Seam solution. Instructions for use of cement-sand grout for joints “Ideal joint. Preparation of grout for joints
The final step in decorating a bathroom with tiles is always grouting. After carrying out this operation, the tiled masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.
Grouting tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced master. One has only to start and "fill" his hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing work depends on the material chosen. So, for those who do not have experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a fast-curing material can ruin the whole look of even a well-placed tile.
The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, the surfaces of walls and floors from the penetration of moisture, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you can’t do without grouting - finishing material with open seams will not linger on walls and floors for a long time, and on the surfaces under it a favorable environment will be created for the development of mold and fungus, which will sooner or later hit the base.
To make it easy to work with the material, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in finished form must have the following qualities:
- The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable that the mixture has hard inclusions that tend to create “plugs” in the gaps between the tiles that will prevent the grout from penetrating to the entire depth of the seam, leaving air voids.
- The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to high-quality filling of the joints, as it will be easily distributed over the recesses and will allow you to work quickly.
- Strength after curing. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning it should not be washed out.
- Hydrophobicity of the material after curing. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
- Resistant to household chemical detergents, since any tiled flooring requires periodic cleaning.
- Aesthetic appearance. The seams between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should harmonize as much as possible with
Types of grouts according to the material of manufacture
Today, one- and two-component grouts can be found on sale, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are made on various basic bases:
- Cement.
- Polymer-cement.
- Cement-sand.
- Polyurethane.
- Epoxy and furan, produced on the basis of resins.
- Silicone.
In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.
However, self-production of the material may not be of very high quality, and the aggregate will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature fluctuations. Grouts produced in the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.
Therefore, it is better to purchase ready-made materials, especially since they are quite affordable. And making grout with your own hands is recommended only in extreme cases.
Cement based joint fillers
Cement-based grouts remain the most popular and widely used. They are produced by most well-known companies for the manufacture of building mixtures.
Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - made with or without sand.
The mixture, which has sand in its composition, is used to seal wide seams, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.
For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.
The mixture can be made using water at room temperature, or on a latex basis. The latter will have the name of polymer-cement grout.
A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but also give accuracy to the entire masonry.
Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic pails.
Cement grouts can have a different color. Some manufacturers make formulations already in color, while others have coloring pigments included in the kit and are added only during manufacture.
If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.
Silicone grouts
Silicone joint filler is a one-component composition, packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints with a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is, in fact, a sealant. It completely closes the seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.
Silicone sealant is an excellent joint filler for particularly difficult areas
Such a joint filler is most often used in combination with other grout compositions. Basically, they close gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the junctions of planes or in the area where the bathtub adjoins the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, and having any width. Its disadvantage can only be called the fact that silicone sealant is produced in a poor variety of shades - mostly white or transparent compounds prevail.
It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the right cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the aggregate will flow into the seams in an even strip.
Resin grouts
- Epoxy grout
Epoxy grouts consist of two components - an epoxy compound and a hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.
This type of grout is characterized by high strength and resistance to external mechanical stress, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature changes.
Epoxy grout has a very long service life. Such a grout does not lose its original appearance for 45–50 years.
After connecting the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling the seams, but it is decided to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.
Epoxy grout is recommended to be used in cases where wide, over 6 mm seams are provided between the tiles. It fills the cavities well and, when cured, acquires a high density, close to the density of the tile itself.
In order for the wall and floor cladding, where epoxy filler was used, to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high-quality ceramic tiles with perfectly even edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.
There is a variant of epoxy filler, which includes in its composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a reinforcer. Working with such material is identical to mixing and applying cement grout, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.
One of the types of metal powder can be added to the epoxy mixture, traditionally or using Portland cement, if desired. In this case, the tile frame will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, about 6 ÷ 8 mm.
The price of this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it goes to work when facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory facilities, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.
- Furan resin filler
This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfilovogo alcohol. The resulting material, when hardened, acquires the highest qualities of resistance to any influences, whether chemical detergents, acids, ultraviolet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, so it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.
When choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since a special approach to the preparation of joint surfaces is required.
The disadvantages of this material include its high price and lack of color diversity, since it has only one color - black.
This grout is rarely used to improve tile laying at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws along the edges, then framing it in black will give the finish rigor and clarity.
- Polyurethane grouts
The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic composition made on the basis of polyurethane resins and water dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold in the form of a ready-made homogeneous paste.
It is suitable for grouting 1-6 mm wide joints between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.
The composition of the grout is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After the final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.
This type of joint filler has a rich range of pastel shades, which allows it to be matched to any tile.
Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including those with heated floors.
Prices for grout for tile joints
Grout for tile joints
Self-preparation of grout for joints
Just in case, it would be nice to know a few recipes for making grout at home, as there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult at all.
- Cement-sand mixture
The most accessible and simple recipe for making aggregate is the use of cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. The two ingredients are mixed in a dry form, and then water is added to them in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.
