Secrets of mounting high beds: from the choice of boards to giving the original shape. High beds: how and from what to make What beds can be made

Traditional cultivation of the land requires a lot of time and physical strength, and the harvest is not always as expected. That is why more and more gardeners are equipping high beds on their plots, allowing them to get an excellent harvest of vegetables every year without much effort. Anyone can make high beds with their own hands, because this does not require special skills or special equipment.

Compared to conventional beds, bulk beds have many more advantages:

  • a vegetable garden can be set up even on a plot that is completely unsuitable for agriculture;
  • digging and weeding the garden are replaced by light loosening of the soil;
  • in a limited space it is easier to remove weeds;
  • a high bed is easy to mount and just as easy to disassemble;
  • between the beds you can lay out paths and walk along them in any weather;
  • plants ripen faster, which is especially important for cold regions;
  • when arranging a high bed, good drainage is provided;
  • crops in the beds are easy to protect from frost by covering with a tarpaulin or agrofibre.

In addition, a garden of bulk beds can be very decorative, so you can break it up next to the house.

Fencing materials

A high bed is a frame of a certain size, the interior of which is filled with soil, compost and fertilizers. Most often, the frame is made of a rectangular shape, and it is assembled from boards, slate, branches, plastic and other materials.

Wood is the most affordable, easy-to-install and environmentally friendly material. To assemble the beds, boards, timber, small logs are used. Disadvantages: wood requires, quickly darkens and loses its attractiveness, short-lived.

Vine and rods are an inexpensive and original solution. Wicker walls look very attractive, you can give the garden any shape. Disadvantages: weaving a vine requires skills, the service life of such a frame is very short.

Stone and brick - an option for sites with classical architecture. Very reliable and durable material, gives the beds a decorative look. Disadvantages: high cost, it will take more time to create a bed, it is difficult to dismantle.

Plastic is a great alternative to wood. Sheet plastic is easy to assemble and disassemble, it is strong enough, has an attractive appearance, is very durable and relatively inexpensive. Disadvantages: certain types of plastic contain harmful substances, so they are not suitable for the garden. Environmentally friendly material has an appropriate certificate, which must be presented upon purchase.

Metal is a convenient and durable material, ideal for curly beds. If necessary, it will not be difficult to move the metal frame, as well as dismantle it. The appearance of the metal walls is neat, they can be painted in any color or painted with ornaments. Disadvantages: the skills of a welder are required to assemble a metal curb, the price of sheet metal is quite high, high-quality surface treatment is required to protect against corrosion.

- an excellent solution for multi-tiered beds or arranging a vegetable garden on a slope. The walls can be made monolithic or assembled from separate ones. The concrete surface is easy to decorate, it is as strong as possible, durable, has a neat appearance. Disadvantages: lengthy installation process, high cost of materials, additional requirements for the drainage system.

Making beds with slate is quite a budget and simple option. You can install the walls very quickly, such material lasts for a long time, for decorativeness the slate can be painted in any color. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the material, so when installing it should be handled with care.

Each gardener selects the size and shape of the bulk beds at his own discretion. And yet, there are optimal parameters for which the garden bed will be most effective:

  • height from the ground 15-50 cm;
  • width 90-120 cm;

If the bed is poured on fertile soil, it is made 15-20 cm high. This is quite enough for a good harvest. If the soil on the site is not suitable for farming, the bed is raised up to 30 cm. Compost beds are made even higher - up to 0.5 m. Sometimes the walls are raised very high, which allows you not to bend down during tillage and planting, but this increases material consumption and takes more time to arrange the garden. In addition, with a large width of the frame, it is inconvenient to cultivate the soil at such a height.

The bed should be wide enough for two rows of plants. With this planting, all plants will receive the same amount of air and sunlight, which has a very positive effect on productivity. More rows causes average plants to get less air, shade, stretch upwards, and yield drops. It is also much easier to process a standard-width bed than one that is too wide.

The length of the bulk bed does not play a special role, therefore it is limited only by the size of the plot. The most common option is beds with a length of 1.5 to 3 m; they are compact, look neat in the garden.

The right arrangement of a high bed

For example, a garden bed with a fence made of boards is taken; this option is the most convenient and inexpensive.

In the process of work you will need:

  • bayonet shovel;
  • roulette;
  • drill or screwdriver;
  • building level;
  • circular saw or jigsaw;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • boards 50x200 mm;
  • timber 50x50 mm;
  • primer;
  • building network.

Step 1. Wood processing

The boards are cut to the size of the frame, after which they are coated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation. You can use used oil for these purposes, and so that harmful substances do not penetrate the soil, after processing, it is recommended to cover the tree on one side with a film. Especially carefully process the lower edges of the boards that will be in contact with the ground. The beam is sawn into pieces 50 cm long and also impregnated with a protective agent. After that, the building material is laid out to dry.

