Underfloor heating due to hot water is legal. Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor in the bathroom

Heating private houses and apartments with water-heated floors is a fairly popular option, since the system is efficient and economical. Warm air rises evenly from the bottom to the top, creating optimal comfort in the room. Warm floors can be implemented in different ways, it can be a warm floor from central heating in an apartment or an electric one that requires laying a heating cable. Considering the cost of electricity, many residents find the idea of ​​​​installing a warm floor from a battery in an apartment more attractive. The costs will mainly be for equipment, and heating costs are not so high.

It is widely believed that it is strictly forbidden to connect a warm floor from hot water in an apartment. This is not entirely true. Permission from the management company can be obtained if the apartment is located at the end of the heating circuit - on the first or last floor, depending on the heat supply scheme. Thus, the thermal energy received in the apartment will not infringe on other residents in the apartment building. As a rule, you need to install a heat energy meter, and you can safely connect a warm floor from a battery.

The supply of heat energy is carried out through a heat exchanger for underfloor heating in the apartment, which makes it possible to make the underfloor heating circuit "autonomous", not affecting other heat consumers.

How will the height of the room change from the installation of a warm floor?

When planning to install a warm floor from heating in an apartment, you need to consider not only the cost of materials, obtaining permission. An important nuance is to consider how the floor height will rise. It is necessary to install good thermal insulation on the subfloor so that the heat does not go into the floor slabs. For apartments on the second and higher floors, it is enough to lay 3 cm of insulation (polystyrene, etc.).

If in the bathroom from the heated towel rail it is connected on the first floor, below which there is a basement or soil, the insulation layer should be within 5-10 cm. Next, the size of the pipes, the topcoat layer are taken into account. The result is the final figure by which the height of the room will decrease. If the living space allows, you can buy equipment.

Pipes for underfloor heating

Considering that water floor heating is filled with a screed, it is clear that you need to choose durable pipes. The choice of a specific material will directly affect the price of 1 square meter of warm water floors.

But the price is not the main thing, it is important to comply with the conditions:

What do you need to install underfloor heating?

You can’t just take and cut the contours of the warm floor into the heating risers. The water won't circulate on its own, so you'll need a pump. You also need a system that removes the accumulated air in the system. The coolant in central heating is not clean, so to protect your own underfloor heating system, you need to install filters that trap dirt particles.

It is important to consider that the coolant in central heating can be heated up to 80 degrees, and you cannot run such water into your system - this will ruin both the screed and the finish, and it will be excessively hot in the room.

The optimum temperature of the coolant in the underfloor heating system is up to 45 degrees.

Therefore, it is necessary to install a unit that mixes water from the supply and return, as well as devices that control parameters. Therefore, the cost of a warm floor will include the price, and the thermal head, and the servo drive, etc.

Underfloor heating connection diagram

In order to properly connect the selected system, you need to prepare the equipment: a circulation pump, a servo drive for a warm water floor collector, a temperature control sensor, a distribution unit, a collector. Connection and trial run of the system is carried out before pouring the screed.

The main thing in the system is the distribution unit, it regulates the temperature of the coolant.

Thanks to a three-way valve and a sensor (thermo head for underfloor heating), the owner of the apartment regulates the temperature, achieving optimal comfort and savings on bills. The essence of the operation of the valve with the sensor is to timely shut off the hot flow when the set temperature is exceeded.

needed for uniform distribution in the coolant system. The pump is installed after the distribution unit, but after the collector group. From the three-way valve, the cooled water enters the pump, then into the collector and along the contours of the heated floor. An air outlet and a drain cock are installed in the upper and lower parts of the collector, respectively.

The diagram shows how to connect - underfloor heating to heating in apartments that close the heating circuit. If the insert is carried out in the apartments in the middle, then the three-way valve is replaced with a two-way valve.

Alternative underfloor heating Xl Pipe

Those who do not have the opportunity to legally connect floor heating from a battery should familiarize themselves with the modern Xl Pipe system. Reading reviews on xl Pipe underfloor heating, they note that this is a kind of hybrid of electric and water heating that does not have their shortcomings. The heating element here is a polyethylene tube 2 cm in diameter filled with antifreeze. Inside the tube there is a chrome-nickel heating cable in a Teflon sheath.

The design is sealed and safe. The system does not use a pump, collector, boiler. The coolant does not move here. Installation of a liquid electric underfloor heating Xl Pipe is carried out in a screed. Furniture and appliances can be moved without restrictions, the system will not be damaged. As the reviews on underfloor heating as the main heating say, this option copes with the task quite well, the temperature can be adjusted at your discretion.

The essence of Xl Pipe is simple and clear. When turned on, the cable begins to heat the coolant, quickly reaching the set temperature. Fluid pressure in the system ensures even heat distribution. According to the manufacturer, such a warm floor consumes a third less electricity than other electric heating systems. When compared with water heated floors, the costs for the purchase of a boiler, collector and other equipment are excluded.

Floor heating infrared film Heat Life

Those who have no idea how to properly make a warm floor from heating, or do not have the opportunity to carry out major repairs in the room for this, should take a closer look at the Heat Life IR heating film. It is used as the main or additional heating system in offices, residential buildings, industrial and other facilities. Those who choose Heath Life underfloor heating note the minimum installation and maintenance costs, low heating bills.

As a rule, the installation of the film does not require a screed. It can be used to heat tiles, linoleum, laminate, porcelain stoneware, and other flooring options. Energy is used to heat the floor, not the air. In addition, infrared film can heat any surface - vertical, inclined, embossed. Even if a section of the film is mechanically damaged, the overall system will continue to work. Corrosion film Heat Life is not terrible.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Among the advantages of using water, electric underfloor heating systems, savings on heating bills are noted. If the feet are warm, even the minimum temperature can be perceived as comfortable. Installation is not complicated, the appearance does not attract attention, like standard ones. There will be no drafts in a house where there is a warm floor. Children won't get cold playing on the floor.

As for the shortcomings, they also exist. Firstly, it is the cost of equipment, installation. Secondly, water heated floors require a loss of several centimeters from the height of the room. Thirdly, the floors should be free from carpets - otherwise, why heat them. When a breakdown occurs, it is difficult to determine which area is damaged. Furniture should not cover the floor, so as not to interfere with the circulation of heat.

