How to trim the wide slopes of the front door. We make slopes on the front door: plastering, installation with and without a frame. Technology for finishing slopes in the front door

Already in the apartment. Reliability, safety, high-quality protection that protects against heat loss and all kinds of external sounds and noises is provided. Now it remains only to bring the marafet. From the outside, entrance doors are most often ennobled with platbands or sealed with mortar by the installers or independently during installation. From the inside, everything is much more deplorable. Bare concrete, bricks, door fastenings are visible. It is necessary to organize slopes to hide all this disgrace. Finishing the slopes of the front door can be done by installers, however, not every company undertakes this. In this case, you will have to do this work yourself. The process itself is not particularly complicated with any method of forming slopes. Below is just a detailed instruction on how to make slopes with your own hands.

Ways to perform slopes

The main purpose of the slope is to give a normal appearance to the doorway and securely cover the fasteners of the door frame, thereby increasing the burglary resistance of the entire structure. There are several ways to form slopes:

grouting and plastering;
gluing with a solution of finishing material;
frame sheathing with finishing material.

The division is made precisely according to the method of slope formation, because the materials for sheathing can be selected in a wide variety of ways: laminate, MDF, drywall, plastic panels, wooden lamellas, cellulose panels and much more. The main thing is to decide how to fix the slopes of the front door with your own hands.

Filling the entire slope with mortar is the most acceptable option in terms of protection and soundproofing. Moreover, the result is a slope that does not bend, has no voids. However, this option is somewhat constrained in the design sense. Alternatively, you can decorate the slope with textured plaster and paint.

If, in addition to filling with a solution, you also mount various finishing materials, then you can achieve absolutely any appearance. So this option, when fully executed, combines the advantages of the first method and does not actually have any disadvantages.

Without good slopes, even the most luxurious door loses all its appeal.

The third way, how to slope the front door, involves mounting a finishing material, such as MDF, drywall or plastic, on a pre-built frame made of wooden bars or a metal profile. This option is ideal in the case when an unacceptable amount of solution is spent on the formation of slopes in another way to completely fill it. As a result, money is saved, and it is possible to make the slope the most aesthetic. Moreover, with a frame structure it is easier to achieve evenness and comply with all levels, which is not unimportant for visual perception.

This version of the slopes is great for installing lighting and switches directly in or above the doorway. So it will be possible to illuminate the hallway directly at the entrance to the apartment. In addition, with a frame construction of slopes, it will be easier to later carry out such communications as wired Internet or cable TV.

Preparatory work

For any method of slope formation, the preparatory stage is the same. Before any work, the door leaf and the door frame should be pasted over with film and masking tape so as not to damage. First of all, all especially protruding parts are combed out, which may interfere with the installation of the frame of the future slope or will protrude above the level of plastering. Then the entire surface is swept and primed. It is better to use a deep penetration primer. Only if the wall is made of foam concrete or similar loose material, a surface primer is used.

At the preparation stage, it is also possible to lay a power cable to connect a switch that will light the lamps in the hallway. If you plan to use the option with frame fastening of the slope, then it is better to postpone the laying of the wire until the frame is already installed.

Tip: For clarity, display the outlines of the future slope on the floor. Subsequently, it will be easier to navigate by these labels.

Slope plastering

Beacon profiles are installed on the prepared and primed surface. With their help, it is easier to bring a flat surface to the applied solution. Beacons can be fixed with mortar. It is better to use a gypsum mortar, it sets quickly and it will soon be possible to proceed to the next step.

Put small piles of mortar in two or three places along the length of each end and install beacons. Using a bubble level, adjust the position of the beacons in one plane.

When the mortar under the lighthouses has hardened, you can begin to fill the slope with a cement-sand mortar. Cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 4 and thoroughly mixed with a mixer nozzle inserted into a drill at low speed. The solution should be similar in density to the curd mass. You can add some plaster.

Using a trowel and spatula, apply the solution to the slope of the doorway and align with the beacons. As soon as the solution dries, and this is not less than a day, you can start applying the starting and finishing putty. The dried finishing putty is finally compared with an abrasive mesh. After that, you can open the slope with paint.

Formation of a slope with a finishing material for mortar

In this case, materials such as drywall, MDF, plastic slopes, etc. are reinforced with a cement-sand mortar or adhesive. The surface has already been prepared: leveled and primed.

It is best to mark the level of the future slope and provide a normal stop for the skin material. To do this, screws are screwed into the wall so that their caps form one plane. At the same time, the thickness of the sheathing material is taken into account, because it will rely on the caps of the self-tapping screws. After that, you can fill the entire space of the slope along the perimeter with a solution.

