A simple greenhouse with your own hands. How to make a greenhouse. Collapsible and stationary products

Russia has vast territories that are located in different climatic zones. Climatic conditions in most of the country do not allow harvesting throughout the year.

The natural wisdom and ingenuity of the Russian people made it possible to significantly increase the vegetation period of plants. Productively using greenhouses of various shapes and designs, amateur gardeners got the opportunity to get an early and late harvest.

A more competent approach to the construction of a greenhouse will allow you to harvest throughout the year. In this article we will try to tell you how to make a greenhouse with your own hands.

Design features

A self-made greenhouse embodied in reality occupies an important place on the summer resident's site. A self-made greenhouse does not mean that in terms of its functionality it will be less effective.

Photos and drawings of greenhouses for making your own hands can be viewed and studied on thematic sites. The design of the greenhouse, its shape, will depend on the purpose of the object.

The most popular materials for the construction of greenhouses are fiberglass or metal galvanized profile pipe, which performs the supporting role of the structure. Glass, polyethylene film, polycarbonate can be used as a coating.

The appearance of the greenhouse

Usually a greenhouse is designed for a botanical plant species. Factors such as the light transmission capacity of the coating material and maintaining the required indoor temperature are taken into account.

The shape of the greenhouse are:

with one slope. It can be a winter garden or a greenhouse. A passage is provided along the entire length, usually adjacent to the southern wall of the house;
with two slopes. This is the most common form throughout Russia. Assumes a variety of options for internal arrangement;
in the form of a drop. Sufficiently stable design, but difficult to install;
domed. It has a very spectacular appearance with a modest consumption of materials;
polygonal shape. They look great on the garden plot of the cottage, they easily tolerate strong winds.

Greenhouse classification

Objects that maintain an artificial climate inside themselves can be classified as collapsible and stationary greenhouses. Folding greenhouses quickly enough occupied their niche in the market of gardeners.

The ultralight frame has unified parts that can be assembled and disassembled by a person without special training. The price of such a kit will not put serious pressure on the family budget.

The coating of this design is usually a special polyethylene film. With careful handling, it can be used for several years.

A kind of classic for summer residents is the stationary design of the greenhouse. In this case, the steel load-bearing frame rests on the foundation structure. Oven windows are arranged for ventilation, at regular intervals of wall glazing sections.

Greenhouses are also divided according to the type of characteristic features, depending on the author of the project. The design of the greenhouse, the author of which is Kurdyumov, provides for watering the plants with a drip method. Also, greenhouses have the ability to maintain the desired range of temperature and humidity.

The design of the greenhouse, authored by Mitlider, is a solid structure made of natural wood. As a rule, such greenhouses are installed in the direction of the sun. This ensures the best illumination of plants.

Preparatory work

In order to make the simplest greenhouse manually, it is necessary to carry out the necessary preparatory measures.

When choosing a place for a greenhouse, one should be guided by the fact that there is no interference with direct sunlight. The site should be as flat as possible, it is desirable to have protection from the effects of strong winds.

It should be noted that you will need water for irrigation and electricity for lighting. Therefore, the greenhouse should be located on the site in an acceptable proximity to these sources.

Choosing the material for the frame of the greenhouse

Considering the choice of material for the supporting structure of the greenhouse, it should be noted that each of them is good in its own way. The following materials are considered the most popular today:

Wood. Wooden structures are easy to manufacture; professional skills of the performer are not required. Antiseptic treatment of the structure is required.

Aluminum. The low specific gravity of the metal and sufficient strength give the frame an aesthetic appearance, stability and durability. The high price of the profile is the main obstacle to wide application.

Plastic. The metal-plastic profile, due to its low specific gravity, sufficient strength, has gained popularity among summer residents. The relatively low price and high performance have become the hallmark of this material.

Steel. Galvanized steel profiles are quite popular in the construction of greenhouses. Installation of a frame from a profiled galvanized pipe does not require special training and equipment. Under such a frame, it is necessary to arrange a strip foundation.

Installation of the supporting frame of the greenhouse and coating

The reliable design of the frame will be the key to protecting plants from the sultry rays of the sun and heavy rains.

After the concrete in the foundation has gained the necessary strength, you can prepare the frame elements for assembly. The elements of the lower belt and rack are bolted together.

The elements of the upper belt and roof slopes are sequentially connected into a spatial structure with rigid connections. The entrance door is located on the leeward south side.

To ensure effective vortex ventilation, it follows by placing opening windows in the roof structure.

When covering the greenhouse with your own hands from polycarbonate, the sheets are attached to the frame with anodized steel screws. A rubber seal is laid between the polycarbonate sheet and the frame element.

Glass coating is the most traditional material. However, high operating costs pushed it into the market of greenhouse materials.

The film covering differs in the low price and simplicity in work. It should be noted the low durability of this material.

Plumbing, electricity, greenhouse heating

After the frame of the greenhouse, covering, ventilation is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the electrical network, heating and water supply.

Given that the humidity in the greenhouse will be high, all electrical work must be carried out taking into account the requirements of the relevant norms and rules for performing special work.

