The furnace for a bath from a brick of continuous action. Brick oven for a bath. This model of the furnace has become almost universal

I must say that although I am a big fan of the sauna, the baths in which the stoves are built, I really like the way that is described below. Many people love them more, and tolerate them more easily than a sauna (yes, take my wife, for example). Using the method described in the article, a stove was built in the bath and my grandfather - and to be honest, rest after a steam room in such a bath turns out better and you feel better after it. It's probably a matter of tradition anyway.

Types of stones.

Brick bath stoves (otherwise called heaters) are of 2 types: periodic and continuous. Traditional, real Russian baths were heated exclusively with stoves periodical action. Previously, in ancient times, they did not have pipes, and they were heated in a black way - that is, the smoke went along the ceiling of the bath. They began to make stoves with chimneys only from the beginning of the 18th century, and even then they began to heat baths on white, that is, as we do now.

Furnaces Periodic action cannot be heated while you are steaming or washing in a bathhouse, because then smoke will also penetrate into the bathhouse along with the steam from the stove. These stoves are heated for three, five or even more hours before going to the bath. Stones heated by an open fire can heat up to 900 ° C, and the steam from such a stove is given off the way connoisseurs of the steam room love - light, non-burning, dry and easily portable.

Continuous heaters, in which cobblestones are placed in insulated metal containers, have appeared relatively recently. The advantage of such stoves is that they can also be heated during bathing procedures, and the disadvantage is that the stones separated by the walls of the container from an open fire do not warm up above 600 ° C. The steam in such heaters turns out to be “raw”, burning the human body.

Fire fighting measures. When installing a periodic heater, it must be remembered that this design is the most fire hazardous of all household stoves. A ton of cobblestone heated to 900 degrees and three or four tons of brickwork heated to a high temperature represent a great potential hazard. In order to avoid trouble, during the construction of the heater it is necessary to follow the rules of fire safety. True, there are no special rules for heaters.

Moreover, some bans and restrictions have recently been lifted and baths have been built, as anyone pleases - of immense size, two floors, with chambers of stone filling for two tons, etc. And this, in my opinion, is unacceptable.

Features of the design and masonry of the heater.

Kamenka stoves have structural differences from other household stoves. So, they do not provide descending chimneys and, if the stove is large, “unoccupied” space appears to the left and right of the blower. It is advisable to use it for arranging through niche channels in order to store poker, tongs and other utensils in them. They, among other things, increase the heat-releasing surface of the furnace.

In order for the firebox, which is large in heaters, to get enough air to burn firewood, the blower and the blower door must also be of sufficient size.

For a more free flow of air into the firebox, it is better to lay the grate along the blower. But on sale it is difficult to find grates for the entire length (depth) of the blower, so it is often necessary to lay short grates across the blower.

The firebox and the stone filling chamber are lined with fireclay bricks, which are best placed on a mortar (a solution of fireclay clay and fireclay with special additives) with an indent from the outer walls of the furnace of 8-10 mm. The lining will expand from high temperature, but the gap will protect the outer walls of the furnace from cracking. Instead of fireclay (fireclay "groats"), sand should not be used. It breaks down at high temperatures.

The firebox is arranged so that its height from the grate blows up to the laying of the cobblestone is 8-9 rows of masonry (56-63 cm). It is impossible to reduce this distance by bringing the cobblestone closer to the fire for more intense heating of the stones. In this case, the result will be the opposite.

The fact is that when burning wood, the highest temperature is at the top of the flame. At a short distance, the top of the flame will rest against the cobblestones, the flame temperature will drop on them, and the unburned soot will settle on the surfaces of the stones and in the cracks between them.

Laying arches with your own hands.

One of the problems when arranging large heaters is the arrangement of grates on which the stones are located. From the high temperature and gravity of the cobblestone, the grate is constantly deformed and fails. Even railway rails laid instead of grates can be deformed.

In the heater, instead of grates, it is better to make brick arches (or a vault with holes), on which you can put rail sections. This will create a solid foundation for the stone backfill.

Before laying an arch or vault, notches are made on the prepared formwork on the brick beds for better adhesion. Then the brick is rubbed or washed by briefly immersing it in water. It must be remembered that fireclay bricks should not be heavily wetted.

First, the brick is laid without mortar - for "shooting". When laying on a mortar, the bricks are upset by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, and the castle one is upset more carefully. The solution should be of medium density.

After an hour and a half, the formwork must be dismantled, and 3-4 bricks should be placed on the arch. As a result, the arch will receive a prestress in order to withstand the loads from the stone backfill in the future. The mortar in the seams between the bricks of such an arch will be dense and durable, and it will last a long time.

If the folded arch is left on the formwork for a week or longer, due to the large shrinkage of the masonry mortar, the solidity of the masonry will be disturbed (clay mortar has a volumetric shrinkage of up to 5%.) Slits invisible to the eye are formed between the bricks of the arch. The longer the arch remains on the formwork, the weaker it will be.

Stone chamber.

The dimensions of the window for the exit of steam from the stone filling chamber should be such that it is possible, if necessary, to climb through it into the heater to replace cobblestones or grates, as well as for other repairs.

The distance from the rails to the window is made no more than 50 cm (seven rows of masonry). This is due to the fact that the top of the cobblestones should always be at or below the shelf in the steam room. The lower the steam source, the more efficiently it will be used. In addition to the door in the window, it is necessary to install an internal damper. Thanks to her, the wall of the steam room, opposite the window, will heat up less, and heat will be better preserved in the chamber. For more intense heating of the backfill, the walls of the chamber can be lined with sheets of fire-resistant steel. It's expensive and inefficient.

The total height of the chamber is made with the expectation that there are at least four rows between the top of the backfill and the vault (ceilings). At a lower height, it will be difficult to splash water on distant stones. The blocking of the chamber of stone filling is always arranged one or two rows above the lintel of the chamber window. This part of the chamber is a smoke collector - during the kindling of the heater, it will not allow smoke to enter the steam room.

Between the arch and the rows of the main ceiling of the furnace, it is necessary to leave a sedimentary gap in one row of masonry. The gap is also used as a chimney to the chimney, allowing it to be installed on any corner of the furnace.

Orders and sections of the furnace:

1 - smoke damper; 2 - stripes and corners; 3 - railway rails R-70 for laying cobblestone on them; 4 - steel tube 050 mm for additional steam or water heating; 5 - furnace door; 6 - blower door; 7 - grate fireboxes; 8 - cobblestone of volcanic origin; 9 - temperature gaps; 10 - through niches-channels for storing pokers, tongs and other small items; 11 - damper of the steam outlet window; 12 - steam outlet door; 13 - ceiling cutting.