For the preparation of cement-sand grout, you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.
In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that bought at a hardware store.
To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to it. Thus, a classic grout will be obtained, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.
- Gypsum grout
Grout mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is necessary, because without it, the hardened gypsum will be very fragile.
In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of the grout, before preparing the next one, the container and spatula should be cleaned well each time, as small and large hardened gypsum particles will interfere with work.
Gypsum is a fragile material and not plastic enough, so it can crumble under mechanical stress. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.
- alabaster grout
Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his option.
It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so before its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrow purpose and do an excellent job with a variety of problems.
If necessary, it is quite possible to prepare mastic for sealing seams from this material. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.
Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3-5 years. But temporarily it can be used if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.
- clay grout
No need to write off such material as clay. No wonder it has always been used for waterproofing work, as it has good hydrophobic qualities. The preparation of joint filler from this material will create a little more trouble than when mixing it from cement and sand or from gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various hard inclusions from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.
Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement to make the grout harden faster. Lime and cement are poured quite a bit. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10:1:1 - the main role in it is still given to clay.
For manufacturing, you can use material of any color, if desired, color and metallic powder are added to it.
Clay will reliably protect the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to clean the seams from it in order to replace it with a more professional grout.
How much grouting material is needed?
So, for high-quality finishes, it is best to use special compositions of industrial production. But how many do you need to buy?
Usually, on the packaging of the grout, the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material per square meter of tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tile and the specific thickness of the seams.
Probably, everyone understands that the smaller the tile in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles of various types can vary significantly.
The general formula can be expressed as follows:
Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k
In the formula, the alphabetic characters are:
Ry- specific consumption of grout per square meter of area;
L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles chosen for laying (mm);
h– tile thickness (mm);
d- the planned width of the gap between the tiles - the thickness of the seam (mm);
k- coefficient taking into account the density of the mortar mixture of the material. It will not be a big mistake to accept its value of approximately 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most grout mixtures, the density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).
The resulting value will only need to be multiplied by the area of the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, “throw” another 10% of the reserve:
Rsum= 1.1×Ry × S
S- the area of the surface to be tiled.
Rsum- the total amount of grout that needs to be purchased (in kilograms).
To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is provided below. calculation, which contains all the above ratios, including the 10% reserve.
The content of the article:
Applying grout for tiles is the final stage of facing work. It provides for the preparation of a special composition and the filling of seams between piece materials. At the same time, the finished coating becomes airtight and acquires an attractive appearance. You will learn everything about the correct grouting of tiles today from our article.
The main types of grouts for tiles
Before you start grouting tile joints, you should decide on the type of mixture and the requirements for it. Currently, there are two main types of such material:
- Dry mixes based on cement. They, in turn, are divided into two types: compositions with filler and without it. The filler of the first type of mixtures is quartz sand, which performs a reinforcing function and makes the hardened seams of the cladding more durable. The second type of mixtures is distinguished by a fine-grained structure. These grouts can be used without fear of scratching the sensitive surface of glazed tiles. In addition to the cement base and filler, both tile grouting compounds include various additives that provide the joints with certain properties: plasticity, water resistance, fungus protection, frost resistance, color, etc.
- Two-component synthetic mixtures. They are based on epoxy or furan resins containing dyes. In the process of preparing the grout, a hardener is added to the composition, which provides the mixture with polymerization after filling the seams of the cladding. Furan resins are used to a greater extent for the preparation of tile grouts used in production, since the process of working with them is quite technically complicated. The most common are epoxy grouts. They have high strength, elasticity, a huge variety of colors and resistance to chemicals, including acids.
Calculation of the amount of tile grout
The estimated consumption of the mixture for grouting tiles is quite difficult to calculate. Even the numbers indicated on the packages by the manufacturers of the goods often differ. An unpleasant moment comes when the grout unexpectedly ends, not justifying the consumption rates stated in the instructions.
To minimize miscalculations when buying grout, you need to consider:
- Tile texture. The consumption of grout, taking into account the collection of its excess from the relief surface, will be greater.
- Tile sizes. From the point of view of mathematics, everything is simple here: the seams on the surface of the cladding will be the smaller, the larger the area of each of its fragments. That is, when processing joints between small tiles, the mixture will be consumed more, and vice versa: the larger the tile, the less grout will be used.
- Seam width. It is characterized by the size of the plastic crosses that were used when laying the tiles.
Preparatory work before grouting tiles
Do-it-yourself grouting of tile joints should not be earlier than a day after laying the coating, but it should not be postponed for a longer period. This is due to a number of reasons:
- The next day after laying the last tile, the adhesive has not yet gained its final strength, so it is possible to easily remove stains and dirt that were missed the day before.
- Residual moisture of the tile ensures better adhesion of the grout to the material. Conversely, special wetting of dried joints causes an increased content of water in the grout, which makes the mixture liquid and reduces its elasticity. It is much more difficult to apply and distribute at the seams such a composition.
