Table to chair ratio. standard furniture sizes. A look into a bright future: lighting and sockets

Ergonomics deals with the optimization of workplaces in order to ensure maximum work efficiency. If you take it wider, it is responsible for convenience and comfort. An ergonomic kitchen should allow the owners to cook food in a minimum amount of time without getting physically tired. And, of course, without the risk of injury. We have to take into account the technology of cooking, understand the features of human physiology and psychology. The universal ergonomics of the kitchen and the creation of an individual comfortable environment for a particular person or the whole family is the topic of our article.

There are generally accepted rules for designing furniture, with their help you can create an environment in which any person will feel more or less comfortable. But people are different, they lead their lives in different ways, they have their own physical data and habits. The standard solution, which is considered convenient, will not always be the best for a particular person. When setting up your own kitchen, you should think about how you cook food. And how could they improve and facilitate this process if the situation was organized differently. Individual ergonomic design is not a luxury, but a way to reduce cooking time, preserve health and create a good mood.

Ergonomic kitchen is convenient, allows you to cook food faster and not get tired

Everything in mind: a rational layout of the kitchen

The basis of an ergonomic kitchen is a convenient layout and arrangement of furniture that takes into account the technology of cooking. We cook mainly like this: we take a piece of meat (fish, vegetables) out of the refrigerator, wash (clean), cut (crush), put it in a pan (in a saucepan, on baking sheet). The path of most products: refrigerator - sink - cutting board - stove. It is only necessary to arrange kitchen equipment and furniture without confusing their sequence. If you put a stove between the refrigerator and the sink in a linear kitchen, the hostess is forever doomed to unnecessary manipulations, which will certainly cause inconvenience and irritation.

It does not matter in what configuration the furniture will be placed. In one line, L-shaped or with the letter P. The main thing is to observe the technologically determined sequence in the location of the equipment

As for the size of the zones: the larger, the better. A large refrigerator, a two-compartment sink with a “wing”, a 90-120 cm food preparation (cutting) area and a full-size cooker are the ideal solution. Alas, in domestic conditions, the size of the room limits the flight of fancy. The inhabitants of "Khrushchev" have no choice: the refrigerator, subject to the placement of the table, often has to be taken out into the corridor or hallway, because in the kitchen of 6 m2 there is simply no place for it.

The functional layout of kitchen furniture must comply with the technology of cooking

Options for arranging furniture and appliances in a standard kitchen of 12 m2

When planning a kitchen, it is necessary to take into account recommendations both for the height of individual furniture elements and for the width of the aisles.

Optimal working area length

Let's calculate what, in our opinion, the convenient length of the kitchen front should be. It will consist of the following elements:

Standard refrigerator - 60 cm.
Sink - 80 cm. A smaller one (60 cm) will not be so convenient. The "trough" will take about 35-40 cm, and the remaining 20-25 cm for the "wing" will be too small. The sink wing is used not only for storing unwashed dishes, but also for the preliminary preparation of products. Do not place the sink close to the refrigerator, it is advisable to step back at least 10 cm.
Food preparation (cutting) zone - from 90 cm.
Plate of standard sizes - 60 cm.

As a result, we scored 300 cm. This almost corresponds to the capabilities of modern apartments or “brezhnevkas” of increased comfort, if the furniture is arranged in an L-shape. You can “squeeze” by reducing the width of the cutting zone, the distance from the stove to the refrigerator. You can get by with a 50-centimeter stove.

One of the possible options for the distribution of elements of the working area of the kitchen. For those who cook a lot at home, we recommend making the food preparation area much wider than in the diagram. It is better to abandon a separate area for additional household appliances by placing a kettle and coffee maker between the sink and stove. If necessary, the equipment can be rearranged, freeing up space for "large" cooking

The role of an additional or main place for cooking can be played by an “island”, if, of course, there is a place for it. The island should be the same height as the main work area. With sufficient dimensions, it is extremely convenient to cook on it, but when transferring food from the island to the sink or stove, something will definitely fall or spill on the floor.

The kitchen island can simultaneously serve as a work surface, a dining table and a bar counter. Its height should be the same as that of the countertop.

If there is not enough space

What should the owners of small-sized apartments do, where there is a catastrophic lack of space for full-fledged kitchen furniture and appliances, and it is not possible to make an improving redevelopment? We offer the following solutions:

Place the refrigerator outside the kitchen: in the hallway or corridor. If there, of course, there is a place for him. This will allow you to install a full-sized stove and sink, there will be enough space for preparation and cutting and a kitchen table for two or three people. True, in a large family, a hostess who is actively involved in cooking may eventually regret her choice, making her way with pots along a narrow corridor past her husband, children and dog to the refrigerator.

