How to make a small table How to make a country table. DIY coffee table from pallets

In the 40s of the last century, the loft architectural style began to gain popularity in the United States. It originates in the industrial areas of New York, where a lot of industrial premises were abandoned by their owners due to rising land prices. Bohemians were the first to notice them, and after the purchase they began to use the abandoned factory buildings to create housing and place furniture. It turned out cheaply and tastefully, which allowed the style to remain popular until today. Now such an arrangement of an apartment is very popular, and do-it-yourself loft-style furniture is great for both private houses and offices.

When creating loft-style furniture, materials are used that usually go to a landfill during a major overhaul. This explains its low cost. Old metal pipes and rough-hewn boards in skillful hands will turn into magnificent loft-style designer pieces. The only limitation when choosing a material is the overall style of the house. Loft furniture should emphasize it, so you have to think about the color scheme and the overall interior. Wood and metal are the most used materials in the loft. The elements of decor are things made of concrete or roughly hewn stone. There is no need to purchase noble materials like marble for decoration. Plastic is an undesirable raw material, because it does not correspond to the style direction. The loft originates in industrial premises, so the material should be similar to that used in the design of industrial buildings. However, it is not always possible to find deck boards or metal barrels. Then the thing can be artificially aged, giving it a casual look.

The easiest way to make loft-style sofas, beds, ottomans and tables for various purposes. To create the first two, you will need used varnished pallets. It will be enough to put pillows and a mattress on top. Metal structures found, for example, at a local factory, can act as a bed frame. If there is sufficient skill in working with metal, then they can be altered to your taste, covered with a cloth. Deck boards will be a non-standard and original choice as the basis for a loft-style bed. The sofa can also have a similar design, but also have its own characteristics. For example, metal barrels are suitable for the base. The top is carefully cut off, the surface is polished, then the sofa is filled with a durable substance and soft pillows are placed on top.

Ottomans are obtained from pallets, metal or wooden barrels, industrial mechanisms, even old suitcases. Tables can also be made from anything, the main thing is that there is enough imagination and skills. Everything will be used - from old boards and solid layers of wood to the frames of sewing machines. Even wooden cable spools can be turned into a stylish coffee table.

What can be made

There is no such furniture in the loft style that could not be made independently. Moreover, it can be structures of various sizes and purposes.

pallet bed

This option is increasingly becoming popular due to two factors - originality and cheapness. Pallets can be purchased for 100-150 rubles, and the most expensive part of the structure will be the mattress. It is best to purchase pallets with the EUR / EPAL marking. Due to their high quality, they will last longer. Often, new or used pallets are in a damp state. Therefore, you should first sand them with sandpaper and paint. You can leave the natural look by using wood impregnation, or you can experiment with color. The originality of the composition of the loft depends on the ability to find a use for things that are no longer new. If the budget is limited, the pallet is made by hand from the boards, but there will be more hassle. In addition, these beds have one major drawback - the inconvenience of cleaning. However, it will not be so important for true connoisseurs of the loft.

For a standard pallet bed you will need:

• three pallets sized 120x80;
• primer and paint on wood;
• roller and brush for coloring;
• grinder and sandpaper.

First you need to walk along the wooden surface with a grinder, and smooth out those places where it did not reach with sandpaper. Then the pallets are wiped with a damp cloth. Next comes the woodworking with primer and paint. If necessary, apply two layers. The pallets are then stacked one by one to form a bed frame. In conclusion, it remains to put a mattress and pillows on top. There is a more functional option with niches. To create such a bed, eight pallets and an additional wood drill will be required. First, you need to remove the extra boards so that niches for the boxes form when applied. Then the process is repeated: cleaning with a grinder or sandpaper, wiping with a damp cloth, processing with a primer and paint. It is recommended to leave the pallets to dry overnight. Photos of pallet loft beds can be found below.

Draft assembly

The basis of the future bed

Installing pallets on the base

From above, the base is upholstered with a soft cloth or carpet

table

The design of a standard loft-style table, which is sold in the store, is very simple - a wooden tabletop on a metal frame in the shape of a parallelepiped. But such elementality hides a considerable price, so it is best to do such a thing with your own hands. For this you need:

• two fir boards measuring 250 * 15 centimeters;
• three pine beams 250 * 5 centimeters;
• 30 7 cm screws;
• grinder or sandpaper;
• drill;
• dark walnut and ebony wood stain;
• polyurethane varnish.