Stove heating, electric energy, gas can be considered as a source of heat for the room. The issue of efficiency will depend on the regional location of the facility.

For productive work, it is desirable to bring water into the greenhouse. For this, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 1.5 inches is usually used. The riser is located at the entrance to the room.

DIY greenhouse photo

Polycarbonate greenhouses in the distribution network are widely represented - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do it themselves. Because a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse is many times stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arched supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost along the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight racks emerge from the ground / from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this device, the roof is rounded, the walls are straight. Even along the walls you can work without problems, straightening up to your full height.

But the rounded roof of the greenhouse has several disadvantages. The first - it is more difficult in it than in a straight line to make vents for ventilation. You can solve the problem if you make transoms in the walls, and not in the roof. The second minus of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow comes off it worse than from flat inclined surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced farms, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make the rounded part of the roof from two arcs welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the skate can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve the snow removal and protect the joint from leaks.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse: frame material

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and a wooden beam are suitable. Also use galvanized profiles for drywall.

Wood

The beam is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a single-pitched or double-pitched roof, since it is difficult and time-consuming to bend wood arcs. The cross section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and the snow / wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50 * 50 mm. Such supports are placed in the Middle Strip. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from a bar of 100 * 100 mm.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy a bar, but make a composite one - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better tolerate loads, less prone to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option is a larger one.

If a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse is being built on a wooden frame, all boards / timber must be treated / impregnated with antiseptics, and those that are intended for the street. Treat the ends that are buried in the ground with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, wood, firstly, will quickly collapse, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting racks to the strapping (bottom bar), for greater rigidity and reliability, use steel reinforced mounting angles. They are available at hardware stores. To increase the bearing capacity of the roof, additional jumpers are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most of the polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made of profiled pipes. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s easy to do everything yourself - cooking a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with the help it is easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross section again depends on the size and environmental conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20 * 40 mm. But options are also possible. For that material, another parameter such as wall thickness is also important. It is desirable that the metal was 2-3 mm. Such a frame endures significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, therefore greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gable or shed roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the thickness of the metal is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a profile frame is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snowy winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not needed. And the minus is not the biggest bearing capacity.

One of the frames

The technology is used standard - as for the construction of walls and partitions made of drywall. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make the racks double - splicing two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. For greater rigidity of the frame, make slopes, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is desirable to make the roof pitched, and not rounded, to strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether or not you need a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse, there is only one answer - you need it. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation should “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most solid option. If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below the freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or just from a bar is suitable.

Concrete-brick - one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of costs, complexity and duration. Work is carried out as follows:

By the size of the greenhouse, they dig a trench. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
A dense oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also desirable to cover the sides, but there formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, the concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400), 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of aggregate are taken. Aggregate - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fractions. Expanded clay should not be used - it absorbs moisture, can cause high humidity.
The surface is leveled "under the level". You can smooth it out with a wooden block.
Mortgages are installed in the foundation, at the corners and with a distance of 1 meter - studs or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Studs are placed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, reinforcement - if brick is to be laid. They stick out above the level of the foundation by at least 15 cm.
The poured foundation is covered with a film, stands for at least a week (at temperatures below 17 ° C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, it is watered a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, under the film, it is better to cover it with a coarse cloth (burlap).
If the bottom strapping is a beam, waterproofing is rolled over the concrete base. You can - roofing material in two layers, but now it is quickly collapsing, so it's better to take Hydroizol or something similar. You can smear concrete with bituminous mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
A row of strapping is laid:
Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. It is possible to install small sizes in the prepared trench, fill the space between them with mortar. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top, leveled. Mortgages are fixed in the seams.

Empty bottles can be used as building material. They are laid in rows, poured with concrete. It turns out a very economical and warm foundation. Its bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious building.

Timber foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. A beam is used with a large section - 100 * 100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, we can hope that the foundation will live for at least a few years.

Pile-grillage

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will serve for a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.

Next, you can fasten the strapping, or you can build on a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After that, we can say that the do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse is almost ready. It remains to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, bought or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work”, depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. His choice must be taken responsibly - the amount is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is better to use for the construction of greenhouses? Depends on the mode of operation of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you need a cell phone. If this option is exclusively for the warm season, corrugated (or monolithic) is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has more than its high thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the declared characteristics. It is only important that there is UV protection. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone, there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it is not pressed through, even if you make considerable efforts, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Mounting Features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat, works well, but all components cost decent money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to fix it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how they do it:

This is what concerns directly the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it gets dirty anyway and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate - blacken exfoliate. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it occurs frequently. So when developing a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse layout, provide half-meter walls from another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

Nowadays, he dreams of building a greenhouse on his site. A greenhouse is a very profitable building for a summer resident, because seedlings can be planted much earlier and, accordingly, the crop will ripen faster than in the garden. In the greenhouse, the humidity and microclimate favor the rapid growth of plants and vegetables. You can also grow seedlings in a greenhouse, for example, for sale, agree that it is a good help for the family budget. And if you build a larger greenhouse, you can even organize a family business and grow part of the vegetables for sale.