For reliability and for the sake of economy, a cement-sand mortar is used as the first layer, which forms a layer slightly smaller than the height of the supporting screws. Next, an adhesive composition is selected that is suitable for your sheathing material. The adhesive solution is applied evenly over the surface of the slope and onto the strips of material from the reverse side.

Carefully attaching sheets of material to the slope, they must be pressed down until they rest on the caps of the self-tapping screws. The correctness of the installation is checked using a level, if necessary, you can correct the position while the solution has not yet set.

If there is a gap between the sheathing sheets and the wall, it must be sealed with mortar. After that, you can attach the platbands, if any.

Video: the nuances of the primary finishing of the slopes

Mounting slopes on the frame

Even though the mortar will not be used, the entire surface of the wall under the slope should still be primed. This will prevent it from crumbling over time. Next, the parts for mounting the frame are prepared.

As a material for the frame, you can use wooden bars and slats, or a metal profile, which is used for the construction of plasterboard walls and ceilings. Considering the thickness of any of these materials, care should be taken to level the wall on which the frame will be mounted so that the frame elements fit snugly against the wall.

The frame elements should be fixed with plastic dowels and impact screws of the required length. Along the entire perimeter of the doorway, two rails or profiles are attached in parallel, placing them on both edges of the future slope. To strengthen the structure between the main load-bearing elements, jumpers are fixed. This is especially important at the corners between the sides of the doorway and the top.

Before sheathing the frame, you can just start laying the cable to the installation site of the switch.

The fastening of the skin is somewhat different for each type of material:

Drywall

It is enough to fix it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the slope. The gap between the drywall sheet and the wall is filled either with a mortar, or rather wide trims are mounted. The edges of the plasterboard slopes are reinforced with special perforated corners. The joints between the pieces of drywall are sealed with sickle construction tape. The entire surface is puttied and compared with a grater with the finest abrasive. After that, you can paint the slopes or paste over with wallpaper.

MDF

This material has, undoubtedly, the best aesthetic qualities, and besides, greater strength and wear resistance than other materials. The elements are fastened with small nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. The main thing is that each type of fastening does not interfere with the installation of the following slope elements. Corners and attachment points are closed with platbands or corners, which are glued throughout the structure with liquid nails.

MDF is the most demanded material for slopes, and the maximum number of ready-made solutions is produced from it. Therefore, the installation of such slopes is usually the simplest.

Laminate

Strips of laminate can be laid both across and along the ends of the doorway. When laying transversely, it is enough to fix the first lamella to the frame from below along the edges. Subsequent elements are installed with the lock snapping into place. Be sure to fix the last lamella. All intermediate ones can be fixed, for example, through one or even two elements. On the upper horizontal slope, all laminate strips must be fixed at the edges. The longitudinal strips of the laminate are attached at least in three places: along the edges and in the center.

Plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed, as well as plastic lining, in almost the same way as laminate. Since this material is less durable than laminate, it must be fixed more often. The fact that near the front door the material will be subject to heavy loads and frequent impacts is taken into account. Therefore, the fastenings of the strip of plastic sheathing of the slopes are located every 10-15 cm.

Having seen enough of the new, just installed door, we come to the conclusion that, unfortunately, the work did not end there. From the outside, everything looks quite luxurious and beautiful, which cannot be said about the corridor of the apartment. Bare concrete or brick walls and mounting foam are far from pleasing to the eye. In order to fix this, it is necessary to complete the work on the front door with a beautiful finish on its slopes.

The problem is that there are several options for solving this problem, but this article will help you choose the right materials, as well as explain how to properly install them yourself.

So, here basic finishing methods:

MDF panels
Drywall
Plaster

In order to choose the option that is right for you and the interior of your home, we will consider separately the disadvantages and advantages of each of them.

Finishing door slopes with MDF panels

As we know, most often entrance doors are made of wood, and often manufacturers offer us to purchase MDF door frames. This material has a number benefits, here are some of them:

Easy to install will save a lot of time, effort and nerves, which is important.
High strength. Sheets are practically not deformed.
MDF is resistant to the development of dangerous microorganisms.
Applies to emission class E1, which means that this material practically does not exude phenolic compounds.
The work done with MDF sheets looks very presentable.

It is because of these advantages that MDF has now become one of the most sought-after materials. However, he has one drawback. It is not always possible to choose the finish to match the color of the door due to small range of colors.

