Causes of smoke in a brick stove and how to eliminate it. What to do if the stove smokes Why the new stove smokes possible causes

When the stove smokes, it is dangerous for the life and health of people, the safety of the heated building and causes a large waste of fuel. Even a light smoke from the stove during kindling is literally the owner's money thrown to the wind. In most cases, if you got the stove in good condition or the new one was accepted from the stove-maker as it should be, the smoke from the stove can be completely eliminated on your own in a short time. You only need to know how the fuel burns in the furnace and how to heat it correctly and what can cause smoke during the operation of a working furnace. About the furnace of furnaces already (and it is worth studying it), and we will deal with the search for and elimination of the causes of smoking in a completely serviceable (running) furnace in this publication. For the information of readers: even a black bath can be heated so that the air in it is clean, and a barely noticeable non-corrosive smoke will appear outside.

Why does the stove smoke

If the stove smokes, then this happens as a whole on the trail. reasons, in descending order of frequency of occurrence:

Weakening or loss of traction- most often observed in sauna stoves due to the special conditions of their operation, see below.
Furnace power boost (remelting). A brick oven of a perfect device (channel, bell-type), when you try to force it beyond the limits set by the design of the furnace, it will smoke in a special way, see below.
Insufficient air supply in the oven room. If a hard frost hit, a strong wind blew, the house was clogged tighter for the sake of saving heat and the stove, which had previously not caused complaints, began to smoke, then the reason is most likely that it is simply suffocating without air.
Thrust overturning(reverse thrust, reverse thrust) - at the running stove in the house, it occurs depending on changes in weather conditions in combination with changes in the environment.
Violations in the design or operational wear of the furnace: if it previously melted poorly, smoked slightly, and now smokes heavily, the reason must be sought here.
Incorrect oven design, careless and / or unskilled execution, improper chimney construction, untimely (too fast) commissioning of the stove are the main reasons that a new stove smokes. The same - suddenly the stove began to smoke after the reconstruction, see below.

General information, what are the possible reasons that the stove smokes, you can learn from the video:

Video: the basics of the causes of stove smoke

However, in addition to the items in the list above, there are also hidden reasons. A specialist will almost certainly understand them, but sometimes the owner of the furnace just has to suffer and break his head in order before the furnace starts up properly. Therefore, we go further and figure out how to recognize the source of smoke by external signs, get to it as soon as possible and eliminate it. Here you need to immediately keep in mind, in addition to the above, the following. circumstances:

Is the oven set up correctly? Has anything changed in the environment? Is the air supply to the oven sufficient?
If the stove is running, how long has it been unheated? Has it stagnated, i.e. did not survive the winter in an unheated room?
What material is the stove made of - brick or metal?
How often is the stove heated, with what fuel - coal, conditioned seasoned or random firewood?
What is the nature of the smoke: strong, weak, during kindling, systematic or random from a stove that has come on (burned up)?
Was the stove already in operation or is it new/refurbished?

Norms and rules

In most cases, the immediate cause of the stove smoking is hidden in the chimney. If it is arranged incorrectly, it will not work to get rid of smoke once and for all. And with a good chimney, an unimportant stove can be adjusted so that it will never smoke.

For the chimney, in turn, the most important thing is the elevation of the chimney above the surrounding objects. Furnace SNiPs give the minimum allowable values for it. In areas of private development, meaning growing trees, the construction of outbuildings, superstructures of neighboring houses, etc., it is desirable to slightly increase the elevation of the mouth of the pipe, see fig. Quite a bit, but this will both greatly reduce the likelihood of the stove smoking, and make it easier to find its cause, if the stove still smokes.

Of course, you should not immediately rush to build up the pipe. While the furnace is in operation, the pipe only needs to be cleaned regularly (before the start of the heating season and at the end of it). Suddenly the stove began to smoke - we will try to cope with this without leaving the warm room and without climbing onto the icy roof. And in the spring, in terms of warmth, we think carefully about how to build up the pipe after all. Perhaps, and put a deflector on it, see below.

Note: if the roof of the building is flat, then the elevation of the mouth of the pipe of 600 mm should be given above the highest point of the parapet or superstructures (lantern, terrace canopy, etc.). For more information about the rules and regulations for the construction of a chimney of a heating and cooking stove, see the video tutorial below.

Video: about the norms of the chimney device

The stove smokes in the bath - what to do?

The stove in the bath can smoke for the same reasons as the brownie, see below. But there are also specific reasons for its smoking. The sauna stove, firstly, is fed by highly humidified air. Secondly, the bathhouse is not heated all the time and the stove cools down with it from washing to washing. Thirdly, the best bath stove is cast iron, but many baths also have steel welded stoves. Baths of new construction are rarely supplied with brick ovens, and in old brick ovens from firebox to firebox it becomes damp.

A chimney to a brick oven in an old bath is often attached in the same way as in residential buildings in order to save on construction work (item 1 in the figure): a brick hog is built in the attic (a sunbed, a horizontal chimney elbow), and a steel pipe is removed from it closer to the ridge of the roof. The bathhouse is a low, small structure, and it is difficult to put a high pipe on guy wires on it.

All this together leads to increased deposition of fluffy amorphous soot (pos. 2), which quickly clogs the chimney. If peat, brown coal or raw firewood is loaded into the furnace, then soot can tighten its entire gap throughout one furnace, pos. 3. In addition, an air lock easily occurs in a chimney of this design (see below): the horizontal column of cold air in the hog perfectly supports it.

Symptoms of the deposition of fluffy soot in the chimney of a frequently cured stove are quite typical:

Checking the draft before kindling (see the article on furnace firing) shows that it is sufficient; it is impossible to check the draft on the cleaning door due to the lack of it.
Kindling proceeds normally, but the initial load of fuel flares up for a long time.
When reloading fuel, the flame immediately turns red and the stove begins to smoke.
When you try to increase the air supply by slightly opening the blower, the stove chokes, thick smoke comes out of it, and there is waste.
When burning with substandard fuel, flooding and smoking of a correctly melted and started furnace on the go is possible.

Cleaning the chimney of a sauna stove, as a rule, does not cause serious difficulties: its knees are short and they can be “teared” with a broom-golik on a long stick (a broom made of twigs without leaves). A radical way to get rid of fluffy soot is to insulate a steel chimney, pos. 4 in fig. Fluffy soot begins to be deposited at a chimney temperature below 80 degrees, and then grows, so to speak, on itself. If there is at least 100 degrees at the mouth of the chimney, fluffy soot can not be particularly afraid.

