Laying tiles on a wooden floor. Walkthrough. Methods for laying tiles on wood in the house: dry leveling the floor, wet screed, express option How to lay tiles on wood

Very few people lay tiles on a wooden floor. Of course, such builders are familiar with all the secrets of this process. For most homeowners, however, this combination is not very desirable, since there are many opinions regarding the incompatibility of wood and ceramic tiles. The main explanation is that the wood deteriorates faster, starts to move, which causes damage to the tile laid on top. However, such consequences arise when the laying of tiles on a wooden floor was not done quite correctly.

One of the main reasons for laying ceramic tiles on such a floor is the need to provide excellent hygienic conditions in rooms with high humidity. As you know, moisture destroys the wood floor. protects the base from moisture, because some of its types can perfectly resist it.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is always carried out in a standard way.

All the differences in different cases are only in the preparation of the foundation.

In this case, preparing the base is the easiest. Preparation begins with a thorough revision of the plank floor. This process consists of removing the floorboards and assessing their condition.

Board floor revision

Also evaluate the state of the lag. If there are damaged boards, they are looking for a replacement. Before assembling all the elements into a single structure, they are treated with antiseptic substances.

If necessary, insulate the ceiling. Often expanded clay is used for this. It is covered in an even layer. Top moistened with cement mortar. You can use expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. In the second case, you should take care of . It is placed under a heater.

Insulate the floor

Next, collect the wooden flooring. To do this, align the lags with a level. After laying the boards. They are also checked for overshoots. If a board lies too low, cardboard, roofing material or fiberboard is substituted under it. The resulting surface is puttied.

After the top of the floorboards, you need to put moisture-resistant drywall. It is fixed using a two-component polyurethane adhesive. The structure can be strengthened by laying out another layer of drywall. It is created so that the seams of the underlying row are covered with sheets of a new layer.

Important: the material is placed so that there is a gap between it and the wall. Each seam must be filled with sealant.

Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, you need to prime the base.

Prime the base

To do this, use a universal primer. Next, you need to apply an adhesive compatible with GKVL and lay ceramic tiles. At the end, they take the sealant and fill the expansion joint left along the walls

If the floor is rotten and only logs remain

In this case, all the floorboards are dismantled, the logs are evaluated. Some of them must also be rotten. Bad lags are replaced with new ones.

All beams are treated with an antiseptic and set using a level.

A new wood flooring treated with an antiseptic is nailed on top.

Nailing new wood flooring

The further procedure is as described above.

There is another option. Mount additional lags. Further . The latter will be the basis for laying tiles. This option will be discussed below.

This desire can be fulfilled when the floor is above the ground or on a concrete floor. In this case, you need to do the following:

• Remove skirting boards, floorboards and dismantle logs;

Dismantle the old floor

• Clean the concrete base, remove loose cement, work out each crack or level the soil and fill in expanded clay;

Clean concrete base

• The concrete floor is primed or insulated with heat-insulating materials (expanded clay, expanded polystyrene);

Insulated with insulating materials

• Lay damper tape;

Install damper tape

• A leveling screed is poured (a cement mixture for a self-leveling floor may be suitable for this), in the case of using a cement mortar, beacons are placed before pouring the screed; after such a screed, it is desirable to fill;

Pour the leveling screed

• Wait for the screed to dry completely and start laying the tiles.

Start laying tiles

Laying tiles on a wooden floor covered with chipboard or plywood is a very good option. That is why it has become the most common. It is implemented in different ways:

• Fastening sheet wood material (plywood, chipboard) directly onto leveled floorboards.
• Formation of a new lag system and installation of plywood on them. These logs need to be placed on the finished plank floor.
• Use of ready-made sets of adjustable floors that have screw plastic supports.

Any of these methods involves using an old wooden floor as a base.

Laying in different ways

Therefore, it will not be superfluous to check its suitability, treat all parts with protective solutions and replace bad elements. The second and third steps cannot be done without disassembling the structure. Although this is additional work, at the end there is a good opportunity to assemble the structure without drops.

