe strawberries. It's a shame to share the harvest with some rot! I launched an attack on this bastard. So, step by step - why my strawberries never get gray rot.

Date biscuit muffins are incredibly delicious, slightly crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside, and the sweet date in this pastry becomes like chocolate. This simple dessert for tea is very easy to prepare in 30 minutes (along with pastries), it is only important to plan everything correctly, so follow my recommendations. To work, you will need silicone, metal or paper molds for cupcakes, since the dough for these biscuits is fluid, and without a mold it spreads.

In the middle lane, July has traditionally always been the hottest month of the year, but recently this is far from always the case. Sometimes May is hotter than July, and sometimes even September. But many plants traditionally open their flowers in July. And even with not the warmest weather, July is the most colorful and colorful month in the garden. In the middle of summer, almost all annual flowers traditionally bloom, including those sown in open ground.

For the vast majority of my acquaintances, the idea of ​​“not digging” sounds completely outlandish. Yes, it’s a sin to hide it, my husband (also of the old agrotechnical hardening) looks with pain at the undug beds. Although everything grows and bears fruit well on them. Therefore, in the spring, I allow him to dig something up so as not to radically break his worldview. We gradually get used to it: abrupt changes in habits are not for everyone. I will share my experience of farming "without a shovel".

Cucumber salad with onions and garlic is an excellent addition to a complex side dish or an independent vegetable appetizer for the festive table, which is very easy to prepare for the winter in large quantities. The recipe is designed for a liter jar, so it is convenient to harvest and store vegetables in a small kitchen in a city apartment. This sweet and sour pickled cucumber salad is stored at room temperature away from heaters in a dark and dry place.

Alyssum is one of the easiest cushion garden plants to grow. And for sure - one of the most fragrant. A charming honey cloud over the lace of alyssums can be enjoyed not only in parks and gardens. After all, even those who do not have their own garden can grow alyssums at home - and not only on balconies. Slightly changing its character, alyssum, however, remains a non-capricious and rather hardy plant. But you still have to take care of him carefully.

Vermicelli casserole with sausages and green beans is a great idea for breakfast or dinner. The dish turns out to be satisfying, energize in the morning or replenish the calorie reserves spent in the evening. The ingredients are simple and so is the cooking process. Pasta casseroles are unsweetened - with vegetables, meat, sausages or sausage, and sweet - with dried fruits, cream and various spices. Sweet casseroles are served for dessert. This dish can be made with any type of pasta.

With mushrooms, you can cook an infinite number of not only tasty, but also nutritious dishes, mushrooms are dried and preserved for the winter. It is not surprising that, closer to autumn, amateurs and professionals of "quiet hunting" en masse go out for mushrooms to the nearest (and not so) forest. At the same time, the number of poisonings by these gifts of the forest increases sharply. How to protect yourself from trouble by going to the forest for mushrooms, and how not to become a victim of low-quality mushrooms, we will tell in the article.

As a child, I was delighted with a fairy tale where the main character cleverly hid from the chase. He stuck twigs from a bush into the ground, and a dense, impenetrable green forest immediately grew up behind him. I have been experimenting with twigs since I was four years old. So, summer cuttings are a great opportunity to get a young seedling of the desired variety. The procedure is simple, fast and almost always it is possible even for beginners. Unsuccessful cuttings are associated with an obvious neglect of its basic principles.

Strawberry jam with pectin is prepared quickly and easily. Apple pectin (pectin powder) is commercially obtained from apple pomace. Pectin is added to many familiar products - in candy fillings, ketchup, marshmallows, marshmallows and marmalade. At home, pectin is used to make jam or jam as a thickener. The addition of pectin powder can significantly reduce the cooking time, and therefore save more vitamins.

Country life is cloudless and beautiful only in the eyes of an inexperienced city dweller. Any gardener will confirm that there is an eternal battle here, we can only dream of peace. Not a flood - so drought, not cold - so hot. You will not have time to cope with another sore, as it is time to fight pests. And their darkness! But such an unpleasant comrade as a slug still needs to be looked for. A small, slippery insect, feeding on young leaves and fruits, causes great harm.

No matter how modest a country or personal plot is, there is always a place for cucumbers. Experienced housewives will definitely choose the time to spin a few jars of their cucumbers for the winter. Moreover, with minimal care and observance of agricultural technology, you can grow an excellent crop. At the same time, only organic fertilizers can be used as dressings. What they are, how to cook them at home and correctly apply, you will learn from this article.