Before assembly, you can make drawings on the computer.

The process is as follows: first, the frame is assembled with the help of screws. It is recommended to pre-drill holes for fasteners in each corner. Then the boards are polished, and the countertop is impregnated with "dark walnut". The frame for the table is treated in two layers with "ebony" to give it a metallic look. Using twelve screws, the tabletop is attached to the frame. Then the table is turned over and three screws are screwed into each board from the inside out.

Instruments

Fixing leg corners

Fixing leg corners

Leg attachment

Bedside table

Probably the easiest loft-style piece of furniture to make is a bedside table. It can be made from metal racks or handles, but sometimes a painted metal barrel is sufficient. Sometimes, for the sake of the industrial roots of the loft style, the role of a bedside table is played by two cinder blocks placed together. The main thing is that the material makes one of the most expressive parts of the interior from the simplest element of furniture. In addition to originality, a bedside table can have many functions. To make it, you need pine boards, two pieces of pipe with a diameter of half an inch, four wheels for furniture:

• first, the side parts of the cabinet are assembled. Small strips with pre-prepared holes are attached to each other with glue;
• two holes are made on each of the boards. Before that, you should check them for a match in size - they must be the same;
• two boards are screwed to the middle and bottom shelf. In order for them to be the same, planks are attached to the middle;
• the lower part is installed under the side bases with glue and euro screws;
• the remaining strips are installed on the sidewalls from above. The top shelf is assembled from three boards;
• holes prepared in advance are filled with a special composition;
• defects on the walls should be removed with sandpaper;
• the nightstand is covered with stain and left to dry. After applying one layer of varnish;
• when it dries, wheels are installed on the screws with glue at the bottom of the tube.

wooden pallets

Bedside table width

Finished frame for the frame

Grinding workpieces

Table top assembly

Wall mounting

Making a box

Finished box

Shelf making

Cutting a hole in the shape of a heart

Closet

The largest piece of furniture on this list. For its manufacture, wood and metal are best suited. A great addition would be to use two types of wood. Standard decorative ornaments, especially in the form of flowers or ornaments, will turn out to be superfluous. Loft is an industrial style, and “tenderness” in the ornament will be inappropriate. If the cabinet has mirrors, then they should be decorated in a classic way or in the form of fragments. Some decor is allowed, but it must be industrial. For example, doors made in the form of wooden shutters. Loft-style wardrobes can be:

• case - have a full-fledged frame, they are not particularly difficult to move;
• built-in - they make the most practical use of space and do not contain walls. Perfect for small apartments
• semi-embedded - part of the frame, for example, a wall, is missing;
• diagonal - well suited for dwellings with a large area;
• trapezoidal - the side wall will be smaller than the other. The cupboard is turned by it towards the doorway.

Sometimes you don't have to do it all over again. An ordinary old cabinet is decorated with metal brackets or rivets, which makes it look like steel doors at the factory. Nails with decorative caps are well suited for this purpose.

In addition to metal fixtures, staining and subsequent wrapping with a cloth are suitable. In the photo, the loft closet is guaranteed to look like a passage on a warship. To give style features, you don’t have to do a complete rework, just add a few details. For example, from an old barn or abandoned construction site, you can take a wooden ladder, clean it and use it for tall cabinets.

The photographs show the above-described pieces of furniture in the loft style. They will help you understand what this direction is. Particular attention should be paid to the description of the pallet, which can be useful if the furniture elements of the loft are made independently.

built-in

Wardrobe

We will send the material to you by e-mail

It seems that people lived without coffee tables and can live on. But if you look at the thing from a different angle, it turns out that the interior becomes more perfect, complete, and the thing turns out to be very comfortable. Talked on the phone - put the mobile on the table. I read a book - it is convenient to leave it on the table in order to return to reading soon. Do I need to go and buy a product?

The more complex the design, the more difficulties await in the work.

To create a table, they take into account their physical and financial capabilities, the availability of the necessary materials and tools, skills in handling them and free time.

How to prepare do-it-yourself drawings with dimensions for a coffee table

Even those people who did not draw at school are faced with the need to work according to the drawings. For the manufacture of some models, a drawing may not be required, but for a coffee table made of wood with your own hands you cannot do without it.

To build their own drawing, they are armed with a large sheet of paper, a pencil, a ruler and a tape measure. The dimensions of the future product are measured with a tape measure, it must fit freely into the allotted place in the room.

