What ready-made houses are better. From what and how to build a warm private house. Walls made of aerated concrete blocks
It is believed that in his life a man must plant a tree, raise a son and build a house. Most likely, it is over the third point that you will have to tinker. In this article, we will try to make a rating based on the quality and cost of construction, and make a calculation: what is the best material for building a house, how much can the required amount of materials for construction cost?
Types of residential buildings, their pros and cons
So, in order for what we are building to be that very cozy nest, it is necessary to take care of such qualities as durability, moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, and sound insulation. It is also important to remember about eco-materials and the energy efficiency of your home.
There are two main ways to build a residential building:
- Traditional - implying brickwork;
- Frame - a designer of cottages, divided into blocks. Both technologies are good, so here you should figure out what material is best to build a house for permanent residence. Consider the most popular consumables for the construction of a country or country house.
Brick
Such houses are far from being an innovation, rather a real classic, durable and safe. Good brick is resistant to fire or decay, which means you can be sure that even a large apartment building is really durable. But at the same time, energy-saving qualities leave much to be desired. Alternatively, ceramic blocks can be used. They have the strength of a brick, but at the same time they transmit less heat. However, a high-quality ceramic block will cost more than a brick, plus it is more difficult to find a bricklayer working with this raw material.
Pros of brick:
- High strength;
- Aesthetic leaving: good appearance and the possibility of creating many architectural variations;
- Resistant to high and low temperatures;
- fire safety;
- Environmental friendliness.
Cons of brick:
- Limited opportunities for work in winter;
- Foundation costs;
- It implies the presence of interior decoration of buildings;
- High thermal inertia requires high costs for heating;
Advantages of a ceramic block:
- Good energy saving performance;
- sound absorption;
- Has a low degree of thermal conductivity;
- fire safety;
- Resistance to damage from insects, fungus, mold;
- Environmental friendliness.
Cons of a ceramic block:
- The relative high cost of the material.
- Highly qualified specialists are needed to work with the material;
Foam blocks and aerated concrete
These types of blocks are similar, but there are differences. Aerated concrete is characterized by strong hygroscopicity, so it is necessary to ensure that it does not get wet during construction, since it is problematic to dry it, unlike the foam block. But both of them keep warm and will succumb even to non-professionals who build a house with their own hands. External finishing is reduced to putty with plaster, which has a pleasant effect on the cost of construction. It should be noted that due to their porosity, these blocks are less durable, and cracks are inevitable during bending.
Advantages of aerated concrete:
- Due to its low weight, it does not create problems in transportation and does not impose high requirements on the foundation;
- The highest thermal insulation performance;
- sound absorption;
- It can be used for any kind of construction and finishing works, being exposed to a wide range of mechanical influences;
- Resistance to low temperatures (but lower than that of a brick);
- Resistance to damage from insects, fungus, mold;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Relatively low material cost.
Cons of aerated concrete:
- Brittle structure and rather low strength;
- High degree of thermal conductivity;
- Requires protection from groundwater and moisture penetration.
The advantages of the foam block:
- Due to its low weight, it does not create problems in transportation and does not impose high requirements on the foundation;
- fire safety;
- sound absorption;
- Relatively low cost.
Cons of the foam block:
- Fragile structure, implying special care during transportation;
- Relatively low strength. Often, additional reinforcement of the structures under construction is required;
- The presence of chemical elements in the composition (there are no guarantees in the absence of a negative impact on health);
This inexpensive, and therefore profitable building material can be used during the construction of housing, but today the sale of cinder block has been greatly reduced. The thermal conductivity of such walls is high, so insulation cannot be avoided. And together with a large weight, this makes the cinder block less popular than, for example, expanded clay concrete. The latter, at a low cost, has such pleasant characteristics as strength, low thermal conductivity, and environmental friendliness.
Advantages of cinder block:
- Long service life of the finished building;
- fire safety;
- sound absorption;
- Does not require high qualifications to work with the material;
- Resistance to damage from insects, fungus, mold.
