How to repair a drywall wall. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall repair without a profile and with it - the right technology for sealing seams! Tools and materials

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 6 minutes

Despite the fact that drywall has been used since Soviet times, it has become widespread only in the last two decades. Working with drywall with your own hands is quite within the power of a simple layman with a minimum of building skills, and the scope of this material is extremely wide. It is ideal for leveling walls and ceilings in apartments, erecting all kinds of arches, interior partitions and creating other interior details that give the apartment its individuality.

Drywall is valued by finishers for its undeniable advantages.

• The material is excellent value for money.
• In addition to solving aesthetic problems, it can be used for warming apartments, increasing their sound insulation.
• Under its surface, it is easy to hide not only the unevenness of the wall, but also protruding pipes and communications.
• Working with drywall is not accompanied by as much dust and dirt as, for example, plastering walls or whitewashing the ceiling.
• This finishing material is environmentally friendly, does not conduct electricity and is easy to use.

All these factors determined the widespread use of drywall in repair work.

What is drywall

Before you figure out how to work with drywall, you need to decide on its types. Building material must be selected taking into account the specifics of the room and its microclimate. For convenience, the sheets of material are painted in different colors depending on the type.

• In ordinary rooms with normal humidity, gray drywall is used.

• Fire-resistant sheets marked with the abbreviation GKLO are painted in pink or light purple. They are used when finishing surfaces near stoves and fireplaces.

• The letters GKLV and green color indicate moisture-resistant drywall for bathrooms and kitchens.

• For finishing walls and ceilings in the kitchen, you can also use sheets of dark gray or blue color, which have the designation GKLVO. They combine good moisture resistance with high fire resistance.
• GKLA arched drywall is often used to create curved structures. It has a smaller thickness - 6-7 mm and is very plastic.

The most detailed information about the types of this material and its parameters, as well as its classification according to the new GOST can be found in the article "".

Profiles for drywall installation

Installation of drywall can be carried out in two ways: on glue or on a frame. More often, a frame structure is used, which has only one drawback: a more significant reduction in the internal space of the room. But with its help it is easier to level the walls or ceiling, provide heat and sound insulation of the room, hide communications.

Fastening drywall to a frame made of wooden bars is currently rare, it is much more convenient to use special metal profiles. Their length is standard and is 3 m, and the remaining parameters are indicated in the profile marking. The first number is the width of the profile, and the second is its height.

• The basis of the drywall frame is made up of guide profiles, designated PN or UW. Ceiling or rack profiles are attached to them.
• For fixing suspended ceilings and for wall cladding, guides are used that are marked PNP or UD.
• PP or CD ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides, which are also used when leveling walls, which are subsequently fixed with crabs or anchors. With their help, a frame and jumpers are formed.
• To create walls and partitions, rack profiles are inserted into the rails, denoted by the abbreviation PS or CW.

For curved structures and arches, a special arched profile is used. There is also a corner profile designed to strengthen the outer and inner corners.

In addition, a wide variety of fasteners are produced, thanks to which do-it-yourself drywall work on walls and ceilings turns into an assembly of an exciting designer.

The profiles are attached to the wall and ceiling with the help of U-shaped brackets, self-tapping screws and “quick installation” dowel-nails. To fasten the profiles together, you can use rivets or a cutter (special mounting pliers). There are many parts for fasteners, but with a single do-it-yourself job, most of them will not be required.

Required Tools

The tool that will be needed when installing a drywall structure is best prepared in advance.

• When attaching the profiles to the wall, you will have to drill a lot of holes for the dowels. With a conventional impact drill, this process can turn into a real torment. Therefore, it is better to stock up on a good puncher.
• A screwdriver with a set of interchangeable bits is useful when mounting the frame on a wall or ceiling and fixing drywall sheets.
• You will also need a hammer, metal shears, a screwdriver, a level, a plumb line, a clerical knife and a spatula.

This is a necessary minimum, you can expand the list of tools based on your needs and capabilities.

Sheet cutting

In order to cut a sheet of drywall, you can use a regular clerical knife. With its help, an incision is made along the ruler on one side of the sheet, after which the sheet is easily broken into two parts.

If you want to cut a curved hole, such as an arch, it is better to use a jigsaw. It is necessary to insert a metal file into it and cut at maximum speed.

