How to lay laminate in the apartment. What is the laminate on? Installation instructions. Proper coating technology

In this article, we will tell you in detail how to lay laminate flooring with detailed photo instructions. Having seen the laying process with your own eyes, you can easily complete this work.

Preparing the foundation

So let's start, first of all, check how even the base is (if the base is not even, then voids form under the laminate, and when you press it, it will bend and creak, and eventually break through).

If there is an old wooden floor or concrete is simply poured, then the first step is to make sure that its surface is even. To do this, we use the usual building level. Permissible differences (pits) of 1-3 mm. over a length of 2 meters.

The wooden floor is easy to fix by making a dry screed -1 cement 3 sand, mix (WITHOUT WATER), pour a thin layer on the wooden floor and level with the rule.

On top of the stele, we glue and twist the YUSB plywood.

Or tamp with a special rammer for a semi-dry screed (for this, when preparing the mortar, you will need to add 10-20% of water and knead in a concrete mixer to obtain a wet cement-sand mortar.

If your concrete floor is simply flooded, then you need to set up beacons and make a finishing screed.

Substrate for laminate

We lay the substrate on the finished base (usually foamed polyethylene or cork is used). After laying, we glue them with adhesive tape so that when installing the laminate, the substrate does not move apart.

Starting to install laminate

On top of the prepared base, the first row of panels should be laid (starting from the corner). We take a piece of laminate and cut into squares 5x5 cm, they will serve as spacers, since it is impossible to put a laminate butt against the wall.

How to properly connect the laminate video:

Docking of panels is carried out end to end, while the gap in relation to the wall should be controlled.

Be sure to remember that laying laminate over a wooden floor is done at an angle of 90 ° to the boards!

When laying the next row, it is necessary to ensure that the end seams between the panels in the second row and the end seams in the first row do not match, so that the laminate locks do not break during operation.

To perform the steps described above, you can use the panel fragment left over from trimming the first row. If its length is more than 20 cm, then use to start a new row.

However, if you want to achieve the most accurate and aesthetic offset possible, then you will have to trim the new panel by approximately one-third (this principle is called “one-third board offset”).

The assembly of the second row is carried out in the same way as the first.

When joining the rows, it may be necessary to knock out the locks with a hammer and a special safety bar (any wooden block or a piece of laminate, insert the lamellas into the lock and knock them out).

When the second row is completed, by analogy, assemble the entire coating, while simultaneously monitoring the correct installation and observing the gaps from the laminate panels to the walls (5-10mm).

The last row of panels, most likely, will have to be sawn along the laminate panel, the photo shows how to mark the last row of laminate panels, put the laminate on the penultimate ripple and mark as shown below.

Try to perform these steps with care, however, you should not give too much importance to this, since the cut line will be hidden by the plinth.

After laying the flooring, remove the wedges that separated the laminate from the wall and install the skirting boards.

How to lay laminate flooring on wood floor video

The wooden floor under the laminate can be leveled with plywood. How this is done is shown in the video below.

That's all! If you use the useful recommendations given in this material, then when asked “how to lay a laminate on a wooden floor?” you will feel confident, and will not fall into a stupor.

Video: How to lay a laminate correctly: mistakes and basic rules

In addition, after you have read the above, you are quite capable of laying laminate on a wooden floor on your own!

Many people choose laminate flooring.

This is due to the fact that the coating has a number of significant advantages: resistance to household chemicals, high resistance to abrasion, ease of installation, high hygiene.

Due to this popularity, many questions arise about how to properly lay the laminate. This article will reveal the secrets of proper styling technology.

General laying rules

It is possible to lay the laminate correctly only if the surface is perfectly flat or close to it.. The floor height difference should not exceed 2 mm.

We indicate only the most basic points and nuances that are in each case.
Laying boards on carpet is not recommended due to the effect of "static discharge".

The concrete base must be dry, the humidity must not exceed 2.5%. Not recommended for underfloor heating, because sudden heating has a bad effect on the joints of the sections and the plates themselves.

Laminate flooring can be laid both on tiles and on linoleum, the main thing is that the base is even, clean and reliable.

If you do not make the necessary technological gaps, the boards may "swell". Do not forget to leave the plates for a couple of days in the acclimatization room before starting work.

Necessary tools and materials

So, you have an almost perfectly flat floor. But for the correct laying of the laminate, certain tools are needed, which cannot be dispensed with. Here is a classic set:

• electric jigsaw (for cutting sheets at the right angles);
• building level (to check the quality of laying);
• tape measure 5 meters;
• a hammer;
• construction knife;
• laying set (it includes wedges and a tamping block).