Cons of cinder block:
- Fragile structure, implying special care during transportation;
- Requires protection from groundwater and moisture penetration;
- The hollow type of cinder block will exhibit a low level of sound absorption;
- It implies the presence of external and internal decoration of buildings.
Advantages of expanded clay concrete:
- Due to the high level of vapor permeability, it naturally regulates the humidity in the room;
- Does not require high qualifications to work with the material;
- Relatively low time and labor costs for the construction process;
- sound absorption;
- High degree of thermal conductivity;
- fire safety;
- Relatively low cost;
- Resistance to damage from insects, fungus, mold;
- Environmental friendliness.
Cons of expanded clay concrete:
- Requires additional thermal insulation;
- Weak resistance to low temperatures;
- Requires protection from groundwater and moisture penetration;
- Prone to the formation of cracks and irregularities during machining;
- It implies the presence of external and internal decoration of buildings.
Shell rock blocks
The fact that shell rock blocks are very safe materials means that the required volume will significantly affect the cost of construction, and the blocks themselves are very fragile. However, from the calculation of soundproofing properties and thermal conductivity, it still has a place to be. Some builders use shell rock as an additional layer to help retain heat between a brick wall and a lukewarm one.
Shell rock advantages:
- High strength;
- Long service life of the finished building;
- The ability to protect the air from harmful substances;
- High thermal insulation performance;
- sound absorption;
- Due to the high level of vapor permeability, it naturally regulates the humidity in the room;
- Low thermal inertia reduces heating costs;
- Relatively low cost;
- Environmental friendliness.
Cons of a shell rock:
- The need for additional strengthening during the construction of buildings from 2 floors and above;
- Different sizes of individual blocks (requires additional time and labor, as well as an increased amount of mortar);
- Possible high cost of delivery;
- Requires protection from groundwater and moisture penetration.
Stone house (buta)
When choosing these energy-efficient consumables, be prepared for high fuel consumption during the first “warm-up” in a long period. In the rest of the calculation, the stone house is strong, warm, solid.
Pluses of rubble stone:
- High strength;
- Long service life of the finished building;
- Does not require protection from groundwater and moisture penetration;
- fire safety;
- Resistance to low temperatures;
- Environmental friendliness.
Minuses of rubble stone:
- The relative high cost of the material;
- Financial, time- and labor-intensive construction process;
- Difficulties in transportation due to the large weight;
- Difficulties in masonry;
- Foundation costs.
Houses made of logs
Despite the advantages of building a country house from a bar (low thermal conductivity and cost), it must be remembered that the tree is prone to shrinkage, which means that even a one-story house made of glued beams can change slightly depending on weather conditions. In addition, for building a house from a bar or a tree, there is a risk in case of fire or a malfunction of the electrical wiring, which is eliminated by impregnations (which will increase safety by reducing the environmental friendliness of the tree), to ensure heat retention, the thickness of the wood should be at least 40 cm with a standard of only 25- 30 cm
Beam pros:
- Does not require external and internal decoration of buildings;
- Environmental friendliness.
Bar cons:
- For fire safety purposes, it is necessary to undergo special treatment, which reduces environmental friendliness;
- Difficulties with drying
Composite panels are the best option for those who care about how long it will take to build a residential building. However, for such new, but not entirely ecological panels, you will need to pay well, and think about sound insulation. The fire resistance of such a house is close to that of a wooden one. Therefore, you will have to choose high-quality composite panels so that such savings do not play a cruel joke on you.
Advantages of SIP panels:
- High strength;
- Low degree of thermal conductivity;
- The highest rates of energy saving;
- Minimum costs of finance, time and labor for construction;
- Due to its low weight, it does not create problems in transportation and does not impose high requirements on the foundation;
Cons of SIP panels:
- fire hazard;
- Low sound absorption$
- Tendency to damage from insects, fungus, mold;
- Ambiguity in environmental issues.
