Cold roofing from corrugated board: device and technology. Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a cold roof What kind of waterproofing to lay on a cold attic

To understand how to properly insulate a roof, you need to understand its types. The most common types of roof structures are cold attic and attic. In the first case, insulation of the ceilings of the upper residential floor will be required (the air in the attic space does not warm up, hence the name). In the second - laying thermal insulation along the roof rafters. In today's article, we will analyze in detail the process of warming the roof of a cold attic.

The cold attic is the most common, time-tested roof structure that has been used around the world for decades. Widespread due to its simplicity, availability of materials and ease of installation. In addition, in the cold attic there is access to inspect the load-bearing structures of the roof, so possible leaks are easily localized and eliminated with improvised means.

Rice. 1. Cold attic insulation system: 1. Floor beams 2. Stone wool insulation 3. Vapor barrier film 4. Superdiffusion membrane 5. Sparse lathing 6. Inner lathing

As the basis for the attic, wooden floor beams and reinforced concrete slabs are most often used. Depending on the material chosen for the ceiling of the residential floor, the insulation system will differ. Wood is one of the best building materials that has a number of undeniable advantages: lightness, strength and flexibility. However, the wood is sensitive to moisture: waterlogged wood during operation can bend in an unpredictable way if it picks up moisture and then dries. Therefore, wet wood is not used in construction, and dry wood is carefully isolated from possible waterlogging during operation.

The ability of wood to absorb moisture affects the choice of all cold attic materials. So, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to a vapor-permeable material based on mineral wool: this material will pass all the wet steam through itself, leaving the beams dry. When choosing between glass wool and stone wool, one should remember the ability of the latter to protect the entire structure from the effects of open fire. The sintering temperature of glass wool fibers is only about 600 °C, and this temperature is reached already 5 minutes after the start of ignition. Therefore, only stone wool is able to protect load-bearing structures, extend the life of the house and, in case of fire, give more time to save people and property.

Here it is worth recalling that any organic heaters (foam plastics, polyurethanes) burn, so it is better not to use them when building a wooden or frame house. The burning of some of them is also accompanied by the release of toxic vapors into the atmosphere, the "splashing" of the melt, which poses an additional danger to people. The use of organic insulation in the floor construction requires mandatory protection with a cement-sand screed.

Many questions in the insulation system are caused by the use of various building films. Due to their incorrect location in the structure, the floor beams can begin to rot, which is why they subsequently lose their bearing capacity and collapse after a few years. To prevent this, when arranging a classic cold attic with wooden beams, it is customary to use two types of building films, which we will conditionally call “Internal” and “External”.

The “internal” film is laid from the inside of the heated room and prevents water vapor from entering the insulation from the room. Such a film is called a vapor barrier. When installing it, it is necessary to carefully glue all overlaps with butyl rubber tape, achieving tightness over the entire area. Interior decoration is carried out with a technical gap of at least 3 cm - to prevent local condensation of moisture on the vapor barrier.

Rice. 2.1. Cold attic ventilation scheme

The “external” film performs other tasks: it protects the insulation from moisture from the outside (snow, rain, fog), allows water vapor to escape from the system (if it suddenly appears there) and prevents heat from blowing out of the insulation. Some of these functions can be entrusted to ordinary plastic wrap, but it will not work to complete all the tasks at the same time. Most films either have low vapor permeability - and therefore must be installed with a second ventilation gap, or low water resistance - and therefore do not protect against water ingress into the insulation. The only type of film capable of solving all the tasks at the same time is called the "superdiffusion membrane". Such a membrane has a vapor permeability that significantly exceeds the parameters of the insulation, which allows it to be mounted close to it. And high water resistance allows you to protect the system from the ingress of external moisture in any form.

Thus, the insulation must be protected by a vapor barrier film from the inside and a superdiffusion membrane from the outside. It is good practice to lay a sparse lath of boards on top of the "top" membrane to prevent damage to the film or crushing of the insulation when walking in the attic.

Figure 2.2 Consequences of lack of ventilation (1 year, Minsk region)

Figure 2.2 Consequences of lack of ventilation (1 year, Minsk region)

Concluding the consideration of the design of a cold attic, it is imperative to pay attention to the issue of ventilation. A properly organized roof ventilation system (Fig. 2.1), despite the possible variety of designs, must have three mandatory components: an entry point, ventilation channels and an exit point. The channel for ventilation in a cold attic will be its entire volume. For normal operation, the temperature inside the cold attic must be equal to the street. For these purposes, the filing provides entry points for cold air - the so-called "vents". And in the upper part of the attic, you need to make air outlets with the help of dormer windows, ridge or point aerators.

Most often, in practice, one has to deal with a situation where the ventilation is disturbed: all the vents are filled with insulation, and the air from the street does not get inside. The second common mistake is the lack of dormer windows or aerators in the roofing. When arranging ventilation, it is worth remembering that the area of ​​​​the outlet openings should be 10% larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inlet openings. In this case, sufficient traction will be created. If the ventilation of the roof is broken, then the truss system is subjected to waterlogging, and the roofing material is subjected to additional overpressure from inside the room. This can lead to rotting of the truss system and loss of its bearing capacity (Fig. 2.2.), Premature destruction of the roofing. Therefore, effective ventilation is a prerequisite for the normal operation of a cold attic system.

