Solid bed in the interior. Self-made bed made of wood: the nuances of work. Fastening external panels

The bed is the main element of the bedroom. The choice of these interior items should be approached very responsibly. They should not only be as comfortable as possible, but also beautiful. Today we will take a closer look at the beautiful models of double beds made from different types of wood.

Peculiarities

Natural wood furniture has always been valuable. And even in the age of high-tech materials, wooden furniture remains in demand and desired. The main advantage of such interior items is their environmental friendliness. Today, not all materials from which furniture is made can boast of this quality. During the production of wooden products, dangerous and harmful chemicals are not used, as, for example, in the case of MDF sheets, which include formaldehyde resins.

Even at high temperatures, natural furniture does not emit substances harmful to human health.

However, it is worth noting the high cost of such beds. Not every consumer can afford them. But those people who decided not to save on their health and purchased such products were satisfied with their purchases. Experts say that such interior items have an extremely beneficial effect on the human psyche and calm the nervous system.

Resting on a cozy bed made of natural wood is truly complete and healthy.

It is impossible not to note the unsurpassed appearance of such furniture. With the help of a beautiful wooden double bed, you can create a very pleasant, cozy atmosphere and a harmonious interior, which will bring a lot of pleasure. Such models look great in many interiors. It can be classic, rustic country or French Provence. You can choose the right option for any situation.

When choosing such furniture, it is necessary to take into account the fact that it will have a lot of weight.

Most types of wood require special care:

Modern manufacturers produce a huge variety of models of double beds made from natural materials. They have different configurations and differ from each other in size and shape.

Styles

Quality and eco-friendly wooden beds are different. Let's take a closer look at the models that modern manufacturers offer us.

Classic style

Elegant beds made of natural wood, made in a classic style, will never leave the fashion ranks. With the help of such pieces of furniture, you can create an expensive, luxurious interior with a touch of aristocracy. As a rule, in such models there is an exquisite wooden headboard, made in a pretentious manner. If the furniture has a foot, then it can be carved and decorated with elegant elements.

Today, many companies that produce such items complement them with metal inserts and luxurious canopies made of high-quality and expensive fabrics.

Provence

Attractive appearance is distinguished by natural interior items in the style of French Provence. As a rule, furniture in a similar vein is made of light woods. It can be birch or ash. Such beautiful beds are often complemented with roomy linen drawers and aged fittings. These products are expensive, but their appearance justifies the price.

If you put such upholstered furniture in the bedroom and complement it with suitable accessories, the result will be a very beautiful and stylish ensemble.

East style

Oriental-style wooden beds have a unique design. As a rule, such models are low, which gives them an original appearance. An important role is played by the coloring of such furniture.

The most optimal shades of an oriental bed are dark brown, wenge or cherry.

Modern

Simple and functional is the Art Nouveau double bed. The tree for such models is subjected to additional processing. All corners are smoothed out in it, and the joints are made less noticeable. Such options look especially harmonious in minimalist and modern interiors.

The main distinguishing features of such furniture are rigor and conciseness.

Handmade

Handmade wooden beds have an unsurpassed appearance. The most common are aged models of dark tones. Such options look harmonious in classic, Gothic and other similar interiors.

Today, high-quality and beautiful models from Belarusian, Russian, Malaysian and even Chinese manufacturers are very popular. Products are made from different types of wood and have different prices.

As a rule, expensive beds made of natural materials are equipped with spacious linen closets and mattresses.

materials

For the production of high-quality bedroom furniture, the following types of wood are used:

• Alder. This tree species has a soft and pliable structure. It is easy to process and perfect for making beautiful carvings. Alder has a pleasant shade that can emphasize all the positive aspects of the interior in which it is located.

• Beech. This material is valuable, as it is characterized by high strength, beautiful appearance, durability and resistance to mechanical damage. Beech furniture is expensive, but its quality and performance justify the price.

• Ash. This wood is strong and durable. However, this does not affect its supple and elastic structure. Ash furniture has a lot of weight and a very spectacular appearance, which attracts a lot of attention.

• Oak. This type of wood is most often used in the manufacture of furniture. Such popularity is due to the strength of the material and a rich selection of its shades. Designers say that high-quality and natural oak furniture can transform the interior and create a unique atmosphere.

If you decide to purchase a high-quality bed made of natural wood, then you should take into account some of the nuances in order to choose the right model:

• Such furniture should have a strong and reliable frame, therefore, special attention should be paid to it. More stable and durable are products in which there are 4 side support panels with backs attached to them. As a rule, in such structures there is a wooden headboard, but the foot is not always the case. The highest quality and most reliable base for wooden furniture are lintels and lamellas, on which the mattress will later be laid.
• The bed must match the color and style to the interior in which it will be located.
• Such items are recommended to be purchased from quality manufacturers with a good reputation. Do not trust too low prices. Real wood furniture will never be too cheap.

Beautiful ideas in the interior

A double bed made of solid wood, decorated with a curved headboard, will look harmoniously against the background of the walls, finished with gray-brown wood panels and the floor, covered with beige carpet. Two semicircular bedside tables with laconic white lamps should be placed next to the bed. Complete the interior with black and white paintings above the bed, white linens, a fluffy caramel-colored floor carpet, and light-colored Roman shades on the windows.

A chocolate bed can be placed in a room with white walls and a light-colored laminate floor. The bed should be complemented with chocolate bedside tables, a glass coffee table and large paintings with black frames above the headboard.

The bed for adults determines the look of the interior of the bedroom. And if it is in full view of everyone in a studio or budget apartment, then together with a wardrobe and a table it forms a triumvirate, from which the whole design of the home dances. This circumstance affects production and trade markups: for family double beds, they are not so ugly, but they could be cheaper. Hence the understandable interest of home craftsmen in home-made beds: after all, it’s not a TV and it’s not a car. And not even a wardrobe or a chandelier.

Craftsmen make beds of various types and designs. Examples in fig. cover only the core of amateur bed building, which still has many bends, side jets and swirls. We will stay more in the main jet.