Pelargonium "Pinto Scarlet Star F1" is distinguished by early and abundant flowering, has large flowers with a gradient color from coral along the edges to white in the center, which look very beautiful against the background of emerald leaves. Pelargonium pleases the eye for a very long time: growers note that flowering continues until the very cold. High (up to 40 cm) bushes are suitable for planting in flower beds, flowerpots and balcony boxes.

Spring is the time for planting fruit trees, this is the “hottest” season for summer residents. The most common garden crops in the middle lane are apples, pears, cherries and plums. As in any business, it is necessary to follow the rules for planting fruit trees - only in this case, after a certain period, they will be able to please you with a bountiful harvest and will bear fruit regularly.

The organization of any garden begins with trees. Spring planting of fruit trees and shrubs is the best option, although this can be done both in summer and in autumn. One of the main advantages of spring planting seedlings of fruit trees is that over the summer it manages to develop the root system, the bark, which makes it better able to tolerate the first wintering. After planting seedlings, it is necessary to fertilize them with substances that stimulate the growth and development of plants.

The main goal of the gardener is to grow healthy and beautiful trees that give a good harvest and are pleasing to the eye. In order to plant a tree, you need to dig a planting hole. Its depth and diameter depend on the type, variety and age of the seedling. When planting seedlings of fruit trees in spring, the excavated soil of the upper fertile layer is placed separately from the underlying soil. 10-12 kg of humus are added to the ground of the upper layer, thoroughly mixed, after which part of the mixture is poured into the bottom of the pit in a slide. You can add mineral fertilizers for fruit trees in the amount indicated in the instructions. In order to tie the seedling after planting fruit trees on the site, a peg is inserted into the pit in the center, which should rise above ground level to a height of at least 1 m.

Having lowered the seedling into the pit, you need to carefully spread its roots along the piled hill of earth. The rest of the fertile layer (with compost and fertilizer) should be poured on top of the roots. After that, the seedling is well watered (1-2 buckets of water) and the soil of the lower layer is poured on top. The earth around the tree is carefully tamped, and the seedling is tied to a peg. Do not forget to observe the optimal distance when planting fruit trees so that they will not be crowded later.

The principle of planting seedlings of fruit shrubs is similar, but the pit needs to be made smaller. It is recommended to pour a hill of earth around the trunk to prevent freezing of still poorly established roots.

Planting and caring for seedlings of fruit trees is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Fruit trees are recommended to be planted under the protection of others that are more frost-resistant, such as mountain ash or spruce. A number of protective plantings are positioned to protect the garden from cold winds in winter. Buildings can also act as such protection.

How to plant apple and pear trees on the plot

Apple and pear trees are the most common garden crops. Apple and pear trees can be grown in almost all regions of the European part of our country, except for the northernmost ones. The apple tree is quite frost-resistant tree. It prefers neutral soils rich in humus and microelements, does not tolerate marshy soils and soils with a high level of groundwater (less than 1m).

The pear has higher frost resistance, especially in zoned varieties, but the pear gets wet faster than the apple tree, so fruit trees on marshy soils should not be planted in a planting hole, but on a hill that is poured in advance. When planting apple and pear trees, any soil that is on the site, compost, peat, sand, can be used as a starting material for such a hill. The base in wetlands is often broken red brick, fragments of slate and ceramic tiles, and medium-sized stones. Further, chopped large branches, trimmings and fragments of boards, branches, shavings can be laid on them.

The next layer is dried grass, food waste, torn and crumpled newsprint (no color illustrations). All layers are covered with earth and sand. The last, upper, layer is filled with fertile garden soil with a height of at least 0.5 m, mixed with peat. For at least one season, the hill must stand for the earth to settle. Since trees are planted in the spring, the hill should be ready by autumn.

After planting a tree, it is necessary to add soil to the hill every season, not only under the trunk, but also along the perimeter of the crown.

Distance between apple and pear trees when planting

Before you properly plant apple and pear trees, take care of the quality of seedlings - it is better to purchase seedlings in nurseries, choosing zoned varieties grown in containers, not older than 2-3 years. Such seedlings tolerate transportation and transplanting better, and buying them in a nursery guarantees that the tree matches the desired variety.

If the groundwater is very close, the hill is filled in the same way as in the previous case, but the top layer of soil is first removed, and pieces of slate or similar material are placed on the bottom of the pit formed to prevent the roots of the tree from growing deeper.