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To obtain a smooth bend, you can do without incisions. The GKL sheet is attached with one side to the prepared curved frame, the free side is slowly and carefully bent, rounded in the shape of the frame. This job is best done by two people.

Check out the video tutorial that will show you how the pros do it:

With the wet method, the side of the GKL sheet, which will be concave, must be moistened. For a better effect, you can walk on the surface with a spiked roller, and in its absence, with an ordinary fork. Once wet, the sheet can be gently folded into the desired shape. It is best to carefully lay it on the template, wrap it with tape and leave it to dry completely.

Surface preparation

Regardless of the purpose and method of fixing drywall, the surface of the wall or ceiling needs preliminary preparation.

• . It can be paint, wallpaper or fragile plaster.
• Large cracks are primed and sealed with cement mortar.
• The surface is treated with an antiseptic, otherwise mold or fungus may develop under the drywall.

In most cases, this method is used to level the walls. The order of installation work in this case will be as follows:

• On the ceiling, a line is drawn on the inner edge of the drywall sheet. In this case, the distance from the wall cannot be less than the thickness of the profile, that is, 30 mm.
• A UD guide profile is screwed along this line. Its outer border should coincide with our line, and it will be between the wall and the mark.
• Using a plumb line, the same line is drawn on the floor and another UD profile is screwed. If everything is done carefully, then the profiles will be in a single vertical plane.

• Installation of vertical racks. Each sheet of drywall must be screwed to three such racks from the CD profile: one is located in the center of the sheet, and two along the edges. With a standard drywall width of 120 mm, vertical posts must be installed every 60 mm. Adjacent sheets will also be attached to the profiles located at the edges. The verticality of the profiles is checked using a level.
• Racks are fixed with a cutter or self-tapping screws. In order for the frame to become rigid, each rack must be connected to the wall using brackets. They are attached to the wall with dowels in increments of 500–600 mm. In the future, their edges are bent and attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to avoid the curvature of the racks, controlling the level of their verticality.

If the ceiling is leveled with drywall, then anchors are used instead of dowels when fastening. Rough plastic dowels and self-tapping screws can only be used in case of a slight load. Also, when installing the ceiling, wire strands and "butterflies" are used, which are necessary if the distance between the ceiling and the GKL sheet is significant.

• Sheets of drywall are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws 30–35 mm long. The distance between the attachment points should not exceed 20 cm, most often a step of 10–15 cm is chosen.

The caps of the screws must be deepened into the sheet by a few millimeters.

Sealing joints between sheets

When fixing drywall, a gap of 1–2 mm is allowed between adjacent sheets. At the final stage, it is necessary to process these joints so that the drywall surface is ready for fine finishing.

• If there is no factory chamfer on the sheets, then it is necessary to make it with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 degrees.
• This triangular seam is filled with putty, and a sickle mesh is glued on top. It is pressed with a spatula and recessed in putty. The corners are puttied with special perforated corners. You should also not forget to fill with putty all the recesses formed at the screwing points of the screws, otherwise the rust from them will eventually come through the finish.

Repair of plasterboard walls, as well as repair of plasterboard partitions can be divided into two options. The first is the correction of incorrect or poor-quality manufacturing of the partition. The second type of wall repair is the elimination of mechanical damage to the plasterboard walls. For example, sealing holes and holes in drywall.

We will analyze each type of plasterboard wall repair in more detail.

Cracks in the seams of a plasterboard wall

Cracks along the seams of a plasterboard wall are a very common defect that appears on a finished plasterboard wall or partition. Cracks appear if the installation technology of the plasterboard partition has been violated. For example, when installing the frame, they did not lay a soundproof tape between the frame and the base. When plasterboard sheathing, they saved on screws and did not observe the technological step between self-tapping screws. Often cracks appear above and around doors. This means that the frame of the partition above and around the door was not sufficiently reinforced.

But whatever the causes of the defects, they need to be corrected.

If there are not many cracks, then local repairs can be dispensed with. To do this, with a narrow spatula or knife, the crack is expanded (expands and deepens). Then the crack is primed and after the primer dries, it is puttied as many times. Each next layer of putty is applied after the previous one has dried. Moreover, the previous layer is polished with fine emery cloth and primed.

Local repair is not reliable and most likely cracks will appear again. To permanently get rid of this problem, you need to make a global repair of the wall (partition).