Making a bed with your own hands is both simple and difficult at the same time. Simply because technologically there is nothing complicated in it; a very good bed can be made with your own hands outside the carpentry workshop at home, right in the apartment. It is difficult because the bed is one of the most loaded pieces of furniture and almost the only one that is designed for regular (or irregular, it’s like that) significant alternating loads. The ratios of their magnitudes to the bearing capacity of parts of acceptable dimensions are close to those in industrial equipment or military equipment, but it is not good to design an everyday thing like a machine bed or a gun carriage. To fit given requirements into the minimum of available material, labor and money, you need to make full use of the mechanics of wooden structures and related disciplines. This article is meant to give you a basic understanding of the bed, its main parts and how they work in the structure. Illustrative materials can be used both directly and as a basis for your own developments.

From the anecdotal history of beds

The famous Soviet submarine captain Alexander Marinesko once had an affair with a very temperamental Swede from ... mmm ... a public house in the city where the flotilla was based. The glory of the hero, who in the kriegsmarine from the junior officer to the grand admirals was seriously considered the sea devil himself with a team of werewolves, the lady was not particularly impressed. But an enthusiastic adoration for Captain Marinesco flared up in her when, during the next rendezvous, the bed collapsed under them.

The fact is that the craft of that person was hereditary. So to speak, a tribal tradition along the female line. She inherited the bed from her grandmother. Here is a bed worthy of such a pair, we will try to build.

Entry level bed

Beds of a simplified design, in which the backs are included in the power circuit, and the legs are made integral with them, only economy class is made for adults. And then, the legs are separated from the backs and placed on the side close to them, so that an angle is formed that gives the product at least minimal rigidity. But all the same, somewhere you have to put additional props resting directly on the floor, which is not optimal, see below. Drawings of a bed of this type, designed for moderately intensive use for 10-12 years, are shown in fig. The front back/wall differs from the back only in the absence of a decorative extension. The material of the backs of the laminated chipboard, the lounger is plywood; the rest is wood. Assembly on self-tapping screws for wood and steel corners. And we will go further, to beds that can withstand a grandmother with many lovers and her offspring.

Material

A do-it-yourself bed is best made of wood; it will cost less than laminated chipboard with the same complexity of work, but the bed will last for decades. The furniture array will be more expensive than laminated chipboard, but you can get by with timber without defects if you take it from a closed heated warehouse. Lumber stored under a canopy or in the open air is suitable for furniture only after a long drying at home, and a lot of waste is generated due to warping. A crib, bedside table, chest of drawers or a coffee table can still be carved out of such a forest, but it definitely won’t go to an adult bed with its heavily loaded parts.

A bed for several years, until money is collected for high-quality furniture, can be made from simple sanded chipboard, not laminated. It will cost along with painting / varnishing or tight-fitting self-adhesive under a tree no more expensive than wood. Problems of shrinkage and warping, of course, disappear, but the service life of the bed will not exceed 20 years due to natural deterioration of the binder. Chipboard bed designs have a number of features, discussed below.

What if it's an array?

Solid wood furniture is expensive, but just like chipboard, it is guaranteed against warping and shrinkage. And on his bed will go much less than on the closet. If you can afford such a prestigious pleasure, then for the sample in fig. a product of German masters: an original double bed made of structural solid wood. Timber and other lumber are not used. The original version with a headboard-blinds is designed to be installed in the middle of the room. Such a headboard near the wall will gather dust, but you can not do it, or do something else, see below. The array frame alone will take a little more than 2 square meters. m; in terms of money for pine, it will come out about 10 thousand rubles. The cheapest ready-made solid bed costs at least three times as much.

About connections

A wooden bed will be most durable if assembled on carpentry joints. The most commonly used are tongue-and-groove, closed and open, and a half-tree or a quarter tie-in. Dowels and dowels are used less frequently due to their lower strength. All wood-to-wood joints must be glued.

Joiner's connections gain design strength for some time, up to 2 weeks, they require sufficiently high production skills, special tools and a separate workshop, because. give a lot of sawdust and shavings. Therefore, a home-made bed is assembled on metal connectors. The fasteners will have to be tightened as the tree dries out, but the bed “on steel” will take on the full load immediately upon manufacture.

In beds "for a while" and, in some cases, durable (see below), it is advisable to use universal thin-walled steel perforated plates. From them you can bend corners, pockets, or both together, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, it is better to take the corners with a stamped stiffener, pos. 2.

The bed "on steel for a long time" is better to assemble on bolts and nuts; bolt heads in the front surfaces are sealed in the same way as confirmations: with decorative plugs or PVA putty or liquid nails on sawdust. But locking the nuts in pairs is a steel washer - a spring washer, as in pos. 2, on the tree fades into the past. It is better to take shaped nuts with a corrugated bottom surface (press nuts) complete with Teflon washers. Elastic durable Teflon is eternal, it will keep the nut from unscrewing no worse than a grower or a petal washer, and most likely you won’t have to tighten the connection at all.

Note: the use of metal in the main structure of the bed is limited. Why and when it is needed, see below.

About nails

Now it’s not customary to talk about nail joints. Like, antiquated old-fashioned, but a screwdriver with confirmations is cool. But it's too early to discount nails. In addition to the cheapness of fasteners, nails do not require preparatory operations (drilling), special tools, wearing out replaceable working bodies for it and do not produce waste. As for the noise, an experienced carpenter “bales” 100 mm nails with a 200-gram hammer so that you can hear it in the next room only if you listen.

There are corrugated nails on sale, see fig., Holding the tree no worse than confirmations and also self-tightening as the wood dries out. In nodes where the operating load does not tend to pull out the nail, the connections on them are quite reliable, and if the load falls along the nail from the cap to the tip, they are absolutely reliable. There are enough such knots in the bed, at least fastening the spacers to the sides, see below.

Bed arrangement

The bed frame in an adult way is a rectangular frame made of boards placed on the edge - a tsarg. The frame can be equipped with additional stiffeners; it is placed on legs and the front (foot) and back (head) backs are attached to it. A bed (bed, lodgement) is placed in the frame, on which a mattress is placed. To make less pile from it fall on the floor, and dust from the floor to the mattress, the bed is often covered or covered with a mattress pad made of tarpaulin, canvas, etc. technical fabrics. Also, a mattress topper is sometimes called a solid slab bed.

Note: in mattresses on a rigid basis (spring and rather expensive orthopedic ones), the bed and mattress pad are part of the mattress. But a lodgement in a bed under them is still needed for the reasons described below.