Arranging furniture in a tiny apartment is always a compromise. In this case, when planning the kitchen, they “sacrificed” the wardrobe in the hallway by placing a refrigerator there. This made it possible to at least slightly expand the working surface of the kitchen and put a dining table not for two, but for three people.

Use the kitchen table for large cooking. A small area of 30-40 cm on the work front is enough to prepare breakfast. If at this time no one is sitting at the dining table, it is a convenient and large place for cutting and slicing food, kneading dough, which acts as a kitchen "island". However, it should be noted that the height of a standard table for breakfast and lunch is 70-72 cm and it will be extremely inconvenient to work at it while standing. Not everyone will like to cook while sitting, but it is more comfortable to work while standing when the height of the table is identical to the level of the kitchen worktop (90-95 cm). Chairs of standard height for such a table will not work, models of medium height are needed.

The place is small, there was not enough space for a full dining table. Instead, a semi-bar table was installed, which is a continuation of the countertop.

For a table that is identical in height to the tabletop, neither the usual low nor too high bar stools will fit. You will have to pick up a chair of intermediate height - they are on sale, but in a smaller assortment. Suitable for bar stools with adjustable seat

"Bachelor's kitchen" involves more free planning and distribution of elements of the working area. Usually one or two people are in the room at the same time, numerous household members do not scurry around in the process of cooking. In the "bachelor kitchen" you can generally sacrifice a standard dining table in favor of a stylish bar counter, which will serve as an additional working area. A table or table-rack can be installed under the window, this will free up the center of a small kitchen.

The window sill table allows you to have a normal breakfast, but practically does not take up space

Transformable furniture will help you get more functionality in a small area. In addition to sliding tables, there are retractable and folding.

In this small and very narrow kitchen, only a retractable dining table is placed, which, after eating, is completely hidden under the countertop.

Inside the transforming table (length varies from 20 to 150 cm) is placed a complete set of folding chairs

Folding table in the folded state does not take up any space in the room

Many kitchen furniture manufacturers offer retractable cutting boards.

Not enough space for large cooking - increase the working surface of the kitchen by pulling out an additional cutting board

Drawers can also be built into the plinth, putting infrequently used things there.

Usually an unused reserve for storing utensils is the plinth, where drawers can also be built in. They should be recessed relative to the main facade of the kitchen by 6-10 cm

How high should the table top be?

The wrong choice of tabletop height is fraught with overstrain of the back muscles and, as a result, excessive fatigue and constant pain in the lower back. The height of the working surface of the kitchen should be determined individually, in accordance with the growth of the owners of the apartment or house.

In accordance with domestic standards, according to which typical furniture is still being produced, the height of the countertop in the kitchen should be 85 cm. But GOST was developed in the 60s of the last century, when the average height of Soviet women was 157 cm. Today's ladies "grew up" almost by 10 cm, and the younger generation continues to stretch even higher. Nowadays, men do not disdain cooking, whose average height is 175 cm. The low "grandmother's" kitchen is no longer suitable for most contemporaries.

When determining the comfortable height of the working surface of the kitchen, it is necessary to take into account the differences in people's height

Fortunately, the architecture of modern kitchen modular furniture makes it possible to install the kitchen worktop at a height convenient for a particular family. Most European manufacturers produce cabinets of the lower tier with a height of 72 cm. The thickness of the tabletop is 3-4 cm. The height of the working area is set due to the correct selection of supports, the height of which ranges from 10 to 18 cm. At the same time, the supports have an adjustable design that allows you to increase its height further by 2 cm. We get a minimum height of 85 and a maximum of 96 cm with the ability to set any value within these parameters.

Standard legs for kitchen furniture have an adjustment range of 2 cm

How to choose the right kitchen countertop height for a particular person? We recommend making a simple anthropometric measurement. Standing, bend your arm at the elbow at a right angle. The shoulder is vertical, the forearm is strictly horizontal. Open the palm and point down. Measure the distance from the floor to the palm. Subtract 10-15 cm from the obtained value. This will be the height range of the kitchen countertop, on which it will be convenient for this person to cook.

The ergonomic height of the working surface is best determined not so much by growth as by the distance from the floor to the elbow. The optimum lies in the range of 10-15 cm below the elbow

Higher countertop - more space for utensils

Not enough space to store kitchen utensils? With a high countertop, additional space can be found by making the lower cabinets higher than the standard size. For example, with a work area height of 94 cm and a worktop of 4 cm, low 10 cm legs can be installed. It remains 80 cm, which is 8 cm more than the standard value. If the furniture is not typical, but made to order, it is not difficult to make cabinets of increased height and this will slightly affect their cost. The only limitation is that it will not be possible to use typical paneled doors with non-standard cabinets. It must be remembered that the plinth should sink about 8 cm relative to the front so as not to rest against it with your feet.

