What do you need to tile the floor. Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands: detailed instructions, tips on choosing materials, photos and videos. Base at an angle

Ceramic tiles on the floor in the hallway, in the bathroom or in the kitchen are placed quite often. If you have purchased the material, then the logical question arises of how to properly mount it. At first glance, this task is quite difficult. Let's see if that's the case.

General information

The question of how to lay tiles on the floor correctly and without difficulties will not arise from a professional builder. Also, it will not appear if there are friends or acquaintances who are good at doing this. However, in most cases, beginners will have to deal with tiling for the first time, and there will be no one around to help. In this case, do not give up, it is better to learn more about it and do everything yourself.

Base leveling features

Calculation of ingredients for a mixture

The floor should dry for about an hour. After that, you can start filling it. The mixture must be prepared in accordance with the volume of the available container. An example is a bucket with a capacity of 30 liters. To prepare a solution in such a container, one bag of the Osnovit T-45 mixture and approximately 8 liters of water will be required. In this case, proportions are very important. Do not add less than 8 liters of water per bag.

Features of the preparation of the mixture

A large bucket should contain 8 liters of water. There you need to pour two-thirds of the bag of the mixture. Then everything is mixed with a perforator with a special nozzle. The result should be a homogeneous solution. If you drive the perforator in a circle while stirring, it will be much faster. After that, the powder remaining in the bag is poured into the solution. Then everything is mixed again. Then the solution is poured into the lowest place. This must be done very smoothly. The puddle should be slightly rolled out with a special spiked roller. The floor should dry in about an hour. After that, you can step on it, but only very carefully. Next, the slope of the floor must be checked with a level. Then the filling procedure is repeated. The lowest place is determined anew. A small kitchen will need about 6 bags of mix. In this case, the area and curvature of the floor play an important role. After the alignment is completed, you must wait a few days. Do not immediately start laying tiles.

Important Points

The floor must be level. Otherwise, the tiles on it will look ugly. In addition, the installation process will be much more complicated. The fact is that the tile will have to be leveled by adjusting the amount of glue under it.

Mounting Features

In fact, laying tiles on the floor is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Of course, for fast and high-quality tile laying, special tools will be required.

Plastic crosses.
Sponge.
Roulette.
Pencil.
Ruler.
Bulgarian.
Tile cutter.
Notched trowel.
Bucket for glue.
Rubber spatula.
Glue for tiles.

Technology Choice

Want to learn how to lay tiles on the floor? First you need to decide on the installation option. For example, diagonally, with or without a border, and so on. After that, it is required to determine the main guidelines for the location of the first tile and subsequent rows. This stage should be given special attention. It is required to have a clear idea of how the future floor will look like. Otherwise, all the work will be in vain. It is worth noting that the cropped elements do not look very aesthetically pleasing. For this reason, laying tiles on the floor begins along the wall that will be in full view. If the elements are placed diagonally, then there is no escape from the cut pieces. When mounting the tiles on the floor with your own hands, you need to ensure that the line of rows is parallel to the window. Most of all, at the entrance to the premises, non-compliance with this particular criterion is noticeable. For safety net, you can lay out several rows of tiles along the wall. It is necessary that they do not go to the side. But the wall can also be curved. Focusing on it, you can incorrectly lay the tile. Consider all points.

Preparation of the adhesive solution

To do this, water and a dry mixture are combined (2.5 kg is needed per 10 liters). It is best to make small portions of glue, as it hardens quite quickly. To prepare the solution, you need a small bucket. Tile adhesive is kneaded with a perforator with a special nozzle. You can use the simple drilling mode. It is necessary to check the instructions, which are usually found on the bag. The consistency of the finished glue is similar to thick sour cream. It should be smeared on the floor in the place where four tiles will be placed. This is done with a notched trowel. The solution is taken from the bucket with a narrow spatula or scoop. Glue is laid out in the middle of the outlined square. It is not necessary to reach the limits of the next square. The recommended adhesive application area is at least 70% of the tile surface. The solution should not be saved. Its layer should be at least 5 mm.

Installation nuances

Before laying the tiles on the floor, you should determine the starting point. As a rule, it is one of the corners of the room. The solution is applied to the tile with a notched trowel. You need to press it to the floor with your hands. Then the second tile is taken and the operation is repeated. It is necessary to press it against the one that is already glued to the base. Extruded adhesive should be wiped off. With the help of plastic crosses, an equal distance between the elements is formed. The first row is carefully laid, and then the subsequent ones. It is recommended to check the evenness of the masonry with a level. At the gaps, the tile should not "walk".