Step 2. Site preparation

The plot under the bed should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours a day. Mark the boundaries of the beds, remove stones and branches, dig up perennials. If desired, you can dig the soil along with fine grass - this will increase the permeability of the soil. If the soil is very dense, trampled down, it is enough to remove the turf layer along the marking perimeter to a shallow depth in order to more conveniently expose the frame.

Step 3. Assembling the frame for the beds

Dried boards are knocked down in pairs into shields and interconnected with the help of bars. The height of the shields is equal to the height of the beds, the long sides of the frame are additionally reinforced with transverse bars in the center. Since the length of the bars is greater than the height of the walls, they should protrude 10 cm above the frame. These will be the legs of the frame. To improve the appearance of the structure, boards laid flat are stuffed along the perimeter of the frame, the edges of which are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. In conclusion, the frame can be painted from the outside.

Step 4. Installation of the structure

The finished frame is transferred to the installation site; expose the structure according to the markup, make recesses for the legs, check the location of the beds with a building level. If necessary, put pegs or, conversely, take out excess soil. The structure should stand as evenly as possible, all corners on the same level. Finally, soil is poured around the perimeter of the walls and compacted so that there are no gaps left.

Step 5. Filling the beds

First, the bottom is covered with a construction mesh and nailed along the edges to the walls of the frame. The mesh will protect the structure from the penetration of moles and mice. Then geotextiles are laid, which will not allow weeds to germinate. Next, filling the beds is performed in layers:

  • small branches, bark, large chips, leaves;
  • bird droppings, rotted manure or;
  • fallen leaves, branches, bark, grass;
  • mineral fertilizer;
  • fertile land.

The thickness of each layer is 10 cm. It is not necessary to mix the layers, but it is necessary to level and compact well. If the soil on the site is not of very good quality, it is better to use purchased soil. After filling, the bed is well spilled with water and left for a couple of days. During this time, the layers will settle a little and compact. From above, it is recommended to cover the frame with black agrofibre, which provides better heating of the soil and prevents weeds from germinating.

It is recommended to make high beds in the fall or at the end of summer, so that the layers are well rotted and the roots of the plants receive a maximum of useful substances. If the beds are mounted in the spring, it is necessary to fill them at least a month before planting and pour plenty of water several times to compact. It is easy to turn such a structure into a greenhouse: for this, plastic or metal arcs are installed above the frame, the ends of which are fixed to the walls with bolts. A plastic film or a special agrofibre is attached to the arcs from above.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

The device of beds from slate

For the device of bulk beds, you can use both flat and wavy slate. The technology of mounting the beds in this way is very simple and everyone can do it.

Table. wave slate

For work you will need:

  • slate sheets;
  • Bulgarian;
  • bayonet shovel;
  • a piece of chalk or a pencil;
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • rubber mallet;
  • drill;
  • wooden pegs or metal rods.

Step 1. Markup

On the selected site, the boundaries of the beds are marked and beacons are installed. Narrow grooves are dug around the perimeter to the depth of the bayonet. If the soil is good, then they remove the entire fertile layer inside the markup, pouring it out not far from future beds.

Step 2. Material preparation

Slate sheets are laid on a flat surface, measure the desired length and draw a line across the waves with chalk. After that, the grinder cuts the slate along the lines. The pegs are impregnated with bituminous mastic or used oil, and if scraps of metal rods are used as racks, they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Step 3 Installing the Frame

The first sheet of slate is installed vertically in the groove from the marking angle. Then they put the next sheet with an overlap in one wave, level it, knock it out on top with a rubber mallet so that both sheets are at the same height. Check the location of the upper edge of the slate with a building level, if necessary, add or remove soil from below. The walls are reinforced with metal rods or pegs, which are driven in on both sides to a depth of 0.5 m. So, all the sheets of the frame are placed in turn, the trench is covered and the horizontal level is checked again. After that, the soil at the walls is rammed, the excess is removed.

Step 4. Filling the beds

At the very bottom, you can lay old newspapers, cardboard, pieces of wallpaper, the next layer is chopped brushwood, tree bark, sawdust. After that, small chips are poured, plant waste, peat or compost are laid. And from above all this is sprinkled with the soil that was taken out at the very beginning. Plentifully water the bed to wet all the layers, and leave for several days. When the bed is compacted, you can start planting.

Garden care

When the plants sprout, plantings should be well watered and mulched. Weeds that have broken through the mulch layer are immediately removed. After harvesting, the surface is loosened and sown with green manure. Before the onset of cold weather, all vegetation is mowed, leveled in the garden, covered with a layer of earth on top and covered with a black film for the winter. Periodically, it is necessary to inspect the walls of the frame, replace or repair individual sections.