Variable work surface

When determining the height of the work surface, you may encounter two problems:

A work surface, the height of which is best suited for cutting and washing dishes, will be inconvenient for manipulating a pan on a built-in stove. Especially if the hob is gas. Given the height of the pan and the grate above the burner (6-10 cm in total), the home cook will have to raise their elbow too high to stir and turn the contents. If you cook in this way often, you may experience pain in the arm and spine. The way out is to lower the level of the countertop by about 8 cm in the area where the hob is located. Or install a stand-alone cooker at an appropriate height. Unfortunately, such a solution is possible only if the kitchen is sufficiently spacious.

From the point of view of ergonomics, it is correct when the section of the countertop with the built-in hob is located below the main working area. Such a solution can only be implemented in a large kitchen with an extended front.

It will not be possible to find a perfectly comfortable countertop height suitable for all family members who are fond of cooking if they are noticeably different in height. You will have to compromise, as a result of which it will be a little high for short people, and a little low for tall people. Installing kitchen cabinets on transformable (adjustable using electric motors or pneumatic mechanisms) supports solves this problem. He pressed a button - and the countertop, and with it the sink and stove, lowered or rose to a level convenient for the “kitchen attendant”. Fantastically convenient, but so far very expensive. However, "advanced" technologies are getting cheaper. Transforming office tables have already moved from the category of exclusive exotics to the standard equipment of a modern workplace. We hope that in a few years the prices for automatic height-adjustable kitchens will also drop to an acceptable level.

It is difficult (possible, but, again, expensive) to seal the junction of a height-adjustable countertop to the wall, so kitchen islands are often installed on supports with lifting mechanisms. For built-in gas stoves and sinks, special flexible connections are produced.

A height-adjustable working surface with the help of servo drives is no longer a curiosity, such mechanisms are sold in Russia

The tabletop that is transformable in height is also good because it is equally convenient to study baking recipes on it (you need to raise the table higher), knead the dough (set it to the middle position) and roll it out with a rolling pin (lower it down)

Ergonomics of base cabinets

For storing relatively small things, it is more convenient to use not shelves, but drawers - you don’t have to lower yourself on all fours to take things out of the far corners. On the shelves it makes sense to store large kitchen appliances, like an air grill, and possibly heavy stacks of plates. The more often items are used, the higher they should be placed.

It is more convenient to store medium-sized things in drawers. Bulk products placed in transparent containers will take up less space and be easily accessible

Pots and pans are also more practical to place in drawers

Bottles and similar-sized items are most conveniently stored in a narrow pull-out basket closer to the stove.

Bottles and tall cans are always at hand in the narrow pull-out basket

It is desirable that the width of the door of the swing cabinet, especially located under the sink, be at least 40 cm. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to get something, the more difficult it is to service the sink drain. The width of the cabinet (and door) under the sink with the filter located under it should not be less than 60 cm.

The wider the door in the cabinet under the sink, the easier it is to service the equipment installed in it.

Fashionable minimalistic furniture handles protruding forward look spectacular, but they are not very convenient on the lower cabinets, especially in the cutting and washing area. An adult, while cooking, will rest his hips on their edges, and a naughty child can get a bump on his forehead.

The railing handles are extraordinarily beautiful, but they will rest against the hostess's stomach and hips while washing dishes. A child who has been playing can hit his head on the edge of such a handle.

Hidden kitchen handles, which are horizontal slots in the doors, are safe from injury

Modern solutions for upper cabinets

The standard distance at which upper cabinets were previously recommended to be placed above the level of the countertop is 50 cm. However, today, half a meter clearance seems insufficient to many and cabinets are hung higher, 60-65 cm from the work surface. Undoubtedly, it is more convenient, especially when appliances are located on the countertop: an electric kettle, a food processor, etc. However, it should be borne in mind that due to the too high hanging of the lockers, the access area in them without a stepladder is reduced.

Hinged doors for upper cabinets with standard hinges that open at an angle of 90º or slightly more are potentially dangerous. Carried away by the process of cooking, it is easy not to notice the open door and knock on its corner, getting a bump or, even worse, a black eye. Safe, if used correctly, swing doors, equipped with full opening hinges that allow you to open the door to an angle of up to 180º. The fully open door does not stick out forward, it is parallel to the front. True, it overlaps adjacent cabinets, so it is impossible to open adjacent doors. However, this is rarely needed. Our advice: if the upper cabinets provide for opening doors to the side, at least it is worth equipping the drying rack with special hinges - it is used most often.

A special hinge allows you to open the door to an angle of 180º, so that it is parallel to the cabinets, and does not stick out perpendicular to the furniture front

Another safe way to open the doors is up. They can swing open or move. Sliding ones almost do not protrude relative to the plane of the facades, it is impossible to knock on them. Swing should be positioned so that they are above the head of the home cook.

