Frame-beam ceiling in a private house. We make a ceiling in a frame house with our own hands Installing floor beams in a frame house

Ceilings in a frame house are horizontal surfaces, with the help of which the internal volume of the room is protected from above and below. This is a floor and ceiling fixed on special wooden or concrete structures. They are of great importance, linking the walls together and making the structure of the building more rigid. In addition, these elements create additional insulation of the building: their frame must necessarily contain a heater.

What are the overlaps

There are three types of floors in frame buildings:

• interfloor;
• sexual;
• attic.

Floor coverings must be strong and rigid enough to make the flooring durable. Attic floors are also performed with high quality, since insulation and ceiling trim are attached to them.

At intermediate floors two functions at the same time - to be the floor for the upper floor and the ceiling for the lower one. These floors are subjected to vertical loading, so the beams must be resistant to vertical deflections.

floor structure requirements

Interfloor overlap in a frame house must meet many criteria, but the main requirements are:

1. Rigid and durable construction that can withstand heavy loads.
2. No beam should sag under the influence of gravity.
3. Wooden floors of a frame house must have good sound insulation so that noise and extraneous sounds from one floor do not penetrate to another.
4. It is important to make high-quality insulation. The attic and basement floors should be especially well insulated.
5. All main floor elements must have good fire resistance so that an accidental fire on one floor does not spread to the entire building.
6. You should not make too massive, expensive and huge structures - the overlap device should be as simple and budget as possible.

Floor features

After the construction of the lower level, it is necessary to make a ceiling from the same materials as the frame in order to continue building the next level of the house. It is important that the frame walls are even in a horizontal plane. This will allow you to quickly make the overlap.

In fact, the overlay is the basis for the top level. That is, the overlap of the first floor (the layer between the first and second floors) becomes the floor for the second floor. This means that the structure must be particularly robust. It is better for this, if necessary, to strengthen the logs, because internal non-main walls will be fixed on them.

Sometimes a house project involves the participation of a floor lag in the design of the truss system. This has its drawbacks:

• the thermal insulation layer will decrease significantly, which will lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
• it will be necessary to provide for a complex ventilation system of the under-roof space in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints of the log and rafters;
• when erecting rafters, it will be necessary to build flooring from boards or plywood.

Logs for interfloor floors can be of different thicknesses. So, if no one walks on them, you can put thin boards. If the upper room is residential, the logs should be of large cross section, no less than on the ground floor.

Installation procedure and rules

Even without planning the installation of the ceilings of a frame house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the device and the installation of this important element.

To install interfloor ceilings, you first need to lay around the perimeter of the house strapping of beams, and already fix the logs on it with nails. In the presence of a large span, it is better to make glued beams.

Floor beams have a dual function. On the one hand, a plasterboard ceiling is attached to them, on the other hand, floor logs are stuffed. The thickness of the floor boards must be at least 1/20 of the length. For example, for a span of 4 m, a log with a thickness of 20 cm or more will be required. The floor space is filled with insulation.

Beams are made from thick logs, which are sawn into pieces with a thickness of 70 mm or more. You can also knock together two boards, the thickness of which is 50 mm.

Connect the boards to each other with nails or metal staples. Floor beams have advantages: they have low cost, easy installation, high thermal insulation properties, long service life (up to 50 years).

Wooden beams are a fire hazardous material. This means that they must be treated with refractory impregnations, antifungal compounds and anti-rot agents.

Insulation of floors between floors

Mineral wool has important advantages: natural origin, low thermal conductivity, it is light and non-combustible. Therefore, it is best to use it for insulation of floors. But also for sound and heat insulation, you can use other alternative materials:

• perlite;
• Styrofoam;
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• dry sand;
• sawdust.

Floor materials

It is best to choose softwood. It can be pine, spruce, larch. The main load is on the beams or logs, and then transferred to the walls, strapping and foundation.

For floor beams, a processed round beam with two edges or boards knocked together is used.

The load-bearing beams must be of the appropriate size, depending on the load they will be subjected to, as well as the length of the span. Dimensions can be found in special tables.

Load calculation

Overlappings experience the following types of loads:

• withstand their own weight;
• the mass of the part of the house that is above them;
• variable load from the presence of people and from the installation of furniture and things.

The own weight on average has 150-200 kg per square meter of floor. The specific weight depends on the type of insulation and the thickness of all structural elements. Attic floors have even more weight, since more insulation needs to be installed there.