The last item is optional, you can use the clippings that you, one way or another, will have in the process. From consumables:

• the laminate itself;
• plinth;
• sills;
• polyethylene film;
• screeds;
• substrate;
• masking tape;
• waterproof putty.

Getting Started with Laminate Laying: Working with the Underlay

The base is dry and you can start spreading the substrate. The process itself is very simple - the base is covered with a waterproofing film, and a substrate is placed on it. The sheets of the substrate must be butt-to-butt. Then they are sealed with masking tape..

The adhesive tape holds the sheets of the substrate and does not allow them to move when laying. However, take the process very seriously.

Proper laying of laminate necessarily involves the use of a substrate. Otherwise, none of the manufacturers gives any guarantees.

The substrate allows you to compensate for the load on the plates, thereby maintaining the strength of the joints. A few words about the types of substrates:

• Polyethylene foam pad. The most important quality of this substrate is its price, it is the lowest. For all other criteria, it is inferior to competitors.
• Foil lining. The same polyethylene foam, covered with a special layer. Used for underfloor heating, due to good thermal insulation.
• Styrofoam underlay. Good strength properties. Moderate price.
• Cork lining. Very good thermal insulation and strength characteristics. The main disadvantage is the high price.
• Coniferous lining. The material is very breathable. In addition, the material is environmentally friendly in its characteristics, but there is also a drawback - a high price.

Proper styling technology

For laying laminate flooring, either a wooden block or block is used.

Standard laying starts from the far wall from the left corner along the direction of the light.

There are two locking connection options (“Click” and “Lock”) and one adhesive connection option.

Laying process with "Click"-locks

The standard system for proper laying of laminate flooring starts from the far wall at the left corner along the direction of the light. Before that, measure the width of the room. We calculate the width of the last row of slabs that will be laid out along the wall.

If the width is less than 5 cm, it is necessary to cut the boards of the first and last rows to the desired size. Don't forget about the gap along the wall.

We put the first plate in the left corner of the wall, then the next panel is inserted into it from the end side, we snap it in, do everything at an angle of 30 degrees so as not to damage the connection.

In this way, we continue laying to the end of the wall. We shift the end grooves of the next row of plates by 30-40 cm for uniform pressure distribution.

Alternatively, the second and subsequent rows can be laid by connecting the long sides of the panels.

The end parts are connected by knocking the panel with a hammer. But this method is more inconvenient, and even dangerous in that connections can be damaged.

Be very careful not to damage the panels or the wall!

For more information about the options for the correct laying of laminate can be found in the article Laying laminate and the cost of work.

The installation process of the coating with "Lock"-locks

The process is almost completely the same as with "Click" locks.

The standard system of work starts from the far wall from the left corner along the direction of the light. We connect the end side of the first panel with the second panel, inserting the spike into the groove and knocking it out with a hammer.

Do not forget that for knocking the ends you need to use a bar or block. We continue to the end of the row.

We shift the end grooves of the second row of plates by 30-40 cm for uniform pressure distribution. The connection is the same as in the first row.

Adhesive bonding

Adhesive laminate panels cannot be dismantled later. This is one of the disadvantages of this type of attachment.

In addition, the adhesive version is categorically not recommended for use with any type of underfloor heating.

Strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions, do not apply an excessive amount of glue.

Everything has been calculated for us.

The panel of the first row, number one, is laid with a groove against the wall, apply glue to the upper edge of the end groove of the second panel and insert it into the groove.

We hit with a hammer. And so on until the row is completely laid.

When adjusting the panels, in no case should you hit the planks directly with a hammer.

To offset the end seams of the second row, you need to cut the first panel in the row.

The last row is the most laborious, you can use a crowbar to connect and trim the rows.

1. Protect the coating from water, especially hot water. Even the highest quality boards deteriorate when water gets on them.
2. Storage of boards in a vertical position is contraindicated. They are deformed, and the assembly process can turn into hard labor, and in case of long-term improper storage, the plates can simply become unusable.
3. For underfloor heating, it is recommended to choose a different coating option. But if you decide to use laminate, you should know that the floor temperature should not exceed 28 degrees.

Conclusion

After reading all the articles on this topic, you, of course, will not become a master in the correct laying of a laminate, but you can quite put it at home.

The main thing - follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply the information that you gleaned from the articles. Happy styling!

Video

More clearly with instructions on how to properly lay the laminate, you can see by watching the video.