Upper cabinets equipped with hinged doors (1) are potentially dangerous. You can also stuff a bump on the swing door that opens up (2), if it is located below the top of the head. Safe sliding (3), folding (4) and folding (5) doors opening up

If the height of the upper cabinets exceeds 60 cm, it is better to make the door opening up folding. The disadvantage of the door opening up: to close it, you have to reach high for the handle, which is inconvenient for a short person.

Folding up cabinet doors are the most practical and safest type of opening. If you do not spare money and order a mechanism with an electric drive, the cabinet can be made arbitrarily high, because we close and open it by simply pressing a button

Height of upper cabinets

Top cabinets are available in three sizes:

Low cabinet - 60 cm.
Standard - 72 cm, which is equal to the height of the lower cabinets.
High - 92 cm.

Many manufacturers offer cabinets and other dimensions. When making custom-made furniture in a house with high ceilings, you can make the upper cabinets even higher. However, if heavy dishes are stored in them, it is more rational to hang two rows of cabinets. So more reliable. The bottom row of cabinets with upward opening doors should be of such a height that a person can easily reach the handle.

The nomenclature of common standard doors for cabinets. If there is space, it makes sense to use the upper cabinets with a height of 92 cm

Happy owners of apartments with high ceilings can hang the upper cabinets in two rows

Open shelves against cabinets

From the point of view of ergonomics, the cook should have everything necessary at hand during cooking. The list of necessary tools, utensils and ingredients for cooking can be long. Some spices, packaged in small jars, can be filled with a dozen. Salt, pepper, a cutting board, all kinds of scraper blades, tea and coffee are needed at almost every cooking and meal, if the owners do not eat frozen fast food heated in the microwave. Several times a day, getting all this out of a closed closet and hiding it back is a dubious pleasure. In our opinion, it is much more convenient to keep frequently used utensils on open shelves. Everything is before your eyes, and even if the thing is not put in its place, it is easy to find.

Open shelves, rails and hooks provide quick and easy access to frequently used items

Adherents of a refined minimalist style in the interior will prefer to wipe the sink dry after each washing and hide the detergent, sponge and napkins in the closet, not to mention other things. But for most people, it will be more comfortable to use open shelves and racks for small items. There are two reasons for the wider spread of the "open top". First: the contents of the shelves will have to be kept in order and periodically wiped. However, infrequently, provided that a good hood is installed in the room. The second reason: the lack of traditions, "Soviet" kitchens were equipped with blank cabinets.

In the kitchen of the famous designer Artemy Lebedev, there are no closed cabinets on top, only open shelves

Sink and trash can: a practical upgrade

The size of the sink bowl should allow you to wash the largest dishes in your home.

The side “wing” and the second, small, bowl are very convenient. If there is room for them.

The side wing will serve as an additional cutting surface. Additional bowl - optional, but convenient equipment

If you have a water filtration system, you should make sure that the sink allows you to install a second faucet for purified water if you do not want to purchase an expensive faucet with a switch. Under a tap with a low spout, it is inconvenient to wash large dishes, and splashes fly from a tall mixer when washing small dishes. The best, but not cheap option is a faucet with a pull-out spout.

The pull-out spout on the kitchen faucet not only makes washing dishes more comfortable, but also reduces water consumption.

We recommend purchasing a sink with a bottom valve that allows you to close the drain by turning the handle. The valve is more convenient than a plug, and due to the rise in the cost of housing and communal services, it is more economical to wash dishes by pre-soaking them. Yes, and faster.

It is customary to store a trash can under our sink. They opened the door of the lower cabinet, took out a bucket, threw out the garbage, closed it. It will be easier if you hang the bucket on the door - less movement.

Inexpensive, but convenient trash can mounted on the cabinet door. We open the door - the lid of the bucket rises, close it - it falls. No smell

The best option for placing the "garbage bin" is built-in, under the work surface. A hole is made in the countertop, a container for garbage is placed under it. The hole and container are closed with a flat lid. You can buy a sink with a built-in trash can, it's even more convenient. The presence of a grinder on the sewer drain will significantly reduce the volume of waste and almost eliminate the "aroma" of waste. Alas, advanced garbage collection and disposal systems are not cheap.

The most convenient "garbage bin" is built into the countertop. Pulls out easily - upwards.

Convenient and safe placement of equipment

We talked about the arrangement of the main elements of equipment on the floor plan. A few tips for choosing and placing kitchen appliances:

If the kitchen front has an L-shaped configuration, it is more rational to place household appliances located on the countertop (microwave, electric kettle, coffee maker) in the inner corner, which is problematic to use for cooking.
A very convenient solution is to place the oven in a high column cabinet at a height of 65-80 cm from the floor. It is much more convenient to observe the cooking process, load and unload baking sheets without bending. Unfortunately, in a small room it is difficult to find a place for the "column".