Basically, summer residents build greenhouses of small sizes and from materials such as plastic wrap or glass. This type of material is certainly good on the one hand. For example, a construction made of wood and polyethylene film, it is light and does not allow moisture and cold air to pass through from the outside side of the greenhouse. But the trouble is that this film, under the influence of direct sunlight and precipitation and wind, becomes unusable after one season of operation.

Also, summer residents build a glazed type of greenhouses, which also have their drawbacks. Firstly, the glass structure still has a decent weight, which can often affect a wooden building; of course, such a greenhouse will last longer. And one more problem - glass tends to shatter and crumble, for example, from hail or strong gusty winds.

Fortunately for all summer residents in our time, there is a universal material for greenhouses that has already gained considerable popularity and respect, and this material is called polycarbonate. Lightweight and durable, it transmits sunlight very well. The stores have a large selection of such polycarbonate greenhouses, but the price for them, of course, is not small and not everyone can afford it.

But what about a simple person, if he wants a greenhouse made of this material, of course, use ingenuity and imagination. So the author decided to build a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse. He bought this material in sheet form, which is much cheaper than buying a ready-made greenhouse. And the author decided to build a capital greenhouse, so that it would last until the end of his days and so that his grandchildren would also use it.

The author is building a greenhouse with a recess in the ground, which will provide increased thermal comfort for vegetables and plants planted there. Makes a solid construction of timber and boards. And so, what did the author need to build this greenhouse.

Materials: polycarbonate, brick, cement, sand, timber, board, nails, screws, hinges.
Instruments: hacksaw, hammer, pliers, axe, shovel, trowel, mallet, mortar trough.

Then he fills the foundation and lays out the brick base

In the future, he builds a wooden frame for the future greenhouse from timber and boards.

Then the glazing of the greenhouse begins from the roof.

And then, step by step, he continues to trim the greenhouse with polycarbonate.

Then he hangs the door and in fact the whole greenhouse is ready.

Inside, I made such beds for seedlings made of bricks, such ones will definitely stand for a century.

Many owners of private houses dream of having a greenhouse on their plots. This agrotechnical facility will help the owners provide their family with greens and some types of vegetables already in late spring or early summer. Well, some greenhouse designs, involving heating and lighting systems, are used to grow crops all year round.

A do-it-yourself greenhouse can be built of wood and brick in combination with metal elements, have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing the idea, the place where the greenhouse will be installed is first determined. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this structure will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If the "winter" option is chosen, then you need to know that the construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and it will also be necessary to carry out lighting, heating, plumbing and ventilation.

Then, it is necessary to choose the material of manufacture and the type of greenhouse construction. To focus on one of them, several of the most commonly used options will be considered.

Varieties of greenhouses

The design of greenhouses, in principle, is not very complicated, so any owner of the site can build it on their own. To do this, you only need to prepare the material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided into types, based on various criteria - this is the material of manufacture, the shape of the structure, whether it will be stationary or temporary.

Greenhouse covering material

Several different types of materials are used to cover greenhouses. They should be transparent, may have shades favorable for plant growth. For example, which has become especially popular recently, sometimes not only colorless transparent is chosen, but also a yellowish or green tint.

The KINPLAST company offers high-quality cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses. The material has excellent technical and operational characteristics. KINPLAST is the leading manufacturer of polycarbonate in the domestic market. The line of cellular polycarbonate includes brands such as WOGGEL - a material created in collaboration with foreign colleagues; SKYGLASS - universal polycarbonate with excellent characteristics at an affordable price; as well as specially designed grades of polycarbonate for use in agriculture AgroTITAN.

Often glass is used to cover the walls and roof of the greenhouse. In terms of its structural structure and transparency, it is excellent for this room, but for the installation of glazing, it is necessary to create an especially reliable, durable frame structure, since this material has a considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes erected from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will be extremely expensive.

Another option that is most often used to cover greenhouses is plastic wrap. It can be used for pulling on a frame erected from any material, as it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable, and it is easier to fix it on the frame crate.

