All about mounting hl on glue. How to glue drywall on walls: instructions, material selection, recommendations. Preparation of the rough surface of the wall

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 7 minutes

A wonderful thing - drywall, comfortable, technologically advanced, now indispensable for interior decoration. But while many people attach the GKL in the old fashioned way - to the profile, although this is not the only way to fix it in the right place. It's about sticking sheets. The quality of fastening can be in no way inferior to that produced using a metal frame, but for this you need to follow the technology and choose the right glue for drywall.

Advantages of the adhesive method:

• ease of installation;
• time gain;
• saving money, which is the purchase and installation of the frame;
• increase in space - the crate would take 5–6 cm of space from each wall.

When adhesives are used for plasterboard

Cases when it is better to fix drywall sheets to surfaces with an adhesive method:

1. When leveling the main walls with the size of drops, blockages and other irregularities up to 50 mm. However, with extensive potholes, the cost of too much adhesive can exceed the cost of the metal frame and make the venture uneconomical.
2. When leveling the ceiling. But in this case, while the glue sets, the gypsum board must be securely fixed so that it does not collapse under its own weight. Solve the problem of dowel-screws.
3. When designing door and window slopes.

Glue can be used when fixing the second layer of drywall with a 2-layer sheathing of a frame or crate, but this is rarely practiced: using self-tapping screws in this case is faster and cheaper.

Glue for drywall: which one to choose?

• Specialized glue ("Perlfix" from the German company "Knauf", "Ceresit", Russian counterparts "Volma" and "Installation").

• Plaster or putty, which is based on gypsum. In terms of price, quality of adhesion to the surface to be glued, the degree of shrinkage during setting, there is practically no significant difference with specialized adhesives for working with gypsum boards.

• Acrylic putty. It is used when subsequent tiling is planned. The composition keeps the walls from mold, the harmful effects of fungi and high humidity. Drywall is attached to it on a base made of wood, shell rock, stone and foam blocks.

• Polyurethane mounting adhesive in an aerosol can. An ideal material for installing plasterboard and pasting joints with curved walls. With it, you can level the ceiling, attach ceramic tiles. To work with it, you need a special gun that provides economical consumption of the solution.

• Low expansion foam replaces adhesive.

• Tile adhesive. Its mobility and fine-grained filler make the work convenient and fast.

• Sealant. Any type of sealant replaces the adhesive intended for gypsum boards, in addition, it allows you to process joints, corners, close cracks, making them impervious to moisture.

• Liquid Nails. Strong, safe for health glue, but requires time to dry and is designed for a load of up to 15 kg. It is quite suitable for sticking not the thickest drywall.

Note! The mixture for fixing GKL from Knauf requires professional skills, work must be carried out without delay, as the glue quickly hardens.

How to glue drywall on brick, gas and foam concrete

With an uneven surface with wide seams, which distinguishes brickwork, foam and aerated concrete, it is convenient to stick drywall sheets with gypsum glue or any other gypsum mixture. In addition to the qualitative result, the advantage is economy: usually 5 kg of Perlfix is ​​consumed per 1 m², the price of which is 300 rubles. for a 30 kg bag.

Inexpensive polyurethane foam is comparable in terms of costs with gypsum glue. A 750 mm balloon with spot application is enough for 8–10 m², the cost of a square is 30–40 rubles. However, here, with a large gap between the plasterboard and the wall, solving the problem of foam expansion, each sheet will have to be additionally attached with dowel screws.

Foundation preparation

Prior to the direct gluing of drywall, the surface is primed, strobes are made for electrical wiring. When masonry, serious attention is paid to eliminating the cracks and irregularities inherent in it. For this, leveling putty mixtures are used. In some cases, strips of plasterboard and mounting tape can be glued to eliminate defects.

Foam and gas blocks usually do not create similar problems, however, there are damages due to careless transportation and unloading. They are eliminated with a plaster mixture.

What adhesives are required for concrete floors

Usually, monolithic walls do not have obvious irregularities; the GKL sticker on them goes smoothly and quickly. For this purpose, you can choose:

• gypsum glue for plasterboard sheets;
• gypsum putty;
• acrylic putties;
• cement adhesive for gluing tiles;
• polyurethane adhesive;
• mounting foam.

Each tool with a minimum adhesive line will ensure a strong connection between drywall and concrete.

Impeccable technical characteristics of the y - primer, which includes acrylic polymers, cement, quartz filler. Its peculiarity is special additives and additives that guarantee reliable contact with the most complex and dusty surface, which is what concrete usually sins with.