Note: before insulating the chimney, be sure to check - is the fire-prevention cutting of the pipe in the roofing pie done according to the standards? Does it need to be strengthened? The pipe will now become much hotter.

The deposition of fluffy soot can be completely eliminated if, in addition to insulation, the pipe of the bath stove is equipped with a Volpert-Grigorovich deflector. It increases the draft of a short chimney in proportion to its warming up: in the short time that the sauna stove cools down, all the remnants of flue gases with fluffy soot germs will be thrown out. And at the same time, until the chimney has warmed up, the draft will not be excessive and it will not be difficult to bring the stove to the working stroke only with a blower. It is quite possible to make the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector with your own hands, see the video:

Video: Volpert-Grigorovich deflector to increase draft in the furnace

Note: There is another possible reason for the smoking of a sauna stove with symptoms similar to the deposition of fluffy soot - too large and / or loaded with too heavy, excessively heat-retaining, but poorly heat-conducting stones, for example. granite. If the chimney is clean and the stove is naughty “like a bath”, partially unload the heater - most likely, the smoke will stop. For other problems with eliminating smoke from a new stove in an old bathhouse, see also the story below:

Video: new stove in the bath - installation and why it smokes

Getting rid of the smoke of the house stove

Typical cases of smoke from a house stove are as follows:

It smokes when kindling, there is no draft, or very weak, or reverse;
A running furnace that works flawlessly suddenly starts to smoke heavily on the move or the next time it is started;
It starts normally, but when the flame covers the fuel, it starts to smoke, from the furnace to the furnace it gets stronger. Bad traction. Opening the damper reduces smoke, opening the blower increases it. Fuel consumption has increased;
The running (old, working) brick oven starts sluggishly, smokes evenly on the working stroke. The draft is weak, but increases when the furnace warms up;
The iron stove smokes until it warms up;
The stove begins to smoke evenly when the furnace door is opened;
When the door is opened, a puff(s) of smoke are emitted (the oven spits smoke). Sometimes pops are heard, then it spits smoke from the blower. The open hearth fireplace regularly spews smoke.
A new oven always smokes when the door is opened;
The reconstructed stove smokes immediately when kindling or when trying to bring it to work;
The stove begins to smoke when other heat generating devices are started: stove, fireplace, etc.

As you can see, the smoke from the stove is very different from the smoke from there. Therefore, before analyzing typical cases, you need to familiarize yourself with some related things. They will also help to figure out why the stove smokes, in case of atypical. Bird nests or tangles of hibernating snakes in the chimney are still, in general, common. But once the author was a witness to a case when an excellent, impeccably well-groomed stove suddenly began to smoke so much that everyone had to run out of the house. In the end, a beloved and adored half-suffocated ... domestic cat was removed from the chimney. Which after that began to frantically tear the stove for nothing, until a scratching post was adapted to it.

Traction test

The structure of the house stove resists the flow of gases more than the chimney. The cold draft of the “naked” chimney must be strong for it in order to stretch the gases through the possibly very complex structure of the furnace. With a candle or a match on the opening of the blower or firebox, the total thrust is checked. If the stove smokes, then you need to check the draft on the first cleaning door in front of the chimney, see fig. If weak or not, check the condition of the chimney channel using a mirror on the wire and a flashlight. Now there is no need to climb onto the roof for this - 2-3 white LEDs powered by batteries can be attached to the mirror.

Reverse thrust

Draft reverse can happen in any stove if, for some reason, the air outside is denser (not necessarily colder) than the air in the house. The essence of this phenomenon can be understood if you stand in front of an open window in winter: a chill creeps up your legs, and the top of your head feels the movement of warm air out. The cross section of the furnace and chimney channels is small relative to the size of the house, and when a reverse draft occurs, they serve as a convenient way for the inflow of dense outside air down; sparse comes out by any other means.

Thrust overturning is caused by weather conditions in combination with other external factors or by themselves, see next. rice. For example, trees grew near the house, a residential attic was built on it. The wind shear itself initiates reverse thrust only in exceptional cases, when its strength is over 8-9 points. At the same time, clouds of smoke are ejected from a normally heating furnace in time with gusts of wind.

Reverse draft is detected simply: when checking the total draft before kindling, the flame of a candle / match is blown out. It is impossible to kindle a furnace with an overturned draft, but usually the reverse draft is very weak (except for wind from a very strong wind), and it is possible to blow through the furnace, see below, and then the normal furnace draft will overpower the reverse. The way to get rid of reverse thrust once and for all is to put a closed deflector on the pipe: TsAGI on a brick one, Khonzhenkov on a round one. These deflectors, due to the peculiarities of their design, kind of screen the mouth of the pipe from dense outside air.

Deflectors and ... deflector

It is necessary to choose a deflector for a chimney with knowledge of the matter. For example, the Volpert-Grigorovich deflector, which is good in many other respects, does not protect well from wind reverse thrust. The deflector shown in Fig. on the right, is capable of inducing reverse thrust itself in light winds of a certain direction. A sign of the unsuitability of the deflector for a given chimney under these conditions is soot on the outer surface of the pipe under it. If you have one, try to remove it - it is quite possible that the stove will stop smoking.

Gas locks

Reverse draft, air and steam locks in the furnace, even in quite competent manuals on furnace business, are often considered one and the same phenomenon, although these things are completely different, which is already revealed by checking the total draft. If the draft is overturned, then the flame of the candle / match is blown out of the furnace. If a gas plug has settled in the furnace or chimney, then there is either no draft at all, or there is a weak one. The thrust reverse is provoked by external conditions, and gas plugs are a disease of stagnant seasonal stoves (partly also baths), i.e. survived the cold season unheated.

aerial

An air lock is typical for any stoves with a non-insulated steel chimney connected to the stove through a burr in the attic. The owners of country stoves for the winter close the view and all the doors of the stove in order to protect it from dust, which gives a very harmful and difficult to remove soot during combustion. But not everyone knows that it is also necessary to plug the mouth of the chimney, so that the plug does not fall into it during the winter. Or lack of time is obtained when the November wind whistles.

It is clear that a column of cold air is then kept in the chimney. If, as they say, a little in the spring the tubercles wilt, open the stove and let it air out for half a day, cold air will flow down. But if a stagnant stove is started after the weather has changed for a long time, it will be held by the pressure of the warm air in the stove, which has warmed up along with the house. This is the airlock.

The air lock is determined by comparing the draft on the firebox / blower and on the cleaning door of the hog (which, by the way, must be mandatory). If the draft there and there is approximately the same or absent, then the air plug. Additionally, you need to make sure that foreign objects do not get into the chimney. If the stove has direct-running dampers (see below), then they are simply opened: the draft has not gone - there is an air plug. Or something unnecessary in the chimney.