The soil between the beds is most often covered with small gravel, gravel, straw, sometimes sown with lawn grass. In such conditions, the garden always remains well-groomed, weeds do not grow, dirt does not stick to shoes. At will it is possible from a tile and a brick, or to fill in concrete.

Video - Do-it-yourself high beds

Video - High slate beds

Why is it convenient to have high beds in the country?

First of all, high beds help to accelerate the ripening of fruits, thereby increasing productivity, and the process of caring for them is simplified.

High beds do not require constant digging, loosening is enough, moreover, the aesthetic appearance, for example, of flowering cucumbers, will resemble a flower bed - these are the main advantages of high beds.

In addition, such beds can protect your plantings from the invasion of moles and other rodents.

Is this not enough?

High beds in the country can have a different configuration and device, they can be on the surface of the earth or recessed into the ground.

Creating a high bed

To create a high bed box, prepare building materials (brick, slate) or lumber, suitable wooden boards, 4-5 cm thick, beams, logs sawn lengthwise can be used. Don't skimp on the material. If you use wooden materials, then they must first be treated from decay and pests. Stuff vertical posts along the walls from the outside to strengthen the structure (you can tie the frame with wire). Sheathe the inside of the walls with a thick film or roofing material for moisture insulation. Cover the bottom with a wire or plastic mesh with small cells to protect plants from moles and mice. It is convenient when the width of the high bed is 100-150 cm, adjust the height yourself so as not to burden your back (75-90 cm), make the length depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot.

Make an in-depth high bed in the country:


On high beds of this configuration, cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, tomato, and eggplant grow well. Radishes, lettuce and Chinese cabbage tend to accumulate nitrates in themselves, so growing these crops in the first few years is not recommended. It is not necessary to fertilize for 2-3 years.

High garden bed without deepening

The manufacturing technology of a high bed without deepening is the same.

The design is made from any improvised material.

The only difference is its filling: first, drainage is laid, then geotextiles, since it does not rot, mold does not appear, roots cannot “break through” it, do not damage acids and alkalis.

The last main layer is soil with hydrogel (non-toxic material, absorbs and retains moisture, does not change properties for 5 years, regardless of temperature exposure).

Take into account the fact that when creating a high bed in the country, crops require more thorough watering. After a few years, the top fertile layer of soil will need to be poured into the high beds.

High hilly ridge - earth embankment

Another type of high bed in the country is an earthen embankment that will last you 5-6 years. It is necessary to deal with its creation in the fall, so that by spring it can settle. The top of the central part of the bed rises above the surface of the earth by about 80 cm, the edges seem to slide towards the surface of the earth. The width of such a bed is usually up to 2 m, the length is optional and the allowable area.

It is easy to make a high hilly ridge in the form of an earthen embankment:


crests

This type of high bed is suitable if the cottage has clay soil with spring standing water and a shallow fertile layer (up to 15 cm). Dig up the soil and cut with a shovel ridges 60-70 cm wide with a slope of 45-50 °. In drought, the edges will dry out, so on light soil the edges of the ridge should be gentle, on heavy soil - steep. It is better to cut in the fall, when you are digging up the soil. In spring, snow quickly melts from the ridges, the earth warms up faster, and the development of plants occurs earlier. It is best to plant seedlings on the ridges.

The knoll bed has the advantages of loose soil structure, higher temperature, which allows some early crops to be planted even earlier than usual.
The density of plantings here is not so terrible due to less shading of plants. There will be no stagnation of water on the mounded bed, the water will pass into the inner layers of the earth, which the roots will be immensely happy about. Place early crops first, then zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers. In the second year, plant, cauliflower, tomatoes. Plant carrots, eggplant, and peppers the following year. In the fourth year, safely plant salad crops, radishes, parsley, spinach.

Disadvantages of a mounded bed: in the first year, you can not plant leaf and head lettuce, cabbage, spinach, beets, radishes and chard, since all these crops tend to accumulate nitrates in themselves in the form of nitrogen, which in the first year will be released as much as possible during the decomposition of organic matter , it is best to leave their landing somewhere in the 4th year.

In the 5th year, in the spring, the knoll bed is fed with 2-3 cm thick compost. Planted with legumes. In the 6th year, you create a new bed in a new place.

Features of planning high ridges in the country and caring for them

Before building high beds, pay attention to:

  • high ridges and rolling ridges are best suited for wet, undrained, clayey soils with less than 1 meter water depth;
  • direction from north to south, for a slope - from the south across the slope for even distribution of sunlight;
  • the main direction of the wind (hang a piece of cloth on a tree or stick and watch it a little);
  • if necessary, make a windproof structure in the form of flat high beds planted with wild dwarf trees or tall plants (hemp, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke), this is if the height of the beds is expected to be more than 1.5 m;
  • it is better not to place high ridges parallel to the slope, otherwise the top will absorb water, and the bottom may be left without water at all, so when placing hilly beds, also consider the direction of wastewater;
  • if the soil is heavy, wet, then make an additional drain by digging a moat;
  • if the soil is dry sandy, then the water will remain in the layers of the ridge on its own, which is undoubtedly good;
  • when planting plants on high hilly ridges, consider the method of processing row spacing;
  • when weeds appear, simply pull them out with their roots (best during the day in hot sunny weather) and leave them to “rest” in the aisles with their roots up. You can mulch with straw and hay, so you always keep the soil moist.