Suitable materials are foam, gypsum and cement adhesives, but the thickness of the joints when using them will be greater and cause an irrational reduction in room space.

Technology for mounting GKL on glue

After the optimal adhesive mixture has been selected, it's time to move on to the GKL installation. There are 3 :

Option number 1 (for flat walls)

It is used with walls without drops (usually these are concrete or plastered surfaces).

• The walls are strobed, the cable is fixed in the grooves obtained, holes are made for sockets and switches.
• Apply to a dust-free surface. If the wall is painted and the adhesive composition does not stick, the composition with quartz filler solves the problem.
• Holes for electrical equipment are cut out in the GKL.

The adhesive composition must be prepared for 1-2 sheets, especially at first, when there is no necessary skill.

• Gypsum-based glue is applied to the gypsum board with a notched trowel, the excess is removed. If another composition is used, such as polyurethane adhesive, it can be applied in stripes or as shown in the photo.

• The sheet is placed near the installation site face down.
• Before sticking, it is carefully lifted and the wires are directed into the prepared holes.
• The sheet is effortlessly applied to the wall, with the help of the rule, places are found where the material should be more tightly attached to the surface, this is achieved by tapping the sheet with your hand or applying a board and lightly hitting it with a mallet. You should not knock on the level - this is an accurate tool that will fail before the floors become even.

Option number 2 (irregularities up to 2 cm)

When the wall level differences approach 2 cm, drywall should be glued in a different way, although surface preparation and plasterboard, primer, and electrical cable laying do not differ from the previous version.

• The sheet is placed on linings at the place of attachment - the beginning, as a rule, is the most protruding section of the wall surface.

Glue dots are made along the perimeter of the sheet at a distance of 25 cm from each other, inside the perimeter they are placed every 40 cm. There should not be large gaps so that the reliability of fastening does not suffer. For the same reason, it is necessary to ensure that the height of the points is greater than the wall level differences.

• Gluing begins with the output of electrical wires and a light pressure of drywall, which should simply catch on the wall. It is better to work together, so that one master constantly holds and, if necessary, helps to press the sheet.
• The final fixing is preceded by a thorough check of the plane in all directions to determine where to press the material. When flaws are identified, individual sections are knocked out, the process continues until complete satisfaction with the result.

A special option when drywall is attached to a surface of gas or foam concrete. In this case, for reliable fixation, the adhesive composition is applied not to the sheet, but to the wall, although this method requires care - when installing the GKL, it can be easily skewed.

Option number 3 (differences of more than 2 cm)

Technology for surfaces with large irregularities:

• Remove fragile areas of plaster from the ceiling.
• The walls are carefully primed.
• Lighthouses are being prepared: strips of 100 mm wide are cut out of drywall, necessary to create a flat base. These elements are placed along the perimeter of the wall and vertically after 40–60 cm. They are fixed with glue, the layer of which is adjusted taking into account level differences.

• The main sheets of drywall are glued to the beacons after the final hardening of the adhesive on the strips. They are fastened with the help of the composition that was used to create the lighthouses. The adhesive mass is applied in lines along the width of the guides, after which the sheet is lifted and pressed against the beacons. If they are aligned correctly, installation will not be difficult.

Drywall is a building material that is most often used to level the surfaces of walls and ceilings, which after it remains flat and smooth, suitable for any type of finishing materials.

The structure of the drywall sheet: 1 - gypsum base, 2 - drywall plates.

Today, two methods of mounting this unique material are used: using a metal or wooden frame and a frameless method using glue.

The first method is considered more reliable and of high quality, but it also has some disadvantages, including an increase in cost due to the use of profiles, complexity, and a decrease in usable space, which is especially important for apartments with low ceilings. Mounting drywall on glue does not have such disadvantages; in this case, the sheets are laid directly on the surface. But there are also some nuances here, for example, such a surface must be pre-prepared for laying.

Drywall, or plasterboard sheets, can be mounted in bathrooms where the humidity is quite high. Installation is simple and quick, just put your hand and arm yourself with simple tools. For greater convenience, you can invite a couple of assistants. So it will be more fun, and the work will go faster.

Frameless mounting options

Frameless installation of gypsum boards can be carried out in two ways, in the first case it is installation on the wall surface with small differences, fluctuating in the range of 1-3 cm, and the second method is laying on special beacons. Let's look at these two methods in more detail.

