A hole for a pipe or a faucet in a tile: how to cut it out with your own hands without the help of a master? Detailed instructions. How to make holes for pipes in different places What is the danger of poor-quality waterproofing and how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board

Drilling a brick wall includes the practical implementation of certain skills, as well as preparatory processes regarding the tool used and the surface we process, in fact, of a brick wall.

The quality of the final result depends on the type of drill used. The latter must have a strength that exceeds the strength of the brick used at the time of laying. Usually, drills with a diameter of 4, 6, 8 and 12 mm are used, respectively.

Tools and inventory

The list below is optimal in relation to the drilling process, or more precisely, the implementation of the task without interrupting the process itself.

So, the list consists of the following names:

impact drill;
dowel;
drill (winning / 4 - 12 mm);
curly screwdriver;
metal detector with a limited range;
cold water poured into any convenient container;
metal core;
eye protection element.

Tool preparation

The tool used in the process of drilling a brick wall is an impact drill. Such a drill must be powerful, which means it must have at least 600 watts and 2500 thousand revolutions per minute. The main feature that you should pay attention to is the possibility of smoothly adjusting the speed to the maximum.

If buying a drill is still an upcoming event, then the emphasis should be on drills with reverse rotation, as well as a self-tightening chuck. The latter eliminates the need for the constant use of a key to clamp the drills, although one is included in the kit.

The presence of a shock function is a prerequisite, since its absence will undoubtedly lead to:

overheating of the drill, and in particular surfacing from Pobedit (sudden wear of the cutting part);
normal drill pressure without engaging the cutting edge, since only the static load increases.

Preparatory work: positioning relative to the brick wall

Preparatory work in relation to the brick wall itself immediately before drilling is more introductory than "strategic" - design. From the point of view of the safe performance of such work, it is necessary to use a metal detector, which was indicated in the list above.

Its practical application immediately before drilling will eliminate the possibility of damage to wiring, internal heating systems, as well as various reinforcing components.

The marks of sockets, switches and lamps are the final stage of preparation. Taking into account the peculiarities of laying electrical wires from the above-mentioned “points” to the junction box, and this is usually a vertical laying, but not excluding the possibility of a diagonal one, we determine the place of drilling.

Despite the expected accuracy in choosing the drilling location, the first 10-20 mm deepening must be done with a screwdriver. The use of this will allow timely identification of communications recessed in the plaster, as well as avoiding their critical damage.

Direct drilling of a brick wall

The answer to the question of how to drill a brick wall with a drill can be obtained solely through independent practical experience. So let's get started!

The drilling process itself, regardless of the brick wall finish or its complete absence, begins with a mark. A hole in the wall is marked with a core. Why do you need a mark? After using the core, a slight recess remains, which securely fixes the cutting part of the drill at the initial stage of work.

The drill, throughout the entire drilling, must be kept level, otherwise the cutting element (winning drill) will break.

The human factor of influence on the drill and the static load on the drill are interrelated quantities. The first, namely "pressing" on the drill, should be smooth and soft, despite the need for significant loads in order to achieve the final result.

If significant static loads can be dealt with by regularly cooling the drill (returning the tungsten and cobalt alloy to its original state), then uniform drilling is the result of a uniform and smooth impact on the tool itself.

Using coolant (water) while drilling can damage the tool. The working cutting drill bit is lowered into the water only by 70% of the working length, that is, the one that remains after the latter is fixed in the cartridge.

The drilling process is monotonous and does not require special skills, but it requires considerable attention. So, for example, the latter will help to identify and, of course, overcome the burnt brick, if, of course, one got in the way of drilling. Burnt brick can be identified by the color of the dust. Usually, she is black.

The passage of such sections must be carried out at low speeds, which, in turn, must be combined with the activation of the shock function. Observing these two conditions, as well as making efforts in relation to the tool itself, it is necessary to carefully control the heating of the drill bit.

Drilling holes with a size of 12 mm requires a slightly different approach, namely the consistent use of all the above sizes of pobedit drills. To start drilling a brick wall for a hole of 12 mm, you must start with a 4 or 6 mm drill.

One of these drills reaches the planned depth, then the width of the hole is expanded with a 10 mm drill. After the depth in relation to the previous drill size has been reached, a similar action should be repeated with a 12 mm drill.

Taking into account this technology to achieve the required hole diameter, namely a diameter of 12 mm, the final result will be achieved much faster, and at the same time, bypassing unnecessary efforts. Regarding how to quickly and efficiently drill any brick wall with a drill in order to obtain a diameter of, for example, 30 mm, you should pay attention to diamond drilling.

Diamond drilling and drilling holes in concrete

Drilling holes in concrete is an integral part of construction work. Concrete openings may be required for water pipes, air conditioning outlets, and many other applications, including a vent.

Concrete is a rather heavy material, so it is difficult to make grooves in the required size. Very often, drilling holes of the desired diameter is difficult due to the large thickness of the walls, as well as the presence of steel reinforcement in them.