To determine the choice of material, you need to carefully study its performance characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Material evaluation parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Miniature
Mount and weight	It is light in weight and can be used in certain structures without additional frame elements, as well as without a foundation.	Glass has the heaviest weight compared to other covering materials, and when choosing it, it will be necessary to think over a reliable frame installed on the foundation.	Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening. If the material is not reinforced, then it is fixed to the frame through special rails and additionally fixed with thin stretched ropes.
Durability	Polycarbonate as a greenhouse cover can last 18÷25 years, depending on its quality. This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure. Fixed to the frame, it does not deform and does not warp.	Glass can last a long time, as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture. On the other hand, glass is a brittle and inflexible material, therefore it does not tolerate mechanical stress, heavy loads and deformation of the frame structure.	Polyethylene has the shortest service life compared to other coating materials, as it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, from which it gradually collapses. In addition, it cannot be called resistant to temperature extremes.
Noise isolation	Cellular polycarbonate well muffles the noise of wind and rain, thanks to its structure.	If the installation of the material is performed poorly, then during a strong wind gusts of air can penetrate inside, and the glass will ring.	The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle a lot in the wind.
Appearance	Polycarbonate gives the building an aesthetic appearance and is able to make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory.	Properly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance.	The film looks neat and remains transparent only for the first season of its use, and even then - not always. Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmission.
Security	Polycarbonate has high strength, exceeding that of glass by about 200 times, and also lighter by about 15 times. When falling, the material does not break and cannot injure people inside or near the greenhouse with fragments.	Poorly installed glass is extremely dangerous for people working inside. In addition, if the fragments fall into the soil of the greenhouse, then you can seriously injure yourself during the subsequent tillage. Therefore, if the installation of glass is planned, then it is recommended to entrust its installation to professional craftsmen.	It is completely safe for people and for the soil of the greenhouse.
Care	It is easy to take care of this material - it is enough to wash it with water, setting a strong pressure in the hose. However, it should be noted that the dust on the surface of the polycarbonate is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.	Traces of raindrops remain on the glass, and dust is also well retained. To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to make a lot of physical effort. It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on the greenhouse roof.	The plastic film is not washed, because after wet cleaning, stains remain on it, and it becomes cloudy, which makes it difficult for the full penetration of light inside. The only way out in case of severe pollution is a complete replacement of the film.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate is able to reliably thermally insulate the greenhouse and protect plants from the wind. Vapors deposited on the inner surfaces flow down them into the soil. In addition, the material not only perfectly transmits light, but also makes it softer and more diffused. The heat generated by the soil and plants is reliably stored indoors, which creates the greenhouse effect.	Glass is not able to create high thermal insulation, if it is not metal-plastic structures with double-glazed windows. The material perfectly transmits light, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses on a specific bed, which is extremely harmful to plant leaves.	A dense new polyethylene film is capable of creating high thermal insulation, but over the season, under the influence of temperatures, sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities. Therefore, it is recommended that the film coating be changed every year.

After weighing all the "pluses" and "minuses" of materials, as well as taking into account the design of the intended structure, it will be possible to make a choice of the type of coating.

Greenhouse structures

Greenhouses have various designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box covered with a glazed frame. Structures are also used, half of their height going into the ground. It will be possible to stop your choice on one of the varieties only after the owner understands the features of each.

The simplest greenhouse design, which can be built from improvised materials, consists of an ordinary box, for example, 2000 × 1500 mm in size, assembled from boards and installed in a favorable area of \u200b\u200bthe local area. For such a greenhouse, old ones are often used as a roof.

Such greenhouses are usually used for growing seedlings or greenery from early spring to late autumn.

Another option that is simple and affordable in the construction of a greenhouse is a simple frame structure made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, fittings, and sometimes even thick steel wire, covered with plastic wrap.

If plastic pipes are chosen for the greenhouse, then even women's hands can make a frame out of them, since this material bends quite easily and keeps its shape well.

A similar version of the greenhouse can be used throughout the spring-summer season, from spring to late autumn. The convenience of the design lies in the fact that by planting seeds under the film, for example, tomatoes, after germination and strengthening, the seedlings can not be transplanted. It is simply thinned out, and when a stable and comfortable temperature for plants is established on the street, the film is removed from the structure, opening the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special mesh can be quickly thrown over the created frame, creating partial shade, but allowing light to penetrate to the plants in the right places.

A more complex structure, which is assembled from a wooden beam and covered with a film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The dimensions of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary on how many seedlings are planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener.

In this design, a swivel roof is necessarily provided for access to the plants of sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal version of the structure, and it is advisable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures it is recommended to grow vegetables and herbs in open ground.

Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with film coating

If you want to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, then you can make a greenhouse from a metal barrel, in which slots are made in the form of windows. A transparent polyethylene film is used as a roof in this design - it can be removed at any time by opening access to air, and if necessary, closed so that the night coolness of the off-season does not harm the plants.

A more complex greenhouse design, in which it is already possible to install moderate heating and start using it in the very early spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is already a full-fledged room, and in it not only plants, but also the gardener will be protected from wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense plastic film or cellular polycarbonate. When creating a pipe structure, you need to remember that it will turn out to be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the seedlings, therefore, to bind it to a place, it is necessary to drive metal corners or reinforcement into the ground.

An interesting solution - the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and accessories for them.

The capital structure of the greenhouse, equipped with heating and irrigation, can be used throughout the year. In order for such a greenhouse to work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.

This greenhouse is already a real capital structure

To make it easier to provide heating and water delivery to the greenhouse, quite often such structures are attached to the southern wall of the house. In this case, the building will serve as a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight the owners not only with fresh vegetables and herbs, but also with the color of ornamental plants.