In the case of installing a cold attic on a base of reinforced concrete slabs, the system can be simplified. Since reinforced concrete is vapor-tight and is not afraid of exposure to open fire, insulation can be made from organic materials. Here you have to choose from two types of polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foams are increasingly appearing on objects, but the sprayed compositions do not always have the declared stable properties after solidification, and their strength is sometimes insufficient for the dynamic effects of a pedestrian load. The well-known granular expanded polystyrene (EPS) is still used in construction today. However, it has already been replaced by more modern extruded (extrusive) expanded polystyrene (XPS), which is characterized by lower thermal conductivity (which reduces the required insulation thickness by 25%), reduced water absorption by 5 times and increased strength. When arranging a cold attic on reinforced concrete slabs using XPS, there is no need to spend money on the purchase and installation of building films: the material endures all external influences, is not afraid of blowing and even soaking.

To determine the required thickness of thermal insulation, we will use the method, which is described in detail in TKP 45-2.04-43-2006 “Construction heat engineering. Building design standards. According to this document, the minimum requirements for the thermal resistance of the structure are established. For a roof, it is taken at least six, and is calculated by the ratio of the actual thickness of the construction material (in this case, thermal insulation) to its thermal conductivity. Thus, the answer to the question "How to insulate the roof of a house?" - obvious: the required thickness of the insulation is calculated by multiplying the thermal conductivity of the material by six. This simple math will allow you to create a cold attic that fully meets all applicable standards. For full insulation in our climate zone, 25 cm of stone wool will be required. And when using extruded polystyrene foam, 20 cm will be enough. In a similar way, you can calculate the required thicknesses of other heat-insulating materials. For comparison: to get a similar indicator by backfilling expanded clay - you need a layer more than half a meter thick!

In the next part, we will tell about the device and proper insulation of the attic (warm attic).

Text: Andrey Povarnitsyn

Nowadays people know their rights. They know that if the roof leaked in their house, they can demand compensation for repairs and non-pecuniary damage from the responsible legal entity through the courts. Moreover, they know that this, as they say, is a sure thing - the court in the vast majority of such cases will be on the side of the plaintiff.

And the amount of compensation can reach hundreds of thousands of rubles. Every owner! Of which in the average apartment building from 12 to 24 - according to the number of apartments on the upper floors. And that's not including legal fees!

The reason that the roofs are flowing as scheduled is the practice of waterproofing the roof with cheap bitumen-based roll materials that has not been outlived since Soviet times. Every spring, the tenants rattle their anger at the management organizations, and things are still there.

But if earlier the case was managed only by complaints, now more and more often the culprit has to pay with the ruble. We have already said that people are now well aware of their rights! The desire to save on material for waterproofing the roof in our time can easily cause bankruptcy of the organization responsible for the operation of the house.

Well, roofing material cannot resist cold and seasonal temperature changes for a long time! It will definitely crack and start leaking water. As a result, it is necessary to update the waterproofing almost every year. It comes to the ridiculous - a multi-ton cake already reaches half a meter, and water flows through cracks in it, like through a sieve.

However, if you are one of the people responsible for repairing roofs in apartment buildings, you already know all this very well. Perhaps you also know that materials have long been invented that allow you to perform simply indestructible waterproofing that will not leak even once during the entire life of the house!

We are talking about waterproofing based on the so-called elastomers - polyuria or, as it was called in our country, polyurea, as a substrate under the waterproofing layer of which polyurethane foam is sprayed, which acts as a heat insulator.

Finally, forget about complaints and lawsuits from tenants forever!

Well, it's true! How many times can you step on the same rake every year!? After all, polyurea is a guaranteed protection against leaks.

She is resistant to severe mechanical stress: crows feasting on the roof, snow cleaners and other "saboteurs" will have to seriously sweat in order to somehow damage the waterproofing layer based on it. In other words, sending a team to the roof to clean the snow, you can no longer be afraid that after these blockheads frolic there, a flurry of complaints will traditionally fall on you about turning living rooms into showers.

Such coverage frost-resistant and easy tolerates temperature changes— normal operating mode is in the range from -40°C to +80°C. Which, by the way, cannot be said about many other coatings, for which, as we have already mentioned, this is generally a sore point.

Frost resistance is achieved, firstly, by the fact that the coating is completely seamless: there are no cracks into which water can penetrate and, freezing, expand them. Secondly, along with strength, polyurea also has incredible elasticity, which is almost unaffected by low temperatures. A polyurea film can be stretched over 20 times before breaking!

If you love the Russian winter and the bitter cold, then for the first time you will be able to calmly enjoy them without the latent thought that, perhaps, the waterproofing on the roofs of the houses under your jurisdiction is cracking right now. But it will be possible to check it only in the spring!

In addition, the coating is still stable ... So, wait ... Perhaps it will be easier to list what it is UNSTABLE to. There will be only one item on this list - ultraviolet. Under its influence, polyurea gradually fades. However, this problem is solved in the simplest way: on top of the waterproofing layer, you need to apply protective mastic- and the coating will become simply invulnerable.

And one more important point. Adhesion(the ability of the applied material to "stick" to the treated surface) coatings are very high. It tightly "grows" to almost all types of building materials. For example, the adhesion index to concrete is 19 kg/cm 2 . That is, to tear off a one-centimeter piece of coating applied to a concrete ceiling, you need to hang at least 19 kg from it.

Waterproofing based on elastomers is able to serve over 30 years and often much longer. To be honest, the house is more likely to go out of service than there will be problems with the waterproofing of the roof. Yes, and by that time, most likely, you will already be on a well-deserved pension, surrounded by love and honor: because, if a person knows how to think about others, this does not go unnoticed.

Polyurea and your career growth!

Unexpected, really! What is the connection? However, if you look at it, it becomes quite obvious.

Usually people move up the career ladder in two ways: either through connections, or through their personal qualities and the reputation acquired with their help. These qualities include not only professionalism and the ability to conduct business, here we are talking about a person’s worldview, his life position.

This is where the dog is buried! When you waterproof the roof with roofing material, your attitude towards the residents can be formulated with the words: “Here you are - and get rid of it. I don’t care that next spring you will again have to do repairs in the apartment!”

