Effective interior soundproofing. Start of work

Most modern cars, and not only budget ones, do not have even the slightest sound insulation or vibration isolation of the ceiling. For some incomprehensible reason, automakers ignore this important and very useful procedure when assembling a car on an assembly line. Noise and vibration isolation absorb vibration and do not let extraneous noise coming from outside into the cabin. In addition, "Shumka" acts as a heater, not releasing heat and not allowing cold to pass into the interior of the car.

If you are not sure if you have noise or vibration isolation of the roof, and you do not want to remove the skin, you can find out with a few simple experiments:

In winter, when there is a lot of snow on the roof of the car, get in the car and warm it up. If the snow on the roof begins to melt - you have no "shumka" or it does not provide absolutely no effect.
In addition, the lack of vibration or noise insulation can be ascertained while driving. Without soundproofing, a rumble and rattle comes from the side of the roof.
During rain, in a car in which there is no vibration isolation and noise isolation, it is very difficult to hear the interlocutor or music playing softly.

Roof noise reduction- the simplest and most affordable procedure among all existing methods of noise reduction, and it is quite possible to perform it at home. It is desirable, of course, to do it in a complex (ceiling, floor, arches, engine compartment, doors, etc.), but if you decide to do only the ceiling, then this will be a very big plus.

Once I already talked about the complete one, then it was a VAZ 2114. This time we will perform only partial noise and vibration isolation, that is, only the ceiling on almost the same car -.

To work, you need to buy:

Three sheets of vibroplast 2 mm thick, good quality, I prefer Noico, but you can take something else that suits you better.
You will also need two large sheets of splenitis 4 mm thick. The number depends on how well you know how to handle this material, if you do everything correctly and do not "translate" anything, then one should be enough.

Soundproofing the ceiling of a VAZ 2115 car with your own hands - step by step instructions

1. First of all, it is necessary to provide access to the iron ceiling, for this we remove the ceiling lining, as well as all the decor: visors, handles and, of course, the ceiling.

2. Thoroughly degrease the entire ceiling with white spirit and proceed to pasting the ceiling with vibration isolation.

3. Three sheets are enough for the entire ceiling. It is desirable to have an assistant, because it is not very convenient to glue alone. The principle is simple, no more difficult than pasting a children's sticker, well, maybe a little more complicated.

4. Cut off a piece of the required size, remove the protective film and apply it to the ceiling of your car.

5. After that, we roll everything thoroughly with a roller so that it does not peel off later.

6. When you're done with the vibroplast, take a large piece of splenite and glue it over the vibroplast layer. One sheet was enough for the entire area of the ceiling of the car. After gluing, we roll everything again with a roller.

At the end, we collect everything and fix it in place ...

Well, basically everything. There seems to be nothing more to describe, the process is simple and does not require special instructions. The most important thing is not to confuse what to glue on. For everything about everything, I spent a little more than an hour of free time.

About results

What can be said here? Of course, everything is super, I can’t convey how it was and how it became in the photo, just take my word for it, it became really more comfortable, even when you are talking in the interior of your car - it feels like you are in someone else’s car. While driving, the noise became much less, I won’t say that it completely disappeared, but it became at least two, or maybe three times quieter. Rain is no longer a problem at all, even during a downpour in the car you can hear the whisper of the interlocutor or softly playing music. Thank you for your attention, I hope you are also satisfied with the result!?

For a modern car owner, the desire to eliminate extraneous sounds and completely enjoy the silence in the cabin, or the ability to listen to your favorite music hits without unnecessary creaking, rattling of the car, suggests the idea of \u200b\u200bsoundproofing. To get rid of the main sources of external noise, it is recommended to start soundproofing the car from the roof first.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline!

Soundproofing the roof of the VAZ 2110, 2112 will not be difficult for the owners if you follow the instructions clearly.

Stage 1. Remove the roof upholstery, after removing the handrails, ceiling lights, air temperature sensors.