Sometimes greenhouses are attached to the south side of the house, and they become real "winter gardens"

Another option for a winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating, is a room that extends half its height into the ground. This building, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called a "thermos greenhouse". To achieve the desired effect, a foundation pit is dug for this greenhouse, going deep into the ground by 1600 ÷ 2000 mm. Additionally, walls 500 ÷ 700 mm high are erected above the soil surface, and then the entire structure is covered with a frame made of timber or a metal corner.

The work on the construction of a building is quite laborious and lengthy, but during its operation it will be possible to save enough on its heating system. One of the important points in the construction of a thermos greenhouse is the arrangement of not only a heating system, but also effective ventilation.

greenhouse roof shape

The next criterion by which greenhouses are subdivided is the shape of the roof. Insolation largely depends on this, that is, high-quality lighting of the room, and hence the creation of optimal conditions for growing plants.

gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can most often be found in suburban areas, since it is this form that contributes to the effective illumination of the room from above. Given the correct location of the greenhouse, the sun will “work” all day from sunrise to sunset, contributing to the growth of plants.

"Classic" option - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter options for greenhouses, since at this time of the year the plants experience a shortage of sunlight.

arched structure

Arched structures are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The first is usually covered with a polyethylene film, and the second option is most often covered with polycarbonate. Metal structures can be purchased ready-made, and they will only have to be assembled on the site. Well, a frame made of metal-plastic pipes is quite easy to make on your own.

The convenience of such a greenhouse lies not only in its maximum illumination, but also in the fact that snow masses and water do not accumulate on the arched roof, which means that the coating will not be subject to deformation due to heavy load. Again, it will not be necessary to climb to a height to remove snow from its surface.

shed roof

One of the common options for a "serious" greenhouse is a strip foundation.

Under it, according to the marking, a trench digs, having a depth and width of 300 mm.
Since the walls of the greenhouse are not as heavy as those of residential buildings, a foundation depth of 300 mm is sufficient to withstand relatively small loads.
Above the ground, the base can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will serve as walls or they will be made of brick.
A sand cushion 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is laid and rammed into the finished trench, a layer of the same thickness is poured on top of it, and crushed stone is distributed.
A formwork of boards and timber is fixed along the trench, into which roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
In the next step, the formwork is filled with concrete, it is distributed, and then pierced with a bayonet spade and gently tapped on the formwork to remove air from the solution.
If the frame will be made of a metal corner or it will be needed to fix the wooden bars, then sometimes the support posts or pieces of the corner can be immediately embedded in the foundation.

The basis for the greenhouse-thermos

For a thermos greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a deep enough pit, and if you plan to arrange an agrotechnical structure of a large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such manual work will take a lot of time.

After marking the site, it is recommended to remove the top layer of fertile soil from it. After removing the soil, they pile it up, because it is perfect for laying a finished greenhouse in the beds.
When digging a pit, among the layers, you can stumble upon clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for warming a greenhouse.
The pit is deepened so that the gardener working in the greenhouse feels free, and there is a lot of free space above him. In order to maintain the desired temperature in the greenhouse, and the soil does not freeze, it is recommended to deepen the pit by about 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, then you will have to raise the side walls, as it will be ideal when the total height of the pit will correspond to the growth of the gardener.

The width of the greenhouse is usually from two to five meters. If the room is made wider, then it will quickly cool down, and a large amount of electricity will be required for lighting and heating. In addition, the construction of a transparent dome would be too complex.
When digging a foundation pit, a descent ramp is arranged on one side of it, where, along with the erection of walls, a ladder of several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
To begin work on ennobling the walls, a base is made under them. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter inside the pit. After that, a formwork is arranged in it and in the same way as in the case already considered, a strip foundation is poured.
After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to lining the walls with bricks or foam blocks. When laying, one or two ventilation pipes are immediately installed in the wall opposite the front door, at a height of 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.

The ventilation pipe is brought out and raised above the ground by 1000 ÷ 1500 mm.

Separately, it must be said about the masonry, since in this case, it is produced in a special way.

- To save on insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks, which are not cheap, you can use clay extracted from the pit, which is mixed with chopped straw and adobe bricks are formed from this mixture.

- If there is no desire to waste time, and there is an opportunity to purchase foam blocks, which are called fixed formwork, then you can immediately get "bricks with insulation." The blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed on top of each other with concrete mortar. Choosing the latter option, you will need to separate the foam wall from the soil surface of the pit with roofing felt or plastic wrap.

After the solution in the blocks hardens, a film or roofing material is hooked onto it, and the gap remaining between the waterproofing material and the soil wall of the pit is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and when filling, it is periodically tamped.

- If a brick is chosen for wall decoration, then it is insulated from the outside with the help of foam, which is mounted between the brick and soil wall. Thermal insulation material must also be protected or roofing material. The resulting gap, as in the first case, is filled with soil.

If the walls rise above the ground by 400 ÷ 600 mm, then they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be finished with a decorative coating - it can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for outdoor use.
If the walls are not high, then after waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered from above with corrugated board, fixed to the top of the wall. The corrugated board will provide an outflow of water that will drain from the greenhouse cover and keep the walls dry.

wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation can be wood, or rather, a wooden beam, having a section size of 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm. Such a foundation is suitable for a greenhouse that is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.