Tsargi

Tsars are made of board or chipboard. Plywood is not suitable, because. plywood is very flexible and prone to delamination over long lengths under dynamic loads. The thickness of the tsarg is from 30 mm; width for a bed up to 2.2x1.6 m from 170, but better from 200 mm.

In high-quality beds, the sides are connected with dowels or, if an open connection is acceptable for aesthetics, a half-wood tie-in, a through spike with a wedging, or a dovetail. Keyed connections are not applicable in this case, because do not exclude the displacement of the tsarg along the key, and in this direction the greatest loads fall on the connection. For laying the bed from the inside, support bars are attached to the tsargs. They crash at the corners into each other half a tree, on the left in fig.

In simpler and cheaper beds, the drawers are assembled into a frame on metal fasteners (corners + hardware), and the support bars at the corners do not converge, on the right in Fig. Under the bed on the lamellas (see below), spacers can be attached to them, but not necessarily, separating the nests of the lamellas. They may or may not be on the sides of beds of any class, depending on the design of the slats and the bed as a whole.

Note: if the support bar under the lamellas is placed on the side assembly, the spacers are nailed to it in advance. If the spacers are placed on the side of the assembly, then they need to be nailed to the board.

About prefabricated sidewalls

The bed in the bedroom on the sides with textile inserts is much more hygienic, because. dynamic loads effectively ventilate the under-bed space. One of the designs of the prefabricated sidewall is shown in Fig. on right. The side tsargi cut into the drill with a hidden (deaf) spike. The fabric insert can be solid, depending on the aesthetics, then the spacer is not needed. It is also not necessary to fasten the fabric with dowels in the grooves, as in industrial production; it can be fixed with slats nailed from the inside. Then the loops under the nails in the fabric are cut in advance, the slats are nailed, if only the material is grabbed, the fabric is pulled and the slats are nailed tightly. The fabric must be decaged, i.e. 2-3 times soaked and dried.

Bed

If there are partitions in the bed frame, for example, under the drawer niches that can work as stiffeners, and the mattress is on a rigid frame, then sometimes the bed is not made at all, pos. 1 in fig. below. In this case, a sheet of plywood 8-16 mm with ventilation holes is laid under a soft mattress, pos. 2. But this is far from the best option, and not only due to the high consumption of material and the amount of waste.

The bed bed does not just hold the mattress, while at the same time providing ventilation for it and the space under the bed. It must have a certain elasticity in order to take on those same dynamic loads, and to transfer to the frame only what it can withstand from grandmother to granddaughter without creaking. Therefore, the bed of a "real adult" bed is recruited from freely laid boards - lamellas. A plywood mattress pad under a very soft mattress is laid on them, and without slats it will turn out to be something like a pressing punch for a bed.

slats

The slats can be laid across or along the bed. In terms of mechanics, transverse ones are better, they are softer and more evenly dampen dynamic loads. They also provide the sweetest sleep and everything else on the bed, because. play up and down according to the movements of the body. If the width of the bed is more than 1.1 m, the slats are most often made double, stacked in 2 rows. Then, in the middle of the frame along its length, a lamella support beam is installed - a spar, pos. 3. In factory models, the spar is made of a steel corrugated pipe with sockets and / or a support platform for the lamellas.

Note: don't be surprised by aviation terminology; further there will also be stringers with ribs. The designers of the first airplanes adopted a lot, among others, from furniture makers, incl. and terms.

The wooden axial support of the slats requires additional reinforcement from below, because it accounts for the maximum (antinode, in technical terms) of dynamic loads. For the reasons given below, props of any kind should be avoided. How to be a do-it-yourselfer here, we'll see a little later.

The lamellas can be flat or curved upwards. The latter are bent in advance, it is impossible to put flat boards instead of lamellas: they will quickly loosen the bed, even if they only sleep on it. The bent slats of expensive beds are equipped with plastic tips that provide the required gap between the slats (see below) without spacers on the support bars and effective damping of alternating forces.

Bent slats are designed for fairly expensive mattresses; as a rule, complete or recommended for the bed. Lying on this one feels like a boyar on a swan featherbed, but the mattress is of the middle and lower price segment, incl. orthopedic, on bent lamellas sometimes gets off, and the neighbors in the bed in a dream roll down to the edge or pile on top of each other.

It is better for a home master to get by with flat lamellas. Firstly, any mattress will fall on them; those under the royal-boyar down jackets are also designed for a flat bed. Secondly, the lamellas can then be made whole, and the spar can be replaced with 2 stringers, pos. 4. The antinode of the dynamics will fall on the free space, and a bar from 75x50, placed on the edge, will go to the stringers. True, l’amour le trois on such a bed will turn out not so hot, how pleasant, but we will expect that readers do not suffer from a tendency to deviations in the intimate sphere.

Finally, the bed bed with drawers also needs to be spring-loaded for sleeping comfort and product durability. A spar cut into the partition walls of the boxes will not only limit their capacity, but can have an unpleasant side effect, see below. In this case - there is nothing to do - you will have to lay longitudinal lamellas, pos. 5.

How not to with lamellas

First, it is not necessary to nail the lamellas to the frame and / or “reinforce” them with stringers in the presence of a spar, pos. 6. The power circuit of the bed is designed so that the lamellas take on the dynamics of loads, and the frame takes on statics. With tightly fixed lamellas, they will exchange one and the other, which for a lying person will be expressed unambiguously - in a bad dream. As for the stringers, they simply won’t feel anything in this scheme and will only wonder why they were installed? For the sake of extra labor and material costs? If we already make a bed on stringers, then without a spar, see above.

The second mistake is too frequent and / or wide lamellas with small gaps, pos. 7. Ventilation worsens and too rigid spring bed turns into the same punch. The norm for installing lamellas is 6.5 + 0.5 pcs. per meter of bed size perpendicular to their long axes. Material - board (100-120) x (20-25) or plywood (100-120) x (10-12).

And a completely unforgivable mistake - a deaf hard bed, pos. 8. There can be only one justification for the presence of such beds in production and sale: they look “cool” on the trading floor without a mattress. And for the home master, another minus is added: why put expensive decorative material where it will not be visible?