As for variable loads, their average values ​​are up to 100 kg per 1 sq. m, and sometimes more. To understand the total load, it is necessary to sum the constant and the variable at their maximum values.

Further in the tables they look at the required thickness of the beams, taking into account their length. Beams are installed on the strapping around the perimeter using metal corners. When installing an interfloor or attic floor, it is important to install the beams clearly above the vertical frame racks.

Lining and decking

Having installed the ceiling beams and checking whether their strength is sufficient and whether they are fixed correctly, they begin to install flooring on top of them so that they can be walked on. After that, the ceiling lining is installed from below.

For interfloor floors, it is necessary to select high-quality filing. It must support its own weight, as well as the load of ceiling trim, insulation and all decorative and functional elements that will be attached to it. These are lamps, some elements of furniture, some decorations.

Despite all this, the bearing capacity of the skin should not be too large. For these purposes, in any frame house, some sheet materials are used. For example, it can even be ordinary drywall. Its use is very beneficial, since it not only allows you to make the ceiling as even as possible, but is also a fire-resistant material.

When choosing a lining for floor and ceiling floors, you need to remember that it must withstand a large load, since in these places there is a larger layer of insulation than in the interfloor. In addition, additional elements of the floor structure appear. Therefore, it is already rational to use not ordinary drywall, but a tongue-and-groove board and other similar options.

Rewind device option

Work begins with the fact that specially prepared cranial bars are stuffed to the bottom of the ceiling beams of the ceiling system along the entire length from the side. For this purpose, ordinary wooden slats with a cross section of 30x50 mm are perfect. They are necessary for the installation of overrun shields. They mean sheets of drywall, plywood, other materials or boards that can hold the weight of the insulation.

Rolling is necessary not only for decorative purposes. It holds on itself all structural elements that are not fixed on the floor beams. In addition, this element of the filing also holds the load from below in the form of trim and its decorative parts.

There are two types of flooring that are used in frame houses. The first is draft, the second is running. Only the draft version is used in attics so that they can be easily moved around. Under the running deck is meant the installation of a fine plank floor.

Installation of both rough and finish flooring involves laying boards on beams and fixing them. Thus, the installation of the flooring is the same, but the requirements for the quality of work are different.

By nailing the subfloor boards to the beams, a special gap is made. It is necessary in order for air to circulate through the floor. When nailing the running (or finishing) flooring, the gap is not made, and the boards are joined tightly.

It should be noted that it is not necessary to make continuous flooring in attics that will not be used. To do this, it is enough to fill the boards along certain routes, which will be needed to solve any emergency tasks. For example, to access the roof ridge or the chimney.

Floor pie in frame houses

It doesn’t matter what technologies the frame house was built on and how its project was made, the floors have a roughly similar design and pie. Speaking from the bottom up, then the filing (or reeling) comes first. Then a polyethylene film, glassine, roofing felt or other waterproofing layer is pulled over it.

Next install insulation layer. On the ground floor, it is convenient to use bulk fillers. It can be expanded clay, perlite, furnace slag, and other materials. Between floors, it is optimal to use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, glass wool or other slab and roll insulation.

Insulation is necessary for floor and ceiling ceilings in a frame house. If you need to conduct soundproofing between rooms, do it with acoustic soundproofing wool.

The amount of insulation that will be used to insulate different parts of the frame house can be calculated from the tables.

After installing the insulation or filling it up, if it is loose, you can pour a sand-cement mortar on top to screed the entire structure. This is especially true for attic floors. This is resorted to in order to slow down the destruction of the insulation and to maximize the life of the floor.

Conditions for the durability of floors

In order for the ceilings of the frame building to perform all their functions, it is necessary to keep them in proper conditions, which will maximize the strength of the structure throughout the entire period of its operation. So, it is necessary to exclude entry into the ceiling and the accumulation of dampness and moisture there. It is she who often has the most destructive effect on the tree.

Air in frame houses must circulate both horizontally and vertically. BUT overlaps deprive him of the ability to pass between floors. Therefore, when a temperature difference is observed, condensate appears on them as at the coldest point in contact with air.

If the air does not circulate, the wood begins to get wet, it becomes damp, which leads to rotting of the structure and the rapid spread of mold. Wood easily absorbs moisture and begins to swell. Because of this, the dimensions of the individual structures of the frame house change, which leads to excessive stress.