OUR PRICES

Previously, a strong puncher with a winning drill was used, which often resulted in wall cracking and overheating and destruction of the tool.

Today, this task is simply performed with the help of diamond drilling, for which special equipment and tooling are used.

Drilling holes in walls

Drill holes in concrete and prices depend on hole diameter, thickness and material to be drilled.

The main advantages of diamond drilling

Drilling diamond holes has several important advantages over using a rock drill. When the hammer is working, the destruction and removal of concrete occurs from the impact, which in most cases causes cracks. In addition, steel drills do not have sufficient hardness to work effectively with metal, and if steel rebars are created during the drilling process, the task becomes much more difficult.

Diamond drilling is based on the use of the unique physical properties of diamond with high hardness and excellent processing of any type of material: concrete, brick and steel. The holes for drilling diamonds occur perfectly, only due to the rotation of the cutting tool, so the risk of cracks in the wall is completely eliminated.

Drills with diamond tools, unlike hammer drills, do not cause much noise, which is very important if the work is carried out in an apartment building.

This method ensures high accuracy of the obtained holes, and the process takes much less time.

Drilling and boring equipment

Until a few decades ago, it was impossible to imagine the use of such high-tech technologies in the home, and now diamond technology makes it possible to smoothly and excessively pollute the concrete and brick ventilation hole of every depth and diameter using modern equipment.

It is equipped with special devices that allow the wetting and thus filtering of dust, which is not only dependent on the furniture, but can also significantly affect human health when it enters the lungs. The absence of vibration in the device ensures safe operation (vibration also has a detrimental effect on health) and has a positive effect on the service life of equipment and cutting tools.

Diamond drilling equipment has the following advantages:

compactness
reliability
No loud noises or vibrations
accuracy
Possibility of obtaining holes of any size and configuration at any required angles
Cleanliness at work

Trust Experts

When you need to drill large holes in concrete or wall, don't try to blow holes in concrete yourself with available tools and cheap Chinese hammer, because the impact will probably burn and diamond drilling and the price will probably be cheaper, than wasting money and time for this job and not done it.

Use the services of experts who have extensive experience and have all the necessary equipment to drill even the most difficult materials.

Our company is engaged in drilling holes of various types and sizes in brick and concrete walls.

We work quickly and efficiently with any complexity, while our prices for diamond drilling bricks are affordable for every client.

Detailed prices for all types of work are presented in the price list. If you have any questions, please contact our consultants and provide you with any information.

Dismantling requires considerable effort and is usually accompanied by an increase in noise, which often leads to conflicts with neighbors.

To remove unnecessary walls and partitions quickly and without unnecessary noise, it is best to entrust this part of the repair to professionals who have the necessary equipment. Our company will take care of all the problems associated with the dismantling of the soil, and at the same time, we guarantee the fast and high-quality work of all tasks related to the diamond cutting of concrete.

How to make holes in the wall
Technology for working with holes in the wall for pipes
Performing work of increased complexity
How to prepare holes in the floor

The installation of any communications in the house, whether it be water supply, sewage or gas pipes, involves their passage through walls or other ceilings. In this material, we will talk in detail about how to make a hole for a pipe in a wall, floor or other structural elements of a building, and what you need to pay attention to in the process of performing work.

First of all, we note that the method of how to drill a hole in the wall for a pipe will depend on specific conditions, for example, the type of partition, its external finish, as well as the location of the pipeline.

How to make holes in the wall

Before drilling a wall for a pipe, it is worth figuring out what standards must be observed in the process of work, especially if you are going to drill a load-bearing wall.

When cutting a hole for communications, make sure that such structural elements of the building as:

barrier and reinforcing gratings in the thickness of the wall;
ventilation ducts, if any, in the building;
electrical wiring lines.

At the same time, when arranging holes for pipes in the wall, make their diameter slightly larger than the cross section of the pipeline so that you can install a protective sleeve, and, possibly, insulate it with mineral wool or other non-combustible material.

Technology for working with holes in the wall for pipes

Please note that before drilling a brick wall for a pipe, it is important to make sure that there are no electrical wiring lines or reinforcing bars in the place of the intended hole.

How and how to drill a brick wall

This can be done with a simple metal detector.

Preliminary work includes the following steps:

markings are applied to the wall, indicating the exact location and diameter of the required hole, coinciding with the cross section of the pipe with the sleeve;
with a “crown” nozzle, they cut a hole in the wall;
in those places where the nozzle does not cope with very hard material, use a punch and a hammer to destroy the wall;
having passed a difficult section, they complete the work with a drill until the desired hole is obtained.

Since it is not always possible to break through the wall under the pipe with one type of crown, you will need to prepare several different nozzles in order to make holes in materials that are difficult to work with.

However, when working with wood, drywall or foam concrete, ordinary steel drills will be enough for you. Read also: "How to make wall chasing for pipes - theory and practice."