Required materials and tools:

Step 1. Using a puncher and dowels attach wooden slats along the inner and outer edges. MDF panels will subsequently be attached to these rails, so they need to be installed evenly, using a level.

Step 2. So, to the resulting frame, start fasten panels. Clamps and small carnations will help you with this. The edge panel must be screwed through with screws to the corner bar.

Step 3. With the help of liquid nails and decorative corners (platbands can be used), we "hide" the corners of the panels.

Now we will consider the classic processing method that is best suited specifically for the front door. So let's look at it pros:

But along with the advantages, there are also minuses:

Your apartment will have lots of dirt and debris If you choose this finish, you can't wallpaper until you've completed the door.
Building mixtures dry for a long time, so finishing work will take time, about 2-3 days.

Required tools and materials:

Building rule.
Masking tape, beacons.
Cement, sand, primer.
Putty, spatula, trowel.
Level, sandpaper, brush.

Step 1. Fully prime the wall to prevent fungal growth. To do this, dilute the primer as indicated on its package and apply it to the wall in an even layer and wait until it dries.

Step 3. Mix cement with sand (ratio 1 to 4). This solution needs close the deepest places and potholes. After waiting for the solution to dry, take the rule and level the slope. To do this, distribute the solution over the beacons. Do the same with the rest of the slopes.

Step 4. Wait until everything is dry. Putty the slope and rub the putty with the finest sandpaper.

Step 5. Tape the doorway wallpaper or paint.

Finishing slopes with drywall

This type of finish is very easy to confuse with plastered slopes, but there are still differences. Chief among them is no dirt. Also drywall is easy to use and durable. To improve thermal insulation, you can hide a heater in it.

Of course, it was not without drawbacks. The thing is that drywall sheets can't take hard hits because they are very fragile. But despite this minus, drywall remains a good option. And now we will study, perhaps, one of the easiest ways to finish the door slopes with drywall.

Required materials and tools:

Drywall.
Rule level.
Perforated angle (metal angle).
Stationery knife.
Putty.
Glue for drywall.

Step 1. From drywall sheets cut out the pieces you need.

Step 2. Dilute the adhesive as indicated on the package and apply it to the back of the drywall. Don't feel sorry for the glue.

Step 3. Put the paper on the wall and press down harder while leveling it. Repeat the operation on the other sides.

Step 4. Wait until everything is dry and cut off the excess drywall with a knife. With a stapler, putty and glue attach perforated corner.

Step 5. Putty.

As we can see, there are many options for decoration and design. You just need to understand yourself and choose from them those that are right for your home. I would also like to draw your attention to the quality of the materials. That is, you need to decide what is more important for you, durability or beauty? Or do you want to find an acceptable compromise? If you can do this, then a beautifully designed door awaits you. You will undoubtedly be able to do the work yourself, as the article describes simple finishes.

Slopes for laminate doors: video

Finishing the doorway only at first glance does not have any decisive importance in interior design. But sometimes it is precisely this poorly selected or installed element that spoils the whole picture, it seems foreign in the already formed appearance of the room. And it doesn’t matter if you are decorating an iron door or a wooden entrance.

There are different options for mounting door slopes, they depend on the type of material used, the technology of work, etc. If you decide to install the slopes with your own hands, everything must be done strictly according to the instructions. The materials you use must be strong, not brittle, and designed to last a long time. And it is very important that these materials cope with the insulating function.

Finishing slopes can be different:

Laminate;
Drywall;
PVC panels;
Wooden panels, etc.

The slopes themselves should not have voids. Sometimes finishing requires a lot of plaster, then it is advisable to install a frame on the slopes.

Often this is done when you have to align corners. The base of the frame can be either wooden slats or a standard metal profile, which will subsequently be sheathed. And also through the frame slopes, the necessary engineering communications are often carried out - telephone lines, power lines, etc.

Different materials: how to make slopes of the front door

The opening in the door as a result of all work should be distinguished by a long period of use, it should be practical, convenient, and it is desirable that it should not be afraid of mechanical damage. Much depends on the choice of lining. And there are plenty to choose from.

Slope cladding:

Drywall- a material that allows you to hide possible uneven slopes, putty and other solutions in this case will not have to be purchased.
Plaster- this is a practical and economical way to design slopes, you can do everything yourself, the work surface must be covered with plaster, and then you can take up the finish.
PVC panels- they are usually used for finishing window openings, but they can also be used in doorways if it is in harmony with the interior of the room.
Wooden slopes- the most popular type of cladding, wood is durable, reliable, aesthetically neutral.