If you choose polyurea, you will get reputation as a problem solver, looming overhead for years like the sword of Damocles. Decide quickly and permanently.

Reputation. She cannot be overestimated! reputation among residents. reputation with superiors. These things are interconnected: there are no complaints - and higher authorities cease to perceive the area under your jurisdiction as a constantly aching sore tooth; there are gratitudes - believe me, people know how to be grateful - and the management will definitely pay attention to you, because such shots are truly worth their weight in gold.

Well, of course, professional reputation cannot be discounted either: conversations in the higher lobbies about you as a competent business executive who understands technologies and materials will definitely bear fruit!

Something else about technologies and materials

As we have already mentioned, often a cake is formed on the roof from outdated waterproofing up to one and a half meters thick. It can weigh tens of tons! If a similar situation has developed in the houses under your jurisdiction, then you understand that this can be fraught with various consequences, up to the collapse of the roof.

According to the mind, of course, it is necessary to remove all this, but circumstances do not always allow. In this case, polyurea is a real find:

• Except for some special cases old cake can not be touched;
• Coating very light- it will not significantly affect the load that the roof bears;
• Polyurea based waterproofing will the last layer of the pie- Finally, the annual increase in the load on the supporting structures of the roof will stop.

Another important point: the use of this technology allows you to achieve not only smooth, but also flawless aesthetic coverage point of view. In addition, if desired, you can pick a color suitable for the overall design of the house.

Why is this needed? But it may happen that after some time a high-rise building will be built nearby, the inhabitants of which, from the windows of their apartments, will contemplate the fruits of your waterproofing work day after day. If the color of the roof is not in harmony with the overall design, this will create the impression of a looming "eyesore", which is unlikely to contribute to the formation of a favorable opinion about you and your organization.

If we talk about the aesthetic component, then something else needs to be mentioned. In the process of coating spraying, we use a special robot installation. It completely controls the layer thickness, which not only avoids the appearance of even minor bumps but also to prevent waste of material. For large areas, this significantly affects the cost of coverage.

An added bonus to the variety of benefits you will receive by waterproofing your roof with polyurea are thermal insulation properties of the coating. We have already mentioned that a layer of polyurethane foam is used as a primer. Just two centimeters. Only! But, excuse me, these two centimeters in terms of their heat-insulating properties are equal to masonry two bricks thick!

As you know, a significant part of the heat from the apartment on the top floor comes out through the roof. After such waterproofing, heat loss will be minimized. In cold weather, you will no longer need to use electric heaters, and in summer you will have to turn on the air conditioner less often. For tenants, this is a big deal!

Oh, this notorious vapor permeability!

I would like to separately touch on such an issue as vapor permeability. Yes, polyurea has a very low vapor permeability of about 0.8 g/m 2 /h. That is, only 0.8 grams of moisture in the form of steam passes through a coating film with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bone square meter per hour. But let's see if the vapor permeability of the roof is generally needed at such an object as an apartment building.

Now it is fashionable to talk about "breathing" walls that let in steam generated as a result of various household processes - breathing, cooking, etc. However, in essence, only a canvas tent can be called a breathing house. She really "breathes" and lets steam through. All other houses, even if they are entirely made of wood, cannot “breathe”. This is just a myth invented by log cabin manufacturers in order to increase sales.

Any house, unless, of course, the wind whistles through the cracks in the walls, must have an exhaust hood. Otherwise, condensation will certainly accumulate inside and mold will form.

The volume of steam passing through the roof of a brick or panel apartment building is simply negligible compared to the volume discharged through the hood. Therefore, the vapor permeability index of polyurea has absolutely no significance in this case.

Three pillars on which the waterproofing of your roofs rests: equipment, materials and skills of workers

Do you know that even a slight inaccuracy when mixing components can lead to a deviation of the coating properties from the calculated ones?..

But not in the case of working with our company. After all, we use high-tech equipment firms Graco, Gusmer and Gama, differing in this matter in jewelry accuracy.

If you want to be convinced of the quality of the materials used, then we will present you at the first request. certificates, indicating that from this side you are not threatened with any surprises. In addition, you can familiarize yourself with them in the corresponding section of our website.

And finally, the most important - the skills of our employees. The founder of the company, Mikhail Kucherenkov, has been spraying elastomers for more than 15 years. He worked eight of them in Spain, adopting the experience of foreign specialists. Practice, experience and his own tricks, which he taught to all operators of our company's PPU units, are a guarantee that the coating will be performed at the highest level.

In order for you to see everything for yourself, on our website and on the YouTube channel we post videos of the spraying of polyurethane foam and polyurea. In addition, the site header contains announcements about upcoming online broadcasts from facilities where we will perform thermal or waterproofing. Look - in order to evaluate the work of a professional, in this case you do not need to be a specialist.

Minimum inconvenience during the waterproofing process

The uniqueness of polyurea-based waterproofing lies in the fact that it will not only save you from headaches about roofs for almost half a century, but also cause a minimum of anxiety during the work itself. See for yourself.

Coating speed

Oh, she is truly lightning fast! Both polyurethane foam and polyurea cure in less than a minute. Within five minutes, the layer acquires all those properties that will remain unchanged for many decades. It will not be necessary to wait until the first layer dries, then the second. Everything is done in hot pursuit.

It will take some time for the mastic to dry, which is needed to protect the coating from ultraviolet exposure. If one layer is applied, it will take 5-6 hours, if two - a day.

Thanks to such a speed of work, you, firstly, will be able to quickly satisfy the complaints of residents, and secondly, if the scope of work is large and the houses are not in Moscow, but somewhere in the region, the living expenses of our workers will be minimal.