When there is an equal, solid foundation, proceed to one of the three methods mentioned above. The final stage of each of them is the laying of chipboard, plywood or similar sheet material. It is necessary to lay the plywood squares so that there are no cruciform joints. It is desirable that the junction of two sheets of one row come to the middle of the sheet of the adjacent row.

Coated with chipboard or plywood

Fixation of the coating occurs with the help of screws. Be sure to organize the grinding of the formed seams. After cleaning the surface with a vacuum cleaner and proceed to fill the joints with sealant. This can also be done using a two-component polyurethane adhesive.

It is worth saying that it is with this solution that you need to glue the tiles to the plywood.

Using ordinary tile adhesive will not give a good result.

Laying tiles

Before laying tiles, chipboard or any equivalent is impregnated with a primer.

Video

In this video you will learn how to properly prepare a wooden floor for laying tiles.
Thanks to this material, you will get a lot of useful information.

Photo source: stroyday.ru; bath-rmnt.com

Floor tiles are a very comfortable and durable material.Problems with laying tiles on the floor in the apartment usually do not arise.With rare exceptions, in multi-storey buildings, the base of the floor is a concrete screed.It is easy to tile on it. Cement mortars, which were difficult to handle, were replaced by adhesive mixtures.

How to tile on a wood floor

• Preparatory work

With their help, tiled flooring can be laid without even having skills. Problems arise in private homes, where wooden floors are most often equipped.

And if you can still get by with linoleum or carpet in the rooms, then it is very difficult to do without tiles in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

The use of tiles as flooring in a private house (especially in the kitchen and bathroom) is also justified by the fact that under it you can get a water or electric underfloor heating, which will significantly reduce the cost of heating the house.

The tile has a number of other advantages:

• Wear resistance - the service life of a tiled floor is several times higher than that of linoleum;
• Fire resistance - the tile does not burn, and in the event of a spark, it will not allow the fire to flare up. The quality of the coating is especially important where there will be frequent movements of people - in the corridor, in the kitchen at the stove and in the bathroom;
• Load resistance - the physical magnitude of the load that can be applied to a tile without the risk of damaging it is huge and cannot be realized in a private house. The requirements for sustainability in indoor living conditions are much lower. So, furniture on the tile can be moved without fear of damaging its coating. A heavy cabinet will not push through the tiles, like, for example, linoleum, on which a gasket would have to be installed under the legs of the furniture. In the bathroom, you can place a shower cabin on the tile;
• Ease of cleaning - unlike laminate, tiled floor tiles can be washed without fear of liquid leakage. In the bathroom, where there is a risk of accidental spillage of water, tiles reliably protect the floor.

We will study whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor, how to prevent a situation where you have to redo all the work.

To put it bluntly, a wooden subfloor is in no way suitable for placing floor tiles. The tree has the ability to "play", dry out or, conversely, rot from moisture.

What will happen to the tile in this case is not difficult to guess.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is possible only after providing a solid waterproofing layer that is not affected from both below and above.

What such a layer should consist of and how to properly lay it depends on the condition of the wooden floor.

Since we will have to make a partial dismantling, consider the components of the wooden floor.

The top layer is linoleum, carpet or laminate, under which the substrate is located. As a substrate layer, "marshmallow" can be used - a soft insulating substrate and fiberboard.

The essence of this layer is to neutralize the unevenness of the subfloor, which consists of boards laid on logs.

Preparatory work

Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to check and prepare the base. Consider three ways to carry out the preparatory work.

Method 1 - wood floor in very good condition

Using this method, you need to choose whether to dismantle the finished floor, and put chipboard on the rough floor, or put the plates directly on the finished floor.

This largely depends on the height of the ceiling (dismantling the floor will increase the height of the ceiling, but on the other hand, it will deepen the floor) and the desire of the owner of the house to dismantle the floor.

Both options are perfectly acceptable. We lay the chipboard boards so that they are on the same level. A difference of 3-4 mm is not critical if you plan to lay large tiles.

The gaps between the wall and the slab must be insulated with any sealant (you can use mounting foam) flush with the level of the slab.

Then we will treat the surface with drying oil twice or any ready-made impregnation, applying it according to the instructions. Our goal is to achieve a waterproofing film on the surface of the slab.