Very often you can find the option of a combined finish. For example, the walls are plastered, and MDF panels are fixed on top of the plaster. And this option is practical and durable.

Instruction: MDF door slopes

First you need to properly seal all the cracks. After the door is installed, all gaps between the box and the wall itself are carefully filled with mounting foam. Then wait until the foam hardens. And its remains are then cut off with a knife, the cracks are carefully smoothed out.

Need to prepare the surface for plastering- you need to process in several layers, because the process is not fast. First, a layer of primer is applied to the wall, this is necessary to better strengthen the plaster mortar. In order for the surface to be even, a beacon profile is usually used, and it is fixed with dowels.
Then the slopes need to be plastered. We need sand, cement and lime mortar. The solution is applied, starting from the upper area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes. First, apply the putty in a thick layer, and then remove all excess, achieving evenness of the wall. And in order for the slope angles to be even, a perforated profile should be used. It is fixed with a plaster mixture.
Then a final layer of plaster is applied, it is already a thin layer. This will save the surface from minor defects.
And finally, the MDF panels are attached. The base under the panel is also made from a solution of cement and lime. When it dries, a primer layer is applied to the surface. Then the panels are divided into three parts, each should be equal to the slopes.
A layer of adhesive is applied to the surface of the wall, then the panels are applied to the wall, lines for trimming are marked on them. Details are cut strictly according to the dimensions of the opening.
Liquid nails are applied to the inside of each panel, then the MDF is glued to the frame.

The panels must be aligned, ensuring that the gaps between them are as small as possible. You can make additional fastening with self-tapping screws, they are twisted in the upper and lower parts. And the hats of those screws are hidden in hidden holes that can be drilled in advance. They are closed with decorative caps to match the panels.

Important nuances: sheathing slopes with MDF panels

Very often, before sheathing, the owners decide to insulate the doorway from the cold. Such a substrate can be made of mineral wool, synthetic winterizer, polystyrene foam, polyurethane. Today, you can also spray insulation, but this option is not cheap.

If the width of the slope is large (and this is more than 25 cm), additional supports for rigidity will be required. Foam in this case may be of insufficient density. Then you need to fix the straps.

Planks are either metal profiles or lumber. Planks can be attached both vertically and horizontally. Attach the planks to dowels or self-tapping screws, it all depends on the material of the wall. When the supports are fixed, and the MDF slopes are cut to size, everything is done as in the instructions above. The ends are smeared with liquid nails, as well as the places where the slopes adhere to the planks, the panels are peeled off for several minutes. Sometimes the junction of the panel and the wall is so perfect that the gaps do not need to be foamed.

Do-it-yourself slopes on the front door (video)

Finishing slopes is a process that requires accuracy and aesthetics of work. In order for the door portal to fit into the environment, be practical and convenient, you need to follow the work plan and not save energy on preliminary preparation for finishing.

Even the most luxurious front door will look unpresentable if the slopes around it are sloppy. They are designed to serve as a beautiful frame, complement and highlight the main element -. To decide how to trim the slopes of the front door, you need to pay attention to its style, design and color scheme. The slopes framing the entrance inside the apartment must correspond not only to the decorative parameters of the door, but also to the design of the hallway.

In addition to a purely decorative function, these elements around should also serve as additional effective insulation, since their plane closes the joints between the door frame and the wall.

Finishing the slopes in the front door can be made from different materials, or you can simply put the existing slopes in order.

1. If the door is reliable and strong, but not outstanding in design, you can simply level the slopes with plaster, strengthening their corners. Such work is usually carried out both from the side of the entrance and in the hallway.

Slopes can be neatly finished with plaster

Plastered slopes will look neat enough - they can be painted in a color close to the shade of the door itself or to match the wallpaper in the hallway.

2. In case when the walls of the house are thick enough, and the slopes are wide, you can use such familiar material as drywall for finishing. It will make the walls warmer and securely close the joints between the door frame and the wall, giving the slopes a neat look.

Drywall, if desired, can be pasted over with wallpaper or covered with paint. The advantage of this material is that you do not need to painfully level the plaster with the help of a rule, and then clean the wall.

3. You can make slopes from natural wood, if it is suitable for finishing the door. The tree has always been popular and has never gone out of fashion, it goes well with almost any interior, and its tinting can be easily changed using modern or folk remedies.

The tree will reliably serve for many years without changing its natural decorative properties. In extreme cases, it can be painted to match the color of the hallway.