One of the most popular flooring materials is the so-called laminate. It is a multi-layer coating resembling particle board with a very strong outer protective coating. The idea of ​​manufacturing laminate panels and using them for flooring was born in the 70-80s in the West and very quickly spread throughout the world. Now this type of flooring is as popular as parquet, ceramic floor tiles. One of the advantages of the material is possibility of self-installation. Now we will decide what tools will be needed, how to choose the material and where to start laying the laminate.

Varieties and marking of laminate

Modern types of laminate, presented in the markets of Russia and the countries of the former CIS, have a thickness of 7 to 12 mm, a length of 1.2 - 2 m and a width of 180-190 mm. The main indicator for him is the abrasion class - it can be AC-3, AC-4, AC-5, AC-6. Previously, these classes were 31, 32, 33, 34, while AC-5 corresponds to class 33. It is better to choose the most wear-resistant laminate: class AC-4, AC-5 is quite suitable for a house.

All modern laminate flooring is equipped with Click or G5 locks or their modifications. The G5 lock is one of the most modern locks and is loved by all specialists. Inside the lock is a fixing plastic bar. It snaps into place when the tenon enters the groove, requiring little force. There is a laminate with chamfers and without them. The outer face of the flooring has a very wide range of decorative patterns that are under the protective top layer.

Tools and materials

When performing flooring work, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools, it will also come in handy in the future when repairing or installing ceilings, walls or floors. The required tool kit should contain:

• tape measure and pencil;
• building level at least 1.5 m long;
• electric jigsaw with a set of blades or a circular saw;
• electric drill;
• perforator;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• grinder with a nozzle for grinding a concrete base;
• feather drills;
• knife with spare blades;
• square;
• a hammer;
• special bracket for tightening panels;
• hacksaw for metal.

No special tool is required, and every craftsman who performs various construction work or repairs has a similar set. With a large-scale performance of laying flooring, they resort to the use of a trimming machine.

Materials required for laying laminate flooring, the number of which must be calculated and purchased in advance:

• vapor barrier film 0.2 mm thick;
• substrate;
• construction tape, adhesive tape;
• laminate panels are purchased according to the size of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room with a margin of at least 5%;
• expansion wedges;
• plinth fasteners;
• plinth around the perimeter of the room;
• additional elements for plinth: internal and external corners and plugs.

If the area of ​​​​the room is large, it must be separated by expansion joints. For this, there are special flashing strips that are matched to the tone of the main laminate.

Surface preparation before laying

You can lay laminate flooring on concrete floors, cement screed, wood floors, ceramic tiles and any other flat, durable, dry floor. A very important requirement for the base is its smooth and even surface, deviations from the horizontal must not exceed 2 mm per running meter. For this purpose, use the usual building level and measure the entire room in different directions. If deviations greater than this value are found, they must be corrected. When used as a base for a cement screed or concrete floor for their leveling, they can be additionally covered with a thin layer of the so-called self-leveling floor.

The deviation of the surface from the horizontal with proper filling will be no more than 1-2 mm per two linear meters of length. If for various reasons this is difficult to do, you can try to grind the bulges.

The surface before laying must be clean and dry, the humidity of the base is allowed within 40-65%. The optimum temperature for laying should be between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius. Therefore, before you start laying the laminate, the lamellas must be kept indoors for at least 48 hours in order for acclimatization to occur. During this time, all preparatory work is carried out to level the base of the floor, cleaning and marking. It is worth recalling that it is necessary to buy a laminate in an amount that is 5% larger than the floor area.

On video: underlayment and laminate laying technology.

Proper coating technology

There are generally accepted rules for laying flooring panels, in particular, The layout of the slats is made along the rays coming from the window. That is, the long side of the bar should be perpendicular to the window. Therefore, the answer to the question of where to start laying the laminate is simple: along any wall perpendicular to the window. In this case, the seams between the panels are less visible. Laying laminate diagonally across the room, although technically feasible, is not used due to the large amount of waste, and the seams with this layout will be more noticeable than with the traditional one.

After laying the first row, the second row is shifted by 1/2 or 1/3 of the length of the laminate plank. This is done to more firmly connect the laminate into one common array. A method can also be used when the second row starts with trimming from the previous row - in this case, the minimum amount of waste is obtained. Usually, the calculation of the laying scheme of the laminate is performed.

Before starting work, a vapor barrier film with an overlap of 150 mm should be laid on the surface of the base and glued with adhesive tape. The film is laid in such a way that it goes onto the walls, where it is subsequently pressed with a plinth. Then it is necessary to lay a layer of the substrate with a thickness of 2 mm - usually it is rolled polyurethane. There is also a more expensive cork underlay, it is often used in offices, as well as when laying parquet.