When heating drying oil, be extremely careful - this is a very flammable agent.

Now on the chipboard you need to apply a sufficiently thick layer of latex, on which to lay out the paint grid.

Immediately after the latex has hardened, we fix the mesh to the slab using a construction stapler or wood screws. We apply a solution of liquid glass on the surface of the plate.

It can be used according to the instructions or take water, liquid glass and coarse sand in a ratio of 1:2:2. Dried liquid glass will be the basis for laying tiles.

This method without dismantling the wooden floor can only be used if there is confidence in the quality of the subfloor.

Method 2 - wooden in poor condition - we make a screed

This method is suitable for a situation where the floorboards are still creaking somewhere, but somewhere else they have already sagged. To carry out the laying of tiles correctly, dismantling is indispensable here.

Rather, we remove the floor covering, replace the draft beams, where necessary. Align them in one level, cover with impregnation and prepare under the screed.

Since direct contact between cement and wood leads to decay of the latter and is unacceptable, it is necessary to provide a waterproof base of the screed.

On top of the leveled subfloor, we put any insulation (it can be both dense polyethylene and polystyrene foam plates), on top of which we lay a construction mesh for reinforcement.

Now we produce high-quality waterproofing of cracks in any convenient way and cover with a screed.

For screed, you can use cement mortar or self-levelling floor, depending on your preference.

Only after complete drying of the poured mortar (according to the instructions for a self-leveling floor and 8-10 days for a concrete screed), ceramic tiles can be laid.

Method 3 - a wooden floor in poor condition - we do without a screed

In order to properly prepare the floor in this case, it is necessary to dismantle the top coating, underlay and subfloor.

Since there will be a non-breathing layer of glue and tiles on top, it is necessary to isolate the logs from moisture.

We close the joint of the wall and floor below the log with a thick layer of insulation, and when it dries, we fill it with completely dry expanded clay.

Across the lag we fasten the boards of the preliminary subfloor, on which the substrate will be installed.

It is allowed to leave small gaps between the boards of the subfloor. As a substrate, you can use gypsum-fiber sheets or cement-bonded particle boards, no more than 2 cm thick.

A primer is applied to the plates twice, after which the tiling can be laid.

Preparatory work can be done in any of three ways. All of them will allow the layer below the tile to become even and hard.

Based on the situation and financial possibilities, you can think over and implement your own version of insulating the wood used for the lower floor and organizing a dense, crack-resistant pre-installation layer.

In doing so, the following principles should be adhered to:

• cement should not come into contact with wood;
• all surfaces are level;
• high-quality isolation of cracks is provided;
• the layer on which the tile is laid must be solid and not allow subsidence.

The technology of working with a wooden floor before laying ceramic tiles is presented in the video.

Selection, calculation and laying of tiles

For the bathroom, it is important to choose non-slip ceramic tiles with a grooved finish. In a small bathroom or kitchen, large tiles on the floor will visually reduce the area.

For the bathroom, floor tiles must be chosen to match the wall tiles. Calculate the required number of tiles.

To do this, we measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and decide whether we will lay it in order or obliquely.

Ordinal laying is the most economical, to calculate the number of tiles, add 10-15% to the area of ​​​​the room.

When laying diagonally, more trimmings will remain, this method is more complicated and requires certain skills.

Since the opposite walls of the room may not be clearly parallel to each other (even a one-degree deviation will significantly affect the laying of the tiles), we will derive the median angle.

To do this, mark the middle on each wall and lower the perpendicular to the opposite side.

Ideally, if the midpoint of the wall coincides with the end of the perpendicular. We will start laying from the middle to the corners, focusing on the applied lines.

In this case, all the bumps and cutting edges will either be hidden under the furniture standing near the wall, or covered with a plinth.

It is required to leave a certain distance between adjacent tiles. To do this, when laying near the corners of the tile, we insert “crosses”.

After the adhesive solution has completely dried, they can be removed, and the cracks can be filled with a layer of plaster using a spatula. After the plaster has dried, it is cleaned to smooth out possible protrusions.

If a colored, matching color plaster is used, then a thin brush can be applied along the seams with a finish coat.