Before each gardener with the advent of spring, the question arises of how to equip the beds so that the crops have all the conditions for development and fruiting. In addition, the correct arrangement of the beds greatly facilitates their care.

Recently, high beds made using a frame made of boards are gaining popularity. However, not everyone has the opportunity to build them due to the lack or shortage of wood material. Do not despair, because there are many more ways to make beds in the garden without the use of boards.

Most often, a garden is planned using the following beds:

  • standard;
  • narrow;
  • high.

Standard beds

Such beds are located at the same height as the garden, do not protrude above the soil and do not go deep into it. The location of the beds, their width and length depend only on the preferences of the gardener. The distance between the rows is usually made no more than 50 cm in order to gain access to plants for care. To mark the beds, pull the rope or use a special garden marker.

Standard beds are good to do on flat areas that are evenly lit by the sun.

narrow beds

For arranging narrow beds, only a flat surface of the site with good lighting is suitable. Their feature is a rather large row spacing (up to 1 m), despite the fact that the width of the beds themselves is only 45 cm. Narrow beds rise slightly above the soil surface (by 20 cm).

In the place where it is planned to break the beds, they dig up the earth and apply fertilizers (the aisles themselves are not fertilized):

  • dolomite flour;
  • mineral complex.

This type of beds is also called beds according to the Mittlider method - the scientist who invented it. To increase the yield on high beds, he recommended regularly watering them and applying commercially manufactured top dressings, excluding compost and manure.

Raised beds (without the use of boards)

To arrange high beds, a frame 90 cm high and 120 cm wide is pre-mounted, which is filled with nutrient soil. Raised beds may vary in size. The basis of the frame, in addition to the boards, are:


Stationary slate beds - video

This article describes all the intricacies of the process during which high beds are created in the country with their own hands: photos and detailed descriptions of the technology, types of structures, their purpose and features, advantages and disadvantages. The specificity of vertical products intended for growing strawberries, cucumbers and other crops, recommendations for their manufacture.

Do-it-yourself high beds in the country: photoand design features

The construction of high beds opens up new opportunities for growing crops in the garden. A similar approach to organizing plantings allows you to create an interesting design on the site, effectively grow berries, fruits and vegetables. It becomes possible to get an excellent harvest from a site whose soil is not particularly fertile.

Warming up tall structures is much faster than conventional beds. The process of caring for plants is simplified because a person does not need to bend too low.

Note! Organic matter is used as a filler for high beds. Due to the fact that the roots of plants are located in a nutrient medium, crops grow faster and give a rich harvest.

Features of high beds: the pros and cons of designs

The construction of such structures is accompanied by minimal costs, so summer residents prefer to make high beds for strawberries and vegetables.

Advantages of raised structures:

  • the availability of a crop does not depend on the quality and composition of the soil on the site. Thanks to this, summer residents and gardeners can grow plants in areas with a rocky surface or heavy clay soil;
  • beds simplify the process of cultivating the land, do not require enhanced care. You only need to dig the ground twice. The first time in the spring, when the plant is planted, the second time the procedure is done in the fall after harvesting;
  • for processing, it is not necessary to dig deep into the soil, it is enough to stir the soil with a garden fork;

  • the manufacture of high beds is as simple as possible, as is the procedure for dismantling them. The placement of structures can be easily changed if you want to create a new design on the site;
  • the space inside the product is limited, so it is not difficult to remove weeds;
  • the accelerated ripening of vegetables in high beds is facilitated by a good drainage system, which is organized inside the structure;
  • the soil in the high beds is protected from freezing, which often happens in the spring when frosts return. During early autumn frosts, it is enough just to cover the plantings with tarpaulin or polyethylene so that they do not die;
  • the construction of high beds for strawberries allows you to save the berries from being washed away by downpours, which often destroy the crop.

There are few design flaws. They consist in the need for enhanced mineral dressing and frequent watering. You will also need to keep an eye on the bear. This pest loves to settle on high beds.

How to make a high bed in the country with your own hands: common technologies

The following types of beds are most in demand among the owners of summer cottages:

  • bulk gardens of a triangular shape;
  • multi-tiered structures;
  • bulk beds of a trapezoidal shape;
  • decorative gardens.

Note! For the arrangement of high beds does not require large expenses. Many summer residents use improvised materials for these purposes. In most cases, it is enough to buy bricks to create high beds, as well as a mixture that improves soil quality and drainage.