It is advisable to remove the roof lining, based on the following recommendations:

- unscrew the self-tapping screw of the upper fastening of the rear rack lining;

- remove the butt rack pad without damaging the plastic holders;

- remove the plastic clips securing the upholstery with a screwdriver

- pull out three clips in the area of the rear roof reinforcement;

- Carefully peel back the trim from the roof panel;

- remove the upholstery through the rear doors or trunk;

Stage 2. Treat the surface of the roof ceiling with a degreasing agent such as white spirit.

Stage 3. Line the ceiling with a vibromaterial (Eco-4, 2mm Vizomat, BiMast, or STP), treating all flat surfaces between the stiffeners.

To avoid voids and air bubbles, heat the ceiling surface and the vibration isolation material with an industrial heat gun, and then apply the material using a special hard roller.

Stage 4. Glue the sound-absorbing material (SPLEN, Accent), the surface of which is covered with a special soundproof film

In order for the ceiling lining to lay flat, use 5 mm Bitoplast on the stiffeners, places under the handles, as well as lighting shades.

Stage 5. Use new clips when final fitting the upholstery, as old clips may not be reusable.

Soundproofing the roof of the VAZ 2010, 2011, 2012 does not present great difficulties, since the amount of work performed can be done without outside help. In addition to eliminating extraneous sounds, roof sound insulation has another advantage - excellent thermal insulation.

Do-it-yourself soundproofing and vibration isolation of the VAZ 2115 ceiling

Modern cars do not have even the simplest sound insulation and vibration isolation of the ceiling. However noise and vibration isolation not only eliminates vibration, but also acts as a heater.

If there is no initial data on the presence of such insulation, you can find out about this without removing the skin using the following experiments:

If it's winter outside, you need to start the car and warm it up. If the snow on the roof melts, either there is no sound insulation, or it is ineffective.
Without insulation, when moving from above, a hum is heard and a rattling is felt.
In the rain, very poor audibility inside the cabin.

Roof noise reduction easy to do on your own. It is recommended, of course, to do in a complex: ceiling, floor, arches, engine compartment, doors.

Earlier, we already talked about the sound insulation of a car on VAZ 2114 cars. This time we will talk about noise and vibration insulation of the ceiling on a VAZ 2115.

Need to purchase:

3 two-millimeter vibroplast sheets (as an option, Noico);
2 4mm splenite sheets. Perhaps one will be enough, but it depends on the skills you have.

Installation algorithm for soundproofing the ceiling of a VAZ 2115 car

Free access to the iron ceiling by removing the ceiling lining and all decorative elements (visors, handles, ceiling).
Degrease the ceiling with white spirit, paste over the ceiling with vibration-proof material.

Noise and vibration isolation of the ceiling VAZ 2115

3 sheets is enough for the entire ceiling. It's better to have an assistant nearby.

How to make soundproofing the ceiling VAZ 2115

Also check out

Cut off a piece of a small size, remove the protective film, stick to the ceiling.
Roll out everything with a roller.

How to make soundproofing the ceiling of the VAZ 2115 at home

After the gluing of the vibroplast is completed, you can start gluing the splenitis (glue it over the layer of the vibroplast). After gluing, roll out everything with a roller again.

Soundproofing the trunk of the VAZ 2112 is carried out in conjunction with the bottom

Taping a car with soundproofing is not so much an achievement of comfort as an urgent need. In all interiors of domestic cars, there is no sound insulation, and if there is in some places, it still lets in extraneous sounds. Therefore, you have to eliminate such a disadvantage with your own hands.

What is needed for

Noise isolation today is needed not only for lovers of good music:

Extraneous noise in the cabin interferes with normal conversation
In addition, the noise has an irritating effect on the driver, reduces his reaction and thus endangers his life.
Prolonged stay in the cabin with constant noise disrupts nervous activity, increases a person’s irritability, worsens sleep
Finally, loud noise constricts blood vessels in the body, which increases the workload on the heart, and can cause angina pectoris over time.
You can't buy health, so you need to take care of it right away
Soundproofing the VAZ 2112 itself will solve all problems
So that you do not have a strain with time and money, it is recommended to perform it in stages, starting with easy sections that do not require disassembly of the cabin