Having familiarized yourself with all the listed nuances, you can make a conscious conclusion about warm floors, the expediency of their use in an apartment as the main or additional source of heat. In general, electric floor heating systems are installed in small rooms - in the bathroom, kitchen, bathroom. If you plan to heat a spacious room, it is better to give preference to a water-based system. In any case, it is important to consult with professionals, and then entrust them with the installation of the system, start-up and maintenance. So you can get guarantees for the safety and durability of the system.

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? This is real! Let's take a look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is implemented by a special wiring. Where in the whole apartment there is one main coolant distributed throughout all rooms and a large return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on the installation of warm water floors in your apartment.

Scheme of a warm water floor

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated completely to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when the energy consumption is more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such a destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, causes the underfloor heating system from the central heating to consume a dosed amount of water volume.

When is it forbidden to install underfloor heating in an apartment?

It is forbidden to install underfloor heating from heating, if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along the joint heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If so, it is strictly forbidden to install warm water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is able to take away the temperature so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere and anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of the water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dispensing heat consumption are observed.

Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is prohibited

Let's take a look at those schemes, thanks to which they install underfloor heating directly in the apartment.

Cheap and cheerful

Here we will consider the option of installing underfloor heating, where it is forbidden to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l / min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not regulated. Also, if there are small heat losses of the floor, then as a result, you can get very cold radiators.

Scheme with balancing adjustment

The installation diagram of a warm water floor shows a balancing valve, due to which the flow rate in the water heated floor is reduced, which means that the temperature of these floors can be reduced. In order to reduce the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reducing the impact of heat consumption

"K2" - a three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanging temperature at point "3". In other words, if your underfloor heating is using a lot of energy, then it is more likely to cause almost cold water to enter the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators down the riser in neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing equipment stores. It is called: "Mechanical three-way mixing valve for water supply with thermostat". That is, the presented valve is necessary for us in automatic mode, in order to regulate the temperature regime of the hot water flow in the circuit of the warm water floor of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented scheme, you need to adjust the tap so that at point "3" there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from the central heating will heat very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm field. Here, to adjust the floor temperature, you can use the balancing valves "K1" and "K2". If suddenly it turns out that the radiator starts to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not pass into your warm floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

K1 "- bypass balancing valve. "K2" and "K3" - differently connected three-way valves. The KZ damper is used to stabilize the temperature of the warm floor from the central heating by the method of return temperature from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called "climate control". If it gets hot in your room, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the underfloor heating circuit, reducing the amount of heat energy released into the room accordingly. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element of the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow the liquid to flow at a very significant rate.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The "K1" valve is necessary for working in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve can reduce or completely shut off the flow of the circuit so that it can cause very favorable operation for the pump in use. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase power consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will go along the entire contour of the warm floors.

Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is allowed

Now consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and consequently the temperature in the room. It is also possible to supply an autovalve to stabilize the differential operating pressure, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow. Such heating with a water-heated floor can provide heat to the entire apartment, provided it is properly installed and subsequently operated.

The consumption of hot water for water heating, the underfloor heating of which is the main source of energy, must be so minimal as not to increase the normalized consumption of water that was used before the installation of the underfloor heating system.

If you increase this expense, then the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the flow rate of the coolant, as this can spoil the normalized flow of hot water in the radiators of your neighbors.

Underfloor heating from central heating, water heating of the house

Underfloor heating from central heating. Various schemes for connecting a warm floor to a central heating system. Description of the main nodes.

Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment

For a bathroom, liquid floor heating is the best option. Spend underfloor heating from hot water supply in the bathroom there are several ways: to connect to the heating riser or to the heated towel rail, if, of course, it functions from the heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that encourages abandoning liquid heating is that a permit is required for a water-heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a laborious process that requires duplication and high material consumption (but then these costs justify themselves). However, if a team of experienced craftsmen is involved in the work, then they solve all these issues on their own, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious persons is dangerous in every sense.

The negative side should also be attributed to the fact that there is a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality goods made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which exclude such problems. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Benefits of underfloor heating

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. The liquid principle of heating is the most beneficial in comparison with other types, even if a warm floor is installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings

Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy accessories for underfloor heating in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov - colmart.com.ua

How to make a warm water floor yourself and without problems

Underfloor heating is ideal for space heating, as it evenly distributes heat throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, and as an additional one.

There are two types of underfloor heating: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.

In what rooms can it be installed?

Water heated floor

Installation of a warm floor can be done in any room, but it must be taken into account that any system of warm floors dries the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem is easily solved with a humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is needed for normal sleep. Underfloor heating is great for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Room preparation

In the room where the installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, an old screed is being disassembled, under which, most likely, there will be a filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done with the aim that in case of flooding of the bath, water will not enter other rooms in the apartment. If the bathroom has waterproofing, then it can not be removed, but it is better to put it in bags for the time of work.

Preparation of risers for floor installation

If you plan to connect the underfloor heating to the central heating, then the entire riser is not necessary to change at all, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

You need to find out from the plumbers who are servicing your home what kind of riser spill. If the spill is upper, then tap 2 will be the inlet of warm water, and tap 3 will be the outlet. With the bottom spill, the placement is done the other way around.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in an underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak can occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

There are various types of waterproofing on the market, but it is best to use linocorm or similar insulation for simplicity.

Connecting a warm floor

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or a building dryer. On the walls, it should go above the level of the warm floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall in order to better solder.

Pouring a rough screed

If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will be no higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

With the help of a level around the perimeter of the room, markings are made. After that, the highest point of the plates is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made by 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, a rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the size of the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by the marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled by a long rule. With large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.

Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.

As experience shows, it is quite difficult to mix the solution and expanded clay. Expanded clay dust, mixing with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed, you will need a large amount of such a solution.

In this regard, it is better to do a rough screed in a different way.

Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base plates to the floor is large, then heaps can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the lighthouses, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After that, a welded mesh is laid down and a screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should go 4 centimeters on the walls.

Bending of pipes is carried out by a spring into which pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since it is strictly forbidden to bend the pipes. Pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Further, the fittings are attached to the risers with special collapsible connections. All threaded connections are assembled on flax, as this is the most durable material.

