Is it possible to plant trees in May. All about the autumn planting of fruit trees and shrubs. How to plant fruit trees on the site: a diagram

Every spring, the planting season starts in all areas. It starts as soon as the snow melts, and ends by the end of May. There are gardeners who coped with fruit trees and shrubs in the fall. But how right is this and when is it better to plant - in spring or autumn?

Purely theoretically - you can plant a bush at any time of the year, there is even the concept of winter planting of coniferous and ornamental trees. The most important thing for a freshly planted bush is good and tight contact of the root system with the ground. If the roots do not come into contact with the soil, then the plant will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated by the crown.

In winter, it is difficult to ensure high-quality contact of the roots with the ground, since the ground is frozen, and the plant absorbs moisture even in hibernation. Preparation for winter is carried out in the summer, the process is complex and time-consuming, therefore disembarkation is carried out only when necessary, for example, this method is suitable for high (up to 14 meters!) Spruce.

In summer, the problem is increased evaporation of moisture. This disadvantage can be eliminated by frequent abundant watering, but, again, this process is quite laborious. Thus, planting can be done all year round if properly cared for. But why add unnecessary complexity if everything can be done in favorable periods - in spring and autumn?

Best time to land

The optimal time is the period of physiological dormancy, when the trees are hibernating in anticipation of favorable conditions for the growing season. The dormant period begins as soon as the foliage falls from them, and ends when the buds begin to open. They don't care when they are jailed. But there are factors that are important for the gardener. Let's consider them.

Autumn benefits:

a large selection of planting material on the market;
one watering is enough, rains will make up for the lack of moisture;
if the winter is mild, then the culture will begin to recover and grow new roots;
any gardener has a lot of worries, autumn planting will free up time during the hot period.

Cons of autumn:

a cold and snowy winter can destroy a tender and vulnerable seedling;
rodents are also dangerous for young crops;
if the garden is left unattended, freshly planted trees can be stolen.

Spring benefits:

in winter there is enough time to make a plan, to prepare theoretically;
in winter, you can prepare a tool and dig holes;
you don’t have to worry about the seedlings being stolen;
trees get one more year of vegetation.

Cons of spring planting:

watering must be done at least twice - after the procedure and the next day, and if the weather is hot, then the trunk will have to be watered often;
if you are late, then the seedling is difficult to go out;
the choice on the market is less than in autumn.

Thus, you can perform the procedure at any time. Each gardener decides for himself when it will be more convenient for him.

Costs take into account local climatic conditions. In the southern regions, the procedure is best done in the fall. Autumn is long and warm, while spring is too short and hot. In the north, due to the harsh winter, it is worth preferring the spring period. If you did not have time to plant a bush in March – April, put it off until autumn.

Spring Procedure Rules

For a successful landing need to complete set of rules so that the tree can quickly recover and begin to build up an active root system, take root, begin to receive the necessary trace elements and water for the successful development of the crown. To do this, you need to pay attention to 3 aspects: the quality of the seedling, technology and optimal time.

Rules for choosing seedlings:

It is better to buy a seedling in a large company or a specialized gardening farm in order to get advice if necessary.
The tree should have a label with the name of the breed and variety.
The seedling should be beautiful and even, without a skewed crown, twisted trunk, uneven growth of branches. It must have at least 3 skeletal branches.
There must be no signs of disease or damage.
In the presence of a container, the roots should not germinate through the drainage hole.
The earth ball should be proportional to the crown and dense.
There should be no signs of disease on the root system, the roots should not be damaged or overdried.
The foliage on the seedling must be removed.

Choose the time

Best time to land seedlings with a closed root system, in containers or with an earthen clod, end of May - beginning of June. At this time, active root growth occurs. Bare-rooted seedlings do better than bare-rooted trees, as severe root damage is unlikely.

Plants with an open root system it is recommended to plant when they are at rest, the buds do not swell and begin to grow. This period begins around the end of April - beginning of May.

seedlings with exposed roots should be planted immediately after purchase. If this is not possible, then the seedling should be laid in a small hole at an angle and sprinkled with earth. Choose a shady place.