If this situation continues, the strength of the entire house will begin to suffer, which will lead to rapid wear and forced cessation of operation. And due to the fact that at high humidity fungi will begin to actively develop, this will accelerate the destruction of wooden structures and further reduce the life of the building.

Humidity and dampness most often enter the house due to improperly arranged floor coverings. Occasionally, the attic floor is also the cause. As for interior floors, they are not threatened by excess moisture in the house.

The exceptions are the ceilings in the toilet, bathroom, kitchen. Performing them, they make an additional layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not penetrate into the wooden frame and does not accumulate there.

Video: rules and analysis of interfloor errors

So, installing floors in a frame house is not considered a difficult task. But there are a number of subtleties and technical standards that must be followed. This is necessary in order to make the operation of the house as comfortable and long as possible. All remaining questions are answered in the video.

Reliable overlap in a frame house allows you to expand the architectural possibilities in its design. Choosing a certain type of wooden beams, you can perform with large halls and panoramic windows. "ArtStroy" usually draws up an individual housing project, if the customer needs an unsupported overlap of areas of considerable size. In the proposed video, Andrey Ignatov, the head of the company, talks about one of these facilities.

An example of a layout requiring floor reinforcement

The 10x10 m frame considered in the video was erected in the resort area of ​​​​the Leningrad Region, in the village. Sandy. This one was custom built. Its feature is the presence of a living room measuring 6x10 m, in which it is planned to install a billiard table. This did not allow the use of retaining pillars to cover a large area.

The layout of the first floor of the house with a dedicated billiard room

At first, it was planned to cover the first floor of a frame house using glued beams with a section of 150x250 mm. But, when the designer made a detailed calculation of the entire structure, it was decided to use a different material, because. glued could not withstand a load of 400 kg / m 2. The function of the supports began to be performed by the structures presented in the photo below. They cost the customer more than ordinary boards, but they made it possible to make a reliable ceiling for a room with an area of ​​60 m 2.

For the described object, such structures were used that reinforce the overlap

Ceilings in a frame house and ways to strengthen them

The wooden floor of the frame house is constructed from beams that can accept and evenly distribute the load from the overlying floor and roof over all supports. The correct location of the beams relative to other frame elements and the competent calculation of their dimensions guarantee the strength of the entire structure.

Two-story and have floors that differ only in beams that can withstand different loads.

Reinforced floor construction option

Types of structures and calculation of the load on them

In accordance with the purpose of the overlap are:

• Socle.
• Interfloor.
• Attic.

Basement and attic structures, which will be affected by temperature changes, require enhanced thermal protection. And the interfloor overlap in a frame house structurally consists of the following mandatory elements:

• Beams.
• Filing.
• Insulation.
• Roll forward

During the design, it is discussed with the customer what the floor should be like in a frame house, its pie can be more “layered”.

Multilayer "pie" of interfloor overlapping

No matter how many floors they have, when calculating loads on floors, the following is taken into account:

• The weight of the separating structure itself (lumber, insulation, flooring, etc.).
• Permanent and periodic operational loads (weight of furniture, number of residents and possible guests, etc.)

Calculated according to SNiP 2.01.07-85, wooden beams of structures under construction must withstand the following loads:

• Attic - 150 kg / m 2.
• Interfloor - 350-400 kg / m 2.

If the attic will be used to store materials and things, then the load for the ceiling of the upper floor is increased to 250 kg / m 2

Some ways to strengthen the floors of a frame house

If the overlap of the second floor in a frame house requires beams 3-4 m long, then the choice of material is not difficult. And with a larger span, the unsupported structure must be very carefully calculated and its best option chosen. If you need to block a room with a length of more than 6 m, lumber of running sizes (50X150, 50X200, etc.) cannot be used. It should also be remembered that the type of material also affects the bearing capacity of the beams. According to GOST 8486-86, the 3rd grade can only be used for the construction of small spans.

Consider two solutions for the construction of long floors:

1. Use of beams having different cross sections

You can make beams of different types:

• Rectangular.
• I-beams.
• Boxed.

One of the most reliable materials for the construction of frame houses is an I-beam. It is lightweight and has excellent strength. With its help, the installation of reliable floors is carried out quickly enough.

Good afternoon, dear frame builders!