Sometimes, during the laying of tiles, the passage to the room, which will need to be entered, may be blocked. For example, in the corridor. In this case, it is better to leave a small passage. The glue will dry the next day, and it will be possible to report the remaining elements. When laying a warm floor, it is necessary to use a special solution, for example "Lux". Tiles on a wooden floor are laid according to the above technology. However, there are some peculiarities here. In order to lay tiles on a wooden floor, the adhesive must be mixed with PVA. In this case, you can do without water. For this technology, one glue is not enough. First, the solution is placed on the tile, then directly on the floor. In this case, the spatula must be held at a different angle. Thus, the maximum possible adhesion to the floor will be ensured, and the tile will last in its place for a very long time.

additional information

During work, you need to use a tile cutter. In case of its absence, you can take a glass cutter. However, if the ceramic tiles on the floor are laid not thin, but thick, then it will be difficult to use them. In order to cut off a thin or small piece, nippers or pliers are enough. In some cases, a grinder may be required.

Grouting

It should be started after the solution has dried. This happens in about a day. This process requires special care. The overall appearance of the tile depends on the application of the grout. It can be purchased at most hardware stores. Sold as a dry mix, and ready-to-use grout. It must be diluted to a homogeneous mass. The grout should be applied with a rubber spatula. Rub it into the seams should be evenly. After the grout dries, the tile is wiped with a damp sponge. Next, you need a piece of plastic cable. They need to go over the seams and press the grout evenly. The floor is then washed with a damp cloth. Here's how to lay tiles on the floor. Following the recommendations, you can quickly carry out installation.

Tiles on the floor in the bathroom

In this case, the level of the base must be ideal. Before laying tiles on the floor, it is necessary to cover the surface with waterproofing. It should be noted that there is no plinth in the described room. Accordingly, the gap between the elements of the coating and the walls should not exceed 1 cm. In the process of work, there is a high probability of chipping the tile. In order to avoid this, it is necessary to cover the floor with something. For example, hardboard or cardboard. In extreme cases, you can use an old carpet that is no longer needed.

Material calculation

Many begin to wonder how many tiles will be needed. It is necessary to measure outlets, ledges and the entire room.

You will need some tools to get the job done.

Cardboard template.
Rubber (wooden) mallet.
Pencil.
Wooden bars.
Hacksaw.
Notched spatulas.
Rubber roller.
Roulette.

Before laying tiles on the floor, you should decide on the adhesive composition. The installation option for small areas depends on it. Tiles on the floor in the bathroom on solutions of synthetic or rubber resins are mounted from the door. When using dispersion adhesive, which is based on bituminous mastic, you should start working from the wall opposite the entrance. It should be noted that in the first case it is possible to step on the glued elements, but not in the second case. It is allowed to walk on the "black floor", while laying is carried out on oneself. Before laying tiles on the floor, experts recommend heating it to 40 degrees. It will become softer and begin to interact better with the base.

Technology

For example, coumarone-sodium mastics are used. Before laying the tiles on the floor, the base is smeared with a plastic or rubber spatula. Dry should be "until tacky". This means that the finger should stick to the mastic a little. Wait 15 minutes at room temperature. During this time, the adhesive must be applied to the back of the tile. Elements should be taken by the edges. The tile is lowered into place and pressed by hand. Then you need to smooth it out. This can be done with a rubber roller or by hand. To deposit a tile, you need to lightly hit it with a mallet. Rolling with a rubber roller is carried out along the entire laid row. Thus, air is forced out of it. Mastic may be squeezed out of the seams. It is removed with a rag, which is pre-soaked in a solvent. They can serve as gasoline or turpentine. The solvent should not get into the seam, it is recommended to follow this. If this happens, then the strength of the adhesive will decrease.

Mounting errors

Cracking and sticking of tiles are disadvantages that are inherent in the flooring. There can be many reasons for this. For example, a thin layer of glue or improper preparation of the base. The tile will need to be removed in both cases. In addition, you need to remove the old adhesive layer, and then apply a new one. Cracks can form due to too hot tiles and large temperature differences.

There is no need to turn to the services of expensive masters for laying tiles. With the right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Given the average cost of laying tiles, the savings can be substantial. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules if it is planned to lay tiles with your own hands, in order for the result to be the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

surface preparation (screed formation, wall plastering);
marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
laying the first row or several multidirectional rows according to the markup;
filling the entire area with solid tiles;
cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
grouting (jointing).

Tiling tools

The tool required for surface preparation is selected depending on the required operations and work execution technologies. Directly for installation you will need the following:

trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber mallet, mortar container. In places where the whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or wire cutters, a large needle file or sandpaper, a grinder.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to correctly estimate the required number of tiles, one should not only measure the square of the surface for facing, but also estimate the number of tiles to be cut into pieces. It all depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of all kinds of obstacles in the form of pipes, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately, on top of the calculated number of square meters, take more tiles sufficient for laying two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for bathroom and kitchen cladding, where moisture-resistant compounds are required. Moreover, with proper surface preparation, the consumption of mortar is minimal, and the cost of laying is significantly reduced.