All dimensions are fixed, and with the help of a ruler they are transferred to paper. All parts are cut according to the drawings. Do not forget to add the thickness of the legs and countertops to the drawing.

What materials can a coffee table be made from?

Let's decide what kind of model should be in the room. There are different options, and each has its own nuances.

In any case, it will not be superfluous to prepare a hacksaw, hammer, scissors, pliers, fasteners, carpentry or furniture glue, screws and nails.

Related article:

DIY furniture made of wood: for garden, children's room, kitchen, sauna, garden, arbor; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and recommendations from experts - read our publication.

tabletop

The tabletop determines not only the appearance of the product, but also the decor of the room. It is not at all necessary to make a standard rectangular or square countertop, its shape can be unique. Also, the type of countertop is a determining factor for which style the product is suitable for.

It is more difficult to work with glass without skills, if there are none, it is better to turn to a professional.

Coffee table legs

The legs must be strong and be able to easily support not only the weight of the countertop, but also the items placed on top. The type of legs matches the style of the tabletop.

Advice! You can take the legs from old furniture, cleaning them and processing them.

Related article:

: photo of the best ideas. What can be done from a pallet for an apartment, office and cottage; rules for the selection and processing of pallets; master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and shelving - read in our publication.

Making your own wood coffee table

How do you want such a wooden coffee table as in the photo! If the desire to have a thing made of wood is strong, then there is no point in stopping yourself: arm yourself with tools, study articles on processing and teak wood, and “full speed ahead”!

Table in country style from a wooden barrel

A do-it-yourself coffee table made of wood and a barrel looks amazing on the photo. Country style is not as rustic as it seems, with such a table it is something exquisite.

Making your own coffee table from chipboard

Relatively inexpensive material, and the finished product looks modern and stylish.

Let's try to make a table step by step:

1. Creating a drawing.
2. Preparation of material and tools.
3. Work with a jigsaw - all the details are transferred to a chipboard sheet and cut out.
4. The legs are attached to the back of the tabletop lying on the floor with the help of furniture corners.
5. All edges of chipboard are pasted over with matching furniture edges.

The more complex the drawing, the more attention is needed in the work.

How to make a coffee table from chipboard

A plywood coffee table is made in a short time. Tip for inexperienced craftsmen: sawing all the details can be ordered at a building materials store. Based on a sheet thickness of 18 mm, we order 800 × 800 mm - a tabletop, 460 × 100 mm - four strips, 700 × 500 mm - a shelf, 700 × 500 mm - two bottoms, four plastic corners, eight confirmations and self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm (16 pieces should be enough). All elements must be covered with melamine edging.

Let's move on to assembly:

1. According to the drawing, we cut out the required shape of the shelf with a jigsaw. Be sure to use a fine pitch woodcarving file.
2. We fasten the vertical strips to the countertop using corners and self-tapping screws.
3. In the middle of the slats, you need to install a shelf on confirmations. To screw them in, we pre-drill holes with a 4.5 mm drill. Also, confirmations need to be screwed to the bottom.
4. All conspicuous confirmations are covered with stubs.

Advice! Optionally, such a table is installed on wheel supports.

We make a glass table with our own hands

For lovers of everything airy and spacious, a glass model is suitable. In the absence of glass handling skills, it is better to stop on a table without unnecessary details.

Assembly:

1. Drawing a drawing and making cardboard patterns according to it.
2. Glass cutting according to the pattern.
3. Sanding the edges with sandpaper or a drill at low speeds.

The tabletop assembly scheme is shown in the photo below.

You can add a glass top to a table made of car discs, barrels, wood, saw cuts, pallets.

Making your own coffee table from improvised materials

A favorite topic for many creative people is how to use improvised materials for practical use. Products from tires are especially popular - they are convenient to install in summer cottages and verandas, and from suitcases that have served their time as travelers.

Tire table

There are different ideas on how to use tires as a table. What pleases, such products are durable, original and take a minimum of time in the manufacture.

Here is a small instruction for creating a furniture garden set with a small table at the head.

Illustration	Action Description
	Prepare 11 tires of the same diameter. We take two tires on the chair and connect them with ourselves using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. For the table we take three tires.
	We cut out 4 circles from plywood (pressed chips) with a size slightly larger than the inner diameter of the tire, and one large circle for the countertop.
	The result is a cute garden set.

Table-suitcase

Do you have an old suitcase? How wonderful!