Starting with the hood

The hood cover and bulkhead of the engine compartment, the easiest areas to start from, at the same time and practice:

It reduces the level of noise from the engine to the cabin, plus it provides thermal insulation, which is necessary for the engine in winter.
To achieve a tangible effect, it must be carried out in conjunction with the processing of the motor shield
Competent sound insulation is carried out in three layers
The first layer is always placed a vibration damper, as the instruction says
The vibration damper must certainly have a foil layer to better reflect heat waves, because the temperature under the hood with the engine running reaches a fairly high level
You apply the material on flat surfaces between the stiffeners, as in the photo above
The second layer is made of foil heat-insulating material, for example, Splen
This second layer plays the role of thermal insulation and sound insulation, it covers the entire area, including stiffeners
The third layer is usually standard (factory, regular) sound insulation
We process the trunk lid in a similar way.

Let's move on to the engine block.

To produce high-quality sound insulation of the motor shield in the cabin, it is necessary to remove the dashboard:

Therefore, together with the hood, the outer side is processed, which does not require disassembly
All the same, two layers of the same materials, and in the same sequence
And the procedure in the salon is combined with
The first layer will also be vibration-proof material, Vibroplast or Bimast is ideal
On all side surfaces, as well as technological holes, a vibration damper should also be applied, only thinner
The second layer implies sizing with soundproofing material, here the entire surface is also covered with Accent (inside the Accent is more advantageous than Splen)
The thickness of the sound insulator is taken ten, and preferably fifteen centimeters
At the same time, experts recommend sealing the points of contact between the dashboard and the body of the panel with 10 mm bitoplast to reduce creaking, and in places where it does not enter, use a thinner anti-creak - madeleine
Install the factory soundproofing with the next layer, if it was
If the standard sound insulation is unsuitable for further use, you can purchase a new one.

We process the roof

Work on soundproofing the roof is the simplest and at the same time the least expensive:

Here it is enough to install only two layers
As always, the first layer is vibration isolation, you cover the entire flat surface of the roof with it.
Vizomat is recommended as a vibration isolating material, two millimeters thick
The second layer is a soundproofing layer from Accent
Bitoplast is superimposed on the ribs of cruelty, with a thickness of 5 millimeters or 10 millimeters, the entire flat surface is Accent, with a thickness of 10 millimeters In the space under the handles and shades, it is sealed with Bitoplast 4 millimeters

Soundproofing the bottom

When the VAZ 2112 is being soundproofed, you yourself will have to disassemble the interior, remove all rugs and chairs:

In addition, remove the standard Shumkov, if present
Only after complete disassembly of the cabin, the laying of vibration isolation begins with Vizomat, Vibroplast, or Bimast Bomb (the price of which you like more), process the entire flat surface of the tunnel, and the bottom
In the process of installing vibration-absorbing material, it is important to glue it tightly, roll it tightly to remove bubbles

A noise absorber Accent or Isoton is laid on top of it
The thickness for soundproofing material for the bottom needs at least 10 millimeters
A 10 mm layer of Bitoplast is recommended for soundproofing the tunnel.
An accent of 8 millimeters is used for processing the trunk - including the spare wheel well
Install the standard soundproofing with the third layer
Outside, the bottom is recommended to be treated with a “liquid” Shumka, it is also processed outside the wheel arches
It is easy to apply and comfortable in difficult areas, plus it is durable and protects against corrosion.
It is much lighter than sheet insulation, which is important
Applies faster with a sprayer

Shumka doors

First, the trim is removed from the doors (this operation is the same for all doors):

Then soundproofing materials are installed, first the surfaces are treated with a degreaser (alcohol or acetone)
The exception will be the lower part of the door, where an anti-corrosion coating is applied.
Noise isolation will also be made of several layers.

