Make light cosmetic repairs in the bathroom at affordable prices. How to start a major bathroom renovation? What is the best bathroom renovation?

Many home masters do not know where to start repairing the bathroom and in what sequence to carry out such work. We have prepared detailed and understandable instructions.

The room in which we take water procedures is considered very specific. Serious humidity and temperature fluctuations are constantly present here, water flows in large volumes in it. It is clear that for the repair of such a room it is necessary to select special materials that can withstand all negative influences. To finish the premises of interest to us, they usually choose:

plastic panels;
porcelain stoneware;
tiles (for walls and floors).

These materials have the required qualities that allow them to be used in a room where there is steam and high temperature.

Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

In addition, the bathroom should have a special atmosphere that promotes relaxation of a person. So, you need to correctly think over the design of this room and choose the right color scheme for it. Most often, bathrooms are made in pastel colors that do not irritate a person, but, on the contrary, calm his nervous system after a busy day. Professional designers recommend finishing bathrooms with products in beige, blue, peach, and blue shades.

Thus, bathroom renovation should begin with the preparation of a design project, the selection and purchase of the required materials. At this stage, you will need to foresee a lot of little things and purchase a lot of various products, ranging from sewer pipes and glue for installing tiles to shutoff valves and a heated towel rail.

Now you need to decide on the scope of work and make a plan for their implementation. The sequence of self-renovation of the bathroom, as a rule, is as follows:

Preparing the room for renovations.
Analysis of the state of the existing floor covering and the choice of technology for its restoration or complete replacement.
Floor repair, insulation and waterproofing.
Installation of sewer and water pipes.
Laying electrical wiring.
Plastering of ceiling and wall surfaces, their sheathing with the selected material and insulation.
Installation of an efficient ventilation system.
Installation of sanitary equipment.

The given sequence will allow you to spend a minimum of time on giving the room for water procedures an ideal look.

Where to start preparing the described premises for its complete transformation with your own hands? Of course, from the dismantling of all plumbing fixtures installed in it, as well as furniture (if any), lighting fixtures, mirrors and hanging structures. If you are doing a major bathroom renovation, be sure to remove the faucets and faucets.

Removing old bathroom tiles

After that, proceed to remove the old finishing materials. Remove the lining from the walls and ceiling, knock down the ceramic tiles (along with the layer of glue that held them), wash off the paint. If you have a perforator, preparing the bathroom for a good repair goes much faster - feel free to knock everything that leaves the ceiling and walls. Your task is to get to the brick or panel masonry and floor slabs.

After such actions, it will be necessary that you "exposed" and carefully treat them with primers. They should be chosen wisely. Do not forget that now there are a variety of primers - bioprotective, hydrophobic, contact, increasing adhesion, strengthening. If you do not know what kind of composition you need to purchase, be sure to consult a specialist. Real help in this matter is often provided by consultants of good hardware stores.

The next step in preparing the bathroom is the revision of the flooring. When the old screed showed its best during operation (for example, you forgot to turn off the water, it flowed for a couple of hours, while not even a drop of moisture leaked to the neighbors below), leave it. If the screed has clearly served its purpose, it must be removed.

This operation is performed by a puncher with a chisel. With these tools, you can also remove the old cement substrate under the tile. Important point! If you do not touch the old screed, it is better to clean the substrate with a grinder equipped with a cleaning bowl-shaped circle (it is usually called a diamond cup). The cost of such a device is quite high. But it will always come in handy for a master who does all the housework with his own hands.

Now you can sweep away all the dirt and debris and proceed directly to the repair work.

screened quartz sand;
cement M500 (you can also take M400);
PVA emulsion;
water.

The ratio of cement to sand is 1 to 4. Water needs to be mixed as much as cement. It is most convenient to form a screed with your own hands using marker beacons. The mixture is applied with a layer of about 4–5 cm, rubbed with a building rule, after which it must be carefully smoothed out with a half-rubber made of polyurethane foam or stainless steel to an ideal state (no cracks, swell and other defects). Very important! A screed made on the basis of sand and cement must not be touched for 40 days. During this time, no work can be done in the bathroom.

Creating a new concrete floor screed

Waterproofing a room with high humidity is best done with materials made of polyester or aquaizol. Do not use ordinary waterproof film for this purpose. Lay the waterproofing material as carefully as possible, the joints between its individual parts are connected in two ways:

Building hair dryer.
Adhesive mastic, which has a special composition.

On the walls, waterproofing is brought in by 25–30 centimeters. Note that cuts in the moisture-proof film are not allowed in the corners of the room. It is better to bend the insulating material, make folds. But in no case do not cut the film.

It is almost impossible to see open sewer pipelines in apartments these days. Such communications spoil the whole look of the bathroom, nullify all the tricks of designers. Chasing the walls in order to hide the pipes is also not an option. This procedure is very tedious, dusty and really long.

Installation of pipelines in the bathroom

For this reason, sewer pipes are now most often mounted according to a special technique - they are launched along the bottom in a bundle, and then masked with galvanized slopes. The latter can then be easily glued with silicone tiles (facing). The silicone composition is also used for fixing the slope from the floor surface and to the wall.

Unfortunately, bathroom renovations cannot be done without shaving. In any case, you will need to make two strobes for cases when a separate faucet is installed on the washbasin, or one if a common faucet is used. One thing reassures - the length of the strob will be minimal. In addition, they are located vertically. It is relatively easy to punch them with your own hands, which cannot be said about horizontal strobes.

For a heated towel rail, it is desirable to install metal-plastic pipes. It is not worth looking for other options these days. Such tubular products are ideal in operation. They can be easily bent downhill using transition fittings.

But for the cold water supply system in the bathroom, polypropylene pipes (PPN) are more suitable. They are easily welded into a solid and reliable monolithic structure, and then hidden in the walls. It should be said right away that it is advisable to purchase fittings for such pipes from solid plastic. It is not advisable to use metal reinforcing elements. They can leak at any moment. But sealed plastic will never let water through.