Read more about the calculation of materials for tile work.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly flat and durable, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. Under no circumstances should you rely on the fact that small unevenness in the floor or wall can be closed by using more mortar under the tile. A high-quality result can only be achieved when the entire material is laid on a uniformly small layer of adhesive.

Before laying tiles on the floor, a screed must be formed. In the bathroom and toilet, a waterproofing layer is necessarily formed. The screed can be produced by the wet method, adhering to the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay tiles on a concrete base, that is, on a wet screed. If the old coating is being replaced, then it is, and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.

In order to tile the walls with tiles, it is necessary to get rid of all the old coating and plaster the walls with the obligatory reinforcement with construction mesh. It's best to do this. It is not worth using putty, as well as achieving a perfectly smooth surface, this can impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All skirting boards, trims on the doorway and sills are dismantled. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

In case you are confident in the reliability of the old tile layer or just want to save time, check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Layout and installation of supports

options for non-standard laying of floor coverings

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the markings and stops for the first row, along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

At the very bottom, a plastic corner or a wooden rail is fixed, on which the first row will rest. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the installation. In the case of using multi-colored tiles or different types of mosaic laying, it is best to mark with marks the places of laying other than the mass of tiles.

Floor

The line of the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row is drawn. The locations of the tiles are marked, which will differ from the main mass when the pattern is formed. Laying floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, shift the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account the size of not only the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling schemes

Having prepared the markup and landmarks, you can start laying. To do this, the tile adhesive solution is applied to the wall with a notched trowel as thick as the depth of the teeth. The tile leans first on the support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully place the tile with your own hands on the mortar. It is not necessary to press it. Slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements achieves maximum adhesion of the product with the mortar.

Remember that it will be problematic to remove the tile from the surface after laying it on the mortar, so you should immediately place it as correctly as possible. You can only slightly move it to the sides. Check the correctness of the installation using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile somewhat, a rubber mallet is used. Crosses are located in the corners to maintain gaps. After that, you can proceed to further installation.

It is impossible to press the tile strongly so that the solution protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tile and give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When the hand is already full, you can apply the mortar, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after the distribution of the solution, the tile is installed in its place and sits on the solution with small circular movements. After that, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, using the level, the entire stacked row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the filling of the first row, it is best to wait until the glue under it seizes normally. After that, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break in work, then all the mortar that is not under the tile, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done, and it dries up, then before continuing the work, the frozen solution will have to be chipped off, which will affect the strength of the connection of the already laid tiles. Also, all excess mortar is removed in places that are left for laying cut tiles.

Step 4. Filling in the Remaining Areas

Having laid out the entire space where solid tiles are used, you can start cutting the missing pieces and installing them. you can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter, in extreme cases, a grinder is also suitable. The latter option will have a lot of dust, so pruning is best done outdoors. The marking of the tiles is made taking into account the gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter-nippers or an electric machine with a diamond wheel is used. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grout (jointing)

After fully laying the tiles on the wall or floor, you should wait for the adhesive solution to dry. After that, all the crosses between the tiles are removed, and the seams are jointed. To do this, you can use cement-based grout, silicone or epoxy. It is first of all necessary to select a suitable grout according to the color design of the selected coating itself. In terms of characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cementitious grout is distributed dry and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grouts are sold ready-to-use in sealed packages.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After that, if silicone or epoxy grout is used, the edges of the tile are additionally glued with masking tape. If this is not done, then the dried mixture will be difficult to clean off the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, a small amount of grout is applied over the seam and pressed inward. Putting a rubber spatula across the seam, and swiping it with pressure, the excess is removed. In this case, the seam deepens a little and is compared.

Masking tape and grout residues should be removed after it has completely dried. Having cleaned and washed the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered completed.

Note: ceramic tiles are laid in a similar way. Differences partly relate only to the nuances in the ways of cutting tiles.

A bit about cutting tiles

Virtually no tiling job is complete without the need for trimming. This can be done in a variety of ways: from a glass cutter to modern machines with a diamond cutting wheel. If a mechanical hand tool is used, then the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. After that, demolition is performed. Floor tiles are more massive and cannot be cut beautifully with a glass cutter. For all types of tile cutters, the cutting wheel has a significantly larger diameter of 1.6 cm to form a deeper cut.

For example, consider the option of cutting using a mechanical machine tile cutter:

Such a tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with limiters, on which the markings of the ruler are applied. This facilitates the process of cutting a whole row of tiles of the same size. We adjust the limiters to the required distance so that the intended cut line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
In the upper part of the tool, a carriage runs along two guides, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, in which the petals are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We take the carriage to the edge farthest from us. A wheel is attached to the edge of the tile and with pressure is drawn along its surface along the cut line.
After that, the emphasis on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and the tile is made with light pressure.