Conifers are purchased exclusively with a closed root system. They tolerate transplanting worse, so it is recommended to do this early, in March – April.

The spring procedure period is short. As soon as the earth warms up, plants can be planted, but exactly until the moment when bud growth begins. This period is only 3 weeks and falls, depending on the latitude, in April – May. If you did not have time to buy seedlings, postpone the renewal of the garden until the fall.

They demand exactly spring planting thermophilic plants- plum, apricot, cherry, sweet cherry, cherry plum, not winter-hardy varieties of apple trees and pears.

Process

Properly done, it has a positive effect on the survival rate of seedlings. Consists of ten steps:

Landing is more convenient to produce in pairs. The first person will hold the seedling and carefully straighten the roots along the mound, and the other will fill the hole starting from the edges and carefully compact the earth with his foot. For preventing void formation between the roots, the seedling must be shaken. Upon completion, at the borders of the pit, pour a roller of earth.

In conclusion, a few more tips regarding the proper planting of fruit crops in the spring.

Early spring is perhaps the best time for planting fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. If this is part of your plans for the new season, you have probably already thought about buying seedlings and choosing a new "place of residence" for them. Or maybe even bought planting material - all kinds of plants have already appeared on sale in supermarkets and garden centers.

It is quite possible that you have various questions - after all, even experienced summer residents are constantly learning, acquiring new knowledge. And I hope today review of useful publications, devoted to the selection of seedlings and their planting, will help you find the right answers and the right solutions for your tasks.

A bit of theory

Let's start, as usual, with a small theoretical part. In the article you will find the necessary information about the general concepts and principles of propagation of perennial crops by division and cuttings, the selection and processing of planting material. And the article will help to avoid annoying oversights that can nullify all our efforts to create a beautiful garden.

General rules for choosing seedlings and planting

The rules for selection and planting for individual groups of plants are largely similar. They should definitely be studied if you are embarking on this responsible task for the first time, but experienced gardeners may also take note of the recommendations of our authors.

What a cottage without fruit trees! Even if you already have a garden, it may need rejuvenation, or you just want to add new varieties, acquire new crops. Before you go shopping, take a look at the articles and - it will take a little time, but it can save you from serious mistakes.

And the video material from the Alina Rabushko Garden Center will tell you in detail about all the nuances of planting trees:

Another useful video is presented by the Struninsky nursery. Rules for planting seedlings of fruit trees (apples, cherries, cherries, plums, pears, cherry plums) from professionals

But a garden is not only trees, of course. And although many of the principles for choosing and planting seedlings of trees and shrubs are similar, there are some differences that you can read about in the article.

Conifers have their own important nuances, which are often considered capricious and demanding. To successfully cope with their difficult nature, this short video will also help:

Well, for those who are landscaping a country pond, they can be useful.

Some types of fruit and berry crops: planting features

Even knowing by heart the general rules, we can face difficulties and problems when planting a particular culture - after all, each has its own requirements, its own characteristics that need to be known and taken into account. A small selection of articles about the most common fruit and berry trees and shrubs will help both beginners and experienced summer residents successfully cope with planting and subsequent plant care:

A little about roses

Roses are the favorite of many gardeners. And when seedlings appear on sale, it can be difficult to resist, even if there were no plans to buy another rose for a summer residence. And then the question often arises: how to save your purchase until planting, especially if the cold drags on. Answers and tips can be found in the article. And the video material from Garden World will help to save not only roses, but also other planting material, until the time comes to plant it in the country:

Well, just before planting roses in the garden, it may be useful to watch a short video presented by the Greensad garden center, which tells about all the stages of this process:

And for those who do not yet use hydrogel, a detailed description of how to prepare and use this product when planting plants with an open root system can be very useful. In the article and comments to it, practitioners share their experience.

Have you started planting season yet? What have you already planted or plan to plant? Perhaps you have questions that were not answered in the materials of our review - ask them in the comments.

Planting fruit trees is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Here you need to buy seedlings correctly, and prepare the place, and carry out all the necessary care activities. So that the trees you planted not only take root, but also give an excellent result in the form of a rich harvest, study the tips we have given.