Do-it-yourself sticking of drywall directly on the wall surface. This method is more complicated, it requires a certain skill and skills, but it does not differ in particular difficulties. The procedure is simple: first you need to clean the surface of traces of the old coating, apply markings where the GKL sheets will be located. After that, all the tools necessary for work are prepared, the sheets are cut and the adhesive solution is kneaded.

Glue is applied in small areas with a step of 15-20 cm (up to 30 cm is permissible), they should be located along the perimeter of the plate and in the center.

If the ceiling or wall is even, that is, the slab will fit snugly, then the number of areas treated with glue will not be needed so large.

Next, the GKL sheet is attached to the surface and neatly placed in place. Using the building level, it is necessary to determine the evenness of its installation. When mounting on the ceiling, it is more convenient to use a stepladder; you definitely cannot do without an assistant.

The second method is relatively simpler, it is used when the wall or ceiling has large irregularities that are more than 3-4 cm. It is best to use the frame method here, but if it is not possible for a number of reasons, then installation will be carried out by beacons. To do this, in increments of 60 cm, beacons from strips of plasterboard are installed on the ceiling or wall, which will determine the level of installation. They are attached to the adhesive solution, which should harden a little, after which you can proceed with the installation of the plates.

Such an installation of GKL along beacons resembles a wireframe method, as a result, free space remains under the sheets. The disadvantage of the method is the high consumption of glue, some of which goes to beacons, the need for constant monitoring of the evenness of the surface. If you have to mount the ceiling in this way, then it is best to immediately use the frame, since the cost in this case of both methods will be the same, and the frame is easier and faster to mount.

Back to index

Pros and cons of mounting on glue

Applying glue to drywall is done pointwise on all surfaces of drywall sheets

When laying with your own hands in this way, you can achieve savings, since you do not have to spend money on metal or wooden profiles, fasteners. There is also no need for pre-assembly of the frame, setting the verticality. It is enough to mark the wall, cut the sheets and mix the glue. There is another, decisive plus: such a wall is more reliable due to the fact that it does not have cavities, cracking at the joints is quite rare.

Using the adhesive method of laying drywall has not only advantages, but also disadvantages. The frameless method is good to use if the surface is relatively flat, but what to do when the ceiling is completely curved, which is not uncommon in apartment buildings?

In this case, only the use of beacons or preliminary alignment remains, and this is a large consumption of materials and rather laborious work, not everyone can do it with their own hands. The frameless adhesive method is good for relatively flat walls and ceilings. Of the minuses, it should be noted that conducting communications under the surface and additional insulation is much more difficult. For cables, you will have to ditch the walls, and the insulation will take up a certain place, and it is best to use foam, which not everyone prefers.

Back to index

General adhesive mounting technology

The technology of laying drywall without a frame, but only with glue, differs in some features. In this case, not only marking the surface of the wall or ceiling is required, but also preliminary alignment. The marking itself shows where and how the sheets will be located, usually it is a grid with lines that go in steps of 60 cm. The GKL gluing technology itself provides that large, solid slabs will be mounted, without first cutting them. But in practice, it usually turns out that not whole sheets are used (the length of which reaches 3 m), but parts cut into convenient pieces.

GKL installation is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that there is no intersection of the seams. The boards are glued to the surface with an adhesive that is applied around the perimeter and in the center of each sheet. But there is also one feature that must be taken into account. This is the speed at which the adhesive sets. Often for a beginner who makes such an installation with his own hands for the first time, this causes a lot of inconvenience, but everything is relatively easy to solve. The working time with a mass of glue is about half an hour, that is, do not knead a lot of the solution at once, it is better to do it gradually.

Before starting work, immediately mark the surface, cut all the sheets, prepare the tools (two spatulas, building level, etc.). After that, you can already begin to knead the glue in order to immediately get to work. The most optimal amount of glue is about half a bucket. In this case, you can safely and without haste stick a large sheet. If the composition is not enough, then you can always mix it up, which is better than throwing out a bucket of already unusable, hardened glue.

The technology for mixing the composition is usually the same, but for some manufacturers it may differ slightly. Therefore, it is best to read the instructions. The consistency should resemble very thick sour cream, if it turned out too thin or thick, you can always add water or a dry mixture.

Many today prefer to finish the interior with drywall. But at the same time, few people know that there is a drywall adhesive that can greatly simplify the task of installing it. About what types of adhesive solutions exist for this material and how to work with them, today's article will tell.

It is known that the most reliable fixation of drywall sheets is carried out using a metal profile. But at the same time, drywall glue can be different. Installation of drywall on glue will be quick if the solution was chosen correctly, and the quality of such fastening will be in no way inferior to the metal frame.