It is worth noting that steel drills are not suitable for working with concrete walls. In this case, you will need special pobedit drills that can cut a hole in materials up to 10-15 cm thick.

Performing work of increased complexity

Particular care should be taken when cutting communication holes when working with difficult materials, such as tiles.

Due to the sufficient fragility of this material, it cannot be drilled in shock mode.

If you need to make a hole of a sufficiently large size, you will need to know some tricks:

to work with such materials, special diamond crowns are needed, which are used for drilling at low speeds;
to drill a hole, you may need a device such as a ballerina;
in order to avoid slipping of a diamond nozzle or a ballerina with a smooth, hard-glazed surface, at the work site, it is advisable to first scrape off the glossy layer a little with a file, or stick masking tape so as not to damage the rest of the tile.

However, there is an alternative way to work with tiled floors.

Although it is cheaper, however, the risk of damaging the material is much higher. In this case, several holes are made around the circumference of the tile using a 3-4 mm drill. The areas between the holes begin to be carefully broken with a well-sharpened chisel and hammer, thus forming a hole.

To obtain the exact size of the hole, the edges of the tile are cut off with the same chisel.

How to prepare holes in the floor

The rules for preparing marked holes are determined by the type of base laid and the type of decorative coating laid on top.

Immediately before starting work, you first need to find out whether it will be possible to remove, by cutting or dismantling, part of the finish coating where the pipes will be laid.

If it is not possible to carry out this list of works, that is, it is impossible to make a hole (for example, in a tile), then they are done using one of the methods described above.

Finally

Cutting a large hole for a chimney is not so simple, but it is possible - it is enough to study the technology of work, as well as take into account all the nuances that may arise in this case.

You can more clearly understand the described process from the presented video.

As we know, when laying water and sewer pipes, it becomes necessary to conduct them through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements of building structures.

But before making holes for the pipe, you need to familiarize yourself with the known methods for implementing similar operations, which often affect not only the supporting structures of the building, but also their finish. In the specific conditions of laying the pipeline, a variety of methods can be used, which are supposed to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

The arrangement of openings in load-bearing walls and partitions requires compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building codes. When preparing them, you need to carefully monitor so that such important elements of building structures and communications are not damaged, which are:

reinforcing and barrage gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements of the ventilation system (if any).

In addition, the hole prepared in the wall or floor should provide the possibility of placing a special protective sleeve in it, which, if necessary, can be insulated with any non-combustible material (mineral wool, for example).

Non-specialized work order

Before cutting a hole in the wall, it is recommended to examine its surface with a simple metal detector for the presence of electrical wiring or reinforcement bars in this place.

As for the main working tool, for the purposes indicated by us, in most cases, a hammer drill is used, or a rather remarkable impact drill with a “crown” type nozzle, thanks to which it is possible to make holes of different diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

first, in the right place on the wall, a circle is marked, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
after that, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
when the nozzle “slips”, a punch and a hammer will be required, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
then it will be possible to continue working until a finished hole is obtained.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, you will need to prepare a set of crowns of different sizes. For drilling partitions made of drywall, foam concrete, and wooden walls, it is possible to use simple steel drills.

Advice! In the event that you need to drill a hole in concrete, you will need a set of special Pobedite drills. With their help, you can work with materials with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Working with complex coatings

Advice! The main problem when working with tiled surfaces (in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens) is the fragility of the facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes of enormous diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

use a special diamond "crown" as a nozzle, when using which the drill must work in low speed mode;
use a special device called a ballerina;
in order to exclude the possibility of slipping of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina with a smooth surface of the tile covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is pre-scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in a tile, a more simple and inexpensive, but more risky method is often used, which is as follows. First, using a simple drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, a pair of holes is drilled in the marked circle. After that, the gaps between these holes are cautiously destroyed and removed with a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole increase to a predetermined size.

Preparation of holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the marked holes depends both on the type of the sexual base itself, and on the type of decorative coating laid on top of it.

Before starting work, first of all, you should decide whether it is possible to remove it by cutting out or disassembling a section of the decorative coating at the places where pipes are laid. If it is not feasible to perform these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in a tile, for example), as well as in the floor base itself, is made using the previously described methods.

How to make holes in the wall

Before drilling a wall for a pipe, it is worth figuring out what standards must be observed in the process of work, especially if you are going to drill a load-bearing wall.

When cutting a hole for communications, make sure that such structural elements of the building as:

barrier and reinforcing gratings in the thickness of the wall;
ventilation ducts, if any, in the building;
electrical wiring lines.

Technology for working with holes in the wall for pipes

Please note that before drilling a brick wall for a pipe, it is important to make sure that there are no electrical wiring lines or reinforcing bars in the place of the intended hole. This can be done with a simple metal detector.