For the construction of a high bulk garden of a triangular shape, only a shovel is needed. Dimensional parameters of the beds are selected taking into account which plants will be grown. The size of the root system of crops is taken into account. The maximum allowable height of the bulk garden is 0.3 m, the width is about 0.7 m. In the process of filling the bed with soil, it is not necessary to compact the ground.

A similar scheme is used to create a trapezoidal bed. The upper part of the bulk garden should not exceed 0.3 m in width. Boards can be used to cover the upper slopes. It is also allowed to use mulch, which will positively affect the condition of the soil.

For the manufacture of a multi-tiered bed for strawberries with your own hands, a profile pipe or fittings are suitable. Metal structural elements are fastened by welding or by bolting. Containers or boxes filled with soil are put on the finished frame base.

Making high beds: photo and material selection

Fences on high beds are needed so that the soil with plants is inside the structure. Most often, beams or boards are used for construction. Do-it-yourself technologies for making high beds from slate are also popular.

Wood is considered a traditional material that allows you to create practical and reliable designs for high beds. Slate is also popular, but less environmentally friendly. In addition, it has one significant drawback - a fragile structure. During the construction of the garden, this material can be damaged if the rules for handling it are neglected.

The most durable and strong beds are made of brick or stone. Large elements are connected using concrete mortar. Concrete itself is also often used, while working with which you should carefully consider the shape, size parameters and location of the garden, since the garden bed in this case will be stationary and it will not be possible to move it over time. In the manufacture of structures made of concrete, stone or brick, it is important not to overdo it with the thickness and width of the frame. In massive products, the earth will not be able to warm up quickly.

Summer residents also use other budget materials:

  • empty bottles;
  • old plastic boxes;
  • finished structures in the form of plastic fences.

Note! Building high beds from plastic panels is the most budgetary way to get a garden. In the assortment of individual stores you can even find plastic slate.

Features of high beds by Igor Lyadov: design of beds, photos and parameters

The beds of Igor Lyadov are based on a technology invented at the end of the 20th century by Jacob Mittlider. The American worked on the creation of optimal structures for growing strawberries. These products are distinguished from ordinary beds-boxes by their reduced width - only 45 cm. Any material can be used to make the sides, but boards are most often used.

As a filler, fertile soil and a layer of sawdust are used. Mittlider took a width of 0.9 m to the paths between the structures. To prevent the growth of weeds in this area, the vegetable grower spread agrofiber.

Unlike his American colleague, Igor Lyadov proposes to use not mineral additives, but organic matter. He is the author of several recipes that include traditional fertilizers such as bird droppings and manure, as well as herbs. The design of the beds looks somewhat different in the photo. The high beds of Lyadov have a width of 0.6-1 m.

Passages 0.6-0.8 m wide remain between the structures. This zone can be covered with roofing material, sand, tiles or sawdust, so that it is easier to move along the plantings and not think about weeds. The space of paths between the beds is often sown with lawn grass. But in this case, you will have to periodically mow the vegetation so that the passages look neat and do not go beyond their boundaries.

Note! Igor Lyadov strictly outlined the placement of the beds. Landings should be placed from the north side to the south. Only in this way will the plants be provided with the necessary level of illumination by the sun.

Do-it-yourself high garden: how to makewooden structure

The technology provides for the construction of a garden bed, the width of which is 180 cm, length - 3 m, height - 40 cm. However, the dimensional parameters of the structure can be changed taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage. At the first stage of construction, the optimal place for the garden is selected. It is better if the selected area is illuminated during the day by the sun for at least 5 hours. For this purpose, even a place unsuitable for growing crops, for example, a wasteland, is suitable.

Related article:

After that, the design of the beds in the summer cottage is developed, photos of interesting accommodation options can be found on the Internet or in gardening magazines. Before construction begins, the site is cleared of debris, stones and rhizomes of perennial weeds. Annual weeds can not be removed, since the need for this procedure is eliminated during the initial digging of the territory.

First, the fences are prepared. To do this, you will need to cut the material so that you get 4 boards 1.8 m long and 4 boards 3 m long. In addition, wooden blocks should be prepared, each 40 cm high. At the ends of the boards intended for assembling the frame, a cut should be made at an angle of 45°.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, the wooden elements should be treated with a special impregnation or antiseptic to stop the processes of decay and prevent rapid damage to the material, which can be caused by exposure to moisture. From the outside, the boards can be painted or varnished. For decorative purposes, patterns can be applied to the surface. After waiting for complete drying, you can start assembling the box. If the design of the beds provides for two levels, each of the tiers is fastened with bars.

Useful advice! To protect plantings from moles and rodents, it is recommended to nail a net at the bottom.