The advantages of this installation include:

• saving space;
• saving time and money that would go to installing the frame;
• simple and fast installation.

To date, GKL sheets can be attached to the following compositions:

• Knauf Perlfix (Knauf Perlfix);
• polyurethane elastic adhesive Polymin;
• gypsum mixture Volma;
• putty Fugenfüller;
• silicone sealant (for example, Bolars).

Let's consider each type separately.

Knauf Pearlfix is ​​​​the ideal solution for mounting drywall sheets on various surfaces. The features of Knauf Pearlfix include its high moisture resistance. Therefore, this adhesive is used when finishing bathrooms, kitchens, balconies and loggias. In addition, the composition of the Knauf Pearlfix mixture includes special additives - synthetic fibers. During operation, the solution is consumed sparingly. Knauf Pearlfix dries for about a week, but if the right conditions are created, its drying time can be reduced to 5 days. At the same time, Knauf Pearlfix glue is not elastic.

Polyurethane glue is sold in stores in cylinders. It is ideal for installing plasterboard sheets, as well as pasting seams with uneven walls. It can also be used to glue ceramic tiles or level the ceiling. To use such glue, a special gun is required, which ensures economical consumption of the solution.

Volm's gypsum mixture is the most plastic composition. Glue is used in a situation where it is necessary to install individual elements, which include gypsum. In addition, with the help of Volma's gypsum solution, it is possible to fix not only drywall sheets, but also foam plastic as a sound insulator or wall insulation. The composition of Volm makes it possible to easily handle the ceiling with your own hands, since it is able to take the form of any irregularities. Please note that Volma glue does not shrink after drying, while maintaining high resistance to various pathogenic microorganisms. Volma adhesive products can be used in finishing bathrooms and other residential areas with high humidity. The material consumption here is 5 kg per 1 mm layer when applying the solution to the entire wall area.

Fugenfüller putty is used if, after installing drywall on its surface, further installation of tiles is required. The putty itself is applied pointwise, which minimizes its consumption. This type of putty allows you to attach sheets of material to wood, shell rock, stone and foam blocks. The solution increases the protection of walls from the harmful effects of fungi and mold, as well as high humidity.

Silicone (tile) adhesive for drywall is similar in its characteristics to the polyurethane composition, but differs from it in consistency. They process cracks, corners and joints. The solution contributes to their impermeability. With the help of such a mixture, not only the installation of plasterboards is carried out, but also wallpapering, installation of plastic and tiles, as well as any finishing materials that are light in weight.

How to glue drywall on each of the solutions listed above, will tell the detailed instructions attached to each mixture.

Where to use

Before asking the question "how to glue drywall", you need to find out the scope of this or that adhesive. Contrary to popular belief about its specialization, drywall adhesive is not a narrowly focused tool. Such mixtures have a fairly wide scope. Typically, adhesives of this kind are used for the following purposes:

• installation of plasterboard;
• installation of mineral insulation, as well as gypsum combined panels;
• fastening of various products made of expanded polystyrene, as well as tongue-and-groove plates;
• ongoing work with decorative tiles, gypsum moldings and other gypsum products.

But in order to glue all this, you need to know how to glue drywall or any other material.

How to level a plasterboard wall with glue

Any specialist on the question "how to glue drywall" will answer that the key to success is the correct preparation of the walls. In such a situation, you can easily level the walls with adhesive.

Preparing the walls before starting the installation of GKL sheets involves the following steps:

• we remove all bumps and ledges from the walls;
• the surface is primed;
• after the first layer of primer dries, apply a second one for greater protection of the walls.

After that, you can proceed with the installation of GKL sheets. To do this, they are cut into pieces of the desired length.

Remember that when installing them, you must leave a small distance above and below. This gap will allow the glue to dry much faster.

Typically, the width of this gap is 0.5 cm at the top and 1 cm at the bottom. In this case, you need a special stand for drywall sheets so that they do not slip during drying.

Dowels can be used as limiters in this situation. For their installation, holes are drilled all over the surface of the walls. The screws should be screwed into them in such a way that their caps are all on the same level. When pressing sheets with glue to the wall, they will not allow them to sink deeper, bringing the wall to one level.

Glue is applied to the sheets from the back side in stripes along the edges and center, as well as in plentiful pieces. The step between adjacent pieces of glue should be about 20-30 cm. Remember that the applied adhesive solution does not need to be leveled. For greater convenience, it is allowed to apply glue to the walls, and not to drywall sheets.