Lamels and racks

There are beds with a flaw in the design, sometimes necessary for budget models, but still annoying: the presence of support posts that transfer loads directly to the floor, see fig. on right. Recall that in the right bed only the frame through the legs should interact with the floor. And in this product are not required, but possible, 2 fatal defects:

• The floor is very hard, e.g. laminate on a substrate without lag on the self-leveling screed. Depending on the location of the bed in the room (it is impossible to read or accurately simulate on a home computer), even the involuntary movements of the sleeper through the racks will be given back, and the effect of the princess and the pea will appear in the dream.
• Paul on the lags. Due to the different mechanical characteristics of the flooring and the bed frame, it, being absolutely sound and not loosened at all, will turn out to be creaky. Especially at the most inappropriate moments for the perception of such sounds.

Legs, floor and frame

The legs of the bed, like the slats, work in two ways. Even threefold, given the possibility of its movement. But in a bed that stands in its place indestructibly, they do more than just hold the frame. It is in the legs that the remnants of the bed dynamics and its return from the floor are extinguished. The interaction of loads opposite in the direction of propagation contributes to resonance; this is one of the possible reasons why the bed creaks and creaks no matter how you sort it out and pull it up.

To avoid resonance, the legs of the bed must, in addition to overall strength, have a low mechanical quality factor. Therefore, legs made of boards or L-shaped chipboard are bad, they ring well. In addition, they are known to break easily when dragging the bed. So her legs must be made of timber; preferably coniferous. A section from 50x50 will be enough for both strength and vibration damping. Thicker, of course, will not hurt, especially if the tree of the legs is dense deciduous, then it is advisable to take from 100x100.

The thickening of the timber legs also gives constructive advantages: in an expensive bed, or home-made for a long time, the frame sides cut into the legs without any problems in any way, as on the left in Fig. This will not only strengthen the bed, but also reduce the likelihood of squeaking to nothing, and will also make it possible to make a solid headboard, incl. oblique, see below. And in a simple bed “on steel”, the same legs provide high strength of the frame corners; therefore - the entire bed, in the center in fig.

Finally, the side tsargs unloaded with powerful legs will make it possible to make a bed such that the Swedish grandmother never dreamed of. Namely: to strengthen the frame with transverse stiffness braces - ribs, on the right in the figure, from boards placed on the edge half in comparison with the tsargs of width and thickness. They put ribs under the bed, they do not replace it! They are attached to the tsargs either by cutting through a spike (not half a tree or into a worm!), Or using metal pockets. This is one of the cases when the metal in the bed is better than woodwork, see below for another.

Bed and podium

A bed with a podium has been friends for a long time: for respect in a luxury bedroom, pos. 1 in Fig., for space zoning in a studio apartment, pos. 2, or, conversely, in a cramped odnushka, pos. 3. However, not a bed with a podium, but the actual bed-podium as one product, exists mainly in three forms. The first is a bed retractable from the podium in the same odnushka, pos. 4, or children's, pos. 5, which allows you to save a usable area equal to that of a bed. If the ratio of the length of the room to its width is not more than 4/3, then the corner bed-podium, pos. 6, has little effect on the ergonomics of the room, you just need to think carefully about the layout.

In an ordinary dwelling, a bed structurally combined with a podium, pos. 7 is used mainly for hygienic purposes: both the floor under it and the mattress from the floor almost do not gather dust. But such a solution is used quite rarely, because. the podium resonates easily. Much more often, a podium bed is placed in a niche, which in itself dampens sounds well, and is equipped with drawers, pos. 8, which allows you to turn an uncomfortable nook into a cozy alcove and save space for a linen closet.

Podium

The podium for the boxes is assembled on the corners with box-shaped hardware from a bar from 40x40, on the left in fig. The maximum size of the horizontal mesh is 400x600 mm. It makes no sense to increase the thickness of the timber over 50x50, because. the maximum allowable mesh size at the same time grows much more slowly than the cross section of the tree, which increases the consumption of material without adding much strength to the podium.

You can’t make a podium for a pull-out bed box-shaped, except that the bed is floating, complex and not very reliable. In this case, the upper crate above the bed niche is assembled with a mesh of up to 300x400 mm, and the cross braces are placed offset, on the right in the figure, or in a checkerboard pattern.

Bed to him

The retractable bed to the podium is the same frame from the side rails of reduced height. In order to take on loads that are unnecessary for weak boards, the support belt is made reinforced, and the corners of its beams are necessarily connected by a half-tree tie-in on glue and reinforced with pairs of diagonally screwed self-tapping screws, see fig; dimensions - in cm. Glue - PVA or Express (liquid nails); fastening with hardware is carried out within no more than 5% of the time of complete curing of the adhesive.

Note: This bed rolls out. To roll out along, it is enough to turn the clip with rollers 90 degrees horizontally.

Design examples

with drawers

From a hygienic point of view, under-bed linen boxes are not the best option: things are constantly in stagnant air. In addition, over 90% of room dust is held in a layer of about 20 cm above the floor; this, by the way, is also a weighty argument against pull-out beds. But sometimes there is nowhere to go, there is simply no place for a linen closet or a stationary bed.

The design of beds with boxes faces a number of difficulties, mainly due to the direct interaction of the partitions with the floor. There is no way to fully account for the mechanics of either gender! You can get around them by constructing a bed in an unconventional way for furniture, namely, by calculating the spar similarly to the backbone frame of a truck, in the form of a powerful beam that can take any load and effectively dampen vibrations. The loads will be transferred to it by all the elements “splayed out” to the sides. In the Tatras, this approach made it possible to use an independent wheel suspension, which ensured excellent ride and cross-country ability, and a bed with boxes on a spinal frame will make it possible to vary their size, number and design of the bed in any way, without thinking about overall strength and creaks - the backbone will blow everything .

Note: in production, spinal load-bearing structures are labor-intensive, material-intensive, not technologically advanced and do not forgive design errors. But this is not a hindrance to a stubborn and skillful do-it-yourselfer.

The spine of the bed is made, of course, not from a large diameter steel pipe, as in a dump truck, but from a pair of 100x50 bars. The remaining parts of the carrier system, including inserts between the beams (longitudinals) of the ridge, are made of 100x100 timber. Backs and sides, which in this case are just decorative overlays - any, even cardboard ones. Dimensions can be taken from the figure, knowing that they are multiples of 10 mm and the overall length of the bed (including the thickness of the backs) is 2550 mm. Too much? The bed on the ridge can be increased to 3x2 m. Somersault as you like, there was only enough living space.