Steam

The steam plug sits only in stagnant brick ovens; most often - in channel vertical schemes, i.e. with wells. During the winter, the stove becomes damp; by heat, the moisture saturating it evaporates and partially remains in the structure of the furnace. Water vapor settles down, blocking the lower passes between the wells.

The steam plug is clearly diagnosed: if the draft on cleaning the chimney is normal, or the total draft returns to normal when the forward stroke dampers are opened, the steam plug is. However, it is more difficult to expel it than air (see below). Better - prevention: for the winter in the oven they plug (clog) with rags or straw all the doors, visible slots of the view, gate and valves. So the oven does not suck up a lot of moisture during the winter, and the one that accumulates will be easier to go home the way it came. The main thing is only (do not take it for formalism, this is for you): when leaving for the winter, hang a sign on the stove like: “Prepared for wintering. So many (number) of doors and so many (number) of gaps are clogged. When opening the stove, do not dump the plugs in a common pile, but lay them out separately and, when finished, count whether the total amount converges.

How to get rid of traffic jams

Any plug, as well as a small backdraft, is eliminated by burning in a firebox with the door open, one by one, halves or quarters of a newspaper sheet or a handful of shavings. When the acceleration of the cork stops smoking and its flame reaches into the hail (outlet) of the furnace, the furnace can be started. The airlock is expelled easier: in the chimney, through its cleaning, a torch from a newspaper sheet is burned. If the steel pipe is up to 5 m high, half a sheet is enough.

Acceleration of traffic jams and return of thrust in the traditional way is rather tedious. Sometimes it takes 2-3 hours to accelerate the steam lock, and it takes half a day to a day to return the thrust. If a house with a stagnant stove is electrified, this process can be greatly simplified and accelerated.

The first way - the blower is closed, the gate and the view are fully opened. The firebox door is opened. A household fan is placed close to the opening of the firebox and turned on. It will be useful to give a jet of hot air from a household hair dryer into its stream from behind. The return of thrust (except for the reverse wind hurricane) occurs in 5-15 minutes. A dense vapor lock accelerates in 10-20 minutes. The oven then starts (fires up) in the usual way.

The second way - the oven is prepared for overclocking, as in the previous one. case. The tip of a household hair dryer operating at full power is inserted into the hailo and blown for 3-10 minutes. Then they complete the acceleration of the cork or the return of thrust: 3-4 halves of a newspaper sheet or 2-3 handfuls of chips are burned one by one in the furnace, and the furnace is immediately (!) Melted.

Note: if the acceleration of traffic jams / return of thrust is carried out with newspapers or other unglued paper (for example, toilet paper), it is first crushed into a loose lump.

ZPH

What does it mean - a direct stroke valve. This is not a winter to summer heater switch. ZPH - emergency technological device.

Opening the ZPH in a complex furnace bypasses the flue gases into the chimney in the shortest way, see fig. This in most cases allows:

Avoid urgent evacuation of people from a smoky room and damage to property - the smoke is immediately drawn back into the furnace;
If the plugs are loose and the back draft is not strong, blow out the entire smoke path without interrupting the start of the furnace: the air plug is pushed out, and the steam plug is pulled into the chimney due to ejection;
Carry out operational diagnostics, where is the obstacle that violates the draft - in the structure of the furnace or in the chimney, see above and below.

Therefore, if you order the construction of a complex furnace or are going to build it yourself, make sure that the ZPH in it are where they should be. When purchasing a house with a stove, try to find out if there is a ZPH in it and where exactly.

outlet temperature

In the operation of a stove with a chimney, a number of rather contradictory conditions must be met:

In order to prevent tipping of the draft in a properly arranged chimney, except for catastrophic natural phenomena, the temperature of the flue gases at the mouth of the chimney must be at least 100 degrees Celsius.
If the temperature drops below 140 degrees anywhere in the chimney, acidic condensate may form. It causes increased deposition of fluffy soot and damages stove/chimney structures.
At temperatures above 200 degrees, soot deposits do not occur - all unburned solid fuel particles fly out into the pipe.
The furnace is the most economical, the least clogged and almost never smokes if the temperature in the chimney at the cut of the view is approx. 250 degrees.
If the temperature rises above 400 degrees in any place of the smoke path after the high of the furnace, the combustion in the furnace will go beyond the furnace. Out-of-furnace combustion is almost always pulsed: unburned flue gases accumulate in the heat storage part of the furnace until the flash concentration is reached. Then they detonate - a bang is heard, the furnace spits out a puff of smoke. In addition to smoke, burning with pops is dangerous by possible violation or even destruction of the structure of the furnace.

Based on these conditions, household stoves are designed so that in the optimal mode of operation (on the working stroke) the temperature at the cut of the view is 180-200 degrees if the chimney is straight or 230-250 degrees if the chimney with a hog is in the attic. Now the temperature at the cut of the view can be checked with a household multitester with a thermocouple. If they are not there, in the traditional way: a thin dry birch or pine torch is thrust into the gap between the valve of the view and its clip and kept in the pipe for 40 minutes. Then they take out and compare the color of the outer and "hot" parts:

The color of the "hot" part has not changed - the temperature is below 120 degrees, if the sample is pine or below 140, if birch.
Turned yellow - 180 pine, 200 birch.
Turned brown - 250 both.
Blackened with preservation of wood structure - 350 degrees.
Charred and smoldering (there is smoke) - above 400 degrees.

Consequence: having set the furnace stroke according to the type of flame, also check the temperature at the exit to the chimney with a torch. Save some fuel and drastically reduce the chance of smoke.

Typical cases of stove smoke

Now we can proceed to the analysis of the typical cases of smoke listed above. But first, the golden rule: before you eliminate the smoke, look outside or send someone - is there a strong stream of smoke coming out of the chimney? Do sparks fly? Did the flame appear? Does it smell like burning outside? If yes, immediately extinguish the stove and chimney from the roof: soot burns! Fire! The best extinguishing agent is a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher of at least 2 kg: it will immediately extinguish the fire and will not damage the stove. But by no means powder! These are designed to extinguish ignited flammable liquids. Once on a hot hard surface, the extinguishing powder can explode!