This technique is especially justified when planting a pear. In this tree, the root grows predominantly vertically downwards, and with this method, the main roots spread over the surface and do not get wet. The distance between apple and pear trees during planting should be at least 4 m from each other, as well as from other trees or buildings.

Fruit trees are planted for 20-25 years. Basically, apple and pear seedlings, after planting, begin to bear fruit at the age of 5, so the choice of planting material and the place for planting a tree should be approached very seriously.

Rules for planting cherry seedlings

During the placement of plantings, cherries prefer the gentle slopes of a small area on the southwestern, southern or western side. According to the rules for planting cherries, good aeration should be observed, since the soil in such places warms up better, which affects the plants favorably. However, planting cherries on hills is not recommended, since in winter the root system of the plant may freeze slightly due to the fact that the snow is blown off the hill by the wind.

If cherry seedlings are planted along the fence, they should be placed on a well-lit side. To avoid shading cherries with other trees (for example, apple trees), plantings are placed on the south side. If you plant a cherry on the north side, the tree will stretch out and practically will not bear fruit at all. Dwarf and semi-dwarf trees also require adequate lighting and warmth.

Cherry grows well on soils of various types, however, in order to obtain a high yield and sustainable fruiting, it is planted on fertile land with high physical indicators, sufficiently moist, which receives a lot of air. Chernozem, light loamy and forest soils have such properties.

Cherry does not tolerate heavy clay soils, as well as acidic ones. Low-lying areas and valleys are unsuitable for planting this crop, because cool air and moisture are concentrated in these places. The most favorable conditions for the full growth and development of cherries are on soils that have a slightly acidic or close to neutral reaction.

Distance between cherry seedlings when planting

The best planting material for a cherry orchard, both in the southern part of Russia and in the middle lane, are annual seedlings with a well-developed crown. However, in the northern regions, it is preferable to plant biennial seedlings.

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to check the depth of the groundwater. They should be at a distance of about 2 m from the ground. Seedlings are prepared for planting as follows: having taken them out of the winter digging, they are carefully inspected, damaged roots are cut off, as well as excess branches of the crown.

Planting is carried out at an early date, as dug seedlings can quickly take root and begin to grow. If planting is late, the seedlings may not take root (even with satisfactory care for them).

Plowing the soil with the application of mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as lime, if necessary, is carried out a maximum of 1.5-2 years before planting trees, and no later than September of the previous year.

If the soils have an average fertility rate, manure, compost or humus are used as fertilizer, which are usually applied at 5-6 kg per 1 m2. In the event that the soil is depleted, the rate of such fertilizers is 8-9 kg per 1 m2. Mineral fertilizers are applied in an amount 2 times less than organic fertilizers.

The distance between cherry seedlings depends on the variety. Trees with a wide crown, cherry varieties such as "Jubilee", "Vladimirskaya" and "Shubinka", are planted at a distance of 3.5 m from each other. The distance when planting semi-dwarf cherries is an average of 2.5 m.

When planting cherries, you can follow a scheme that involves a dense arrangement of trees. Usually this does not affect the taste of the fruit.

Planting fruit trees: distance between plum seedlings

Plum seedlings, acquired in the fall, are added dropwise for the winter into a pre-dug elongated hole up to 45 cm deep. They are laid in a trench at an angle, after which they are covered with earth to half the trunk. Then the soil around is tamped. In winter, the seedlings are covered with snow - so they will be better protected from frost. Elevations, light loamy soils are suitable for growing plums. Tree planting is done in the spring. The distance when planting plums is at least 3 m from each other.

In order to plant a seedling, they dig a hole 60 cm deep and 90 cm wide. The upper fertile soil layer is placed on one side, and the lower one on the other. Then a planting stake is installed in the center of the pit and two-thirds filled with the soil of the upper layer. Organic and mineral fertilizers are first added to it: 12 kg of compost or rotted manure, 1 kg of superphosphate, 0.5 cups of potassium chloride or 5 cups of wood ash.

It is convenient to plant plum seedlings together. The seedling must be installed on the north side, the roots are straightened on the surface of the mound, and then fertile soil is poured into the pit. When properly planted, the root neck of the seedling is at a distance of 4-5 cm from the soil surface. After planting, a hole is dug around the young tree, after which the seedling is watered. Plum garter to the stake is carried out using twine or film. If the groundwater level in the garden plot is above 1.5 m, the soil is raised by 0.5 m before planting the plum.