- Leaving the cladding seams open for a long time is not recommended due to their possible contamination. Small debris and even dust caught in the gaps between the tiles can make it difficult to apply any grout.
If there is no grout suitable for the color of the tile, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to buy a white mixture and add the required amount of pigment to it, which is used for water-based paints. By gradually adding it and stirring the composition, the grout can be given the desired color.
Depending on the way the work is done, the appropriate tools for grouting tiles are used. But the basic set is as follows: a metal spatula for stirring the mixture, a small plastic bowl or bucket with a capacity of no more than 2 liters, a bucket of water and a clean rag, a rubber or plastic spatula with a rubber tip.
Rules for preparing grout for tiles
The grout mixture must be prepared immediately before the start of work, since it is not stored for a long time and freezes after a short period of time. For the same reason, it is prepared in small portions, especially in cases where the performer does not have a solid skill in performing such work.
When preparing cement grout, the dry component of the mixture must be poured into a clean plastic container and then add the required amount of water to it, indicated by the manufacturer on the product packaging. Mixing should first be done manually, and continue mechanically, using a construction mixer for this. It is a special nozzle with blades, which is clamped in the chuck of an electric drill.
The result of the work should be a homogeneous solution of thick consistency. If a liquid dye is used to color the grout, it must be added to the finished paste, and then mixed again with a mixer. When using a dry pigment, it is added to the main composition before the mixture is diluted with water. After mixing, the solution must be left for 10-15 minutes to complete the chemical reaction in it, and then mixed again using a mixer.
Epoxy grout is made from two components. One package contains epoxy resin with pigment, the other contains a hardener. It is added to the resin, and then the solution is thoroughly mixed. When introducing a hardener, it is very important to observe the proportion of the grout components. It is also indicated in the instructions attached to the material.
It should be studied very carefully, as different manufacturers produce grouts that differ in the content of the components and recommendations for mixing them. Epoxy grout is also prepared in batches, but its polymerization time is much less than that of a cement mixture. Therefore, the work must be done quickly and accurately, for beginners this is often beyond the power.
Before you dilute cement or epoxy grout for tiles, you should acquire eye, skin and respiratory protection. This is because cement and epoxy resin hardener have harmful effects on the body. Therefore, tight overalls, goggles, gloves and a respirator will be very helpful.
Technology for applying grout to tiles
There are several ways to apply grout to tiles. Each of them is used depending on the scope of work and the texture of the surface of the cladding. Let's consider them in detail:
- . On the working part of the tool, you need to collect a little grout mixture and, moving it across the seam, press the solution into the gap between the tiles with force. Then, passing the spatula along the seam, it is necessary to remove the excess mixture. The force must be sufficient so that the grout pressed by the rubber plate of the tool fills the entire cavity of the seam, because only under this condition will the tile lining be guaranteed tightness. In this way, cement and epoxy grouts are applied.
- Applying grout with a trowel. This method is less accurate than the previous one, but with a significant amount of work they use it. The finished mixture must be applied to the lining and evenly distributed with a grater in a diagonal direction relative to the seams, carefully filling them with the composition. Pressing the grout into the seams, you need to fill all the voids that are not filled with tile adhesive to the top. During operation, the liquid fraction of the mixture will gradually come out, and the joints will be filled with a dense grout composition, including filler, cement and polymer additives. Grout paste does not need to be applied immediately to the entire surface of the cladding. After processing 1 m 2 of the coating, it is necessary to determine how quickly the solution hardens, and only after that decide on the frequency of stops in the main work to clean the treated areas.
- Applying grout with a bag cone. The trowel cone is similar to a regular baker's bag with a tip. Before applying the grout to the tile, it must be filled with a mixture that will exit the container through the tip when the bag is squeezed by hand. In this case, the nose of the cone should be tightly attached to the seam. Grouts need to be squeezed out a little more than is required to fill the seam to the top. The movement of the cone starts at the top and ends at the bottom as the mixture is consumed. At the beginning of the setting of the grout, it must be pressed into the gap between the tiles with a piece of rubber cable having a diameter slightly larger than the width of the joint. After 30 minutes, excess mixture? pressed between tiles? should be removed with a stiff brush. This method is used when grouting tiles that have a porous surface that is difficult to clean with other grouting methods, such as natural or artificial stone.
- Applying grout with a syringe gun. This method is used when working outdoors, with a large volume of them or when processing seams on sandy and porous surfaces of stone and tiles. When grouting tiles with a gun, work is carried out with accurate filling of the entire cavity of the joints, excluding the formation of voids and air bubbles. At the same time, the cleanliness of the tiles is observed, the loss of materials is minimized, and the grouting speed is increased. The finished mixture should be loaded into the gun with a trowel or spatula. Then, with a gentle extrusion from the tool, the grout fills the vertical seams between the tiles from top to bottom, and the horizontal ones from left to right. The gun provides with its work an attractive appearance to the cladding and the long-term preservation of its seams.