Preliminary work includes the following steps:

markings are applied to the wall, indicating the exact location and diameter of the required hole, coinciding with the cross section of the pipe with the sleeve;
with a “crown” nozzle, they cut a hole in the wall;
in those places where the nozzle does not cope with very hard material, use a punch and a hammer to destroy the wall;
having passed a difficult section, they complete the work with a drill until the desired hole is obtained.

It is worth noting that steel drills are not suitable for working with concrete walls. In this case, you will need special pobedit drills that can cut a hole in materials up to 10-15 cm thick.

Performing work of increased complexity

Particular care should be taken when cutting communication holes when working with difficult materials, such as tiles. Due to the sufficient fragility of this material, it cannot be drilled in shock mode.

If you need to make a hole of a sufficiently large size, you will need to know some tricks:

to work with such materials, special diamond crowns are needed, which are used for drilling at low speeds;
to drill a hole, you may need a device such as a ballerina;
in order to avoid slipping of a diamond nozzle or a ballerina with a smooth, hard-glazed surface, at the work site, it is advisable to first scrape off the glossy layer a little with a file, or stick masking tape so as not to damage the rest of the tile.

However, there is an alternative way to work with tiled floors. Although it is cheaper, however, the risk of damaging the material is much higher. In this case, several holes are made around the circumference of the tile using a 3-4 mm drill. The areas between the holes begin to be carefully broken with a well-sharpened chisel and hammer, thus forming a hole. To obtain the exact size of the hole, the edges of the tile are cut off with the same chisel.

How to prepare holes in the floor

The rules for preparing marked holes are determined by the type of base laid and the type of decorative coating laid on top.

Immediately before starting work, you first need to find out whether it will be possible to remove, by cutting or dismantling, part of the finish coating where the pipes will be laid. If it is not possible to carry out this list of works, that is, it is impossible to make a hole (for example, in a tile), then they are done using one of the methods described above.

Finally

Cutting a large hole for a chimney is not so simple, but it is possible - it is enough to study the technology of work, as well as take into account all the nuances that may arise in this case. You can more clearly understand the described process from the presented video.

There is a need for their wiring through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements of building structures.

But before making holes for the pipe, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the known methods for implementing such operations, which often affect not only the supporting structures of the building, but also their decoration. In the specific conditions of laying a pipeline, a variety of methods can be used, which are supposed to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

The arrangement of openings in load-bearing walls and partitions requires compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building codes. When preparing them, it is necessary to carefully monitor that such critical elements of building structures and communications are not damaged, which are:

reinforcing and barrage gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements of the ventilation system (if any).

General order of work

As for the main working tool, for the purposes indicated by us, a hammer drill is usually used, or a fairly powerful impact drill with a “crown” type nozzle, with which you can make holes of various diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

first, a circle is marked in the right place on the wall, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
then, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
when the nozzle “slips”, a punch and a hammer will be required, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
after that, it will be possible to continue working until the finished hole is obtained.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, it will be necessary to prepare a set of crowns of various sizes. For drilling partitions made of drywall, foam concrete, as well as wooden walls, you can use ordinary steel drills.

Note! In the event that it is necessary to drill a hole in concrete, a set of special pobedit drills will be required. With their help, you can work with materials with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Working with complex coatings

Note! The main problem when working with surfaces finished with tiles (in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens) is the fragility of the facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes of large diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

use a special diamond "crown" as a nozzle, when using which the drill should work in low speed mode;
use a special device called a ballerina;
in order to exclude the possibility of slipping of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina from the surface of the tile, which is smooth and covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is preliminarily scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in a tile, a simpler and cheaper, but more risky method is often used, which consists in the following. First, using a conventional drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, several holes are drilled inside the marked circle. Then the gaps between these holes are carefully destroyed and removed with a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole expand to a predetermined size.

Preparation of holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the marked holes depends both on the type of the sexual base itself, and on the type of decorative coating laid on top of it.

Before starting work, first of all, you should decide whether it can be removed by cutting or disassembling a section of the decorative coating in the places where pipes are laid. If it is impossible to perform these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in a tile, for example), as well as in the floor base itself, is made using the methods already described earlier.

Video

Cutting a large hole for a chimney is difficult at once. The author of the video shows how to do this by drilling small holes in a circle. Further, this will help to cut a hole of the desired diameter with a crown:

The smoke exhaust structure is an element that is characterized by an increased fire hazard, therefore, solving the problem of how to make a hole in the roof for a pipe should be approached responsibly. It is also important to protect the roof from moisture penetration, otherwise its service life will be significantly reduced.

Corrugated roofs deservedly enjoy the trust of the owners of private houses, because they have:

a light weight;
long operating period;
appearance, reminiscent of the relief of ceramic tiles.

Decking is thin, durable and corrosion-resistant metal sheets that are coated with paint and pressed into the desired shape. After installing stoves or heating boilers, it is necessary to make a passage for the chimney through the roof structure.