If the walls are very curved, then you can first glue the intermediate layer of pieces of material.

How to cook

To prepare any adhesive for the installation of drywall sheets, you will need:

• dry mix;
• water;
• mixer with a special whisk attachment;
• mixing container.

The cooking process involves the following algorithm.

Greetings, dear visitors! Today we will learn the basics of leveling walls with drywall, namely the installation of drywall on glue. This option is an intermediate link between plaster and cladding on a metal frame, it allows you to level very curved and oblique surfaces, so to speak, with little blood.

That is, we will not spend extra money on tons of plaster mixture and stacks of metal profiles. This method will require from us a couple of bags of special mounting glue and a certain number of sheets of civil code.

In addition to serious cost savings, the process of mounting GKL on glue can also give a lot of positive emotions. For example, this process amuses me. Smeared - stuck, what could be more natural? This is not for you to fasten profiles to suspensions and not wave the rule. In general, everyone will master this method.

By the way, for many, including me at first, the very idea of ​​​​gluing drywall seemed ridiculous. But I hasten to dissuade you right away - this method is given in the information sheets of such plaster monsters as Knauf. And the same Knauf produces a special mounting adhesive for GKL - Perlfix (Perlfix). So everything is grown-up, everything is official. The collective farm did not smell here.

Advantages and disadvantages of this method

As already mentioned, the use of this method saves space and money for building materials. But, more importantly, it saves just a lot of time. Judge for yourself: there is no need to set up metal beacons; it is not necessary to repeatedly knead buckets of plaster mortar and hunchback, throwing it onto the walls; it is also not necessary to expose the frame from the profiles (and this is the marking of the plane, the installation of suspensions, the installation of the profiles themselves and their fastening to the suspensions). Smeared - stuck, that's all. In addition, in my humble opinion, such cladding is much less prone to cracks at the joints of sheets. Well, to top it off, I’ll also note that for gluing drywall to walls, you need a minimum of tools.

Gypsum glue

Alignment of walls with drywall is carried out using two types of adhesive mixtures. When deviations from the plane do not exceed 4 mm, Knauf Fugen is used (in ancient times it was called Fugenfüller putty). How exactly it is used will be discussed later.

But, you know, I wonder - why even out such minor differences with plaster? Yes, I’d better take it, buy a bag and plaster such a wall to a minimum! I will save an extra centimeter of space on this, and there will be no voids.

Fugen is also used in cases where the irregularities are in the range of 20-40mm. First, beacon strips of HA are glued onto Perlfix, and a sheet is already attached to them with the help of Fugenfüller.

For irregularities exceeding 4-20 mm, plasterboard leveling is carried out only with Perlfix. This is a dry mix, of course, on a gypsum basis. Packed in bags of 30 kg. In work, it is very similar to ordinary gypsum plaster, for example, Rotband. But there are still some differences in properties. Special additives are added to this mixture by the manufacturer to increase the adhesive ability. Perhaps because of them, perhaps for some other reason - the lifetime of the Perlfix solution is much less than that of the same Rotband.

On the one hand, this is a plus - the solution does not particularly slide down the wall. No need to wait before gluing the second sheet over the first. Yes, and do not need a long viability here. This is for plasters, it should be increased so that the person has time to apply the solution and level it. Here, everything is glued quickly. On the other hand, you need to know about this feature of Perlfix, otherwise you can throw the frozen half-bucket into the trash.

By the way, Fugen also does not live long, so do not try to knead a whole bucket - it will be hard to carry it to the trash later.

Installation with unevenness not more than 4 mm

Well, I consider this action superfluous, but since I started talking about it, I must describe all possible cases. Of course, 4 mm is an average figure, the difference can be somewhat larger, just putty will also take more. Before applying this method, you must first measure the walls, make sure that there are no significant bumps and depressions on them. If this is not done, a good final plane can no longer be expected.

In general, for all possible cases, it is necessary to prime the walls and the inside of the GKL. Facial - do not, it will lie on the floor. We dilute a little Fugen in water, of course, following the instructions. We take a notched trowel, the same as used when laying tiles. The teeth should be slightly larger than the thickness of the Fugen layer.

