Connecting wooden parts: types of connection, purpose, execution technique, necessary materials and tools, step-by-step work instructions and expert advice. Types of wood connection and their description. Adhesive joints of wood and its features. AT

The tree is widely used in various areas of human household activities. Especially widely wooden structures are used in construction. However, any wooden structures consist of separate parts that must be connected together in one way or another.

There are several types of connections. But you need to learn one rule: before starting work, you need to carefully mark out future cuts and always follow the markup. In the final product, the parts must fit exactly and tightly.

Methods for connecting boards and bars of small length: 1 - "butt" (butt); 2 - "in the groove and crest"; 3 - "on the mustache"; 4, 6 - "toothed" adhesive; 5 - "half a tree"; 7 - "on the rail"; 8 - "direct lock" overhead; 9 - "oblique lock" overhead; 10 - "straight" and "oblique" tension locks.

The simplest and relatively fragile is the "butt" connection. For this connection, the ends of the fastened parts are made clearly rectangular, and the ends are processed with a planer.

The mustache connection is similar to the butt joint, but here the ends of the parts are beveled at an angle of 45o. For accurate marking, a device called a yarunok is used. Such a connection is strengthened with a plywood lining or a metal square. Strengthen the connection "with a mustache" by fastening on the inside of a square or triangular beam.

More durable connections include “overlay” connections by making saw cuts. If the parts to be joined are of the same thickness, then cuts are made on both parts for half of their thickness. In the case when one part is thicker than the other, then the cut is made only in a thicker part. To enhance the strength, the parts are glued and additionally fastened with wooden dowels or screws.

If it is necessary to obtain a T-shaped connection, a half-tree overlay is used. In this case, both parts are cut if they are of the same thickness, or a thicker part is cut off with different thicknesses of the fastened elements.

The most durable connections that have come down to the present time from ancient times are connections with through spikes, on two plug-in round spikes and in the middle knitting method with a single spike. Details connected by a straight through spike are additionally fastened with dowels and glued. To make a connection on two round plug-in spikes, use a template pad made of plywood or thick cardboard to accurately drill the holes for the spikes. The median knitting with a single spike is deaf, if you need to hide the end of the spike on the front side, and through, which is much stronger than deaf.

For box joints, spiked joints with straight and oblique ("dovetail") spikes are used. Despite the higher labor intensity, the connection with oblique spikes is more durable and reliable.

For reliability, all joints can be strengthened with dowels, gluing, nails, screws, bolts, and a combination of these joint strengthening techniques.

Nagel is made in the form of a wooden rod with slightly pointed ends from hardwood. If the product will subsequently be painted or varnished, then the outer end of the dowel is recessed and puttied or a blind hole is drilled for the dowel.

Before gluing, the parts are thoroughly dried, the surface is cleaned of dirt, grease and oil stains, dust and roughened with a rasp for better adhesion. Moreover, hardwood parts are glued with a more liquid composition, and soft wood is thicker because it absorbs moisture much better. The surfaces to be glued must be carefully smeared with glue, which significantly increases the strength of the connection. The adhesive layer should not be too thick or too thin. This will significantly degrade the quality of the connection. The adhesive is applied in a uniform, dense, non-breaking layer. For reliable bonding, the product must be kept for at least a day before being subjected to further processing.

For gluing, carpentry or casein glue is used. Joiner's glue is not waterproof and at high humidity, finished products can stick out. Therefore, it is recommended to use casein glue, devoid of this drawback. In addition, casein glue is somewhat cheaper, and the bonding strength is slightly superior to carpentry.

To achieve special strength, the joints of wooden structures are strengthened with nails, screws and bolts. The length of the nail or screw is selected 3–5 mm shorter than the total thickness of the parts to be joined, and when connecting parts of different thicknesses, the length of the fasteners should be 2–4 times the thickness of the thinnest part.

It should be borne in mind that screws and nails screwed or hammered across the fibers hold the parts better.

The part of the bolt that extends beyond the parts to be joined should be slightly larger than the thickness of the nut. Washers are placed under the bolt heads to protect the wood from crushing. The slots of the screw heads are parallel to the wood fibers. It is desirable to place the slots of all screws on one straight line or parallel to each other. Before screwing in thin screws or driving in thin nails, it is recommended to make signal holes with a smaller diameter.