The next step is the laying of laminate boards. Before laying begins, the entire laminate should be reviewed to ensure that all locks are intact and clean. It is also necessary to calculate the laying of the laminate and find out the width of the last row of boards. This width must not be less than 50 mm.

You can start from any wall perpendicular to the window. The first row of laminate is laid along the wall, the planks are connected with end locks. At the same time, a gap of 10 mm is left between the laths of the laminate and the walls, which is provided with the help of spacer wedges. There are several ways to connect second row laminate planks. You can install each bar separately, as indicated in the instructions. But it is better if, first, the planks of the second row are connected to each other using end locks. Then the entire second lane is joined to the first, sometimes an assistant is required for this.

Nuances and subtleties when laying laminate

With high-quality preparation of the base and proper laying of the laminate, such a floor covering can last a very long time - up to 20 years.. At the same time, it is important to observe the humidity regime and arrange a vapor barrier, since this material is very sensitive to moisture. It is not used in bathrooms. It is also necessary to fulfill the temperature gaps near the walls, door frames. Laminate flooring is a type of floating floor. With changes in humidity and temperature of the slab, the entire coating expands and if sufficient gaps are not made, swelling may occur.

When installing laminate flooring in several adjacent rooms, it is worth dividing the array and not making it continuous in all rooms. It is better to separate it at the border of interior doors using a special threshold. In this case, it is easier to make repairs if the laminate suddenly swells in one of the rooms.

When laying laminate flooring in the hallway, the following rule must be used: lay the panels with the long side in the direction of the predominant movement, that is, from the front door.

Conclusion

When performing work on laying flooring, you must strictly follow simple rules. Also, the durability of such a coating depends on the quality of the laminate boards. Therefore, you should not save on material, but buy flooring only from proven world leaders, since such savings can turn into big problems. Technologically, laying laminate flooring is not very difficult, and therefore this work can be done by anyone with a tool and certain skills. If it is difficult to do the work yourself, you can turn to specialists who will help you choose and lay a laminate.

Laminate laying secrets (2 videos)

Among the wide selection of modern flooring, laminate firmly holds its position in popularity. This relatively inexpensive type of flooring has a number of undeniable advantages. In addition to the abundance of colors and textures, this material, subject to the rules of installation and operation, is durable, looks great and does not require special care measures. Laying it is very simple, just follow the instructions and follow the recommendations for working with laminate correctly.

Basic requirements for laying laminate flooring

The laminate panel is a multi-layer structure, equipped with a special locking device on all four sides. With it, the floating system of this flooring is firmly connected into a single whole. There are several fundamental conditions, non-compliance with which can lead to rapid damage to the coating, the appearance of squeaks and cracks.

• The base for the laminate should not have level differences of more than 2 mm at a distance of 2 sq.m. That is, a hole or a hump in such an area will lead to damage to the locks and, accordingly, to the destruction of the entire coating.
• On the same 2 sq.m. there should not be a uniform deviation from the horizontal level of more than 4 mm. Furniture in such areas will not have stability, cabinet doors will warp.
• When laying a laminate, it is imperative to lay a substrate. Choose its thickness according to the thickness of the panel. So for a 9 mm laminate, the thickness of the substrate must be at least 3 mm.
• In addition to a special substrate, when laying a laminate on a concrete screed, it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier (or polyethylene). This is necessary so that the concrete base does not transfer the laminate made from pressed woodworking waste (or impregnated paper).

Next, consider the order of work on laying the laminate in more detail. What tools are needed? What are the features of laying on different bases? How to make heating under this floor covering? And also consider some additional aspects of working with this material.

Where to begin?

The first task that must be solved before proceeding with the installation of the laminate is the alignment of the base. However, there are several ways to resolve this issue.

1. Concrete floor

Preparing a concrete base with your own hands consists of three stages:

• The rough concrete base should be checked for strength and compliance with the necessary requirements for the plane. For this purpose, the master will need a large building level (more than 1.5 m). With this tool it is very convenient to identify all surface irregularities.
• Irregularities, cracks, chips and other defects in the concrete screed are leveled with mortar. When the leveled base or new cement floor hardens, it is recommended to cover its surface with a finishing layer of screed or sand it.
• In order for accidentally exfoliated particles not to creak under the laminate boards, the concrete floor must be treated with a primer mixture. It will fasten the upper layers, and the floor will not "dust".

To level the floor over the screed, it is convenient to use gypsum-fiber sheets. Additionally, they will serve as heat and sound insulation.

2. Wooden floor

Laying laminate on a wooden floor does not differ significantly from laying on a concrete screed.