Trial run of the system

After the sealant dries, test run the underfloor heating. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky crane. If the system is powered by a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, the hot water tap is turned off and time is given for it to glass. After that, the first valve is closed, and the third one is opened.

Thus, the system is under pressure for several days to check the strength of all connections and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned off in reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Finishing screed pouring

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and pouring is carried out. If a worm screed was made, then it is not necessary to lay the masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is even.

After the screed has dried, use a construction float to eliminate all irregularities on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed acquires a light gray color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities, connect the system to a hot water supply riser. The ball valve is used to prevent mixing of technical and drinking water.

How to make a water heated floor: wiring diagram

How to make a warm water floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, tricks, technology

Which underfloor heating is better, water or electric - 2 factors of choice.

What do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of underfloor heating. They can be of two types:

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional type of heating are most often used:

• in a country cottage or cottage

• in an apartment building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment there are already nuances and restrictions.

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two factors:

Accordingly, your heated floors will be idle for most of the year.

First, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, you can connect, but you need to provide a sufficiently low temperature for underfloor heating. A direct connection will be accompanied by a temperature of 70 degrees and above, and this will simply overheat the flooring.

You will not be able to legally formalize your connection in any instances. And if such a fact is revealed during the check, you can easily run into a fine. Plus, they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• from heating systems inconvenient

• from DHW is not possible

Of course, you can also come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water-heated floor will just be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the ground floor.

The only option left is electric underfloor heating.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. It is possible to stop both on electric heating, and on water. But what is the best choice?

Many still in such a situation make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which supposedly have electric heated floors.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. All heating cables are shielded.

If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, most of this does not convince them that they are right.

In their opinion, for the bathroom it might also work, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be recorded about electric underfloor heating.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can make such repairs yourself, at home.

In case of damage to the heating cable of the electric mat, you will either have to rip off the entire tile and change it entirely, or call specialists with equipment for burning, and searching for a short circuit location with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline for many the choice in favor of water-heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option, however, remains only as an additional source of heat.

But the factors that can scare away from water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a collector and much more, without which electric heating can easily be dispensed with.

• constant revision work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many water floor installers earn many times more, and not only with their laying, but also with further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their customers about the dangers of electricity and warm floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• budget for installation and necessary aftercare

If there are no problems with this, then go ahead to the store for water floors.

• lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this is about you, then an electric underfloor heating is exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should I pay attention to when choosing an infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them with a very small gap, current coal paths are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at the contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire site.

The film acts as a separator between the underfloor heating base and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It won't fit under tiles. But it's perfect for:

• under the carpet

• linoleum

If a heating cable is laid under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch), you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And so you need to buy a special product labeled "for a warm floor."

This is not true. The sun heats up the laminate much more when it shines directly through the window. And nothing harmful comes out of it.

There are also concerns about the dryness of the air and the dust that warm floors inevitably raise up. Here everything depends not on the heating mode, the presence or absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Provide a regular supply of fresh air and there will be no problems. And if you clog all the windows, then you will suffocate even with central heating batteries.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with underfloor heating film:

Where is the best place to use heating cable? Where you will have a minimum screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after the builders complete the work, there can no longer be any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have is 5-6cm.

If even less, then the choice is unequivocal - only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the tile adhesive layer.

The disadvantage of an electric underfloor heating is that in addition to your room, you will also warm up the ceiling from below. At your own expense, you will also heat your neighbors.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Table comparing the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

Compare current day prices of underfloor heating with heating cable or mats and infrared film.

A cake with water floors should ideally look like this:

• pipes with heat carrier are mounted on this surface

• then in the cake there is an adhesive layer and a tile or other coating

The approximate thickness of the entire plate is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go down.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of the foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of the multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very strong and you won't be able to crush them just like that.

You can easily walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied on the reverse side, i. it is not possible to damage and corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper, which is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a warm floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either to break these walls themselves, or to break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be above the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20m2), it must be separated with a compensation tape.

Since all expansions during heating of such a concrete layer, only flanging cannot compensate.

4 The coil of a warm water floor must be from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should get into your screed.

6 If the customer and the performer are poorly versed in the preparation of solutions, then the recommended height of a full-fledged screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking, even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And finally, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If you have electricity as an energy source, at night at a cheaper rate you can “disperse” the warm floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This mode of heating is approximately 3 times cheaper than usual.

7 Do not save and add a special plasticizer for underfloor heating to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that will easily withstand temperature deformation.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to pour only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But if possible this should be avoided.

9 It is not necessary to cut any holes in the substrate to the concrete base, ostensibly for a quality hitch.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The underfloor heating slab, figuratively speaking, should "float" without connection with the base and with the walls.

10 Do not pour mortar with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.

Water or electric underfloor heating - 10 mistakes and installation rules

Rules for the installation of water and electric underfloor heating. Heating cable and film - efficiency comparison. Is el.magnetic radiation safe from underfloor heating? The thickness of the screed is 85mm, why?

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in the apartment

The popularity of heating systems, organized on the modern principle of floor heating, is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and "heat-insulated floors", having displaced the usual radiator schemes, are included in the projects of multi-storey buildings and are mounted immediately, as the building is erected. This is due to the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - there is uniform heating from the bottom up with an optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and the water "warm floor" will clearly win in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that water heating pipes have already been laid in the apartment, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. This probably explains the fact that in the top of search queries on the network on heating topics there is always one such as “warm floors, water wiring diagrams in an apartment”.

However, you must immediately warn the owner of the apartment who wants to switch to water floor heating - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the conditions of high-rise buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very versatile - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such a possibility exists. But first, perhaps, we should get acquainted with the difficulties that will inevitably have to be overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the activities that will need to be done, some apartment owners will still decide to stop at an easier-to-install and safer operation of the electric “warm floor” system.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utilities?

In the event that the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water "warm floor" system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly face a number of administrative problems.