Most owners of cottages, gardens and plots buy seedlings on the market, where the seller can immediately give a lot of advice on how to plant them correctly. Often, sellers understand this business well, but there are often cases when the seller is just hired by a horticultural business to sell seedlings, and in this case, he is asked to write recommendations that he memorizes by heart and tells you whether it is correct or not.

Well, if you have your own personal experience in planting and laying out a garden and growing this tree, and if not, and the recommendations turn out to be incorrect, then goodbye to a young fruit tree - at best it will not bear fruit for a very long time, at worst it will die before our eyes , right after landing.

Therefore, it is always important to know what, when and how to plant correctly - a fruit tree, especially a young one, a seedling is not a field for experiments - believe me.

So, how to plant a tree in the garden.

In the beginning, consider the very structure of a young fruit tree - a seedling in photo 1.

Rice. 1 The structure of the seedling

As many know, its roots are separated from the trunk by the root collar.

Before planting a seedling, make sure that you find the root neck (usually this is the branching point of the first large root of the root system).

This is important because grafting can be done both in the trunk of a rootstock (the so-called vaccination for stem), but it can also be made into the root neck - therefore, it is impossible to navigate when planting a seedling for grafting - it will be more accurate to rely on the root neck.

Landing site - preparation

To plant a seedling, dig a hole approximately 80 centimeters in diameter, and a little less than a meter deep (80-90 centimeters in Figure 2).

Now it is important to fill it, for which take manure (necessarily completely rotted) and peat (two garden carts each), as well as complex fertilizers and sand.

At the same stage of planting a young tree, you can drive a stake into the bottom of the pit, to which you later tie the seedling so that it grows straight.

It is better to fill the hole for the seedling in layers - soil, humus, peat and mineral fertilizers, then mix, and repeat again in the same order. Backfill the planting pit until a small mound about 20 centimeters in height appears around the seedling above the ground. This mound subsequently compensates for the shrinkage of the soil around the seedling, so it should be about 7-10% of the depth (this is approximately how much the backfill soil mixture settles).

If you fill the planting hole flush with the soil, the soil will settle and after the first rain there will be a puddle around the young seedling, which means it will start to rot (not necessary, but it is quite possible, at least the risk of bark rotting in rainy weather is very high ).

However, it is also impossible without moisture at all, and the fight against it should be reasonable, so make a kind of rim around the seedling that will allow water to soak into the depth and not spread over the site. (Figure 2).

Rice. 2 Planting hole preparation

Rice. 3 Correct and incorrect filling of the pit

a) shrinkage of the soil with proper filling of the pit

b) soil shrinkage due to improper filling of the pit

Proper planting of a seedling (Photo 5)

Now we start planting a seedling. To do this, we make a recess on top of the poured mound, which should slightly exceed the size of the roots of the seedling in size.

Now carefully straighten all the roots, spread them apart and in depth as evenly as possible, and sprinkle with soil so that the root neck rises 6-7 centimeters above the ground.

Before watering the seedling, you need to compact the soil, you can do this with your foot - in photo 4 you can see that in this case the toe of the shoe should be located towards the seedling.

It is not necessary to tie a seedling to a stake tightly, with a figure eight - the task of a rope or twine is not to pull the tree seedling to the peg as tightly as possible, but only to hold it in an upright position so that it grows straight.

Some gardeners believe that if the upper roots of the seedling are visible during planting, then this is not scary and they will still be drawn into the depths a few days after the start of growth, but I try to cover them completely - after all, the young seedling is still very tender and weak.

Rice. 4 Trampling the soil around the seedling

Rice. 5 Planting a seedling on a hill

How to water a seedling

Pour a freshly planted tree with four buckets of water (by volume). You can do this with a garden watering can and a hose. In most cases, I do not pour water from - but before planting I try to heat the water in the sun or take it from a garden barrel, you can rain it.

Still, the water from the well is cold.

Water slowly - letting the water go deep into the roots, make sure that the mound around the seedling does not wash out.

If a seedlings are planted in the spring, then you need to water it every 7-10 days until autumn, if the summer is not rainy enough, then even more often, there is not enough ground moisture for a young tree.

If planting in autumn, then you can water less often.

Pruning a seedling

The tops of seedlings can often dry out by 6-7 centimeters, because the tree is still young and growth by winter may simply not have time to form. This is especially often manifested in those seedlings that were planted in the fall.