• Damaged parts must be replaced.
• The next step is to check the level and evenness of the floor. If there are large defects, they must be corrected. A great way to level an old plank floor is to lay plywood or OSB sheets on top.

It is important to remember that the sheets must be laid with small expansion gaps (up to 3 mm), and the heads of self-tapping screws or nails must be well drowned.

• The fixed plywood (or OSB) should not “walk” much underfoot, otherwise the floor will begin to creak over time. The fastening step along the perimeter should not exceed 10 - 15 cm.
• Irregularities at the joints must be cleaned with a grinder and carefully remove chips and dust.

Experienced builders recommend treating the wooden base (both old and new) with antiseptic agents before laying the laminate. This will help prevent fungal growth or damage to the wood base by wood-biting insects.

Laminate is an almost universal coating. It can be laid anywhere in the house or apartment, as well as on any basis. Even on tiles or old linoleum. However, do not forget about checking the evenness of the surface and cleaning the old coating. Having given the base the necessary quality, we prepare materials and tools for laying laminate.

Buying a laminate

Having decided to cover the floors with laminate, you need to responsibly approach his choice. When buying, you should pay special attention to wear resistance, coating strength (scratch resistance), and moisture. Price, country of origin and design, of course, are also important. Floor boards should last more than one year, so their quality should be as close as possible to the characteristics of the room, including from a visual point of view.

1. How to determine the purpose of the laminate class?

There are two main categories of laminate: "20"-ki and "30"-ki. The former are intended for use in residential premises with a relatively small technical load. The second - for commercial or public premises with high traffic and complex operational features.

In turn, each of these categories is divided into three classes:

• 21 - has the weakest characteristics, as it is designed for dry, little passable rooms such as a bedroom or living room. A large amount of moisture can be detrimental to such a laminate.
• 22 and 23, respectively, have higher moisture and wear resistance characteristics. 23 can be used in the kitchen or hallway.

The maximum warranty for this category does not exceed six years. Due to its rather low technical characteristics, having a lower cost, such a laminate is becoming less and less popular.

• 31 - 32 can be used in office space;
• 33 -34 are the hardiest classes that will last more than 10 - 20 years, are resistant to moisture and mechanical damage.

It is worth remembering that the thicker the board and the lower the level of moisture resistance (up to 20%), the longer it will last, and the less trouble this flooring will bring to the owners.

2. Buying a substrate for laminate flooring

The laminate is laid using the floating floor technology. This means that in no place is it firmly attached to the base. To make this flooring last for a long time, it is not enough to choose a high-quality material. In addition to the laminate, you must select the appropriate substrate. It will not only become additional heat and sound insulation, but will smooth out small irregularities and roughness of the base, soften the sound of steps.

The choice of substrates is quite diverse. It is worth proceeding from the need to apply one or another type. For even bases, 2 mm thickness will be enough, but it is better to use a thicker one. There are several types of substrate:

• Polyethylene foam.

The most popular, sold in rolls, has a fairly affordable price. Moisture resistance, thermal insulation and unattractiveness to rodents and mold are its positive aspects. One of the options for such a substrate is foil. Such a material, thanks to a thin aluminum layer, perfectly reflects the infrared spectrum, that is, heat.

But such a substrate also has negative sides. Polyethylene does not hold its shape well, so it sags over time. It is also possible to generate an electrostatic charge, so in very dry rooms the floor can be electrocuted.

A better version of this material is polyethylene foam. Its price is higher.

• Cork.

This material of natural origin perfectly insulates heat and is not susceptible to mold fungi. It does not deform and can serve for quite a long time. However, high price and water permeability are disadvantages of cork substrates.

• Cork-bituminous.

Retaining all the positive qualities of the cork substrate, this type is free from the disadvantages of moisture permeability, because its basis is bitumen and kraft paper, and the cork is distributed over the base with a layer of 2 - 3 mm. The high price of this material will be justified if it is laid under expensive types of laminate.

• Styrofoam.

This material is by far the most optimal for use as a substrate for laminate flooring in rooms where a high load on the flooring is expected. Expanded polystyrene is the most effective. Because it contains air bubbles. It perfectly evens out uneven surfaces, but at the same time does not change the overall shape, absorbs footstep sounds well and prevents moisture from passing to the laminate boards. A polystyrene foam underlayment under the laminate will provide comfortable conditions even for bare children's feet.

• Combined polystyrene-polyethylene.

This is an interesting combination of several layers of polyethylene, between which is a thin layer of expanded polystyrene beads. In addition to the positive qualities obtained by combining these two materials, this underlay is highly breathable, which allows the floor surface to “breathe”.