The beams of the supporting frame at the corners must cut into half a tree on glue and dowels - wedged through bosses, see Fig. Dowel wedges are placed crosswise, because. they should be perpendicular to the fibers of the wood of the part to be joined. If the bars are thin-layer hardwood, the wedges are placed diagonally across, as in fig. The frame with the ridge is attached to the legs with self-tapping screws with an envelope. The contact of the partitions with the floor does not matter, the ridge will absorb the vibrations. You can partition to the floor and not bring.

If you do not trust innovations, then a bed with drawers will have to be assembled on a rather complex frame that requires no less material. Dimensions and scheme - on the next. rice. This differs from standard designs in that it allows you to lay transverse lamellas, incl. bent.

About the mattress holders

What is it there in the ridge - "the location of the mattress clamps"? These are round or square bosses so that the mattress, fidgeting on the bed, does not rub, see fig. on right. Wooden mattresses on glue and nails go to the frame of the mattress on a rigid basis, felt ones can be sewn to the soft one. The size and location of the mattress clamps are chosen so that they fit into the grooves or holes of the bed and do not allow the mattress to move.

From chipboard

Chipboard in inexpensive beds is widely used, but almost always in combination with wood. The fact is that chipboard, which is generally strong, “does not like” concentrated loads very much, it is fragile at the ends, ribs and edges, and in small details it often delaminates already during sawing; chipboard bears alternating loads even worse than plywood. Therefore, in beds made of chipboard, at least the legs, the supporting belt of the bed and the spar are made of wood; drawings of this type of bed in fig. Please note that the crossbars from a 40x40 bar in this case are not lamellas, but ribs! There is no box on the drawing!

However, beds made entirely of chipboard are also found: a panel structure on a supporting cross, see fig. on right. There are no small details, the cross with overlays dampens the dynamics both from the bed and from the floor. Thickness of plates from 30 mm. All edges are edged with a piping for T-profile worktops. It is advisable to use a propylene edge, then you can do without plastic legs if the floor is even. You can put boxes. The disadvantage, in addition to those common for chipboard, is that if the bed is against the wall, half of the under-bed space disappears, because. in no case should the symmetry of the cross be violated.

A pallet from under building materials is good as the basis of a bed, not only and not so much because it is cheap. Firstly, pallets are made from a fairly high-quality wood, and until they are worn out for sale, it will shrink and dry out no worse than a selected array. Secondly, the pallet experiences the same loads as the bed, but stronger: they carry bricks over potholes on it! So about the strength of the pallet bed, you can, as they say, not hurt your head, just sand them, collect on long self-tapping screws how much and how you need, and finish.

The dimensions of a standard pallet are 100x80 cm, so from 4 you get just a double bed, pos. 1 in fig. The extra half of the boards is enough for fastening, a headboard, and even a bedside table; the rest will play the dynamics just in moderation. Under a soft mattress, it is better to cut out the bars inside to get a bed with a recess, pos. 2; scraps will go to the legs or other crafts, the tree is good. And from the pallets you can, without further ado, dial any podium, pos. 3.

Finally, the dimensions and shape of the pallet roughly correspond to one of the structural modules of the furniture. Whether fans know it or not, homemade pallet furniture is innumerable. Unfortunately, at least for a cursory review of it, a separate publication is needed.

Back to bed

A homemade headboard has an independent meaning: there are much cheaper mattress beds without headboards on sale; their frame is designed for additional loads. Fans make a variety of headboards on their own. Traditional rigid wooden, pos. 1 in Fig., is not bad and hygienic, but it is not always pleasant to feel it with the back of the head or the top of the head. You can give the back some elasticity by performing it on a woven veneer frame, pos. 2, or, in a rustic version, from a wicker, but the wicker back does not fit into every interior and is still not soft. Patchwork back, pos. 3 is quite soft, its aesthetics are determined by the fabric used and can therefore be adapted to any room design. Patchwork back pads are made on plywood shields of approximately 300x300x (4-6) mm using upholstered headboard technology, see below, but simpler: because. the fabric is stretched evenly, double padding of the edges is not necessary.

However, the best results are given by a classic upholstered headboard. For an amateur who does not know all the intricacies of working with upholstery fabrics, so that the upholstery does not wrinkle later, does not stretch, and the filler does not go astray, it should be done with double stitching along the contour, as in pos. 4. Compare pos. 5 and 6. The latter not only wrinkles unsightly, but will soon be rubbed over the scars. Step by step, the soft headboard is made as follows, see next. rice:

1. Foam rubber with a density of 35 or more is glued to the base, covered with batting (better - synthetic winterizer) and pinned along the edge with a furniture stapler. At the bottom, a strip of pure wood (plywood) with a width of 150 mm or more is left to attach to the bed frame;
2. A decorative fabric is also attached to the bottom with a stapler;
3. Curves are circled with it, attaching a stapler to the inside of the back with an indent from the edge of approx. 10 cm;
4. The corners are rounded with notches. It is better for beginners to do this together: one in front monitors the stretch, and the other forms scars in the back, cuts them and attaches flaps (scallops);
5. Decorative trim along the edge is upholstered with furniture nails;
6. A much better technical and aesthetic effect is given by a special decorative chain - furniture tape;
7. With a home-made thickness gauge from a square and a piece of chalk (option - a remnant), the outline of the second row of upholstery is outlined;
8. The upholstery is fastened with a stapler along the inner contour. it is the inner row that holds the entire skin evenly;
9. A decorative stitch is applied with the same furniture tape or nails.

Homemade exclusive

An inclined, and even more so a curved headboard is not only more convenient, but also an indispensable attribute of luxury beds. Meanwhile, it is easy to make it yourself: from a board 150 mm wide (thickness from 30 mm; for plywood from 10 mm), a headboard comes out with an inclination from the vertical of more than 10 degrees, pos. 1 in Fig., and even more than 20 degrees, pos. 2. From the same blanks, a very beautiful bed with a curved headboard is obtained, only its crate needs to be done more often, but from thinner, 25-30 mm, slats, pos. 3.