Case 1

Smoke when kindling. Checking traction. Overturned - we return, see above. Just no or weak - we check where the obstacle is. We examine inside the chimney and stove. Freely - we expel the cork. If the stove had not been cleaned for a long time before and was heated with random fuel, a lump of fluffy soot may collapse. In the case when a full load of fuel was immediately placed in a stagnant furnace, it is quite likely that bricks or masonry mortar dust will fall out of the seams. A stagnant stove (especially a systematically stagnant seasonal country house) is brought to full speed for 3 furnaces: 1/3, 1/2 and 3/4 of the full load of fuel. Since problems with the spring launch of seasonal stoves arise systematically, watch another video about kindling a country stove after winter:

Video: how to melt a country stove after winter without smoke

Case 2

Worked, worked, and gradually went to smoke. It burns badly, it has become gluttonous. Give air and thrust - does not flare up; possibly humming and/or popping sounds. The likely cause is cracks in the masonry (case), through which cold air enters the furnace, knocking the furnace off its working stroke.

If cracks are visible on the outer finish of the furnace (on the left in the figure) or along the seams of its lining, we carefully inspect the furnace from the inside. Harmless and safe non-through cracks quickly overgrow with dense graphite soot or soot (coking). But suspicious clean cracks (shown by red arrows on the right in the figure) need to be covered up. But not with oven masonry mortar: it dries for a long time, does not seize properly with the old one, and the pressure of the outside air will soon blow it out again. We need heat-resistant oven glue for a temperature of at least 1300 degrees with a full curing time of no more than 4 hours, the so-called. repair. Now on sale there are heat-resistant quick-hardening adhesives for temperatures up to 1700 degrees. It is also highly desirable to update the exterior finish of the furnace (facing - sort out) and thoroughly coat the “bare” furnace with ordinary heat-resistant plaster by 140 or more degrees (clay, cement).

Note: also check the firebox door - a gap between it and the frame of only 1 mm will give the same effect.

Case 3

Suddenly, she began to smoke strongly and evenly. The probable cause is a mechanical obstacle in the chimney: a lump of fallen soot, fallen brick, building dust, etc. We stop the oven, open (remove) the cleaning (see also below), find the obstacle, remove it. The oven may need to be repaired.

Case 4

It smokes when it “fires up”, and the stronger it is, the more it blows openly. We cover the gate - there is less smoke. First of all, we open the window and the door - perhaps the stove simply does not have enough air. It did not help - the chimney was overgrown with fluffy soot from bad fuel or the wrong firebox. Need to inspect, make sure and clean, see below.

About fireplace smoke

Fireplaces often smoke from lack of air. The relatively good efficiency of an English fireplace is achieved by its huge air consumption, and a modern living room is not a hall of a knight's castle with a ceiling above 20 feet (6 m).

The causes of fireplace smoke and ways to eliminate it are shown in pos. 1-3d fig. But, firstly, if the fireplace is without a smoke tooth (top right in the figure), then it will spit smoke, as they say, from a sparrow sneeze above the chimney.

Second, a traditional English fireplace is built on a 3/4 foot (22.9 cm) high podium. If the fireplace insert is level with the floor, it will smoke from the excess cold air, just like a cracked stove. To check, put a row of bricks (bottom right) or something else non-combustible in front of the firebox. Doesn't smoke? The fireplace needs to make a deaf or very frequent grate. Just don’t put your feet up on her like a lord after a fox hunt - you’re not wearing natural chevrolet boots with raw buff leather soles.

Case 4a

On the move, the stove smokes, but less and less. It is possible that in half an hour or an hour it will “fire up” altogether - in the chimney or in the furnace, deposits of “normal” dense graphite soot. Needs to be cleaned, see below.

Case 5

It smokes until it warms up, an iron stove. We check the chimney, the furnace is clean. Most likely, the room hog sagged - the horizontal elbow of the steel chimney in the room. A room hog makes it possible to make a potbelly stove type very economical, up to an efficiency of 85%. But the far end of the hog should rise 3-6 cm above the one closest to the stove. If the far end of the hog sags during operation, the stove will smoke until the entire chimney warms up. If the sagging is more than half the height of the section of the hog, a permanent air lock will occur in it, and without its acceleration, the furnace will not start at all.

Case 6

The old running stove smokes evenly, the door is slightly opened - most likely, the stove run is set incorrectly: there is too much air, but the draft is less than optimal. We check the temperature at the cut of the view - if it is less than 140, you need to slightly open the gate and cover the blower. The temperature on the view is normal - the chimney of an extremely small section begins to grow fluffy soot, it needs to be cleaned. And quickly: the likelihood of soot igniting in such conditions is the greatest.

Case 7

The oven spits smoke when the door is opened - most likely it is overheated (forced). Look into the furnace - it is either completely filled with white flame, or yellow-red waves go into the high. The temperature on the view is more than optimal. You need to cover the air, and then the gate.

A rather rare case - the flame in the furnace is beating, the temperature on the view is normal or lower. Then - an inspection of the structure of the furnace from the inside: one of the channels was covered with soot, or it was littered, to the point that its clearance became less than the cross section of the chimney. If there is at least one place in the entire smoke path, the cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bwhich is less than that of the chimney, combustion will certainly leave their furnaces and become pulsed.

Case 8

The new oven smokes when the door is opened. Here, the most likely reason is its incorrect structure.

The lower edge of the firebox hail must be located at least 3 cm above the upper edge of the furnace door, pos. 1 in fig. Only then will the flue gases rush into the highlo due to natural thermal convection. For reference: the calculation is based on the Reynolds number Re.

In a bell-type furnace, the hailo is most often horizontal and is located on the roof of the furnace, i.e. in any way completely above the door. But the heil of the channel furnace can be at any height, depending on where the exit to the first well was constructively. If the door and hail openings overlap each other in height, when the door is torn off, part of the flue gases will be forced out (pos. 2 and 3) and immediately cool down, which is smoke. Very dangerous, by the way: a lot of carbon monoxide is also emitted.

In a properly designed and built furnace, if the door and hail openings overlap in height, there should be a pass between them (do not confuse with a smoke tooth) the same 3 cm above either the upper edge of the furnace opening, or its own haila, depending on whether which one is higher, pos. 4 and 5.

How to fix the issue? Only prevention, tk. in a good furnace, there is no extra furnace space. First, look at the design or order of the furnace and make sure that they meet the specified conditions. Secondly, according to the ethics of the stove business, the stove-maker must himself, without waiting for a reminder, say when the stove is dry and he will come to start it. Arriving at the launch, the master must, in the presence of the owners, melt the stove, put it on the move, show that it does not smoke with the door closed and open, and only after that receive the due reward. And with understanding owners then - a set table to wash the stove.

Case 9

The stove smoked after repair or reconstruction. Most often - when installing a "new, good" branded firebox with glass. To avoid this, before buying a firebox, make sure that: a) the firebox is a stove, capable of working on a system of smoke channels, and not a fireplace, designed only for a direct chimney; b) the thermal power of the furnace is not more than that of the old furnace - the flow of flue gases from an excessively powerful furnace will not be completely missed by the smoke path of the furnace, and the systematic underload of fuel will cause its overexpenditure.