First layer

The vibration isolator is glued to the inner surface of the outer side (panel) of the car door:

For convenience, it is better to cut it into pieces in advance
The material is brought in through the technological holes in the inner lining, preheating it with a hair dryer for better fastening
Lay overlap
The more area you cover, the better.
And to eliminate air bubbles, roll the material with a hard roller or a screwdriver handle

Then, a soundproofing material is applied over the vibration isolation (better Accent), however, at the same time, it is desirable to cover the maximum area
Then all technological holes on the inside of the door are completely closed with vibration isolation (at least with foil).
Use Madeleine to "hide" the contact points (as well as the wires, the speaker mounting areas and the places where the trim is attached to the door)
Some motorists additionally install Bitoplast on the inside of the skin
After completion, the casing is mounted in the reverse order
We recommend that you do not use the car for about two days after this, you need to let the “Shumka” stick well

Process Improvement Tips:

All wires must be signed or marked during disassembly with a multi-colored tape or a marker
Self-tapping screws are also designated and decomposed in size and order of removal
When sticking materials, avoid gaps, it is much better to overlap
Do not use a household hair dryer to heat materials
Start laying the material with solid pieces, and then cut small ones as needed.
Heat the vibromaterials until their black surface becomes sticky
When processing the trunk, use thinner sheets
Leave holes for fasteners free
Remember to degrease all surfaces
Additionally, check out our video material

Quantity and types of materials

The components used in noise insulation differ in characteristics, methods of their fastening and price:

The assortment is wide today, both in Internet stores and in auto parts stores
Of these, Izoton and Accent are considered the most effective in terms of sound absorption.
Vibration absorption - Bimast and Vibroplast
Against the squeak - Bitoplast and Madeleine

Approximate quantity:

On the bottom - 13 sheets of vibration damper + 13 sheets of sound insulator, dimensions 0.5 * 0.75 meters
On the roof - 4 sheets of vibration + 4 sheets of sound insulation, dimensions 0.5 * 0.75 meters
VAZ 2112 trunk noise insulation - 10 sheets 0.3 m 2 - vibration + 0.8 m 2 sound insulation
On the door - 5 sheets of vibration isolation 0.5 * 0.75 meters + 0.8 m 2 soundproofing
Madeleine is applied in places, so 1 sheet is enough
Manufacturers, depending on the materials used, are recommended to treat surfaces as a percentage:
60% vibroplast and 40% bimast or vice versa
However, many owners apply 100% of the same material to all surfaces.

That's all, we wish you success.

Domestic cars do not differ in high-quality sound insulation. But extraneous sounds are annoying, the driver wants at least a little more comfort. Noise isolation VAZ-2110 is able to save the driver and passenger not only from extraneous noise and vibration, but also from heat leaks.

In winter, the car will be much warmer, the efficiency of the stove will increase significantly. The sound of the acoustic system is also significantly improved, the noise level from the engine compartment is reduced, the bottom of the car emits less vibrations, and the number of squeaks coming from the instrument panel is reduced.

Start of work

The first step is to choose the material with which the sound insulation of the VAZ-2110 will be carried out with your own hands. The cheapest material will be foam rubber impregnated with rubber-bitumen-based mastic. But it will be much easier to buy ready-made materials, since there are a great many of them on the market. You will need:

Vibroplast, which is a plastic material coated with foil. Capable of absorbing almost all metal vibration. It must be glued to all free metal surfaces. You can use analogues of this material.
Splenium can be used as a heat insulator. It is able not only to retain heat, but also to absorb excessive noise. Splenitis must be glued to the vibroplast. It is advisable to stick it on the entire surface.
Aluminum-based adhesive tape is necessary for gluing joints between materials.

Where to use materials

It should be borne in mind that do-it-yourself soundproofing of the VAZ-2110 is carried out in several zones. And each of them has its own material. Try to use all materials according to the following guidelines:

Vibroplast is required for gluing on the inner and outer surfaces of doors. It must also be applied as a first layer on the surface of the roof, tailgate and hood. It is used for gluing the dashboard, interior and trunk floor, engine compartment shield.
Sealant-based splenitis must be glued to the floor in the trunk and passenger compartment, as well as to the engine compartment shield.
Adhesive-based splen must be applied on the roof and inside the door.
Bitoplast must be applied on the inside of the instrument panel, as well as on the door trim.
The anti-creak tape must be cut into strips and glued on the dashboard, door trim, plastic elements in those places where friction may occur.
Aluminum tape is needed to fasten splenitis joints.

