13.03.2017 1 409 0 ElishevaAdmin

Gardeners can receive free of charge environmentally friendly fertilizer - compost, collecting and processing organic waste into it - leaves, grass, and so on.

Some make a compost heap, others make a compost pit, where the components rot and gradually form compost.

But this process can be accelerated, optimized, having the ability to mix the components often and actively. To do this, create a compost barrel.

You can make it easily and simply, having the minimum of tools that the gardener and gardener always have at hand. Yes, and the materials are not God knows what, they can also be found in your own shed or pantry. A barrel only needs to be purchased, maybe rollers.

Instruments

Drill driver

A hammer

Electric jigsaw

Saw (reciprocating, table or ordinary hacksaw)

Cross bit and screwdriver

Pencil

materials

4 rollers;

Wooden bars of different lengths 50 x 100 mm (other sections are also possible)

Screws and nails

Plywood 6 mm thickness

Rubber bands

Making a compost bin

Having prepared tools and materials, let's get down to business.

1. The barrel should be closed, we will make a plywood lid. To do this, putting the barrel "on the butt", we will outline the circle of the neck. Take a jigsaw or saw and cut out a circle.

2. On the inside of the lid, nail a few bars to the plywood. To do this, we will inscribe a square in the circle of the lid (by eye), and place the bars at its corners. They must be fastened with nails (bend the ends) or screws.

3. The lid must be firmly fixed so that all the contents do not fall out of it during rotation. It is convenient to make a latch from rubber bands, providing them with hooks. The hooks will be threaded into the neck of the barrel, for this we will drill several holes.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of the correct length of the bundles. After all, they should be removed and put on without problems, while reliably holding the lid closed.

4. Let's make a frame from the bars on which the barrel will rotate. This is a rectangle, the long side of it slightly exceeds the length of the barrel, and the short side is about ¾ of the width of the barrel.

We take the bars and knock down a rectangle from them, in the corners for rigidity we fix the braces, cutting them out of the remnants of plywood.

How to make a compost pit or pile?

5. We will install rollers on the long sides of the frame, it is on them that the barrel will rotate. We fasten 2 rollers with screws on each long side, pushing them closer to the ends of the barrel. In this case, it is easier to rotate and more stable.

If the rollers are located close to the middle, the barrel may jump off during rotation.

However, the screws will allow you to adjust the position of the rollers, if necessary.

6. When rotating, the barrel tends to slide off the frame along the length. To prevent this, we will install an emphasis on one of the end sides of the frame. This is a simple board that will hold the barrel in place.

7. In order for the contents of the barrel not only to slide along the walls, but also to be actively mixed during rotation, it is worth fixing several bars inside the barrel.

That's it, the compost barrel can now be used. Note that all operations to create it are done by eye, no precise measurements are required.

Compost heap: video on how to make it yourself

Compost heap for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost box, manure, DIY

In summer cottages, a compost heap is a mandatory attribute. After all, compost is a unique organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, as well as mineral fertilizers and specially fertile soil brought in. In addition, by collecting organic debris throughout the site, we simply clean up the area around.

Of course, you should place a compost heap or waste composting boxes in secluded places so that they do not catch the eye and do not spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be at hand. In the case of a classic composting solution, three sections are needed for the production of compost: in one, the process of laying waste is in progress, in the other, the compost matures, and in the third, the finished fertilizer is ready for removal to the beds. In terms of size, many converge to the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books, they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is advised to shovel the contents of the compost heap annually to supply air to the ripening compost, i.e. to speed up the process of waste decomposition. This task requires serious physical effort.
How to speed up the composting process?

But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to preserve moisture and to increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic wrap with holes for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug “Tamir”. To speed up the process, you can also choose a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid so that composting will be significantly accelerated. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.
Composting in an iron barrel
1 - holes in the barrel wall;
2 - green mass;
3 - manure;
4 - ash;
5 - earth;
6 - polyethylene.

So a modern compost heap can be made compact or, for this purpose, waste can be folded into a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meters, making it from boards.

But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit:

Firstly, to ensure air access in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we make 20-30 holes with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. We place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating gaskets are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture must move freely in both directions.

Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel in a dark color for better heating in the sun, which will ensure a high temperature inside and speed up the composting process.

The process of making compost in a barrel is very convenient and simple. Several of these barrels can be placed around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. It can be a summer kitchen, garden beds, etc.
Layers for laying compost

To speed up the production of compost, the fertilizer components should be laid in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:

First, we place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making a layer of them 15-20 cm thick.

Then we put 5 cm of manure or substances rich in nitrogen.

After we break everything with a centimeter layer of earth.

So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.