No traces, except for high-quality waterproofing

When performing all types of work, we adhere to a simple principle: after our departure, there is nothing left but a job well done. We don't leave trash. If something was dismantled, moved or displaced to perform the work, we return everything to its place.

Simply put, you will not need to send another brigade to clean up after us.

Why customers not only choose us, but also hold on to us with both hands

Since we are talking about the benefits of working with us, we need to say one more thing. Kucherenkoff & Co is family business. What does it give you? Confidence that all employees are motivated to perform waterproofing at the highest level of quality.

In other companies, it often happens that workers are not personally interested in maintaining the impeccable reputation of their employer: for them, the main thing is to get paid. Therefore, they often steal and hack - after all, no one can notice a thinner layer and irregularities.

Everything is different with us: all our employees are relatives or friends, and we all perfectly understand that a good reputation is our capital! After all, our financial well-being depends on it!

Our second “fad” is the pedantic observance of the terms stipulated in the contract. You won't have to justify yourself to your tenants or your boss about delaying the problem of leaking roofs. In addition, we try to respond as quickly as possible to requests when urgency comes first.

Another plus, which is important for many of our customers, is consulting support. As in any business, there are many subtleties in the spraying of elastomers, which only a specialist knows about. This applies to both the application technology and the objects on which the work is performed.

It is precisely on the second point that we provide advice: we warn about possible difficulties, explain how to carry out the preparatory work, and much more. You can be absolutely sure that you are insured against any unpleasant surprises associated with waterproofing!

This is all, of course, good, but polyurea is an expensive pleasure!

Of course, this is one of the main objections that comes to mind when it comes to waterproofing based on polyurea. But, if you look, it turns out an interesting picture. For the sake of interest, sum up the funds spent on waterproofing with bituminous roll materials, at least over the past 10 years. Compare the received amount with our rates and, believe me, you will take a different look at the problem: after all, waterproofing will no longer require repairs!

By the way, about our rates. You can now calculate using the calculator below.

Even at the moment when a private house is just being built, you need to decide whether its attic will be warm or cold. Future waterproofing work depends on this, because it is one thing to lay insulation taking into account insulation, and it is quite another to use materials to equalize temperatures in order to prevent condensation on the roof surface. In general, it is possible to make waterproofing in the attic in an already finished house yourself, but it is better to entrust this matter to professionals.

Why do you need insulation and subsequent waterproofing of the attic from the inside

It would seem that if no one plans to use the upper part of the house for living, then why pay extra money for expensive materials? However, the answer to this question can be obtained almost immediately - as soon as the first bills for electricity and heating come in or the ceiling is painted with wet or fungal stains. In order not to bring to this, it is better to immediately organize the correct attic floor:

• provide insulation and waterproofing of the attic from above;
• carry out the installation of insulation on the floor.

In this case, the heat that enters your house from the batteries will not escape through the cold attic, which means that you can actually save on utility bills.

Materials for waterproofing the attic floor and their installation

Experts identify three main types of materials that can be used in the attic:

• ordinary films;
• anti-condensation films;
• diffusion membranes.

The first two types are mounted at some distance from the insulation to ensure proper ventilation of the entire pie. The membranes can be installed directly on the insulation itself, since they have good vapor conductivity with high waterproofing properties. The price for membranes is slightly higher than for films, and it is recommended to use them if the attic is planned as a living space or if thermal communications pass through it (chimney pipe, heating boiler, boiler, etc.). Properly installed hydraulic barriers from the inside will significantly extend the life of the entire roof as a whole.

Search for masters and waterproofing device services

If you do not want to deal with this issue on your own, you should hire a team of specialists who will quickly make the correct insulation and waterproofing of the attic space. You can calculate approximate prices for waterproofing an attic floor if you know:

• scope of work (area requiring installation of moisture protection);
• cost of materials (films or membranes).

You can always order high-quality services quickly and inexpensively on the YouDo website. Qualified craftsmen will help you install effective hydrobarriers, give you all the necessary advice, and select materials that are suitable for the price and quality.

Insulation of the attic floor refers to a greater extent to cold rooms that are not used as residential, that is, with an uninsulated roofing system and natural ventilation. In such cases, the attic floor becomes a kind of boundary between heat and cold, where the likelihood of condensate moisture is especially high. Interestingly, with such a responsible job, you can quite simply handle it yourself.

Why you need to insulate the attic

To install a roof slope, you need to adhere to a certain angle of inclination. It is formed between the rafters and the floor beams located on the upper part of the walls of the house. They form the floor of the attic. For technical work, a boardwalk is installed under them.

Timely insulation of the attic floor of the house is necessary for the following:

• Reducing heat loss through the top floor. Warm air rises, so the ceiling of the last floor of the house should be as isolated as possible from the effects of air from an unheated attic space. Good thermal insulation allows you to keep the temperature in the living quarters of the order of the dew point. The result of any violations will be condensation formed on the ceiling, and in just a few weeks there will be a need to repair it.
• Waterproofing. The correct configuration of the heat-insulating layer implies the mandatory installation of waterproofing materials. If a roof leak occurs, moisture should not penetrate into the living room.
• The difference in temperatures in the areas where floors and walls adjoin becomes a decisive factor for the occurrence of mold and microscopic fungi - the causative agents of various allergic diseases.

In fact, this is the arrangement of a durable and durable coating of a material for thermal insulation with low thermal conductivity.

Attention

Material of dubious quality or non-compliance with technology can lead to sad consequences.

Attic insulation requirements

Insulation of the attic floor of the house, its quality, significantly affects not only heat loss, but also the durability of the truss system and roofing. Water vapor from internal warm rooms diffuses intensively into the attic, but, as you know, in order for the insulation to provide the estimated efficiency of thermal insulation, it must be dry. Therefore, it is protected from moistening by warm air vapors by laying a vapor-tight material on the “warm” side.