Features of processing tile seams
After filling the joints with grout, it is necessary to dry and wet them. This is a very important stage of work, on which the tightness of the gaps between the cladding elements and their appearance depend.
Dry processing of seams
It is carried out using a special grater and serves to remove excess grout from the tile. The tool must be held perpendicular to the surface of the cladding and carried out diagonally in the direction of the seams, being careful not to touch them.
If, getting on the seam, the grater captures a lump of grout, the dent remaining from it must be filled again with the mixture, and the surface of the seam should be leveled. For the final polymerization of the mixture, a certain time is required, its duration depends on the composition of the grout.
In the process of cleaning the previous section of the coating from excess mixture, it is necessary to periodically mix the paste in the container so that it is always ready for processing joints in the next section of the cladding.
Wet seam processing
On average, it takes 10-30 minutes to evaporate moisture and harden the grout in the joints. The speed depends on the type of base, type of adhesive and tiles, temperature and humidity. Moreover, the surface of the seam can become hard quite quickly, while its inner part will remain viscous. Therefore, before grouting the seams on the tiles with a wet method, you should check the readiness of the filled joints for such processing. To do this, they need to be tested on a small area of \u200b\u200bthe cladding with a well-moistened sponge.
The mixture in the seams should not be hard, but elastic and dense. If a grout is trailing behind a wet sponge, this means that it is not yet ready for wet processing. For now, you can remove the paste that has dried to the tile with a special grater that does not leave any scratches on the glaze or enamel. After such cleaning, the tile should be wiped with a damp sponge.
To clean the lining and joints, you should have a bucket of clean water and a soft sponge with rounded edges. In this form, it will not leave grooves when grouting. Abundantly wetting the sponge, you need to remove the excess mixture in a circular motion from the tiles and the seams of the coating. After cleaning 1-2 m 2 of the lining, the sponge should be washed and slightly squeezed out, and after processing 8-9 m 2 - change the water in the bucket.
After finishing the first stage of cleaning, the frayed seams should be examined and, if necessary, leveled first with a smooth plastic or wooden stick of a rounded shape, and then with a sponge wrung out of the water.
The shape of the seam is chosen according to personal preference. If the cladding consists of tiles that have sharp and even edges, the grout joint is usually formed flush with them. With a round upper edge of the tile, the form of the seam is most often chosen by the performer, but the grout mixture should not protrude beyond the surface of the cladding.
At the final stage, the ceramics and seams should be wiped again, removing no longer excess grout, but a whitish cloudy coating. The process must be continued until the cladding acquires its final form. After that, it should be left to dry.
Grouts that contain latex or acrylic additives adhere more strongly to surfaces and therefore can be more difficult to wash off. In such cases, traces of the mixture can be removed with special acid-containing products. But they can only be used after the grout has completely polymerized.
To remove traces of epoxy grout tiles on the walls, special tools are used; they are not afraid of an acidic environment. They can be purchased immediately upon purchase of the material. The kit should include a special "hairy" napkin, which will be needed to clean the tiles.
Advice! In order to additionally protect the seams wiped with a cement mixture from moisture, they can be covered with a layer of sealant. This is done easily with a thin brush.
How to grout tile seams - look at the video:
The final drying of the tile grout will take about three weeks. After that, you can enjoy the beautiful cladding of the bathroom, the sealed floor or the chic apron on the wall near the stove.
We rarely carry out work on wall decoration with ceramic tiles on our own. But if this still happened, then you need to carefully consider every detail. Including everything about grouting. Today we will tell you everything about this component, about its correct selection and breeding.
The laying of tiles is carried out at a small distance from each other, which forms those very famous seams. The reason why we leave such distances is to hide the small difference in the size of the tiles, thus keeping the entire laying perfectly even.
Naturally, the seams that remain after must be sealed. And for this, an element called grout is used. It provides an opportunity, both to keep the seams from moisture and other elements, and is designed to improve the appearance of the tiled finish.
What is grout
Technically, this component is a dry mixture that is diluted in water and applied like putty. Now on sale there are several types of such material, which we will discuss below.
Cement based grout
As is clear, it is made on the basis of cement and is the cheapest option, which to a large extent contributes to its popularity. It is a dry mixture, in addition to cement, consisting of sand and other impurities. These impurities can give the composition, for example, a slight spreadability to facilitate application (better viscosity, the moment of final solidification is delayed). Dilution of such a mixture is usually carried out in water or latex.
- Ordinary grout based on Portland cement - used for small distances between tiles;
- Grout based on Portland cement and sand - used if the width of the joints exceeds 5 millimeters. Sand makes the mixture much stronger.