• The surface of the wall is primed;
• After the soil has dried, the wall is pasted over with a mounting grid with 1 × 1 mm cells. The grid is fixed on the wall with a layer of putty;
• After drying of this layer, the wall is completely puttied at least 2 times. When the surface becomes even, it is primed for the last time and repainted in two layers.

Closing holes in drywall

Drywall material is fragile and it is quite possible to make a dent or hole on it.

Fixing a dent in drywall

A dent on drywall is embroidered, primed and puttied the required number of times. If the dent is very large, then a sickle is glued between the layers of putty.

Hole sealing

Holes in drywall are patched. There are at least two ways to install a patch. In both methods, first cut a square of drywall around the hole. Attach a sheet of paper to the sawn hole and make a template for it.

Cut out the drywall patch according to the template. Now the task is to fix the patch in the cut hole.

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Method 1

To fix the patch, a wooden block longer than the hole is inserted into the hole. The bar is attached to the wall, from the outside, with self-tapping screws. Now you can put the patch and screw it to the bar.

Method 2

The second method does not require fastening the bar. It is enough to cut off the ends of the hole and the ends of the patch under 45⁰ and stick the patch on the putty mixed with PVA glue.

In conclusion, speaking about the repair of plasterboard walls, I note that the walls should not be repaired, just observe

Ways to repair drywall with varying degrees of damage

Unfortunately, like any other materials, drywall has disadvantages in addition to advantages. One of the main drawbacks, which can sometimes turn into a real problem, is its relative fragility. In other words, drywall, under certain circumstances, is not difficult to damage. What to do if such a nuisance occurs? It's OK! Drywall can be repaired.

How to repair drywall with minor damage

If the damage is small, such as a deep scratch or chip, then drywall repair will be the easiest. To do this, you need to remove the part of the trim that is adjacent to the damaged area, and then get down to business.

Small damage to plasterboard panels is simply covered with putty. And here there are two options. You can use gypsum or a gypsum mixture to repair a plasterboard panel, or you can use a special putty designed specifically for drywall. As for all other types of putty, they should not be used to repair drywall. The fact is that unsuitable material will almost certainly crack after a few weeks and the work will have to be repeated again. To prevent this from happening, you should choose one of the above materials.

Everything is simple. The solution is simply covered with a damaged area, trying to press it as best as possible to ensure perfect adhesion. By the way, if the damage is gathering dust or causes concern for other reasons, it can be pre-impregnated with CT17.

When everything is ready, you need to leave the putty until it dries. Then the putty must be sanded with sandpaper. Do it carefully. The bottom line is to achieve smoothness and hide traces of repair.

How to repair drywall with moderate damage

Drywall damage of medium complexity is a deep crack, a small break (puncture) or depression. It is necessary to repair such damage differently than in the previous version, since it is important here, firstly, to qualitatively level the damage, and secondly, to reinforce it to strengthen it.

So, as in the previous case, it is necessary to choose a puttying solution suitable for the case. First, a very small layer of the solution is applied to the damage. Then a reinforcing material is glued on top of it, which will not allow the solution to crack in the future. As such a reinforcing material, ordinary gauze shows itself well, which the masters advise to fold in half. If we talk about special materials, then you should pay attention to the paint grid.

A second layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing layer, which is pressed with force into the surface in need of repair. They try to perfectly align the solution flush with the drywall surface.

Of course, it will be impossible to achieve the ideal here. However, after the solution dries, it can be sanded with emery and after that the damaged area will be smooth and perfectly even.

How to repair drywall with serious damage

If the drywall panel is strongly pressed through or a large gap has appeared in some place, it makes no sense to putty it. Instead of puttying, you need to make a patch.
The patch, as you might guess, is cut out of the same drywall. This is done in the following way. The damage is completely cut out of the drywall panel.
It is cut into an even rectangle or square. After that, wooden slats are screwed from the inside. They are needed in order to fasten the future patch to them. Next, cut out a patch from a piece of excess drywall and screw it to the rail. Everything is actually easier than it seems.

After the repair is completed, when the patch is in place, it is covered with gauze or masking net, after which it is puttied with high quality. It is advisable to carry out repairs in such a way that no traces of damage remain. That's quite possible. The main thing is to initially tune in to such a result.