Heating of a multi-storey building is a complex branched system, which was calculated in advance by specialists, and its possibilities are not unlimited. When designing it, the power of the boiler house or local heat point, the diameters and lengths of pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the layout of apartment wiring and radiator connections, and many other criteria were taken into account. Independent introduction of any changes in the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance, a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that the design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on a system scale. But, firstly, there are most likely a lot of people who are sorry to embed this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can be affected by a drop in the temperature of the coolant in the neighbors' radiators. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those who are looking for a reason will definitely find it, and unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the procedure of coordination with the management company or with the suppliers of thermal energy. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a lower supply, this will become the upper floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of the apartments on the first floor will be more likely to enlist permission. The selection of thermal energy for floor heating will not affect the radiators of the neighbors in the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions will not be put forward by public utilities. So, almost certainly they will demand the obligatory installation of an individual heat consumption meter.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual metering device for consumed heat energy

You may receive a proposal from public utilities to organize your heating system according to a semi-autonomous principle. In this option, the coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the "warm floor" pipes - the circuit is completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy received from the boiler. Occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat extraction can also take place through a heat exchanger

Of course, in this case, it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize the circulation of the coolant and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve the owners of the need to purchase and install a meter for consumed heat energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to autonomous heating. A similar trend is gaining popularity - the owners refuse heating and hot water services and install their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to full autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is already of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. Heat metering devices in this option will not be required - only the costs of the energy carrier - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that the problems of apartment owners will end there - they will face many technological difficulties. But in this or that way they are nevertheless solved.

The key issue is the laying of "underfloor heating" pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully passed, permission to connect has been received or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a phased solution to the problems of laying the "warm floor" contours. Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level, with the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor ceilings. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage it is necessary to deal with the optimal laying scheme, the length of the contours, the step of their laying.

Possible obstacles - raising the floor level and weighting the structure

The first thing to do is to assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after the installation of a "warm floor", and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And the increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate scheme of the water "warm floor" under the screed

• No one wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it will be necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (pos. 1), which will not allow heat to be spent almost in vain, for heating the reinforced concrete slabs of the interfloor floor.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a thermal insulation layer of 25 ÷ 30 mm of expanded polystyrene is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they are even limited to a rolled foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) with a thickness of about 5 mm. But if a cold basement or an uninsulated basement is located below, then you will have to use a thermal insulation layer of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (pos. 2). The concrete layer not only closes the pipes of the circuits (pos. 3), but also becomes an element of the entire system that accumulates and evenly distributes heat.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is imperative to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And, finally, the thickness of the floor finish itself (pos. 4) cannot be discounted. It, of course, is incomparable with the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by applying the “warm floor” laying method without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or you can make a wooden floor structure on logs, as shown in the figure:

Water "warm floor" on a wooden base without screed

Between the lags installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (pos. 1), thermal insulation material (pos. 2) is laid. Boards (pos. 3) are stuffed on top with a step that ensures the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” contour (pos. 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, drywall, etc. (pos. 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finish coat.

This method of laying somewhat loses to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can win precious millimeters of height, and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. So, you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let's go through the main components for laying the "warm floor" circuit - insulation mats and the pipes themselves.

Choice of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the ceilings in particular already have highly efficient insulation, and a well-heated room is located below), roll materials can be used, for example, "penofol".

A roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam

In this case, the laying of the contour can be carried out by tying the pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If better insulation is required, then foam polystyrene mats are used (best of all - extrusion).

Folding polystyrene foam mat with marking lines

Such a heater can be in the form of separate plates, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an "accordion" or "tractor caterpillar". Very often, a grid is applied on such products, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and with a plastic clamp

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be carried out to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used, which securely hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile foam polystyrene mats for a water “warm floor”. The protrusions placed on their surface - bosses allow you to quickly and reliably fix the contour loops without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laying, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes an excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, the creation of a waterproofing barrier and the simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates fit well in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can also be used if it is decided to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already pricked into them.

The choice of pipes for "warm floor"

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the contours are mounted for a long time, hidden by a screed and an external coating, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of pipes and their connections. Any, even a minor leak, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with a mandatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using suture technology are not allowed.
• It is impossible to place pipe connections in the thickness of the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid bay. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the inner walls. Ideally, pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide for this function.
• Thermal and mechanical strength margin. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand a pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface - to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on these criteria, VGP steel pipes are immediately excluded - they are seam, and they cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely, the temptation to use polypropylene pipes is great, as they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case, they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, the assembly of the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although well-welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, narrowing of the conditional passage is possible in these places, accumulations of solid precipitation, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a warm floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“crosslinking”, which will give the material completely new qualities. Pipes made of such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

PE-Xa XLPE Pipe Coil

The best performance indicators are for the material marked PE-Xa - they have the highest degree of crosslinking, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, you can purchase pipes from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal stability, are even more pronounced.

As if specially created for the "warm floor" - light, have good heat dissipation, allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to technology). However, one should be careful when choosing them - there are too many low-grade goods on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very resistant to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and the loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are chosen, then attention should be paid to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to the quality of the metal-plastic pipe

The best option is a pipe with PE-X-polyethylene outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

• Copper pipes

In terms of the degree of heat transfer and the durability of operation, such pipes, probably, have no rivals.

Layed copper pipe

The plasticity of the metal allows you to perform contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is a very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying the contour, and the resistance to corrosion, further enhanced by the internal polymer coating, guarantees a long service life.

Modern stainless steel corrugated pipes show themselves perfectly

In addition - this is the only exception to the rule that allows you to make butt joints under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in the bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying even longer contours.

The only drawback in using such material is the very high price.

We decide on the scheme of laying the contour

In order for the water "warm floor" in the apartment to be really effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - this is a "snake" or "snail". But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic schemes are shown in the figure:

Basic schemes for laying contours

a - "snail". It is considered the most appropriate in terms of uniform heat distribution. It has a more complex installation process.

b - "snake". It is easier to install, but it has a pronounced drawback - heat is distributed zonally.

c - a variation of the "snake" with a double entry. The distribution of heat over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced bands.

• In order to prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the contour is its laying step, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value lies in the range from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, because the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The laying step largely depends on how it is planned to use the "warm floor" - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finish coat - up to 27 ° C), while in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, finished with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 ° C.

• Heating radiators are not in vain installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This should also be taken into account when drawing up a "warm floor" scheme - to provide for a denser laying in areas with maximum heat loss - at windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the "drawings" of the contour.

The laying scheme is best depicted immediately on a scale in the drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The contour length can be calculated using the formula:

L- the length of the contour in a certain area.

k- coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, then the calculation is made at once for the entire contour. If there are selected sections with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each, and then summarize.