I did not find a similar topic by searching, so I decided to create it myself.
Often the question flashes on the forum, how to do it, how to block the span what is the length. Sometimes the questioner simply does not have enough experience, sometimes some kind of hint or fresh thought is enough for him, sometimes you need help choosing from several options, sometimes you need to do an educational program and warn a person from dangerous mistakes. All of this is scattered across various topics, and finding a problem like yours is not easy enough.
Let's help each other here on flooring issues, then it will be possible in one place and look at some kind of knowledge base, and ask your question on the overlapping of a frame house.
Minimum information to ask a question:
1) Plan of the house.
2) Span dimensions
3) What will happen at the top - what is the load on the floor
4) What is the difficulty with this overlap, what would you like and why it doesn’t work.

I need help optimizing the floor in a frame house.

Here is the main topic about my construction:
At this stage, UWB is done, I draw a frame project in SketchUp.

Here is the layout:

So far, the frame of the 1st floor has been preliminarily drawn:

The pitch of the racks is 500 (optimized for OSB, since ecowool is used as a heater, inside the drywall will be along a horizontal crate). Yes, and a step of 600 seems to me a bit too much for a 1.5-storey building. I want it to be strong)
Racks of external walls - 150x40, internal - 100x40. I plan to sheathe OSB, so no jibs.

Here is the construction of a typical wall:

Maybe something catches your eye, write.

The plan shows that the house has one problematic place - the living room, span 4900 mm. There is also an opening for the stairs in this room, size 1100x2350 mm.

Task: To make the floor of the first floor, taking into account that there will be a residential attic above, and there will be 40mm screeds on the floor.

Due to the small experience in designing such structures, I did not succeed in solving this problem with a swoop. More precisely, it turned out, and most likely it will work, but I feel that this is not the best option with a huge waste of material:

In the sketch, the walls are marked with red lines, the beams are drawn with blue lines, the yellow square is a retaining pillar that holds the stairs and supports the ceiling.

The step of the beams is 400 mm, the size of the beams is 50x250.
Such a step and size (according to the calculator) is needed to cover a large span in the living room.
But, it is redundant on the other spans.
And, although the stock might not be superfluous, it is difficult to find logs of this size for sawing 50x250 boards in such quantities (at least in our region). Yes, and I didn’t want to bury money anywhere, if it can be done cheaper, and the result will be good.

What outputs do I see:
1) Reformat the floor completely, radically changing the direction of the beams, their sections and pitch, possibly adding additional load-bearing elements. Here I need your help, because so far I don’t have a good option in my head.
2) Change the step of the beams, adjusting it for spans. Then the ends of the bylok will not converge so beautifully in the middle of the house, they will overlap and burst with bridges.
3) Change the height of the beams. Then it is not clear how to make the same floor height on the second floor. In principle, it is possible to replace part of the beams with 200s, and in the places of support, lay flat a board 50 mm thick in order to reach the same height as 250s. Then the breeches will be beautifully sewn up.
4) is there any other option?

Thanks in advance to everyone who cares

One of the most important technological stages in the construction of a frame house is the installation of the floor. The traditional option that best fits into the environment of such a structure is a wooden floor - an environmentally friendly structure that, unlike concrete floors, the frame of the building can withstand without any problems.

Next, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the sequence of flooring in a frame house. Having studied the above recommendations, you will successfully cope with the implementation of the necessary activities on your own, avoiding the need to involve third-party craftsmen and the associated costs.

First of all, you must choose the right wood. In the selection process, consider the climate at the location of the house, the expected intensity of the load on the structure, the available budget, as well as the features of the operation of the room being equipped.

For greater ease of perception, the key criteria for evaluating materials and recommendations for their operation are presented in the form of a table.

Table. The choice of material for flooring in a frame house

To determine the required amount of material, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Additionally, add to the calculated value of the order of 5-10% for the stock. Flooring is most conveniently done using boards with a length of 2 m. If possible, buy elements from the same batch, made and processed under the same conditions. This will ensure that there are no differences in color, texture or other external evaluation criteria for the boards.

The most preferred material for arranging flooring in a frame house is edged tongue and groove board. The main advantage of using this material is that there is no need for finishing grinding, which makes it possible to significantly reduce labor and time costs.

What can be the floor of a wooden house: an overview of existing options

For the arrangement of the flooring, the following materials are most often used:

• parquet;
• glued parquet board. The material costs less than ordinary parquet, without having, at the same time, significant external differences, but slightly inferior in a number of performance characteristics;
• solid parquet board;
• solid wood board.