In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time, the wood must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and installed on a sandy, well-packed pillow. Another option is to raise it above the ground using concrete slabs.

Construction of a thermos greenhouse

The installation of all greenhouses takes place in different ways, depending on the type of construction and the period of use of the structure, since the "winter" options require a more thorough approach and additional functions. Probably, it is worth considering this, the most difficult option.

After the walls are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the frame under the greenhouse cover.
The frame is mounted from a metal profile or a wooden beam.

The first step is to attach a 100 × 150 mm beam to the walls of the greenhouse. Fixation is carried out by anchor fastenings or using embedded embedded elements.
The rafter system must be assembled from a bar of the same section as the strapping. To install the rafter legs on the harness, marking is carried out, since the rafter pairs must be distributed at the same distance from each other.
The rafters are fixed to the strapping with metal corners, and in the upper part they are interconnected using metal plates or using a ridge board.
Wooden bars of the crate are fixed to the rafters, but with a fairly large step. There should be no more than two or three of them for each slope so that they do not block the sunlight.
Polycarbonate sheets are laid on the crate, which are fixed to it with the help of special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.

Having completed the fastening of the covering material to the slopes, it is mounted in the same way on the gable parts of the roof.
After that, the door frame and the door itself are installed. It is desirable that the door leaf also be equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating optimal conditions for plants in the greenhouse

Thermal insulation of the greenhouse

In a greenhouse with a gable roof, one of its slopes must necessarily go south. The second side inside the greenhouse is recommended to finish. Such a system will help not only to keep warm, but even increase the illumination inside the structure, since the sun, falling on the insulation foil, will be reflected into the room.

The insulation is fixed on the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is bent onto the wall and glued to its surface using liquid nails. In the same way, all the walls of the greenhouse are insulated, only the transparent southern slope is left uninsulated, and the western end transparent side of the structure can be left.

It should be noted that foil polyethylene foam is an excellent vapor barrier membrane, and is able not only to enhance the lighting of the greenhouse, but also to keep water vapor and carbon dioxide inside it, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

In order for the heat not to leave the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable tightness of the greenhouse space. To do this, it is imperative to install doors or valves on the ventilation openings, on which it will be possible to set the desired gap as necessary or close them completely.

Greenhouse heating system

2. The coefficient of infiltration depends on the difference between the external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

3. The temperature inside the greenhouse (indicated in the formula t1), is usually taken equal to:

For growing seedlings - + 25 ° С;
For the normal development of vegetable beds - + 18 ° С.

If some exotic plants are grown, then the corresponding values are taken.

4. Outside temperature ( t2) are taken based on the results of meteorological observations in a particular region - the minimum during the coldest week during the planned season of using the greenhouse.

5. Thermal conductivity indicators ( wtp), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transferred to the outside by a coating of 1 m² with a temperature difference of 1 ° C, depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values for the most commonly used materials for covering stationary greenhouses:

Material	Thermal conductivity (W/m²×°С)
Glass:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.82
- thickness 6 mm;	5.77
- thickness 8 mm;	5.71
Polycarbonate sheet monolithic:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.33
- thickness 6 mm;	5.09
- thickness 8 mm;	4.84
Polycarbonate honeycomb sheet:
- thickness 4 mm;	3.6
- thickness 6 mm;	3.5
- thickness 8 mm;	3.3
- thickness 10 mm;	3.0
- thickness 16 mm;	2.4

Having all the necessary data, it will not be difficult to calculate the required electric heating power of the greenhouse. Even easier - use the online calculator below.

Many summer residents would like to grow fresh vegetables all year round. It is possible to come to the country house even in winter. The building is heated, with all communications. For vegetables, if you want to grow them in winter and spring, you will also need a warm house. A year-round heated greenhouse can be equipped with your own hands.

This is the most important thing to start - to choose the right place. At 30%, the location will determine the efficiency of the greenhouse.

Table. Options for choosing a place for a greenhouse

Parameter	Description
Daylight	Of course, in a stationary year-round greenhouse, additional artificial lighting will have to be provided, but why not use the possibilities of nature 100%. Plants should be provided with the maximum amount of daylight. By placing the greenhouse structure in a west to east direction in an open area, you will get maximum sun for the plants.
Wind	Cold winds can not only penetrate inside the structure through any even small cracks, but also, acting from the outside, reduce the temperature in it by 2-5 degrees. For young seedlings, such a difference can be fatal. Therefore, when installing a greenhouse, take care of its additional protection from the wind.
Water	Ideally, a year-round greenhouse has an automatic watering system. But if there is none, hydrocommunications should be located close, for convenient and efficient water intake and irrigation. Water temperature, especially in winter, also matters. Watering seedlings with cold water is unacceptable.
Approaches	Few people pay attention to this parameter. However, the approach to the greenhouse should be wide and comfortable. This will not only facilitate its construction, but also make comfortable and efficient operation.