Screw connections are considered the strongest. You need to be careful not to split the tree. For this purpose, screws and nails should not be driven in and driven close to the edge and to each other.

All photos from the article

In this article, we will review what options are available for joining wood products. And there are a great many such methods, from a simple butt joint to the most complex dovetail joint. It is important to remember that not all of them can be done on your own, but the information below will definitely not be superfluous.

Reliable hitch - a guarantee of strength and reliability for any design

Listing the available options

All of them are distinguished by their strength and complexity, for example, the cabinet body is assembled with a seam or butt joint, less often they use a “groove” or “moustache” combination. But for the manufacture of a door frame or panel, the skill of a spike connection is useful.

The following are ways to connect wooden parts.

Joining parts "butt"

Butt alignment is called fixing the edges. For this, fasteners and glue are usually used. But the butt joint is not very reliable, so it should be strengthened, which is not so difficult to do.

It is desirable to strengthen the butt fastener with a metal fastener: corners and self-tapping screws

This method is usually used when assembling the front frame of a cabinet, where strength is not important, since the frame parts are securely attached to the cabinet itself. The joint of wooden structures "butt" is usually reinforced with lamellas or dowels, which are able to combine individual parts during gluing.

Fastening parts "in the mustache"

This combination has some differences from the previous one. When gluing the surface, the parts are beveled at an angle of 45 ° with respect to the axis. The connection of wooden parts "with a mustache" must also be strengthened with the help of additional fasteners.

Note! Typically, this method of combining is used when it is necessary to connect two pieces of molding in the corner.

Strengthening the connection of wood parts

As mentioned above, you can strengthen with the help of ordinary wooden dowels. Nagel fortifications are usually made with the help of two dowels, glued into one and the other end of the crossbar, into vertical posts, into their corresponding sockets. There is a specific instruction for making such connections:

We mark nests for dowels:

1. For a clear markup, it is necessary to attach the parts to be fastened to each other.
2. Draw a line with a pencil, marking the places for the dowels.

1. Continue the line to the edge of each of the blanks, using a square.
2. Drilling sockets for dowels:

• In order for the nest to be located exactly in the middle of the wooden part, it is necessary to use a drilling jig.
• In order for the nest to be of the required depth, it is necessary to use a sleeve for the stopper.

Advice! If you do not have a stop collar, you can replace it by putting a small piece of tape on the drill bit.

1. Gathering details:

• It is necessary to apply glue to the dowel and insert it into the corresponding socket of the first part.
• We connect the parts together.
• We clamp.
• Leave for a while to let the glue dry.

Strengthening the connection with lamellas

If we compare the types of connections of wooden structures, of course, the lamellar combination wins. Let the price of such connections be a little higher, but it is very easy and convenient to work with them.

Lamels are compressed wood in the form of flattened balls. Nests for such balls are cut out using a special lamellar machine. In this case, the hole is obtained in an ideal shape. And due to the fact that the lamellae are slightly shorter than the socket, the alignment of parts during gluing is more accurate. It is very uncomfortable.

Since ancient times, after mastering the tools of labor, a person began to build a dwelling made of wood. Having gone through evolution, a person continues to improve the construction of his home for thousands of years. Of course, modern technologies have simplified construction, given a wide opportunity for imagination, but basic knowledge about the properties of wooden structures is passed from generation to generation. Consider ways to connect wooden parts.

Consider the ways of connecting wooden parts that beginner craftsmen face. These are mainly carpentry joints passed down from generation to generation, these skills have been used for more than one century. Before joining wood, we assume that the wood has already been processed and is ready for use.

The first basic rule that should be followed when joining wooden parts is that a thin part is attached to a thicker one.

The most common ways of joining wood, which will be needed in the construction of household buildings, are of several types.

End connection

This is one of the easiest connection methods (plumbing). With this method, it is necessary to fit the surfaces of the two elements to be joined as closely as possible. The parts are pressed tightly against each other and fastened with nails or screws.

The method is simple, but to obtain the quality of the product, several conditions must be met:

The length of the nails should be such that, having passed through the entire thickness of the first workpiece, they would enter with their sharp end into the base of another part to a depth equal to at least ⅓ of the length of the nail;

Nails should not be located on the same line, and their number should be at least two. That is, one of the nails is displaced from the center line upwards, and the second, on the contrary, downwards;

The thickness of the nails should be such that when they are hammered into the wood, a crack does not appear. Pre-drilling holes will help to avoid cracks in the wood, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to 0.7 of the diameter of the nails;

To obtain a better quality of the connection, the surfaces to be joined must first be well lubricated with glue, and it is better to use a moisture-resistant glue, such as epoxy.