The difficult moment is not a straight cut and not diagonally, but figured cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for the output of wires, bypassing sockets or the exit of water pipes. In this case, a cutout shape is outlined on the glazed side, and the line is carefully drawn with a cutting wheel of a manual tile cutter. After that, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile in pieces until only the part that is necessary in shape remains. The resulting edge will turn out to be quite uneven; a file or sandpaper is used to solve this problem.

When using an electric machine, the entire part that should be removed on the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bit off, the edge is also compared with a file.

It is good if a tile fits along the length of the row without the need for trimming the extreme one. If this is not the case, then the laying row should be shifted so that the last tile is intact. If at the same time the remaining gap requires a fragment of 1-2 cm, the row is still shifted in order to put wider pieces along the two edges. This will eliminate the need for time-consuming cutting of narrow strips of tile.
The same applies to marking the position of rows in height, especially when laying is not done under the ceiling, but up to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first lower row is formed from pieces, and the upper one from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
Laying tiles in the corridor is best, starting from filling the space along long walls, leaving a gap of one tile in the middle or from one of the edges. At the same time, it is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to go astray and not to make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
If different laying options are used in the form of a figured construction or using tiles of different colors, the locations of the tiles that differ in shape, direction or design should be indicated in advance. It is often used to divide individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern using the distribution of joints. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of cut tiles to be filled last.
Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive used. Some options involve wetting the surface of the tile before installing it on a layer of adhesive applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

In any room, the floor is exposed to the greatest mechanical stress. Therefore, floor tiles must be durable, resistant to abrasion and chemicals, and also have high moisture resistance, because they are most often laid in rooms where wet cleaning is often carried out. In addition, floor tiles are also an important element of the interior. It should be in harmony with the decoration of the walls and ceiling, create a common background with them. That is why designers develop different types of tiled flooring. What to focus on when choosing a tile for the floor and how to lay it correctly with your own hands - you will learn about this by reading this article.

We choose a tile for the floor in accordance with the operating conditions and personal preferences in color, shape, texture

When choosing a tile for the floor, it is necessary to take into account the load to which it will be subjected, the type of room (an object with high traffic or a dwelling). In accordance with this criterion, floor tiles are available for low, medium and high load levels. The low-load tile is designed for places where people mostly walk barefoot or in soft slippers. The medium load tile can withstand normal shoes. Tiles for a high level of load are laid in places with a large crowd of people.

In this case, we are interested in laying tiles on the floor of a residential building. Suitable , hallway, kitchen, toilet. If the tiled floor is not planned to be covered with carpets, then you should not choose tiles with a glazed surface, since it is easy to slip on such a floor covering. In this case, it is better that the tile is embossed - this increases the coefficient of friction. Tiles for the kitchen on the floor - on the contrary, should not be embossed, as it will be difficult to clean. For the kitchen floor, it is better to choose glazed tiles with a matte finish (may have a laser pattern to prevent slipping).

Having chosen a tile that meets these requirements, you can proceed to the choice of size, shape and color. Here you can dream up plenty, not forgetting to take into account the interior of the apartment and how the selected floor tiles will look in it. For example, a glossy glazed tile expands a visually cramped space, while a dark matte one will make a large room more sophisticated.

It is important to know! When choosing a tile, you should buy it all at once, in one series, as well as with a mandatory stock (approximately 10% of the calculated amount).

Do-it-yourself tiling is a responsible and lengthy process. Here are its main steps:

preparation of the floor surface;
floor marking according to the chosen laying scheme;
direct laying of tiles;
cutting tiles to the desired size and configuration;
grouting.

Floor surface preparation

From what will be the surface of the coating on which the tile is laid, its further performance will ultimately depend. For this, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

Choosing a layout scheme and marking the floor according to it

With the help of tiles you can decorate the house, create an unforgettable interior in the room. How to lay tiles - in a linear or checkerboard pattern, create drawings and patterns or collect mosaics - is up to the owner.

Tiling schemes can be as follows

It is only important that the tile is started from the most visible places, because at the end of the installation it may be necessary to cut the tile to add the rest of the place in pieces.

There are three main options for laying out floor tiles:

"Seam to seam" - rows of tiles are laid in parallel. Most suitable for large tiles.
Laying "diagonally" - is made at an angle of 45 ° to the lines of the walls. Allows you to hide small irregularities in the walls with the help of cut tiles laid along the edges.
Laying "in a run" is made according to the brickwork method from rectangular floor tiles. In this case, the first tile is laid not in the corner, but in the center of the room.

Each of these styling methods is good in its own way, the main thing is that the chosen option is in harmony with the design of the room.

We make the markup according to the selected scheme (in our example, the scheme is simple - “seam to seam”). To do this, from the wall located at the entrance, we measure a distance equal to the width of the tile, adding 4-5 mm to the gap, which will be closed later with a plinth (this space can then be used for laying a television or telephone cable). We stretch the paint cord along the marks and beat off the line.