So, what is needed for such a rapid transformation? Four stable legs of any type - the main thing is that they are combined with the final decor option and can easily withstand the product. Legs can be bought on Avito or torn off from old unnecessary furniture, made on a lathe. As a painting, you can take white enamel, as it is easy to decorate. But, in general, the color can be any, up to gilding. If the appearance of the suitcase is perfectly preserved, then you can not paint it. If you wish, you also need PVA glue, decoupage napkins, brushes, sandpaper, gold or silver acrylic.

First paint the base and let it dry. All irregularities are sanded, and a second layer of enamel is applied. Now we paint the legs and, as soon as they dry, glue them with furniture glue to the base. That's all the work! We turn the table and admire the result of labor.

How to make a coffee table with additional elements with your own hands

If the hostess loves permutations, or the table needs to move, wheel supports are attached to the legs as an additional element. It is very comfortable. If the table is small, then it can be served for tea in the kitchen and rolled into the living room. Drawers are another additional and functional element. It turns out that the table becomes doubly comfortable.

Table on wheels

To create a coffee table on wheels with your own hands, ready-made wheel supports are required. A small photo gallery of tables on wheels: they may not necessarily be small, large metal or plastic wheels look even more interesting!

The wheels are attached to the legs when the supports themselves are already attached to the table top.

Table with drawers

Drawers can be from one to three or four, it depends on the model of the table.

To assemble a simple box, you need 4 small panels of chipboard, wood glue, rails, and self-tapping screws.

After fixing all the guides, check the smoothness and accuracy of the stroke. Then we assemble the box and simply insert it into the guides.

Do-it-yourself restoration of a coffee table: photos of interesting ideas

DIY coffee table decor is limited by the creator's imagination. Any fantasy can be realized with effort. The decor must be chosen according to the style of the room, otherwise the dissonance will make the thing superfluous. But if you do not want to make a new coffee table with your own hands? Then you need to learn how to restore the old one.

Decoupage is an interesting technique using PVA glue, beautiful napkins. If you want to make decoupage antique, then use crackle varnish.

The photo below is the answer to the question of how to update the coffee table with your own hands.

If the furniture needs to be updated due to its condition, then the first thing to do is turn the table over onto the countertop and check the fastening of the support legs. If something needs to be corrected, then there is no point in delaying it - the furniture will continue to deteriorate faster. You can simply repaint the table, sand it and try to paint it.

PVA is applied to the countertop, scraps are laid. At first, the leaves may lie unevenly, but as they dry, they will even out. At the end, the product is varnished.

Article

Do you love designer clothes, but sigh in frustration when you look at the price tags that adorn them in stores? Try to become a designer yourself. Think it's difficult? Nothing like this! By following the instructions, you can easily create do it yourself original a piece of interior from improvised materials. And we propose to start with coffee table- such a simple, but very important subject furniture. Believe me, at such a table you will be happy to give tea to your guests, who will admire your skills. In addition, by creating a coffee table with your own hands, you will literally fill your house warmth and put a piece of your soul into it. So it's definitely worth a try.

DIY coffee table in a marine style

Romantic idea. All year round, drinking your favorite drink at this table, you will remember the warm sea, the gentle surf and the moonlit path. " Nautical» a table is tenderness, sophistication and originality in the heart of your home.

How to do?

1. Take an old window frame and clean it of dust and dirt. If the former glass cracked, insert a new one, then get rid of the layer of the old paints and sand the surface. Next, you should remove the metal corners, which additionally fix the details. frames.

Ready! Enjoy your creation and give joy to your guests!

Table-suitcase for travel lovers

A very original solution for an old favorite suitcase that has seen other lands with you and that you don’t want to throw away because of the memories.

How to do?

To get started, go to the store where you will need to purchase furniture legs ( wooden or metal). If you want to make a mobile table - then you need to take the wheels. You will also need plywood, screws and a screwdriver.

Now we make markings on the bottom of the suitcase for future legs and drill holes. Since it will not work to attach the legs to the fabric, we put plywood inside the suitcase, make markings on it through the holes and also drill it. Now we attach the mount to the bottom of the suitcase and fasten the legs. Using hot glue, glue the felt inside the suitcase.

To give the table an original appearance, reminiscent of distant travels, you can decorate it with stickers made in the form of stamps, or decorate it at your discretion.