Therefore, in autumn seedlings, you can cut off the top to the very border with mature wood (dense lignification of the shoot is usually clearly visible - the bark is glossy there, and in the immature part the bark is pubescent, the internodes are located very close to each other).

If it is not possible to determine this by the color of the bark or leaves, then you can simply trim the seedling to 2-3 upper buds after planting - this will be enough. At the same time, trim the side branches so that they do not outstrip the central trunk in height.

If the seedling is planted too deep, can it be transplanted?

Most often, seedlings die in winter - there are many death factors here - and poor winter hardiness (it happens that they deceive our brother in the summer resident, in fact, we buy a pig in a poke). The second no less common reason is improper planting of a seedling.

If the root collar was deeply buried and hidden by the ground, the tree, instead of immediately entering into active growth and vegetation, which will allow it to easily endure the winter, will take a long time to settle down in a new place, or, as they say, “grow”. Also, as a result of the deepening of the root collar, the tree may not start producing crops for a very long time.

In this case, it will be necessary to carefully dig the seedling, rake the ground and find the root collar. In the event that it is below ground level, then the seedling or young tree will need to be dug deeper (without damaging the root system) and, together with the earthen clod, raised to the required height. As a rule, after such a procedure, the tree begins to bear fruit in due time.

Advice for summer residents and gardeners

Even seedlings of winter-hardy fruit varieties, if grown in southern nurseries, are poorly adapted to the climate of the middle zone. Therefore, choose nurseries located close to your site for the purchase of planting material. Try to buy seedlings from the manufacturer, and not from a reseller.

Expert comments:

Amateur gardeners ask themselves many questions: When to plant? How to plant?". What gardeners do not come up with, for example, they lay rusty iron, stones, branches, etc. in a pit, with such a planting, the tree does not grow well and, as a result, dies.

In almost all gardening literature, it is recommended to plant fruit trees in the spring, because in the fall they do not have time to take root, and they are recommended to simply dig in until spring. I had the unfortunate experience of planting fruit trees in the spring, as many horticultural scientists recommend, namely planting apple trees in pits prepared in the fall. At first, the plants grew and developed well, as soon as the time of flowering came, they bloomed, and then the flowers and ovaries dropped and withered.

After that, I started planting fruit trees only in autumn, and they grow very well. See what happens in nature in autumn: the trees sow themselves, drop bones, seeds, etc. on the ground.

And I do so. I plant the purchased seedlings of fruit trees only in the fall. I prepare a hole depending on the size of the root system, if it is large, I make a hole 60 × 60 cm, if it is small, I make a smaller one. I put 2-3 buckets of rotted manure in the pits, mix it with the ground, you can replace the manure with mature compost, add 4-5 glasses of wood ash and 1.5 cups of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Before planting, I soak the roots in a clay mash for a day, because almost all seedlings have a dried up root system, and then I plant them. We plant a seedling together. I put the sapling in the center, I drive a stake near it, I tie the sapling to it. We throw earth on the roots. I shake the plant so as not to deepen the root neck, then I compact the soil with my feet along the radius from the trunk. The root neck should be 5-6 cm above the soil. Then I sprinkle mounds of earth to the trunk, which I rake from the trunk to the edges, it turns out a round earthen roller. I pour 1.5-2 buckets of water to the trunk (see fig.). I do watering to supply moisture to the roots and for better contact with the soil. The next day, I correct and sprinkle the sagging soil, then mulch with compost.

Trees planted in autumn before the onset of spring take root well, as they grow even when the above-ground part is resting. When cold weather sets in, I mulch around the trunk with compost and dry leaves with a layer of 20 cm, and wrap the aerial part of the tree with burlap.

How to transplant a tree seedling

Sometimes only after some time it becomes obvious that the place on the site for the tree was chosen unsuccessfully. It's not worth it to grab a saw! Plants that were planted no more than 5 years ago can usually still be transplanted (ideally in October and April in dry weather).

So that the tree (in our case, hawthorn (Crataegus) "Carrierei") does not lose too many young roots, it must be relocated along with an earthen clod.

First (2) with a shovel, form the upper part of the earthy coma with a hemisphere, removing the earth in layers, starting from the trunk. Then (3), cutting off the lateral roots, separate the lump.