What can a modern person learn for himself new about repair? It would seem that there are a lot of TV shows on this topic, and the Internet is rich in information: if you want, use it in your practice, if you want, rejoice for others. Like, they decided, they were not afraid. The first is still more logical if you really want changes in the atmosphere of your apartment, your home. And sometimes there is a desire to break away from the usual circle of worries (work, duties) and do something pleasant. For myself, for my family. So, if you are planning large-scale work in all areas of your home or, for example, drywall wall repair do it yourself(which is not at all uncommon), think carefully. In general, approach with all seriousness.

If the introductory part turned out to be somewhat “without a smile”, then I will talk today about important secrets and tricks that you need to know when repairing the walls with your own hands is started. I propose to start with this: what is drywall? With what, so to speak, do they “eat” this material? I do not argue, the word is quite, as they say, speaking, “two-layer”: cardboard and plaster. A large flat sheet is created from gypsum, and on top it is covered with cardboard. This material came to us from America in the 19th century and it has a fairly serious breadth of application: they make ceilings from it, and partitions, and are also used for wall cladding. For brevity, such sheets are often referred to as GKL.

If you want to use drywall sheets at home, or they are already in the apartment from the very beginning, you need to clearly understand the technology and understand the device.

Let's say you are interested in the option of using drywall for the bathroom. Here you should take into account such an important nuance as high humidity in this room. How will this knowledge help us? Very simple. The plasterboard walls erected by your efforts will need to be additionally lined with moisture-resistant coatings.

If drywall is considered by you as the material with which you plan to sheathe the walls, which are called load-bearing, then I will tell you about two possible ways.

• Option number one: cardboard sheets with gypsum filling are attached directly to the wall surface. Under what conditions would this method be appropriate? In the case when the wall is more even than you can imagine.

• There is another mounting option at number two. It consists in using a special frame. It is recommended to leave a small gap between the wall and the sheets: it will be needed in order to establish communications. This second method, by the way, is ideal for creating all kinds of partitions inside the apartment (and this is often done during redevelopment). When the metal profiles that form the frame are installed, soundproofing material is laid between them, and then the surface is leveled with putty. Thus, neither the screws with which the fastening took place, nor any possible defects will be visible.

Here's something else that came to mind. Sometimes I have heard such a turn of phrase: stretch walls. I hasten to assure you: this is an undesirable word usage. The fact is that such walls do not exist in nature at all, and even more so it is impossible to “stretch” drywall. These two words can only be put side by side in one single case: when a stretch (right here) ceiling is attached to a wall made of plasterboard. By the way, there are as many as three ways of such fastening:

• French. They are used on the condition that the stacked rectangular canvas has small dimensions.

• cam. This method is optimal if the ceiling connected to the drywall is figured.

• Dutch. It is appropriate to talk about this type of fastener, provided that the canvas is either abstract in shape or round.

I won’t go into the details of how these methods work yet, because we are still talking about walls, not ceilings. It's just what is called, by the way.

So what hasn't been said yet? Oh yes: leveling the wall surface with plasterboard. This is a fairly common procedure. You can also stick sheets directly on the walls, you can use the mentioned frame method. Take your pick, as they say.

During the repair, we can also talk about facing with drywall. For example, to create a better surface, for example, in the kitchen. It will be possible to fix all sorts of necessary or decorative accessories on the GKL.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall repair- a process, of course, requiring extreme accuracy and compliance with all technological rules. But, on the other hand, is there a job in the world that can be done well on its own, without due concentration? I personally know nothing about such activities. So roll up your sleeves, take everything you need - and forward to new repair achievements. Good luck!

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At the time of the repair in the room, it is often necessary to finish. This facing material is known for its universal properties: it is strong, fire resistant, has excellent soundproofing properties. The low cost and light weight of this foundation have elevated it to the rank of the most popular building plan brands. Despite a number of excellent qualities, this material has a rather fragile base, which can quickly collapse and undergo changes. In this case, repair of the plasterboard wall is necessary. It is carried out quite easily, and you can do it yourself.

Drywall, unfortunately, is a fragile and fragile material, so punching a hole in it is not difficult.

Causes of defects on the surface

The main reason for the appearance of any kind of flaws on the outer layer is a violation of the rules for interacting with the gypsum base and non-compliance with basic standards.