4. An alternative to wood can be laminated lining based on fiberboard.

Since the lining is produced in various colors and imitates textured drawings of a wide variety of wood species, it can be matched to any hallway design. However, it is not recommended to trim the slopes on the outside of the door with this material, since it will not last there for a long time.

5. Another finishing option can be finished PVC panels. They are produced in various widths and in a rich range of colors. The production and sale of such parts is carried out by specialized companies in which craftsmen work and install panels.

One of the most successful solutions is carefully fitted PVC panels.

This finish looks respectable and aesthetically pleasing. PVC panels will last for a long time, but it is also better to install them from the side of the apartment, and from the side of the entrance, use the first or second method described above for finishing.

If you have confidence in your abilities, then the finished parts of the slopes can be installed independently.

Another option for using polymers to finish the inside of the door can be plastic lining. It is also easy to match the color of the walls of the hallway, as a wide range of this material is on sale.

6. Slopes are also sheathed with chipboard panels - they are mainly used for very thick walls. However, it should be noted that at present this method of finishing is not becoming very popular, since a large number of other materials have appeared that can easily replace these rather heavy panels in installation.

Nevertheless, if this material of the required size was found at home, then it can be used to design door slopes from the side of the apartment.

It should be noted that there are other materials that can be used to tidy up the planes around the door, but the above options are the most popular.

Tools and building materials for finishing slopes

To finish the slopes, you will need materials and tools that will help to carry out all the work neatly.

1. For plastering you will need:

primer and finishing putty for surface preparation.
plaster mix or traditional cement mortar.
perforated metal corner for leveling corners.
a sickle mesh, a clerical knife and self-tapping screws will be needed if the slopes are made of drywall.
sandpaper coarse and fine-grained.
wide and medium spatula.
a shortened rule for leveling the surface of the slopes.
a container for mixing the solution, a drill with a special mixing nozzle
plumb and level.

2. For the installation of panels made of different materials, it is necessary to prepare:

ready-made panels for installation on slopes or material for them.
decorative corners and platbands for closing panel joints.
timber with a section of 15 × 30 or 20 × 30 mm, if lining is to be installed.
dowels for attaching panels or timber to the wall.
small carnations and special holders for lining.
a drill with an impact function or a hammer drill if the house has concrete walls.
self-tapping screws for fastening panels.
measuring tools.
hacksaw or jigsaw, screwdriver, knife, hammer, etc.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to surface preparation and installation.

Technology for finishing slopes in the front door

Each type of work on finishing slopes has its own characteristics:

The installation of many of the presented materials is carried out using the same technology.
Some of the finishing technologies are distinguished by their simplicity, and with the right approach to work, they may well be performed independently.
Others can be used for self-use only if the homeowner has the necessary skills in working with building mixtures and tools.

All measures for the installation of slopes begin after the door is installed and all the gaps between the door jamb and the wall are sealed. In addition, all chipped parts of the old coating are removed from the slopes and crumbling areas are cleaned. When these works are carried out, they begin to finish in the chosen way.

Finishing slopes with plastering

If a decision is made to level and plaster the slopes, the process goes to next sequence:

First of all, the cleaned surface should be well primed, preferably in two layers, but the second time the primer is applied only after the first layer has dried.
Next, the evenness of the angles of the slopes is clarified. If deviations from the norm are determined, then this fact must be taken into account when installing reinforcing corners. They can align angles that have small deviations from the vertical.

Then it is necessary to set the perforated corners at the corners of the slopes along the plumb line and level. They are best planted on finishing putty, sold ready-made. It is applied with a spatula to the corners of the slopes - the composition will serve to glue the corner and make it possible to align it to a perfectly vertical or horizontal position. Excess mortar that comes through the holes in the corner should be immediately removed with a spatula. Having brought the corners to the ideal, the mortar under the corners is left to dry.
If the slope surface is uneven, then before installing perforated corners on the corners, you can set the direction from the door jamb by fixing a narrow strip of drywall 8-10 mm wide along it. This material is fixed to the wall with putty. If it is on a gypsum basis, then its solidification occurs quite quickly.
The edge of the drywall strip and the installed reinforcing corner will become points that need to be connected with a putty solution and leveled with plaster.
Further, after the elements correcting the wall have dried, the putty is diluted in the proportions indicated on the package to a pasty consistency.

Using a trowel, throw the finished composition onto the wall, starting from the floor. Having sketched the required amount, about a meter high, the putty is leveled with a rule. In this case, the beacons are a perforated corner fixed at the corner and a drywall strip fixed along the door frame.