Installation of the pipeline should begin with the installation of sewer pipes. Using sealant and seals, you will spend no more than one day on their assembly. After that, feel free to install polypropylene products for cold water and solder them. Be sure to blow out the pipes in the strobes with mounting foam. So you will be sure that the pipeline does not fog up. Yes, and heat loss in this case will be significantly reduced. Follow the recommended piping sequence and your bathroom renovation will go faster.

Electrical wiring is carried out with a cable protected by a double insulating layer. It is desirable to place the wire in a metal or plastic corrugation. It is better to use a metal sheath, as it shields the wiring perfectly.

Having dealt with communications, proceed to the processing of wall surfaces. performed by two compositions - starting (it has increased tenacity) and finishing. The latter perfectly levels the treated surface. It is necessary to plaster from the ceiling to the floor.

Plastering the walls in the bathroom

The following stages of repair work:

Insulation and ceiling lining. Thermal insulation is recommended to be made in the form of a pie, consisting of two glass-magnesium sheets and a heater placed between them. Sheathing can be made with clapboard (plastic) or laminated boards, which are fixed to the ceiling with building silicone or strong mounting glue.
Laying tiles on the floor. The sequence of the operation is as follows - mount the products on the glue, starting from the door, tap each tile with a hammer (rubber). All cut rows should be laid last and after the adhesive under the remaining rows has completely cured.
Wall covering. It is produced with plastic panels, porcelain stoneware, ordinary tiles.

The last stages of work are cleaning the ventilation duct (or installing a new one), installing a sink, bath (shower booth), faucets, water meters. If you were able to do all the previous operations, the placement of plumbing will pass without difficulty. There are no special tricks here.

Here, in principle, is the entire step-by-step plan for self-repairing the bathroom. You just need to start implementing it and after a while enjoy the new look of your water treatment room.

August 26, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

I know from experience that those who decide to do budget bathroom renovations often spend even more than those who do not bother with savings much. This is due to a number of factors: from the use of low-quality materials to the hiring of unskilled workers. I will share my experience in carrying out work and tell you how to meet the minimum budget and get an excellent result.

Description of the workflow

To better understand all aspects of this topic, I will explain with a specific example. So we have:

a typical room in a nine-story building of the P-44 series;
the size of the room is 1.7 by 1.7 meters, the ceiling height is 2.64 meters.

We will consider how much the decoration will cost us, I will not touch on the plumbing, since most often if the repair is done as economically as possible, then these elements do not change.

Stage number 1 - competent organization of the process

If you want to save on repairs, then these rules should become fundamental for you:

Do it all by hand	If we consider the cost of the services of specialists, we can notice such a feature that their work costs about the same as the materials. And taking into account the fact that we will use the most budgetary solutions, it is easy to guess that you will pay more for the services of builders than for materials. The conclusion is simple: we do everything ourselves and reduce the cost of the project by more than half
Use quality materials	I talk about how to make repairs using inexpensive, but not low-quality materials. In pursuit of savings, many begin to go too far and buy the cheapest product options, but this is not worth doing, as their reliability and appearance leave much to be desired. I will tell you how to choose solid solutions and at the same time pay a little
Follow the technology of work	Below I will tell you how to finish each of the sections, the process is described in steps, and there is not a single extra step in it. There is no need to skip individual stages, as this will inevitably reduce the quality of the work and negatively affect the final result.
Don't reschedule	If you want, among other things, to change the layout, then hoping for the cheapest repair is at least stupid. Any manipulations with the rearrangement of plumbing lead to the fact that it is necessary to shift communications, and here it makes no sense to save, everything must be done expensively and reliably

Another very important recommendation that directly affects the cost of the project is the use of those materials that are easy to work with and that you can lay or attach with high quality. Many times I completed repairs for those who overestimated their strength and, having completed a small part of the repair, realized that they would not master it. Then, of course, you need to spend a lot of money on the wages of the builder.

Be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend a lot of time and instead of cozy quiet evenings watching TV, you will have to destroy, level, lay, saw, fasten, and so on. There is no free cheese in mousetraps, you will have to pay for the savings with your time, but if you take into service all the tips from this article, then the costs will be minimal.

You must have a work plan in advance in order to make an economical repair from scratch with your own hands, you need to clearly plan each step and accurately calculate the materials so as not to purchase too much. Just read all the sections below, and based on them, you can easily draw up a clear plan.

Stage number 2 - the acquisition of everything you need

I will tell you how the simplest estimate for bathroom renovation is compiled - the sample can be adapted to your room in order to carry out all the calculations. The estimate is a list of the necessary materials indicating their quantity and cost, since we carry out the work ourselves, it makes no sense to include their cost, unless you assign yourself a financial incentive for a successfully implemented project.

The calculation of the cost is made for the individual parts of the room, we will consider each of them and start with the floor. Linoleum will be laid on the floor, let's figure out how to choose it:

Since the room is damp, you should purchase options without a base or based on PVC, since it is not afraid of dampness and mold and fungus do not form in it.
The dimensions of the bathroom are 1.7x1.7, the area is 2.89 square meters, but no one will cut the material according to our dimensions, it is sold in linear meters. In our case, the optimal width is 2 meters, since there will be the least waste from it, we need 2 linear meters, that is, 4 squares;

Having called all the retail facilities, I found a PVC-based option, which cost 224 rubles per square meter. Upon inspection, I made sure that the surface is strong without damage and marriage, the substrate is elastic, and the material is . As a result, I paid 896 rubles for 4 squares;
In order for the joints of the floor and walls to be neat, a plinth is needed, I found a plastic “Comfort” at 56 rubles apiece 2.5 meters long. We need to close 3 walls, and on the fourth there is a door 60 cm wide with 8 cm cashings, that is, the opening occupies 76 cm. waste from elements that will go to the walls;

As a result, you need to purchase 3 skirting board strips for 56 rubles each, 4 inner corners for 35 rubles each and two plugs - right and left for adjoining the door frame, they cost 27 rubles. Adding all the results, we get (56x3) + (35x4) + (27x2) = 362 rubles;

We will use liquid nails to fix the baseboard, I bought a convenient 200 ml tube for 104 rubles.