Resin Grout
Epoxy grout. The basis of the material is epoxy resin, to which pigments and other substances are added. Seams worn with this component have much greater durability, the ability to survive impacts and, of course, let water through less, which can be very important for a bathroom with its high humidity. Most often, tiles with a thickness of 1.2 centimeters or more are covered with such a grout with a joint width of more than 6 millimeters. Frequent use - grout for stone.
Previously, it was very difficult to work with such a grout, which led to the fact that it was mostly professionals who dealt with it. Modern models of epoxy compositions have become much easier in their work and this makes it possible to use them in everyday life.
The second type of such grout is the option with furan resin. This type of grout does not contain water and is characterized by the greatest ability to withstand external influences, including strong acids. In the vast majority of cases, it is used in industrial premises and is not used in apartment repairs.
Important! When working with a grout component based on furan resin, it is necessary to cover the tile with wax, and remove the residue with hot steam as quickly as possible. Working with such a component is the most difficult.
How to choose the right grout
- Color matching is a very important aspect of choosing this material. The color of the grout is chosen based on the color of the tile itself, with which we cover the walls or floor. There are two main options here - the grout is carried out in a similar color to smooth the borders, or on the basis of contrast. It is better to use a dark or contrasting grout if you are confident in the quality of the tiled masonry. All existing irregularities in this case will become noticeable;
- The epoxy option is best used in the bathroom as it resists dirt and water better;
- Transparent grout is usually used in the case of narrow joints - less than 2 millimeters, as well as when laying mosaics. By itself, it is not transparent, but it has the ability to take on the colors of the rubbed tile;
- Silicone grout models have an extended number of colors. It is recommended if you are going to use this component in creating the design of your room.
The main manufacturers of grout mixtures
If we consider the world market, the products of which are also represented here, then in the first place it is worth highlighting the companies Knauf, Unis, Weber Vetonit, which produce cement mixtures. If we talk about epoxy options, then here you should pay attention to Litochrome, Atlas and Ceresit (the latter also produces silicone grouts).
How to properly dilute the dry mix for grouting
It is worth noting that there are already divorced options on the market, but they, as a rule, are more expensive. Therefore, here we will consider questions about the dilution of dry mixes. We must say right away that this must be done in the strictest accordance with the instructions. Otherwise, you will not be able to obtain the necessary performance characteristics of such a grout, up to the impossibility of applying it. The breeding process itself is as follows:
- A small container is taken, from where the grout will subsequently be collected with a spatula;
- A small amount of powder is poured out, since it makes no sense to prepare a lot of solution at once. The longer it stands in a diluted form, the more it loses its properties;
- Cement grout is diluted with ordinary water to a state slightly thicker than sour cream. But, we repeat, the amount of water must be identified in accordance with the instructions;
- After initial kneading, the mixture must be allowed to stand to achieve optimum wettability, and then re-kneaded.
How to apply grout on the seams correctly
- The mixture is laid out on the seam with a small slide, which will then be distributed using a special tool;
- It is necessary to apply the mixture to the seam area with a trowel. The latter is held at an angle of 30 degrees and is pressed into the seam area with quite a lot of force. In this case, water comes out of the mixture, and the mixture itself penetrates into the seam as efficiently as possible, filling it completely. It is necessary to go through the grout in the same area several times;
- Before removing excess, do not treat large areas. Rub a couple of square meters, watching how the already applied layer hardens. If this process happens quickly, then it is better to think about removing the excess as soon as possible.
How to remove excess grout
It happens that the structure of the tile itself is very complex, and it is not easy to remove the grout from it. In this case, it is best to use a trowel bag that resembles its pastry "brother". A tip is put on the bag, which runs along the seam. Thus, fine processing is carried out without affecting other parts of the tile.
In most cases, grout removal is a fairly simple process, as long as it's still wet, of course. Usually, a clean cloth soaked in warm water is used for this. Cleaning is done in a circular motion, and the cloth itself is washed periodically.
Tile joints without additional processing can lose not only an attractive appearance, but also their performance. If you do not provide protection from moisture, over time, the grout will begin to collapse, the tile will begin to loosen and fall out. The seams also need to be protected from the effects of chemicals, because the detergent accelerates their destruction. Our article will help you decide what impregnation is needed for tile joints and how to use it.
All the numerous protective compounds and impregnations for tile joints can be divided into several main categories.
Protective compounds and impregnations are divided by composition:
- polymer varnishes.
- acrylic sealants.
- Silicone sealants.
- Protective compounds based on latex.
Also distinguish types of funds for their intended purpose:
- Protective. The seams are protected from mechanical and chemical damage. Suitable for working with old tiles.
- Firming. Reinforcing compounds are designed for putties of low price category based on cement. They must be applied before the cement putty is completely set. The protective composition will penetrate deep into and strengthen the structure.
- Moisture resistant. The seams will be protected from subsequent cracking. They are used for tile joints in a bathroom or other room with high humidity.
- Universal. Such compounds can be used for grouting, as well as a separate impregnation. These hybrid mixtures do not require re-treatment, as they themselves contain impregnation in their composition.