Good steam and heat insulation, in addition to thermal protection, contribute to the durability of the roof structure. Indeed, in the absence of a vapor barrier, water vapor penetrates through the ceiling into the attic, condenses from the side of the attic on the surface of the roof covering and flows onto the rafters. As a result, metal coatings and parts corrode, wooden rafters and roofing cake are destroyed.

The thermal insulation properties of the structure are also reduced due to a violation of the tightness of the vapor barrier layer.

Drying the layer and removing moisture from the attic space helps its ventilation through the vents: ridge, cornice, as well as slotted and dormer windows. To ensure optimal ventilation intensity, the total area of ​​the ventilation openings should be about 0.2–0.5% of the attic floor.

Competently carried out work prevents the intensive formation of icicles on the roof. After all, how do icicles appear? If it is poorly insulated, the heat, having passed through it, begins to heat the roof, melting the snow lying on it. The resulting water, flowing down the roof, freezes and turns into icicles.

Insulation of the attic floor is almost always carried out not from the side of the living quarters, but from the floor of the attic. Performed in several ways. The choice of technology depends on the constructive solution of the structure and the used insulation.

Insulation of beam ceilings

An option for preserving heat in a similar design is between the beams. Usually, their height is enough for this, in case of shortage, you can stuff a bar on top. The overlap from below is sewn up with molded material, say, clapboard or sheets of drywall, and the subfloor of the attic is laid on top of the beams: sheets of plywood, OSB, MDF boards, etc.

The insulation must be laid on a layer of special vapor barrier or polyethylene film.

On a note

If the material is foiled, then lay it down with the shiny side.

The gap between the beams is then filled with insulation of the required thickness. It is recommended to lay an additional layer of insulation on top of the beams, so it will be possible to avoid "cold bridges" and reduce possible heat losses.

If high-quality, well-crafted timber is used for the beams, then the finish, say, a massive board, is laid directly on the beams. Insulation is placed between them, and the attic floor is laid on top. This technology is quite common in houses made of logs or timber.

Lightweight fibrous materials are blown through by air currents, drafts, that is, heat is removed from them. These troubles, of course, can be avoided if protection is provided with windproof vapor-permeable materials. Thus, the thermal protection of the attic is improved. Moreover, the insulation is protected from moisture droplets. let's say the roof has minor damage and minor leaks.

The insulation must be protected from the wind and from the side of the eaves. For this, high-density mineral wool slabs or a wooden board left by the rib are usually used.

It will ensure the full preservation of heat at home by a partial entry of thermal insulation on the outer wall.

What heaters are most often used

The installation technology is practically no different from the traditional floor for residential premises. It is important to choose the right material for the manufacture of a heat insulator. Recently, most often they make the insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool.

Why mineral wool?

This is a heat-insulating material made from basalt rocks of volcanic origin. They undergo heat treatment in a special drum-type furnace. During this process, the molten mass swells and is pulled into fibers. To form a dense material, they are processed with special binders.

As a result, a material unique in its properties is formed, which is successfully used for warming the attic floor. For an objective analysis, it can be compared with other types of heat insulators - and.

• Thermal insulation. The heat transfer coefficient for mineral wool is 0.035 W/m*K. In polystyrene, it is slightly higher - 0.04 W / m * K. Expanded clay has the worst performance - 0.4 W / m * k.
• Hygroscopicity. The foam does not allow moisture to pass through, so if the joints are insulated during installation, you can not use an additional waterproofing layer. Mineral wool is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture. But this does not lead to its swelling. Expanded clay also slightly absorbs moisture.
• Flammability. In this regard, basalt insulation is an ideal option. It does not burn, and the melting of its structure occurs when exposed to a temperature of 700°C. This quality is very important - a chimney passes through the attic, the surface temperature of which can reach high values. Styrofoam, when burned, releases substances harmful to humans.

Mineral wool can be used to insulate almost any surface, even uneven ones. It is produced in soft slabs or rolls. It is desirable to use a material having a metallized heat-reflecting surface. Mineral wool is cut with an ordinary knife. It is laid tightly between the beams, without jamming, without cracks. This is an inexpensive, but durable and effective option.

Work requires some precautions: goggles, gloves, and allergy sufferers are advised to use respirators.

Layers are laid in the same sequence:

• vapor barrier;
• mineral wool;
• vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

The floor film is overlapped, and the joints must be either glued or fixed through wooden slats with staples using a construction stapler. The thickness of the layer is selected based on the heat engineering standards for each specific region.

On a note

Warming and soundproofing the floor with cotton materials is considered the simplest and most effective solution.

stone wool

Mineral wool slabs today are often replaced with stone wool. Unlike mineral wool, which is often made from low-grade slag-basalt using bituminous binders, stone wool is an environmentally friendly material.

This insulation is distinguished by excellent characteristics - both technical and operational. The unique structure of the internal structure of stone wool: a chaotic arrangement of fibers, provides an effective thermal conductivity of 0.036-0.045 W/m*K. It significantly surpasses insulators of its class in these indicators, perfectly protects against temperature changes and guarantees microclimatic comfort.

Thermal insulation of tiles

The principle of warming precast concrete slabs or monolithic floors is similar to the same process in the case of a beam type. True, since the vapor permeability of reinforced concrete slabs is quite low, it is not necessary to perform vapor barrier on the "warm" side. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated taking into account the type of carrier board. Tiled, having a flat surface, is able to carry a large load.

How best to insulate

To begin with, wooden beams can be installed on the slabs and insulation can be placed between them. It can be backfill materials or mats of various types.