Now let's summarize all the expenses: I spent 896+362+104=1362 rubles on finishing materials for the floor, compared with conventional projects, the amount is several times less.

We will level the ceiling with putty and paint it with moisture-resistant white, so we need the following materials:

To level the surface, I use the composition "Vetonit VH", which is designed for use in wet areas and guarantees a reliable result. The ceiling did not have significant irregularities, so one bag of composition weighing 20 kg is enough, which costs 456 rubles;

For painting, we need paint for wet rooms, I chose the latex-based option. You need to apply the composition in 2-3 layers, so I bought a 3 kg package, for which I paid 190 rubles;

To treat the surface and strengthen it, a primer is needed, I purchased Tikkurila products with a volume of 900 ml for 124 rubles, this is quite enough for our purposes.

Now we summarize all the costs: 456 + 190 + 124 = 770 rubles we need for the ceiling.

Let's move on to the most expensive part - the walls, for them I chose PVC panels 250 mm wide and 2.7 meters long - there will be a minimum of waste. This material is not afraid of moisture, it is easy to wash, so it is suitable for the bath just fine.

Let's figure out what we need to work:

It is necessary to calculate the number of panels, with their width of 250 mm, you need to divide the length of the walls by this indicator. But we must not forget that on one of the surfaces there is an opening measuring 700x2100, on one side of it there will be one whole panel, on the other three, and above the doors we will need three pieces 540 mm long, that is, we will cut one element. So, on the wall with the door we need 4 whole panels, remember this figure and move on;
Divide the wall length of 170 cm by 25 cm, we get 7 panels, multiply this result by 3 and get 21 pieces. We add 4 panels from the above paragraph and get 25 elements - so much is needed to decorate the walls in the bathroom. I found products for 127 rubles apiece, the total costs amounted to 3175 rubles;
For installation, we need components, first of all, this is an internal corner, these elements are sold in pieces of 3 meters and cost 50 rubles. We need 4 pieces, that is, the costs will be 200 rubles;
Above, below and around the perimeter of the opening, I decided to put a starting profile, which is sold in pieces of 3 meters, you need 4 elements on top, 2 elements to frame the doorway, you can also join the pieces at the bottom, since this part will be closed with a plinth, but you still need 1 whole piece. In total, 7 starting bars are needed, the costs at a price of 45 rubles will be 315 rubles;
We will mount the panels on a bar measuring 25x50 mm, it will be located horizontally in increments of 30 cm so that the surface is strong and does not sag. With a height of 264 cm, 9 rows need to be fixed, we count in running meters 9x1.7 = 15.3 meters, multiply by 3 whole walls and get about 46 meters;

Less material will go on the wall with a door, 3 pieces 170 cm long, 6 pieces 80 cm long and 6 pieces about 20 cm long. In addition, you need to nail vertical strips along the opening, 2 pieces 210 cm each for its secure frame. As a result, we get the following result (170x3) + (80x6) + (20x6) + (210x2) = 1530 cm or the same 15.3 meters;
Summing up all the numbers, we get 61.3 meters, the bar is sold in pieces of 3 meters, that is, we need 21 pieces. We have lumber of this type costs 40 rubles apiece, that is, I spent 840 rubles for the entire volume;
I will fasten all the elements using a stapler, I will need staples, a package of 1000 pieces costs 45 rubles, and this is quite enough for the job.

The bar will be fastened with 6x50 quick-mount dowels, about 200 pieces will go to all the walls, at a price of 25 rubles, the cost is 500 rubles.

Let's calculate all expenses: 3175+200+315+840+45+500=5075 rubles.

For clarity, I will show all the results in a pivot table:

Bathroom floor
Material name	Quantity	Amount, rubles
Linoleum	4 sq.m.	896
Plinth 2.7 meters	3 pcs.	168
Inner corner	4 things.	140
Plug left and right	2 pcs.	54
Liquid Nails	200 ml.	104
Ceiling
Putty "Vetonit VH"	20 kg	456
Latex paint	3 kg	190
Strengthening soil	900 gr.	124
Walls
PVC panels 2500x250 mm	25 pcs.	3175
PVC inner corner	4 things.	200
starting bar	7 pcs.	315
Edged bar 25x50x3000 mm	21 pcs.	840
Staples for a stapler pack. 100 pieces.	1 pack	45
Fast mounting dowel 6x50	200 pcs	500
TOTAL:		7207

As you can see, a cheap do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is not a fantasy or a fairy tale, while I did not use the cheapest compounds and materials, everything I purchased is of good quality and attractive appearance.

Stage number 3 - dismantling of old coatings

It is impossible to carry out work without removing the old tile or without removing the worn floor covering. Of course, if you have a floor or ceiling in good condition, then it makes sense to leave them. For example, if the tile on the floor looks normal, then you can freshen up the surface by removing the old grout and filling the joints with a new compound. The same applies to the ceiling: if it is even, then you can remove the old coating and repaint it.

But in practice, most often it turns out like this, then you need to do the floor, and the walls, and the ceiling, so I will consider just such an option, before making repairs on a budget, I will have to sweat to remove the remnants of old coatings.

The following work is to be done:

On the ceiling, most often old whitewashing or paint that has turned black from time to time. Sometimes there are many layers on the surface, and it takes a lot of time to remove them. I use a scraper, but you can use a spatula, knife and any other device convenient for you, the main thing is that you can remove the old coating;

Old whitewash and water-based paint will come off much easier if the surface is well moistened and left for 20-30 minutes.