Material selection

What to build from? There are many options. You need to choose such a material so that the building lasts a long time, is durable, airtight, economical. In this regard, the old film and glass classical buildings, equipped with frame structures using wood, have finally become a thing of the past.

Why film, glass and wood are not suitable?

Greenhouse made of wood and glass - photo

Even a heavy-duty film can tear - heat leakage will occur.
In the frames and between them, cracks will necessarily form over time, through which heat will also leave.
Glass breaks and in one layer has a low heat transfer.

What materials to choose for a year-round greenhouse?

The frame structure can be used when installing metal-plastic frames, provided they are double-glazed.
The walls of the greenhouse can be made of polycarbonate on a metal basis.
For a year-round greenhouse, a brick building is suitable.

Reliability, long service life, protection for growing crops - these are the main parameters by which greenhouse building material is selected.

Assembling a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate

Consider the polycarbonate structure, the features of its assembly and the tools and additional materials necessary for this.

What is good polycarbonate

This modern material has many positive performance qualities.

It has excellent thermal insulation properties.
It has a surprisingly flexible structure - it bends easily without breaking, which allows for the installation of even arched structures.
This new material is 16 times lighter than the thinnest glass.

In polycarbonate structures, shaped pipes act as a frame. In addition to them, you will need:

welding machine;
polycarbonate sheets;
bolts and sealant.

Assembly can be done in a few hours, according to the instructions that come with the finished greenhouse.

Advice! Not all ready-made designs provide transoms, but it is better to provide them, the possibility of ventilation will protect the plants from overheating.

The frame is assembled with bolts. Sheets are inserted into the frame. Don't forget to make the roof sloped (a 35-degree angle is enough) to keep snow from accumulating. Places of strips with open honeycombs on polycarbonate are treated with sealant to minimize heat loss.

Features of a metal-plastic greenhouse

Do-it-yourself metal-plastic structures are not the easiest thing to do. It will be the most durable for specialists, so it is better to make a custom-made greenhouse frame in a construction company that specializes in the manufacture of such products. Plus, the frame will need double glazing, which is also better to entrust to specialists.

As a result, the full cost of such a year-round greenhouse will not come cheap. But this is the most real opportunity to grow greens and vegetables all year round.

Advice! When installing a metal-plastic glazed greenhouse, it is recommended that one wall (north) be made not of glass and insulated.

The roof of such a greenhouse tilts 30 degrees. It is preferable to choose a single-slope configuration.

Features of a brick greenhouse

A brick greenhouse, or as it is also called capital, is a real “home” for plants, where life is possible all year round. This is not even a greenhouse anymore, but a real greenhouse in which you can grow not only vegetables, but also various exotic plants. Until now, despite new modern materials, such as metal-plastic and cellular polycarbonate, the option of a brick greenhouse is considered the most reliable, proven, optimal, and effective.

How to build a brick greenhouse

The construction can be done with your own hands, if you have at least minimal skills in brickwork and other construction work. But even without labor costs, a greenhouse will require a solid financial investment.

You will need:

brick;
mineral wool;
cement, sand;
roofing material;
boards, timber for rafters;
windows, doors, gutters.

The features of the building are that, unlike all other types of greenhouses, a brick one is a “two-room apartment” for green pets. The first room is the vestibule. Usually it occupies an area of 2x2 m or 2x2.5 m. Garden accessories, fertilizers, soil and other necessary things are stored in the vestibule, and a heating system (boiler, stove) is also installed.

The main greenhouse room can be any area that you are able to master.

The partition between the two rooms is made capital. It has a door installed. The second door from the vestibule leads outside. In the greenhouse, not only windows are made, but also transoms.

Another feature - for a capital greenhouse, you will have to fill in the foundation, preferably tape.

Table. The main stages of the construction of a brick greenhouse

Heating system

You can heat a greenhouse in different ways. From the simplest and most ancient - furnace, to new and modern infrared equipment and heat guns. Each system has its own disadvantages and advantages.

Table. Characteristics of greenhouse heating systems

Heating type	Characteristics
	Used in capital buildings. The simplest and least expensive method. Does not require complex structures. The oven is installed in the vestibule. Chimney - around the perimeter of the greenhouse. For the arrangement of stove heating, ventilation is necessary. Among the disadvantages are uneven heat supply, the need for constant monitoring, strong heating of the furnace surface, fire hazard. The walls of a gas-generating solid fuel furnace do not heat up.
	It can be installed in a greenhouse from any material. Considered the safest. You will need a tank with a boiler, a pump, pipes, water, electricity. Water is heated by electricity, distributed through the system with the help of a pump, cooling down and returned to the boiler. This method provides not only an optimal uniform thermal regime, but also the necessary humidity. But only specialists can install such a system. Operation will also require serious material costs.
	Alternative to water. You will need gas heaters and burners, as well as pipes evenly distributed throughout the greenhouse. Gas is burned, heat is distributed in the room. There are several drawbacks, the main one being the need for constant monitoring to avoid gas leakage. Additional ventilation will also be required. This option is more economical than water, heating is carried out evenly, the room heats up faster.
	The most popular and demanded type. Can be used in all greenhouses. There are many devices, including: convector batteries, cables, guns, heating mats. Most systems are equipped with sensors, it is possible to adjust the modes.
	You should not even try to install the system with your own hands - it is mounted only by professionals at the time of assembling the greenhouse structure. Heating is excellent, uniform, fast. Condensation does not accumulate (which happens in winter with all other systems). But there is a possibility of overdrying the air, so it is recommended to install humidifiers in parallel.