Mounting technology

To install mineral wool, you will need to first prepare the attic. To do this, remove everything superfluous from there. The surface of the subfloor is cleaned from dust and dirt. If it is a wooden flooring, it is recommended to install a waterproofing layer.

It is best to use rolled polyethylene foam for this. This film for floor insulation, in addition to thermal insulation properties, has almost zero moisture absorption. A slight thickness (2-4mm) will not affect the increase in the insulation layer.

It is important to choose the right thickness of basalt wool - it should not exceed the height of the log, taking into account the waterproofing layer. Often, models with a thickness of 50 mm and a density of up to 30 kg / m³ are used.

The installation technology consists in the implementation of the following stages of work.

• Preparatory work. Before installation, the chimney pipe must be insulated. This is necessary to prevent direct contact of its surface with the heat insulator. The best option is to make a small circular masonry of refractory bricks around the pipe.

• Installation of insulation on the floor should be carried out only after the installation of thermal insulation on the inner surface of the roof slope. This additional measure will significantly improve the rate of thermal energy conservation not only in the attic, but also in the whole house as a whole.
• Installation of waterproofing protection. As mentioned above, it is best to use polyethylene foam for attic waterproofing. It should be located on the entire surface of the subfloor, including on the floor beams. The joints are isolated with a special adhesive tape.

For fastening, you can use double-sided adhesive tape, but you can not use a construction stapler or nails. This may lead to leakage.

• Installation of a heat insulator. Proper insulation of the floor of a cold attic begins with a miscalculation of the amount of material. The main indicators are the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the distance between the beams. The latter is necessary to select the optimal model of insulation. The width of standard plates is 600 mm.

If the distance between the floor elements is greater, you need to use a roll type of mineral wool. Depending on the manufacturer, its width can reach 1 m.

Having calculated the required amount of insulation, you can proceed with its installation.

Roll material is installed from the roof. The edge of the heat insulator should slightly go to the surface of the slope - this will help to avoid the appearance of gaps between the various layers of the heat-insulating layer.

The material is firmly pressed against the floor surface. Additional fastening is not required for it. When the entire surface between the beams is insulated, the roll is cut with a knife.

The rest of the attic floor is installed in the same way. After that, a technological wooden flooring can be installed on top of the beams. These can be ordinary boards, the thickness of which can withstand the weight of an adult.

Backfilling of thermal insulation material

Backfilling of insulation can be performed without a lag device. Expanded clay or slag is poured in a layer of 25–30 cm, leveled and poured with a thin layer of screed. It is recommended to stick roofing material on the slabs.

It is also possible to insulate without an overlap lag using a rigid insulation. The most effective, but also expensive, is foam glass. Sometimes foam concrete is used, however, it is somewhat heavy and the estimated height of its layer should be approximately 40 cm. In this case, a screed is not made.

Proper insulation of the attic floor is the main factor in keeping the heat in the house. It is important to observe the sequence of installation of all materials of the heat-insulating layer. You should also worry about the safety of operation - a protective structure around the chimney must be equipped.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in houses with a cold attic is considered the most important construction stage. Vapor barrier components do not allow moisture to pass through, prevent condensation on the supporting structures, protect the insulation from the appearance of microorganisms, mold. The installation of this system protects building materials from destructive processes for it, leading to the gradual destruction of structures. In this material, we will analyze in detail how to properly install insulation and moisture and wind protection on the attic floor.

The role of moisture insulation in residential buildings cannot be overestimated. In everyday life, the air in the rooms is constantly saturated with water vapor. This is moisture from cooking, a working shower, evaporation from the human body and from his breath. All this air with the smallest suspensions of water does not disappear without a trace. It is absorbed into the partitions and insulation of the walls and ceiling of the house, which leads to a deterioration in the properties of the materials from which they are made.

Known fact: fungi and mold feel great and actively multiply in heat and moisture. Such a microclimate is formed in a room with high humidity, and it is detrimental to any building materials.

Most of the territory of our country is dominated by a cold climate, so almost all the time in the houses it is necessary to maintain a high temperature. Warm, humid air from the premises moves, according to the laws of physics, into the environment. But on the way, he has construction floors: a ceiling and a roof. So that the evaporating moisture does not linger and does not settle on the structures, they must be protected in a special way.

If the vapor barrier was initially installed correctly, the process of moving air into the external environment will not cause any damage to the building. But if the technology has been violated, excess moisture in the house threatens it with rapid cooling, especially in winter, as well as dampness in the rooms. The result may be the need for a major overhaul of the entire structure.

Why do a vapor barrier in the attic

The cold attic itself consists of a roof with two slopes, which is sheathed on the outside with roofing material, as well as floors with insulation that separates the attic from the living rooms. Be sure to equip the attic space with ventilation windows - they prevent moisture condensation.

The attic floor is also the ceiling of the room below. When it is cold outside, the temperature in the attic also drops, but indoors it remains the same. Because of this difference, the top of the attic floor is cold, and the bottom is warm. This is how condensation occurs. To prevent moisture from entering the ceiling, it is covered with a special protective moisture-proof material.

Vapor barrier is installed on any floor base. During construction, floors are insulated with fiberglass (glass wool), special mats (for example, isover plates) or loose thermal insulation. All structural elements are subject to insulation (only ventilation holes remain). This material does not allow warm air to pass through, keeping it indoors. Thanks to this, you can reduce the heating and save on heating.

How to protect the attic floor from moisture

Thermal insulation in its structure is a multilayer cake. One of its layers is a vapor barrier film, which should prevent the penetration of moisture into the structure of the structure.

To protect the insulation from evaporation, a vapor barrier film is installed in front of the insulation layer (from the side of the living rooms). The vapor permeability of the film should exceed that of thermal insulation - this will allow you to quickly remove moisture that has got through the protection into the insulation.