As for the walls, they can either have many layers of paint and whitewash, or old tiles. The compositions are cleaned off as described above, but you will have to tinker with the tiles, it is best to use a puncher with a special blade for work. If there is no power tool, then you will have to work the old fashioned way - with a hammer and a chisel, the work is tedious, but one way or another it needs to be done;

Lastly, the floor surface is prepared, in my case there was linoleum, so the work was simple: I removed the old coating and got a flat surface, completely ready for work. If you have an old tile, you will have to tinker, removing it from the surface, the same tools are used for work as in the paragraph above.

Naturally, you need to take out everything superfluous from the room, you should only have prepared walls left.

Stage number 4 - finishing the ceiling

It is from this part of the bathroom that I advise you to start work for the simple reason that a lot of dust will form in the process, and the putty may fall down. The finishing option that I am considering is the most budgetary - you can achieve an excellent result with your own hands for the simple reason that the ceiling area is small and it will not be difficult to perfectly align it even with a lack of experience.

The instruction for the work looks like this:

First you need to check the plane with a level or a flat bar to see what irregularities need to be eliminated;
The surface must be treated with a primer to strengthen it and remove dust, the composition is applied with a brush and dries for about an hour;
Then the composition is prepared, it retains plasticity for a couple of hours, so I advise you to do no more than 5 liters at a time, your work speed will be low, so you are unlikely to use up more. All the features of mixing the composition are indicated on the packaging, so there should not be any problems with this part of the work;

The first layer needs to eliminate all significant irregularities, if there are none, then simply putty the entire surface, creating a kind of base, do not worry about stains, they will be eliminated. After the surface dries, the influxes are easily cut off with a spatula, after which you need to check it with the level again;
The second layer should level the ceiling, try to do the work carefully, there may be sagging on the surface, but the holes should not remain, since they cannot be eliminated. In extreme cases, you can walk a third time if the ceiling was uneven and you have to display a plane with large drops;

After drying, the dirtiest part lies ahead - grouting the surface, bring a respirator and goggles, as when sanding, the dust will fly into the eyes and enter the respiratory tract. In order to control the plane, use a simple trick: hold a light bulb near the surface, it perfectly shows all the irregularities and allows you to perfectly level the surface at one time;
After finishing work, the surface is cleaned with a brush or broom, after which it can be painted. The work is carried out in 2-3 layers, you can use both a brush and a roller, it all depends on convenience. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Stage number 5 - flooring flooring

When considering how to make a floor economically, linoleum will always be out of competition, not only due to its low price, but also the reliability and durability of the coating. In the bathroom, this coating is placed very simply:

The surface is cleaned of dust and debris, it can be wiped with a damp cloth to clean as well as possible;
Next, the material is spread, it will go onto the walls, so you need to place it evenly, after which the excess is cut off with a construction or any other sharp knife. Do this carefully, as it is unlikely that you will be able to glue what is cut off by mistake;

We don’t have any joints, which simplifies the process, the only thing is that you may need to fix the material in the doorway, for this you can buy a metal threshold.

Due to the fact that the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is small, plus there will be a bathtub on the surface, there is no need to glue linoleum, but if you want to strengthen the coating, you can use double-sided tape. The plinth will be fixed subsequently, at this stage this stage can be considered completed.

Stage number 6 - wall decoration

First, a process diagram is presented, and below each stage is described in detail:

The frame is leveled; when attaching elements, you can put chips and pieces of wood under them to output the ideal plane. A hole is drilled in the bar, then a hole in the wall is drilled right through it and a quick-mount dowel is hammered. You can fill your hand in literally 10 minutes, so the process will go quickly;

Then, corners are attached in the corners, and a starting profile is attached above and below, as well as around the perimeter of the opening.. The main thing is to accurately cut the bar at the joints so that everything looks neat. Fastening is done using a stapler, it is very fast and very reliable;
A panel is inserted into the upper and lower guides and wound into a corner, after which it is fixed with brackets to the bars. The work is done in this way until the entire wall is finished, the last plank is cut so that it is 3-4 mm wider, the corner or the starting profile is slightly bent and the element falls into place. Plastic bends well, but you still shouldn’t be too zealous, do everything carefully.

After finishing the walls, you can glue the plastic plinth, do not forget to put the corners and plugs so that all the elements fit perfectly with each other.

This is a simple example of how to make a cheap bathroom renovation, even if you spend 1-2 thousand more, but still the costs are not comparable to those that you would incur using standard materials and hiring builders.

Conclusion

It is quite possible to transform the bathroom, while spending a little more than 7 thousand, and I showed this with a specific example. I tried to talk about everything in detail so that you can understand the topic, and the video in this article will clearly show some important points so that you understand some of the nuances even better. If you have any questions - write them in the comments below.

August 26, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Most repairs in the bathroom can be done independently, without resorting to the help of specialists. This is especially true for the cosmetic finishing of the room, since even a novice master can hide pipes in a gypsum board box and lay ceramic tiles. Before carrying out work, you need to draw up a design project for the bathroom and determine where to start repairing the bathroom.

Is it possible to do everything by hand?

Basic work in the repair of the bathroom can be done independently. A novice master can easily pour a screed with his own hands, make waterproofing, plaster walls, solder plastic pipes, assemble a drywall box and lay tiles.

More skills will be required when installing electrical wiring. In this case, people who do not have experience should contact a specialist.

Renovations in the bathroom should be done in compliance with the technology. All construction work must be carried out in strict sequence.

Prices and costs

The main question that arises before repairing the bathroom is where to start remodeling the bathroom. Experts recommend at the first stage to decide on the budget. It is necessary to designate the upper price bar for finishing materials, since all expenses will fall on them. Having an approximate estimate will help you avoid unnecessary expenses.

It is recommended to buy building materials in one store, since discounts are often given for bulk orders. The required amount of dry mixes can be calculated by knowing the surface area on which they will be applied. Tiles and porcelain stoneware need to be bought with a margin of 10-15%.