Every homeowner must understand how to get the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board. Even if this work is done by professionals, it will not hurt to control the result.

Types of chimney structures

The chimney pipe is used to remove smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere. It is a hollow cylinder.

To organize this process, stove-makers build:

brick chimneys. The smoke exhaust system is created from heat-resistant bricks, which are produced using a special technology specifically for arranging furnaces. The pipe in this case has a section of a rectangular or square shape. This method of getting rid of smoke is expensive, but it is more durable and safer. Its main disadvantage is the porous inner surface - for this reason, soot and dust are deposited on it in large quantities. If the pipe is not cleaned regularly, soot layers can completely or partially clog it, the traction force will decrease, and the risk of fire will increase. The process of how to bring the chimney through the roof from the corrugated board is complicated and therefore it is better not to do this work with your own hands - it should be done by experienced stove-makers.
Metal chimney systems. To assemble the structure of the required configuration, you need to purchase stainless steel pipes with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. Then insert the segments one into the other - you will need straight tubular products, clamps and bends. Due to the slippery inner surface, soot cannot accumulate, which means that smoke can move freely up outside the house. The disadvantage of this method is that the metal does not retain heat well enough compared to the brick, as a result of which condensation collects on it, since there is a temperature difference between the pipe and the air outside. The metal chimney structure can be easily brought to the roof, because it consists of individual elements.

Chimney outlet - how to cut a hole

Before cutting a hole for a pipe in a profiled sheet, you should choose a convenient place for this. The decisive factor here is the location of the furnace unit.

According to professionals, the chimney should be placed strictly vertically, taking into account some of the nuances:

It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, which means closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is 50-80 centimeters.
Before making a hole for the pipe in the corrugated board, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To get around them, bends are used, with the help of which they set a turn of 45 or 90 degrees.
The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersections of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a quality connection will not work.
It will be possible to achieve the required level of thrust if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
To make sure that the exit point is determined correctly, it is circled on the roof with a marker and the temperature in it is checked at the end of the day. The pipe must be in the cold zone at all times.

Preparatory measures for the removal of the chimney through the roof

There is the following technology, how to make a hole in a profiled sheet for a pipe:

First, a permanent marker marks the place of its removal to the roof.
The size of the section of the chimney elements is selected taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating unit. The thicker and higher the pipe, the easier the smoke comes out of the oven. The main thing is that when connecting between the elements there is no gap.
A hole is cut out with a grinder with a thin blade for metal work, stepping back a few centimeters from the drawn line. The corrugated board must be cut carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is without jags.
Short cuts are made in the corners of the holes so that the edges of the corrugated board are bent up.
A similar passage is made in the ceiling. Then a metal box is installed, designed to connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney is laid through the hole inside the box.
Hydro and vapor barrier material, as well as insulation, are removed from the outlet cut out in the roof.

For cold areas, where the thickness of the heat-insulating material is more than 15 centimeters, it is necessary to use sandwich pipes with two layers of metal and a layer of insulation between them.

How to remove a pipe on a roof from corrugated board

When the preparation for how to bring the chimney through the corrugated board is completed, it should be properly connected and the chimney put into operation, for which:

It is necessary to insert the pipe through the hole in the box and direct it towards the roof, and fix the edges of the waterproofing material with adhesive tape on the surface of the chimney.
Expanded clay is densely poured into the box or mineral wool is used.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe to protect the outlet from water seepage. To improve waterproofing, glue the sealant to the corrugated board using a fire-resistant sealant.
The smoke exhaust structure is extended in segments to the required height, while the joints are tightened with galvanized steel clamps.
An external apron is installed, having the color of the roofing, which will close the box and rubber seal.

When bringing the chimney to the roof, it must be remembered that neglect of such work can result in a fire and material losses.

What is the danger of poor-quality waterproofing and how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board

The chimney is fire hazard element, therefore, it is important to responsibly approach the processes of its withdrawal to the roof from corrugated board and isolation from the contents of the roofing pie.

Important is also protection of the pipe against moisture penetration, which can significantly reduce the life of the roof.

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to wrap a pipe on a roof with corrugated board and analyze waterproofing issues.

Varieties

Elements differ from each other according to the material of manufacture:

Brick chimneys. This is the classic version differs in reliability and undemanding to finishing. For the production of products used red brick. For laying bricks, it is necessary to use a special refractory mortar. Lime mortar works well.
Steel chimneys. This is a budget option, which is characterized by ease of installation, low weight and a large selection of section sizes. But steel pipes burn out quickly, their safe service life is relatively low.
Sandwiches. These chimneys consist of several metal pipes of different sizes placed inside each other. Between them are layers of thermal insulation. Sandwiches retain the advantages of simple steel chimneys, but are devoid of their disadvantages. The main disadvantages of such structures are the high price and the possibility of depressurization during sudden temperature changes, which can lead the pipe to complete disrepair.
Modular chimneys. Like sandwiches, these chimneys are multi-layered. They consist of layers of metal and refractory clay (chamotte). Between them is a layer of basalt insulation. The pipe body is made of lightweight concrete. If the clay layer is inside, then the chimneys are called fireclay, if there is a metal pipe inside, then the design is called modular.