The backrest is attached to the frame and / or legs of the bed with corners. Its back side, in order to hide the fasteners and for rigidity, is sewn up with a 4-6 mm fiberboard sheet, the blue dotted line in Fig. If the bed is all in sight, decoration is being carried out on it. Something on the front side, then you can put the same shield on it with soft lining or decor, a red dotted line on pos. 4. And you can, by widening the sidewall for strength and abandoning the front crate, sew the back fiberboard from the face and place a completely upholstered headboard in the form of a pillow (pillows) into the resulting pocket.

Note: a curved headboard to maintain the style is better to sheathe fiberboard and front and rear, paint and complement in an oriental way with a mattress / mattresses with tassels.

How about single?

A single bed is about 1.5 times narrower than a double bed. This seriously changes its mechanics with acoustics, so the construction of a single bed is simpler and allows more amateur liberties. There are a wide variety of options for execution, as well as for a children's bed. For example, how to make a single bed over the weekend, the materials for which will take as much as about 1000 rubles, see.

Video: do-it-yourself single bed (under the mattress 190 × 90)

From a bar

A bed entirely made of timber will cost more than the same plank or chipboard, its manufacture will require special tools and a carpentry workshop. If you can do all this, you will end up with a lot of benefits:

• Square and round beams almost do not warp during shrinkage along the length, which facilitates the selection of material.
• It is possible, without fear of loss of strength of the product, to use hidden dowel connections, see fig. on right.
• The bed will give a solid and prestigious look even to a very simple interior, pos. 1 in fig. below.
• The ability to make a bed with floating bedside tables, pos. 2. In amateur conditions, only a massive timber frame will give them reliable support.
• The ability to fully express yourself creatively in any kind of rustic or country design, pos. 3-5.
• And not only in rustic styles: a bed made of scraps of small timber in pos. 6 is laborious, but fits into any interior, and a connoisseur will appreciate it on a par with antiques.

metal in bed

Of bad memory, "soviet" hostel and barracks iron beds with armored mesh, thank God, almost all have sunk into oblivion. Modern metal beds are either piece-handicraft forged at a price of thousands of USD, or their frame is made of a profile pipe with plastic coating, not chilling, not ugly, not traumatic. But the fundamental drawback of metal beds is unremovable: a complete mismatch in mechanical and temperature characteristics with wood and materials based on it. Therefore, in the current metal beds, wood is used only in the form of decorative overlays.

The second serious drawback of the metal is corrosion, and the third is ductility. That is, the welding seams of steel beds of general consumer segments sometimes crack, and the frame elements bend. In addition to the fixing plates mentioned above, the only case where it is difficult to do without metal in a bed is the frame of the lifting mattress made of metal, see fig. Wooden, no matter how pleased at first the product of its creator, is soon loosened.

All? No, not all.

The world of beds is vast and varied and, unfortunately, it is not possible to cover it in one publication. For example, wardrobe beds, sofas and armchairs you probably know. But did you know that the folding back of a not fully retractable bed can also be a coffee table? And that there are accordion beds that regularly serve as bedside tables in anticipation of a guest in the family? What about beds without a mattress? In an apartment - not in an apartment, but it will come in handy in the country, and savings on a mattress alone are at least 10 thousand rubles. Or, say, a bed made of bamboo. Looks chic in an exclusive interior, see fig. But, at least technologically, it is quite accessible for self-production.

Well, let's hope that we will have the opportunity to tell about them and various others, and for you to make the bed of your dreams.

1. Materials and tools
2. Assembling a double bed
3. Headboard Assembly

The furniture market offers a large selection of beds, but you can make this element of the interior on your own.

The article describes how to make a double bed from available materials and components. Solid wood furniture can be inexpensive.

If you are a fan of the old fashioned style and at the same time have welding skills, you can make a bed for a country cottage, a private house or a city apartment from a profile pipe, and decorate the headboard with decorative forging elements. We will consider a more affordable and simple option for creating bedroom furniture, and we suggest that you make a wooden bed from materials that are absolutely safe for health. Below are the drawings of the simplest options, which even a novice master can easily handle.

Materials and tools

You will need:

• assembly diagram;
• sheet plywood;
• PVA glue;
• wooden beam;
• slats;
• self-tapping screws (70 pieces).

You will need glued pine timber with a smooth, flawless surface, 4 x 5 x 200 cm in size (14 pcs.). The size of the planed rails is 2 x 10 x 200 cm (20 pcs.). Before making a bed, you need to buy a sleeping mattress 160 x 200 cm, already make a base for it.

Assembling a double bed

The rectangular frame is assembled from beams. It is necessary to take three bars on each side, fasten them together in height. You will get an equilateral rectangle. If there is concern that the mattress will not fit, it is recommended to assemble the frame with an allowance of 1 cm on each side.

2 bars with a section of 4 x 5 cm, 162 cm long (ends) and the same parts 201 cm long (sides) are laid out on the floor, coated with PVA glue. Immediately after this, the second row of bars is laid on top. Then all the details are fixed with self-tapping screws. The crowns of the bed should not be skewed, they should turn out to be perfectly even.

At the corners, the parts are connected with metal ties. When tightening the self-tapping screws, the glue that did not have time to grab will come out through the holes, so the wood must be cleaned of its excess.

The assembled frame can be set aside, you can start creating an orthopedic slatted base from processed boards 2 cm thick. The slats must be reinforced with a stiffener, it must run in the center of the bed along its entire length. There should be at least 2-3 legs. It is also necessary to make 4 legs for the frame. In the future, they are installed in the corners, securely fixed with fasteners.

For a bed made of boards, you need a base made of slats or slats. Supports are made of wooden beams. The beam is cut into segments corresponding in length to each side of the bed. The support bars are attached at the level of the second row of the frame along the entire inner perimeter. The thickness of the supporting element is sufficient to ensure that the thin rack base is located on it firmly and reliably.

It is recommended to plan the length of the rails with the expectation that a deformation gap should form between them and the frame, preventing cracking of the natural material, excluding its creaking. It is better to mount the slats at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. The step between them should be the same, a template may come in handy. The slats are fixed with self-tapping screws, which are twisted along the edges to the base and in the center to the stiffener. After that, a homemade bed should settle for several days until the glue dries completely.