It is much more convenient to use the oven installed in a tall cabinet at a height of 65-80 cm than under the countertop in the standard version.

A traditional fireplace-type hood does a good job of removing kitchen fumes, but protrudes dangerously forward. You can fill a bump by trying to look into the pan. The exhaust devices built into the furniture also suffer from the same drawback. But the inclined hood is absolutely safe, it does not stick out above the stove at head level. By the way, the minimum height of the hood suspension above the electric stove is 65 cm, above the gas stove - 75 cm.

Ergonomic inclined hood removes kitchen fumes as well as traditional "hoods", but almost does not protrude above the stove

The process of cooking or heating food in a microwave oven is easier to control when its transparent door is installed slightly (about 20 cm) below eye level. The best places for a microwave are in the “column” above the oven or on the bottom shelf of the top cabinet. And the owners of tight Khrushchev can find a place for the stove on the windowsill.

It is advisable to place the microwave so that, while standing, you can see the cooking process through the glass window.

The right tables and chairs for the dining area

In Soviet times, the dining table had to have a height of 70 cm, which corresponded to the physical characteristics of a person in the 60s. And today many enterprises produce furniture according to these standards. But for people taller than 160 cm, this height is already too small. To date, dining tables in the EU countries mainly have a height of 72-76 cm, and in the USA already 74-78 cm. On the domestic market, you can find furniture of various parameters. Not uncommon - tables on supports adjustable by several centimeters.

In a private kitchen, you can find two more types of tables: semi-bar and bar. We have already mentioned the first one, it is made to the level with the tabletop (85-95 cm) and is used both for eating and as an additional working area. A high bar counter (as in public bars) has a height of 120-125 cm, but at home it can be a little lower.

In width for one person sitting at the table, it is recommended to allocate a space of 60 cm. Accordingly, for two - 120 cm. It makes no sense to do less than 50 cm per person, it is too crowded. The recommended minimum depth of a table on both sides of which people sit is 80 cm.

Chairs must be chosen according to the table. Provided that the thickness of the tabletop, together with the stiffening rib, does not exceed 10 cm, the seat of the chair should be approximately 30-35 cm lower than the top of the table for a standard dining table, 28-33 cm for a semi-bar table and 23-27 cm for a bar table. A stool for a high bar counter must necessarily have a support bar for legs.

Height-adjustable dining and bar stools are easy to adjust to a position that is comfortable for a particular person and type of table

A look into a bright future: lighting and sockets

There is not much light. In addition to the general lighting of the kitchen, bright illumination of the work area and good lighting above the dining table are necessary.

Moderate general light and bright illumination of the working area is the key to comfortable work and the safety of the vision of the home cook

Sockets: no matter how many you make, you still don’t have enough. We recommend counting the number of electrical appliances that are planned to be installed in the kitchen and making a couple more outlets. You should also not forget about the TV and the handset of the telephone system, if any are planned in the kitchen. Putting the TV on the refrigerator, as is often done, is not worth it: you can turn your neck while looking at it from a chair. TVs are now flat, it is better to hang on the wall or place on the table.

Recommended layout of outlets in the kitchen. Sockets of appliances located on the countertop - above the cooking and cutting areas. It is better to make sockets for built-in appliances in the sink cabinet or in the basement, so access will be provided to them.

Once again about safety: how to protect children from injury

We have already mentioned safety, an integral part of ergonomics. If there are small children in the house, care should be taken that the babies do not get injured. If possible, sharp corners should be avoided when designing or choosing furniture. Special devices can be used to protect the child from hitting sharp objects.

A soft overlay on the corner of the table will save a frisky child from injury

We should not forget that children are curious and will definitely climb where they are not allowed:

The “children's” pad on the door (on the left) will not allow the child to enter the “secret” locker, and the stopper-brake (on the right) will not allow the finger to be pinched by the door

Electrical wires must not be left accessible; blocking plugs must be inserted into low-lying sockets

Special protective screens for stoves that prevent the child from reaching hot pans are not sold in every store, but parents should look for this useful thing. Magnetic constipation on the refrigerator (on the right) is also useful

Many models of modern household appliances are equipped with a power-on lock function, in which children can press buttons and turn knobs - nothing will happen.

We hope our recommendations will be useful to you. Within the framework of the article, many questions on ergonomics and organization of the kitchen remained untouched. We recommend that you seek advice from specialists at the furniture design stage. An experienced furniture or interior designer will be able to suggest a lot of useful things and save you from mistakes. Good luck.

Surely every person in his life had to experience discomfort when visiting any official institutions, entertainment venues or just visiting. And the reason for this discomfort was the wrong, uncomfortable position of the body while sitting.

This does not happen because the hosts are evil, heartless people and unfriendly hosts, not at all, they just picked the wrong size of chairs while furnishing the room. How so? Does it really matter, how can a chair have the right or wrong size?