Frame type house
Complete our list of panel houses for permanent residence - an innovative and convenient type of construction that requires very little time, at a convenient cost, even if the wall thickness of the frame house is impressive. Frame houses for permanent residence are less durable than brick ones, however, with quality work done, they will last almost as long as “heavy” ones.
Advantages of frame houses:
- Minimum costs of finance, time and labor for construction;
- Low degree of thermal conductivity;
- Due to its low weight, it does not create problems in transportation and does not impose high requirements on the foundation;
- Simplicity in the implementation of interior decoration;
- Environmental friendliness.
Cons of frame houses:
- fire hazard;
- Low level of sound absorption;
- Prone to damage from insects, fungus, mold.
Which house will be warmer?
Calculations and comparisons have shown that houses made of various "heavy" materials used, such as stone, take longer to warm up, but at the same time they have a lower heat transfer. This means that such houses are more suitable for permanent residence. And “light” small houses, like frame or wood, warm up faster and give off heat, so they are better suited as a dacha option.
"Heavy" materials:
- High thermal inertia requires more time to heat the building (but it also cools down longer);
- There is no need for additional insulation;
- Hot in summer;
- More suitable for permanent residence.
"Light" materials:
- Low thermal inertia (heats up quickly, cools down quickly);
- Requires a heater
- Do not heat up in summer;
- More suitable for seasonal living (dachas, cottages).
What materials are environmentally friendly?
The choice of material for building a house is a very responsible task. With proper operation and well-functioning ventilation, any home is not afraid. However, if environmental friendliness is the most necessary or significant factor for you, you must refuse or significantly limit:
- polymers;
- Reinforced concrete;
- polyurethane foam;
- Some other harmful types of building materials.
And give preference to eco-materials that nature has given us.
What is the cheapest way to build a house?
An important factor in construction is how much money will be needed for it. It is difficult to say what is the cheapest material for building a house.
Buildings made of any "light" materials, for example, wooden ones, are cheaper, but if you want a log cabin to stand for a long time, you should not even save on "light" raw materials.
It turns out that it is more profitable to build an expensive modular house for permanent residence than a “heavy” brick one. Therefore, the total calculation of how much you will spend depends not only on natural materials, but also on the layout of the house, on the construction of the foundation of the house, the place available for building, your desires, and budget possibilities.
Comparison table 1
| Brick | aerated concrete | Foam block | cinder block | Expanded clay concrete | |
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. So a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There, too, there are sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of their hands from such a kung, it turns out not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve. Each house expresses the individual taste of the owners. There are lovers of brick walls, someone dreams of a rural five-wall, for some, the construction of a real stone fortress becomes the meaning of their whole life. The choice of materials, that is, what the house is built from, will determine the entire course of construction. The construction of houses made of stone implies an extensive range. The concept of "stone houses" includes buildings made of natural stones, such as shell rock, tuff; ceramic and silicate bricks; gas silicate expanded clay concrete and foam concrete blocks, artificial bricks or stones. The choice of such materials is based on many years of experience in their use and tests, which confirm the protective and strength properties of stone houses. But these buildings also have disadvantages, because living in them necessarily requires some kind of heating system, a reliable foundation for a huge mass of construction. Perforated bricks, expanded clay concrete and wood concrete perfectly reduce the colossal weight of the building. The use of artificial stone is gradually replacing expensive and heavy bricks. Porous inexpensive material is widely used in the construction of low-rise suburban dwellings. Carefully selected building materials will reduce the comfort and durability of the building. The reliability of the stone has been tested for centuries - it was our ancestors who used it to build castles. The most demanded material was and will be brick. For the construction, silicate bricks are used, which are made from lime-sand mixtures, and ceramic ones, made from clay by firing it (with various additives). Silicate bricks are characterized by good resistance to cold and sound insulation, but at the same time the material is afraid of moisture and fire. It is not used in it for the construction of foundations, stoves, etc. Silicate bricks are an excellent material for walls, lintels, but a large amount of it creates the problem of slow heating and cooling, so a good heating and ventilation system is needed in the house. For ordinary ceramic bricks