Next, decorative processing is carried out. First, all parts are polished with a grinder or grinder, including a nozzle with a large grain. Then, with the help of fine-grained emery, fine grinding is carried out along the wood fibers.

After grinding and polishing, they get rid of the dust formed during the processing. In the room in which work with paint and varnish material will be carried out, it is necessary to do wet cleaning.

The furniture is covered with a primer designed to protect wood. Lacquer is applied on top in stages in 2-3 layers with an airbrush, providing a uniform coating.

You can also use a fine-bristled brush.

In the process of varnishing, the bed must be turned over, allowing each layer to dry.

Headboard Assembly

To work, you need a sheet of thick plywood. The result is a plywood element, which is not subject to a special mechanical load. Its strength is sufficient. You also need a dense upholstery fabric, foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, a furniture stapler with staples.

A rectangle of the required size is cut from the plywood sheet with a jigsaw. A layer of foam rubber of any thickness, similar in size, is laid on top of it. Foam rubber can be covered with synthetic winterizer. Then the headboard is pulled up with furniture upholstery fabric.

The piece of fabric should extend at least 15–20 cm onto the back wall.

When fixing the upholstery with a stapler, it is necessary to provide the fabric with a uniform stretch, without creases, ugly folds on the front surface. The headboard is attached to the wall or bed frame. In the first case, the part is equipped with special eyelets-loops. They are hung on self-tapping screws installed in the wall. If the headboard is fixed to the back of the bed, holes are made in its lower part, as in the base of the furniture. Screws are tightened in them, clamped with nuts.

According to the same scheme, a single bed can be equipped with a headboard. Figured headboards decorated using the carriage tie technique will look good. In this case, you will need a stencil, furniture buttons, decorative nails.

There are many types of carriage ties, if you wish, you can choose the one that will decorate the bed, emphasize the style of the room, make it more expressive.

Currently, furniture stores offer a wide variety of furniture, including wooden beds. But the prices, frankly, bite. There are at least three reasons for making a wooden bed with your own hands. This is cost savings, the opportunity to realize your design ideas, as well as irreplaceable pride in having made a useful, beautiful and necessary thing yourself.

Making furniture with your own hands is not an easy task, it requires some skill, knowledge and experience, but do not be afraid to implement it. If the necessary tools are available, the necessary materials are purchased and there is a firm decision that a wooden bed will be made with your own hands, then you should get to work without putting it off.

Required tool

Making a wooden bed with your own hands involves the presence of such tools as a circular table saw, a regular and rubber hammer, a grinder, a square, a chisel, a tape measure, a screwdriver, an electric drill. Materials are also needed: stain, varnish, wood putty, screws, sandpaper, wood glue.

If there is no circular table saw and grinder, then you can do without them - a hacksaw and a bar with sandpaper. But it will be difficult to achieve professional quality woodworking. It seems that if you make a wooden bed with your own hands, and then some other piece of furniture, then you will get a taste and try to purchase these rather expensive, but important tools for high-quality woodworking. Then you will see for yourself how much faster and better your work will be with their use.

Mattress

The main part of the bed is the mattress. Therefore, you have a choice:

Purchase a mattress of the required size and characteristics in the distribution network (a great variety of finished products of this kind are now offered) and make a bed according to its dimensions;
- first make a bed, and then order a mattress of the required size for it.

Both options are eligible for implementation depending on your personal preference. In addition, there is an option to make a mattress yourself. But in this article we will not dwell on it.

In any case, it must be borne in mind that the dimensions of the space under the mattress in the bed frame should be 1-2 centimeters larger (both in width and length) than the dimensions of the mattress. This is due to the fact that it must fit freely in its box, and when loaded on it, it necessarily expands somewhat to the sides.

Another feature: it is desirable to position the bed for the mattress so that it protrudes from the frame by 4-8 cm and does not move when using the bed.

Drawing

So, your goal is to make such a piece of furniture as a wooden bed with your own hands. The drawings needed to achieve your goal are easy to find in specialized literature. Much depends on your design decisions, because a bed made by yourself should differ from those bought by some kind of “highlight”. But this is a business. We will consider the usual model, consisting of legs and a frame. We coordinate its dimensions with the dimensions of the mattress, as indicated above.

The width of the bed depends on the number of beds and the degree of freedom you desire. Usually a single bed has a bed width of 90 cm, a double bed - 170-200 cm. The length of the bed for an adult is from 170 to 220 cm. The height of the frame is 30-50 cm. You set the specific dimensions yourself, based on your preferences, height and others. parameters.

lumber

To complete the frame of a large double bed, you will need:

• timber 10 x 10 cm, length 2.6 m;
• timber 5 x 5 cm, length 2.6 m - 2 pcs.;
• boards 2.5 x 7.5 cm, 2 m long - about 12 pieces;
• boards 5 x 15 cm, length 2.6 m - 5 pcs.

Choose the type of wood yourself. Beech, oak, mahogany, walnut are suitable for making the bed. But this wood is expensive. The most suitable and inexpensive option is pine.

Manufacturing

A wooden bed made with your own hands must be durable and reliable. Let's start with the legs. We cut off two bars from a bar with a section of 10 x 10 cm with a length equal to the height of the bed for the rear legs, saw the rest into two parts of the same length - for the legs at the head. We mark on these parts the places of the grooves where the longitudinal boards of the frame and the transverse boards for attaching the legs will be inserted. The size of the cutouts is 15 x 5 cm. Make sure that the grooves are perpendicular to the length of the bars. We process the upper part of the legs - we chamfer 1 cm along the end of the bars.

We calculate the length and width of the bed. The length is equal to the length of the mattress plus 7 cm. The width is equal to the width of the mattress plus 12 cm. Cut from the boards 5 x 15 cm two parts equal to the length of your bed, and three parts equal to its width. We carefully grind the surfaces of the legs and frame parts. We assemble the frame, starting from the transverse sides of the bed, and then connecting them with longitudinal boards. Fastening is carried out on carpentry glue and fixed with screws 8-10 cm long.

To the inside of the longitudinal sides of the frame, we attach the base for the transverse boards with screws. It is cut out of a bar with a section of 5 x 5 cm. They must be fixed at such a height of the longitudinal boards of the frame that, taking into account the transverse boards laid on them, the mattress bed is deepened by at least 2-3 cm. Cross-section boards are placed on these bars. 2.5 x 7.5 cm, cut to fit the inside width of the frame. They must be distributed evenly along the length of the frame and fixed with screws to the base.