Case 10

The stove smokes if something else (stove, fireplace) starts up on a common chimney with it. If before everything worked as it should, but now it smokes, you need to check each device for all the cases described above. On a common chimney, a malfunction of any of them can cause smoking of a serviceable one, and a “bad” one will seem to be working.

If the common chimney is new, then, most likely, the pairing of the outlets to it is not done correctly. Correctly, the outlets of heat-generating devices are discharged into a common chimney through a separating-distribution box, the sections of the shoulders of which are proportional to the thermal power of the devices. For example, at pos. 1 fig. below is a box arrangement for devices of approximately equal power. In this case, any malfunction (except for foreign objects entering the chimney) will, as it were, go towards the device that caused it and can be clearly localized.

In everyday life, if you need to attach a stove or fireplace to an existing stove, they often simply cut out a window in its chimney, cut its lower edge into a wedge to make a separating tooth, and attach a new device, pos. 2. In this case, a number of malfunctions are possible, "transferred" to an innocent device. For example, a column of soot from waste fuel will grow on the tooth, which can collapse in any direction. And the cork from a stagnant, uncorked stove will slip to the stove, and so on and so forth.

How to clean...

The chimney is most often clogged with soot, because. temperature is below 200 degrees. A short straight pipe, for example, a Russian stove or a country fireplace, can be cleaned with a golik - a broom made of twigs without leaves on a long handle. High vertical chimneys are cleaned with a chimney brush with a weight, see fig. on right. And how to clean the chimney and stove yourself, see the plot:

Video: do-it-yourself cleaning of the stove and chimney

...and repair the stove

With the structure of the furnace, the matter is more complicated. In order to at least inspect it from the inside, cleaning doors (cleanings) are needed. But in a complex oven, they may need so many that they will spoil the look of the room, and a forgotten ajar or loose cleaning can cause smoke and waste. Therefore, in many house ovens, cleaning doors are replaced with cleaning bricks sitting dry in the masonry. By the way, according to the same professional ethics, a conscientious stove-maker, handing over the stove to the customer, had to show where the cleaning bricks were. And according to pre-revolutionary legislation, the failure by the previous owner of the furnace to indicate to the new owner the location of cleaning bricks could also entail criminal liability.

If there are no necessary cleanings, then the bricks replacing them are easily found by tapping. And, what is important - suddenly the cleaning bricks (brick) showed themselves outwardly, this is a sure sign that something is wrong with the furnace, even if it is still quite on the go.

A cleaning brick can “appear” as a depression on the wallpaper (pos. 1 in the figure), their bulge or discoloration. On the whitewash under the plaster, a crack appears outlining the brick (pos. 2), through which air can be sucked into the furnace. Further - dirty and heavy, but simple, pos. 3-6.

The stove smokes in the house, and you do not know what to do about it? I propose to sort out in turn all the reasons that can lead to such a result, and consider methods for their elimination. My accumulated experience suggests that any owner can handle this.

What to do and who is to blame

To determine why the stove smokes during kindling, you should first answer a few general questions:

What accompanies the process of smoking?
Smoke appeared immediately or after some time?
How long has the stove been smoking??

Now let's move on to an overview of specific situations:

Situation #1: Thrust tipping over

Back draft can be formed due to the downtime of the stove for several days. During this time, air flows change direction, and when the fuel is ignited, a puff of smoke will appear right in the house. It is noteworthy that the weather does not affect this in any way, the problem can occur both on warm summer days and cold winter nights.

You should not blame the appearance of the reverse thrust of the stove. Such a phenomenon is possible in any even ideally constructed furnace structure.

To fix the described problem with your own hands, it is enough to increase the air temperature in the chimney. There are three ways to get there:

A photo	Description of the method
	Opening the cleaning door chimney pipe; We warm up the cavity
	We open the hog on the attic floor or even dismantle it if necessary; We warm up the cavity mounting hair dryer or other improvised way.
	Remove the cap from the chimney outlet; We throw singed sheets of paper at him.

Situation #2: wind

Sometimes a strong wind can blow back into the house the smoke coming out. There are two solutions to this problem:

Increase the height of the pipe along with the head;

Change the configuration of the visor on the head itself.

Situation number 3: errors in the masonry

If the smoke returns to the room from the very beginning of the operation of the furnace, then most likely the cross section of the chimney is too low. This is the fault of the stove maker, and you yourself cannot fix it. You will have to call the furnace master and hope that the matter will be limited only to repairs, and not to a complete redevelopment of the structure, since the price of such work is considerable.

Situation #4: wear and tear

If there is no draft in the furnace, then the cause may be the banal aging of the heating structure, as a result of which:

Ash accumulated on the inside of the chimney, narrowing its cross section;

Cracks appeared in the masonry leading to pipe leakage.

Instructions for correcting this situation are as follows:

A photo	Description
	We clean inside of the chimney. At the same time, you should not limit yourself to soot, if we are talking about a brick pipe, then you should immediately remove the fallen off masonry elements.
	We close all the cracks furnace mortar, we restore the masonry.

If you do not have the appropriate skills or your own attempts to correct the situation were unsuccessful, then you should call the furnace master. Although it will be more expensive, it will give a guaranteed result.

Situation number 5: errors in the laying of the well

Another problem that may arise due to the incompetence of the stove-maker is the smoke in the room with the door open. It is noteworthy that if you close it, then the smoke goes out into the chimney as expected.

So why does the stove smoke when you open the door? This is due to the fact that the master placed the entrance to the well too low, and it is preferable for the heated air, together with the products of combustion, to exit through a higher door opening. This can be clearly seen in the following diagram:

This cause of smoke can be dealt with by erecting a wall inside the furnace, the upper edge of which will be a couple of tens of millimeters higher than the upper edge of the doorway, as shown in the diagram:

After such an upgrade, the iron door can remain open, air flows with combustion products will still move towards the entrance to the well.

Conclusion

You have learned about the causes of smoke from the stove entering the interior of the house and how to eliminate them. The video in this article contains additional information, and you can ask any questions in the comments.

Have you ever asked yourself the question: why is the furnace smoking? So you're in luck. So far lucky. But at any moment, everything can change, and then a headache called “smoking stove” will come. What to do? I passed this test and will share with you so that you, my reader, know how to avoid this problem.

How did it all start?