3. Warm floor

In addition to underlayment, which is a prerequisite for laying laminate flooring, a “warm floor” system is used for additional comfort. Consider the features of installing heating under the laminate.

One of the most rational ways to arrange floor heating for laminate flooring is infrared film systems. You can install such a warm floor quite simply with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists. The cost of such a system is quite affordable, and allows you to abandon bulky pipes and screed pouring.

The thickness of the film is less than a millimeter, which means it will not affect the overall level of the floor covering. It is quite safe to use it.

Folgoizol should be laid under the film coating of the warm floor to provide thermal insulation and reflect the infrared rays of the heating elements.

Important: Foil insulation material can only be laid under the underfloor heating film system. For other systems, the use of aluminum components in the substrate is not allowed.

Features of using thermal film:

• in places where it is planned to put heavy equipment or furniture, it is impossible to place the film;
• in the event that the thermal film is the only source of heating in the room, then it can cover up to 80% of the floor area, and if it acts as an additional heating, then up to a maximum of 40%.
• the distance from the walls must be at least 10 cm;

Thermal film installation must be carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Laying of laminate flooring should only be carried out after a complete check of the system.

In addition to the laminate itself, the substrate and heating, one should not forget about the final decorative element. Therefore, we choose a plinth for a laminate that matches in color and texture.

Laying laminate

A big part of success at work is a properly prepared workplace. To install laminate you will need:

• an electric jigsaw (with an appropriate blade) or a hacksaw with a fine tooth;
• construction square, tape measure, pencil or marker;
• hammer or wooden mallet;
• a special clamp for fixing the last row of laminate boards;
• substrate for laminate, adhesive tape, construction knife;
• household vacuum cleaner.

Sealing the gaps between the lamellas can be done using scrap material. They are also used for the construction of an expansion joint along the walls.

1. Material preparation

Before starting work, you should carry out the calculation and choose the order of the layout of the boards. The do-it-yourself laminate installation scheme is as follows: each next row must be started with a board that does not match the first board of the previous row in size. This means that there should be no cruciform joints in the pattern. Ideally, the principle of the location of the seams between the lamellas should be similar to brickwork - the butt seam is located exactly in the middle of the element in the previous row. But to save material, you can start a new row from the cut off part of the last board of the previous row. So crossings of butt joints can be easily avoided.

Laminate can be laid both along, across, and diagonally across the room, but keep in mind that when placed on the floor boards, the lamellas must be laid perpendicularly.

The laminate is laid, depending on the recommendations of the manufacturer, using an adhesive or locking method. The assembly of the floor can take place both with the piece-by-piece attachment of each plank, and in rows. The second option is preferred by professional builders more, as it optimizes the entire work process.

Efforts when closing the locks should not be applied, and the gap can only be “finished off” through a piece of laminate board or through a bar.

If repairs and flooring are carried out in the cold season or the air conditioner is constantly running in the room, it is necessary to allow the material to adapt to the temperature regime within 48 hours.

2. Installation instructions

Having prepared everything you need, you can start laying the flooring. The following is a step-by-step instruction for installing laminate flooring.

1. We cover the entire surface of the floor with a substrate. To prevent the sheets from moving, the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

2. When laying the first row, the ridge protrusion of the board is cut off, oriented towards the wall. The gaps should not exceed the distance that the skirting board can cover. But right next to the wall, the laminate boards should not be located. Minimum distance 8 mm.

3. We collect the second line of panels and connect with the first row.

4. We place the initial elements at the required distance from the wall and install spacer wedges that determine the distance between the wall and the slats of the first row. We place them at a distance of 25 - 30 cm

5. This is how the laying of the floor continues to the end. The last row is attracted with a clamp or with the help of improvised means.

6. There should be no gap between the laminate and the frame near the door. Ideally, you need to bring the lamellas close under the door jambs, having previously made small incisions in them.

7. Near the pipes coming out of the floor, it is necessary to leave a thermal expansion gap of up to 1 cm. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is drilled in the right place and a board is sawn in the middle of the holes. Install the board to the pipes, and the rest is attached with glue along the end seam and attracted with a clamp.

8. After laying the laminate lamellas, we fix the plinth.

A visual aid on how to lay a laminate in the video, which is at the end of the article.

On the packaging of the laminate, the manufacturer indicates the instructions for laying it. Follow it and the recommendations given in this article, and the laid flooring will delight its owners for more than one year.

Installation of finishing laminated coatings often raises questions even among experienced craftsmen. What are the criteria for choosing flooring material? Is a bevel really necessary? Where to start laying - from the window or along the length of the wall? The answers to these and other styling questions can be found below.