Invoice connection

With this method, two parts are superimposed one on top of the other and fastened with nails, screws or bolts. Wooden blanks, with this method of connection, can be placed in one line or shifted at a certain angle relative to each other. In order for the angle of connection of the workpieces to be rigid, it is necessary to fasten the parts with at least four nails or screws in two rows of two pieces in a row.

If you fasten with only two nails, screws or bolts, then they should be placed diagonally. If the nails will have a through exit through both parts, followed by bending of the protruding ends - this connection method will significantly increase strength. The connection to the invoice does not require a high qualification of the master.

Half tree connection

This method is more complex, it requires already certain skills and a more scrupulous approach to work. For such a connection, in both wooden blanks, wood is sampled to a depth equal to half their thickness, and a width equal to the width of the parts to be joined.

You can connect parts in half a tree at different angles.

It is important to observe the following rule:

So that the sampling angle on both parts is equal, and the width of both samples strictly corresponds to the width of the part. Under these conditions, the parts fit snugly against each other, and their edges will be placed in the same plane. The connection is fastened with nails, screws or bolts, and glue is still used to enhance strength. If necessary, such a connection may be partial. That is, the end of one of the workpieces is cut at a certain angle, and the corresponding sample is made in the other part. Such a connection is used for angular rallying. Both spikes (samples) in this case are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, and the joint between them is located diagonally.

Splicing to length

Such splicing of bars and beams along the length has its own characteristics.

For vertical supports, splicing is simple.

But it’s a completely different matter when a beam or beam at the splicing point is subject to bending or torsion loads, in which case you can’t get by with simple fastening with nails or screws.

The parts to be joined are cut at an angle (into an oblique overlay) and compressed with bolts. The number of bolts depends on the applied loads, but there must be at least two.

Sometimes additional overlays are installed, for example, metal plates, it is better on both sides, top and bottom, for strength, you can additionally fasten with wire.

Cleat

Such a connection is used when laying the floor or for sheathing boards. To do this, a spike is made in the face of one board, and a groove in the other.

With this splicing, gaps between the boards are excluded, and the sheathing itself takes on a beautiful appearance. Appropriately processed lumber enters the distribution network, where they can be purchased ready-made.

An example of such materials is a floorboard or lining.

Connector "socket-thorn"

This is one of the most common joints of wooden parts.

Such a connection will provide a strong, rigid and neat rallying.

It goes without saying that it requires certain skills and accuracy in work from the performer.

When making this connection, you need to remember that a poor-quality spiked connection will not add reliability and will not have a beautiful appearance.

A spike connection consists of a groove hollowed out or drilled in one of the wooden parts, as well as a spike made at the end of another attached element.

The parts must have the same thickness, but if the thickness is different, then the socket is made in the thicker part, and the spike is made in the second, thinner part. The connection is carried out on glue with additional fastening with nails, screws. When driving a screw, remember that pre-drilling will facilitate this process. It is better to hide the head of the screw, and the pilot hole should be ⅔ of the diameter of the screw and be 6 mm less than its length.

One of the very important conditions is the same humidity of the parts to be joined. If the elements to be joined have different moisture content, then when dried, the spike will decrease in size, which will lead to the destruction of the entire connection. That is why the parts to be joined must have the same humidity, close to the operating conditions. For outdoor structures, humidity should be in the range of 30-25%.

The use of wood to decorate buildings.

Choice of wood.

In carving, to perform large crafts with large elements, they often use coniferous wood as the main one. They are available, and the striped texture can be used in ornaments.

As a background for overhead and slotted threads, it is used fir.

The valuable material is cedar, its soft, with a beautiful texture and a pleasant yellow-pink or light pink color of the wood core. The wood is easy to cut, cracks little during shrinkage and is resistant to decay.

Wood pears used for highly artistic carving details, as it is durable and warps little from atmospheric influences.

Poplar, the wood is very soft and light - it is used to make a carved decorative column or background shields for attaching false threads.

It is good to use wood to make chains from round rings. apple trees. This wood is used in small crafts, in applied carvings. In this case, the springy properties of the apple tree are used.