Preparatory work

The flooring technology in the building under consideration involves the creation of a two-layer structure consisting of a base and directly wooden materials. Traditionally, the flooring is laid on the logs or on top of the floor beams. When choosing a specific method, it is necessary to take into account, first of all, the features of the equipped room and its location.

Before use, all wooden components are impregnated with special antiseptic and flame retardant agents. Be sure to waterproof the base of the future floor structure. Penofol is great for this job. In the absence of a sufficient budget, you can also use plastic wrap.

The procedure for arranging the subfloor in a frame house

Support preparation

If your frame is being built on a columnar foundation, you will not have to perform any additional preparatory measures, with the exception of arranging the waterproofing of the supports (usually roofing material is used for this). In the case of building a house on a different supporting structure, start by arranging the mentioned pillars. At the discretion of the owner, the supports are either built of brick or cast from concrete, taking into account the design height of the future floor. The step of placing the pillars should not exceed 2 m, on average, they adhere to an 80-100-centimeter step.

For example, instructions are given for arranging such supports made of concrete. The procedure is as follows:

• using a drill, holes are prepared in the ground with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of about 100 cm;
• asbestos-cement pipes with a length of about 130 cm and an internal diameter of 100 mm are set into the holes according to the level;
• the space in the pits around the pipes is covered with sand, which is spilled with water and compacted;
• a building mixture prepared from 1 share of cement, 4 shares of sand, about 5 shares of gravel and water is poured into the pipes through a funnel;
• special plates are installed in the pipes to fix the log.

Lag installation

Before mounting the logs, you need to make the bottom harness.

If you don't have it ready yet, follow these steps:

• fix the bottom trim boards on the foundation. Elements are installed on the edge. The most commonly used boards are 15x5 cm in size. If necessary, you can change these indicators to suit the conditions of your situation;
• connect the boards of the inner bottom trim in the corners with screws;
• to the inner boards with screws, attach the boards of the middle part of the lower harness;
• attach the outer boards to the middle boards. Fixation is also performed with screws;
• plan the top of the strapping boards with an electric planer. Make sure the structure is even with a level;
• mark the places for the future installation of the lag;
• armed with an electric jigsaw, make grooves in the strapping for installing a log.

Next, you need to lay the logs. You can use boards or wooden beams with dimensions of 10x5 cm, 15x5 cm or other dimensions for this, focusing on the features of the operation of the premises and the expected level of loads on the floor structure. Logs are fixed using any suitable fasteners: screws, dowels, nails, self-tapping screws, corners, etc.

Attach wooden slats measuring 3x3 cm to the logs (more can be). To do this, you can use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners. The bars will serve as supports for the ends of the boards of the equipped floor. For greater convenience of further laying of the flooring, connect the logs with transverse jumpers from a similar beam / board. Fasten the lintels, maintaining a 125 cm or other step in accordance with the dimensions of the flooring elements used.

Pull the boards of the lower trim with nails, adhering to a checkerboard pattern and 0.5-0.8-meter step.

Important note! Traditionally, in frame construction technology, a subfloor is first equipped, after which walls and partitions are erected. But under certain circumstances or due to personal considerations of the owner, the procedure for performing the mentioned technological measures may change.

Draft flooring device

On top of the previously mentioned support rails with dimensions of 3x3 cm, OSB boards (always with moisture-resistant properties) or sheet plywood are laid. The latter, as a rule, is not attached to the support rails, but directly on top of the log. And if in the case of OSB, no difficulties usually arise, then the installation of plywood flooring must be approached with knowledge of a number of important nuances. Rules and recommendations for the correct laying of plywood flooring are detailed in the following table.

Table. Plywood subfloor rules

A layer of hydrovapor barrier material is laid in the space between the lags. For fixing the film, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler.

Construction work is almost complete. There are only a few final steps to complete, namely:

• lay mineral wool or other selected heat-insulating material in the cells of the floor frame;

  vapor barrier

• lay across the lag boards with a thickness of about 30 mm. Maintain a 40-60 cm step, depending on the thickness of the boards chosen for the installation of the subsequent flooring, and the expected level of loads on the base. To fasten wooden elements, you can use self-tapping screws or any other suitable fastener. Thanks to this additional crate, the necessary ventilation gap will be created;
• lay a tongue-and-groove board 25-35 mm thick or a regular board 40-50 mm thick over the crate;
• arrange the selected finish flooring.