Ceiling section.

The most dangerous place in the steam room in terms of fire is the ceiling around the chimney. So that this place does not heat up unnecessarily, the pipe at the point of passage through the ceiling is placed with thicker walls - with a ceiling cut. For heaters, the wall thickness of the pipe here is 38 cm or 25 cm with additional thermal insulation.

The outer dimensions of the pipe cutting are 76 × 76 cm. But at the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling, a large opening is arranged - 86 × 86 cm. Gaps of 5 cm on each side between the brick and the ceiling material are filled with basalt wool or other fireproof material.

Ordinary brick begins to collapse at a temperature of 700 ° C, so it is better to lay the ceiling cutting from fireclay bricks. For greater decorativeness, some details of the furnace (extension at the bottom, skirt, cutting elements) can be made from bricks that differ from the rest in color.

Materials needed to build a stove

brick red	M200	1000 pcs.
fireclay brick	Sh-8	450 pcs.
Chamotte wedge-shaped brick	Sh-55	80 pcs.
Smoke damper	260×260 mm	1 PC.
Steel corner	65x65x5mm	14 m
Steel strip	50×5 mm	2.5 m
Heat-resistant steel tube	050 mm	1.5m
Railway rail	R-70	2.5 m
Furnace door	280x 250 mm	1 PC.
Blower door	210×250 mm	1 PC.
Grid grates	200×300 mm	6 pcs.
Steam damper	Produce locally	1 PC.
steam outlet door	Produce locally	1 PC.
Chamotte clay		170 kg
fireclay		170 kg
Clay, mountain sand	On demand
Cobblestone of volcanic origin		1t

STOVES FOR THE BATH WITH YOUR HANDS - OPTIONS FROM READERS

We make a stove for a bath from a potbelly stove with our own hands

A bath for a summer resident is not a luxury, but a prime necessity. And if so, she needs a simple, economical and efficient firebox.

Such a " barrel stove» for the bath I made from two metal barrels. As a stove, you need to take a barrel with a capacity of 200 liters, and a second, smaller barrel can be welded to the first and used to heat water. I welded such a barrel with a capacity of 90-100 liters to the stove. But at the same time, he bent one of its walls so that the future water tank would fit well against the wall of the stove.

And in front of the furnace, he cut a hole for a pipe, which he filled with stones to accumulate heat. Cut the pipe to the width of the oven. At one end, he drowned it out and inserted it into the hole in the furnace, and then scalded it along the end. To prevent stones from falling out of the oven, I made a special grate (see fig.).

Then I cut a square hole for the firebox, made a door and a blower. Each summer resident must install the stove in such a way that it is convenient to maintain it and “give it to the park”.

I think that my stove meets such requirements as simplicity, cheapness and reliability. It is especially pleasing that you can go to wash in such a bathhouse literally half an hour after kindling.

Manufacturing

Taking into account the dimensions of the old furnace and the room, he prepared a drawing of a new design (see Fig.). Partially dismantled the old furnace, leaving only a firebox with an afterburner pipe. The cracks in the masonry were covered with clay.

From sheet steel 10 mm thick, according to the drawing, I welded a rectangular box for the heater and a water tank. In the heater, I cut out the necessary openings for the doors on the side of the steam room (photo 1) and washing (photo 2). as well as holes for the afterburner pipe. In the latter, from the side of the steam room, I cut out a rectangular opening and closed it with a door (see photo 1 p. 1).

I installed the finished heater on the firebox, strung it on a pipe, welded the joints from above and below. Installed a chimney on the stove.

I fixed a water tank on the firebox (photo 3). The walls of the washing department adjacent to the stove were sewn up with tin for fire safety purposes.

For better heat supply to the steam room under the doors of the heater, I drilled nine holes d 20 mm (photo 4). I painted the body of the heater and the tank with heat-resistant silver, and whitened the stove.

Tests

When he flooded the stove, the bath measuring 2.3 × 3.3 × 2 m warmed up to readiness in 1.5-2 hours. A 100-liter water tank is heated in the same time to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. To prolong bathing procedures, thanks to a pipe with an afterburner, you can throw firewood at 3 logs per hour.

Furnace Advantages

Three positions for space heating:

A - the doors of the heater in the steam room and in the sink are open - simultaneous heating of two rooms.

The B-door of the heater in the steam room is closed, and in the sink it is open - more heat in the washing compartment. On the contrary, accelerated heating of the steam room.

B - All doors are closed - heat accumulation mode in the heater.

Two firing modes:

A - with a fully open blower door - the fastest heating of the bath.

B-with the door closed - maintaining heat in the bath, for example, in the summer.

The wide window of the heater in the steam section allows you to safely pour water onto hot stones.

Which oven is best?

The main thing in the bath is the stove-heater. Previously, it was built of brick. Now you can just buy a finished metal structure. The main thing is to choose the right one among the many options.

All stoves-heaters are divided into three types according to the type of energy carrier used: wood, electric and gas.

Wood

The minimum formation of smoke and the absence of burning, which means that the procedure for taking a bath will be not only useful, but also safe for health.

All models use special elements that eliminate the risk of burns.

Variety of shapes and colors.

Cheaper electric and gas stoves.

Soot accumulates on the stones and must be cleaned regularly.

Electrical

No need for a chimney.

Eco-friendly. Any contamination is excluded.

They have a temperature control and regulation system.

– High energy consumption of 1 kW/1 sq. m.

Both rooms heat up very quickly.

Able to heat water well. A scheme for passing the chimney through a special tank is used.

- The need for a gas pipeline on the site.

Although metal sauna stoves have been invented for many years, most people still prefer traditional brick ones. Such a choice is due to the fact that it is the “living” material that is able to create the most comfortable level of heat for a person and the optimal amount of steam, as well as give the room a cozy atmosphere.

Peculiarities

The main advantage of brick ovens for baths is a certain vaporization technology, which is achieved due to the unique properties of bricks. A person in the room breathes easily, feels "soft" warmth and enveloping steam, saturated, but not burning. When the metal is heated, infrared radiation occurs, burning oxygen in the steam room and burning the skin. It is not surprising that brick heaters are preferred by people who take care of their health and choose comfort.