Wood is also used lindens. Very light, well planed, well drilled and polished.

carving from oak difficult to manufacture due to its hardness.

But oak is not afraid of moisture, it does not warp. Products made of natural wood are very beautiful, but they can afford it. Veneering is used to reduce the cost of the product. For example, veneered doors are made, by order of the client, "under the oak". We get beautiful doors, outwardly similar to natural ones, but at a much lower price.

technology lesson

Subject: Types and methods of joining parts in wood products. Corner, middle and drawer stud joints, their elements and design features.

Program section:"Technologies for creating products from wood and ornamental materials based on design and technological documentation."

Class: 7.

Lesson Objectives:

1) Educational: to form knowledge about spiked joints and joints on dowels and dowels.

2) Developing: to help students develop the ability to choose a compound.

3) Educational: to continue the formation of a conscious need for work.

Lesson objectives:

1) Tell students about how to connect parts.

2) Explain and demonstrate the scope of the spike and dowel connection of parts.

3) Explain how the connection is calculated.

Lesson equipment:

1) Material and technical base: Samples of connecting parts with spikes and dowels.

2) Didactic support of the lesson:

Technology grade 7. Tishchenko A.T., Samorodsky A.T., Simonenko V.D. – Bryansk 1996

Teaching methods:

Verbal methods (explanation, conversation);

Visual methods (demonstration of visual aids).

Lesson type: lesson explaining new material.

Lesson structure:

Organizational moments (2 min);

Updating of basic knowledge (6 min);

Presentation of educational material (30 min);

Setting homework (2 min).

During the classes:

1) Organizational moments:

Greeting students;

Student attendance checks;

Setting up students for work;

Message about the topic and purpose of the lesson.

2) Updating of basic knowledge:

Let's remember in what ways you can connect wood parts (screws, nails, bolts, gluing). Where can these types of compounds be found?

3) Presentation of educational material:

The topic of our lesson: “Types and methods of joining parts in wood products. corner, middle and box tenon joints, their elements and design features.

The simplest carpentry connection can be represented as spike-to-socket connection or in the eye(Figure 11). A spike is a protrusion at the end of the bar (Figure 11), a socket is a hole into which the spike enters. Spike joints are divided into corner end, corner middle and corner box.

In the practice of amateur carpenters, there are very often corner end connections. To calculate the elements of the corner end (Figure 13) and corner mid-connections (Figure 14), use the data in Table 4.

Let it be necessary to calculate the connection on the "mustache" with a plug-in through flat spike (UK-11). The thickness of the connected bar is known (let s 0 = 25 mm). Then, taking this size as a basis, we determine the size s 1 . According to table 3, s 1 =0.4 mm, s 0 = 10 mm.

Let's take the UK-8 connection. Let the dowel diameter be 6 mm, then l (we choose the average value - 4d) is 24 mm, and l 1 \u003d 27 mm. The pin connections are made symmetrically to each other and with respect to the plane of the part, therefore, according to (Figure 14, h), the distance from the center of the hole for the lower pin to the center of the hole for the upper pin will be at least 2d, or 12 mm; the same distance from the center of the dowel hole to the end of the part to be joined.

Figure 14 shows the circuits cornermiddle(T-shaped) compounds, for which, when calculating, it is necessary to observe the following main dimensions of spikes and other elements:

In the US-1 and US-2 connections, the use of a double spike is allowed, while

s 1 = 0.2s 0 , (3)

where s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

l 1 = (0.3…0.8) B, (4)

where l 1 - the depth of the spike, in mm;

B is the height of the part, in mm.

l 2 \u003d (0.2 ... 0.3) V 1, (5)

where l 2 - the depth of the spike, in mm;

B 2 - the height of the part, in mm.

In connection US-3

s 1 \u003d 0.4s 0, (6)

where s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

s 2 \u003d 0.5 (s 0 - s 1). (7)

where s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

In connection US-4

s 1 \u003d s 3 \u003d 0.2s 0, (8)

where s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s3 - eye width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

s 2 \u003d 0.5 X [s 0 - (2s 1 + s 3)], (9)

where s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s3 - eye width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

In connection US-5

s 1 \u003d (0.4 ... 0.5) s 0, (10)

where s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

l = (0.3… 0.8)s 0 , (11)

where l is the tenon depth, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

s 2 \u003d 0.5 (s 0 -s 1), (12)

where s2 - eye width, in mm;

s 1 - spike width, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

In connection US-6

l = (0.3… 0.5)s 0 , (13)

where l is the tenon depth, in mm;

s 0 is the width of the part, in mm.