(4) Pry it up with a shovel, cutting off the roots going deep into the ground. (5) Carefully trim all protruding roots with secateurs. If some roots are not completely chopped off, 6 lumps will begin to crack and may even fall apart. To prevent this from happening, be sure to complete the work and only then take out the tree. Then (7) place it on top of a piece of burlap and (8) tie off the ends of the fabric. For reliability, tie a lump (9) with another piece of burlap.

Then (10) shorten the branches to reduce the diameter of the crown, then the plant will need less nutrients and water (in this case, the chances of a good rooting in the new place will increase). Move the tree to a new location and plant at the same depth as before transplanting.

You can not remove the burlap, it is enough to untie the knots. Fill the planting hole with soil and water the plant well.

Preparing a planting hole for planting a seedling

No one will argue that when planting seedlings, the planting hole must be filled with fertile soil. But where can I get it? Yes, of course, if you decide to plant your garden at once and at the same time are going to plant, say, a dozen fruit trees, then the total volume of the required fertile soil will be several cubic meters. In this case, the best option is to bring land to the site by car. What if there is only one landing hole? Where to get soil? Cut off the beds? It is possible, of course, to do so. But just who will benefit from this? Well this is how much you have to cut the beds! And did you really work for this, poring over your garden and carefully planning plantings? That's really true: we treat one thing, we cripple another.

Some will notice to me that you can buy land in a store. Okay, but let's do the math first. The volume of an ordinary landing pit measuring 80x80x80 cm is about 500 liters (half a cube). In other words, you will need 10 fifty-liter packages of a pound, the retail price of which is from 200 rubles and more. It turns out that the total cost of this pleasure will be 2000 rubles. Yes, it's tricky.

And therefore, for several years now, when planting fruit seedlings, I have been using a technology that allows several times to reduce the cost of purchasing soil and at the same time significantly increase the fertility of the soil in the pit. The technology is based on the use of green manure.

I dig a landing hole of the above dimensions. I try to make the walls somewhat inclined (wait a minute to accuse me of excessive luxury, then you will see why this is necessary). At the same time, I lay the surface layer of soil with sod in a separate place, and store the rest of the soil next to the dug hole.

If I intend to use seedlings with an open root system (their sale usually ends in June-July), then I prepare the pit as early as the thawed soil allows.

And if the seedlings are with closed roots, then you can start preparing the pit until the beginning of August, but not later, otherwise you may not have time to prepare everything for planting. The fact is that the duration of the preparation of the pit according to my technology is two and a half, or even all three months.

Slowly but surely

I buy green manure grass seeds in advance at the rate of one package for each hole. I mainly use lupins and vetch-oat mixture, but I think other green manures are also possible. You also need a package of complex fertilizer, for example, azofoski (70-80 rubles), and a package of 40-50 kg of peat soil (about 150 rubles). Total expenses for 320-330 rubles.

When the hole is dug, I pour a handful of green manure seeds to the bottom of it and put it into the ground. With the help of a cultivator or a rake, I try to close up the seeds on the side walls of the pit - it is for the convenience of this operation that I make them inclined. Then I water with a solution of complex fertilizer and wait two weeks.

During this time, siderats give abundant seedlings, first at the bottom, and then on the walls of the pit (photos 1 and 2). Then I cut off the fresh shoots only at the bottom with a sharp chopper, sprinkle with a layer of excavated soil (12-15 cm, primarily with turf, laid

blowing its roots up) and again plant the seeds of green manure. I compact the poured soil. I do not touch the growth on the walls. Again I water with a solution of fertilizers.

At this stage, I install a landing stake, which I make from two connected U-shaped galvanized profiles 1.5 m long. It turns out a square pipe, in the lower part I drill a dozen holes for water to exit. This design allows further delivery of water and fertilizer solutions directly to the root layer, leaving surface weeds without nutrition.

So, after two weeks, I repeat all the steps, while adding a small amount of peat-sand mixture and wood ash to the soil taken out of the pit to improve the soil structure. Notify if necessary. I repeat the procedure 4-6 times.

In this article, we will talk about planting trees. After all, a seemingly simple matter, like dug a hole, buried it, watered it and forgot it, does not always end with a positive result. The material of the article will help you prepare for planting a tree, tell you where and by what technology to plant a fruit tree (apple, pear, plum) so that the seedling has a good chance to take root, develop and fully bear fruit, delighting you. At the same time, the trees on the garden plot always raise its importance not only for the owner, but also the market value of the garden plot, in case of sale.