To reduce costs, you should refuse the help of a designer. You can think over the style of the room and the arrangement of furniture yourself. To facilitate the task, it is worth creating a three-dimensional model of the room using a computer program.

Sequence of work

The correct sequence of repairs in the bathroom is the key to a quality finish. All work is carried out in several stages. To begin with, the old finishes and pipes are dismantled in the room, all unnecessary items are removed.

Then the surfaces of the walls and floor are leveled. After that, they move on to the markup of communications. The layout of the electrics and ventilation should be thought out in advance. Then the room is finished. The final stage is the connection of plumbing and installation of furniture.

Repair plan:

Dismantling of the bath, old coatings and doors.
Wall plastering.
Engineering works (rough installation of pipes, electrics).
Floor leveling.
Waterproofing works.
Seal pipes in a drywall box (if necessary, install the installation on the gypsum plasterboard).
Laying tiles.
Door leaf installation.
Ceiling finish.
Plumbing connection.

Planning

An important part of planning is the choice of finishing materials and plumbing. For repairs choose ceramic tiles, plastic panels. Do in the bathroom and decorative plaster walls. It is better not to save on building mixtures. Plumbing equipment is recommended to be selected taking into account the size of the room.

Purchase of materials

To finish the bathroom you will need the following rough materials:

plaster;
bulk screed for the floor;
waterproofing mixture;
tile adhesive;
drywall;
primer;
concrete contact;
metal profile, beacons.

For the installation of electrical wiring and ventilation elements, corrugations and a VVG-P cable will be needed. An important point: electrical equipment for the bathroom (lights, sockets) must be with a protective class IPX4.

Dismantling Features

To dismantle the old tiles, use a perforator, a chisel and a hammer. Work must be carried out very carefully so as not to get hurt on flying pieces of tiles. Use goggles and gloves for protection.

Dismantling begins with any extreme tile. A piece is beaten off from it with a hammer, and then the tile is pryed with a chisel. The lining is removed piece by piece. The work of a perforator is carried out in a similar way.

On a previously painted surface, before laying the tiles, it is necessary to apply notches with an ax. Then the surface is polished with coarse-grained sandpaper. Peeling elements (old paint, plaster) are removed with a spatula.

Floor screed and waterproofing

During the repair, the old screed is dismantled if there are defects and drops. The cleaned floor should be pre-vacuumed and primed. The screed is poured over the beacons, located according to the level. It is better to use non-shrink mixtures that quickly gain strength. This will help shorten the repair time.

Bathtub waterproofing is done in 2 ways:

It is done before and after leveling the floor. To do this, first use rolled, and then coating waterproofing. This method is recommended for apartments on the upper floors, because this double protection will reduce damage in case of flooding.
In the second case, the walls and floor are covered with a thin-layer cement-based waterproofing mixture.. Before work, the surface will need to be moistened with water. The waterproofing solution is applied to the corners. Then a mesh tape is glued onto it. After gluing the corners, the mixture is applied to the remaining surfaces, rubbing it into the base. She is allowed to harden for 3-6 hours. The second layer is applied perpendicular to the first. This method of waterproofing prevents water from entering under the tiles from the outside and helps protect the finish in adjacent rooms.

Piping installation and electrical wiring

When repairing, be sure to redo the old sewer pipes. They should be replaced with polypropylene. To dismantle the heated towel rail, you will have to turn off the water in the riser. Piping is done for plumbing.

For the installation of electrical wiring, corrugation or insulating boxes are used. They are laid horizontally and vertically in the channels, which are ditched with a grinder.

Then plastering is done on top. Communications are hidden under a stretch ceiling and drywall. Their locations are marked on the wiring diagram.

The final stage of the repair

After installing the plastic pipes, you need to assemble a box for them. To do this, use drywall sheets that are not afraid of moisture. The basis of the box - guides from the profile. GKL is attached on top of them. For quick access to the meters, the structure is equipped with an inspection hatch.

After installing the box, you need to finish the walls and floor. Tiles are laid from the bottom up. When finishing, you need to properly trim the material. Tiles located in the corners should be the same size. After finishing the surfaces in the bathroom, they proceed to the installation of plumbing.

How to save at the planning stage?

Planning is an important stage of repair, because it allows you to avoid a number of mistakes. Especially carefully you need to think through all the work with a limited budget. To save money, you can:

Calculate when planning a possible adjustment to the size of the room. This will save on facing material. To lay fewer rows of tiles, you can move the drywall wall with the installation forward or reduce the height of the ceiling with trim. You need to adjust the size of the room, taking into account the size of the tile.
Find plumbing (for example, installation), for which you will not need to buy additional parts. The set must be complete.
Before buying any equipment thoroughly find out its features. This will avoid installation problems.
Combine materials. This is especially true for rooms with a large area. To save money, the area around the bathtub and sink is tiled, and the rest of the surfaces are painted. Less money will be spent on a plasterboard ceiling, which can also be mounted independently.
Take the necessary tool to rent, not to buy. You may need: tile cutter, perforator, screwdriver, grinder.

findings

The order of repair depends on the characteristics of the room and the selected materials. If the walls were treated with acrylic paint, then you can do without plastering. Before laying the tiles, they will need to be notched. Concrete surfaces should be treated with a primer that increases the adhesion of the base.

First of all, think about where to start renovating the bathroom. First of all, you need to consider the state of communication systems. Check pipes, ventilation. In the absence of obvious problems, you can refuse a major alteration of communications.

Video instruction

The bathroom is one of the most difficult rooms in the house to renovate, despite the limited space. When choosing finishing materials, you have to constantly remember about the high level of humidity. Wrong - the textures and colors of the finishes make the compact space even smaller. The question arises: how to cheaply make repairs in the bathroom with your own hands, so that it turns out right and beautiful?

Choosing inexpensive materials

Whether cosmetic repairs or a global reconstruction of the premises are planned, you can always save on materials.