If white plaster was used and this is disharmonious with the color of the ceramic floor, then it is worth using a colored grout, and then go through the top coat along the seams.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on a wooden floor are shown in the video.

As we saw in the video, laying tiles on a wooden floor is possible when carrying out preliminary work with the substrate layer.published

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If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project.

Ceramic tiles are considered an ideal material for walls and floors in rooms exposed to moisture and temperature changes. These are, as a rule, kitchens, bathrooms, baths. True, the very process of laying it is fraught with certain difficulties, due to the need for an appropriate foundation and some experience of such work with a home master. As for the second, skillful hands and a desire to carry out the plan will come to the rescue at all costs. But regarding the foundation - a moot point. One cannot do without proper knowledge, all work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of the technological process, non-compliance with which is fraught with the fact that as a result the floor covering will turn out to be of poor quality and will not be able to perform the necessary functions. In principle, today, self-repair is an occupation, one might say, even fashionable, so that many home craftsmen have at least rudimentary knowledge in this regard regarding the technologies for carrying out certain works. Nevertheless, sometimes there are situations that baffle the originality of the question. For example: "Can I lay it on a tile?" Agree, this will not come to everyone's mind, because, as a rule, laying ceramics is usually carried out on a concrete base. And not for wood. However, sometimes there are still situations when it is literally vital to lay tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathhouse, for example, or in the kitchen of a private house. What to do in this case? Is it just a whim of the owner who does not understand anything in the finishing work, or is this really possible? Let's try to answer this difficult question. So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

About the compatibility of ceramics and wood

In principle, here you can get by with just a few words. These two materials are practically incompatible. And it is possible to “make friends” between them only by creating special conditions. The tree cannot stand the instability of the temperature background, constantly changing its dimensions with its changes. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen to ceramics, under which, so to speak, sawn timber lives its own, special life, being in constant motion. The tile, of course, will begin to crack, move away from the base, chips will appear on it under the influence of loads. In turn, a tree tightly “packed” under ceramics will not be able to receive much-needed air, which will begin to rot and deform. In general, it turns out a kind of vicious circle. Can it be broken? How to lay tiles on wood or in the kitchen of the owner of the same private house, who can no longer watch without tears how his wood flooring becomes less and less attractive every day from constant exposure to moisture or temperature changes? Let's just say: it can be done. But you need to do it only if there are really good reasons, because the procedure for preparing a wooden base will take a lot of time, in addition, it will require very substantial expenses, effort and money. Ready to part with both the first and the second? Well, good luck. As they say, nothing is impossible. If you really want to, why not try it. True, you will have to thoroughly study the technology of the process and choose the option that is suitable for your case.

When the procedure is not possible

Our home masters are sometimes quite capricious and stubborn. A person needs ceramic tiles on a wooden floor - and that's it. And the last one was mounted quite recently, the house was almost settled the other day. Here is the option when, unfortunately, you will not be able to please yourself. In any case, such an undertaking will have to be abandoned. Because a new wooden flooring will acclimatize for at least three years, getting used to unusual conditions, and shrink, the end of which you will certainly need to wait. And only then to carry out the plan.

A few words about the base

So, what does someone who sets out to lay tiles on a wooden floor have as an asset as a base? We have already said that the new coating is not subject to such arrangement. This means that the home master will most likely have three types of flooring as a base. These are worn out and lost attractiveness boards lying on relatively strong logs, a floor made of plywood or fiberboard, which also causes despondency in its appearance, but still amenable to reincarnation, and a relatively strong plank flooring that is in a normal state, on which tiling is required due to existing circumstances. Regardless of which option is available, the home master will have one task: to create a strong and even base suitable for laying ceramics. The difference will be the type of repair work and their volume. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor - in the bathroom, bath, hallway, in the kitchen, it doesn’t matter - you need to carefully study the existing base and choose the appropriate method of preparation. As a matter of fact, there are two of them. This is dry leveling and wet leveling. But in any case, you need to remember one thing: laying tiles on a wooden floor without a screed and careful preparation of the base will not work. As a matter of fact, difficulties, especially those created with one's own hand, will have to be overcome in any case. And to make it easier for the home craftsman, then we will tell in detail about all the preparation options.