strength, resistance to moisture and wear are typical. It is produced hollow and solid, used in the construction of foundations, walls, partitions, fences. Facing bricks are used to decorate walls and other surfaces. But such a brick requires a high quality adhesive solution. Brick houses have a long service life. Ceramic bricks resist moisture well, but their houses, like all heavy structures, require high-quality heating, ventilation and, possibly, additional facade cladding, since this material often varies in color. So, this material is universal, durable, reliable. And most importantly, it is easy to work with him. Building materials are also made from concrete in the form of wall panels, cinder blocks, foundation and cellular blocks. The latter are divided into and foam concrete blocks, which differ in composition and method of manufacture. Houses made of foam blocks are popular due to their low cost and noticeable ease of construction. These are large bricks, as if stuffed inside with a large number of hollow tubes passing through them. This helps to reduce the weight of products and improve the thermal insulation properties of bricks. In aerated concrete, such pores are of the same size, and in foam concrete they are different. Aerated concrete blocks have high mechanical and physical properties, do not shrink, but are very hygroscopic (unlike foam concrete). Concrete blocks are used in the construction of private houses. Various fillers used in the block casting process change the density and weight of the products. Ashes, gravel, sand are used as fillers. The denser the blocks, the higher the noise protection. Concrete ones do not rot, retain heat perfectly, but they must be installed correctly. Some areas require additional insulation. Therefore, single masonry walls will require the use of a waterproof coating. This cheap material for building a house is characterized by durability, good thermal insulation properties and structural reliability. In addition to tangible savings, the blocks allow the use of hollow tunnels inside products for laying wires and plumbing pipes. Building materials can surprise with another novelty - polystyrene concrete, which has excellent structural and thermal insulation properties. The walls created from these blocks do not need waterproofing and insulation, do not require expensive finishing of the facade. Strength, plasticity, resistance to burning and environmental friendliness of the material make it indispensable in construction. For wooden structures, the characteristic features are the simplicity of construction and a special healthy microclimate, which is created by natural materials. When building houses, glued laminated timber is also used, from which large, environmentally friendly private estates are obtained. today is a very expensive pleasure. The material consists of solid wood and glue, requires professional assistance during laying, but in return provides long-term trouble-free operation and excellent heat-saving qualities. For production, wood with a diameter of 0.18 m to 0.26 m is massively used, which is passed through the machine, peeling off the surface strictly in size. With this treatment, the protective layer often suffers. What are houses built in expensive villages from? Usually, glued and profiled timber, cylindering, frame and panel structures are used. But real, chopped huts, made by carpenters by hand, cannot be found. Here, it is most appropriate to use logs from pine, spruce, larch and other varieties of conifers that are cut by hand. Log cabins are characterized by low thermal conductivity, which allows you to maintain comfortable conditions at any time of the year. The natural self-regulating water absorption of wood and the positive effect of resins have an excellent effect on human health. In such a house, interior decoration is not required at all. Solid wood is prone to rot and burns easily, but good material quality minimizes these effects. Sandwich panels, panel-panel or supporting prefabricated frames, which are filled with mineral insulation or glass wool and sheathed with various materials, are today quite popular construction methods. Houses are built using Finnish, American, Canadian technology, which differ in the types of frame structures and assembly methods. Wood and metal materials for building a frame house are inexpensive, they quickly turn into finished housing, in just two to three months. These lightweight buildings do not need a grandiose foundation; for its construction, simple columnar, tape or columnar ones are usually used. But during construction, it is necessary to pay attention to work aimed at protecting against moisture, insulation and vapor barrier. In areas with a drier climate, it is better to use wood panels; in humid conditions, metal panels and metal profiles are preferable. Frame structures are the best material for building a house because the condition of the soil on the site does not play a big role for them, and the possibility of their exterior design with siding helps to create any facade design. The cost of building such a structure is much lower than the construction of stone or concrete houses. Now they are building in two ways. The use of the so-called wet method involves masonry bonded with a special mortar - this is brick or block masonry, monolithic pouring. The dry method assembles prefabricated structures from various