To make things easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of the pipes of the "warm floor" circuit

To the value obtained, the direct supply and return sections must be added, as well as the necessary “mounting ends” for connecting to the manifold.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be unlimited. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the pressure of the coolant, and the circuit will simply “close”. So, if a pipe is used Du16, then it should be limited to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with Du20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of the calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, it will have to be divided into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve an approximately equal length of both - a difference of no more than 20% is acceptable.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the "warm floor" with a screed, a technological break in the coating is necessarily made between different circuits with the installation of a damper tape into it. The same tape, to compensate for thermal expansion, should be laid along the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment necessary for the functioning of the "warm floor" in the apartment

It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all problems - they say, it remains to connect them to the supply and return lines, and everything will work right away. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to make it circulate along a long pipe circuit, it will be necessary to install special equipment - a pumping unit.
• Devices are required to release accumulated air in order to avoid gas locks.
• The pressure created in the system must be equalized in order to ensure the circulation of the coolant with the most efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and with the elimination of the possibility of water hammer.
• The temperature level in heating radiators and in the "warm floor" circuits is completely different. If in the central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and have a destructive effect on the state of the insulation screed, and lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the heat carrier in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the limits of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is required to install a special unit that will mix the heat carrier from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, therefore, the installation of appropriate filters will not interfere, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
• To visually monitor the parameters of the system - the pressure in the circuit and the temperature level, you will need the appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe in operation - without compliance with this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if it is planned to connect to the central risers, then the “heat-insulated floors” created should in no way interfere with the regular operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one will be allowed to show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the typical schemes for connecting to the central system will be offered. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical schemes for connecting a "warm floor" to the wiring of the heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last in the heating supply riser at the entrance.

An inlet valve (pos. 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system, it is not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here in order to prevent impure coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

At the outlet of the system, a check valve (pos. 2) and a shut-off valve are installed.

The temperature of the heat carrier in the "warm floor" circuits in this case is set by a three-way valve (pos. 3). This can be a device with manual setting of the required mixing level, or a more modern one with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the inlet to the supply manifold (shown by a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo

To ensure circulation, a pump (pos. 4) is installed, which, in terms of its performance and the generated pressure, must correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.

A bypass valve (pos. 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which equalizes, if necessary, pressure drops to the required value.

The collectors themselves must have air vents (pos. 6) and drain cocks (pos. 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon receipt of the appropriate permission for a tie-in to the central one), then other wiring diagrams:

The general adjustment is also made using the balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (pos. 5) provides the required pressure drop for normal circulation.

The scheme is far from perfect, quite difficult to accurately balance.

The scheme is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is “lame”.

Both the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

Installed two-way valve and two control valves.

But there is one important difference from all the previously considered schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (pos. 13) and its own “safety group” (pos. 12) in which the safety valve plays the most important role.

Expansion tank and "safety group" are mandatory if the heat transfer is via a heat exchanger

If it is planned to connect several underfloor heating circuits, then it is necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find a path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small, or, in general, will be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost impossible, which means that additional adjustment is required.

To do this, cranes are installed at each of their outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these taps will allow you to locally turn off the circuit when it is no longer necessary to use them or for maintenance or repair work, without disturbing the performance of the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold with thermostats on each connected circuit

Even better, if each of the circuits connected to the collector has its own thermostat. So it will be easier to achieve accurate temperature settings for different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the varieties of collector-adjusting units.

Schematically - the work of the collector assembly

Is it worth it to assemble such a node yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work and assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made collector cabinet - both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important in its design.

In the cabin, you can pick up a ready-made collector assembly for any layout scheme of the "warm floor"

In the assortment of specialized stores, you can find the required model, designed both for a small heating area with two or three “warm floor” circuits, and capable of distributing and adjusting many circuits laid over vast areas of a large apartment or house.

The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned so as to minimize long supply runs. That is, the center of the apartment will be most preferable.

So, in the publication, the main schemes for installing a warm floor in an apartment were considered. When choosing a specific type and calculating the parameters of the system, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter seriously affect the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in the apartment - how to choose the best

If underfloor heating is used as heating, water wiring diagrams in the apartment differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.

A bathroom is one of those areas where there is almost always a high level of humidity. That is why it uses a cladding material such as ceramic tiles. However, its disadvantage is that it is cold. That is, it is very unpleasant to become barefoot on it. That is why underfloor heating in the bathroom is a must.

Before insulating the floor with the help of floor heating systems with your own hands, you need to understand their varieties.

Water

The heating system of a water-heated floor is pipes laid in contours that are filled with a screed

This heated floor is heated from hot water (from central or autonomous heating), which passes through the pipes of the system. quite difficult to produce. Most often, pipes made of metal-plastic are used for its arrangement. After laying the structure, it is poured. After complete solidification of the solution, you can. In this case, a thermostat is used to control the temperature. The warm floor in the bathroom, which works on the basis of hot water, is safe for human health, cheap in terms of operation. But if it depends on the general heating system, then heating will be carried out only during the cold season. In addition, this option is almost impossible to do in an apartment (with some exceptions).

Electric

Such a warm floor can be quickly mounted with your own hands, without the involvement of other craftsmen. To equip the electrical structure you will need:

• special cable,
• Reflective thermal insulation material,
• Temperature controller.

Heating cable, heat-reflecting penofol substrate and thermostat

Please note that this structure will have to be filled with a screed. A warm floor based on has some disadvantages: there is a risk of electric shock if the installation technology is broken. The system also produces electromagnetic radiation. However, you can mount it yourself, and it fits perfectly under the tile.

Infrared

This electric underfloor heating differs from the previous one in that the heating elements are surrounded by carbon. They are located in parallel. This underfloor heating in the bathroom quickly fits with your own hands. It is enough just to spread the film on the base, no screed is required, the installation takes place in a layer of tile adhesive. has a small thickness, so it does not take up usable space. In addition, the radiation emitted from the film does not harm living organisms.

Pie infrared floor heating in the bathroom

Foundation preparation

Before making any underfloor heating, it is necessary to prepare the base in advance. To do this, you need to dismantle the old tile. Try to eliminate all adhesive residues, repair possible cracks and cracks. If necessary, make a rough screed. Next, it is necessary to equip a layer of protection against moisture penetration: roofing material, plastic wrap or apply a coating.