How to fill a do-it-yourself high bed of planks

Filling the high beds is carried out in the following order:

  • the drainage system is laid in the first layer; for its organization, tree bark is used, which must be crushed, fallen leaves, small twigs and wood shavings;
  • the second layer is formed from fertilizers, manure is well suited for organizing this layer, it is better if it is rotted;
  • as the third layer, a permeable material is used, it is performed by analogy with the first layer;
  • the basis for the fourth layer is organic matter, this layer can be supplemented with mineral fertilizer for complex purposes;
  • fertile land is laid in the fifth layer, the composition of the soil depends on the plants that will be grown in the garden, the minimum thickness of the fertile layer is 10 cm.

After the bed is filled, it should be watered abundantly and let it brew for 2-3 days so that all layers can settle. It is not recommended to immediately start sowing or planting seedlings. It is better to withstand the bed for some more time so that it has time to warm up well. To do this, cover the structure with black material. Polyethylene will do.

Useful advice! If the construction of beds is carried out at the end of summer or autumn, the structure must be left covered until spring.

Making vertical beds with your own hands: photo and technology

Vertically arranged beds are used for growing spices and berries. The advantages of such structures are associated with a decorative appearance, saving space and protecting the crop from birds and various pests.

The construction of vertical beds will be an excellent solution for planting crops that require a lot of space on the site. These designs are ideal for growing herbs, strawberries, flowers, strawberries. Moreover, the owners of summer cottages can not only build their own, but also buy ready-made vertical beds in one of the specialized stores.

Why is it profitable to create or buy a vertical bed for strawberries

There are many design options for vertical beds, but their main advantage lies in their compact size. Moreover, this advantage of products will be beneficial not only to owners of small summer cottages, but also to people who want to grow herbs or berries on their balcony. A light bed made from plastic bottles is best suited for these purposes.

Vertically installed beds do not require complex maintenance. Plantings are at a sufficient height so that weeding or harvesting can be carried out in convenient conditions. This does not require you to bend low and endure back pain. At the same time, plants and their roots are raised high above the ground, where rodents and small pests cannot reach. Pyramid or cylindrical beds prevent birds from landing comfortably to eat the berries.

Prices for finished structures:

product nameprice, rub.
Bed of agrotextile150
Plastic mesh bed490
Pipe with holes1500
Pipe with holes3200
vertical ladder4700

Making a pyramid-bed for strawberries with your own hands: dimensions and technology

To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • edged board size 40 × 5 × 20 cm (11 pcs.);

  • screwdriver and a set of screws;
  • pencil and tape measure;
  • seedlings and soil.

To create the base, 4 support boards are used. For their manufacture, you can cut a board 2 m long. It is recommended to make cuts at an acute angle, so that later it would be convenient to connect the pieces.

Useful advice! To increase the rigidity of the structure in the central part of the pyramidal beds, an additional pillar should be placed, which acts as a support.

After that, a pair of boards 2 m long, having an angular cut along the edges, is laid on a horizontal plane and connected to each other. A rail is mounted at the base to organize the future beds and is fixed on both sides. The dimensions of this element are 5x40x5 cm. The resulting side of the pyramid should be installed vertically and the second and third sides should be fixed on it. They are made in a similar way.

When the frame part of the pyramid is ready, using a tape measure, the length of the rails intended for the manufacture of beds is measured. They should be placed in increments of 25-30 cm. To fix the rails, you will need to cut the ends at an angle of 30 ° so that the shelf is raised. At the end of the assembly, the structure is filled with soil, which should be compacted. Products can be successfully used for growing vegetables and herbs.

Technology for the manufacture of vertical beds for strawberries from plastic pipes

This design option is great not only for growing strawberries, but also for greens.

List of required tools and materials:

  • plastic pipes of the required length with a large diameter;
  • steel cable (can be replaced with thick fishing line);
  • construction knife for cutting pipes.

The large diameter of the pipes is necessary so that the pipe cut in half can accommodate the amount of soil needed to grow plants. The incision of the product is carried out along. To fix the beds in a vertical position, holes should be made on both sides of each of the halves. A steel cable or a thick fishing line is passed through them. The halves are placed one above the other according to the principle of a ladder. The number of such halves-levels can be unlimited.

Note! Since the structure, while suspended, can sway, it is recommended to install the bed in places protected from the wind.

Do-it-yourself construction of vertical beds from a building grid

Small gardens created on the basis of a construction grid are suitable for growing strawberries, flowers, herbs or potatoes. For work you will need:

  • construction metal mesh;
  • the soil;
  • straw;
  • tool for cutting metal wire.

To create a bed, you will need to bend a rectangular piece of mesh in the shape of a pipe, the diameter of which is 0.9 m. Using wire or other devices, the edges of the segment must be fastened in this position. Straw is laid on the sides inside the structure. Thanks to this, the soil will not spill out. Free space is being filled.