There are 2 reasons for vapor deposition on floor structures. The first is due to the release of household fumes and their diffusion through the ceiling. The second is the occurrence of dew due to the temperature difference between the interior and the unheated attic.

A vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling if it is assumed that the attic will be unheated. The rest of the space is not subject to insulation, because. it is uninhabited. But protection of slopes and rafters is necessary, these are:

• waterproofing - to eliminate external influences from the street.
• natural ventilation - from condensate that appears due to the temperature difference in the street and in the house. According to the regulations, the total area of ​​all ventilation openings must be at least 1/300 of the floor area or roof projection (horizontally). If the ventilation is arranged correctly, in winter the difference in temperature indicators in the attic and on the street will be no more than 5-6 degrees.

Rules for installing vapor barrier and ventilation for a cold roof

It is not necessary to install a cold attic vapor barrier on the roof slopes. Films made of polyethylene and polypropylene, as well as roofing material and glassine, are not suitable for waterproofing a cold roof. These materials trap steam-laden air, which causes moisture and condensation to form on the inside of the film.

Cold corrugated roofing can be ventilated through the ridge: thanks to the counter grate, air passes through the roof covering through the cornice overhang to the outside.

In a cold attic, there must be properly positioned dormer windows to fully ventilate the space. If the attic is very large, then the system is supplemented with a forced hood.

The ventilation system is a mandatory addition to the vapor barrier

The possibility of warming a cold attic in the future

If the cold roof is supposed to be insulated and converted into a living room, when creating waterproofing, you need to take not a perforated film, but a special membrane. The reason is that it is impossible to attach a heater to the film without a gap - if this is done, it will let moisture through. To prevent this from happening, you need to leave a small gap (5 cm).

This does not happen with membranes, they can be placed on the insulation without any problems, and they also reduce the thickness of the roofing cake by up to 10 cm. Of the minuses - the high price.

The converted roof does not need vapor barrier, because. moisture will not accumulate in the insulation, but will calmly escape into the atmosphere through the membrane or film.

Features of creating a vapor barrier

When creating a vapor barrier for attic floors, it is necessary to choose materials with a minimum vapor permeability (volume of evaporation per unit area - mg / m2). This indicator is indicated on all building materials.

Preference is given to materials with parameters of zero or slightly more, but necessarily less than that of thermal insulation.

Wood is an excellent conductor of moisture, but its accumulation in this material can lead to its decay and deformation. This feature is taken into account in the manufacture of building materials from wood. But when building a house, one must not forget about the vapor barrier of such elements and choose components with minimal evaporation rates to protect them.

The general procedure for laying vapor barrier is as follows:

• first, materials with minimal vapor permeability;
• then, as this indicator increases, all the rest.

And when insulating the attic along the beams in the wooden floor (when viewed from the room):

Vapor barrier- glassine, membrane, film. Placed on floors during construction. And during the repair - it is fixed with rails on the room ceiling.

Thermal insulation layer. It is placed between the beams; sometimes - on the floor. For a cold attic, waterproofing and wind protection are not provided (the ceiling is protected from the wind by the roof).

waterproofing layer- membrane or polyethylene; it is laid only if the attic space is planned to be inhabited. Placed under decking or flooring. If the attic is non-residential, waterproofing is done on the slopes of the roof - to protect against rain and snow.

The process of installing vapor barrier on floor beams in the attic

Important! When laying vapor barrier over wooden beams, it is necessary to form a continuous carpet that completely covers all structural elements. Additionally, it is necessary to provide for an overlap on the walls or roof and exclude contact of the insulation with wooden floor elements.

We must not forget about the need to create a system of ladders that allow you to repair and maintain the roof (for example, to prevent caking of the insulation, which worsens its function). They are placed on logs - when using thermal insulation in rolls or tiles. Or put on columns - if the thermal insulation is bulk.

The protective vapor barrier material must be laid correctly: freely, with an overlap (in accordance with the instructions) on the walls and covering all the structural elements of the attic - beams, compartments, cells, corners, the ceiling from the inside (during repairs to improve insulation). Therefore, you need to cut out the material with a margin. If necessary, strips of material can be glued together with reinforced, and foil insulators with similar tape (it is advisable to make joints on logs). You need to fix the film with thin slats - for better fixation and protection from damage.

Important rule: sagging or deformation of pieces of vapor barrier is not allowed; at the same time, they should lie freely so that they do not tear during temperature changes.

The material is laid after preliminary preparation: when used in wood construction, a heater is laid, and then a ceiling vapor barrier. If the height of the lag and the thickness of the insulation coincide, a counter-lattice is placed. Vapor barrier for wooden ceilings under the attic must be continuous so as not to allow moisture to pass through.

An air gap between the insulation is required

When using concrete in ceilings or on a flat roof, waterproofing is first installed, and then the crate (its height should provide free ventilation, and the installation step should be several centimeters narrower than the heat insulator).

Video: an example of laying a vapor barrier for a cold attic roof

What kind of insulation to choose. Pros and cons of different materials

The choice of the correct vapor barrier material is very important, since the effectiveness of the thermal insulation cake depends on it, and on its combination with insulation.

In ancient times, this role was played by clay mixed with soil and plants (peat, shavings, sawdust, foliage, etc.). She protected the floors from temperature extremes.

Modern steam and heat insulators allow you to make procedures for their laying faster and easier. But, according to professionals, they are often inferior in quality to old materials.

For reference. Vapor permeability as a characteristic of the material indicates how many grams of water in the form of steam can pass per day through each square meter of the film. If this amount is expressed in tens of grams, then such a material is called a vapor barrier. The lower this indicator, the less steam will pass to the heater.