Marking the floor surface for laying tiles

The procedure for laying floor tiles

To resolve the issue of how to properly lay tiles in order to get a beautiful and high-quality floor covering, you just need to strictly follow the laying technology.

In order to know how to stick tiles in the same direction, a corrugated arrow is applied on its back. When laying, we cover the arrow with glue and we can get confused, so we make additional marks on the ends of the tiles with a pencil.

We make marks on the ends of the tiles in order to know the direction of its laying

For styling we need:

rubber mallet;
tile adhesive;
notched trowel for floor tiles (with 12 mm square teeth);
small level (45-50 cm);
rule 1.5-2.0 m long;
plastic crosses (3mm) and wedges for seams (4-5 mm);
grinder with a diamond disc;
drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer.

An important point when laying tiles is compliance with the temperature regime - within 20 ° C.

Find the center of the doorway and mark it.
Marking the center of the doorway

We put one tile for reference - as it will lie.

Laying tiles for reference
We knead the tile adhesive using a drill with a special nozzle or a construction electric mixer. Pour the dry mixture into water (water consumption - strictly according to the instructions on the package, otherwise the glue may turn out to be liquid). It is not necessary to prepare a lot of glue at once so that it does not have time to dry before we use it. The adhesive solution should be left for 15 minutes to infuse, then mix well one more time.
Apply the glue in an even layer on the tile with a spatula. We carry out a notched comb, holding it at a right angle and pressing it firmly against the surface of the tile so that the adhesive strips are the same.
Apply glue to the tile and draw with a toothed comb

The larger the size of the tile, the deeper and wider the grooves on the adhesive should be, and, accordingly, the size of the teeth of the spatula. Shake off excess glue so that it does not stick to the comb. We apply the first tile to the floor to the right of the one that was placed for reference. We press and gently tap it with a rubber mallet for a tighter fit.

For a tighter fit to the surface, tap the tile with a hammer

If any tile becomes hard to level with the rest, in this case it is recommended to remove a little glue from under it or add (if it fails). We check with a level how the tile lies.
We continue to lay the floor tiles in a row to the right. We do it in this way: before pressing the next tile to the floor, we put the level on it so that part of it hangs over the previous tile.
Laying tiles on the floor with a level

We press the tile a little with our hands, making small circular movements until the edge of the level touches the surface.
Align along the line, insert crosses between the tiles so that the seams are the same. And so that the tile does not accidentally move, we fix it with wedges from the side of the wall.
To prevent the tile from moving, we fix it with wedges from the side of the wall

We lay out the entire row to the side wall on the right, checking the evenness of the plane of the laid tiles using the rule. If it is necessary to correct the position of any tiles, this must be done within 15 minutes after laying. Later, for this, the tile will need to be removed and re-laid, having previously cleaned it of hardened glue.
A piece of trimmed tile must be placed against the wall. Since floor tiles are much stronger than wall tiles, a tile cutter cannot cut it evenly: it splits arbitrarily, and not along a notch. Therefore, you have to cut it with a grinder with a diamond disc.
Trimming tiles with a grinder with a diamond blade

Having laid the trim against the wall on the right, we continue to lay the row to the left of the doorway until the first row is completed.

First row of tiles laid

We begin to lay out the second row from the tile in the center of the door, and go first to the right and then to the left of it. Between the rows we also insert plastic spacer crosses. We check each by level, making sure that the corners of the next tile do not protrude above the surface of the one already laid. The second row is also completed.
In places where pipes exit, we make figured cutouts with the help of a grinder.
In places where pipes exit, we make curly cutouts

If it is necessary to make round holes, then we use nozzles for a tungsten soldered drill. Upon completion of laying, we check with the help of the rule the plane in several places (in different directions).

Checking the laying plane using the rule

After making sure that everything is in order, we wait for the glue to dry in order to grout the seams.

Grouting joints between tiles

We figured out how to glue tiles, but no less important technological operation is grouting tiles. This is the final stage of installation. Probably, rarely anyone likes to rub the seams - this is a monotonous, boring job, but you can’t do without it. Qualitatively worn seams will give a finished look to the overall picture, and the tile will look even more beautiful. A failed grout, on the contrary, can ruin all the work.

When buying grout, it should be borne in mind that for many of them the color of the powder in the package differs from the color of the finished and then dried mixture. Therefore, you should not be surprised if, upon opening the package, you find a completely different color than the one that was shown to you in the store. The solution will acquire the desired color when mixed with water.

Often the color of the dry powder is different from the color of the finished grout.

When mixed with water, the grout acquires the desired color

We add water to the dry grout mixture and knead with a regular spatula a small amount of grout of the consistency of thick sour cream. We wait 5 minutes for the solution to infuse, then mix it thoroughly again.

Important! Grouting works are carried out on clean tiles. If the tile is laid neatly, the seams will be clean; if not, they need to be cleaned, removing excess tile adhesive. It would be useful to moisten dry seams with water with a narrow brush or sponge.