If potatoes are to be grown, the first level of plants should be at a height of 50 cm from the ground. About 10 cm should be left between crops. After that, the first layer is shed, 50 cm of earth is laid again and plants are planted. A bed in the form of a tower can be of any height. To give the vertical bed a more attractive appearance, you can use black film instead of straw.

Technologies for making vertical beds for strawberries with your own hands from pots

Flower pots can be successfully used to grow strawberries. Such designs have a decorative appearance. Clay or plastic products are suitable for work. As a result, the design is multi-level. The number of such levels is limited only by personal wishes. Pots are selected so that each subsequent one has a smaller diameter than the previous one. It is desirable that the difference in size between each pair of pots be approximately the same.

The largest pot is set in the selected location and filled with soil. After that, a smaller pot is placed in it, etc. When the structure is ready, plants are planted in the soil and watered.

The next option is based on pots of the same diameter. Only one of them should be big. It will be installed at the very base of the structure. A metal rod or wooden stick should be placed inside a large pot.

Note! The size of the rod must be chosen so that its diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole located at the base of the pot.

The pot is filled with soil. The remaining products are alternately strung on a rod through a hole in the bottom. The result is a multi-tiered structure with pots that seem to balance each other. They are filled with soil, where plants are then planted.

If the site has a high stump or pole, the pots can be fixed on it. In no case should you do this on a living tree. Products are fixed around the circumference in any order. The spiral looks beautiful from the side. You can also use the technique of placing pots in a checkerboard pattern. The only negative of this bed is an inconvenient irrigation system.

Manufacturing technology and photo of do-it-yourself vertical beds for strawberries from tires

A tire tower is made in the same way as a flower pot structure. Tires of different diameters are selected for construction. This material has a significant drawback. Old car tires are not environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is recommended to create such beds for one-time use, and in a year to build new ones from other tires.

Before starting work, car tires need to be prepared:

  • thoroughly clean them from dirt and stones;
  • dry;
  • paint if necessary.

After that, the largest tire should be laid on one side. On the other hand, the side part with a hole for the disk is cut off. The finished element is filled with soil and planted with plants. Similarly, you should do with other tires and install them one on top of the other so that the size of each next one is smaller than the size of the previous one.

Useful advice! Car tires can be beautifully decorated, as is usually done with flower beds made from this material. For these purposes, you can use bright colors, patterns, or make decorative cuts.

Making high beds for strawberries with your own hands from improvised materials

On a bed made from a bag, the plants will look great. This design can be conveniently placed on the fence, the wall of the gazebo, house, barn or any other stationary building. To work, you need a bag made of plastic or natural fabric. Burlap in the operational sense is much better. It is environmentally friendly and, unlike plastic, is reusable. The fact is that artificial materials are subject to rapid destruction under the influence of the sun.

On the other hand, the burlap has a good capacity, providing air access to the plants. So that the bottom and sides of the bag do not break through over time under the influence of gravity, it is recommended to stitch them several times. At the top of the product is a loop for hanging. On one side of the bag, holes are made for planting plants. After that, the bed can be filled with earth and planted.

Tiered structures can be made from wooden or plastic boxes of different sizes. They are stacked one on top of the other with a gradual decrease in dimensional parameters. Such a ladder of boxes can be painted in a bright color and laid around a tree or pole.

Useful advice! To create a bed, you can use an old chest of drawers by pushing its drawers forward and filling them with earth. For these purposes, other unnecessary furniture is also suitable.

Recommendations for creating vertical beds for strawberries

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the garden, it would be useful to take into account some tips for the optimal construction of structures:

  • if the bed is large, the assembly must be carried out right at the place of its installation, otherwise there may be problems with transportation, during which the product can be damaged;

  • a decorative garden with berries should be placed strictly in the sun. If the vertical bed will be used for growing greens, then its design can be located near the kitchen;
  • the soil for filling the beds should be prepared in advance. For berries, sandy loamy soil is suitable, mixed with peat, fertilizer and hydrogel. Quail compost is optimal as a feed;
  • you need to think in advance of a system that will protect the beds from frost in the winter. Will the structure be covered or brought into the room;
  • the garden is recommended to be located closer to the source of water, so that it is more convenient to carry out regular watering of plants.

Note! The construction of vertical beds for cucumbers is also welcomed by many gardeners. Most of the designs are made by analogy with products for strawberries. Since cucumbers belong to the category of climbing crops, the bed should be supplemented with supports for which the plants will cling.

Making vertical beds for cucumbers with your own hands: photos of interesting designs

Vertical garden for cucumbers can be represented by various design options. Most often, bags or products made of plastic are used to grow these crops. The walls of buildings, nets or shields, as well as all kinds of partitions can serve as a surface for fixing the beds. Do-it-yourself vertical garden for cucumbers can be arranged inside a plastic pipe. Such a product closes on one side and is hung vertically on the crossbars.