One of the most unpleasant moments of my village life came on a frosty evening in early March 2014. As usual, he began to melt the stove. He threw logs into the firebox. I set fire to the birch bark. The fire began to slowly sway, picking up new pieces of bark with its small flame, and reached the wooden twigs. Everything is as usual. Went for coal. Came back fifteen minutes later. And my eyes were horrified. Everything is in smoke. Smoke completely in all rooms. Breathing is not possible. I can not see anything. A real smoke screen. Like in fog. With great difficulty he opened the windows and doors. Started to choke. I had to run outside. There is only one thought in my head: is it really a fire? What to do?
The flame of fire is not visible. Recovering his breath again in the house, to the stove. And here I saw how the smoke was not coming, but coming down from the stove door. Quickly took a bucket, scoop. He opened the kindling, began throwing the smoking logs into a bucket and quickly taking them out into the street, throwing them into the snow.

So I ran a few times. Until all the logs are thrown out. An hour has passed. The smoke slowly dissipated.

The question was: what happened? What to do?

It is clear: the problem with the boiler. Several times he lit logs of firewood and time after time smoke poured from the stove into the room. I didn't want to go down the drain. The night passed in a cold house. Thanks to the electric heater, saved. In the morning to the neighbors for help and advice. They recommended to go to the stove-maker Vasily. He knows everything, he will understand. Went down. No, he went to his daughter in the city. Will appear in 10 days. Wait a long time. It's frosty outside. It's cold in the house. I decided to find out the problem myself - why the stove is smoking.

Why does the stove smoke?

Thanks to the Internet for its knowledge. I read it, I began to understand that the problem was the lack of traction. She's definitely not. You bring a burning match into the furnace and you do not see the deflection of the flame.

Why is there no traction? There may be several reasons, but the essence is the same. Somewhere something is clogged and does not allow air to pass through.

I began to figure out how I did everything. Furnaces are different. But in each there should be places for cleaning from soot. Everywhere they write about cleaning doors. I do not have them. Went back to neighbors. Instead of a door in the wall, they have a brick that performs this task. Take it out and clean everything. Should be close to the boiler. From the opposite side, I begin to probe the wall and look for roughness. Looks like I found it. I rip the wallpaper off the wall. And I see this.

Here is the treasured brick. There are exactly.
I take it out and start cleaning out the contents of the furnace channels. He took out three buckets of incomprehensible garbage mixed with ashes.

Now there should be success, after all, I cleaned a lot of time. I turn on the stove and nothing has changed. The same. The reason is different.

Alright, let's start looking into it further. A neighbor came, he could not specifically suggest anything. Everything is clear with him - one brick. True, he advised me to find a stove-maker and completely shift the stove. I did not want to bear the inconvenience and additional costs. What does it mean to change the oven? Better find the reason.

There is only one way - to the roof.

Climbed. Looked around. There is such a thing, which includes a chimney from the street and a chimney into the furnace. He called this building a compensator.

He knocked on the pipe that goes out into the street, something fell. And with such a sound. It seemed that the fall was promising. I decide to open and clean the contents of the compensator. I open, or rather, also pull out a brick from the masonry. I try to do everything very carefully. Cleaned up. Took out two bags of soot. He repaired everything and, satisfied, ran to set fire to firewood, to heat the house. The result didn't work. Smoke pours, as before, into the house.

What's the trouble? What is the problem?

Went to neighbors. No one knows. Everyone says there should be one cleaning brick. I found it and cleaned everything there. Tapped the pipe and also cleaned everything. What is the problem then? It's getting cold. There are no solutions. The second night is spent in a cold house.

It is impossible to sleep, constantly all sorts of thoughts climb into my head. The reason is somewhere else. But where? I start to analyze. Cleaned: boiler - furnace passage - compensator on the roof - chimney to the street. I understand that there is somewhere another place unknown to me. I suppose, apparently, it is located in the place where the furnace exits the room to the roof. In the morning I look at the wall. Everything is smooth. Wallpaper is back on the wall. Could there really be a second place for cleaning under them? There is nothing to do - I tear off part of the wallpaper, and start examining the wall. Astonishment! I find a small part of the wall sealed with mortar and here I decide to gouge and look for the treasured brick. A few minutes of searching and here it is salvation. The brick is located. I take it out and start cleaning everything. Carried out four buckets of soot. I'm putting everything back together.
I burn wood. Doesn't smoke. Yes! The long-awaited happiness has come. Smoke, as before, goes into the chimney. Everything starts to work. Fine. I am pleased to. Understood.

What should be done to keep the oven from smoking?

There are many types of ovens. I have a stove with a built-in boiler for water heating. In my opinion, the most important thing is the chimney, smoke channels and cleaning places.

Smoke channels. You need to know their location, number, how they pass and whether they are in your oven.

If there are smoke channels, then there must be places for cleaning. Cleaning doors are usually installed. I don't have them, I have to. In places where the furnace is clogged, ordinary bricks are located. They are simply pulled out and, after cleaning, re-inserted into place, sealed with mortar. It is very uncomfortable. I have two cleaning places. One is located on the back wall of the furnace opposite the boiler. The second is at the location of the gate, on the back wall. You don't know what a shiber is? I didn't know either, now I do. What an interesting name - shiber. A gate is called a conventional damper, which allows you to block the smoke channel after the firebox, changing the intensity of the draft. My shaver looks like this.

When buying a house, be sure to find out from the previous owners: what is the stove, its design. Where are the cleaning doors located? On the roof, inspect everything and sort it out. Find out how the chimney is cleaned, by what means. When was the last time everything was cleaned?

It is necessary to make it a rule and every year before the start of winter (preferably in late summer - early autumn) everything is completely cleaned of soot. Inspect the stove itself, the chimney, for cracks.

And then in winter you will not be taken by surprise by a terrible question: why is the stove smoking?

The smoke rising above the roof indicates that the house is warm and comfortable, and connoisseurs can even predict the weather by its shape and intensity. It is much sadder if the clubs refuse to go into the pipe, but accumulate in the room: it becomes difficult to breathe, all things are saturated with a specific smell, and the heating efficiency suffers. How to be in this situation? First of all, you need to study the possible reasons why the stove smokes, and try to eliminate them.

If the stove smokes “aged”, the reason may be banal - during operation, the blower became clogged with ash, and the draft deteriorated. In this case, it is enough to rake out the accumulated deposits with a poker. If simple manipulation did not help or there was no ash, you will have to carefully check the entire system.