Coating waterproofing, like roll waterproofing, is made with a launch on the walls

After that, the base is insulated. This can be done with polystyrene foam. If there is a layer of foil on it, then it should be at the top. If not, then the reflector spreads separately.

Next, you need to mount the reinforcing mesh. It will not only help strengthen the cement screed, but will also become the basis for fixing pipes (cable). The thickness of this material is 3-4 mm, and the cell size is 10x10 cm.

Features of laying the water system

If you still decide to install a warm floor powered by hot water, then this process has the following sequence of actions:

As you can see, it is possible to make a water floor with your own hands, but this work is troublesome, and requires accurate calculations.

Features of the arrangement of electric and infrared floors

Electric underfloor heating is also often used in the bathroom if there is a need to lay tiles. So, in this case, the process provides for the following sequence of work:

• Pouring a rough screed, with which the base is leveled.
• Laying of heat-insulating material with a reflective layer.
• Installation of reinforcing mesh. This is where the cable will be attached to.
• Heating cable installation. Please note that metal clamps should not be used to fix it. It is necessary to lay out the cable exactly according to the previously drawn diagram.

• Installation of a thermostat. At the same time, please note that it should be located at a height of about 0.8-1 m from the floor.
• Test run of the system. At this stage, the resistance of the structure is checked. If possible, it is necessary to find the foci in which the closure occurs. If they are not, you can continue to work.
• Screed filling. In this case, its thickness is at least 5 cm.
• Additional performance check. That is, you again need to measure the resistance in the system.

Should not have voids. In addition, it should be reinforced with fiberglass. Only in this case you can avoid its subsequent destruction under the influence of temperature differences.

Installs the fastest. Its distinctive feature is the absence of the need for arranging a screed. That is, the tiles can be laid directly on the film. Such a warm floor just needs to be spread according to the scheme. It must be taken into account that the heating elements should not end up under heavy pieces of furniture. Otherwise, local overheating will occur, and the warm floor will fail.

It is important to correctly connect and insulate the infrared system. You should also take care of the correct installation of the sensor and thermostat. After checking the performance of the structure, you can lay the tiles.

That's all the features of arranging underfloor heating in the bathroom. Be careful when installing. Leave your comments on the article and finally, a video about the technology of laying heating mats:

In recent years, floor heating technology has become popular in ordinary city apartments. Underfloor heating from a heated towel rail is a budget option for a heating device, which is used in cases where the installation of a boiler is impossible for some reason.

The scheme for connecting a heated towel rail to the central heating system has a number of varieties, it is from the existing scheme that you need to build on during installation. In some apartment buildings, heated towel rails are powered from the “return” of the heating system. This option implies a fairly low temperature in the riser and heated towel rail, and in the summer, during periods of heating shutdown, the pipe cools down completely. It is better to refuse the idea of ​​installation in such houses, the system will not function correctly.

Another option is to power the heated towel rail from the hot water in the bathroom. In this case, the heating circuit will work much more efficiently, but at the same time it is necessary to correctly calculate the cross section of the pipe, measure the area and correctly connect the water floor itself. The metal-plastic pipe should be of a smaller diameter than the riser, most often the best option is D16. The water floor requires special attention during installation, especially if the installation is done by hand.

Ways to connect a warm floor with your own hands are quite simple, through the main hot water riser an additional tie-in is made to the circuit of the warm floor. The pipe goes to the floor and returns to the heated towel rail. A control valve cuts into the riser, which can be used to dose the hot water supply through the riser directly. The main flow is assumed to be through the floor contour in the room.

The floor pipe is mounted on the substrate, the bending radii should be minimal so that the flow resistance is not critical. Such a floor in the bathroom will only work with good pressure in the pipes.

To connect several circuits of a warm floor to a hot water supply system, a collector is used, through which it is possible to regulate the supply of hot water to each circuit separately, sometimes the system is supplemented with a pump for circulation, but such options can be cost-effective only in large apartments and use in more than one room.

The main advantages of the system:

• economy in use;
• durability with proper installation.

Possible problems

H2_2

Conducting a water-heated floor in this way is the exception rather than the rule. The functionality of the heating system largely depends on the readings in the general network, if the pressure drops, then the operation of the circuit will be disrupted, because the circulation of the coolant will slow down and the heating temperature will drop. If the house has frequent heating cuts, then the flooring in the bathroom will be cold. Another problem is the possibility of an emergency. If the pipe breaks as a result of a water hammer or other impact, then it will be possible to eliminate the leak only by completely disassembling the entire cake, it will be necessary to remove the tile and dismantle the screed.

Preparing for installation

When installing the structure with your own hands, you need to pay special attention to the materials; laying metal-plastic in an apartment involves using only high-quality pipes that will not break at high pressure in the bathroom. Threaded inserts should be made using reinforced fittings. The shut-off valves must be of high quality, and each node must be able to independently shut off and circulate water using a bypass. You can do the work yourself with the skills and experience of such work, otherwise it is better to seek qualified help.

Important! At the highest point of the heated towel rail coil, an air release valve (Mayevsky tap) must be provided. Its absence will air the system and the pipes in the bathroom will remain cold.

Installation instructions

Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor in a bathroom in an apartment of a multi-storey building can solve many problems. According to a typical project, the bathroom is heated exclusively by a heated towel rail, which is clearly not enough for comfortable water procedures.

Cold floors, insufficient heating of the room - all this is a consequence of an insufficient and ill-conceived heating system. Not surprisingly, many homeowners are seriously considering upgrading their bathroom heating system.

Is it possible to make water floors in the bathroom

Installing a water floor in the bathroom is a personal matter only in the case of a private house. According to the housing code, any independent change in the design of the heating system is illegal.

Neighbors' complaints about the decrease in heating intensity are the rationale for initiating a lawsuit, the result of which will be an administrative penalty and an order to eliminate the changes in a short time.

On this basis, the legality of installing underfloor heating in an apartment building is dubious at best. The Housing Code allows you to change the design and layout of the heating system, but after obtaining the necessary permits and coordination with the relevant authorities. In any case, registration should begin with a visit to the housing and communal services.

Connecting a warm heated floor in the bathroom from a heated towel rail is one of the most commonly used solutions for heating a bathroom in a high-rise building. At the same time, it is extremely important to ensure that the heating temperature of the neighbors does not decrease. To do this, you can use a two-way valve.