It turns out that yes, high-quality furniture is produced according to generally accepted standards, which take into account the complexion of the average person. However, not all furniture factories adhere to the standards, trying to speed up the pace of production or reduce the cost of their products. As a result, we get the size of chairs, tables and sofas, which would fit, perhaps, a giant or a midget, but not a person with normal physiological parameters.

Shall we sit down and rest? Or…

It so happened that usually people, furnishing a work or living space, are concerned about aesthetics, they take into account how harmoniously the furniture will fit into the interior, whether it will fit in its style with other objects in the room. Size turns out to be a decisive factor, this parameter is paid attention only in the case of a cramped area. Buyers think more about whether the seat will fit in the right corner or be too big for it. And they make a serious mistake.

In fact, if you purchase furniture unsuitable for comfortable seating, a person, sitting down even on the most expensive chair, will experience a whole range of unpleasant sensations.

So, if the back of the chair does not have the prescribed slope of 8-12 degrees, the seated person is guaranteed pain in the back and neck. When the seat is too low and the knees are unnaturally bent, normal blood circulation is disrupted, which leads to numbness and swelling of the limbs. In the case of an imbalance in the height of the chair and table, it is inconvenient for a person to work, he is forced to constantly lean towards his workplace, which is why he quickly gets tired and runs the risk of earning myopia.

gold standard

It is believed that the most optimal and frequently used option would be the following dimensions of a chair with a back:

height from the floor to the top of the back - 800-900 mm;
height from floor to seat - 400-450 mm;
back height - 400-450 mm;
back and seat width - approximately 430 mm;
chair depth - 500-550 mm;

Of course, these are quite approximate dimensions, the height of the backrest and the width of the seat may differ in the first place, since these factors do not have such a strong effect on the comfort of the sitting posture.

Chair variation

When making a chair with your own hands, the dimensions simply need to be taken into account. When creating a preliminary drawing of the entire structure, it is best to arm yourself with ready-made schemes that are developed by professional carpenters, as they produce models according to all the rules. A good chair should not tip back, wobble, be too straight, low or high.

Of course, there are different models of furniture, sometimes absolutely not falling under the standard parameters. Consider the now popular tall ones suitable in height for bar counters, which are radically different from the parameters of their classic counterparts. The height from the floor to the seat is 75-85 cm, most often it can be adjusted using a special lifting mechanism. It is important to consider that such furniture can be in the form of a stool or a chair with a back. For the home, the second option is preferable. At the dining table it is much more comfortable to spend time with convenience, and the ability to lean back after a delicious dinner is an indisputable advantage of a good chair.

Another important nuance for is the presence of a footrest. Dangling your legs, of course, is fun and interesting, but you can’t deprive yourself or your guests of the opportunity to fix the limbs at the moment when they get tired of the free hanging position.

According to individual sizes

Many readers will probably be interested in the question of how to be people who have non-standard height or weight. An ordinary chair is made in such a way that it must withstand the load of a seated person no heavier than 100 kg. The average height is taken into account in the range of 167 cm for a man and 156 cm for a woman. Those who are significantly lower or higher than these indicators can order or make a chair according to individual sizes.

When making custom-made furniture, joiners use several important measurements that directly affect the size of wooden chairs for customers. To calculate, they will need to know the height of the client in a standing and sitting position, take into account the length of his lower leg from the inside and outside, as well as the length of the thigh.

The height of the furniture on sale varies, in this article we will tell you what options for a bar stool can be. It is equally important to know this when choosing an environment in catering establishments to provide guests with comfort, and for decorating a bar area in a home kitchen, dining room or living room.

Height standards

The standard height of furniture for restaurants, cafes, bars, clubs is established by the interstate regulation GOST 17524.2-93, according to this document, there are 2 options for a bar stool.

85 cm - low; for racks-counters located at a level of 110-115 cm from the floor. Marked with the symbol Bh (BarHocker).
95 cm - high; to racks that are raised 120-130 cm from the floor. Marking Th (TresenHocker).

Serial furniture is manufactured according to GOST, production according to individual projects allows other dimensions.

Bar stools with height adjustment

Furniture, the design of which allows you to adjust the parameters, is convenient:

bar stools are easy to adapt to the height of the countertop;
it will be comfortable for people with different heights to sit;
one set of chairs can be moved from the counter to the dining table as needed.

Models are commercially available with a lifting range of 28 cm (for example, you can increase the seat height from 51 to 79 cm).

Types of mechanisms

The oldest and simplest technical solution for furniture with manual adjustment. The height is changed by rotating the seat of the bar stool:

rise - counterclockwise;
down is clockwise.

The screw fixes the selected position. If this element is hidden in the leg, it performs only a utilitarian function, if it is visible, it simultaneously serves as a decorative detail.