In connection US-7

d \u003d 0.4 at l 1 l by 2 ... 3 mm;

In connection US-8

l \u003d (0.3 ... 0.5) B 1, s 1 \u003d 0.85s 0.

Table 4 - Dimensions of spikes and other elements of the corner end

compounds

Connections

End of table 4

Connections
	l1 l by 2…3 mm
	l1 l by 2…3 mm

Note. Sizes 0 , B and B 1 are known in each specific case.

Often use the method of connecting to a dowel (nagel). A dowel is a cylindrical stick made of birch, oak, etc. It is evenly machined and hammered into pre-drilled holes - channels pre-lubricated with glue. Holes for dowels are made in both parts at once. The dowel should enter the hole tightly, with the help of mallet blows. The drill for preparing the holes must match the size of the dowel. To reduce the diameter of the dowel, grinding with sandpaper or a bastard file is used (risks are made not across, but along the dowel).

At connection selection it is necessary to consider the nature and magnitude of the load, as well as how the connection will resist the load.

a - in the nest; b - in the eye; 1 - spike; 2 - socket, eyelet

Figure 11 - The simplest spiked joints

AT corner box connections spikes are repeated many times. Basically, three types of such connections are used: on a straight open spike (Figure 12, a); open “dovetail” on the spike (Figure 12, e); on an open round plug-in spike - dowel (Figure 12, h).

From a comparison of the resistances of two connections (half-wood with a screw and a dovetail), it can be seen that the connection in the dovetail withstands a load three times greater than the connection in half-wood with a screw. Based on this and a number of other examples, we can draw the following conclusions about the appropriateness of using certain joints: joinery knitting should be selected in accordance with the magnitude and direction of the load on the joint;

a - single; b - double; in - multiple;

g - round; d - "dovetail"; e - one-sided "dovetail"; g, h - serrated.

Figure 12 - Types of spikes

the load must be perceived directly by the product design itself (additional fasteners can be a screw, a metal square, a dowel, etc.); knitting with gaps is not allowed.

Gluing should be done only with prepared surfaces: the rougher, for example, the surface of the dowel, the more reliably it will stick to the array.

a - open through single spike - UK-1; b - on the awl open through double - UK-2; in - on the awl open through triple - UK-3; g - on an awl with a semi-dark through - UK-4; d - on an awl with a semi-dark end-to-end UK-5; e - on an awl with a descendant of non-through - UK-6; g - on a spike with a descendant through - UK-7; h - on spikes round plug-in, non-through and through - UK-8; and - on the "mustache" with a plug-in non-through round spike - UK-9; to - on the "mustache" with a plug-in flat toe spike - UK-10; l - on the "mustache" with a plug-in through flat spike - UK-11.

Figure 13 - Angle End Connections

a - on a single non-through spike - US-1; b - sewed single blind into the groove - US-2; c - on a single through spike - US-3; g - on a double through spike - US-4; d - into the groove and non-through crest - US-5;

e - into the non-through groove - US-6; g - on spikes round plug-in non-through - US-7; h - on the spike "dovetail" blind - US-8.

Figure 14 - Corner center joints

More simple than spiked, but less durable is the connection of wooden parts with dowels (Figure 15). Dowels- these are round inserts inserted into the holes of two connected parts.

The surfaces of the two parts connected by dowels must be precisely fitted to each other, and the holes for the spikes must be drilled exactly opposite each other, i.e. coaxially.

Figure 15 - Connecting parts with dowels

The diameter of the dowel should be 0.4 of the thickness of the parts to be joined. Holes are drilled under the dowels with drills of the same diameter as the dowel diameter to a depth of 0.5 dowel length plus 2 ... 3 mm.

The distance from the end of the part to the center of the dowel hole must be at least two dowel diameters.

The most critical operation is drilling holes for dowels in two parts. The centers of the dowel holes are usually marked with a thickness gauge and a joiner's square. Figure 16 shows the sequence of parts assembly with dowels.

a - markup; b - drilling holes at the end; c - marking, drilling holes on the plate and connecting

Figure 16 - The sequence of assembly of parts with dowels

Before connecting the parts, the dowels are smeared with glue, inserted into the holes and the parts are connected by pressing them for the duration of gluing, for example, with wedges on the lid of the workbench.