How to install heated floors in the bathroom

It is not so difficult to make a water heated floor in the bathroom on your own, especially after obtaining all the necessary permits to change the heating system. It is enough to follow the basic installation steps.

In the shower and bathroom in an apartment building, in most cases, a water circuit is installed without a collector. A short distance of the heated area allows you to power the circuit from the heated towel rail and get a sufficient amount of thermal energy.

How to fill the floor in the bathroom

Self-installation of underfloor heating is much easier to carry out when using special leveling, leveling mixtures. At the same time, in order to make water floor heating in the bathroom and shower, you need to take care of the quality of the screed, which must meet the requirements:

1. To withstand temperature changes - it is almost impossible to make a cement composition that can not crack after several years of operation, so it is best to opt for ready-made mixtures.
2. Maintain strength - heated floors are subjected to constant stress from changes in temperature and humidity. To reduce the negative impact, it will be necessary to lay a layer of reinforcing mesh. Fittings are especially necessary if you plan to install a ladder in the shower.

The composition of the "pie" of the floor consists of: waterproofing, reinforcing mesh, foil insulation and thermal insulation. A high-quality screed allows you to connect all four types of layers and make almost a monolith.

How to connect a water floor in the bathroom

There are several solutions for how to make and power a water floor in a shower or bath. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• From the heated towel rail - the temperature of the coolant will remain unchanged. Since in most multi-storey buildings heated towel rails are connected from the hot water return, the heating intensity largely depends on how much the coolant has time to cool.
• From the boiler - the solution has certain advantages, consisting in the possibility of adjusting the water heating of the bathroom floor. You will need to install a thermostat.
• From the central heating system - a bath with a warm water floor can be connected to the heating system of the apartment. Before carrying out work, you will need to obtain permits and make a technical project.

Common mistakes during installation and connection

For laying underfloor heating in the bathroom, everything must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Judging by the feedback from consumers and the reports of teams that have to redo and repair heating systems, the main violations during installation are:

1. Lack of waterproofing in the bathroom with underfloor heating. During the installation work, the prevention of leakage is neglected. Waterproofing is a layer that prevents moisture from entering neighbors in the event of a water circuit breakthrough. It is also necessary to waterproof the floor before laying the floor water heating system of the bathroom in a warm floor in polypropylene.
2. Lack of a work plan and laying scheme. Preliminary calculations help to perform the installation quickly and efficiently, to avoid overspending of material.
3. Performing installation work without obtaining a permit. After laying, getting approval is much more problematic.
4. Filling the screed with ordinary cement mortar. The technology for installing water heated floors in the bathroom of a private house or apartment requires the use of adhesives with the addition of plasticizers and additives. Without additives, cement eventually begins to crumble, crack and become unusable.

Heated floors in the bathroom - electric or water

Only one question remains unresolved, which warm floor in the bath is better, electric or water. Each option has its own advantages.

So, the electric floor is best laid in an apartment building. The solution does not require permits for installation. Laying requires less material costs and is faster.

Water floors are completely safe. Fire and short circuit are excluded. In an apartment building, their use does not carry an additional material burden.

Water heated floor in a residential area is now being equipped very often. However, this design is more suitable for private houses, where the heating system is separate (autonomous). But what if you need to make a water heated floor in the apartment? Here you need to consider all the nuances of the installation process. In addition, in most cases, the installation of such a design can lead to destabilization of the thermal and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments. Plus, a poorly thought-out system will be immediately identified by the inspection authorities. We will tell you more about the implementation of the correct underfloor heating system in the apartment.

Before you make floor heating powered by a hot battery, you need to consider the difficulties that the master may face:

• Temperature difference of water in the system. It should be noted that the maximum heating parameters for a warm floor are 50 degrees, while in the heating system this value is 70-90 degrees. If you connect the structure directly, the equipment may fail, and the flooring may also be damaged.
• The ban on the installation of underfloor heating in apartments with central heating. If the design is discovered by the inspection body, the owner of the dwelling can be punished with a rather large fine.
• If an elevator was used to connect the heating, then only copper pipes can be used for floor heating equipment, and they are quite difficult to install and expensive.

What alternative exists?

If there is no way to make a warm floor in an apartment powered by central heating, you can choose alternative ways of arranging floor heating. For example, electrical design.

It is quite simple to install, you can do it yourself. It also practically does not affect the heating of other apartments. Although here it is already necessary to take into account the power of the electrical network.

Electric floor based heating mats - the best solution for small areas

Another advantage of alternative electric floor heating is its complete legality. Modern thermostats make the presented design very convenient for operation and allow you to reduce. You can turn on such heating even in summer, unlike water heating, which only works during the heating period (if the system is connected to a battery, but if it is connected to a hot water supply, then you can use water floors all year round).

Options for connecting a warm water floor in an apartment

If, nevertheless, there is a need to connect a warm floor from central heating, then you need to consider all possible such designs in order to choose the most suitable one in each individual case. There are such connection schemes:

1. Direct connection of the circuit to a hot battery. In this case, the most primitive low-power pump is used. This method is considered the cheapest and easiest. However, it is the least reliable. When using this method of connecting the structure, you need to be prepared for the fact that the heating temperature will not be regulated, and the overall temperature in the riser will decrease significantly, which will negatively affect the neighbors.

   The easiest and least reliable way to connect

2. Direct connection using a balancing valve on the bypass. In this case, it is possible to reduce the temperature of the hot water that is supplied to the circuit. For installation of the system, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 16 mm and a circuit length of not more than 70 meters. In addition, increased attention should be paid to the choice of a circulation pump. It should pump up to 5-10 liters per second, and the head should be 1-2 m.

   Manual adjustment with balancing valve

3. With connection of a three-way valve. If you connect a warm floor from central heating in this way, you can significantly reduce the heat consumption of the circuits. The thermostat, which is located on the valve, makes it possible to automatically maintain the set temperature. If a two-way valve is also present in the system, then it can be ensured that with a strong decrease in the temperature of the coolant in the battery, it will not enter the underfloor heating structure.