Using a rubber spatula, we fill the tile joints. We collect the excess mixture with a spatula and apply it again perpendicular to the seam. We draw thin lines with the corner of the spatula moistened with water.

Filling tile joints with grout

After filling the last seam, we wait about 30 minutes until the grout begins to polymerize. By this time, the grout composition is already holding quite firmly in the seams, but it is easily removed from the surface of the tile. We carry out the first wash, using a large-pore sponge for this. We carry out a final re-wash 1 hour after grouting. Then wipe the floor dry with a flannel cloth.

Attention! Laying floor tiles must be carried out strictly following the recommendations of the manufacturers of all materials used (tile, adhesive mixture, grout).

In the early days, the seams must be moistened with a wet sponge to give strength to the grout. And after 1-1.5 weeks, the floor can be operated (if the tile laying technology has been observed). We glue skirting boards and enjoy the result of labor.

We hope that this article has helped you learn all the nuances of laying tiles on the floor, and you will be able to do this work with your own hands without resorting to the services of professionals who cost almost as much as the tile itself.

Ceramic tile flooring is quite popular. Such material is often used to decorate floors in a bathroom, toilet or other utility rooms (for example, a boiler room). Laying floor tiles with your own hands is a rather time-consuming process. It requires care and precision. And how this is done, we will tell in this article.

Preparatory work

Work on laying ceramic tiles requires preparation. The first step is to stock up on the necessary tools. You will need:

trowel, notched and wide spatula;
building level and ruler;
marker or pencil;
tile cutter;
hammer (simple and rubber), pliers, drill or puncher;
plastic crosses for leveling seams;
primer, grout, adhesive mass;
ceramic tile.

To calculate the required number of tiles, it is worth resorting to simple mathematics. Knowing the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, divide it by the area of one tile. In this case, it is worth considering the width of the seams, 2–5 mm. As a result, you will receive the required amount of material. Add 10–15% to this value. This margin is necessary, the tile may crack during operation, or you will cut off any piece incorrectly.

It is imperative to stock up. The fact is that the shades of the tile can vary even in one batch. Therefore, if only one square is not enough for you, it will be very difficult to find the right color.

Now you need to prepare the surface. Remove all items from the room (furniture, plumbing, etc.). If there was old tiles on the floor, you need to get rid of it. You also need to do with the old adhesive mass. A puncher with a special nozzle in the form of a spatula or a chisel with a hammer will help you with this.

When performing dismantling work, do not forget about your own safety. Put on goggles, a mask, and put gloves on your hands.

The next step is to clean the entire surface. Remove large and small debris, sweep away dust and sand (or vacuum). Then proceed to level the base. If, as a result of dismantling, large depressions or bulges are obtained, then alignment should begin with them. The bulges are knocked down with a chisel, and the cavities are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. Then a sand-cement screed is laid on the concrete floor and it is leveled. At each stage, check the evenness with a level. The presence of irregularities in the range from 0.5 to 1 cm is allowed.

If the room has wooden floors, then the leveling technology is different. First of all, the boards must be impregnated with a special oil-based paint. When the surface is dry, a layer of waterproofing is laid. Then, a reinforcing mesh is mounted to a height of 4–5 cm (for this you can use nails that are not completely driven into the floors). And only after that the entire area is filled with a leveling mixture (sand-cement mortar).

In rooms with wooden floors, it is allowed to use thick plywood as a substrate (thickness not less than 12 mm). But the sheets must be laid on the surface without significant irregularities. Otherwise, under the weight of the tiles and the adhesive mass, the plywood may bend and break.

We markup

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with markings. First of all (especially if you are installing for the first time) you need to do a dry layout. The tile is put into place without adhesive mass. This way you can calculate everything (where you need to cut, where difficult corners are formed, etc.). When laying out, do not forget about future seams between the tiles.

There are two main ways to lay out tiles.

The easiest is to start from one far corner of the room. This method is considered the fastest. This is how all novice tilers lay, or if you have to work in small narrow rooms, or rooms with complex geometry.

The second method is more complex - laying from the middle of the room to the sides. So the tiles are laid in large and free rooms. In this case, the room is divided into four equal parts. The first line is drawn from the middle of one wall to the opposite, the second is also in the middle, perpendicular to the first. Laying starts from any corner formed in the center of the room. In this case, you will have to cut the tiles around the perimeter of the room. When using this method of laying, a more attractive pattern is formed.

You can also choose the direction of laying tiles. Can be laid diagonally or in the usual straight way. The first one looks much more beautiful, but to create it you need to have experience in such works. That is why the second method of laying is much more common.

Whichever method you use, you still have to cut the tiles. Here it is important to remember one recommendation. Try not to cut too narrow strips, they will look bad. From a full tile, at least 20 percent of the area should remain. Also make sure that the most visible area is laid out from whole tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles

Now let's take a closer look at how to lay floor tiles. First of all, we prepare the glue. If you purchased a ready-made mass, then carefully read the instructions. If you like dry glue, then it must be diluted with water (also according to the recommendations from the manufacturer).