Then the solution is thrown onto the next section and also leveled, and so on until the top of the opening.
The ceiling part of the opening will be more difficult to putty. Putty is applied to it with a wide spatula and leveled with a short rule. Then putty is applied to the wall above the doorway, and it closes the upper part of the metal corner.

The putty-treated slopes are left to dry. The time of this process depends on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the putty.
After drying this layer, you need to check the quality of the surface, remove possible minor flaws - chip or clean the incoming bumps. Then the slopes must be brought out with a finishing putty to perfect evenness.
Further, after drying the putty layer, it is covered with a primer.

The resulting surface can be painted, wallpapered or finished with decorative plaster.

Video: finishing door slopes with plaster mixes

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

Finishing door slopes with plasterboard

It is easier and more pleasant to work with drywall than with plastering slopes. Nevertheless, in this case, you still have to work with finishing putty, which will play the role of an adhesive for drywall sheets, but it’s still better to use special gypsum-based glue instead, which is produced specifically for working with GVL.

If space is limited, then drywall is the best fit for decorating slopes. Carry out this process in the following sequence:

To begin with, all slope surfaces are measured. separately.
The data obtained is transferred to GVL sheets, and elements are cut out according to them, which will be fixed to the walls.

Installation of finished parts begins with the ceiling of the opening. To do this, glue is applied to the drywall blank in several slides, and then this element is firmly pressed against the installation site and fixed in this position by pre-prepared supports.

Then, the slope walls are trimmed with parts cut from the GVL. Glue is also placed on the prepared element in small slides, and the sheet is pressed against the wall and measured by level. Drywall sheets can be fixed to the wall with driven dowels, making through, but not too wide holes for them with an electric drill or puncher.

At the corners of the slopes, in the same way as when plastering, metal perforated corners are fixed with putty.
Then all joints are smeared with putty, leveled, and after drying, they are carefully cleaned.
Further, the entire surface of the slope is covered with a primer.
To achieve an ideal surface, a thin (no more than 1 mm) layer of finishing putty is applied. It will finally hide all the bumps, joints and holes from the dowels.
After the putty layer has completely solidified and, if necessary, sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, you can proceed to the decorative design of the slopes. They can be painted, pasted over or covered with decorative plaster.

Drywall is fixed in another way, in the event that it is necessary to level the surface, covering a significant thickness from the wall.

Combined fastening of drywall parts - on glue and on guides

To do this, bars of the desired section or metal profiles, corners or U-shaped are fixed to the surface of the slope, thus creating crate, which will help align the wall, giving it the necessary direction. This method of fastening has the advantage that insulation material can be additionally laid between the rails fixed to the wall.

This whole structure is then covered with drywall, which is screwed to the bars with self-tapping screws. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the first variant.

Video: finishing door slopes with drywall - ceiling part

Video: continuation of the video about finishing slopes with drywall

Finishing slopes with panels or clapboard

For decoration slopes with materials that are produced in the form of rigid panels - fiberboard, lining of various types, MDF and others, a similar technology for attaching them to the wall is used. This method is attractive in that with the help of panels it is possible to align corners that have large deviations from the norm.

Work on the installation of such materials is carried out as follows:

The primed surfaces of the slopes are marked for fixing bars or a metal profile on them, on which the finishing material will be fixed in the future. These auxiliary elements are located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other if they are installed across the slope. In this case, if lining is used for finishing, it will be attached parallel to the door frame. If it is necessary for the panels to be located across the surface, then the bar is fastened along the jamb and closer to the slope angle. For a wide surface, not two, but three or even four bars are used.

You can also carry out the crate as shown in the picture - this option is used to fix the lining parallel to the door.
After installing the crate, it is recommended to lay insulation material between the bars - it can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam or one of the other modern heaters.
Further, along the crate, the selected facing material is installed. Solid flat panels are installed end-to-end with each other, while the lining is connected by a groove-thorn fastener.

Plastic and laminated lining is fixed to the bars from the side of the groove part of the lock with the help of special metal holders, which, with their protrusion, are put on the bottom shelf of the groove and fastened with small nails or self-tapping screws to the guide.

Panels of large area are screwed to the crate with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be “drowned” by 1.5–2 mm into the thickness of the material. These holes are later sealed with wood putty with the addition of a dye of the appropriate shade.
Having finished with the installation of panels, the appearance of the slopes must be ennobled with corners matched to the color of the cladding. The corners are glued on the outer vertical and horizontal corners and at the junction of the door frame and the finishing material.