1. Floor. Linoleum is the cheapest flooring, especially if you choose a roll of optimal width (3-5 meters), preventing large residues from appearing. However, the material cannot be called durable, stable humidity can lead to mold. A practical solution is tiles, the most affordable are plain products.

Walls. Wanting to save money, you can stop at plastic panels. They cope with significant mechanical loads, are easy to maintain and install. An alternative choice that is as practical as paneling is budget-friendly plain tiles.
Ceiling. Inexpensive options - suspended ceiling, moisture-resistant paint coating. If a waterproof paint is selected, leveling with putty must be included in the estimate.

Important. It’s definitely not worth saving on plumbing if you can’t do without replacing it. The sudden failure of low-quality equipment will nullify all efforts and ruin relations with neighbors. You can choose other materials, for example, abandoning the tile in favor of a coating of textured plaster.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work includes the dismantling of old plumbing, the removal of previous finishing materials, waterproofing, leveling, laying communications. Depending on the "global" repair, this list may change.

Dismantling plumbing

Even if replacing plumbing is not included in the plans, it is best to temporarily remove the bathtub and sink before you make a budget repair yourself. It may also be advisable to remove the door.

Dismantling of coatings

An obligatory part of preparing a bathroom for renovation is the removal of old coatings.

- It is convenient to knock down a tile, armed with a perforator. Be sure to beat off the plaster if it moves away from the wall.

To get rid of the paint, you will need a metal brush and a spatula.
It may be necessary to replace the screed under the tile if large cracks are present. It is convenient to clean the floor to a concrete base using a perforator or chisel.

Video guide for removing old tiles:

Attention. Be sure to assess the condition of the sewer and water risers. Replacing them after repair is a difficult task.

Surface preparation

The next stage of work combines the arrangement of a leveling screed, a primer.

- The base of the floor is carefully dedusted, cleaned and primed.
- To create waterproofing, a special film is needed. The material is laid on the floor with an institution on the walls.
- An alternative to film is applying mastic with a roller or flat brush. The composition covers not only the floor, but also the lower section of the walls.
- A leveling screed is made on top of the waterproofing.
- A special composition is being prepared for wall plastering - 1 part of cement (M400 and above), 4 parts of quartz sand (sifted).

Advice. To make the mixture more plastic, it should be diluted with PVA emulsion, using one tenth of the volume of water in the solution.

Perforated planks - beacons - are placed on the walls before plastering. They are mounted on tile adhesive, wood corks or cement-sand mortar.
You can abandon the plaster in favor of finishing with drywall, not forgetting about the treatment with waterproofing mastic. Also, the walls under the sheathing should be treated with an antifungal agent.
For fastening moisture-resistant drywall, a special glue (for example, Perlflix) or a metal profile is used.

Attention. If it is decided to do without tiles, the choice is made in favor of plastic panels, alignment is not required. It is very important to treat the walls using a fungicide or a quartz lamp.

Laying communications

Pipe replacement is a manipulation that follows the dismantling of the old coating. You will have to decide for yourself what to do if the goal is to make repairs in a small room quickly, change or not change pipes. Leakage of old communications will make new repairs necessary.

video on replacing pipes in the bathroom:

In addition to replacing pipes, it is worth installing new electrical wiring. It is necessary to determine a place for electrical appliances, provide the required number of outlets, replace the switch and wires.

wall decoration

Tiles and wall panels are the two most economical options for.

Wall cladding with plastic

The technology of wall cladding with plastic, if you give it step by step, is as follows.

The optimal frame for wall panels is pine timber (30 by 30, 25 by 30). To prevent rotting of wood, it is necessary to treat the material with special compounds before installation.
The frame is fastened with self-tapping screws, holes with plastic sleeves drilled in concrete are pre-prepared.
This is followed by fastening the panels, you can use a special stapler or resort to the same self-tapping screws.

Advice. Fastening with self-tapping screws or a stapler will lead to ugly bulging of fasteners. The most aesthetic option is the “liquid nails” tool.

Wall tiling

Before you make an inexpensive repair, it is better to calculate the number of tiles. This may help. The top row cannot be cut; a preliminary calculation will help save on alterations.

Important. The material is calculated so that the tiles have the same width along the edges of the wall. This is an indispensable condition, without which a beautiful repair is impossible.

Spacer crosses must be installed between the tiles. The ideal thickness for a bathroom is 3mm.
As soon as the tile has set, the spacer crosses are removed from the joints, the surface of the walls is thoroughly cleaned with a natural dry cloth.

Grouting

The consistency of the grout should resemble warm butter. To do this, it is pre-mixed with water.

A soft rubber spatula is best suited for grouting.
After applying the composition, you need to wait 20 minutes, then process the seam with your finger (gloves are put on). This manipulation will deepen the seam.
The final stage is rubbing the grout, this action should be done in an hour. It is impossible to postpone the procedure for the next day.

corner patching

There are several ways to improve the appearance of joints in the toilet and bathroom.

1. The corners are rubbed parallel with the seams. The disadvantage of this technique is the difficulty that self-taught masters face when grouting internal corners. The solution is on the tile, the seam looks careless.

Advice. Masking tape is glued on both sides along the corner. The corner is filled with grout, the composition is leveled with a finger. Then the adhesive tape is removed, the result is a smooth, neat line.

White silicone sealant. Manipulations are almost similar to grouting. Plus sealant - color retention.
Plastic corners, they can be external or internal. When choosing the thickness of products, you need to know the exact dimensions of the tile.
Combined option. Plastic corners are used for external corners, sealant or grout for internal ones.

Important. The connection points of the tiles with the toilet and sink must be filled with silicone. This avoids the formation of dirt.

Floor and ceiling finishing

Working with the floor and ceiling is in many ways similar to the manipulations made when decorating walls. However, there are still some differences.

Floor finish

Floor tiles are the best choice for those who are interested in the question of how to make repairs beautifully and cheaply.