We spread the putty on the sheet with strips about 15 cm wide around the entire perimeter, and also make a couple of vertical strips closer to the middle. Then we pass along it with a notched trowel - we make the Fugen layer approximately the same and facilitate the subsequent process of leveling the sheet on the wall. You should get the following:

You can, of course, apply Fugen to the entire surface of the GKL, if you don’t mind, it will be generally cool. Now we just have to stick the sheet on the wall. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between it and the floor. This is to prevent moisture from the floor from rising onto the sheet. It can then be sealed with sealant, or you can leave it like that - it will still be closed with a plinth. To align it vertically, of course, a bubble level, a rubber mallet and a piece of plywood or a plank are used.

We lean the level (or rule) against the drywall. If we see a bump somewhere, lightly tap on it with a mallet through plywood so as not to roll the sheet. It is necessary to knock lightly and very carefully, because if you overdo it, you will get a cavity in this place, and this can no longer be fixed - then you will have to additionally putty.

Yes, I almost forgot: holes for sockets, pipe outlets and the rest must be cut BEFORE installing the GKL on glue, as for tiles. Drywall can be drilled with any drill or drill; holes for sockets are drilled with special crowns, other holes can be made with drill bits for wood. Well, large holes are made using a jigsaw.

If subsequently it is planned to hang some kind of cargo on the lined walls (pictures, for example, or hangers), there should be putty at the intended place of their installation under the plasterboard. This must also be taken into account in advance.

Fugen seizes very quickly - in an hour the sheet will hang already rigidly. When tapped, the surface lined in this way can be found inside the void. It's ok, what do you want? There will be voids in any case, we do not smear the entire surface.

Leveling with unevenness no more than 20 mm

An example for us is a small porch-entrance hall in a country house. For some reason, the customer did not want to ditch the walls for the electrics and decided to simply plaster the wires that ran over the walls. The layer, of course, was epic - under 6 cm, because there was still “not ice” masonry.

At first, we, nevertheless, thought to plaster this matter, we even put up beacons. But they quickly realized that this occupation is extremely unpromising. Both in terms of the ratio of payment to labor intensity, and in terms of material costs. In fact, we didn’t even have Perlfix, let alone Fugen, so we used Rothband as glue. I understand that now all subscribers will unsubscribe from me, my site will be deleted from bookmarks, and angry letters like “Roman, what are you, we thought you were a serious master, but in fact you are a collective farmer here ...”

Eh, if you knew that sometimes you have to fence when there is no necessary material, or when you are running out of time. For example, instead of Betokontakt, I had to mix sand, cement and primer a couple of times ... And nothing, everything is holding on. So here, rather than waiting a week for the right material, it is better to find a replacement for it. Rotband is quite suitable for this purpose. Here, by the way, the layer is not 20 mm, but all 60, but in order to save time (and time is money), I built an absurd-looking (although stylish for me), but effective combo - instead of lighthouse strips relying on such layers I made point beacons from the Civil Code.

We take a small sheet of drywall, no matter how thick. And primed it on both sides, after which we give a few minutes to dry. I took it outside, you can open the window and put it on the windowsill, or you can do nothing - it will dry out sooner or later anyway.

We chop it with a sharp clerical knife into small squares with sides of 5-7 cm. These will be our lighthouses. Now it is already possible to knead the glue, we make the consistency medium - so that it does not slide down, but it is easy to work with. And we spank "buns" over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall, which will be lined with one GKL. It is convenient to put these buns in increments of about 40 cm. And the accuracy will be good, and you can set them up pretty quickly.

The main requirement is that their horizontal and vertical rows should be in one line, so that it is easy to check the plane later with a rule. It will look something like this:

Now we sculpt chopped pieces of drywall on each such bun:

It was very convenient for me here - there was a ready-made plane and a lighthouse. It only remained to press each beacon with the rule, and the trick was in the bag. You may have to set them in two stages - first the 4 extreme ones (it's better to use self-tapping screws for them - it's faster), and then the rest along them. That is, you have to improvise. I will describe my case, and you will adapt all this information for yours.

So, you can guess that I didn’t just need to press the GK beacons with the rule, but drown them inward by the thickness of the gypsum sheet. Therefore, I prepared a small template from wall drywall in advance. I inserted it between the GK beacon and the rule and pressed:

Moreover, my template was long and allowed me to put 3 small lighthouses in a plane at once. In about 30 minutes I put them all on an area of ​​4.5 sq.m. Of course, I later checked all of them, tore out the extra steel beacon profile:

In less than an hour, sheets can be glued to the wall. It is absolutely not necessary to take whole GCRs, it will be very difficult. Judge for yourself - a sheet of wall moisture-resistant drywall (2500 × 1200x12.5) has a mass of 29 kg, in addition, it is inconvenient for its size. Plus, a mass of mounting glue is added to this mass, and this can be a whole bucket. So it's easier to cut sheets in half, believe me.