Features of vinyl slopes

The most modern way to transform the slopes is the installation of vinyl panels. They can be purchased at specialized companies that are engaged in both the manufacture and installation of this finishing material. If it has a non-standard shape of slopes, then they are made to order, after measuring the parameters. The surface of the slopes can imitate many natural materials, so they can be matched to literally any interior of the hallway and the color of the front door.

The most important advantages of ready-made panels in their installation are its speed and the absence of a large amount of debris and dirt in the process. It is impossible not to say about the aesthetic qualities of this finish - it is cut exactly to the size of the slopes and has no joints and seams on the planes. The only joints that cannot be abandoned are the joints of horizontal and vertical planes. The material looks very presentable and neat.

For the installation of such slopes, a universal adhesive is used, which has the properties of firmly connecting various materials to each other, such as wood and concrete, brick and chipboard, vinyl and plaster surfaces - almost everything used in construction and decoration. In addition, they are often attached to the mounting polyurethane foam.

Such adhesives are applied to the inside surface of the trim panels and they are pressed against the slopes around the door. In this case, it is not necessary to drill holes in the facing material and walls, which can also be called an indisputable advantage of this installation technology.

By doing the work in stages and adhering to the technology, it is quite possible to independently complete the work on finishing the door slopes. Even without the opportunity to purchase material for decoration, many apartment owners use what is at hand, for example, chipboard panels from used furniture. But still, the most affordable and easy to install (except for ready-made vinyl panels) is the option using. It opens up wide possibilities for finishing decoration by almost any existing methods.

Facing door jambs at the entrance to a house or apartment performs 2 functions - decorative and protective. It not only closes the unsightly joint between the frame and the wall, but also prevents the penetration of cold from the outside through the opening. There are several ways to finish the slopes of the front door using various commercially available building materials. You can choose the right design and do this simple work with your own hands if you familiarize yourself with the common options and finishing technology described later in the text.

How to finish slopes - materials to choose from

To beautifully sheathe the opening after installing the door or in the process of repairing the hallway, you can use the following materials:

traditional plaster, painted in the desired color;
wood and its derivatives - laminated chipboard, MDF or laminate;
drywall sheets;
PVC lining and various plastic panels;
decorative stone and tiles.

It looks more beautiful when the colors of the skirting boards and slopes match the platbands

Advice. Whatever building material you choose, it is important to choose the right color for it. From the inside, the jambs must be arranged in such a way that they match as much as possible in color with the baseboards and the frame of the interior doors, as shown in the photo. Outside or from the side of the entrance, it is easier to trim the slopes - buy platbands or extensions to match the appearance of the door leaf.

If we compare different types of sheathing by price, then the most affordable option is plastic panels, and the most expensive is products made of natural or artificial stone. In addition to low cost, PVC lining is distinguished by a wide range of colors and patterns and ease of installation, since it does not need finishing. The weak point of the material is the fear of mechanical damage and deep scratches, which can be removed only by replacing damaged lamellas.

Plastic very well imitates a cut of a tree

Plastering is also an inexpensive way to build any slope, although you need to have basic finishing skills to implement it. You can plaster and paint the doorway both from the inside and from the outside. This option is relevant when the door is installed in a narrow niche and there is simply not enough space for installing drywall and any panels.

Plastered and painted opening, decorated with corners

As for the GKL sheets, their use allows you to even out the curvature of the walls, artificially increase their thickness or make slopes at the right angles. Plasterboard products are good heat and sound insulation, but require finishing work - puttying, wallpapering or painting. In addition, ceramic tiles are successfully laid on drywall.

Wooden and wood-shaving materials are a compromise solution for the price and convenient in terms of do-it-yourself installation on slopes. How nice they look in the entrance is shown in the photo.

MDF cladding

This is the most practical and fastest way to finish the door slopes in an apartment with thin reinforced concrete partitions. In such cases, the width of the jambs does not exceed 10 cm, and ready-made kits consisting of MDF planks and trims are ideal for sheathing. Of course, they should be matched to the color of the skirting boards or the pattern of the door linings.

To install additional elements, you will need additional materials:

wooden beam 4 x 4 or 4 x 2 cm
mounting polyurethane foam;
self-tapping screws up to 5 cm long;
dowels (wooden rods for hidden fastening);
metal corners with holes, such are sold in hardware stores.