Models with a screw mechanism are usually used at home or in establishments that are stylized as old pubs, taverns, etc. They are also appropriate in loft-style interiors.

The seats and legs of stools with a screw adjustment device can be wooden, metal, or plastic. The lifting mechanism itself, as a rule, is made of durable metal.

gas lift

A gas lift is a pneumatic structure with a lift or turn-and-lift mechanism. Height adjustment is carried out in automatic or semi-automatic mode, which is triggered by a button / lever under the seat of the bar stool. The cylinder built into the leg contains gas, which the piston presses on, the gas compresses the spring, and the seat is lowered. The shock absorber makes the ride smooth and limits the up/down range. The shock absorber material affects the period of furniture operation: chrome and brass parts last longer, plastic ones are less durable, but they are much cheaper.

Models with a gas lift are designed for heavy loads, so they can be used not only at home, but also in the lounge areas of offices, catering establishments.

Periodic monitoring of the state of the mechanism is required (at least once a year) in order to replace defective parts in time - to eliminate the risk of breakage and ensure operational safety. In addition, there are restrictions on the use of gas lift furniture:

do not sit down for people whose weight exceeds the permissible load (indicated in the instructions);
it is forbidden to use furniture at temperatures below + 4-6 ° C;
you need to adjust the parameters while standing and only then, sitting on a bar stool, check the comfort.

What height should a bar stool be: selection criteria for catering establishments and at home

Furniture for catering establishments

When creating interior concepts for HoReCa establishments, designers often recommend non-standard furniture. Therefore, manufacturers are expanding the range of dimensions. And when choosing how high a bar stool should be in a particular design project, it becomes important to know two rules:

anatomically comfortable distance between the table and the seat is 28-33 cm;
between the seat and the footrest - 40-44 cm.

Accordingly, furniture for halls in cafes, restaurants, etc. is arranged.

In addition, bartenders use racks in catering establishments. Typically, such a counter is fixed at a level of 90 cm from the floor and is equipped with a 58-63 cm high stool with a rotating seat. So it is convenient for the bartender to work both standing and sitting, turning from the bar to the shelves with bottles, accessories, dishes, etc.

When furnishing an establishment, it is important to consider not only what height of the bar stool is optimal to match the level of the counter, but also the presence of a back. If we are talking about a bistro with high traffic, where visitors do not linger for a long time, it is enough to put bar stools with hard / semi-rigid seats, the dimensions of which are at least 36x40, maximum 45x45 cm. with armrests and high backs).

Furniture for the home bar area

The main criteria for choosing the height of stools for a home bar in the kitchen or living room are the same. The rack here is usually raised from the floor by no more than 90 cm in order to avoid large differences between its level, the dining table and the kitchen cabinets. This allows you to maintain a cozy geometry of space. For such solutions, bar stools are suitable, in which the seat is fixed at a height of about 60 cm.

Good for home furniture with the ability to adjust the dimensions, if necessary, adjust the seat to the height of any family member.

Even knowing how to choose a bar stool by height, do not trust only the recommendations and standards - try to sit down, evaluate your own feelings. This is possible even when buying online. Just visit the showroom of the company where you are going to purchase furniture. If there is no showroom, go to any furniture showroom and experiment with the models presented in it, and then choose the one you like in the online store.

Sometimes we need to buy custom-made furniture or, in general, make furniture ourselves. And the main thing in it: do not harm human health. Convenience and comfort of use are the basic principles of furniture, both home and office. For this, standard sizes of furniture products have been developed. And below you can see them.

It is clear that these dimensions must be dictated by something. And such a factor is the anthropometric data of the average human body, as well as the size of the places for the future location of this furniture.

For a better understanding of the dimensions of the human body at rest, in motion, during the operation of furniture, below is a figure with human anthropometry. Based on the above factors, furniture size standards are formed.

Comfort in the use of furniture is due to the size of the human body, and the relationship of various products and the choice of their parameters also matter.

For example, the height tables and workers, and lunch, are calculated taking into account the fact that the average height of a person is 1700 mm.

And the height standard chairs and stools, tied to the height of the table, equal to 720-780 mm. Then the seat height of the chair should be chosen within 420-480 mm. The width of the seat is recommended to design at least 360 mm, and the working chair - 400 mm. The backs of chairs and work chairs can be designed with or without curvature. In the first case, the radius of curvature of the back should be 220 mm with a height of not more than 320 mm. And the so-called straight backs have a radius of curvature of 450 mm with a height of more than 320 mm.

tabletop desk it is more intelligent to design with dimensions of at least 800 × 500 mm, for the convenience of writing and working on it. The distance between the legs or cabinets of the desktop should be at least 520 mm, for a comfortable position of the legs of the seated person. The width of the seat at the dining table is calculated within 500-600 mm per person, and the depth is at least 325 mm. Calculate the size of the entire cover in accordance with the number of seats.