Brick construction comes in a variety of sizes and designs., which means it can fit into any bath that demonstrates the individuality of the owner. As a rule, furnaces are built with a base of 3.5 by 4 bricks (89 by 102 centimeters), or 4 by 5 bricks (102 by 129 centimeters). The height without a pipe can be 168 or 210 centimeters. The most popular is the model with a tank for heating water.

Advantages and disadvantages

When giving preference to brick ovens, it must be remembered that they have both certain advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages are the following:

attractive appearance and the ability to fit into any bath interior: both made of wood and brick;
such a furnace will please the owner much longer than an iron one: unlike metal, brick is a material that will not be spoiled by small defects;
no need to carry out additional finishing work;
the emerging steam has a beneficial effect on human health;
the heated brick will not begin to release hazardous chemicals into the air;

a brick oven better maintains a high temperature throughout the bath;
for kindling, fuel is used that is sold on any construction market, as well as the simplest raw materials that do not even have to be bought: sticks, branches, newspapers, dry moss and others;
in a room with a periodic heater, you can steam for 2-3 days, and it will not cool down;
if, after bathing procedures, you simply do not close the door to the steam room, then the oven will dry the bath itself;
the chimney does not require monthly cleaning, unlike a metal firebox.

However, there are also some disadvantages:

the furnace structure itself is quite large, you will either need to initially build a large bath, or you will have to sacrifice some square meters;
if mistakes are made during the assembly process, the oven will not hold the temperature well, and the room will cool down quickly;
brick is a rather expensive material;
the services of a professional stove-maker are also very expensive;

due to the large weight of the stove, a solid foundation will be required, the depth of which should be below the freezing point of the soil, and the foundation for the stove should not be tied to the foundation for the very structure of the bath house;
building a heater is a long-term and labor-intensive task;
to completely melt a bath with a brick oven, it will take a long time, up to 6 hours.

Kinds

There are 4 main variations of sauna stoves:

"in white";
"in black";
"in gray";
with a plate.

Black-fired stoves do not have a chimney, and have been used in villages across the country for decades. All fumes and smoke leave through the steam room itself - in a natural way through the cracks and gaps of the roof. Of course, this is how the best steam and aroma arise in them, and it becomes very pleasant to wash, but at the same time you have to wait until all the firewood burns out. When choosing stoves "in black", it is recommended to treat the inner walls of the bath with a special solution that can prevent the occurrence of soot residues. Black baths have a very high efficiency, and therefore, when using them, you can save on fuel.

Next in complexity are furnaces that are heated "in a gray way". They have a chimney, and therefore the bath warms up much faster. However, you still have to wait until all the fuel has burned out, as soot is deposited on the stones. The walls do not get dirty with soot, but when liquid is applied to the stones, a small amount of soot microparticles appears along with the steam from the furnace. This design can be direct-flow and with channels. In the first case, the stones located above the firebox are on fire, and the gases are released into the air through a pipe, and in the second - through two valves.

Furnaces "in white" warm up the room for up to 12 hours, but do not pollute the stones, therefore they are considered the most environmentally friendly. The process is as follows: the overlapping metal plate is heated from the fuel, and from it the stones, which will store heat for several hours. This method of heating appears to be the most expensive - a large amount of firewood and other materials is consumed. Previously, the box in which the stones were put was made of ordinary black iron, but now it is made of heat-resistant stainless steel. Traditionally, white-baths have two separate spaces: a dressing room and a steam room itself. To warm both rooms, one side of the stove goes into the dressing room.

In the fourth case - with a stove - stones and a water tank, the placement of which can be changed, are heated by two cast-iron stoves. One of them is located above the firebox, and the second - above the chimney. On three sides, the slabs must be protected by a brick screen, which will provide a high temperature of the water. Such furnaces are usually built independently.

According to the type of fuel used, stoves are distinguished:

wood;
melted with coal;
natural gas;
diesel fuel;
wood chip briquettes;
electricity.

According to the type of construction, they are divided into furnaces:

with an open heater (typical for a Finnish sauna);
with a closed heater;
combined.

The heater in the first case is called flowing, and the stove itself is called periodic. In the second case, the heater is direct-flow, and the stove is continuous.

Batch stoves are usually chosen by large families when a lot of people go to wash, but the duration of the steaming process is short. They have thick walls that store heat for a long time and provide the necessary service life of the bath. The smoke passes through the stones before entering the chimney. The volume of stone filling in such a heater is much larger than in permanent heaters.

Bath stoves of constant action have a minimum wall thickness and the volume of stones located in an insulated metal box above the firebox. Their main advantage is the ability to use the steam room during the melting process. Stoves with a closed heater are also safer. Heating is carried out inside the body through the wall, which is common for the heater and the firebox. Stones store heat much longer, and the air in the steam room at the same time has a stable optimum temperature. It will take about 4-5 hours to warm up the air in such a bath.

Separately, it is worth highlighting such a variety as a stone stove-fireplace for a bath. This design has an attractive design, but has a low efficiency. If you install a fire-resistant glass valve, you can protect yourself from flames and enjoy relaxation in a warm room. That is why fireplaces are often installed in the "waiting rooms". Modern technologies make it possible to design mini-heaters. This design quickly warms the bath, but even after the fuel has completely burned out, the heating of the room remains. Its length and width are usually 2 bricks.

Design and style

There are various ways to design brick ovens.

With the help of plaster, you can make relief patterns, or simply create a neat, smooth surface. Paint or decorative plaster is applied over the plaster.
Painting is the easiest option. In this case, it will only be necessary to paint the stove with 1-2 layers of very resistant paint.
If you need some creative and spectacular solution, then you should turn to facing the furnace portal with tiles or stone in a consistent or chaotic manner. In the event that the fireplace is planned to be closed, glass cladding is selected, and the brick itself will serve as decoration. In general, the stove can be lined with natural stone, majolica, unglazed terracotta, clinker tiles and porcelain stoneware.

When thinking about the color for the stove, it is recommended to be based on interior design. For example, the loft style implies artificially aged hand-moulded bricks. For a classic interior in calm, light colors, as a rule, light yellow brick is used. Thanks to modern materials, it is possible to paint the stove in any light.

If there is a desire to decorate a log bath in a Russian rustic style, then it is best to assemble the stove with your own hands. Usually it is tiled or simply plastered and painted white. It is also necessary to take care of the substrate, which can be glass-magnesite sheets or drywall.