shapes and sizes of elements. The result is housing suitable for various climatic conditions. Heavy houses require more space, while frame houses only need space for future construction and a small area for compactly packed kit elements. Heavy houses can be built according to any project. Including on an individual basis, for which the calculation of materials for building a house will be done in any design organization. Light housing is being built according to ready-made projects of prefabricated structures, which are purchased simultaneously with the construction kit. But an individual project is also possible in this case. True, then the cost of building a building will increase markedly. What conclusion can be drawn from all of the above? Only when you have decided on whether you will have a heavy building or a light prefabricated structure on the site, you can accurately select the materials. What to rely on when choosing what a house is built from in a particular case, we will describe further. When choosing materials for building your own home, you must consider: Features of the climate and the state of the soil. Design and project solution of the house. The presence or absence of inexpensive or special local materials for construction. Mechanical and physical properties of building materials, their prices. Traditionally, in areas with cold winters, they build from solid wood, ceramic bricks, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete blocks. A large number of sunny hot days require, among other things, artificial material - cellular concrete blocks, shell rock, tuff, wood, any materials that can withstand temperature. The construction of grandiose houses takes place using bricks, monolithic concrete casting, natural stone, etc. The choice of materials is related to the structure of the area where the construction will take place. You should also take into account your own financial capabilities, which can significantly affect the duration of the work. The design project also offers certain materials for implementation. If the proposed last ones suit the customer, then it is enough just to purchase them. The choice of material, of course, is associated with many components, but it is worth paying attention to the fact that a house is being built for life, and therefore approach the issue responsibly. If you decide to build a house, you need to carefully consider all the little things. Durability, reliability of the house, comfort and coziness in it depend on the choice of building materials. Consider the climate in which you live, material resources, personal tastes. Here, perhaps, briefly and all. Now you know what the house is built from. This article is useful for those who are looking for the cheapest materials for building a house with their own hands. With the advent of the latest technologies on the market, the owners of summer cottages have a real opportunity to install cheap houses with very good performance characteristics suitable for permanent residence. Nowadays, there are plenty of methods for building economical and reliable housing. We propose to consider in more detail the inexpensive materials used to build houses. When deciding what the walls of housing, its ceilings and the roof will be directly erected from, it is necessary to focus on the relevant features. Place of residence. Climate. In areas with a cool climate, it is preferable to use materials that retain heat well in building a house. In the southern regions, the choice is much wider, which means that it is possible to use completely different innovative materials at an affordable price. Features of the materials used. Of course, houses made of SIP panels either cost less than those made of timber or bricks. Regional market. In wooded areas, wood will serve as the most inexpensive material for a house, and concrete in steppe areas.
Consider in more detail which one is for building a house. Very economical and comfortable housing can be built using materials such as described below. Outcome:
about 2000 rubles, per 1 sq. m, excluding work. It is important to remember that building a house from gas blocks requires a lot of labor costs for workers, so we take into account the payment of specialists, and this is in the region of 1300-1600 rubles. house from wooden beam will cost: Outcome:
1900 rubles, plus wages of workers 1700-1800 rubles. Good for building a small home, designed to relax with family or friends, but not for permanent residence. Outcome:
875 rubles, plus the wages of the construction team 1500-1700 rubles. Having collected all the information about cheap materials for the house with our own hands together, we draw final conclusions based on the cost. Timber houses are the most expensive type of housing. The most acceptable can be considered frame-type houses. But there is one BUT! It's important not to forget. Thicker walls need a well-fortified foundation. Therefore, the final cost of houses will be approximately the same.
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
stone houses
Fake diamond
Brick - a versatile material
Material Features
block house
wooden house
frame houses
What is the best project for building your own home?
What is the best material for building your own home?
Difficulties of choice
Instead of a conclusion
Analysis of the cost of materials
bar
Wood
Calculation of materials for a frame house
Conclusion