Dry leveling

Its principle is to create an additional draft layer for cladding on an existing base. This can be done by mounting sheets of plywood - necessarily moisture resistant - directly on the existing "native" base, creating an additional floor covering on the logs with a gasket between the old and new insulation floor and using ready-made sets of adjustable floors mounted on top of the existing worn out base. In addition, today there is another material at the disposal of those who want to lay tiles on a wooden floor - GVL-plates. They will not only successfully replace plywood, but also, thanks to their special composition, will contribute to the creation of a normal microclimate for base boards.

Pros and cons of the dry method

This option for tiles is considered the most common. Which is not surprising, since it has a lot of advantages and only one drawback. The first is primarily the speed of work. You can level the floor in this way quite quickly, without interruptions between stages, which most often slow down the repair process. In addition, if the option with lags is chosen, then by laying a heater, it is possible to significantly increase the insulating qualities of the surface. Well, the third plus is the creation of a minimum load on the already not distinguished by special quality characteristics. As for the minuses, as we have already mentioned, there is only one - this leveling method “eats up” the height of the room. Therefore, in rooms with low ceilings, it is sometimes impractical to use it.

wet way

In fact, this is the same screed, the difference of which is that it is made on a wooden surface and with some reservations. The latter include the fact that, firstly, it should be lightweight (no more than three centimeters) due to the not very good condition of the wooden floor and its inability to bear significant loads, and secondly, it is made not over the entire surface, but with gaps along the perimeter. Such a kind of floating option. Thanks to this trick, the ceramic coating will not suffer from the movement of wooden elements, which in any case cannot be calmed down in any way.

Advantages and disadvantages of the screed

Here, in principle, everything is rather conditional. An undoubted advantage of the method can be considered that it will practically not affect the height of the room, and a huge disadvantage is that the procedure itself is quite lengthy, requiring significant breaks between stages. But sometimes someone who is looking for an answer to the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor does not have to choose. If a screed is the only acceptable option, then you will have to put up with temporary losses.

Well, now that we have dealt with the theory, let's go directly to the process itself.

Preparing the old floor

Whatever leveling method the home master prefers, the old plank base in any case requires preparation. Laying tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, and even in a room less exposed to moisture, will not succeed without preliminary repair and cleaning of the base surface.

First of all, you need to check the integrity of the floorboards and the lag itself. If any elements have become unusable, they must be replaced. Then you need to remove all the paint. If you plan to make an additional floor covering on the logs, then the basic leveling is not required, but if plywood, GVL, chipboard or a wet screed is used, you will have to arm yourself with a grinder and diligently cut off all the humps. Then the old floorboard should be treated with an antiseptic and the existing cracks should be puttied if possible. And then be sure to drill the ventilation holes. And only then proceed to alignment.

Leveling process without screed

In principle, there is nothing complicated here. If an additional floor covering is created on the logs, then first the supports are installed with a step between them of 30 cm, then a heater is laid, after which everything is sewn up with moisture-resistant plywood. If it is planned to level the prepared plank base simply with plywood or GVL sheets, then they are attached directly to the base surface with self-tapping screws. All resulting seams and cracks around the perimeter must be sealed. Foam is excellent for these purposes. Upon completion of the installation work, the new surface is primed. Experts advise not to save money and purchase Betonokontakt.

Note!

Important point! If the master decided to put the tiles on the wooden floor in the bath with his own hands or in the bathroom, that is, in those rooms that are most exposed to moisture, then before leveling it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the plank surface. It can be thick polyethylene, and bituminous paper, and roofing material.

Filling the screed

In this case, regardless of the room in which the work is carried out, a waterproofing layer is required. After that, a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, and along the perimeter of the room, the sides are mounted from a special tape, which in the language of specialists is called damper. Remember, we mentioned that the screed should not be monolithic, but floating? This limiter will create the necessary conditions. After that, you can fill in any suitable mixture for the screed. It is best, of course, to take a leveling composition. After drying (at least two weeks should be taken for this process), the surface is primed. At this point, the question “is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor” is considered closed. Now you can. What, in fact, is the time to proceed after the primer has dried.