Masonry schemes

If it has not happened before to build a heater, then it is recommended not to take it personally for drawing up a drawing, but to find a ready-made order and use it. Currently, various masonry schemes are used, the most complex of which are chosen by professionals, and the simple ones by amateurs. In both cases, the result is satisfactory, and the oven works efficiently. In addition to traditional masonry methods, the ordering of Kuznetsov's bell-type bath stoves is also distinguished. This design takes up much less space.

Initially, the oven is laid out dry in order to draw an ordering plan. It must be remembered that standard schemes are not suitable for all rooms, therefore, for each bath, they must be created individually, making the necessary changes to existing ones. Once you have a clear understanding of how each row is done, it's time to start the main assembly.

Ordering always begins with the foundation of the furnace, the so-called zero row. At this level, the laying is continuous, but a half-window is usually left on the side in order to create additional traction and clean the chimney shaft. At the next level, ligation is carried out - this means that the row is shifted by 30-50% to make the structure stable. If you need halves or quarters of a brick, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond disc. It must be remembered that such elements cannot be located in chimneys, the shafts of which are always assembled from solid bricks, but only inside the structure.

At the third level, a damper usually appears, and the installation of the ash pan door begins. The fourth row indicates the appearance of a soot sampling door. At the sixth stage, as a rule, the shaft is divided into two parts using a jumper, one of which will become the slab shaft. On the twelfth row, one of the mines will be laid, and one main one will remain. Usually, at the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth stage, the masonry of the main structure ends, and then the chimney is laid.

Drawings and projects

The design of a sauna heater differs from traditional designs: it has a special space for heating stones, which allows you to heat the steam room at a high speed. There are two main designs of such a stove: grate and non-grate.

In a grate stove, firewood is placed on a small grate or grate. This device also serves as the bottom of the furnace, and primary air is supplied through it for ignition. Through the holes in the grate, the ash goes down, thus making room for a new portion of fuel. The best material for this element of furnace fittings is cast iron, as it is more stable than steel. Such furnaces have high efficiency, high combustion intensity, and are very easy to maintain.

There are one-piece grates that cannot be disassembled, and typesetting, consisting of several parts. In the first case, when buying a part, you need to focus on the available area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace, and in the second, you can assemble an element of the required size yourself. Steel grates are produced by chain or pipe. Steel are tiled, basket, beam and movable.

The grate-less furnace is also called hearth. Firewood is placed on a sub-deaf floor, on which it is also possible to cook and bake, and air is supplied through the firebox door. In such furnaces, “top burning of fuel” occurs, when the front spreads from the upper layers of the bookmark to the lower ones as it burns, which is considered a more environmentally friendly way. For such stoves, only wood materials are used: firewood and briquettes.

Some craftsmen assemble stoves "by eye", since they believe that both the assembly of a brick oven and the iron lining are so simple that preliminary calculations are not needed for them. However, it is better to make preliminary calculations. Both the thermal regime and the amount of steam in the room depend on the correct design. Otherwise, it may happen that the air heats up very quickly, and the stones remain cold.

The parameters are calculated based on the dimensions of the room: length, height and width. The power of the furnace is also calculated depending on the volume of the steam room: 1 kilowatt of energy is required for each cubic meter.

How to do it yourself?

To independently fold a standard oven, the first step is to choose the right brick. The material must be very strong, capable of withstanding high temperatures and possessing refractory properties. The best option is considered to be a pale yellow brick based on refractory fireclay clay. It should be borne in mind that it is an expensive material, therefore, when building a home-made furnace, it is supplemented with solid red brick. For example, fireclay bricks are used for fragments that are subjected to the most intense heating, and for lining external walls, smoke circulations and decorative elements, a red hollow brand M with a number from 75 to 150 is used.

When choosing a brick, you should follow a few simple rules:

When struck with a pick or hammer on a quality brick, a sonorous and clear sound will be heard;
The brick must meet the standard parameters: 250 by 120 by 65 millimeters;
A quality material has no pronounced damage and defects, with the exception of filiform cracks and grooves;
If a brick has a "micaceous" film, this indicates a marriage.

To build a brick oven, you will need knowledge of block laying and compliance with a single order. First of all, a waterproofing layer is installed in the base of reinforced concrete in order to cool the foundation. At the same stage, an under-furnace for storing inventory is formed. Then the preparation of clay and sand begins to connect the elements, because cement is not suitable in this situation. The clay is thoroughly cleaned of stones and impurities beforehand and soaked for several days. It is recommended to take samples mined at a depth of 150 centimeters below the surface of the earth. Quarry or river sand is carefully sieved for pebbles or pieces of pebbles. After that, the clay must be stirred, diluted with clean water without a musty smell and combined with sand prepared in the same way.

When using clay with a high fat content, it is recommended to dilute it with sand in proportions of 1: 2. To check whether the mixture is correct, you must use a wooden stick. It is dipped into the solution, and if the resulting layer has a thickness of 2 millimeters, then you can get to work. Experts also recommend giving preference to the clay underlying the selected brick, that is, either red or fireclay.

At the next stage, it will be necessary to lay out brick blocks. As a rule, this will require ordering, a square, pliers, a broom with a scoop and an emery wheel. Each brick is pre-immersed in water to ensure that all air bubbles are removed from the pores and that dehydration of the mortar is prevented. Fireclay bricks are not recommended to be immersed in liquid for a long time, a few seconds are enough to remove dust. Masonry starts from the corner. The first row is laid on a dry foundation, without applying a sand-clay mixture.

At some point, a water tank is also installed., plates, and, if necessary, a grate, as well as fixing the doors. Regardless of the method of laying, the key parts remain the same: a refractory brick firebox, a chimney, a water tank and an ash pan consisting of a cast-iron stove, a firebox and an understove. Drying of the sauna stove takes place within 4-5 days with open windows in the room. After this period, you can begin to heat it with small chips once a day, for a maximum of 10-15 minutes. While the condensate continues to rise to the surface, the furnace is not yet ready for full operation. If desired, after that, you can also carry out finishing, for example, tiling with tiles.

When constructing a stone oven, the following rules must be taken into account:

leave at least 50 centimeters between the stove cover and flammable structures;
more than 1 decimeter should remain between the brick chimney and the wooden parts of the bath;
a gap will appear between the smoke channel and the roof, which must be covered with a metal plate, for example, made of galvanized steel;
the floor in front of the base of the stove is also covered with a metal plate about 10 millimeters thick, it will prevent sparks and coal from getting on a flammable surface;
the weight of the furnace together with the pipe, but without the foundation, should not exceed 750 kilograms;
before laying, all bricks are carefully sorted, products of the same thickness are selected to get even seams - the best samples are for smoke channels and fireboxes;
the stove is recommended to be built near the wall, which is opposite to the shelves in the steam room.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Decorative eye-catching finishes for beautiful and stylish stoves.