So that you do not have problems growing fruit trees in the future, it is better to purchase seedlings in specialized stores or nurseries. There is one important tip - try to choose seedlings of those varieties that are suitable for growing in your area. Since when buying "overseas varieties" there is a high probability that such plants simply will not take root in your area.

Be careful when buying seedlings and pay attention to the following indicators.

ground water

If we are talking about vigorous seedlings with a long root system, then the depth of groundwater should be at least three meters. For semi-dwarf varieties, this figure should be no more than 2.5 m, and when planting dwarf fruit trees, the depth should be at the level of one and a half meters.

Soil quality

You should not choose a place for planting apple trees at random, because of which the trees may develop weakly, begin to bear fruit late or not take root at all. When choosing a place, you should focus on the requirements of cultures. For example, if you are going to plant apple trees, then for these plants you should choose forest soils, black soil, sod-podzolic soil.

Pears grow best on sandy loam, loam or slightly podzolized soils. Cherries prefer light loam.

illumination

For the normal development of the tree and the high-quality fruiting of fruit trees, they need high-quality lighting - the more sun, the larger the fruits will be. That is why it is best to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, choosing a place protected from the wind.

Square

The site must be selected after you have counted the number of seedlings. After that, determine that there should be a distance of about 7 m between the trees. If the trees grow thicker, this will lead to the fact that they will begin to grow not in breadth, but at the top and, when intertwined with branches, will begin to shade each other.

Age of seedlings

It is best to choose seedlings that are not yet two years old. To determine the age, you just need to study the planting material - on the seedlings suitable for us, there will be no branches on the trunk. Also, you should not choose trees that have branches, the roots are dry, there are growths on the stems - most likely, such seedlings are sick or old.

Own-rooted or grafted seedlings

It is best to purchase grafted seedlings, especially if you will be planting pear or apple trees. To understand if the seedling was grafted, pay attention to the trunk - it should be slightly curved.

Choosing the right time to plant trees

The timing of planting depends on the biological characteristics of the plant, climatic conditions. Pears and apples, for example, can be planted either in early spring or early autumn. But let's look at each season in more detail.

Spring

Spring planting begins immediately after the ice melts and should be completed two weeks before the appearance of the "eyes". When planting such fruit trees as pears, apple trees and cherries, it is necessary to choose a natural fertilizer - manure, which is applied directly to the hole before planting. After a couple of weeks, when the plant takes root, add growth activators to the ground.

Autumn

Fruit trees planted in autumn will take root almost 100%. This is due to the conditions: loose and moist soil, fairly warm weather - this is what contributes to the survival of plants. The main thing is not to forget to insulate the plants so that the frost does not destroy the young plantings.

Winter

Work in winter can only be carried out if we are talking about large-sized plants, but young seedlings are not planted in frozen soil - they will die.

Summer

Gardeners strictly do not recommend carrying out such work in the summer, because due to the heat, the root system of plants will not have enough moisture, which is why the survival rate drops sharply. Thus, the trees planted during this period will simply die.

Planting fruit trees in spring - step by step instructions

In order for the trees to take root, grow and yield a crop in a couple of years, you should carefully study our advice and plant according to a given pattern.

Land preparation

Clean the selected area of weeds using mechanical control methods or the use of herbicides. Be sure to plow the land deep and add organic matter and mineral supplements to it (this process is called cultivation).

Well preparation

If you decide to plant in the spring, then the pits for seedlings should be prepared in the fall. To do this, make a square hole about 60 cm deep and up to 1.5 m in diameter for each seedling. Place old leaves, plant tops, cut branches in the resulting pit, cover it all with earth on top and leave until spring.

If you are going to carry out work in the fall, then prepare the holes in about a month and a half. Make holes for planting, put a layer of broken brick or river sand on the bottom, cover it all with a layer of rotted manure or peat on top, add mineral fertilizers. It remains to close the pit with a layer of earth and humus up to 10 cm thick.

An important point: some gardeners smooth the walls of the pit with a shovel, tamping the ground. Doing this is strictly not recommended, because it impairs the access of oxygen to the roots and limits the appearance of new roots.