The floor, leveled with a screed, is covered with tile adhesive. The recommended application area is 0.7-1 sq. m, this is due to the instant drying of most compositions.
The tile is laid on the floor, carefully pressed against the floor and tapped with a hammer with a rubber nozzle. Direction - to the edges from the center.
The correct laying is checked by the level before the glue dries.
Lastly, the cut products are mounted - around the pipes, around the perimeter of the room.
The seams are rubbed, the floor covering is cleaned.

Ceiling finish

The most budget options for decorating the ceiling are suspended structures, putty. Putty is relevant if the bathroom area leaves much to be desired, the material is applied to a concrete slab. The ceiling of plasterboard or lining is installed by analogy with the wall.

Final stage

The bathroom renovation is nearly complete. It remains only to install plumbing, accessories and furniture.

It is most convenient to install plumbing devices after the completion of finishing work. This will provide full access to all surfaces of the room and keep old or new plumbing from damage.
Doors are installed after plumbing so that they do not suffer in the process of entering it. Then all kinds of hooks, lighting fixtures, mirrors and other little things are attached.

Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is the best way to save money.

In the event that you do not feel the strength to carry out the repair of the bathroom yourself, professional teams will come to the rescue, who will make repairs quickly, efficiently and inexpensively. On our website, you can quickly calculate the cost of repairing not only your bathroom, but the entire apartment.
Unfortunately the service is still running. only for residents of Moscow, Moscow region, St. Petersburg and Leningrad region:

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom with your own hands? This is not surprising, since the implementation of the entire repair process on your own will be much cheaper. On average, the amount of the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in repair, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to contact the specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about do-it-yourself bathroom renovation with a photo and then finally decide on your decision. In it, we will dwell in sufficient detail on the production of actions in their chronological order, indicating the materials and the approximate cost of the costs of the necessary materials.

To carry out a bathroom renovation with your own hands, you will have the following:

Choose plumbing, determine its quantity and nomenclature;
Develop a bathroom design and choose the color you need:
Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
Prepare the room in which the repair will be carried out;
Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of its repair and purchase materials for the work;
Repair floor. This item will include:
its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
screed replacement, under the screed rises the layer created to level the floor, and on which the flooring is usually installed.
floor insulation;
Pipeline laying;
Work with electrical wiring;
Plastering of the ceiling and walls;
Wall cladding, grouting and sealing corners;
flooring;
Installation of a ventilation system.
Installation of plumbing of your choice.

The time that you spend on do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is counted from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly to the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing

It is difficult to talk about specific tips here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. We only mention that when repairing, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the preparation of the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Design stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing, as it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristic of the tiled wall covering depends on the shape of the washbasin. It will be impossible to specify all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are made out the same way with the same materials from the same supplier, respectively, the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. In an ordinary house, it makes no sense to think about a mixer built into the wall, since such an opportunity is laid even during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use normal commercial wood and simple steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in a place with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment is tight on space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think and choose a design that you like.

estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. There are a number of parameters that are essential, but which are quite difficult to figure out without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a large variation in temperature and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, it will be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

Some parameters, you most likely will not find in the description of the material, so you should select materials that are directly intended for use in the bathroom. The materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

The price of a tile will be from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles of domestic and European manufacturers on average do not differ from each other, but European samples usually have a better design. The situation for floor tiles and wall tiles is the same, the difference is only in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles apiece, however, it is recommended to use it for flooring. Unlike ordinary ceramic tiles, they have a non-slip surface and greater durability. Considering the rather high traumatism of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store, you should pay attention to the condition of the surface of the tile. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of uncleaned dirt. In order to make sure the integrity of the tile you choose, lean it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the aspect ratio. If the tiles are of different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to spend time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take a few pairs and attach the edges to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be even.
Tile adhesive. Considering that the work on installing the tiles will be carried out by you yourself, the best choice would be slow-drying glue, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the package. If for some reason the package does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a large-toothed trowel will most likely result in cavities under the tiles.
Templates for laying tiles. It is best to take plastic crosses, because they are easier to work with.
Tile grout. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting.
Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
Bulk floor. For the bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is the initial viscous filling, then comes the liquid one, for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the effect of insulation - from 640 rubles per square meter.
Teak or larch floor. If you decide to make a wooden rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels better. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water (PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes is difficult, metal-plastic tends to flow in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes go from 45 rubles. Fittings fall into the same category. Solid plastic fittings are most preferred as this will avoid potential leaks. The transition to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. When buying, measure the outer diameter of the pipe with a caliper. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles for a 5-liter package.
Plumbing. It all depends on your choice, let's just not skimp on quality - plumbing should serve for a long time and in good faith. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a stainless steel heated towel rail. Other options are either of poor quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider buying one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you bring your hands up to a pre-set temperature. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to cut your water costs by half, and heating energy by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on the current market value. Nevertheless, you can somehow navigate at such prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the repair of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need all of the above directly when performing work, some of the options presented are alternatives, their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

We repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials, their use will only lead to more complicated work. When purchasing materials, consider possible marriage and calculation errors: there is almost always a need for some stock. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials, add 35-40%.

Now let's get straight to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. A cast iron bath can be updated with an acrylic or epoxy resin. Installing a new cast iron bath will not give any advantage in quality and service life, and its dismantling and installation of a new bath is quite time consuming. For a tin bath, in the absence of enamel chips or other serious damage, an acrylic liner can be used. If the tin bath is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To update the bathroom, you do not need special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity, the latter being cheaper but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert on your own - it is made at the factory, where you will have to order it, the installation technology is as follows:

thoroughly clean and degrease the bath;
insert the insert and check the correct alignment of the drain holes;
recheck and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water supply from the cistern. If you are not going to move out for the duration of the repair, then it makes sense to run water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, the main thing is not to forget to turn off the water for a period of absence or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to do without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Proceed to dismantle everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Do not touch the sewer system at this stage yet, muffle the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power in the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces of the bathroom. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with a closed door or a film in the opening.