What seams need to be processed?
As a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the grout label information on whether additional processing of the worn seam is necessary.
Some modern types allow you not to grout, as they already contain protective (antifungal or sealing) additives.The putty may require protection from moisture (use a water repellent) or other environmental influences. Before buying an impregnation, you need to clarify which impregnation is recommended by manufacturers.
- The surface of different types of tiles (porcelain stoneware, tiles, cotto) may react differently to the application of impregnation for tile joints. Some impregnations may not be compatible with a certain type, so you need to study the manufacturer's recommendations for working along the seams.
- Cement-based putty needs increased protection against moisture. Such putties on the seams do not have any protection against moisture.
- Putties based on polymer (epoxy) resin are much better protected from the effects of high humidity. These putties should be covered with protective or decorative compounds. They protect against scuffs, stains, exposure to household chemicals.
- Tiled seams of floor tiles, as well as joints near walls, are most often flooded with water, subjected to mechanical stress, so they need to be treated first. Use a water repellent.
- For processing joints with light or colored grout, a polymer joint varnish is well suited. Without protective impregnation, such a grout will inevitably begin to fade and become dirty.
- To protect and increase the brightness of light or colored joints of ceramic tiles, you need to use a glossy protective compound. To do this, you can use glossy polymer varnishes.
Many modern protective compounds simultaneously have protective water-repellent properties; they can be used to process ceramic tile joints in any room. Information about the properties, purpose of impregnation can be found in the description on the label. Experts recommend paying more attention to an effective water repellent, because seams in more humid rooms constantly compete with water.
Cement-based putties must be treated with sealing compounds. Without additional processing, destruction will begin over time.
On the video: how to effectively protect tile joints.
Application of protective impregnation on the seams
After grouting, the joints must dry completely. The grout mixture from different manufacturers will have different drying times and readiness for further processing.
To be safe, you can not touch the patched surface for a week. During this time, everything is guaranteed to dry out.
Before applying, it is necessary to isolate the tile from getting a protective compound. For example, you can carefully glue with paper tape and leave only the seams open. This will be better for tiles with a monotonous or one-color pattern, on which various defects are more visible.
The seams between the tiles are smeared with a thin brush. This method guarantees high-quality uniform coverage. Compositions with deep penetrating ability are applied in 2 layers, since the first layer is almost completely absorbed into the grout. A double layer will provide the best protection.
Impregnation can change the color of the grout to an undesirable one, so you must first test the impregnation on a small area that is not in sight. You can make a test sample from tile scraps.
Cover the material with impregnation with exposure to certain indicators of temperature and humidity. These figures are indicated on the label. If they are not observed, the impregnation may lose its properties and generally begin to fall off. It is best to use a universal impregnating water repellent.
After applying protective impregnation, it will be better to leave it for 1-2 days for complete drying and hardening. After that, further processing can be carried out.
A few tips to help give a new look to old tile joints:
- If they are not subject to destruction or cracking, which is caused by moisture or mechanical stress, then they can be simply one layer of deep penetration impregnation. It protects from destruction.
- Colored seams can be cleaned, updated with acrylic paint, and then applied with a layer of protective impregnation (acrylic or polymer)
- Dirt is removed with a toothbrush and bleach. Treat stubborn stains with baking soda and vinegar. Soda is poured, then poured with vinegar. A chemical reaction takes place that pushes the dirt out of the pores.
Polymer varnish is perfect for processing a cement joint. It completely impregnates the seam, strengthens its structure and provides complete protection against moisture.
You can choose expensive exquisite tiles, the best adhesive mixtures, lay tiles on the walls quickly and efficiently, but if you finish the finish incorrectly, all the work will go down the drain.
Often the end result largely depends on the final touches, so do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom is a responsible and scrupulous stage. Thanks to skillful technique, it is possible to create a stable structure with amazingly correct geometry and impeccable appearance.
The purpose of the solution for filling tile joints is clear: it protects the walls (or floor), as well as the adhesive composition from moisture and mechanical damage. The correct grouting process turns individual fragments (tiles, borders, decor) into a complete coating, making bathroom walls aesthetically attractive.
There is a so-called seamless tile, which completely lacks a side chamfer. Perfectly even edges imply tight laying, without the use of seams and, accordingly, grouting materials.
However, most often it is a collection of author's tiles or porcelain tiles, which are very expensive and require professionalism during installation, therefore, ordinary tiles are used for tiling bathrooms in typical city apartments and country cottages.
Talented Polish designer Maciej Zien is the author of many collections of seamless ceramic tiles, one of which, Piccadilly London, is built on the contrast of colors, shapes and textures.
What kind of grout will lie flat, last longer and do not require quick repairs? Quality material should have the following properties:
- uniformity - do not contain clots and inclusions, so as not to create irregularities or air bubbles that provoke the destruction of the layer;
- elasticity - well-bound particles of the solution help quick and easy application;
- strength that occurs at the end of work and allows you to care for the seams without destroying them;
- hydrophobicity repels moisture.