When laminated parquet appeared on the Russian market, well-known European manufacturers such as Berry, HDM, Tarkett and others first of all began to order special brochures in huge quantities. They provided complete information on the product: production features, selection criteria, plus the best options for different rooms, styling tricks, etc. And now in each pack you can find an insert (as in the photo below) with a completely understandable, but, unfortunately, shortened instruction for installing the floor material.

Installation instructions on package insert.

The first thing you need to pay attention to when choosing a laminate is the wear resistance class of the coating. Namely - the strength of the upper layer, overlay. A good laminate is not the thickest and most expensive, but one that meets the operating conditions. On sale today following classes:

twenties- This is mainly laminated parquet produced by Chinese factories.

• 21 class 6-8 mm - rooms with a low level of load (bedrooms);
• Grade 22 6-8 mm - rooms with low traffic (guest rooms);
• Grade 23 7-8 mm - places of frequent visits (halls, halls, kitchens).

thirties- a product of European, Russian, less often Chinese production. The same group includes the so-called waterproof laminate, which can be installed in bathrooms, laundries, etc.

forties– coatings of European and Russian production.

• Class 41 - 8-12 mm - is assigned to coatings with better characteristics than class 33. Purpose - trade and office, medical and sanatorium, educational institutions;
• 42 class 10-12 mm - special purpose premises, such as bowling alleys, dance classes and halls, libraries, etc .;
• 43 class 10-12 mm - production facilities with difficult operating conditions.

Thus, coatings with a load parameter of 31-32 are enough for a house, no more. For small offices, shops, schools and kindergartens, products of grades 33-34 are suitable. But in organizations and at facilities with high traffic in street shoes, it is better to lay a laminate of 34, 41-42 classes.

Laminate 8 mm for home use.

The next parameter to pay attention to is thickness laminated floor. On sale there are products of European, Russian and Chinese production with a cross section of 6 to 14 mm. The most common products are 8 mm. This is the optimal value for home and office use.

Lamellas 6-7 mm belong to the economy class. Despite the assurances of some unscrupulous manufacturers and sellers, even one millimeter significantly affects the resistance of the bars to loads. In addition, such a coating requires a mirror-smooth, perfectly flat and very durable floor, because laminate locks are very weak. It is impossible to obtain such a foundation without significant costs. Judge for yourself:

• Rough screed at least 5-6 cm and drying for 28 days;
• Grinding (removal of a weak top layer) and hardening;
• Finishing thin-layer alignment with a cross section of up to 2 cm and final grinding.

That is, in order to mount the laminate yourself costing up to 450 rubles / m², you will need to invest at least 1200 rubles per square meter in the base.

In commercial, industrial and commercial premises, the most optimal thickness is 10-12 mm. The density of the carrier plate is increased compared to 8 mm to 850-1100 kg / m³, the locks are very strong, so the laid coating will withstand significant loads and last the declared 10-15 years.

Types of laminate locks.

Equally important is the type of locking connection. The validity of the choice for a particular room depends on this. Let's explain in more detail. They produce a coating with 3 types of locks:

• Snap or Click - the most common connection for Russian and Chinese products. Successfully combines strength and ease of installation. Laying laminate with your own hands with this type of hitch is a pleasure.
• Tongue-and-groove or Lock - rare. Based on it, a mixed, peculiar click-lock has been developed. We consider this the most successful decision of European engineers, since a laminated coating with such a connection allows you to assemble planks in three ways: vertical attachment, horizontal shift and at an angle (classically). It is convenient when assembling in hard-to-reach places and in rooms with complex geometry.
• Volumetric 3D, 4D or 5D. A very original solution, the essence of which is as follows: a special insert made of hard plastic or metal is integrated into the end part of the plate, which, when assembled, forms a tight connection that is resistant to geometric changes. This is an excellent solution for regions with high levels of humidity or significant seasonal climatic differences.

For residential premises, a laminate laid using click locks will honestly serve the period declared by the manufacturer (subject to the purchase of high-quality products, and not a cheap analogue). Planks with a volumetric or mix lock are best used in private homes, commercial, office or public premises.

For many buyers, it is important to know whether to purchase a laminate with or without a chamfer.

After all, there are a lot of articles, including from manufacturers on their websites, that micro-grooving around the perimeter of each plank:

• improves consumer and operational properties of the coating;
• hides the flaws of the base;
• fixes installation errors.

Forced to disappoint. A chamfer is just a decorative element that gives the assembled floor volume and visual depth. It has no other useful features.