Now you have all the necessary information for self-arranging the floor structure in a frame house. Follow the guidelines you've read and you'll be fine.

Plank floor in a frame house

Successful work!

Video - Floor device in a frame house

Video - How the floor is arranged in a frame house

The North American "platform" gave a start to the life of "Canadian houses" in the form that we know them. It was a certain technology and materials for constructing the floor that became the basis for modern frame houses, while receiving a common noun. However, in Russian conditions, where MZLF and foundations on screw piles are widely used, the main drawback of the "platform" "sharpened" for basement foundations has manifested itself, namely, the difficulty or impossibility of filling the floor with insulation after installation of this type of foundation floor.

It's like here ... If you have a basement foundation, you calmly mounted the "platform", put up the frame, closed the roof, walls, and you can begin to insulate the floor of the foundation of the house, slowly working in dryness and heat, filling the frame with the necessary materials from the side of the basement floor. Now imagine that you have a foundation on screw piles and estimate how difficult and uncomfortable it will be to crawl on your back on the ground, swearing and periodically spitting from mineral insulation. And if you have MZLF? Then you won't be able to do anything at all - unless you block hatches into the underground for each zone of the foundation, which looks like the delirium of a demented mole.

Well, it would seem that you can immediately insulate the "platform", close it with plywood or OSB-3 and enjoy life slowly building walls and partitions on it. However, here in a hurry to spoil everything is such an important factor as precipitation. How long will the insulation covered with a black floor in the frame dry out (and the frame itself too)? And if you have a poorly ventilated basement MZLF? Trouble...

But do not lose heart - there are solutions to this difficult problem! ;)

The first thing that comes to mind is to close the ceiling before the expected rains or simply at the end of the work with a waterproofing film. Well, ordinary cellophane, that is. However, it is one thing when you build a 6x4 bathhouse, and quite another when you put up a residential frame house, say, 9x12. Carrying rolls of film back and forth, gluing the joints and sealing the holes that have formed, solving the issue of waterproofing the junctions with walls and partitions is still a pleasure. It will all get boring very quickly, I assure you.

Okay, maybe then just lay down the film and work on it without removing it? And right on it to mount walls with partitions - ah-ah-ah?!...;) But even here, a practicing builder will notice that in this case it is impossible not only to ensure the waterproofness of the film - there will be a lot of holes, but it will also be extremely inconvenient to move and fix the frames of the assembled walls. In addition, it is also unsafe - moisture on the floor, a cigarette butt, a forgotten self-tapping screw hidden under the film ...

Therefore, many builders use the third option - a modernized "platform" (which some for some reason call "Scandinavian" or "Finnish"), which allows for the insulation of the frame house foundation floor after work has been done to protect the house from precipitation.

The essence of this upgrade is simple:

1. The roof frame is formed. Moreover, in such a way that a reliable support in the form of beams and lintels would be formed under the bearing walls. At the same time, additional beams and lintels (“bridgings”) are shifted inside the perimeter of the ceiling by 20-25 mm (depending on the section of the boards) so that subfloor sheets made of plywood or OSB-3 could rest on the protruding edges. It must be remembered that if you put partitions right away, then your task becomes more complicated - you will have to take the same measures for them as for load-bearing walls. Therefore, I recommend mounting partitions after the formation of the main frame (by the way, this is a common Scandinavian practice).
2. Next, we fill the "pockets" formed in the frame in the places where the walls are mounted with insulation. You can go the expensive way - fill them with heat-insulating foam. It can be difficult - to score with chopped pieces of foam. And you can do it right - fill it with mineral wool and close it with a superdiffusion membrane on top.
3. After that, the floor frame is covered with plywood or OSB-3 according to a temporary scheme - with a small number of screws. At the same time, the black floor sheets are laid in such a way that they do not block the installation sites of future walls. About the necessary gaps between the edges of the sheets of 3-4 mm, I hope you remember? ;)
4. Well, calmly on the mounted black field we assemble the wall frames and put them where necessary.
5. We form the frame of the house, mount the roofing material, siding, after which you can unscrew the black floor sheets and calmly carry out the necessary work to insulate the foundation floor without any fear for its future. Well, then we mount the black floor already tightly, according to SP-31-105-2002. Better - using rubber-based glue;)

You can not read all this long text, but simply poke at the illustrative picture and understand all the simplicity and elegance of this solution. However, the devil is in the details, so it is extremely important to follow the technology and sequence of actions.