Before making the slopes of the entrance door from MDF, it is necessary to cut off the mounting foam that looks out of the slots after installation, and remove the remaining plaster from the ends of the walls. After that, measure the door frame and get to work, following the instructions:

According to the results of measurements, cut the facing strips and twist them with self-tapping screws into a box - a portal. It should fit snugly against the door hatch and hide the protruding end of the wall.
From the outside of your box, fix the iron corners - 3 pcs. on the sides and 2 pcs. up and down. Put it in the design position and mark the walls opposite the corners.
At the marked points, install bars 8-10 cm long, and then attach an MDF portal to them with self-tapping screws. Blow out the cracks with foam or lay a heater inside.
Insert the dowels into the prepared holes on the box and platbands (if there are none, drill) and hammer the latter into the nests by hand. The slope trim is ready.

Advice. If the repair has already been completed in the hallway, then it does not hurt to lubricate the dowels with liquid nails or other adhesive mixture. Otherwise, put the platbands without glue so that they can be freely removed.

More visual information about finishing jambs with MDF extensions is shown in the following video:

Paneling technology

This method is suitable for any panel materials - PVC lining, laminate or chipboard. The main condition: the opening of the front door must be wide enough for the installation of frame elements made of steel profiles or wooden beams. The optimal margin of distance between the inner surface of the door frame and the end of the wall is 5 cm on each side.

Note. When buying this or that finishing material, do not forget to purchase elements for decorating junction points - starting strips, external and internal corners, connectors. You can also be creative: close the cracks in the corners with curly polyurethane skirting boards.

The order of work on the improvement of the entrance slopes is as follows:

Measure the doorway in several places and cut blanks from profiles or bars for the frame. Here you need to orient yourself in place: in one case, external vertical racks with horizontal jumpers will suffice, in the other you need to install internal ones as well.
Mount the frame by attaching the bars to the wall and door frame with dowels and self-tapping screws. At this stage, even out the curvature of the walls, using the building level and linings of different thicknesses.
Start mounting the panels by attaching the starting bar or corner. If the lamellas are planned to be typed horizontally, then it must be placed vertically and vice versa.
Install the first panel and attach its comb to the crate with self-tapping screws or a stapler if it is a plastic cladding. Insert the next element into the previous one and fix it again. Close the entire opening around the perimeter in this way.
Install and secure trim or outer corners.

Advice. When installing the crate, take care of the electrical wiring going through the front doors. Make special recesses for it or drill holes to hide it behind the front skin. It is also recommended to lay a heater in the cavity - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.

It is better not to sew up a door threshold that is subject to constant wear from abrasion with laminate or PVC products. Make it simpler and more reliable - install a wide board or fill in a small cement screed. How to finish the doors at the entrance to the apartment with laminate, is described in the next video:

In some cases, when the ends of the partitions are quite even, vinyl panels can be installed without a frame - simply put on glue. Before this, it is important to treat the surfaces with a deep penetration primer.

Instructions for plasterboard sheathing

If, after the installation of the doors, the partition made of reinforced concrete or brick has undergone destruction and needs to be leveled with a plasterboard system, then the technology of facing the opening is similar to the installation of plastic panels. A frame made of wood or galvanized profiles is mounted on the base, and GKL sheets are screwed to it with self-tapping screws. Next is the finishing - puttying and cleaning the seams with further painting.

Special attention deserves the fastening of gypsum boards without crates. The method allows leveling the curvature of the walls due to a thick layer of adhesive construction mixture. The cladding technology is as follows:

Cut out the cladding elements from the gypsum board according to the lateral dimensions of the opening and prepare the walls - clean from the old coating and prime.
Prepare the adhesive and dot it on the top drywall part, as shown in the photo.
Attach the element to the wall and press it by substituting a wooden support with a horizontal bar. Be sure to check the position of the sheet by level and wait until the glue hardens.
After the adhesive has hardened, remove the stand and additionally fix the sheet with dowels, drilling it in 3-4 places.
Repeat the operation on the side slopes of the front door.

Advice. To make the ceiling element stick to the wall faster, apply a thin layer of mounting foam along the edge before installation.

The subtleties of the process of finishing with drywall will tell you the master in the video:

Conclusion

If you have read our material and watched the training videos, you will surely be able to choose the right option for finishing the door slopes. The proposed methods are quite simple, and therefore available to every skilled homeowner. If you wish, you can also perform plastering, but in this case, the lining is complicated by wet processes, which cause a lot of inconvenience. The correct application of the plaster mixture is shown in the last video:

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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