A massive wall-length stove-heater will become a bright accent of the steam room. It can be decorated with tile inserts, finished with stone and original brickwork. The rest of the interior details, including basins with ladles, are made of light wood. Brooms are an organic accessory.

If you want to design a high-tech bath, you need to use a concise small heater, possibly a mini one, and shiny metal sheets in the interior. The latter can also act as protection for wooden walls.

Orders of ovens | №3 (53) "2011

When creating this design, which it would be more correct to call a combined-action sauna stove, the fact was taken into account that the use of classical varieties of this device entails a number of inconveniences. Firstly, you can start taking bath procedures only after the fuel has completely burned out or the forced removal of flaming firewood in order to avoid the possible intoxication of people in the steam room. Because of this, the temperature in the stove drops significantly. Secondly, the time during which the bath remains usable is limited by the heat capacity of the furnace. And thirdly, the stone backfill needs to be pre-cleaned from soot deposits, which is achieved by “steaming” with the subsequent removal of the soot steam cloud from the room.

The proposed turbocharged sauna stove successfully solves the first two problems and, for the most part, eliminates the third. The main structural elements are auger-type valves that hermetically close the heater after preparation for bathing procedures and let smoke into the bypass channel, and a fan that ensures the operation of the forced turbocharging system. Along with the presence of additional smoke vents, which make it possible to effectively use the secondary heat of flue gases, this approach allows you to speed up the heating of the steam room and increase the temperature in it, as well as create a more gentle operation of the furnace with significant savings in firewood. In addition, a heat exchanger (thermal register) is installed in the furnace part, which serves to heat water before it is supplied through a tap to the stone backfill.

When igniting firewood in the firebox, valves 1, 4 and 5 should be opened, and when the combustion mode has been established, valve 4 must be closed. When the steam room is ready to receive procedures, the stove is switched to idle mode, for which it will be necessary to close valve 1 and open valve 2. After that, with the heater door closed and valve 4 open, the user must clean the stone backfill from soot deposits by briefly opening the hot water tap . Next, the valve 4 closes, completely isolating the stones from the flow of flue gases that will pass through the bypass channel, nevertheless continuing to heat the bath room. When the temperature in the steam room drops, it is enough to reconnect the tank with stone backfill to the system of existing smoke exhausts by opening valves 1, 3 and 5 while valve 4 is closed.

The furnace part of the furnace is lined with refractory bricks, and the gap between the outer walls of the furnace and the inner surface of the main structure is 5–7 mm. The necessary tightness of the masonry and the places of fastening of metal parts is achieved due to superstrength - silica fiber, which can withstand temperatures up to 1200 ° C.

materials

Solid brick M-200 red - 540 pcs.
Refractory brick - 124 pcs.
Metal strip (width 30–50 mm, thickness 3–5 mm) - 14.4 running meters.
Superpower - 1 m²
Backfill stone - 120–140 kg

Furnace appliances

Cleaning door - 2 pcs.
Furnace door 210 x 250 - 1 pc.
Heater door 280 x 250 - 1 pc.
Blower door 250 x 130 - 1 pc.
Stove valve 130 x 260 - 1 pc.
Fireplace valve 260 x 260 - 3 pcs.
Grate grate 380 x 240 - 3 pcs.
Air register (according to the drawing) - 1 pc.
Water register (according to the drawing) - 1 pc.
Water sprayer (according to the drawing) - 1 pc.

Intermittent stoves

Periodic stoves are most suitable for a family bath, when the duration of the steaming process is short. They differ in greater (by about 30%), compared with the above options, efficiency, less preparation time for the bath process, since the hot gases passing through the stone backfill heat up much faster and stronger.

Fig.99. The design of the heater-barrel:
1 firebox; 2-cast iron plate; 3-stone backfill;
4-chimney.

The temperature of the stone backfill in its lower layers can reach 1000°C, and in the upper layers - *>90-600°C. This temperature is quite enough for the soot particles that have settled on the stones to burn out. Therefore, the atmosphere of the steam room is not polluted. In baths that are not equipped with hot water supply, it is possible to embed special registers for heating water. An example of such a heat-intensive stove, designed for a bath for 4-5 people, is a stove designed by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (Fig. 100 and 101), and in Fig. 102, 103, 104, 105 is presented pleased with the masonry of that stove.

To build a furnace you will need:
- Red brick - 1240 pcs.
- Refractory brick - 250 pcs.
- Common clay - 0.35 m3
- Clay refractory with fireclay -120 kg
- Ravine sand - 0.17 m3
- Coil (register) from steel pipes - 1 piece
- Furnace door 400X300 mm -1 pc.
- Blower door 200X140 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning door 130X130 mm - 1 pc.
- Steam door 430X360 mm - 1 pc.
- Smoke damper 290X250 mm -1 pc.
-Grate 430X250 mm -1 pc.
- Steel strip 500X30 mm - 0.75 m
- Corner 50X50X3 mm - 0.75 m

The stove consists of a firebox for firewood and a closed chamber, on the bottom of which a stone backfill is laid. Flue gases, having passed through the stone backfill, enter two downcomers located on the side and are removed through the chimney into the atmosphere. A coil is located in the upper part of the firebox, some water is supplied by gravity from the tank. When heated, hot water enters the container through the pipe, from the lower part of which colder water moves to the coil. Thus, with the help of natural circulation, the amount of water necessary for washing is heated during the heating of the furnace.

Rice. 100 Construction heater
L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarina:
A-general view of the furnace and water supply scheme; B-design of a coil for heating water;
1-furnace, 2-coil; Z-water taps for cold and hot water; 4-bench; 5-tank with cold water, 6-tank with hot water; 7-furnace compartment: 8-hole door 20x14 cm; 9-additional blower door

Rice. 101. Stove-heater of periodic action Korobanova L.A. and Samarina N.I. (projections).

Rice. 102. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (beginning).

Rice. 103. Ordering the furnace L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (10-17 rows).

Rice. 104. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (18 25 rows).

Rice. 105. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (26-34 rows).