The stove must be regularly cleaned of ash

Violation of the rules of operation

Most often, the cause of smoke is non-compliance with the rules of operation, as a result of which natural air exchange is disturbed:

Accumulation of soot in chimneys, chimneys or stove flue. A layer only 3 mm thick reduces heat transfer by almost half, worsens traction and can lead to a fire. You can carry out general cleaning on your own - take a thick wire or pole, tightly wrap one end with an unnecessary rag, lower the structure into the pipe and thoroughly clean the walls. If there is little soot, special formulations can be used. They are added to the firebox along with firewood, and during the combustion process, volatile compounds are released that destroy pollution. The easiest and cheapest option is a handful of coarse salt.
Damp chimney. If the oven has not been used for several months, condensation may accumulate in the system. In this case, it is necessary to open the lower soot purge and kindle a small fire of flammable materials in it. Dry chips, paper or dry alcohol tablets are suitable as raw materials. After the chimney warms up and the draft is restored, you can close the damper and melt the stove.
Using the wrong type of fuel. Why does a coal stove smoke into the house if it is heated with wood? The reason is the large difference in temperature. In furnaces designed for coal, the length of the blower is equal to the size of the firebox. When laying firewood, cold air does not have time to warm up and returns to the room, bringing with it the smell of burning and soot. To solve the problem, it is enough to shorten the blower by laying half bricks on its end (the amount depends on the total length).

Important! Often the stove in the house smokes due to the fact that the firewood is stacked incorrectly. If the fuel does not cover the grate completely, the main air flows will pass by. As a result, flue gases are cooled and go into the room. To eliminate smoke, it is enough to evenly distribute the logs and lay them closer to each other.

Firewood must be laid in even rows.

The appearance of defects

What to do if all visible causes are eliminated, and the stove still smokes? Another reason for insufficient draft can be cracks in the walls of the chimney and / or furnace compartment. Cold air enters the furnace through the cracks, lowering the temperature. Fuel burns worse, a lot of smoke is emitted.

If a "cobweb" of small non-through cracks appears on the walls, it can be eliminated independently:

Clean the surface by widening the cracks with a chisel.
Prepare a liquid cement primer with water and coat the walls thoroughly.
While the surface dries, prepare the clay mortar for plastering. The classic recipe includes 2 parts clay and 1 part sand. To increase strength, you can add 0.1 parts of asbestos. The resulting mixture is sifted through a fine sieve and closed with water until a thick consistency is obtained.
Fill the cracks with a triangular trowel, smooth the surface and rub with a wooden trowel.
Let the plaster dry and apply the topcoat over the entire wall, working from bottom to top.
Wait for the mixture to dry, soak a wooden grater in water and rub the bumps in smooth circular motions.

Important! Cracks in the tiled cladding are rubbed with a solution based on alabaster (gypsum plaster) and chalk. Tiles with significant defects should be replaced with new ones. For masonry, a solution of clay or fireclay mortar is used.

Cracks in the brick and crumbling seams - the reason why the stove smokes

Another reason why the stove smokes in a bathhouse or house can be a loose brick. Under the influence of a constant temperature difference, cracks form in the masonry of the first channels of the chimney or firebox, the mixture crumbles, and the bricks remain loose. It is better to shift such sections:

Select a quality brick with the most smooth walls.
Carefully remove damaged bricks from the masonry, remove the remnants of the old mortar from the recess. Clean the surface with a metal brush.
Apply the clay mortar to the prepared surfaces, paying special attention to the bottom of the recess.
Lay new brick. If trimming has been carried out, make sure that the smooth side is directed towards the outlet of the exhaust gases.

Important! If the stove smokes into the house only in cold weather, the reason lies in the too high thermal conductivity of the pipe and chimney. To fix the problem, it is necessary to open all the seams on the outer parts, grease them well with a clay mixture and plaster the entire surface. The new layer of plaster should be a couple of centimeters thicker than the previous one.

For coating ovens, you can use special mastics

Why is the new stove smoking?

Design flaws

What to do if a new stove smokes? In most cases, the cause is structural miscalculations and violations of masonry technology. The heating furnace must have the following parameters:

The chimney opening is 14*27 cm (wood, peat) or 14*14 cm (coal).
The height of the chimney is 6 cm from the grate of the stove to the top.
The height of the pipe above the roof is at least 70 cm, but at least 50 cm above the ridge. The exception is when the ridge is more than 1.5 meters away - then the pipe can be made the same height.

The cause of smoke may be too narrow a pipe

If only a professional stove-maker can fix the internal dimensions of the chimney, then you can try to solve problems with the pipe yourself:

Explore the area around the house. If there are tall trees or walls nearby, the wind can blow into the chimney and drive smoke into the room. In this case, it is necessary to put a cap on the top of the pipe, and with a probability of 90% the problem will be solved.
The stove in the house or bath may smoke due to the insufficient height of the pipe. Ideally, it should be increased, but this is not always realistic. If the heating season has already begun, you can lengthen the pipe with improvised means by putting on it one or two metal buckets without a bottom. This design does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but it will last the winter.

Important! If the stove smokes during kindling, most likely, the reason lies in the design errors made by the stove-maker. This may be an inappropriate pipe section, a low first channel or unswept chimneys. Such shortcomings can be eliminated only in the process of repair.

Scheme for determining the height of the chimney

Commissioning of the new furnace

The service life of the furnace and its trouble-free operation depends on how correctly it was put into operation. After the masonry is completed, a lot of moisture remains in the materials, which must be removed before the start of the heating season. The drying period lasts 7-10 days in the warm season and up to 3 weeks in the cold. The process takes place in several stages:

Open all valves and constantly ventilate the room in which the oven is located. Drying should continue until the damp spots disappear from the walls, and condensate no longer appears on the metal parts.
After 5-6 days, make a small fire in the morning and evening. Gradually increase the volume of firewood bookmarks.
Do not try to speed up the process with a too active firebox. Overheating can lead to cracks and cracks in the masonry.

Important! Do not use softwood firewood. When they are burned, tarry soot is formed, which is almost impossible to remove from chimneys.

The stove in the bath can also smoke due to improper kindling. To avoid smoke, it is enough to follow simple rules:

Clean out the ash pan and firebox. This must be done before each use of the oven.
Open the valve and lay the kindling on the grate. A torch, birch bark or dry wood chips will do.
Slightly open the blower door and light the kindling. After that, load the firebox with firewood. Lay them in tight horizontal rows.
Close the firebox and fully open the blower door.
Re-load firewood after 30-40 minutes. During this time, the previous batch should burn to large coals. Try not to open the firebox in the intervals between bookmarks, so that cold air does not enter the furnace.
Regulate the combustion process with a blower and a valve. The flame should be calm, straw-colored. If the fire turns pale, you need to cover the blower door - this way you will reduce the flow of air. If it gets dark, then the door needs to be opened.
For the last bookmark, it is best to use aspen firewood. They form a long flame and burn out the accumulated soot.
After burning the last batch of firewood, rake the remaining coals onto the grate. The valve can be closed when the coals darken, and bluish lights do not appear above them.