Connecting parts with screws in the dowel.

To connect the parts at an angle with screws, a hole is drilled at the end in the wood and a dowel smeared with glue is driven into it (Figure 17). The essence of the connection is that the screws are weakly connected to the end of the part, but firmly screwed into the dowel.

Figure 17 - Connecting parts with screws into the dowel

4) Statement of homework:

Paragraph §7, 8, 9 from the textbook pages 37 - 47, read and answer the control questions in the workbook. Write in a notebook at least three products connected by dowels and tenon joints. Calculate the dimensions of the spike joint for boards with a section: 20 * 100 mm (1 option), 40 * 250 (2 option).

A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts can be divided into three categories according to the field of application (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for splicing/splicing.

Drawer connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and cabinets, frame connections are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing is used to obtain parts with an increased width / length.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
• Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
  After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil.
• Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
• Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
• Repeat the operation for the width.
• Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.

Lumber marking

Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.

All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so as to indicate, for example, that side 1 is connected to end 1.

When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there can be “right” and “left” parts.

Butt joints

These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.

Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a corrugated key on the outside, or with a wooden block fixed on the inside.

Nail / dowel connections

Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), drawer joints (cabinets) or for splicing/joining (panels).

Assembling the dowel joint

1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.

2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.

Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.

3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.

With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.

6. Using an electric drill with a twist drill or a hand drill with a spade bit, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.

7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.

Nagels

The dowel must have a longitudinal groove (now standard dowels are made with longitudinal ribs), through which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.

Use of pins for marking dowels

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.

Using a jig for a dowel connection

The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.

conductor for nail joints

1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.

3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.

4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.

Rallying

To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.

The pin connection is neat and strong.

Flange / mortise connections

A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.

Types of mortise / mortise connections

The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, a quarter corner (corner joint) and a dark/semi-dark corner joint. A corner cut into a rebate and a corner cut into a rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.

Making a cut

1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.

2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.

3. C-clamp the workpiece securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.

Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.

4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.

With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.

6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:

• gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
• screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely through the corner.

The notch connection is strong enough

Tongue and groove connections

This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.

Making a connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.

2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.

3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.

4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.

5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.

Adviсe:

• Tongue and groove type joints can be easily made with a router and an appropriate guide, either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. See p. 35.
• If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.

6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.

7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Half tree connections

Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.

Types of joins in half-tree

There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.

Making a half-tree gusset

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.

2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.

6. Repeat the process on the second part.

7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.

8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Corner joints on the mustache

Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.

Types of corner connections on the mustache

To perform a bevel of the ends in a corner joint, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Making a corner connection

1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.

4. When hand cutting, use a miter box and a backed hacksaw or hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.

Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.

7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.

Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.

8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.

9. To reinforce the corner joint on the mustache, you can glue a wooden block inside the corner if it is not visible. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.

Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting

Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Mustache splicing

When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Cutting connection

Connection with cutting (with cutting, with fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.

1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.

Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.

2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.

With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with an edge to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.

3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Complex profiles

Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

Eyelet connections

Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in the corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of the window frame or where the leg of the table connects to the crossbar).

Eyelet connection types

The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.

Making an eyelet connection

1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.

2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.

4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.

Spike-to-socket connection

Tongue-in-socket joints, or simply tongue-and-groove joints, are used when two pieces are joined at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the nest.

Standard spike-to-socket connection

1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.

2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.

3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.

4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.

5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.

8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.

10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the nest. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same slope.

11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.

Other spike connections

Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.

Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
• A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
• Spike in the dark (steps of the stud on its two sides) - for relatively wide details, such as the lower trim (bar) of the door.

All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike is not visible from the back of the rack. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.

Rallying

Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.

Training

Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:

• If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
• Try not to bundle materials with different sawing methods into one panel.
• Never join boards of different types of wood unless they are properly dried. They will shrink and crack.
• If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
• Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.

Rallying for a smooth fugue

1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.

2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.

4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.

Other payment methods

Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with pins (dowels);
• in a groove and a comb;
• in a quarter.

Bonding and clamping

Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Adhesives

The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large areas dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, it shrinks when setting.

contact adhesive

Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.

hot glue

Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.

Clips for fixation

Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of wood waste between the clamp and the product to avoid denting from applied pressure.

Gluing and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.

Frame assembly

Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, use a mallet to tap the protruding sections through a piece of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.