Work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a chisel for concrete. If cement mortar was used to fasten it, then you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working with the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then the puncher can damage it when cleaning the cement substrate, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there is reason to save the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of overhauling floors.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint, a drill with a 80-100 mm round metal brush is used. In old houses, the plaster is often fragile, this must be removed to the ground, whether it be brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum-fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. Work will increase, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it can come to collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed, old tiles removed. Time to mop the floors. After wet cleaning, you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of at least one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom. Of course, if the damage is small, then this can be avoided by using a self-leveling floor layer. But more on that later. First of all, consider the need to remove the old screed and proceed with the waterproofing of the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: it is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Ordinary film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, while Aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should be led to the wall at least a quarter meter (25 cm) based on weight. 4000 liters of water per 10 square meters is the ultimate strength of the floor. Folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Before doing such welding, practice, it's not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed with the installation of a new screed. When assessing the possible costs, the required material has already been called. This is a glass-magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to lay the reinforcing mesh and install beacons without delay. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage, the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. For screed there are special requirements for cement mortar:

brand of cement from the 400th; sand must be quartz;
sand and cement are related to each other in a ratio of 4: 1;
the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
to water you need to add PVA emulsion in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tiled floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with sewer pipes, as sealants with sealant are assembled quite quickly, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After that, you can proceed with peace of mind to soldering water pipes.

How to lay them? It’s not worth doing it in the open, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making strobes, if you don’t know the concept, is a groove in the wall laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, fittings cannot be violate, and she herself will not allow a strobe to be made. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, with the help of silicone on the completed slope, glue the facing tiles in the same color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be completed even after the work is completed. If necessary, silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without a strobe, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and there may also be a couple if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. Pipes should be foamed in the strobes, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. The process of installing polypropylene pipes is very simple, the main advantage is that after thirty minutes from the end of the welding of the last connection, you can use your piping system. uh

Remember, butt joints are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

For welding joints, you will need: a machine for socket welding of pipes made of polypropylene; nozzles for used pipes; pipe cutter; shaver, beveler. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It is worth laying it with a double-insulated wire tightened into a corrugation. The most commonly used is plastic, the price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall with construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut off. The bathroom is a cramped room, so we recommend using not a trowel, but half a rubber ball to apply plaster. It can be used for all kinds of work with alabaster, plaster or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work that way.

The plaster itself must necessarily be carried out along the lighthouses - a flat surface is required for subsequent wall cladding. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making lighthouses yourself is not worth it, you will only waste your time and hardly be able to achieve a flat surface. The plastering sequence is normal, to the floor from the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its fluctuations in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to comply with the temperature regime, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet, unlike the floor, it will be bonded to the LSU ceiling surface with silicone or mounting adhesive. At the time of work, use the slats as supports, somewhere around 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them until the glue has dried.

Having finished with the insulation, we move on to glossing, although this gloss carries a functional value like condensate. A good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant adhesive, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not cause collapse - since the boards are interconnected, forming a single integral structure. Upon completion of work with the ceiling, you will proceed to the wall cladding. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

processing the wrong side of the PVA material with an emulsion;
laying itself is carried out using mounting glue or construction silicone;
the crest of the tongue, it is understood as the protrusions due to which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such a connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be immediately removed.

For silicone, table vinegar is suitable, for glue, solvent. Please note - the last two boards of the laminate should be laid together, fold them into a house and insert, pressing the joint until it clicks into place. Do not forget about the props before the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. When finished with the ceiling sheathing, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options as well. But the independent production of stretch ceilings is often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do so, please review the selection criteria. A slatted ceiling is also possible - also a very common option, but its manufacture is the topic of a separate article.

For wall cladding, tiles are usually used. Porcelain stoneware has similar properties, but is more expensive, while the advantages that were mentioned when choosing floor tiles do not matter for walls. Covering the walls of the bathroom with plastic panels is spreading, it is quite cheap and meets the rules of hygiene, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on the walls, the cutting of the seams should be observed. For this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles on the glue and immediately removed, as described above. The application of glue is carried out with longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. There are no voids under the tiles, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you install should be tapped side by side with a rubber mallet from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will fall on the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond crown. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin plastic film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove the silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can also be covered with a decorative overlay due to the same silicone. On the plane, the cutting of the seams is carried out with a special composition, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is optional in this procedure - the streaks are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - irregularities that are not visible to the eye will appear inside the seam, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself, a small feature for the floor will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown with a larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure out the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

For the floor, there are two options for tiles - the reasons why porcelain stoneware is better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will cost more, but the result is more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove, the laying procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving an indent from the wall of 2-2.5 centimeters. This space is designed for the swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities, fill the gaps with polyurethane foam before installing the skirting board. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

For tiles, installation should be done from the door, so that the cut tiles are under the slope or in the bathroom, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has set under the other slabs so as not to knock down the work already done. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles fit together.

First of all, inspect the box, removed in preparation for repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It would be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows in winter. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system, this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often, for new products, you can even find instructions for the sequence of actions for its installation. Your actions include installing a bathtub (it will not be possible to carry it out on your own, without an assistant) or a shower cabin, as well as a sink. Then there are mixers, then a water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

In the bathroom, it is permissible to mount such stationary electrical appliances as an exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and a ceiling lamp that requires a waterproof design. A washing machine is a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary appliances.

All the necessary steps for making repairs in the bathroom with their own hands were dismantled. Watch the video, where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and about twice the laboriousness of repairing two separate rooms, this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is time consuming, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this time-consuming and rather long procedure to specialists. They definitely know how to do things right. But you should still be familiar with all aspects of a bathroom renovation, for a higher chance of completing the entire renovation process successfully and without complications.

At least after reading this article, you will be able to control the work of the performers to whom you decide to entrust the repair in the bathroom. On the other hand, if you are sure of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be significantly reduced. For a more successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.

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