And of course, the grout should match the color scheme of the selected tile - match in shade or, on the contrary, create an expressive contrast, which happens much less frequently.
The clear geometry of the joints, accentuated by contrasting grouting, and zoning with orange decorative tiles turn the bathroom into a beautiful modern space in which to spend time
Stages of grouting tile joints
It seems to many that grouting is very easy - it is worth applying the composition to the seams, removing the excess and that's it, the job is done. However, in the process of embedding, technical nuances often arise, on which the final result depends. We will try to sort out the finishing stage on the shelves and identify the tricky and difficult moments of such a responsible process.
Step # 1 - prepare tools and materials
The advantage of self-finishing is that you do not need to buy expensive tools and materials. Everything is relatively cheap and sold in building supermarkets. So, for work you will need:
- a set of rubber spatulas for applying the grout and distributing it along the seams;
- several buckets or special containers for mixing the solution;
- construction knife and paint brush for cleaning tile joints;
- several household sponges for wet cleaning;
- protective accessories - a mask and rubber gloves (for aggressive solutions).
Since the process will not last long, it is better to prepare tools and fixtures in advance.
A large amount of clean water is also needed - this is not a problem for the bathroom if the water supply is not blocked due to construction work. From the materials you will need ready-made grout in jars or a dry mix for preparing a mortar, which is usually sold in small packages.
Spatulas for applying and deepening the grout differ from metal tools for plastering walls: they are made of elastic rubber, which is convenient to distribute the composition along the seam without damaging the integrity of the tile
Step # 2 - preparing the seams and mortar
After the glue has completely dried (the time may vary - from 8 hours to 2 days), you can prepare the work surface and dilute the dry mixture with water if you have not purchased a ready-made solution.
The gaps between adjacent tiles must be completely cleaned of adhesive residue with a knife, and then sweep out small fragments and dust with a paint brush. The cleaner the surface to be treated, the smoother the grout will lie and the stronger it will “adhere” to the edges of the tile and the wall.
Preparing the joints when laying new tiles takes much less time than grouting old joints with cracked and darkened grout.
Before grouting the seams on ceramic tiles, we will prepare the mortar. We take a clean container, pour warm water (20-25ºС) into it, pour the dry mixture from the pack and stir thoroughly.
If there is no special mixer attachment for a drill, an ordinary wooden stick will do. The main thing is that there are no lumps in the solution. After preparing the mixture, you should immediately begin the application process.
When preparing a grout, two important factors must be compared: application time and drying time. If you are working slowly, it is better to cook several small portions one at a time.
Step #3 - Applying the grout
At this stage, inexperienced home "tilers" make a small mistake: they begin to fill the seams between the tiles "dry". Professionals recommend moistening the seam with water before applying the composition for better adhesion. Water is applied with a paint brush, preferably a round, large sponge or spray gun.
You can play it safe and use an antiseptic primer instead of water to prevent the appearance of fungus or mold.
If you decide to moisten the seam space with a primer, do not buy a special compound for this purpose. The mortar that you used to prepare the walls for tiles is perfect.
When applying the solution, pay attention to the movements of the spatula - they should go perpendicular to the seam. The grout should be applied quickly, but gently, pressing in a little so that it fills the entire space of the seam.
You can draw the sharp end of the spatula along the application line and once again walk with transverse strokes.
So that there are no wastelands inside the tile joint, the strokes should be tightly superimposed one on top of the other, especially carefully - at the intersections of the lines
Step #4 - Dry and Wet Cleaning
Even with a very careful application of the composition, stains and traces remain on the edges of the tile. How to properly grout tiles, leaving a minimum of traces? Even in the process of processing the seams, you can remove the excess: after several transverse strokes, draw it along with a spatula, collecting the excess solution.
Then, even before the moment of complete drying, you should take a dry cloth or a damp sponge and carefully wipe off the remnants of the solution.
However, be careful: when pressing with a sponge, part of the grout can be squeezed out of the joint, so use only transverse movements.
The more accurate and accurate your movements will be in the process of applying the mortar, the less time you will spend for the subsequent cleaning of the tiles.
A damp sponge is preferable for another reason: by removing excess mortar, it smoothes the seams, makes them even and aesthetically attractive. During work, you should not be distracted, because the grout dries quickly, and it is quite difficult to remove it in a dried state.
Get ready for the fact that after the first cleaning you will have to wipe the entire tile several times with a damp cloth - traces of grout, especially gypsum, are very stable.
The nuances of working with floor tiles
The tile joints on the floor are filled in exactly the same way as on the walls, but there are several nuances that make the job easier. For example, there is a method that allows you to quickly process a floor with smooth tiles. Instead of an ordinary sponge, they take a manual construction grater with a rubber overlay and fill the seams at arm's length with wide, sweeping movements. The solution will lay down evenly and densely fill the voids if made more liquid.