   Temperature control circuit with three-way valve

4. With shut-off and two three-way valves. This method is considered more modern, as it allows you to adjust the temperature of the coolant in the circuits using the "return". A two-way valve is necessary in this case to avoid a situation in which the circulation pump will run idle. This will lead to the fact that it can quickly fail due to overheating. In addition, the system will "eat up" more electricity.

   The K3 valve is used to adjust the temperature of the warm floor using the return

5. With remote sensor. This circuit is most similar to the previous design. Its main difference is the presence of a remote sensor. If there is a significant excess of the set temperature value, the system will close the supply of hot coolant to the circuit. If the water in the structure is too cold, the sensor will open the valve again, through which the system will again be filled with hot liquid. Such a connection scheme will make it possible to avoid excessive cooling of the radiators. In addition, there are systems on which several sensors are installed.

One of the craftsmen tells in great detail about one of the connection options:

It should be noted that from central heating it is possible on any basis. To facilitate this process, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the concrete surface, to which the pipes are attached. If the base is made of wood, then special grooves should be made on the logs. This is how the design will be fixed.

Conclusion and Conclusions

It should be noted that a warm floor powered by central heating can be done with your own hands, however, it is advisable to follow a pre-prepared scheme. Keep in mind that installing alternative underfloor heating systems can be cheaper and take much less time.

Installation of the presented design requires knowledge and practical skills. An incorrectly configured system can lead to uneven distribution of heat in several apartments at once. Some people may lose heat altogether. Therefore, it is better to give preference to an electric heating system.

That's all the features of connecting the water structure of the warm floor. We must not forget that the use of such a system is illegal, therefore, if possible, it is necessary to make it invisible to the inspection authorities. Leave your comments, especially since the topic for discussion is very interesting. And finally, video connection through a separate heat exchanger - so to speak, the most ideal installation scheme:

Today we will consider the question of how to make a warm floor from hot water in an apartment, in particular, in the bathroom.

To ensure that the floor in the bathroom is always pleasant for the feet, they make a warm floor. The warm floor can be electric, or it can be liquid, powered by a heating system. Usually, for this, a branch is made from the heating riser or from the heated towel rail, if it is powered from the heating system.

However, in the summer, or rather, from May to October, heating in city high-rise buildings is turned off. And the warm floor, powered by the heating system, is also inactive until the heating is turned on in the fall throughout the house.

In order not to be left without a warm floor at the end of spring and early autumn, the pipes are powered from the hot water supply system. Of course, hot water is also turned off in the summer. But the term for turning off hot water is not long, and it is also not planned. So even in summer, a warm floor from hot water in the apartment will work properly and warm your feet.

How can a warm water floor in a bathroom be connected to a hot water supply system and how to do it right.

Firstly, you can contact a specialized company that constantly works with heating and water supply. The specialists of the firms will do everything without any hassle for you, from installing floor pipes and filling it with a screed, to connecting the floor to hot water and adjusting its temperature.

Secondly, you can do this whole process yourself, but for this you will need to study thoroughly all the information on this issue.

You must know where to buy all the accessories, how to prepare the concrete floor in the bathroom for the installation of a tubular floor, how to make a screed. And then, put a coating on top - usually ceramic tiles are used for this.

We buy components

To purchase all the components for the manufacture of underfloor heating, you first need to find out what the length of the underfloor heating circuit will be in your bathroom. To do this, measure the length and width of the free floor in your bathroom.

Why only free? Because you won't be placing water floor tubes where you don't walk. And this is the area on which there is a bath or shower, a cabinet under the washbasin, the area occupied by the bases of the cabinets.

In a standard bathroom, you get a rectangle with sides of 2 meters by 0.5 meters. In a combined bathroom, you will actually get a square with sides of 1.5 meters. In non-standard bathrooms, you yourself can measure the sides for free floor space.

Next, you can go to a plumbing store or a company that sells accessories for installing underfloor heating. Also, in any shopping center that specializes in goods for repairs, you will find a department where you can buy everything you need - pipes, fittings, valves. Do not forget to purchase floor mounts for underfloor heating pipes.

If you are going to power your underfloor heating from hot water, antifreeze will not run through the pipes, there will be clean hot water. This means that you can use less expensive water floor pipes, as antifreeze pipes cost a little more.

Preparing the base for underfloor heating

In order to begin the entire underfloor heating installation procedure, you will first need to dismantle the finished flooring in your bathroom. Those who had linoleum there receive a “bonus” in the form of its easy dismantling. Those who have tiles on the bathroom floor will be forced to dismantle them.

Next, the concrete base is cleaned and leveled. If you do not clean up the remnants of tile adhesive and similar sagging and bumps, your new screed will not hold firmly to the concrete base and, as a result, will crack and collapse.

We install a warm floor

Underfloor heating pipes are laid on a clean and even concrete base, which are mounted on concrete using floor mounts. The fasteners are screwed to the concrete with dowels, and the tubes are snapped into the fasteners.

Be sure to leave an excess length for the inlet and outlet pipes - this will help you at the stage of connecting the underfloor heating to hot water.

We connect and regulate a warm floor

Connection of a heat-insulated floor has to be made in 2 stages. The first step is to connect. When the floor heating pipes are just laid, fasteners, fittings and valves are installed.

This test connection should show you that the whole system is assembled correctly, there are no currents, everything is working. At this point, it will be possible to correct everything that is done incorrectly or needs to be improved.

At this stage, you will be able to assess how much the warm floor heats up, how well it works.

Attention! The screed must be poured when there is hot water under pressure inside the underfloor heating pipes.

The final temperature adjustment of the warm floor is made after the installation of the finishing coating in the bathroom.

Fill the screed

After the warm floor is installed, you can start pouring a new screed, which will hide the water floor pipes and protect them from mechanical damage. It is best to use a ready-made screed for this purpose. It has much better plasticity than an ordinary solution.

If you installed a warm floor according to the level, now you can use its top points for fixing beacons, which will show you when pouring the screed that you are pouring it strictly parallel to the ground.

Of course, it is possible to pour such a small space without beacons, but in case of an error, you will have problems with further tiling. And also with the fact that water will accumulate in the corners and recesses of an uneven floor.

After the final flooring is installed, your new underfloor heating in the bathroom is ready. It remains only to finally adjust its temperature. This is done using the most common ball valve, which regulates the flow of hot water into the floor tubes.

You can also use a mechanical thermostat that will automatically maintain the set temperature.