What vegetables are grown in a greenhouse all year round

In a heated greenhouse, you can grow absolutely any vegetables, herbs, berries, flowers, and even exotic plants. But if there is only one greenhouse on the site, and you give preference to vegetables, you will have to choose up to three vegetable crops and the same number of greens.

Vegetables

From traditional vegetables for year-round cultivation, they usually choose:

cucumbers;
tomatoes;
pepper;
Chinese cabbage;
radish;
salads.

Greenery

From spicy green crops are grown:

dill;
parsley;
cilantro;
basil;
green onion.

Pepper - can be sown and grown with any crops.

Tomatoes - grow well with onions and radishes.

Cucumbers - prefer radishes, lettuce and all green crops.

Greens - Can grow with all crops.

Advice! It is undesirable to combine cucumbers with tomatoes and cabbage with parsley in neighboring crops.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

The time for planting seedlings that have grown in rooms to a permanent place of growth in a capital heated greenhouse depends on the time you have chosen for sowing. For the successful planting of seedlings, there are certain rules.

Seedlings are ready for planting when they have at least 7-8 true leaves (peppers have at least 12). The bushes are strong, stable, not elongated, flower buds may begin to form in peppers and tomatoes. Leaf color is intense green.
Before planting, seedlings need to be hardened off two weeks in advance - they should be taken outside for several hours, gradually increasing the time.
Greenhouse soil is prepared in advance - it is filled with humus, a bucket of 1 m² (not manure!) And minerals (potassium and phosphorus - 40 g each, nitrogen - 30 g / m²). The soil is dug up, loosened, broken into holes.
The wells are watered with water, two liters each. Seedlings are also well watered two hours before planting.
The seedling is carefully removed from the seedling container with the help of a planting scoop, along with the root soil. If too long a root sticks out of the soil clod, it is allowed to pinch it by a third.
The seedling falls into the hole, holds with one hand, the second fills the space between the walls and the lump.
The soil is compacted near the stem, watered again. For plants that will be tied up (tomatoes, cucumbers, some varieties of pepper), it is immediately recommended to install pegs or plank trellises.

Plant care in the greenhouse

In a greenhouse that works all year round for the “production” of fresh vegetable products, plants need especially careful care.

The first important condition is soil preparation. Vegetables grown out of season in a greenhouse will place increased demands, primarily on the soil. It should be light, fertile, with a high concentration of substances needed by plants.

The following components are required in the composition of greenhouse soil:

manure;
turf;
peat;
straw (sawdust);
sand;
carbohydrate-containing and nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

The second condition is feeding. Vegetables and herbs need to be fed regularly throughout the entire growth and fruiting cycle.

The third important component of care is watering and humidity regime. Drip irrigation is preferred, or a fine shower (for some crops). If it is not possible to install an automatic irrigation system with temperature control of the supplied water, make sure that its temperature is not lower than the ambient temperature.

Heating is described in detail above. One has only to note that in the conditions of the middle zone, it will be necessary to heat a year-round greenhouse with different intensity for at least seven months a year.

An important care measure is weed control and soil loosening. The earthen crust is dangerous for all garden plants, but it is especially harmful to seedlings and seedlings in a greenhouse, where plants get less air than in open ground.

The loosening of greenhouse soil, depending on the composition of the soil, often begins even before germination (when sowing crops with seeds). If the seeds have not yet sprouted, but the crust has already formed, of course, it must be destroyed in order to make it easier for the seedlings to reach the surface. Loosening before germination is carried out between rows, to a depth of not more than 5 cm, with a light ripper.

When the main crops sprout, or after planting seedlings in the greenhouse, all loosening is combined with weeding and is carried out after watering. The soil is loosened closer to the stem of the plant, but so as not to destroy the lateral roots.

Advice! Vegetable crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, loosen immediately after planting seedlings deep, up to 7 cm. As the lateral roots grow, the loosening depth decreases, and the distance from the stem increases.

Also, in a year-round greenhouse, it is necessary to pay special attention to the prevention of diseases of vegetable crops, to take measures to treat diseases that have arisen, to remove vegetation residues, obsolete lashes, stems, leaves in a timely manner, and after harvesting, while preparing the greenhouse for a new sowing cycle, disinfect it.

Growing vegetables in a greenhouse will certainly bring excellent results if you follow all the rules for caring for seedlings and planting them in protected ground. The reward will be juicy and healthy fruits, vegetables and herbs from your own site all year round.

Video - How to build a large winter greenhouse

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