The grater can also be effectively used for the next step - removing grout residues by attaching a porous foam sponge instead of a rubber pad
This method is not suitable if the texture of the tile is embossed, has protrusions or scars. The grout will fill in the depressions in the ceramic, and this is an additional labor-intensive cleaning job.
After treating the ceramic cladding, do not forget to fill the joints around sockets, pipes, plumbing fixtures and towel warmer fixtures with mortar.
Once again about the types of grouting materials
On the shelves of building supermarkets you can find a lot of materials for filling tile joints. Domestic and foreign manufacturers offer products that differ in composition and consistency: dry mixes, ready-made solutions of medium viscosity, dense pastes. Consider how aggregates differ and which ones are better suited for self-grouting.
The basis for the most common type of dry mixes is cement - similar products can be found at every manufacturer. Some cement compositions contain sand, others are diluted with other fillers. Sand mixtures should be used if the width of the seams reaches 4 cm or more, that is, they are absolutely not suitable for bathrooms. Cement-sand mortars are used for external finishing of facades, arrangement of garden paths, construction work in the yard.
Cement grout can be prepared independently, using cement and fine sand, taken in equal proportions, as a base, and some latex additives - for elasticity
For grouting tile joints in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens, Portland cement mixed with lime is used. The fine grinding of the components guarantees an even, uniform layer upon application. Polymer-cement mortars are not diluted with water, but with a latex-based composition. There are two types of mixtures: colored and light, designed to be mixed with a coloring pigment during preparation.
The second type of solutions is prepared on the basis of resins. Even professionals rarely work with epoxy, which consists of two components and is prepared immediately before application. A thick mass must be applied quickly and very carefully. Hardening, the grouting material becomes equal in strength to ceramic tiles and lasts at least 50 years.
Epoxy mixtures are used for joints wider than 6 mm, but they are sometimes used for finishing bathrooms. Designers add gold or silver powder to the powder and get a luxurious frame for ceramic tiles.
Epoxy grout, bright, with the addition of metallic powder, looks flawless and presentable only when the edges of the tile or mosaic are perfectly even
The most resistant material is considered to be a filler made on the basis of furan resin. It is as expensive as epoxy, and has another feature - it is exclusively black. Despite the high performance and exceptional wear resistance, furanol is rarely used.
Sometimes, to process joints, difficult areas or places where tiles adjoin a sink (bath), silicone filler is used - a sealant. It is sold in plastic syringe tubes and squeezed directly into the seam with a construction gun.
The sealant has elasticity, antiseptic properties, but over time it can change its shade: white or transparent material turns yellow from exposure to water and light.
Especially for glass mosaics and ceramic tiles, water-dispersed water-repellent polyurethane grouts are produced by the well-known Italian company Litocol.
The most convenient filler for beginner tilers is polyurethane grout, which is already sold ready-made in buckets of various sizes. It is universal, that is, it is suitable for sealing joints when laying both tiles and mosaics. The width of the seam can be different - from 1 mm to 5 mm.
The polyurethane composition of the mixture is easy to apply, hardens quickly and does not pose problems during further care.
What should be the optimal width of the seams?
The appearance of a tile depends not only on the color or texture, but also on the width of the joints that surround each element from all sides and affect the visual perception. The opinion that wide seams suppress tiles is erroneous.
On the contrary, too narrow seams interfere with full visual perception, and besides, they are dangerous from a functional point of view: grout hardly gets into them, so it is difficult to judge their integrity and tightness.
When calculating the width of the tile joints, consider two important factors: the ease of application of the mortar and the preservation of such grout properties as water resistance and strength
The disadvantage of too wide seams is their weak resistance to external factors. The grout cracks, crumbles and requires constant updating. For this reason, sand is added to cement mixtures for wide joints. The average size of the sides of a bathroom tile is from 10 to 33 cm, a suitable joint width is 3-4 mm.
How to prevent cracking?
More often than others, cement grout cracks. There are several reasons for rapid destruction: too liquid consistency of the solution, unstable wooden base, exposure to hot water, or the wrong ratio of components. If repairs are not made in time, water will regularly fall under the tiles, which threatens to cause mold.
You can embroider and clean the seams, fill them with mortar again, but where is the guarantee that this will last?
Sometimes even in the process of applying the mass, cracks begin to appear. This means that the prepared solution is not thick enough, and to correct the situation, it is necessary to rub dry powder directly into the cracks formed.
It is better to prevent cracking by listening to the advice of experts. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, of medium viscosity, and the seam is well cleaned and wide enough. With self-dilution of the mixture, it is necessary that after mixing it stand for 5-6 minutes, and then mix it again. It is not recommended to ventilate the room during drying or use hot water inside it.
And finally, the main advice: follow the instructions on the package. There you can find information about the correct application of the mortar, the width of the joints and the drying period.