So, we are preparing the glue again, this time more. Be sure to first smear it with solid stripes at the corners: between the walls, between the wall and the floor, between the floor and the ceiling. This reduces the risk of cracks and damage to the sheets during further installation of skirting boards, for example. The sheet itself, of course, is primed:

I repeat, first we smear all the corners, after which we put solid buns on the sheet itself. The main requirements: the thickness of the buns should be slightly larger than the calculated thickness of the cladding, and they themselves should not fall on our beacons. That is, there should be no solution between the sheet and the lighthouse squares. Otherwise, we will violate the plane.

You will probably ask: why not apply glue directly to the wall, it is also much easier? I don't have a definitive answer, just a guess. When applying glue to a wall, for some reason it is more difficult (not much) to tamp the sheet into the plane than if the glue was applied to the sheet. Also, perhaps the drywall will adhere to it more firmly. Knauf manuals recommend smearing drywall with Perlfix, not walls. By the way, the link to these manuals will be at the end of the post. There are good pictures.

In general, we applied mounting glue to the sheet, now we lean it against the wall. It remains to set it to the level and plane. All those tools are used for this: a level, a mallet and a plank. GKL should be knocked out only in those places under which beacons are located. If you hit anywhere, it's very easy to get a cavity that can no longer be corrected.

You will feel the moment when the sheet touches the GK beacon by a characteristic sound. As soon as you tap the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheet in this way, it will have to form a good plane and stand strictly vertically.

Now I will recommend to throw glue on top under the gypsum, as much as you like.

Again - less risk of a crack in the seam, and fewer voids. The rest of the sheets are mounted in the same way. Do not forget to slaughter the non-factory edge of the sheets at 22.5 degrees. If you don’t understand what I’m talking about, be sure to read my article “Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling”, the technology for processing plasterboard seams is well described there.

Now they say that serpyanka (reinforcing mesh for seams) is already the last century, now paper tape is in trend. Yes, the effectiveness of the sickle has always been a big question, but I have not used the tape yet, to my shame. But knowledgeable people say that it is really more convenient and effective in protecting against cracks. I will test it as soon as possible. By the way, here is what our wall looked like immediately after facing:

We reinforce and putty all the seams:

Everything is ready. Let us now consider the most difficult case.

Leveling with unevenness 20-40 mm

The basic principle of facing is the same - GK-machki are installed, but now they should not be dotted, but should be stripes. Beacons must be present along the edges of the sheet, and the joints of the plasterboard must be located in the middle of the strip (similar to a metal frame). In addition to them, you need to make two more intermediate strips for each sheet.

Lighthouse strips are glued to the rough surface on Perlfix, and the GKL itself to them is glued to Fugen, because this only requires a minimal layer of glue. The main headache here, of course, is the installation of many strips in one plane. Alternatively, I can offer a step-by-step installation.

First, self-tapping screws are screwed into the wall and set into a vertical base plane using a laser or a plumb line. On this topic, I have an article in the heading "Plaster". Intermediate HA strips are installed along them, and after they have been set, all the rest are placed using the rule.

If you plan to hang some equipment on the wall (sconces, paintings), then an additional beacon strip must be provided for it. I think it's obvious. In general, no one really uses this method of aligning with glue, limiting themselves to the second. If only because there is no need to buy Fugen. Yes, and it is more reliable to stick the sheet directly to the wall, and not to another sheet.

There is also a situation when there is an external corner in the room. How can we be with him? Nothing supernatural - first the sheets are glued to one side of the corner, and then to the other. No 45 degree cuts! It is only necessary to align the end of the first sheet of the second face flush with the plane of the first face. Then a metal protective corner will be pushed onto the corner, and everything will become beautiful.

Well, with internal corners, I think, no questions should arise.

The installation method, in which a drywall sheet is attached to a vertical surface with glue, has a number of undeniable advantages. It allows you to simultaneously glue the material and level the walls, protect the coatings on the reverse side from the effects of aggressive environments and the harmful effects of microorganisms, thanks to the ease of installation technology, the budget and personal time are saved.

Installing drywall with glue saves space in the room, which, if the frame was installed, would be 5-6 cm less on the side of each wall. To make a quality installation, you will need:

• decide on the choice of glue;
• prepare the surface;
• follow the installation instructions.