Planting seedlings

After the soil settles a little, drive a wooden stake into the center of the hole - due to the stable support, the seedlings will not sway in the wind, which means that there will be no voids destructive for the trees between the soil and the roots.

The day before planting, remove broken branches from the seedlings, and cut the roots a little with a pruner.

An important rule when planting: the root neck of the seedling should be located above ground level. If it is deepened, this will lead to rotting of the bark and death of the plant.

To determine the root collar, just look at the seedling - this is the border on the bark, where it "flows" from green to brown. Also, when planting at a seedling, carefully straighten the roots and sprinkle them with soil. Do not forget to shake the plant a little so that the resulting voids between the roots are filled with soil. This will prevent them from drying out.

After planting, lightly compact the soil and pour it with a small stream of water - about 3 liters of liquid per tree. After the soil settles a little, water again.

For the first couple of years after planting, trees need to be looked after and simple care measures taken. So, you can not do without moderate, but regular watering, top dressing, loosening the soil and weed control. For example, in hot weather, after each watering or rain, the soil around the seedling needs to be loosened.

Be sure to mulch the soil around the trunk. It is best to use cut grass cereals, which will perform the following functions:

Aeration of the root system of fruit trees.
Weed protection.
Protection against freezing of the earth and roots.
Supply of organic matter.
Prevention of the appearance of an earthen crust.

True, it should be remembered that too wet soils do not need to be mulched - this can lead to rotting of the roots. In autumn, trees need to be insulated, protecting them from frost, for which you can use either coniferous "legs" or burlap. The first option also scares away rabbits and hares, who will not mind eating young bark.

Pear, apple and cherry are the most popular fruit trees in Russia. Let's look at the basic rules for their landing on the site.

Apple tree

If you have chosen early-growing varieties, then they usually bloom in the first year after planting, but the trees will not be fully developed, therefore, by the fall they will not be able to form a full-fledged crop.

For good survival, the buds of the trees are best cut off before they bloom.

Among the most adapted varieties of these fruit trees, the following are distinguished:

Antonovka.
Brown new.
Oval.
Candy.

Pear

Most varieties of pears are quite undemanding to the composition of the soil, but all the same, these trees will take root better and give good yields when planted in fertile soil. Also remember that young pear seedlings can die from drought, so they need to be watered abundantly in the first two years after planting.

Among the most popular varieties of pears are:

Lada.
Nectar.
Allegro.

Cherry

When planting cherries, you need to carefully approach the choice of location, since the quality and quantity of its fruiting depend on it. Remember also that the root system of this tree is located close to the soil surface, and therefore is very sensitive to drought. For the same reason, loosening the soil should be carried out as carefully as possible.

It is best to choose the following varieties of cherries:

Shubinka.
Robin.
Generous.

In contact with

Considering the purchase of a seedling as an ultra-long-term investment, one should also remember that its effectiveness will also depend on the planting site, the quality of planting and subsequent care.

When to plant trees in spring?

Tree planting can be done in the fall (after the leaves fall), but most gardeners still prefer to do it in the spring (before bud break). The weather at this time is cool, and therefore the plants in the new place have time to take root before the spring rains and summer heat begin to stimulate the active growth of the above-ground parts.

However, if the tree seedlings have been grown in a nursery, and if they are transported correctly and carefully, they can be planted at any time during the growing season.

At the same time, it is also necessary to remember that proper planting and care is the key to a healthy future for the plant.

It should also be remembered that when digging, a seedling can receive a so-called transplant shock, which is expressed in a slowdown in growth and weakening of the plant after planting.

Carefully follow eight simple steps and you can significantly reduce the stress experienced by the plant during planting.