There are complex design options for pipes, the production and installation of which cost a lot of money. They are rarely used in construction. This includes glass structures.

Location selection

The most optimal place for the outlet of the pipe is the space near the roof ridge, located at a distance of 50-80 from its highest point. This is due to a number of considerations:

The closer to the roof overhang the pipe is, the greater the snow load falls on it. and also increases the amount of flowing water.
The higher the pipe is, the smaller part of it will be located in the cold air zone. This will reduce the amount of condensation that forms., will slow down the accumulation of soot and dust.

It is possible to install the pipe directly along the top line of the ridge. This will eliminate the possibility of creating snow pockets, minimizing condensation and leakage. But such a design violates the integrity of the ridge run.

Choosing a place for a pipe

Installation of a pipe in areas close to the edge of the slopes is not excluded. But then it will require large costs for its sealing.

How to bring a pipe through a roof from corrugated board

In a sheet of corrugated board that will surround the chimney, outlined contours with length and width parameters corresponding to the dimensions of the chimney. Then, using a grinder, you need to cut a hole with a slight indent from the contours.

Also holes are made in the elements of the roofing pie, when calculating their width, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the pipe itself, but also the dimensions of the protective box that will separate the chimney from the contents of the cake. The crate at the junction must be solid.
How to make a pipe pass through a corrugated roof? The pipe must be tightly surrounded by outer and inner aprons.. The inner apron is located under the sheets of corrugated board (with the exception of the part that fits the pipe walls), it is attached to the crate. A stainless steel groove extends from it, which should go around the chimney on all sides and go directly to the ends of the slopes to the cornice strip. Precipitation and condensate will flow down it.
If the pipe is made of brick, then the edges of the apron adjacent to it must be bent at the ends and brought into the strobes. Strobs are small holes in bricks (but not in the seams between them), which are made with a grinder.

Under the bottom apron there should be a layer of waterproofing. Waterproofing a pipe on a corrugated roof is carried out in the following order:

The outer apron is installed on a sheet of corrugated board and is also attached to the crate. For the most part, it performs a decorative function, making the junction of the chimney and the roof smoother, but this element also provides additional protection.
Aprons can be made independently from a solid zinc sheet, or you can purchase a set of ready-made flashing strips. The first option is more complicated, since it requires an independent cut and bending of the edges of the hole in the sheet. But the second option involves additional spending money.

Sectional Mounting Diagram

The parts of the apron adjacent to the chimney must be sealed with sealant.

It is more difficult to cut holes in the corrugated board and in the roofing cake for pipes with a circular cross section than under rectangular chimneys, but their insulation can be done by simple methods. For this Master Flash nozzles are used. These are rubber or silicone products in the form of a stepped pyramid with a round cross section. They tightly fit the chimney and are securely attached to the corrugated sheet.

The base of the nozzle is made of aluminium. The reverse side of the product has a corrugated surface, which increases its tightness.

Installation of a round pipe

So, how to sheathe a pipe on the roof with corrugated board if it is round? Before installing the nozzle, it is necessary to cut off such a number of pyramid rings as which will provide a hole diameter 20% smaller than the pipe diameter. Then the Master Flush is pulled down the pipe from top to bottom. The base is glued to the corrugated sheet with silicone and attached to it with screws. The place where the rings of the product fit to the pipe is sealed with silicone.

You can also seal round pipes with self-adhesive lead tapes.

Elimination of leaks

The main reason for the leakage of the joints of the pipe and the roof is a violation of the tightness of the aprons. To solve this problem, it is necessary to build an additional outer apron from bitumen tape.

Before its installation, the roof should be cleaned of dust with a metal brush.

The tape is laid in several layers along the bottom of the pipe and along the sheet of corrugated board adjacent to it (or along the apron). Then it must be heated with a burner and pressed down with a wooden plank.

Such a gasket can last for several years.

Serious leaks can only be repaired by replacing the apron.

Moisture can also get under the roof due to excessive condensate production by the pipe. To reduce its amount, an umbrella can be built on the chimney. Umbrellas are made from metals such as copper, galvanized and stainless steel. The cap not only reduces the amount of condensation, but also extinguishes the sparks coming out of the chimney, increasing the fire safety of the structure.

If the chimney is close to the edges of the slopes, then leaks can occur due to the accumulation of a large amount of snow masses. To eliminate this problem, the apron is complemented by a triangular convex design (with mandatory sealing), which will separate the snow and simplify its removal.