If you are developing dinner table with a rectangular lid, then the distance between its legs along the longitudinal axis should be planned at least 910 mm, for the installation of two chairs. Kitchen tables for small apartments can also be made in smaller sizes, at the rate of 500 × 300 mm per seat.

Considering armchairs for relaxation, it should be mentioned that their depth should vary between 450-600 mm, for sofa beds and chair beds - 500-600 mm. The width of the seat is at least 500 mm. The sleeping place of the chair-bed and sofa-bed is designed to be at least 1860 mm long, or, of course, design the length according to the height of the person who will operate this furniture.

Armchair bed and sofa bed assume a width of at least 650 mm per person, otherwise you will get guest furniture designed for only one night of operation. There are standards for the length and width of mattresses for the bed. Most often it is 1900, 1950, 1980, 2000, 2100, 2200, if we talk about length. The width of single ones is from 700 to 1000 mm, double ones - 1100-2200 mm.

The dimensions of the kitchen furniture can be seen in the figure below.

The height of the working surface is developed with a height of 850 mm. bottom depth kitchen cabinets it is more logical to choose according to the dimensions of the gas or electric stove, if you are not planning a hob. Standard plate sizes are 500×500 or 600×600 mm. The depth of wall cabinets and shelves is 300 mm. This size can be reduced, but taking into account dishes and equipment.

Compartments for clothes and linen built-in wardrobes will be optimal if you think them over for certain things right away. But for reference, they are shown in the following figure.

Dimensions linen shelves You can also peep in the figure below, where the dimensions for storing bed linen are indicated in brackets.

The distance between the shelves themselves should be in the region of 200-400 mm. If you plan to store hats, the shelf under them should be at least 240 mm deep and 170 mm high.

It is also necessary to design furniture taking into account the size and configuration of the room itself, consider the size of the passages between the products, providing for various groupings of furniture.

In furniture design, knowledge of such an aspect as ergonomics is of great importance. That is, the conformity of the parameters of the product with the parameters of the human body. In order for your furniture to be not only stylish and original, but also comfortable, you will have to follow a number of rules, which we will discuss below.

The main anthropometric indicators of the average person

Based on them, all the main patterns have been developed. Let's move on to particulars.

For example, if the height of the table is 720-750 mm, then the seat height of the chair should be 430-450 mm. It is possible to reduce the height of the working surface of the table up to 680 mm (for working with a keyboard, typewriter).

One seat at the table in width should be 500-600 mm per person, but not less than 325 mm in depth.

For desks, the dimensions of the working area must be at least 800 X 500 mm.
For dining tables (rectangular in shape, the recommended distance between the legs of the table should be at least 910 mm - to fit two chairs). Compared to desks, kitchen workspace is smaller - allowed 500 X 300 mm - per person. If the dimensions of the kitchen allow, then it is better not to do this.

Place for a comfortable location of the legs under the table - 450-520 mm per person.

For secretaries, the dimensions of the working area are at least 700 x 400 mm, while the door must be at least 300 mm (to fit the legs).

For seats, the width at the widest part of the chairs must be at least 360 mm, if the chair is working, then all 400 mm. When using backs with curvature in furniture, the radius of curvature should be 450 mm for regular full-size backs (their height is up to 320 mm), and 220 mm for lumbar backs (height exceeds 320 mm).

As for the depth, for sofas and armchairs it should be 450-600 mm, for folding sofas and chair-beds at least 500. The width per person should be at least 500 mm.

The length of one bed (folding sofa and chair-bed) should be 1860 mm, while the width varies - for a chair-bed 600 mm, for a sofa from 700 mm (it can be wider).

Standard mattress lengths are 1600, 1860, 1900, 1950, 2030 mm. Width for single - 700, 800, 900 mm; for double - 1100, 1200, 1400, 1600 and 1800 mm. ... Although, today mattresses can be ordered in any size

Let's move on to the next type of furniture - cabinets. There are much fewer strict standards here, but when designing, you should focus on the following points:

Height for comfortable use of shelves 1500, 1900, 2100 mm (not absolutely - variations are possible). The average distance between the shelves is 300 mm.

As for the dimensions of the shelves themselves, they are clearly shown in the figure (shelves for clothes, in brackets are the dimensions for the shelves intended for bed linen). For bookshelves, the following standards exist: when placing books in one row, the depth of the shelf is 150-300 mm, when placed in two rows - 300-440 mm. The height of the bookshelves is 180-400 mm (depending on the size of the publications placed on them).

A hanger for clothes on hangers should be placed at a height of no more than 1900 mm (of course, if it is not). The distance to the overlying shelf must be at least 50 mm.

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