That's all - an unusual coffee table is ready! By the way, there are a lot of options for turning suitcases into tables: by choosing the legs to your liking, you can make a table in style retro or classical. You can not attach the legs at all if you have a massive suitcase - it will look truly incredible: such a table will bring a sense of adventure and adventure into the interior, the spirit of travel and unexplored distant countries.

Log table for nature lovers

We take wooden bars (in this case, birch) of the same height and width, only 32 pieces. You also need to take the base for the table, legs (4 pieces), putty to match the wood, a screwdriver and glue designed for wooden surfaces.

First you need to assemble the base for the table, then glue wooden bars around the perimeter, and sew up the middle with cardboard. Then we fasten the legs to the bottom. Next, we glue thin wooden dies to the inner surface - thanks to this, it will seem that the table is completely wooden. Now we take the putty and carefully close up all the voids, after which we overwrite until an absolutely flat surface is created. Voila! Now you are the owner of an extraordinary table that will become the highlight of your interior.

If you like the idea, you can create other tables according to this scheme, using, for example, branches instead of bars. To create such a table, you need to take a plywood box, painted black paint, the size of which is 40x40x60 cm (or any other size at your discretion).

To glue the frame, we take branches, from which we first remove the loosely holding bark (we do this with sandpaper). What is the procedure for gluing: first we glue the branches on the long side of the table, and then we select wooden dies and, as mosaic, lay them out on the ends. The thickness of the dies should be approximately 1 cm, they can be cut with a parquet or circular saw. And finally - install the glass, which will be the countertop. If desired, by screwing wheel supports to the table, it can be made mobile.

Using the same technology, you can create many more unusual pieces of furniture. You can lay out the branches horizontally and then you get such a wonderful table. Such furniture looks not only very original, but also incredibly stylish.

original pallet table

An idea that came to the mind of someone truly brilliant. It would seem that you can come up with pallets, which are probably lying around in every dacha? And you can make them a very convenient and functional element of the interior.

How to do?

To get started, collect all the tools you need for your idea: the pallet itself, a drill, clamps, a hammer, screws, a nail puller, glue designed for wood, wheels, soap, a primer, a screwdriver. In addition, take paint brushes, a petal brush head with abrasive bristles for a drill, varnish and a colorless primer.

First of all, you should take a drill with a nozzle designed for wood processing, and clean the surface of the boards from contamination with it. Now carefully disassemble the sanded pallet into parts. Lightly tap the rusty nails with a large hammer and carefully pull them out with a nail puller. Glue the broken pieces of boards with wood glue. At this stage you will need clamps. They need to carefully clamp the boards and wait until they dry out.

Now the parts prepared for the countertop need to be nailed and glued on the reverse side, then clamped with clamps and wait until they dry.

Then cover the table with a colorless primer, and then varnish. Next, on the back of the table, mark the places for the screws to attach the wheels. Drill holes for the fasteners. In order for the screws to easily enter the wood, grease them with soap. Using a ratchet, you can quickly and conveniently tighten hex screws.

Stylish, compact and quite functional table is ready!

Table from boxes

Another original idea captivates with its simplicity and surprise - well, who would have thought to build a table from boxes? But it has come, and now you yourself can create such an unusual piece of furniture at home. Surely you yourself will be delighted, and your guests will appreciate the originality of this idea.

How to do?

Take 4 wooden boxes, sandpaper, water-based varnish, roller and brush, dowels, 10 mm plywood sheet, PVA glue, 4 wheels and self-tapping screws.

First you need to sand the boxes and varnish them. Then, using a drill with an emphasis, make holes at the ends of the boxes. Using wood glue, you need to fix the dowels in the attachment points and connect the ends of the boxes to each other. Attach the wheels to the plywood sheet, and then attach the sheet to the boxes with self-tapping screws. The table is ready!

These extraordinary things can be created from quite ordinary materials. Having imagination and a desire for originality and comfort in your home, you can easily work wonders. Look around: maybe the old window frame has every chance to turn into an interesting element of the interior?

Or maybe a huge wooden reel from an industrial cable that can become an elegant piece of furniture?

Making a table is a great easy project for a beginner carpenter, but it can also be quite a challenge for more experienced carpenters. The simplest table consists of a tabletop, legs and a support frame. With a small amount of lumber for these elements, it will be possible to make a table that fully suits your needs.