Useful video

The passage of the chimney through the corrugated roof - video instruction:

Conclusion

The main difficulty that arises when bringing the chimney to the roof is the installation of waterproofing elements at the joints of structures in order to avoid leaks, and problems can also arise when passing the pipe through the roofing pie. But with the right work, these difficulties will be overcome.

The passage of the pipe through the roof of corrugated board and metal tiles

Corrugated roofs have earned the trust of private developers due to their light weight, long service life and appearance that mimics the relief of traditional ceramic tiles. Sheets of corrugated board are a thin, durable, corrosion-resistant metal, which is covered with a layer of paint and, using pressing, gives the surface the desired shape. To heat the house, wood-burning stoves, gas boilers, solid fuel stoves are installed in it. Since the installation of such equipment is a technically complex matter, it is trusted by professionals. However, to ensure the passage of the pipe through the metal tile and corrugated board is the task of the homeowner.

Types of chimneys

The flue pipe is a hollow cylinder through which smoke and combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere. The stove-makers use the following options for organizing this process:

Choice of output location

Choosing a convenient place for making a hole in the roof from corrugated board for a chimney pipe is half the battle. Naturally, the decisive factor in this matter is the location of the furnace. Professional stove-makers recommend placing the chimney strictly vertically, but there are more subtle nuances:

It is best to place the chimney outlet at the highest point of the roof, that is, closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from the ridge to the pipe is 50-80 cm.
It is desirable that the hole in the corrugated roof for the pipe does not fall on the elements of the truss system. To get around them, they use bends, corner sections of the chimney. They can be used to set the rotation to 90 or 45 degrees.
The length of the chimney pipe segments is calculated in such a way that the joints are above or below the places where the ceilings and corrugated roofs pass. Otherwise, it will be problematic to make a quality connection.
To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney system should be 1-1.5 more than the roof ridge. If the pipe is too high, the flow of smoke will have time to cool down while passing through it, which leads to condensation.

To check whether you have correctly determined the exit point of the future chimney, draw a mark on the corrugated roof with a marker and check its temperature at the end of the day - the pipe should be located in the "cold zone", that is, remain in the shade for almost all day.

Preparatory stage of work

So that during the installation of the pipe there are no difficulties, you need to prepare the place of work and tools in advance. A hole from corrugated board is cut out according to the following technology:

After determining the configuration of the chimney, they outline where the exit to the roof will be located. Recall that it is better to place the pipe vertically.
The size of the section of the chimney pipes is selected based on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heater. The thicker and higher the pipe, the better the smoke is removed from the furnace. It is important that all segments are of the same section and fit each other, inserted without a gap.
On the corrugated roof, outline the pipe outline with a permanent marker.
A grinder with a thin wild metal cuts a hole, stepping back from the intended line a couple of centimeters inward. Work with corrugated board should be done carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is even, without notches that can injure you during the pipe removal process.
In the corners of the hole, short cuts should be made to bend the edges of the corrugated board up.
In the ceiling they cut out the same weigh. Mount a metal box that will connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney will pass through the hole inside the box, the distance between their walls must be at least 15 cm.

For the northern regions, in which the insulation layer exceeds 150 mm, sandwich pipes are recommended, which consist of two layers of metal and heat-insulating material between them.

Exit the chimney to the roof

All the preparatory work has been done, it remains only to connect the pipe correctly and put the chimney into operation. To bring the chimney to the roof, you must:

Insert the chimney through the hole in the box and direct it to the roof. Using adhesive tape, the edges of the waterproofing film and the vapor barrier membrane are securely fixed to the surface of the chimney.
Fill the box tightly with expanded clay or lay mineral wool. These types of insulation are not subject to fire, therefore they insulate the pipe and protect against sudden ignition of the wooden elements of the truss system and the crate.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe, which protects against moisture infiltration at the outlet. To provide better waterproofing, the sealant is glued to the corrugated board with a fire-resistant sealant.

Do not be afraid of overheating of the waterproofing film from the surface of the chimney; mineral wool or expanded clay embedded in the box reliably protects it from fire.

Even a novice craftsman can carry out the removal of a chimney to the roof, the main thing is not to forget that a negligent attitude to this issue can lead to a fire and the loss of your property.

Video instruction

The output of the chimney pipe through the roof of the metal tile

When designing the heating of a country house, you need to think about how the pipe passes through the roof. For her, choose a place near the ridge, in this case, the risk of condensation is reduced.

The option of passing the chimney "through the ridge" is considered the simplest. In winter, snow does not accumulate on the ridge. Another way to get through is a pipe made of working bricks or concrete and installed on a roof slope, not far from the ridge.

To bring the pipe through the roof from the metal tile, first you need to: mark the place of passage, cut a hole in the roof and install adjoining strips or a passage element (for a round pipe). Let's take a closer look at each stage of the work.

deposit photos

Measurements and calculations

On a roof with a ridge, the height is calculated depending on the interval between the pipe and the ridge:

At an interval of 1.5 meters, the height of the pipe should be 0.5 meters higher than the roof ridge.
With an interval of 1.5 to 3 meters, the ridge and pipe should be at the same level.
If the interval between the pipe and the ridge is more than 3 meters, then the length of the pipe above the roof can be determined on the basis of a line that runs at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge run to the horizon.