Many believe that you can drown with any materials. If only they were on fire. With this approach, sooner or later the question arises why the stove smokes when the door is open or when kindling. The reasons may be as follows:

Small debris does not burn out completely. Light particles are picked up by the air flow, and they settle on the walls of the chimney.
Glossy paper residue clogs the grate.
Damp wood causes excessive soot formation.

As fuel, it is best to use dry birch firewood, approximately the same in size. Other hardwoods found in the middle lane are also suitable - aspen, ash, alder, poplar, oak. Willow gives little heat and burns unevenly.

If you have eliminated all possible causes, and the stove continues to smoke, do not be heroic and contact a specialist. A malfunction of the stove can lead not only to the appearance of a peculiar smell, but also to carbon monoxide poisoning or a fire. Be careful!

Video: causes of stove smoke

Despite the fact that in the modern world wood stoves are gradually giving way to gas and electric appliances, they are still very actively used. Firewood is used for kindling fireplaces, traditional stoves, bourgeois stoves, as well as Buleryan stoves. Most often you can find stoves in baths. All these structures have a rather complex structure and require systematic maintenance. A malfunction will be indicated by black smoke coming from the oven. Let's try to figure out why the stove smokes in a bath or living room.

Smoke from the oven is a serious malfunction of the device.

There are two issues to be separated here:

Smoke comes from a new stove;
The stove has been in use for a long time.

If you have a brand new stove that smokes when kindling, the following reasons are possible:

If there is condensation on the inside of the door for half an hour after the firebox, then most likely the stove is simply not completely dry. In this case, you must leave it to dry;
If the stove has dried out, then, probably, some flaw was made in the design of the stove, which led to the fact that the smoke from the stove goes into the house. It is better to immediately call the wizard to troubleshoot.

There are quite a few reasons why the stove, which had always worked properly before, suddenly began to smoke during kindling.

Causes of smoke

So why does the smoke from the stove go into the house? To find out, it is necessary to conduct a major inspection and identify what caused the smoke. Let's look at the possible reasons below.

Smoke in the room due to improper functioning of the furnace

External causes

Such factors have nothing to do with the operation of the furnace. Sometimes the reason that the stove smokes in a bathhouse or house is some object that mechanically prevents the outflow of air from the chimney. Such an object may, for example, be an overgrown tree. In this case, the problem is easily solved by cutting off extra branches.

Another reason why the stove smokes during kindling may be the ingress of precipitation into the chimney, as a result of which the smoke cools too quickly, which leads to condensation and an air lock. In such cases, a metal umbrella or cap is installed above the pipe.

Poor quality firewood can affect the appearance of black smoke from the chimney.

If the stove has not been used for a long time, the reason why the stove smokes in the house may be an unheated chimney. You can eliminate this cause by using a piece of matter that needs to be ignited inside the chimney.

Attention! Furnace equipment must be cleaned regularly to avoid malfunctions. Such cleanings should take place annually and be accompanied by a thorough inspection of the oven in order to detect faults in a timely manner.

Causes related to the design of the furnace

In some cases, the possible reasons why the stove smokes are related to its design.

The laying of the furnace was carried out in violation of the established rules. An inappropriate section of the chimney may be the reason why the stove smokes in the bath. In this case, smoke may enter the room. To eliminate this reason, it is better to call the wizard;
Wind can also be the reason why the stove smokes into the house. To eliminate this cause, most likely, you will have to lengthen the chimney. You can also try to change the shape of the visor mounted on the head;
The stove smokes during kindling, when a phenomenon called "draught overturning" occurs. If the stove has not been fired for some time, the air flow can change direction, which happens at any time of the year, and causes the stove to smoke. It is necessary to increase the temperature inside the chimney. For this purpose, you can open the bur or the uppermost door, providing access to the inside of the pipe. In extreme cases, the already described method with a lit cloth is used;
Defects in the laying of the well can also cause the stove to malfunction in a private house. It happens that the stove smokes in the bath with the door open, while when it is closed, no deviations are observed. In this case, poor-quality masonry of the entrance to the well can become a source of problems. The well will need to be redone. If this is not possible, it will be necessary to build a wall inside the stove in such a way that its upper edge is slightly higher than the furnace door;
Another reason why the stove smokes when kindling is often the aging of its parts. This can manifest itself in the narrowing of the chimney due to accumulated soot, the formation of cracks, the partial or complete destruction of individual structural elements. If the reason why smoke comes out of the stove into the house is due to wear and tear, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the contaminated parts and repair the destroyed ones;
Another possible reason why the stove often smokes when the door is opened may be the installation of a defective iron door during installation, through which cleaning is carried out. As a result, it does not close tightly, which is the reason why the stove smokes when the door is open.

Important! Do not underestimate the danger of emerging smoke. This phenomenon can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.

Solutions

So, you are faced with a situation where the stove smokes in the house. To fix the problem, you need to study its nature in more detail:

If the potbelly stove smokes when the firebox door is opened, the possible causes are similar to those of a traditional stove. It is necessary to clean it and check the correct installation of the pipe. It is better to melt it with high-quality fuel, without using sawdust or straw;
The reason why the fireplace often smokes may be poor-quality installation or mistakes made during its design. The height of its pipe should be higher than that of a conventional furnace. An inappropriate depth of the firebox can also be the reason why the fireplace smokes in the house. This discrepancy must be eliminated by placing a metal plate on the smoke tooth or by filing the edge of the tooth. Also, sometimes the reason why the fireplace began to smoke into the room may be the presence of forced ventilation. You can try turning it off;
The iron stove smokes in the bath - the dampening of its walls, as well as the installation of an oven under it. It will help to build a brick wall between the stove and the cabinet;
The reasons why the buleryan smokes can be associated with the low temperature of the outgoing gas, as a result of which the inner surface of the chimney may be contaminated with soot. Cleaning the pipe will help.

Equipment cleaning methods

The following methods are used for cleaning:

With the use of chemistry. From time to time, special substances are added to the oven, due to which the accumulated contaminants are peeled off;
Furnace vacuum cleaner. Can help with not very strong pollution;
Mechanical. The most time-consuming - using brushes and scrapers.

So, if you are looking for possible reasons why a fireplace smokes, a stove in a bathhouse or a house and do not know what to do, use our tips. They will help restore the normal operation of the furnace equipment.

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