Steps

Part 1

Check out the different table options to decide what kind of table you want to make. There are so many different types of desks out there, so take the time to choose your project carefully. Go online and look for photos of tables, paying attention to the style of each item. Also, possible ideas can be found in furniture catalogs and carpentry magazines.

• Base your choice on your own needs, such as what you will be using your new table for and how much space you have for it.
• Perhaps you need a large rustic dining table. Or maybe you want to make a small coffee table or an elegant bedside table.

1. Make a sketchy sketch of the table on paper. Use a pencil and ruler to draw your ideal table. Don't worry about the exact dimensions just yet. Just imagine how your finished table should look like. Give it the features you need, and only then think about the size.

   • When the approximate design of the table is ready, mark the appropriate dimensions on it with a pencil. The specific dimensions of lumber that you are going to use can be found in hardware stores.
   • The dimensions of the table will depend on its type. For example, a dining table is usually noticeably larger than a bedside table.

2. Calculate how much lumber you will need. Break the design of the table into its constituent basic elements. A simple table will have elements such as a tabletop, legs, and a support frame that connects them. If you plan to equip the table with additional elements, do not forget to take into account the materials for them.,

   • For example, try making a table with a top made of three boards 5 cm x 30 cm and a length of 150 cm, legs from four pieces of timber with a section of 10 cm x 10 cm and a length of 70 cm and a support frame from two boards with a section of 5 cm x 10 cm and a length of 75 cm, as well as two boards with a section of 5 cm x 10 cm and a length of 145 cm.
   • Purchase additional lumber for any additional pieces you want to add to your table. For example, you can add leg crossbars to increase the strength of the table or provide sliding tabletop elements.

3. To make a long-lasting table, choose an inexpensive but strong enough wood, such as pine. Pine is not a particularly hard wood, but it is easy to work with for beginners. From it, without much difficulty, you can make a table that will last for decades. Also, durable tables are often made from solid maple and cherry.

   • Consider other inexpensive wood options. For example, for the manufacture of tables, you can use construction-grade fir. Also, good furniture is obtained from poplar, but this wood is more difficult to tint with wood stain.
   • For outdoor furniture, opt for mahogany, cypress, or specially treated wood like pine that has been impregnated with preservatives under pressure.

4. Buy lumber and cut it into pieces. When you know exactly what you need, go to the hardware store and buy lumber. Many shops can even cut your materials to your size, so don't be too lazy to ask about this service. This will reduce the amount of work ahead a bit so that you can start assembling the table right away.

   • If you have a workbench, a vise, a circular saw or a regular hand saw, you can cut the wood yourself. Be sure to wear polycarbonate goggles and a respirator when operating the saw.

5. Mark the position of the support frame on the underside of the table top. The support frame is attached to the tabletop itself and the legs of the table, preventing these parts from moving. From the edges of the tabletop, measure about 2.5 cm deep. Then draw a line here with a pencil, which will indicate the place where the support frame is attached to the tabletop.

   • The presence of an indent of 2.5 cm will prevent such a situation when the support frame sticks out from under the countertop. In addition, this way you leave a little more space under the table for free positioning of the legs between its legs and, in general, improve the appearance of the table.
   • If you have not yet sawn the wood for the support frame, to calculate the dimensions of its parts, use the dimensions of the countertop (in length and width), taking into account the required indent from the edge and the section of the boards used.

6. Glue the base frame to the tabletop and clamp it with a vise. Set the details of the reference frame along the previously drawn lines. You will have two long pieces along the edges of the table and two short pieces across it (and inside the long pieces). Coat the inside of the pieces with an even layer of wood glue to secure them to the countertop. Fix the parts with a vise overnight so that they do not move.

   • You can also securely attach these parts to the countertop with self-tapping screws. In this case, use a deep hole drilling machine to pre-create basting holes for the screws.
   • Alternatively, you can first attach the legs to the table, and then connect them to the support frame using self-tapping screws. To make the legs stronger, you can additionally attach corner braces inside the support frame.

Part 3

1. Cut the legs of the required length from the timber. Mounting the legs is the most difficult operation in the manufacture of the table. If you attach the legs poorly, you will not end up with a solid and reliable table, but a flimsy, unstable design. Start by measuring the exact length of each leg and sawing off the corresponding pieces of timber with a saw.

   • Even if you sawed materials in the store, the parts may be slightly uneven. Check their size before attaching the legs to the table.
   • If you are making the legs yourself, first make a rough cut of the parts with a circular saw. Then fold the legs evenly, clamp them with a vise and, if necessary, trim to the same size.