Laying tiles

So, on a wooden (see photo of the final result below) floor? Yes, exactly the same as the usual for everyone Now, after competent preparation, there will be no problems. The only nuance that you should pay attention to: it is better to buy tile adhesive not ordinary, but more durable, designed for porcelain stoneware.

Choose the laying scheme that you like the most (traditional, diagonal, brick, etc.) and start the process. If a diagonal is selected, then start from the center. If there is another way, then from the most prominent angle, so that the trimming is not noticeable. The adhesive composition is applied directly to the base, the rows are laid strictly under level control. Try to keep the adhesive layer not too thick, as it creates an additional load on the already insufficiently strong base, which is the wooden floor. After laying, grouting is carried out. You can do this a day after the end of the whole process.

Conclusion

What can be the conclusion? As we found out, it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. The main thing is to competently carry out all the necessary preparatory work and create a reliable and even base for the tile.

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. The advice of experts will allow you to take into account all the important points in the installation process and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.

1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

• If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
• In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.

2. Preparation of the base for facing

When thinking about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.

Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The meaning of this method is to use a grinder, or an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of sandpaper. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. The main advantage of mechanical action is the possibility of cleaning large enough areas.

. Thermal way.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. It is necessary to keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.

Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.

. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. The paint is impregnated with a chemical composition, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.

Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil of warm temperature, or with another composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If spots appear on the outside of the tile, then a slight moistening of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do I need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

• Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;

• Dry screed . This method is the most popular, because it allows you to create not only an even, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
• Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying tiles

The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

• On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. The center of a large wall is measured and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
  
• The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room if the room is a rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting layout option, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls as much as possible.
  

  The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.

• The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
• Under the condition of a flat surface (differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is enough that the layer is less than 5 mm, because the adhesive composition only serves to adhere the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.
  

  It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.

• You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of ​​the floor treated with glue.
  

• The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.
  

  The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.

• We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.

• After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
  

  There are collections of floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.

• A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
• If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.

Tiled flooring for the kitchen and bathroom is practical and durable, but is it possible to put tiles on existing wooden floors without resorting to large-scale construction work? The answer will be positive. In this article, we will study in detail all the nuances of the "cooperation" of such different materials.

According to their characteristics, wooden coatings at first glance are completely incompatible with tiles. Wood during operation is not static. Even floors made from well-dried and treated boards still shrink for another 2-3 years.

Daily temperature and atmospheric fluctuations lead to the fact that the surface "plays" - either expanding or shrinking. These processes go unnoticed by a person, which cannot be said about the tile: it can peel off, crumble, literally burst at the seams.

In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to study the causes that affect the deformation of the ceramic coating and, if possible, eliminate them.

The main factor in the stability of the tile coating

Much attention when laying tiles is paid to the preparatory work. The aesthetic appearance of the finished coating and its further performance characteristics depend on how well the surface is prepared and leveled.

We have already found out that wood is not a static material, so our main task is to make a universal surface that will be the basis for laying. This basis should “reconcile” two different coatings, then the main factor in the stability of the tiled coating will be observed - static and strength.

Advice! You can not lay tiles on "fresh" floors - the shrinkage period is at least 2-3 years from the time of installation.

Preparatory work: checking and

Before creating a stable base for tiles, you need to revise your wood flooring. Then create a multi-layer cake from existing and additional materials, which will preserve the solidity of the floor covering, provide ventilation to the wooden parts of the structure and minimize the load on the wood.

Important! We can not do without parsing the wooden structure. Regardless of the external condition of the upper boards, they must be removed and the damaged elements replaced. If necessary, shorten the laying step of the lag and align them horizontally with a level. Antiseptic treatment of all wooden structures is required.

Stages of work

Step #1 We remove the wooden coating, having previously cleaned it of paintwork.

Important! If the condition of the boards is deplorable, skip this step, they are still unusable.

There are three ways to speed up the process: chemical, thermal and mechanical. They are all quite time consuming, so choose the one that is acceptable to you.