A fairly simple construction of a metal batch furnace is shown in Figure 106. This design does not provide for a hot water tank, but if necessary, it can be built in. In a metal case with doors, grate bars are laid on the shelves made of angle steel, forming the bottom of the firebox. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the firebox is lined with refractory bricks. The bottom of the stone filling chamber is a steel grate laid on the brick lining of the firebox. If there is a need to heat water, then a metal container with water is installed on the cover of the stone filling chamber. Flue gases, passing through the stone backfill and washing the lid, go through the pipe into the atmosphere. Thus, both the stone backfill and the water container installed on the lid are warmed up.

A metal stove can also be with a hot water tank. The simplest design of such a furnace is shown in Figure 107. The furnace casing with a size of 70X70X170 mm is welded from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm (since thinner sheet steel will burn out quickly). The height of the oven is divided into three zones: the lower one serves as a furnace, the middle one - as a heater, the upper one is for heating water. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the zone of the firebox and stone filling is lined with red brick laid on edge. The bottom of the stone backfill can be a powerful grate or steel grate that can withstand the weight of the stone backfill. Water in a container with a lid is heated by flue gases passing through a steel chimney.

Rice. 106. Metal heater of periodic action:
1-case; 2.3 doors; 4-shelf; 5-grate grates; 6-plate; 7-bricks; 8-stones; 9-cover; 10-grid.

Rice. 107. Stove with a tank for heating water:
1 - brickwork; 2-metal case; 3-chimney; 4- water tank; 5-heater; 6-metal grille; 7-furnace.

The bulk of the flue gas heat is taken away by stone filling, so the water in the tank is not brought to a boil. Steam is obtained by pouring hot water over the heater through a 200X200 mm door located on the side of the stone backfill. The design of the furnace is so simple that it can be made at home, subject to the skill of welding and the availability of the necessary equipment. Fig. 108 shows a furnace with a hot water tank designed by P. M. Lysenko, the principle of operation of which is similar to that described above.

The original design of the stove-heater was built for his bath with a steam room 2X2 m B.I. Ivanov. The old one, which has served its time, was chosen as the basis of the furnace. a wood-burning column for heating water (Fig. 109 and 110). Having cut off the top (by 250-300 mm) and the bottom at the column, the central pipe is removed. In the cut off upper part, a hole is cut out for the stove door measuring 65X150 mm, a door is made of roofing iron and put in its place so that it can be removed during the operation of the stove. The column is adjusted to the height of the steam room so that its upper part can be removed if necessary. A powerful metal grate is installed above the firebox, capable of withstanding the high temperature and the severity of the stone backfill. The column is installed in place, filled with stone and connected to the chimney. A smoke damper is installed between the column and the chimney so that the stove cools down more slowly. When installing the heater, make sure that the door for the stone filling is located in such a way as to prevent burns of the steamer when watering the heater with water. The steam jet should exit in the direction opposite to the steam room. The removable top of the heater will allow you to periodically remove the stones for inspection, cleaning and replacement.

A metal stove-heater of periodic action designed by P.I. Mikhailov (Fig. 111) provides for the option of removing flue gases when the bath is already heated, and the firewood has not yet burned out. To do this, the designer laid an additional chimney, which is closed during the heating of the bath and opens only when the bath is heated and the main valve closes. This is done so that in the process of burning out the wood, the flue gases, which no longer have a high temperature, do not cool the stones of the heater.

Rice. 108. The stove for a bath with a tank P.M. Lysenko:
1-Chimney with a diameter of 120 ... 150 mm; 2-brick pipe; 3-
valve; 4-platform size 300x300 mm for a brick pipe; 5- tank for hot water; 6-ring made of steel strip; 7-pin faucet with latch; 11-blew; 12-window; 13-tank cover; 14-lid with handle; 15-steel circle to the tank; 16-lattice of reinforcing bars; 17-plate with a thickness of 12 ... 15 mm; 18-eye; 19-furnace grate.

Rice. 109. Interior of the stove-heater B.I. Ivanov.

Rice. 110. Section of the stove-heater designed by B.I. Ivanov:
1-furnace with the top casing; 2-setting ring; 3-grate; 4- shortened column body; 5-stones; 6-upper part of the column: 7- door of the heater; 8-pipe valve; 9-bath ceiling; 10-top and bottom metal rings (roofing steel); 11-sealing asbestos cord; 12-exhaust pipe (steel;; 13-mineral wool; 14- nails.

Together with the flue gases, carbon monoxide also escapes, which, when the main valve is closed, can enter the steam room. Such a constructive solution allows you to keep the temperature of the stones and not to remove the coals from the oven before steaming.

Rice. 111. Furnace-heater designed by P.I.Mikhailov: 1-furnace; 2-heater; 3-pipe, 4-blower

The design of the furnace is very simple and consists of a furnace, a heater, a main and an additional pipe. The furnace was welded from sheet steel with a thickness of 4-5 mm, since with a smaller thickness the steel of the furnace will quickly burn out. A small blower is welded separately under the firebox, which is separated from the firebox by a grate. Cast iron grate will last longer, as it is not so exposed to high temperatures. A grate is also installed between the heater and the firebox, which is able to withstand the high temperature and the weight of the stone backfill. The walls of the chamber of a stone clock can be made of thinner steel, but in any case, its thickness should not be less than 3 mm.

Long-lasting stoves Long-lasting stoves don't have to be heat-intensive. The fire in the stove is maintained during the bath procedures, so the heater is constantly heated. Such stoves do not require a large mass of stone filling and are most often used in the construction of family baths. The difference between long-acting stoves and heat-intensive stoves lies in the openly located heater. To maintain the required parameters of the steam-air environment, there is no need to open the doors. An open heater heats up the space of the steam room quite strongly at a lower temperature of the stone backfill. Typically, the temperature of the stone filling in long-term furnaces does not exceed 350-450°C and is controlled by spraying the stones with hot water. The water quickly evaporates with a characteristic hissing sound, covering the body of the bathers in a sultry steam. An open heater heats up the steam room faster, bringing the temperature up to 100°C or more. Therefore, long-term stoves are preferred by lovers of a dry-air bath (sauna) or a Russian bath with low humidity and high air temperature.

When designing long-acting heaters, craftsmen show miracles of ingenuity and resourcefulness. But the principle of operation of such furnaces ultimately comes down to one thing: flue gases wash the bottom and walls of the stone filling chamber, and, heating them, go into the atmosphere. Stone backfill is in direct contact with the air of the steam room and heats it up to the required temperature. The temperature drop caused by air heating and water evaporation during the formation of steam is compensated by the process of fuel combustion in the furnace.