1. Providing inappropriate conditions for storing material. As a result of a jump in temperature and an increase in humidity, cracks quickly appear on the gypsum base, they quickly destroy the surface.
2. GKL sheets should be stored in the factory on a flat horizontal surface, in a dry place, at normal humidity levels. On the eve of the installation work, the material must be allowed to rest until the base is fully acclimatized. Installation is carried out at an air temperature above 10 degrees, humidity must correspond to 60% or less.

Drywall walls can be significantly damaged due to violations in the installation technology. For example, the use of devices that are not appropriate for this material: fasteners, profiles, putty, backfill.

So, metal-based profiles must be steel, their thickness must correspond to 0.6 mm. This metal, when in contact with air, should prevent the formation of corrosion manifestations on the surface. The reduction of such figures leads to a change in the hardness of the entire structure.

To finish the walls with drywall, special fasteners are used, on which rust does not form. Any of the designs is designed to be fixed by a certain element.

Failure to keep distance. An acceptable distance between parts of drywall sheets will be 57 mm, and the clearance of the floor and enclosing elements is 10 mm.

If there is a desire to hang something on plasterboard walls, special dowels are used for this. Their dimensions must be suitable for the thickness of the coating. Weights with a small mass are hung on gypsum panels using hooks or nails. Massive cabinets or shelves are fastened with plastic dowels or screws.

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Necessary tools for installation

• drill;
• putty knife;
• sealant;
• putty;
• sandpaper;
• Oil paint;
• drywall.

The length of the knife should be 15-30 cm.

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The appearance of cracks at the seams

Such manifestations are associated with non-compliance with technologies in the process of suturing the frame with sheets and making mistakes. However, one of the reasons may be too sharp a temperature drop, for example, in winter.

To get rid of this problem, you need to do the following:

1. The boundaries of the crack are slightly pushed apart in width and depth, a few millimeters will suffice. To do this, take a knife or a nail. In this way, the gap is cleared, after which the material will firmly adhere to the drywall base.
2. Crack priming.
3. Puttying the seams with a special compound. The space should be filled with such a composition tightly, taking into account the fact that the filling substance will sag a little. To do this, take a small spatula or a construction knife. Excess putty must be removed.
4. As soon as the seams dry, it is polished with a fine-grained emery cloth. If necessary, the base is primed and tinted.

Before work, you should outline the perimeter of the workpiece for a future patch.

When carrying out such repairs, putty can be replaced with acrylic. The method of processing seams will be similar. Silicone is not recommended: it has a greasy composition and cannot be painted.

If the cracks occupy a large surface of the sheet, it is carried out using a fiberglass mesh. It is glued to the entire base of the wall with putty for processing GKL seams. The surface is treated with finishing putty. Then grinding and priming of the damaged plane are carried out.

Then comes the elimination of small holes. A good reason that led to damage of this type is the mechanical impact of domestic significance. Such a hole is called a dent or hole.

Wall repair in this case is associated with cutting off the damaged area, its priming and puttying.

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How to get rid of holes of large diameters?

Such a repair takes place in the following form:

Scheme for sealing a hole in a drywall wall: 1 - preparing the overlay, 2 - cutting under the overlay, 3 - installing the overlay, 4 - puttying.

1. The configuration of the defect is being studied. Then, focusing on its contours, a rectangular, triangular or rounded shape is drawn. Using this technique will make it possible to make a template that facilitates further work with a damaged opening.
2. A stencil is made for the hole. It is made in this way: a paper sheet of a given size is applied to the hole against the wall, marking is made, followed by cutting out the part. This template allows you to create a new drywall piece.
3. A small part is taken from the CD profile: its length should be much greater than the width of the hole, the difference is 5-10 cm. If the hole is of considerable size, several profiles must be taken. They are fixed on the other side of the partition, and screwed with screws from the outside.
4. Once the parts are fixed, further repairs can be carried out. To do this, all the boundaries of the wall are cut at an angle of 45 °. Such measures will allow you to securely fix the connection and increase the surface of the joint between putty and plasterboard sheets.
5. Next, the seam along the entire base is glued with a sickle tape. Such measures help to prevent the occurrence of new cracks along the entire seam.
6. As soon as the putty layer is dried, after repairing the area, it is sanded and primed.

To minimize the number of household mechanical impacts on drywall sheets, a double layer of this material should be installed.