Types of modern vapor barrier

glassine - an inexpensive option (indicator 70 mg / m2 per day) for residential buildings with a stable level of humidity. Plus - perfectly prevents the passage of moisture, and minus - low air conductivity.

Polypropylene or polyethylene films (often reinforced; 3-5 mg/sq.m per day). This material tolerates temperature fluctuations well; resistant to physical impact and ultraviolet. Ideal for wooden structures. Polyethylene is suitable for warm regions of the country: at low temperatures, it quickly loses its properties. The disadvantage of polyethylene is that it tears easily, so it is difficult to lay it.

Polyethylene film - the simplest type of film vapor barrier

Polypropylene film is stronger than polyethylene; can be produced with additives of viscose and cellulose, which makes it stronger and more hygroscopic. Minus - when installing it, good ventilation of the room is required, otherwise the water accumulating on the insulator will not be able to evaporate.

Polypropylene film - a more practical type of vapor barrier for the attic

Foil-coated membranes (0.04-2.55 mg / m2 per day) - an option for houses with high humidity and frequent temperature changes (baths, pools, etc.). Withstand high temperatures and well impede the passage of steam.

Membrane - the most modern type of vapor barrier

Types of membranes:

• Kraft paper:
  • foil - easy to install, but not resistant to microorganisms; poor hygroscopic properties.
  • with lavsan coating - very high temperature indicators (ideal for saunas and baths), but does not tolerate the effects of detergent chemicals.
• Foil-sheathed fiberglass fabric - considered the best of materials; minus - high cost.

Anti-condensation diffusion membranes (3-15 mg / sq.m per day) - a novelty in vapor barrier; installation is possible on any side of the thermal insulation layer. The material is double-sided: the rough side is placed against the flowing air vapor, the smooth side does not allow water inside.

All membrane vapor barriers are capable of passing moist air in only one direction, which ensures a quick outflow of water and good air exchange throughout the room. When installing membranes, good ventilation is also required.

Liquid vapor barrier materials - varnishes and mastic and. After application, a film is formed that retains water, but allows air to pass through. Plus - it practically negates the possibility of mold or mildew. Minus - not all funds, due to their composition, can be used in residential buildings.

Liquid hydro-vapor barrier

Modern new coatings - an analogue of varnishes and mastics, with properties similar to them; used to vapor barrier the ceiling from a cold attic or flat roof.

Table. Comparative characteristics of popular vapor barrier brands

Types of vapor barriers

For proper installation of vapor barrier, you need to correctly determine its type:

Type A- passes the steam coming from the room through itself, allowing it to evaporate from the other side, but does not allow moisture to penetrate from the side of the street (rain, snow). Installed on a sloping roof.

Type B- a classic vapor barrier that does not allow condensation. It is important to mount the side with the film to the insulation, and the rough surface to the outside. Minus - only suitable for insulated roofs.

Type C- dense, thick membranes, very strong and durable. The laying rules are similar to type B. It can be used as an addition on non-insulated or flat roofs.

Type D- polypropylene fabric; one side is laminated. Has high rates of mechanical impact; a wide range of applications, especially for places with high humidity.

Rules for laying vapor barrier

If the material has the same sides on both sides, then it does not matter how the material is laid. But if the parties are different, you must adhere to the following rules.

We distinguish the sides of the vapor barrier

Usually, an indication of the outer and inner sides of the material is in the instructions. If it is absent, but you need to be guided by the rule - then the side that is lighter in color is placed next to the insulation.

Rolled insulation is wound by the manufacturer so that it remains just to unfold and lay it without turning it over.

If the surfaces of the vapor barrier are different, the smooth side is considered to be the inside (placed to the insulation), and the rough side is considered the outside.

Different sides of films

How to fix?

Strengthen the material with a stapler, nails with a large hat or a counter rail.

How to determine the membrane inlet?

The material will indicate how wide the overlap should be (8-20 cm). The width of the overlap depends on the place of laying:

• on the roof horizontally from bottom to top - 15 cm;
• in the skate - 18 cm;
• in the valley - 25 cm;
• on other elements - 10-5 cm.

The opening of the membranes during mounting must be mandatory

Is an air gap required at the membrane?

It is always necessary to make an air gap (5 cm) near the membrane - it is necessary for ventilation. In the case of a diffusion material, the gap is left outside, and the film is laid on the insulation.

Do joints need to be processed?

The places where the pieces of the vapor barrier are connected to each other, as well as their connections to window and door openings, must be glued with special self-adhesive tapes (they can also repair torn insulation). Scotch tape is not suitable for such work.

Video: how to properly vapor barrier an attic floor

Overview of the main vapor barrier manufacturers

There are several popular manufacturers of vapor barriers on the market:

1. Ursa Pure One outperforms all other companies in quality (according to the Test Purchase program).
2. The manufacturer "TechnoNIKOL" does not lag behind the leader either in quality or in the use of the latest technological developments. This is a domestic company producing a very high quality product.
3. Ecolife products are good for both industrial and residential construction, but are not suitable for creating a temporary roof.

The top three did not include:

• The Polish company "Fakro" - the company's products are distinguished by the fact that they are able to withstand very low temperatures.
• "Ondutis" - low prices, excellent connecting tapes, roll materials.
• "Tyvek" - products provide ideal protection from the wind.
• German DELTA - steam and wind protection.

Video: how to distinguish a vapor barrier film from a waterproofing film

Summing up

As you can see, the vapor barrier of the attic floor is a very important stage in the construction of a house. Both the functioning of building structures and the health and well-being of residents depend on properly selected materials and high-quality installation. We hope that this material will help you deal with the issues of vapor barrier of the attic ceiling.