1. The chemical method consists in treating the floors with a special reagent that dissolves varnish or paint.
2. Thermal method - heating the surface with a building hair dryer. After that, the paintwork is removed with a spatula.
3. The mechanical method of removing varnish or paint is done using a power tool: a grinder with a special nozzle, and then with a grinder or just sandpaper, the surface is sanded.

Step #2 We check the condition of the beams and the log.

Replacement of damaged items is required. After that, horizontal alignment is carried out.

Step #3 Antiseptic treatment.

Do not spare money for this procedure - good antifungal products are not cheap. It is necessary to process strictly according to the instructions, observing the time interval and the number of coatings. Perform the next step only after complete drying.

Step #4 Expanded clay insulation.

Expanded clay should be taken small fraction. The entire space between the lags is filled. For natural ventilation, a gap of 5 cm is left (the distance from the bottom of the log to the insulation).

Indicators	10-20 mm	5-10 mm	0-5 mm
Bulk density, kg/m3	280-370	300-400	500-700
Crushing strength, N/mm2 (MPa)	1-1,8	1,2-2	3-4
Grading, %	4	8	0
Frost resistance 20 cycles, weight loss of gravel, %	0,4-2	0,2-1,2	not regulated
Percentage of crushed particles, %	3-10	3-10	No
Thermal conductivity, W/m*K	0,0912	0,0912	0,1099
Water absorption, mm	250	250	290
Specific effective activity of natural radionuclides, Bq/kg	270	270	290

Step #5 Rough coating laying.

If the floorboard is in good condition, then it can be used as a rough finish. We fix it with galvanized screws and putty. A gap of 1 cm must be left around the perimeter, which is filled with mounting foam.

When the board is unsuitable for further use, then moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard treated with special impregnation will play the role of a rough base. Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, technological gaps are processed with foam.

Now you need to create another layer of "sandwich" - a strong and stable surface on which the tiles will be directly glued. There are three ways to create a base:

• Express method;
• "Dry" leveling method;
• Cement-concrete screed or "wet" method.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them in detail.

Express method of surface preparation

This method is best used on wood floors in good condition or with minor imperfections.

You will need sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, which will be fastened with screws to draft boards in two rows. GKVL can be glued to wood using polyurethane glue. Its two-component composition is strong enough, so the glued sheets will practically not be affected by wood.

Main advantages:

• fast and cheap installation of the structure;
• good resistance to temperature fluctuations of wood.

Important! At the stage of preparatory work described in the relevant section, when leveling the surface using the express method, you can not fill up the insulation. This will significantly reduce the time to complete the work and reduce the cost of their cost.

Main stages.

"Dry" method of leveling the surface

The key task of the method is to create the most stable draft layer from moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB. These wood waste materials are more static than wood due to the binders used during manufacture.

Advantages:

• increase insulating properties due to the laying of an additional layer of insulation;
• execution time is significantly reduced due to the absence of work requiring technological waiting.

Disadvantages:

• this method of leveling the surface involves raising the height of the floor, which is undesirable in rooms with initially low ceilings.

If the ceiling height allows you to use this method, then keep in mind that the difference between the leveled and unfinished surface will be visible. You can visually hide this nuance by equipping a small step or threshold.

Step-by-step instruction

First stage. Laying the insulating layer.

After the floorboards have been treated with latex impregnations, a masking net is laid and attached to them. Along the perimeter of the room, it is overlapped to a height slightly higher than the level of the future screed, and is fixed on top with a wide edge tape.

Second phase. Pouring dry mix.

The dry leveling mixture consists of fine fraction expanded clay, expanded clay sand and other additives. The mixture must be carefully and evenly distributed over the surface.

Third stage. Laying sheets of chipboard or plywood.

The material is laid in two rows using the “brickwork” method: the seams between the sheets should not match.

Fourth stage. Sanding and priming.

Sheets of plywood or other wood-based panels must be sanded along the seams. The joints are filled with sealant and covered with a primer layer.

"Wet" leveling method

The method of leveling the surface with a "wet" method is similar to the usual preparation of the screed before laying the tiles. The difference is that the layer of leveling compound is much smaller than usual, since the load force on wooden coatings is limited by their characteristics.