How much material is needed

To soundproof the VAZ-2110 cabin, trunk and hood, the following amount of materials will be required:

Vibroplast not less than 32 sheets.
Splenite 4mm thick based on glue, at least 7 sheets.
Splenite 4 mm with a sealant base of at least 11 sheets.
One roll of bioplastic.
One roll of anti-creak tape.
At least two rolls of aluminum tape.

The maximum amount of vibroplast required for high-quality insulation of a car can be 39 sheets. Splenia on glue and sealant - 14 and 8 sheets respectively. It is better to take with a margin so as not to interrupt the work.

Work Tools

Be sure to clean all surfaces to be treated, wash them thoroughly. The regular sound insulation of the VAZ-2110 must be removed from everywhere. You need to get the following tool:

Sharp scissors.
Handy and sharp knife.
Building hair dryer.
Roulette.
Roller for rolling (preferably made of metal).
Marker.
Solvent, white spirit, or acetone.
Clean rags.

All work will take no more than three days if carried out independently.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to completely disassemble the interior. All trim, front panel, seats must be dismantled. If there is a standard soundproofing VAZ-2110, it is necessary to completely remove it, get rid of the remnants using a sharp knife and acetone. When disassembling, do not try to lose the parts that hold all the elements.

Label the nuts and bolts to ensure they are in place during assembly. Small items must be folded into a bag and glued with adhesive tape to the part to which they belong. Only after careful preparation can the application of insulating materials be started. Be sure to vacuum all metal parts, treat them with a solvent so that the insulating material sticks better.

Ceiling and doors

The first step is to apply vibroplast to the metal surfaces of the door and ceiling. The entire surface must be cleaned and degreased. Work must be carried out very quickly while the material is hot. Vibroplast is heated with a technical hair dryer or an electric heater. Only in this case will it stick to the surface much better and take the form of a body element.

In order to apply vibroplast to the surface as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to use a metal roller. Try not to let air bubbles form. If even the slightest bubble appears, condensation will begin to accumulate in it, which will lead to the fact that the body will rust. On the ceiling and doors, it is necessary to glue the vibroplast crosswise, in which case it will last longer and stronger.

To make it convenient for you, you need to roll up the soundproofing material into a roll, and as you stick it, unfold it. The second layer of insulating material is splenite. Stick it on the ceiling and doors. Please note that when disassembling the door trim, several caps will definitely break. Therefore, such consumables must be acquired in advance.

Apply vibroplast on the door, splen on top of it. Make sure that the insulating material does not interfere with the normal functioning of all mechanisms and locks. The inner side of the door trim must be pasted over with bitoplast.

Interior and trunk lining

Now you need to soundproof the floor of the car. For this, vibroplast and splen are used. The vibroplast is laid in the first layer, it must be applied to the maximum area. Cover the material as best as possible so that it sticks to the metal surface. The second layer is applied splenitis. It must also be glued to the maximum area of the bottom of the cabin.

Recently, this type of sound insulation has become popular, such as applying a rubber-bitumen mixture to the bottom of the car from the outside. This reduces the level of vibration coming from the wheels and the road surface. But it will be much more effective if, at the same time, the inner surface of the bottom is processed. Inside the trunk, everything must be carefully glued with vibroplast. It will be a little more difficult here, since there is a niche for a spare wheel, protrusions for shock absorber struts, sometimes the edges of self-tapping screws come out.

Shutdown

The latest is to paste over the trunk lid, hood, dashboard elements. Try to apply insulating material to all dashboard elements that can be sources of squeaks and extraneous noise. After gluing is completed, you need to assemble the entire interior, install the instrument panel, door trim, lay the carpet and install the seats.

The better the soundproofing of the floor of the car, the less vibrations will be transmitted to the passenger compartment. After all the work done, the comfort will be much higher, the squeaks will disappear, even the engine will start to work quieter (according to sensations).

Categories

Popular