2. Glue the legs to the corners of the base frame. The legs must be placed in the corners of the support frame, where its parts are joined to each other. Apply adhesive at the corners to the inside of the support frames and the underside of the tabletop. Then place the legs in the corners and secure with a vise.

   • You can wait for the glue to dry, but this is not necessary. Just keep the legs securely fastened with a vise so they don't move when you fix them with screws.

3. Drill basting holes in the base frame and table legs. The screws should be located in the center of each area where the leg meets the support frame. Drill holes from the side of the support frame towards the leg. Use a drill with a diameter of about 6 mm (but thinner than the self-tapping screws used) to make the first basting hole in the wood of the leg. Repeat the same for the other side of the base frame. You will have a total of 8 basting holes.

   • If you want to additionally fasten the legs with crossbars, the process will be somewhat more complicated. You will need a circular saw to make grooves on each leg a little less than half the thickness of the timber. On each leg, it will be necessary to make 2 grooves (one on each side, where the crossbars will be attached.

4. Attach the table legs to the base frame with self-tapping screws. Use two self-tapping screws with a diameter of about 7 mm for each leg. Screw the self-tapping screws through the support frame into the legs. Use a ratchet screwdriver for this.

   • Do not drill screws. They can go very tight and accidentally break off.
   • Make sure the legs are level and at right angles to the tabletop before you screw the screws into them.

5. Wait until the glue you used is completely dry and set. Read the manufacturer's instructions that came with the adhesive to find out how long you have to wait. If you leave the table alone overnight, you can be sure that the glue will dry for this. Usually the table can be turned to the correct position even before this time.

6. Turn the table over on its legs to check its stability. Turn the table over carefully. It can be quite heavy! Put it on the floor and try to shake it. If the table wobbles, it means that the legs are not perfect enough. It is possible that they are different lengths - in this case you will need to turn the table back and shorten the legs to the same length.

   • Although the legs can be cut with a circular saw or hacksaw, it is easy to make a mistake and shorten them too much. Instead, it's better to sand down some of the legs a bit with 80 grit sandpaper and then sand them down with 220 grit sandpaper.
   • Problems can also create the position of the legs themselves. Make sure they fit snugly against the countertop and support frame. If necessary, unscrew the screws and correct the position of the legs.

Part 4

1. Sand the table with 80 grit sandpaper. This is a coarse grit sandpaper, so it will make the wood look a bit rough, which is perfectly normal. Just think about how the finished table will look like! If you look closely at the wood, you will notice the direction of its fibers (lines). Sandpaper over the entire surface of the wood in the direction of its fibers (including the underside of the table and legs).

   • The stains are different. Oil-based compositions penetrate the wood well and create a fairly stable result. Water-soluble stains are easy to apply, but absorb unevenly into the wood. Gel stains are quite thick and create a strong toning effect.
   • To qualitatively process wood with a stain, process only one side of the table at a time.

2. When the first coat of stain dries, apply the second coat. Let the first coat of wood stain dry overnight before painting the wood again. It is likely that the first coat of stain will look dull and uneven. Cover the table with another layer of stain in the same way as before, then let it dry again. When you return to the table again, it should be ready.

   • Wipe off any excess stain before leaving the table to dry. This will achieve a uniform toning effect without too dark spots.

• Look on the Internet for patterns for making tables. A variety of detailed diagrams can be downloaded for free or purchased for a small fee.
• Create the table you want! For the table, you can use not only different types of wood, but also other materials. For example, table legs can be made of pipes, and the tabletop itself can be made of metal or glass.
• When assembling wooden furniture, be sure to drill basting holes, especially in wood 2.5 cm thick or less, so that it does not crack.
• Consider recycling lumber. This may require more effort in designing and rendering the table, but will often result in a more interesting end result.
• Fasten wood exclusively with self-tapping screws. Nails hold less well and can lead to cracking. In addition, the self-tapping screw will be easier to unscrew if you make a mistake.

Warnings

• Be careful when working with tools! A drill or other piece of equipment can be quite dangerous if mishandled.
• Be sure to use protective equipment when working with tools. Wear earplugs and goggles. Use a dust mask and do not wear long clothing that could get caught on tools.
• Many tinting products contain toxic substances that evaporate during use, so work with them in a respirator and in a well-ventilated area.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the cavities are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is prone to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class