An alternative method of fastening these boards, which gives greater structural strength, is to fasten the transverse boards of the mattress base not horizontally to the base bars, but vertically. In this case, you can do without bars with a section of 5 x 5 cm, and fasten with metal corners, as shown in the figure on the right.

Final actions

So, the bed frame is assembled. Surfaces should be carefully sanded with a grinder, areas where the surface is damaged can be treated with wood putty, allowed to dry and sanded again. After grinding, remove the dust with a dry cloth and vacuum cleaner (do not use a damp cloth - the surface will lose its smoothness). After that, treat the surface with a stain, you can dry it several times between layers to get the darkness and color saturation you want. Then you can cover the surfaces with varnish (matte or glossy - of your choice). To obtain a high-quality surface, the varnish must be applied in three layers.

Put the mattress back in place - your bed is ready.

To give the bed a unique look, you can finish it by complementing the frame with the backs of your design.

When fixing parts to glue, use clamps. For the manufacture of backrests, you can use solid pine, chipboard or MDF sheets 30 mm thick. To give the backs a decorative effect and bulge, they can be covered with a layer of foam rubber up to 15 mm thick, attached with a construction stapler, and draped with a cloth. This is how an exquisite wooden bed is made with your own hands.

Photos of design bed options made by craftsmen and amateurs can be found in large numbers in special literature. The above are just a few samples. They can give you your own ideas on how to make your own bed look unique.

DIY wooden bunk bed

The photo also shows samples of bunk beds. Such designs are very convenient for saving space in the room. The special meaning of making them with your own hands is that in the distribution network there is not such a variety of them as ordinary beds, and it is much more difficult to buy the option you need. These beds are very comfortable for teenage children.

There is great benefit in having a wooden children's bed made by you. With your own hands, it is easier to perform than for an adult - after all, it does not require special strength and durability. And according to the manufacturing technology, it differs in size and in the fact that it is necessary to make backs and side parts that protect the child from falling out of bed.

We hope that the material given in the article on the topic “Do-it-yourself wooden bed” will give you the determination to do such work and benefit your family.

Stylish and cozy bedroom decor is not an easy task. It's good that today there are countless different models of beds, among which you can choose the one that will create your ideal interior. We have selected for you 20 photos of modern bedroom beds, among which you can find your inspiration.

Model DS 1164 by de Sede

This impressive model catches the eye not only with its unusual shape and elegant black leather trim. A special system allows you to move the head of the bed to any side, depending on your needs. Beauty and modern technology in your bedroom.

Laconic model from Zeitraum

This modern bedroom bed is called Simple. The model is offered in two versions. The first is a bed with the most concise design that fits perfectly into a minimalist interior. If you want something more, designers offer a model equipped not only with a soft headboard, but also with a bedside table.

Different options for one bed

The material used for this bed is oak, birch, maple, American cherry and American walnut. Regardless of which wood you choose, the array of each of the listed trees will perfectly emphasize the geometric design of the bed.

Wing System by Presotto

This futuristic model is attached to the wall, so it looks like the bed is floating in the air. This impression is further reinforced by the lighting under the bed. Does the idea seem overwhelming to you? The same model is also available in a traditional form with support on the floor.

Wing System in brown

The model described above is also available in an attractive brown color. The braided pattern on the leather headboard will rhyme perfectly with the knitted bedspread.

Moon by My Home

Great mix of materials. Leather and textiles in a noble light gray shade ensure complete comfort. The birch slatted bed frame guarantees stability, while the lacquered steel legs give the model an even more modern look.

Yang by Minotti

Everything about this bed is well thought out. Its important feature is excellent air circulation. It is provided not only by the use of breathable textiles, which can be removed and washed if necessary, but also by a perforated plywood sheet located under the mattress grate.

1017 by Zanotta

This contemporary bedroom bed was designed by Swedish designer Anna von Scheven. Minimalistic style is manifested in many details - both in the metal base of the bed and in the large upholstered headboard. The Scandinavian character combined with the sea-green Mediterranean walls make the bed even more inviting.

Lov by Desiree

The very name of the model sets us in the right mood: a bed for romantic natures, on which one wants to dream. The cute textile cover is easy to remove and wash.

Vera by Riva

The massif of a tree always gives to an interior of significance. The headboard and footboard are decorated with carved lines that give individuality to each manufactured bed. You determine the size of your bed yourself, because this model is made only to order.

Tufty-Bed by B&B Italia

A distinctive feature of this bed is the original upholstery. Made of leather or textile, the surface is divided into squares, thanks to which the model acquires a modern and elegant look.

DS 1165 by de Sede

The design of this bed is similar to the first model we reviewed. The same black leather and a movable headboard that allows you to change the decor of the bedroom as you wish.

Plio by Nut+Grat

For all its apparent simplicity, this bed will always catch the eye. The laconic but bright design was developed by Adrian and Beate Schnidrig.

Yin-Yang by Andreas Janson

Shall we continue with brevity? In general, this model is a large lattice for a mattress, the distance between the slats in which you determine yourself. The only thing missing is the perfect double mattress!

Cuddle by Alivar

Here it is - an example of a comfortable modern bed for the bedroom. Down-filled headboard cushions provide total comfort. You can upholster the bed with both textiles and leather in delicate light shades.

Moon by Bolzan Letti

This model is produced in three sizes, so you can find the right bed for your bedroom. Feature of this bed - the "chubby" basis upholstered with skin, an imitation leather or textiles. By the way, the manufacturer even gives its customers the opportunity to provide exactly the material with which they want to upholster the bed.

Soft Wood by Riva

The eye-catching design of this modern bed is part of the Soft Wood collection, which also includes a sofa, armchair, chest of drawers and nightstands. The headboard is made in the form of a lattice. The collection was designed by Carlo Colombo especially for Riva.

Jacqueline by Poliform

The decoration of this model are deliberate seams. The discreet design allows the bed to fit into almost any interior.

Gio by Morelato

Straight lines give this model a retro charm. Thanks to the use of a large number of wooden elements, a feeling of naturalness and naturalness is created. Practical cabinets are built into the headboard.