Since the process of laying tiles is quite long, it is necessary to dilute the adhesive mass in small portions. Otherwise, it will simply dry out and increase your financial costs.

The work is done square. That is, areas of a square meter are marked out and an adhesive mass is prepared for this area. After finishing one section, move on to the next.

First you need to cover the entire area with a primer. This will prevent mold from forming and make the surface more suitable for good bonding. Depending on the level of humidity in the room, one to three passes are made with a primer. Only after it has completely dried can you start laying floor tiles.

The surface is slightly moistened, and a layer of adhesive mass is applied to it. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is leveled. In this case, care must be taken not to form voids and air sacs.

A layer of glue is also applied to the back of the tile. This is done using the same notched trowel. A thin layer should cover the entire surface. Then the tile is turned over and neatly laid in its place. In this case, you need to evenly press on the entire surface.

The tile is leveled by gently moving from side to side. Horizontal evenness is checked using a building level or using a simple stretched thread. If the tile is below the desired level, then a little glue mass is added, if it is higher, the excess glue is removed.

A rubber mallet is used to level the tile along the plane. It delivers accurate strikes. So you can move the tile to the right place.

Leave an even gap between tiles. Its accuracy is achieved by using special plastic crosses. They fit into the resulting seam. If the tile is aligned with the crosses, then the gap is even and neat. Such a seam (2–5 mm wide) is needed so that the coating does not swell.

Near the walls you will have to cut the tiles. This is done with a tile cutter. A line is carefully drawn along the ruler, and then the tile is simply broken. But this must be done carefully.

Final stage

During work, it is necessary to periodically wipe the already made masonry section with a rag. This is necessary to wipe off the remnants of the adhesive mass before it hardens. And after laying the entire flooring, you can’t walk on it for at least two days.

After the glue has hardened, you can start grouting the seams. For this, a special moisture-resistant putty is used. This work can be done with a rubber spatula. But first you need to clean the seams from construction debris and dust.

After all the seams are worn, you need to clean the entire floor from debris with a rag. Then the grout is given a day to dry and you can start wet cleaning.

This completes the tiling work. Some tricks and styling techniques can be found by watching the video and photos.

Video

Video about the features of laying tiles on the floor:

A photo

Tile on the floor of the kitchen, bathroom, hallway or utility room is the perfect flooring option from all points of view. The coating easily creates the desired effect in the design, the main thing is to choose the right colors and texture. It does not require effort when cleaning, it is easy to clean, it is cleaned of dirt, it has a neat appearance. Properly selected floor ceramic tiles are not afraid of high humidity, temperature, are durable, and do not wear off like paint.

Disadvantages - a cold floor, painstaking laying work and increased hardness, due to which broken dishes that fall on such a floor are sure to break. However, these shortcomings are not significant. The tiled floor can be insulated, the kitchen can be equipped in such a convenient way that the risk of dropping the dishes is minimal, and anyone can master the correct installation technology with the proper desire and diligence.

When choosing a tile for the floor, you should consider a few points.

When choosing a tile, do not be lazy to attach two or three tiles to each other to make sure that there are no gaps between them and that they fit snugly together.
Floor tiles must not slip. You can check for slip by moistening the front side with water. The surface must be rough, with corundum coating or ribbed. Slippery tiles are not suitable for flooring and are suitable for walls.
You should buy material with a margin, during installation you can split it, damage it. To do this, the area to be covered must be measured and then compared with the size of the sample and correctly determined the required amount. The remaining part of the coating after the repair can be stored in the house in case of damage during operation, for replacement.
Calculate the required amount as follows: divide the floor area by the area of the tile sample to find out the required amount. You need to add another 10-15 percent for marriage and stock.
Pay attention to moisture resistance. Look at the specifications, moisten. The reverse side should not absorb moisture.
When choosing, preference should be given to heavier, thicker tiles (from 8 to 13 cm). It must be resistant to impact and withstand solid physical exertion.
By hardness, the tile is divided into 5 levels. Flooring corresponds to levels from 3 to 5.
Pay attention to how the tile is washed, reacts to washing abrasive substances. When choosing, designers are advised to choose floor tiles that contrast with the walls in color.
The most reliable material for tiling is porcelain stoneware. It costs more, but does not create problems during installation and operation.
If the kitchen is small, it is better to choose smaller tiles (10 by 10). Large tiles visually reduce the room. The easiest way to lay square classic tiles. If you choose curly, do not forget about skirting boards, borders, corners. For such places there are special forms of tiles.

Tools and materials needed during the laying process

To lay the tiles yourself, you need to stock up on tools and materials.