The pit for planting a seedling should be shallow, but at the same time wide. Make the hole wide, three times the diameter of the ball or roots of the seedling, but in no case deeper than its height. The width of the hole is important because the roots of the newly planted tree will grow into the surrounding soil. In some areas (after construction), the soil is compacted and unsuitable for normal root growth. Digging the soil over a large area around the tree allows young roots to germinate freely into loose soil, which in turn will speed up their establishment.
We determine the location of the root neck (basal thickening of the trunk). The root neck is where the trunk thickens and the first lateral roots begin. This place after landing should be partially visible (see picture). If, before planting, the beginning of the root collar is not visible at the seedling with a clod (or in a container), then you will have to remove some of the soil on top of the clod. Otherwise, you will not be able to determine how deep you need to dig a hole.
Place the tree at the correct height. Before placing the seedling in the hole, check that it has indeed been dug to the required depth - but no more! Most of the roots of a newly planted tree will develop in the top 30 cm of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, the new roots will grow and develop quite slowly. It is much better to plant a tree 5 to 8 cm higher than the original level than at or below the original level. This is due to the fact that the seedling will sag in the future, approximately at such a distance (see figure). To avoid damage when placing a seedling in a hole, always lift it behind the clod and never by the trunk.
Level the tree in the hole. Before backfilling the hole, have your helper look at the tree from several directions (especially from key viewpoints) to make sure the tree is standing straight and facing the viewpoints in the desired direction (although some prefer the original cardinal orientation). In the process of backfilling, it will be much more difficult to move a tree in a hole.
Fill the hole gently but firmly. To fill the hole, use the soil that you took out when you dug it. Soil additives can be used when the existing fertile soil layer is completely broken. In cases where there is still a need to add soil, then only soil similar to the one available in terms of particle size distribution should be added. We fill the pit by one third and carefully, but tightly fill the voids around the coma with soil. Further, if the seedling has a lump wrapped in burlap, netting, etc., cut and remove the burlap, metal mesh, tie ropes or wire from the trunk and at least the upper third of the lump (see picture). Try not to damage the trunk and roots. Fill in the rest of the hole, carefully compacting the soil to eliminate voids that could cause the roots to dry out. To avoid this, add soil little by little and spill it with water. Continue this process until the hole is completely filled and the tree is stable. It is not recommended to fertilize the planting hole during planting.
Place supports if needed. If the tree is properly grown and dug up in a nursery, props for support in most cases (excluding large seedlings, of course) are not necessary. Research shows that trees take root faster and develop a stronger trunk and root system if they are not propped up at the time of planting. However, in order to protect the seedlings from damage by lawn mowers, vandals or wind overturning, they are necessary in some situations. If the props are needed specifically for support, then two pegs comparable in thickness to the stem of the seedling are used, together with a wide flexible garter material, for example, with a canvas sling. This design keeps the tree upright, allows for some movement and minimizes damage to the trunk (see picture). These props and strappings are removed after a year of growth of the seedling in a new place.
Mulch the trunk circle. Mulch is an organic material, crushed to the required fraction and laid out in the necessary layer on the tree trunk. It acts as a protective layer that retains moisture, equalizes temperature fluctuations on the soil surface, both up and down, and inhibits the growth of herbaceous plants, which reduces competition from lawn grasses and weeds. Good mulching materials are forest floor (litter), dry straw, shredded bark, peat chips or wood chips. The layer of mulching material should be 5 - 10 cm. A larger layer reduces the access of oxygen and retains too much moisture. When distributing mulching material around the trunk, make sure that the trunk itself and the root neck are not covered with it, that is, that they remain free. If this condition is ignored, rot may appear on the trunk and root collar. The distance between the mulched surface and the root collar of 3 - 5 cm is quite enough to avoid this problem.
Provide aftercare. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. Waterlogging causes yellowing or leaf fall. Water the trees at least once a week and more often when temperatures are warm. When the soil dries out below the level of the mulch layer, watering can be done. Continue watering until autumn, reducing their frequency and intensity as daytime temperatures drop. Tree care also includes pruning branches damaged during transplantation. Try to prune as little as possible during and immediately after planting, postponing necessary corrective or structural pruning for at least a year after planting in a new location.

After completing these eight simple steps, continued care and favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or shrub will grow and prosper. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees are a lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages.

Plant health as an alternative

Maintaining the established landscape is a complex undertaking. You may need a professional plant health and care program, which many landscape companies now provide. Such a program is designed to maintain plant health and should initially include regular inspections to identify and correct any existing problems that could lead to tree damage or death. Thus, regular inspections and preventive measures will keep the plants healthy and beautiful.

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