Thermal insulation materials, waterproofing and vapor barrier should be at a distance of 15 cm from a brick or concrete chimney, if a ceramic product acts as a pipe, then the allowable distance is 25 cm.

How to cut a hole

After the location of the pipe is determined, it is necessary to mark up and prepare a hole in the metal tile.

The coating layer, together with the heat and waterproofing, can be cut using a sharp knife or large scissors. There are two ways to make a hole in a metal tile:

The hole can be made during installation or after the flooring has been laid. To prepare a round and rectangular hole, metal shears, a jigsaw or nibblers are used.
To prepare a hole with a circular cross section, you need to draw a circle with several intersecting diameters in the center. After that, using scissors for metal, you need to make cuts starting from the center of the markup to the edges, then bend the resulting triangles inward.

Fire safety

To ensure fire safety when a pipe passes through a metal roof, it is necessary to equip a special box in which non-combustible material, such as mineral wool, must be poured.

In addition, it is recommended to thicken the walls of the chimney up to 35-40 cm. If a brick pipe is used for passing, then the thickening of the walls will reduce the heating of the surrounding materials to an acceptable 40-50 degrees.

Methods for withdrawing a pipe through a roof covered with metal tiles

The passage node is selected according to the shape and size of the chimney. The most popular options for passing the roof are:

Square or rectangular outlet.
Round exit.

Each type has its own characteristics and sequence of installation.

How to make a rectangular chimney outlet

Rectangular passage is carried out in two stages:

Installation of the inner apron before laying the coating.
Installation of the outer element, after laying the coating.

The installation process can be divided into the following points:

Determining the location of the top edge of the inner junction bar. To do this, it is applied to the wall of the pipe.
Along the mark line, with the help of a grinder, you need to make a groove, about 150 mm deep, while the strobe should be with a slight upward slope. The final stage is its cleaning, which is recommended to be carried out with water.
The junction bar must first be installed on the side of the chimney from the cornice, and then the other three bars are installed on the side and top.
The planks are laid with an overlap of about 150 mm, and the edges are filled with silicone sealant. As fastening it is recommended to use roofing screws.
To form a "tie" through which water from precipitation will pass, a sheet of metal is installed under the bottom. Usually it is installed so that water immediately enters the drainage system.
To remove the waterproofing, it is raised to the wall of the chimney by 5 cm, and fixed in this position with a special adhesive tape. This will provide additional reliability at the junction.
Now proceed to the equipment of the lower apron, which serves more for a decorative purpose. It is installed in the same way, only to fix the outer strips, the walls of the chimney do not need to be ditched. In fact, the bottom apron is sandwiched between the sheets of metal, which excludes the penetration of moisture under the roof.

deposit photos

How to exit a round chimney

A round passage is a little more difficult to install, so a through passage was developed to facilitate the work. It consists of a flat steel base and an elastic cap. This allows you to hermetically connect all the elements of the passage.

For the production of passage elements, EPDM rubber or silicone is used, which have high thermal stability. Pass-through elements made of silicone are recommended for use in those places where there are temperature fluctuations from -75°С to +260°С, elements made of EPDM can withstand temperature fluctuations from -55°С to +135°С.

The installation of the passage element consists of the following items:

On the coating of metal tiles, you need to cut a hole based on the diameter of the pipe.
Having moistened the transition element with liquid soap, it is put on the pipe.
The sealing element, with the help of light pressure, repeats the bends of the roofing.
To fasten the element, you can use self-tapping screws, but before that, a sealant is applied under the transition element. The screws must be spaced 35 cm apart.

For greater efficiency, experienced roofers advise choosing a smaller diameter of the ring on the passage element relative to the pipe section, by about 20%, and at the same level it needs to be cut.

The choice of sealant for chimneys

There are two types of sealant for installing chimneys:

It is customary to use heat-resistant compounds for insulating the outer surfaces of stoves and fireplaces, as well as for insulating joints between brick pipes and roofing. It can also be used when installing sandwich pipes, but not from metal.

Many sealants are based on silicone, with the addition of iron oxide, due to which, such a sealant is able to withstand constant temperatures from 250 to 350 degrees. Heat resistant sealants can be acidic or neutral.

Heat-resistant compounds are used in cases where the temperature of constant heating ranges from 1200-1300 degrees, and short-term reaches 1600 degrees. Such a sealant is used to seal cracks in the furnace furnace, where there is an open fire and to seal chimneys on the roof. For cases with open fire, you need to choose refractory compounds.

The basis of heat-resistant pastes contains silicate. During polymerization, it transforms into an organosilicon compound with exceptional strength and 100% water resistance.

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