Layout Secrets

Installation of long floor coverings is carried out in several ways:

• Diagonally - the rows are shifted relative to each other by the width of the board. It looks good visually, but, according to experts, it is only suitable for coatings of short length, less than 1 meter, since the mutual binding of the lock joints is not very strong and durable. It is rather a method of laying ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware, made in a solid board design.
• "Brick wall" - the rows are shifted by exactly half the length of the lamella. This is a good solution for floor tiles or panel parquet, but not very good for laminate flooring - transverse joints will stand out too brightly against the general background, catch the eye.
• Deck laying - each next row is shifted by 1/3 of the length of the board. Manufacturers recommend this installation method as the most reliable and ensuring the correct strapping of the locks. Visually assembled floor looks very organic.

Having chosen the laying format, think about the layout option regarding the direction of the light flux. The range of well-known manufacturers such as Haro, Kaindl, BerryAlloc, Egger and others is characterized by great diversity. That is, straps of different sizes, from shortened to very long. Therefore, choosing a coating for your layout is not so difficult.

Laminate installation is carried out:

In the direction of the light, from the window - this option allows you to visually smooth out the transverse seams, creating the so-called endless board effect. The best solution for smooth or slightly textured surfaces in 1-, 2- and 3-strip applications. Particularly emphasizes the large windows in the room. Experts recommend this layout option when assembling the same type of laminate throughout the apartment.

Laying in the direction of the light.

Towards most intensive movements- will reduce the abrasion of the coating at the joints, significantly increasing its service life. This is a rational solution for those who cannot decide on the layout.

Laying in the direction of travel.

across the world or perpendicular to the window - a convenient way to emphasize the long wall on which the openings are located. The seams, of course, stand out at the same time, but the structure of the floor, its texture and depth will be especially clearly visible. Great idea for revealing a chamfer or 3D floor pattern;

Laying across the world.

Diagonally, at an angle from 45º to 60º relative to the walls - this is more of a design technique to emphasize the features of the floor, give the room special properties or level its shortcomings (too elongated room, curved walls, etc.). At the same time, the consumption of floor material (trimming) is not the standard 5-7%, but 12-20%.

Diagonal fit.

Another factor that affects the durability of laminate flooring is the surface area. Laid continuously, in a single sheet, looks beautiful, but impractical. The floor needs compensation gaps to prevent seasonal swelling of the planks and damage to the locks. The maximum dimensions recommended by manufacturers are 25-100 m². The exact value is indicated in the instructions.

The right decision is to divide the canvas between rooms using decorative profiles: metal or PVC thresholds, wooden joints, cork moldings, etc.

In order not to make a mistake with the choice, draw your room on paper to scale and form a layout drawing. So you can identify all the pros, cons, plan the installation correctly.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

Step-by-step instruction

Start by looking at packs. The purchased floor must be from the same batch or at least one year of manufacture. Otherwise, there is a risk of a discrepancy between the pattern, tone and even the shape of the castle.

Check that before laying the temperature and humidity conditions correspond to the correct parameters:

Installation is carried out in the following order:

Foundation preparation

Surfaces are subject to stringent requirements. It must be flat (differences of no more than 2 mm for every 2 meters of the floor), clean (without traces of oil, bitumen, old paintwork), dry, primed and durable (at least 150 MPa). The check is carried out with a control rail 2-3 m long or a level, as well as a moisture meter. Strength can be determined by scratching the concrete with a nail. The loose base must be strengthened, and even better - completely removed and re-formed.

Substrate flooring

For a laminate with a thickness of 8 mm or more, it is allowed to use old linoleum as a substrate layer. But provided that the coating is dense, thin and there are no voids, pits and other defects under it.

In all other cases, strips of a waterproofing film with an overlap of 15-20 cm are first laid on the screed. The joints are fixed with adhesive tape. Then the rolls or slabs of the substrate are laid end-to-end.

Laminate assembly

Laying starts from the longest wall, from the far corner towards the doorway. The first lamella is installed, spacer wedges are inserted at intervals of 40-60 cm. The first row is assembled: the narrow end of the plank is attached to the initial one and snaps into place at an angle. And so on until the end.

The next strip begins with a cut board, the length of which should not be less than 30 cm. The slats are attached at an angle and snap into place. To bypass pipes or columns, a segment is cut out in the plank, taking into account the temperature gap of 6-10 mm. Then the cut element is installed in place, if necessary, the joints are glued. The surface is decorated with special overlays or plastic moldings.

When installing the last row, all lamellas are sawn to the desired width, but not less than 5 cm, installed in the opening and attracted to the main canvas with the help of a pad. The finished floor is decorated with skirting boards and thresholds.

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