The most commonly used design of a long-term stove, made of 4 mm thick steel sheets, is shown in Fig. 112. The design of the furnace is very simple. If it is necessary to heat the water for washing, the tank is attached to one of the side or rear walls of the furnace.

The original design of a long-acting stove-heater was installed in his bathhouse by V. Kondratiev (Fig. 113). The difference between this furnace and the previously considered options is the presence of air registers that allow you to collect maximum heat from the furnace. The registers are ordinary pipes with a diameter of 40 mm, built into the furnace body. The air heated in the pipes quickly warms up the steam room to the required temperature. In addition, the registers take on a lot of heat and reduce thermal radiation from the furnace walls. For better heat accumulation in the furnace, its walls are lined with bricks laid on edge. Cold air enters the register pipes from below the floor and, after warming up, exits through the upper openings.

Contrary to the existing opinion that long-acting stoves are best made of metal, original designs of brick stoves have been created that not only heat the steam room, but also adjacent rooms (rest room, shower room). A striking example of such ingenuity is the design of the stove-heater, shown below.

Rice. 112. Continuous oven.
1-blew; 2-furnace body; 3-furnace space; 4-lattice; 5-stones; 6-chimney.

Rice. 113. The device of the furnace with air "registers":
1-heater; 2-hole for a pipe supplying water to the heater; 3-"register"; 4-pipe heat exchanger.

Stove-heater with a lower location of the water tank

This stove differs from the previous ones in that it has a stone chamber with a volume of 50 liters, a large firebox and an additional lower damper to ensure the kindling process. The water tank located at the bottom makes it easier i to fill it with cold water and then draw hot water. The peculiarity of the tank is that it enters the body of the bath at the end, which speeds up the process of heating water. From below and from the sides, the tank is heated by hot flashes from the firebox.

Rice. 114. Optimal placement of the stove with a lower water tank

The optimal placement of the furnace in the bath is shown in Fig. 114.

For laying the proposed furnace, you will need 230 pieces of bricks and a steel sheet measuring 270x270x5 mm. The sheet is needed in order to cover the top of the tank. Otherwise, the bricks (upper rows) will fall on the tank body, which will lead to its deformation.

A feature of this furnace is that when the lower damper is open, the flue gases bypass the lower chimneys and rush directly into the chimney. Therefore, the lower damper should be closed immediately after the stove is kindled, but only when stable combustion is established.

During the laying process, you will need another piece of roofing steel measuring 270x270 mm., Which will need to be placed on the 18th row of the ceiling (upper wall) of the furnace. The appearance of the furnace, projections and ordering of the masonry are shown in fig. 115,116,117, 118.

Rice. 115. Heater stove with bottom tank placement
1-door blower; 2-door firebox; 3-lower damper; 4-tank; 5-top damper; 6-cleaning; 7-slab with stones.

Types of KEMbN (Zh "Brick bath stoves (heaters) come in two widows: periodic and continuous action. Traditional Russian baths were heated by dry stoves of periodic action 8 in the old days they were without chimneys and fired" in black. With chimneys, stoves began they began to build only sXIII ekaibani baths “in white”.

Periodic heaters cannot be heated during bathing procedures. Together with the steam from the heater, smoke will also enter the room. Such stoves are heated for five to seven hours or even more before bathing procedures. Cobblestones, heated by an open fire, heat up to 900C. and the steam from the heater is “dry”, curative and easily tolerable.

Continuous heaters, in which cobblestones are placed in insulated metaptme containers. appeared relatively recently. The advantage of such stoves is that it is possible to drown during bath procedures, and the other thing is that the stones separated by the walls of the container from an open fire. they do not warm up above KO C Heat in such heaters it turns out - raw, burning the human body.

Fire fighting measures. When installing a periodic heater, it must be remembered that this design is the most fire hazardous of all household stoves. A ton of cobblestone heated to 90C-C and three to four tons of brickwork heated to a high temperature represent a great potential hazard. In order to avoid trouble, during the construction of the heater it is necessary to follow the rules of fire safety. True, there are no special rules for heaters. Moreover, some prohibitions and restrictions have recently been lifted and baths have been built, as anyone pleases - of immense size, two floors, with two-ton stone filling chambers, etc. And this, in my opinion, is unacceptable.

Features of the design and masonry of the heater. Kamenka stoves have structural differences from other household stoves. So, they do not provide descending chimneys and. if the stove is large, an unoccupied space appears to the left and right of the blower. It is advisable to use it for arranging through niche channels in order to store poker, tongs and other utensils in them. They, among other things, increase the heat-releasing surface of the furnace.

In order for the firebox, which is made large in heaters, to receive enough air to burn firewood, the blower and the blower door must also be of sufficient size.

For a more free flow of air into the firebox, it is better to lay the grate along the blower. But it is difficult to find grates for the entire length (depth) of the blower, so it is often necessary to lay short grates across the blower.

The firebox and the stone filling chamber are lined with fireclay bricks, which are best placed on a mortar (a solution of fireclay clay and fireclay with special additives) with an indent from the outer walls of the furnace of 8-10 mm. The lining will expand from high temperature, but the gap will protect the outer walls of the furnace from cracking. Instead of chamotte (chamotte - groats-), sand should not be used. It breaks down at high temperatures.

The fact is that when burning wood, the highest temperature is at the top of the flame. At a short distance, the top of the flame will rest against the cobblestones, the temperature of the flame will decrease on them, and unburned soot will settle on the surfaces of the stones and in the cracks between them.

Arch masonry. One of the problems when arranging large heaters is the arrangement of grates on which the stones are located. From the high temperature and gravity of the cobblestone, the grate is constantly deformed and fails. Even railway rails laid instead of grates can be deformed.

In the heater, instead of grates, it is better to make brick arches (or a vault with holes), on which you can put rail sections. This will create a solid foundation for the stone filling.

First, the brick is laid without mortar - for - shooting *. When laying on a mortar, the bricks are upset by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, and the castle one is upset more carefully. The solution should be of medium density.

Stone chamber. The dimensions of the window for the exit of steam from the stone filling chamber should be such that it is possible, if necessary, to climb through it into the heater

Can be lined with fire-resistant steel sheets. It's expensive and inefficient.

The total height of the chamber is made with the expectation that there are at least four rows between the top of the backfill and the vaults (ceilings). At a lower height, it will be difficult to splash water on distant kat / ni. The ceiling of the chamber of the stone element is always arranged one or two rows above the lintel of the chamber window. This part of the chamber is a dam-protector - during the kindling of the heater, it will not allow smoke to penetrate into the steam room.