Where is the best place to buy a tree for planting

Buy a seedling from a specialized nursery or garden center. Currently, you can buy a seedling by mail, while organizations selling seedlings assure the reliability of the shipment, that the seedling will have a high percentage of survival. I want to say right away that such a plant has an order of magnitude less chances to take root, so try to find an alternative in your region by buying it close to the planting site

What to look for when buying a tree for planting on the site

Choose seedlings with a closed root system, that is, when the soil envelops the roots, while it is held by the roots. Be careful, as when shaken, the earth can spill out of the roots. The survival rate of such plants with proper planting is almost one hundred percent.
Do not buy a seedling with bare roots, it may not take root, although of course if there is no alternative, then you can take a chance. When choosing a seedling with bare roots, pay attention to the condition of the roots, they should not be chopped, dried, they should be elastic.
Plants grown in containers can theoretically be planted at any time of the year.

When is the best time to plant trees (apple, plum, pear)

It is better to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, so it is preferable, although of course it is possible in the fall. We will still consider the spring period for planting. It is necessary to choose a period when the weather for your climatic region is not extreme, there is no strong wind, frost, strong sun, rain. The survival rate of the seedling is very dependent on the weather this season, so in a hot or cold season that differs from the average, the survival rate will be lower. If in the hot season it is still possible to somehow compensate for the lack of moisture by watering, and covering the seedling from the sun, then in the cold it is much more difficult. Therefore, planting a seedling is partly connected with the case, with a certain luck.

Place for planting apple, pear, plum fruit trees.

It is best to plant a seedling on a sunny, preferably windless tree. It is necessary to provide for the further development of the tree, do not plant a seedling closer than 4 meters to another tree.
Better fruit trees grow in chernozem, clay soil, worse in sandy.

How to plant a tree seedling

At the moment, there are many ways to land. Here we consider the classic way, the one that is described in most textbooks and manuals. Pits for planting in the spring are recommended to be dug in the fall. In the fall, the walls of the pit will loosen, become more porous, which will later allow the roots to grow more easily. If you did not have time or opportunity to dig a hole in the fall, then dig it no later than 1-2 weeks before the planting date.
Pits are dug with a depth of 1 meter and a diameter of 1.2 m, this is for trees with human height. If you have a smaller seedling, then the depth will be proportionally smaller. Organic fertilizers (humus, sawdust, manure) must be applied to the pits, you can not do this, but then the plant will lack nutrients and will look weak. Fertilizers must be allowed to rot so that they do not sag later. As a result, the depth of the pit should decrease to 60-80 cm.

Rice. 1 The structure of the placement of the earth, the roots in the planting hole. Dimensions are for a seedling of 1.2 meters.

It is recommended that when planting fruit trees, the soil from the lower and upper parts be interchanged. Why do it? The upper layers of the soil play the greatest role in plant nutrition, it is from it that mineral fertilizers, nutrients for the roots of the tree, are washed out. By mixing the soil, the supply of nutrients to the roots will be faster and more efficient.
Bury tree roots with loose earth. When planting a plant with an open root system at the bottom of the hole, first form a mound, spread the roots along its cone, then dig in.

Fig. 2 Scheme of installing a tree on a cone of earth in a pit for planting. The sequence of application of soil for backfilling the pit.

After you have buried the roots, make a roller around the seedling. Since the root system in loosened soil does not securely hold the tree, install a post and tie the tree to it. In order not to damage the roots, you can install 2-3 columns around the perimeter of the roller and tie the tree on stretch marks to them. Water the seedling with water - 1-1.5 buckets. It is desirable that the water be at room temperature - 20-25 degrees, for this it can be heated in the spring. If it doesn't rain for a long time, keep the soil moist and water it when it dries out. At first, it is necessary in every possible way to help the seedling take root
Recommendations to whitewash fruit trees after planting in order to protect them from spring sunburn are not always the best option, since the bark of a young tree is elastic and whitewashing will smear the pores in it, disrupt air exchange, and this will undoubtedly affect the growth and further development and fruiting of the tree. To protect against sunburn, you can simply knock down two boards at a right angle and attach them to the tree at the butt as a screen from the sunny side.

When to expect a harvest from a planted fruit tree.

So in case of successful engraftment and depending on the variety of trees, the harvest can already be expected for the 8th season. (for an apple tree)

10.01.2017 14 822

Planting fruit trees - what requirements should be taken into account for a rich harvest?