For pouring, self-leveling polymer or cement-sand mixtures are used. Choose products from trusted manufacturers so that the performance of your floor does not deteriorate in the end.

Advantage: with this alignment method, you will get a “floating” screed that will be resistant to the “whims” of wooden structures.

Main limitations- this is increased labor costs and an increase in floor height. The financial component of the issue is higher than in the previous methods.

Stages of work.

Step #1. Strengthening the wooden structure.

If the distance between the lags is more than 500 mm, then the preparatory work will include, in addition to revision and replacement of damaged parts, strengthening the structure with additional wooden beams.

Step number 2. Install the intermediate flooring from the floorboard.

For this, you can use boards that were in use, if their strength leaves no doubt, and the thickness is at least 40 mm. The boards are attached to the logs with a gap for ventilation (10 mm).

Step number 3. Installation of the main flooring.

Chipboards or plywood are attached perpendicular to the draft boards. The thickness of the material must be at least 12 mm. Laying method - "brickwork" with gaps between the plates of 2 - 3 mm.

Step number 4. Waterproofing.

We create a good insulating layer of paper, oiled or impregnated with paraffin, a thick polyethylene film. It is necessary to carefully line the entire floor surface, as well as the perimeter of the room to a height along the wall of 10 cm and above. The material is overlapped and carefully fastened with double-sided tape. An insulating wide tape is glued around the perimeter.

Film floor waterproofing

Step number 4. Fill in the self-leveling compound. The layer thickness should not exceed 10 mm.

Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the package. Distribute by gender. After the composition has hardened, you can start gluing the tiles.

Some builders, in order to save money, have gotten used to making floor levelers on their own. For its preparation, purified sand and liquid glass are used in a ratio of 2: 2. The mixture is brought to the desired consistency with purified water.

Name. Short description	Packing kg	Consumption kg/mm/m2	Price	Strength MPa	Layer thickness in mm
ALFAPOL VP - self-levelling self-leveling floor M200 F200 Pk5 W12 on a cement basis	25	1,75	375-471	20	2-40
REAL Floor leveler, High-quality cement-based dry mortar	25	1,7	360	20	2-80
Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT MEDIUM, self-leveling floor for the final leveling of horizontal surfaces, ideal for further installation of any floor coverings (ceramic tiles, parquet, carpet, linoleum)	25	2	289-324	20	6-60
Forbo Eurobond 915, fast curing screed, low shrinkage, self leveling, fast drying. Suitable for underfloor heating. For indoor use incl. in damp rooms. Withstands load from furniture on casters.	25	1,7	405	20	3-50
Petromix PS, for leveling floors on concrete and other hard substrates in dry, wet and damp areas. Serves as a base for floor coverings (parquet, ceramic tiles, textile carpets, plastic coatings, linoleum, etc.)	25	1,5	441-471	25	2-30
Founds T-42 Niplain, Self-levelling, high-strength, moisture-resistant, non-shrinking cement-sand-based leveler with the use of special chemical additives.	25	1,7	342-433	25	3-30
Ceresit CN 178, for the manufacture of screeds operating under conditions of low and moderate mechanical loads, incl. with constant exposure to moisture (in residential and public buildings, on roofs, balconies, terraces, open areas, etc.), during external and internal work, in civil and industrial construction.	25	2	370	35	5-80
Vetonit 4100 cement-based mixture for leveling concrete floors indoors	25	1,6	520-537	20	2-30
vetonit 4150 is suitable for quickly leveling concrete floors and creating screeds in homes, offices and public buildings. It is applied to repair and new construction under various types of floor coverings. Used in underfloor heating	25	1,6	520-550	20	2-30
Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT FINAL, cement-based self-levelling floor for perfectly smooth surfaces. For rooms with normal and high humidity (bathroom).	25	1,8	435-490	20 If you are on a tight budget, then the last styling method is the most economical and advantageous in terms of trimming. Important! Before gluing, you need to make a trial laying on a dry one - this will help you choose the best way of laying. Installation process step by step Now you know that laying a tiled floor on a wooden floor is a doable task, but whether the game is worth the candle is up to you. Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floor Video - Laying tiles on a wooden base