We cover the filled barrel with a piece of plastic film with holes, which we tie with twine so that it is not blown away by the wind. From time to time water the prepared compost with water so that it does not dry out. You can water at the same time as watering the beds. But it is not necessary to overmoisten the compost mass. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to the squeezed sponge.

If there are ants in the barrel, then the compost heap has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the desired humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will keep the compost heap moist. The complexity of the last method is only to immediately fill the barrel with all the layers of compost to the top.

In this design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel, there is a significant acceleration of the composting process. And you do not need to wait 3 years, as in the classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
• the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
• the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the object.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

compost pit This is a place for the disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden debris decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But the right designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.

Compost pit principles

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost tank must have the following design features:

Make compost boxes from any available materials. These can be boards, slate trims, corrugated board, metal building mesh, and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement for the construction of a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from water bodies and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, wells, pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place a compost pit in wetlands or in places with stagnant water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully colored shields, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or backyard, you can use the simplest tools to make a quality structure and turn a pile of garden debris and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are a wide variety of types of compost heaps, from earthen ditches to real concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

1. In the ground, a site is selected away from residential buildings.
2. On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of turf and soil is removed.
3. The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
4. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer performs the function of drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of cut branches.

They are laid in layers:

• cut grass;
• dry foliage;
• sawdust;
• household food waste;
• manure;
• weedy herbs.

Layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying, simply chopping with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, a pile is watered with plain water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to get compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is enough for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speed up the recycling process, the compost bin is made from boards. The optimal size of the compost box is 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Lay garbage in such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost already from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Variants of compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a composter from slate:

1. Marking is done at the location of the compost heap and deepen cut-to-size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
2. In another embodiment, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with a film or garden covering material.

Compost pit from corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

1. At the chosen place, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden block.
2. The dimensions of the pit are chosen according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
3. The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
4. Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
5. It should be borne in mind that the metal surface becomes very hot during hot summer periods.
6. From above they make a shelter for their plywood or boards. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. And also compost can be made in special bags that are sold at garden centers.

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many benefits:

• Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
• Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse environmental conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. Compost of different seasons will ripen in the first and second blocks. The third store bags of finished compost.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products to it.

Other material options for the compost pit

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

1. We cut down both bottoms with a chisel and put them near the track.
2. We put weeds, mowed grass, kitchen waste in layers in a barrel.
3. To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
4. We get the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

1. Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
2. Then we put them on the priest and connect them with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
3. The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
4. To get ready-made compost, you only need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal material for a compost bin is plastic. In conventional compost heaps, compost takes two years to mature. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, liquid compost can be prepared in two weeks.

For this:

1. We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds to half, and fill it with water to the top.
2. After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
3. After using the solution, you can again add water to the barrel and let it brew for one week.
4. Having spent the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is folded into a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

A brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done with or without cement mortar. On a cement mortar, a compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Between the bricks you need to leave gaps for ventilation.

A brick compost pit without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

Garden debris can be successfully stored in the inner cavity of the concrete ring and compost can be obtained as a result. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

The disadvantages of the design include the absence of an underestimated front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology

If there is no desire to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another is inserted. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The empty container is washed and returned to its place.

Do not confuse compost and cesspool. Organic matter from the garden plot is stored in containers for making compost. The remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our vegetable gardens and orchards receive additional fertilizer.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

• branches;
• dry foliage;
• cut grass;
• weeds;
• straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

• food leftovers from vegetarian food;
• egg shell;
• onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken manure.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

• construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
• remnants of printed products;
• plastic.

Do not compost leftover protein and oily foods, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with matured seeds and with roots that can take root well, such as:

• thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• loach.

Drought-tolerant plants should be dried before being placed in the compost pile so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it slowly decomposes and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use feces of domestic animals and humans when composting.

Preparations for the compost pit

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

1. Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
2. The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
3. The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package must be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn a bunch of pitchforks. For the preparation of compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
4. Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
5. Manufacturer Lucky summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- compost preparation. Saneks plus releases the EcoCompost product.
6. Manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green all-rounder", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

By using preparations, microbiological processes can be significantly accelerated and compost can be obtained in 2-3 months.

Preparations-bioactivators for compost

Rules for the operation of a compost pit

After the construction of the compost box and its filling, it remains occasionally to look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

1. In dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of some types of beneficial bacteria.
2. At least once every two weeks, you should loosen the compost heap., thereby providing an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
3. Add "Effective Microorganisms" to your compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
4. To speed up the process, you can add a ready-made compost substrate, which contains a full range of microbiological activators.
5. If the pit design does not have a top cover, then simply cover the top with a black garden cover, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with your own hands from improvised materials, which are always enough in any personal plot.

Having spent a little time on making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposing of garden and household waste.