Ceiling section. The most dangerous place in the fire department is in the steam room - the ceiling is all around the chimney. So that this place does not unnecessarily roar. the pipe in the smoldering passageway is laid on the ceiling with thicker studs - it is cut with iooloina. For heaters topcine of the pipe walls, 38 cm or 25 cm are provided here - with an additional heating pad.

The outer dimensions of the pipe cut are 76x76 cm. But at the place where the pipe passes in the ceiling, a large opening is made - 86x86 cm. Gaps of 5 cm on each side between the brick and the ceiling material are filled with basalt wool or other fireproof material.

An ordinary brick begins to collapse at a temperature of 700 "C, so it is better to lay the ceiling partition from fireclay bricks.

Materials and devices

Kirlt red
Fireclay brick
fireclay brick KLUTOVIDNMY
Ass "and> i. and smoke
Steel corner
Steel strip
Pipe "a STAPNAYA CHLROSTOICHLI
Rolls rail
Stomp door
Blower doors
Grid grates
Steam damper	Craft over the bridge
Doors to exit	Make according to m "sgu"
Chamotte clay "

Gliel, the sand of gormy	On demand
Cobblestone of volcanic origin

For greater decorativeness, some details of the furnace (extension at the bottom, skirt, cutting elements) can be made from bricks that differ from the rest in color.

Life in the countryside in winter is a constant concern for warmth in the house. And a lot depends on how the heating units work. For most people, these are ordinary wood-burning stoves, which are impressive structures made of a large amount of brick and clay. And the task is to warm up this structure as much as possible and keep it warm for as long as possible. If the stove gets cold, it will take a lot of work, wood and time to heat it up again.

Another option is metal stoves. The so-called "potbelly stoves" start to give heat quickly, but they cool down just as quickly after the end of the firebox and are unusually voracious - they consume a lot of firewood.

In recent years, many metal stoves of new designs have appeared that heat up quickly, like the old ones - potbelly stoves -, but much more economical than them. The combustion process in these furnaces is less intense and therefore longer.

It is achieved by reducing the air supply to the combustion zone - the less it is supplied, the longer the stove works with one laying of firewood. At the same time, not

There is an overheating of the metal case, which makes it possible to use steel, rather than cast iron, and welding in the manufacture of furnaces, and make locking devices more accurate and tight. Yes, and the steel itself for these furnaces has become thinner, but the furnaces remain unusually durable.

It is almost impossible to achieve a smoldering regime in traditional brick ovens due to the inevitable smoke in the room in such cases. Since the draft during such combustion is weak, the smoke will go through leaks in the doors and their attachment points, into the gap between the stove and the masonry, etc.

Traditional ovens have other features that can be attributed to disadvantages. So. when using them, a lot of air is wasted, which enters the furnace from the heated room. At the same time, warm air is carried out into the pipe, and cold air enters its place from the street, which significantly reduces the efficiency of the furnace. And in order to avoid unjustified consumption of heat, it is necessary to constantly monitor the process IN ORDER TO COVER THE DY1.ED-

Firebox bins, and loading firewood is almost impossible to automate.

In order to make a stove that would not have these shortcomings, I decided to take the front part of the stove with the furnace door outside the heated room - to the street. This immediately removes the problem of stove smoking in the absence of sealed doors - let it smoke on the street. The main part of my metal stove, hermetically welded, is indoors.

I made a firebox from a square steel box with a section of 300x300 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. Box length - 1500 mm.

I blindly welded one end of the box with steel of the same thickness, and welded an old metal safe on top, the key to which had once been lost. I first cut out the bottom of the safe, and made a hole of the appropriate size in the box under it. In the upper part of the safe, parallel to the box, I welded a metal pipe 0100 mm as a chimney, having previously made a hole in the safe at the junction. The oven is almost ready.

Now it had to be installed. To do this, in the wall of the house, according to the dimensions of the stove, I made holes for the firebox and the chimney, dragged the stove into the house and brought it out into the street with unplugged ends. After that, I increased the chimney and welded small metal blocks to it and the firebox for automatic supply of firewood to the firebox.

Of course, it was still necessary to strengthen the stove, placing it at some distance from the floor. To do this, I hammered metal pipes into the ground and welded the furnace to them.

In addition, a platform for flammable material was welded to the front of the furnace, protruding to the street, 100 mm below the hearth. Such a device facilitates the kindling of the furnace. Here, you can put a crumpled newspaper or. without fear of a fire, put a small container of gasoline, etc. I must say that I have never had 8 life before so easily and quickly

To kindle the stove - you put small chips in the firebox, strike a match - and you can go do other things.

The stove is designed in such a way that, when fully loaded, the wood will burn slowly, and the stove will provide heat continuously for many hours. Usually I use scraps from woodworking of various lengths, but if there are trimmings of 1500 mm root. I put it off - I fill them with tatka in such a way that they do not stick out and you can tightly close the firebox. In this state, the access of air to the combustion zone is reduced, and the firewood burns even longer. As a rule, I do this closer to sleep or “hell has to leave the house for a long time, and there is no control over the heating process,

Despite the fact that the furnace is metal, it is difficult to get burned on it, since the body does not heat up very much. However, due to the long burning time, the stove creates a comfortable temperature in the rooms.

In severe frosts, it is necessary to increase the intensity of combustion and, as a result, increase the consumption of firewood and reduce the time between "refueling *. For these cases, I made a simple system for automatic feeding of a long length. It is arranged simply: a cable with a load at one end and with a hook - at the other, is skipped through two rollers welded to the furnace.I put the length gauge with one end into the furnace until it stops, and hook the other end with a hook.The force created by the load allows you to push the length gauge into the furnace when it burns out.

To reduce the weight of the load used for the operation of automation, I first used a system of chain hoists (movable blocks), but eventually abandoned them. With a decrease in the fuel supply force, it was necessary to increase the height to which it was necessary to lift the load. For example, in order to feed a board with a length of 3m into the furnace, the load had to be lifted by 6 m!

The oven turned out to be multifunctional. It not only gives enough heat, but it is also convenient to heat food on it without fear that it will burn, and the water on it remains hot for days.

I also store hinged snacks on my oven - I “dry” them. Moisture will never freeze in them and they will not jam, which often happens in winter.

The work on the furnace is not finished. We still have to solve the issue with the furnace door and think out the supply of long lengths - a ditch - for now I use the stand that turned out to be under the ruhs.

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