GKL sheet gluing process

To install a sheet of drywall on a wall using an adhesive method, use the products of two reputable manufacturers: Knauf (Perlfix series, Germany) or Volma (Montage series, Russia). The use of a domestic brand is preferable for the following reasons:

• the cost is lower;
• the consumption of the mixture for applying a layer with a thickness of 1 mm and an area of ​​1 m² per sickle is only 2-3 kg, compared to 5 kg of the Knauf brand;
• the period of complete drying for the Volma glue is 24 hours, for the Knauf mixture it reaches 7 days;
• strong adhesion to the surface due to the content of gypsum fibers in the composition;
• the setting time of the mixture on a flat surface is 1 hour, for Perlfix this threshold occurs 30 minutes after kneading, if the mixture is applied to a sickle tape, the setting period is even less (40 and 15 minutes, respectively);
• easily takes the form of irregularities, after solidification does not shrink.

For do-it-yourself installation, it is preferable to use Volma glue. For a beginner, the form of packaging of the material is also convenient - 5, 15 and 30 kg. This allows you to easily calculate the material, save on costs, determine the scope of work for yourself in advance and have a certain period of time left before the mixture has time to set. The Knauf adhesive mixture is designed for a professional approach. Packing form - 30 kg.

To glue a sheet of drywall to a wall with a Knauf mixture, you will need professional skills to work at a fast pace. Packing form Perlfix - 30 kg. The optimum temperature for the mass to acquire its properties is +5 degrees in conditions of normal humidity.

Packaging form for Volma glue Installation

Surface preparation

Before you start gluing a drywall sheet on Volma glue, a surface is prepared for it. To do this, using a level or a stretched cord, a series of measurements are made that reveal irregularities at the base of the walls. If the deviations do not exceed 2 cm, proceed to the following steps:

• clean the walls from old finishes (wallpaper, paint, plaster), dust and other contaminants;
• the surface is covered with two layers of primer, which increases the level of adhesion of the material from which the vertical ceilings are made (brick, concrete, wood) with glue;
• if the deviations in curvature are a little more than 2 cm, a layer of plaster is applied to the wall, this will smooth out irregularities, which will then be filled with glue;
• then they calculate the layout of the drywall sheets so that after installation they do not touch the floor at a distance of 10-15 mm (this space is required for the climatic adaptation of the material);

On the draft wall, you can install a crate or glue a sickle tape, which will allow the glue to adhere to the wall even more firmly.

Applying plaster over serpyanka

Glue mounting

As tools for gluing a GKL sheet with your own hands, you will need:

• bucket or basin for kneading;
• drill or mixer;
• building level;
• trowel and spatula for applying glue;
• hammer with a wide board.

Installation steps:

• dilute the glue in a bucket of water in the proportions indicated on the Volm package;
• the calculation of the mass of the mixture is made depending on the amount of work performed and on the curvature of the walls, on average it is 10-12 liters, so that it does not have time to grab;
• apply the adhesive mixture on the wall or on the drywall sheet itself, evenly distributing it over the surface with small dots in a checkerboard pattern in 40 cm increments or in stripes 15 cm wide. Such an application will allow you to adjust the location of the plasterboard relative to the vertical and horizontal plane;
• it is recommended to glue the gypsum canvas from the corner of the room, for this it is gently pressed against the wall and leveled;
• if the level shows that the sheet lay unevenly, by tapping with a hammer on a wooden board, the glue applied on the reverse side is more evenly distributed, reducing the voids formed.

Distribution of glue on the surface of the GKL sheet and its correct consistency

After the installation is completed, a sickle tape is glued to the joints between the sheets of drywall for additional reinforcement of the seams. The gaps between the joints are filled with Volma glue or a special putty. Each seam is carefully processed so that subsequently moisture does not get between the joints and does not destroy the structure of the gypsum boards.

After the mass has dried, the sickle is treated with grouting emery to remove excess glue, the primer is applied again and after it dries, the surface of the drywall is puttied. All stages of the installation of GKL with an adhesive method are shown in the video below.

On a note

Remember, if the unevenness reaches 10 cm, it is not allowed to glue drywall on the Volm mixture, because the end result will not be of high quality: the sheet will not be able to adhere tightly to the surface, the adhesion strength will be impaired. And the consumption of glue will be unreasonably large.

Proper wall measurements before gluing GKL - the basis of high-quality installation

In such cases, it is recommended to perform a standard installation of a metal or wooden frame. This installation method will additionally insulate plasterboard walls, hide cables and pipes. When using the adhesive method, it is not possible to carry out such work or great efforts are required to drill special grooves for electrical wiring.

In contact with