Adhesive mixtures

A ready-made adhesive solution in voluminous plastic buckets or bags is expensive, but in practice it is not very convenient to use it. It is better to buy a special dry mortar, which is easy to turn into building glue at home. In addition, the dry mix can be prepared in parts, choosing a convenient schedule and pace of facing work.

Ready-made glue or dry adhesive mixture can be replaced with a cement-sand mortar. Working with a cement mixture is tricky, but it will be cheap, it will help smooth out errors in the curvature of the floor, and in terms of the quality of installation, if everything is done carefully, a cement mortar prepared with one's own hand will not yield to glue.

A good composition for a building adhesive mixture is a combination of sand, ordinary quality cement and a dry adhesive mortar. It is both reliable and economical.

Fugue (grout for tile joints at the junction of tiles)

Fugue - grout for inter-tile joints at the junction of tiles. When choosing a fugue, you should pay attention to the fact that the contrasting grout makes the floor bright, emphasizing the shape of the tile, and the fugue matched to the color of the tile will give the effect of a uniform smooth coating. The width of the seam depends on the quality of the tile and ranges from 2 to 20 mm.

Before facing, it is necessary to prepare the floor for laying tiles. If the surface is not even, then the floor must be leveled, following the technologies adopted in construction work. Minor errors can be easily corrected with the help of cement mortar, as well as building aggregate from dry building mixtures.

Lay the tiles on a clean surface. Therefore, before work, the room must be completely freed from furniture and things, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, washed, cleaned of grease, dirt and dried. The room must be ventilated and closed for the duration of work and drying, eliminating drafts.

How to lay floor tiles in relation to walls

There are three main types of laying floor tiles.

"Seam to seam" is the easiest, most understandable and simplest way, when the tiles are laid sequentially, one after the other, in even straight rows, while the seams are the same, located one above the other evenly, the plates are parallel to the walls of the room.
"Diagonally" - the plates are not parallel to the walls, the corners of the tiles "look" at the walls. This is less economical, more troublesome, since many slabs have to be cut diagonally. But it is this method that can aesthetically make the room more attractive, visually more spacious, due to the diagonal lines on the floor.
"In a run" - the slabs are placed one above the other, but the seams do not match, the fragments of the coating are laid like bricks, the border between the overlying tiles is in the middle of the seam of the underlying tile.

Video - Laying tiles

Laying tiles

The first thing to do is determine the point from which laying will begin and where the first tile will be laid. Such a point can be located at the middle of the wall or in the middle of the room. This is necessary for symmetrical styling, as it is convenient.

Having prepared adhesive composition, apply it to the floor. For thicker tiles, we give a thicker adhesive layer. Level it, distribute it evenly with a notched trowel. We make sure that when leveling the grooves are the same in depth and height.

Experienced repairmen usually fill 1 square meter with glue or cement. meter. If there is no experience, it is better to reduce the area. You need to lay the tiles quickly, until the glue is weathered and begins to dry out.

If a cement mortar or a more reliable mixture of cement and glue is used instead of a special adhesive, the tile must be soaked in a basin of water, for tight "sticking" and adhesion (adhesion) with the prepared floor surface.

On the finished fragment of the floor with the adhesive applied, the tile must be applied and pressed with your hands, then carefully tap on each side with a rubber construction hammer so that the laid tile adheres evenly.

For this, the building level is used. If the edge of the tile is higher than it should be, lower it with pressure or tap with a hammer. If the tile "sags", it is better to add a small portion of the adhesive solution.

We insert plastic dividing crosses between the tiles. so that the seams between the fragments of the coating are the same. Crosses can be replaced with matches or narrow wooden wedges, pegs with a diameter of 2-8 mm.

Sometimes a tile does not fit at the end of a row, in which case a tile cutter will come to the rescue, and if it is not there, an ordinary "grinder". Can be used for cutting and glass cutter. This will require additional effort, but - no additional costs.

While working on laying tiles, it is necessary to keep a damp cloth nearby to immediately wipe off glue and cement stains until the composition thickens and dries.

After laying the tiles completely, you need to wait until the glue is completely dry. It is necessary to exclude the slightest drafts, close windows and doors tightly, make sure that there is no one in the room with freshly laid tiles, including animals and children. The glue will dry in a couple of days. After complete drying, you can begin to complete the work - grouting.

The seams between the tiles are rubbed with a special construction mixture. We take out all the plastic dividing crosses (or matches) from the gaps between the tiles, then apply the grout mixture to the seam with a small rubber spatula.

By the way, puffer can be made colored by adding dye to the finished mixture. The paint is selected individually in accordance with the aesthetic tasks that you set for yourself.

If the tiled floor is in a crowded room, liquid cement mortar can be used instead of a fugue, it is stronger, more resistant to physical aggression and does not wear off quickly.

After grouting, the tiled floor must dry out. Usually this takes a day. After that, you can wash the floor and breathe easy: the repair and construction part of the work associated with flooring is completed.

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