A mesh made of plastic is considered the simplest option for organizing an ornamental garden for cucumbers. The product is positioned vertically and as the plants grow, they rise along the grid. A similar version of the beds can be bought ready-made or made by yourself. This will require a thick fishing line and straight tree branches that will serve as supports. They are arranged around the circumference with an equal step and at the top are connected at one point so that a kind of hut is obtained.

With the help of a thick fishing line, you need to walk around the circle, forming a vertical base to secure the plants as they grow. If it is planned to build a bed in the form of a grid for cucumbers, it is strictly forbidden to use metal products for these purposes. Such structures will overheat on hot summer days, and injure plants, leaving burns on them. Bags or canvas bags are a safe option for growing cucumbers.

For the construction of vertical structures, it is allowed to use unusual materials, for example, pallets, old furniture, empty stumps, etc. An unusual approach to decor will make it possible to create a garden on the territory, but a beautiful decorative composition that fits optimally into the space of a summer cottage.

Everyone knows that farming is hard work. But in fact, proper site planning, the use of modern technologies and the latest techniques for arranging beds can make this activity much more pleasant and, importantly, more efficient.

A garden bed is a small area where certain plants are planted. The use of beds is not a prerequisite for obtaining a crop, you can plant plants randomly and mixed, and there are people who consciously use just this option. It may sound strange, but in reality, this method requires much more effort and, most importantly, knowledge and experience in the field of agricultural technology, so beginner gardeners are still strongly recommended to grow vegetables in the beds: it’s easier to take care of them and plan the rotation of crops on the site ( crop rotation).

From where and how the bed will be located, what shape and filling it will have, ultimately depends not only on the appearance of the site, but also on the crop that will be harvested from it. And this means that arranging the right garden with your own hands means making it easier for yourself to further work on it, improve your mood and increase self-esteem.

Types and forms of beds


There are many types of beds. They can be stationary and temporary, traditional (horizontal, narrow and wide) and more progressive (multi-tiered, warm, high, deep, fast, etc.). You need to choose the most suitable option for yourself, depending on many factors - the size of the site, the features of its location, the crops that are planned to be planted in the garden and, of course, your own tastes and fantasies.

The shape of the beds can also be anything- square, rectangular, trapezoidal, round, curly. Using different variations and moving away from the correct, “boring” plantings will help make the site brighter, more original, and also use the space allotted for the garden more efficiently.

The main conditions that must be followed when determining the design of the beds can be defined as follows:

  • it should be convenient to approach the plants in the garden;
  • trampling on the bed should be kept to a minimum;
  • the location of the bed should take into account the peculiarities of the climate and topography (for example, in lowland areas it is better to raise the bed, and in a dry place, on the contrary, dig deeper).
Thus, the arrangement of beds in the country is a whole science. Below we will consider several options for the beds and analyze their features in order to help everyone decide for themselves what kind of beds they can make so that the site sparkles with new colors and the yield exceeds all expectations.

Horizontal

Let's start with traditional horizontal garden. Usually summer residents approach their arrangement in an extremely simple way: they divide the plot into rectangular or square fragments and plant their favorite vegetables in them. In fact, this option can hardly be called successful, since it does not allow fulfilling the first two of the above requirements. It is much more technologically advanced to use narrow beds (0.5 m wide, on which plants are planted in just two rows).

Such a simple arrangement allows you to provide the culture with individual care and, in addition, full lighting, which ultimately provides a fantastic jump in productivity. not without reason this type of planting is called "harvest bed". The irrational use of the land due to the obligatory wide aisles in this case is just an illusion, since one correctly located plant will surpass the impenetrable thickets planted in the traditional way in terms of yield. But inside the garden bed itself, crops are planted quite close to each other, this is one of the main secrets of the “harvest garden”.

Did you know? More than a hundred years ago, scientists noticed an amazing effect: a dense planting of a plant with a wide distance between rows dramatically increases fruiting: the plant tries to win back space from its neighbors and directs much more effort into the formation of fruits. Proper care of such a bed (and it is very convenient to provide it) and the introduction of the necessary top dressing can increase the yield four times!

Narrow beds have proven themselves well when planting strawberries, nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers), as well as cucumbers on vertical supports. In science, this method is called the Mitlider method; it has proven itself equally well both for arranging beds in open ground and in special boxes and greenhouses.

It is also convenient to equip narrow beds with bumpers, which will allow water and fertilizer to linger better around the plants and make it easier to approach the row.

In addition to the width of the rows, horizontal beds can also vary in relation to their level. In particular, in addition to the usual beds, located flush with the site, there are deep and raised beds.

As mentioned above, it is worth making deep (low) beds in the garden in those places that are experiencing an acute shortage of water. Also an indication is sandy drying soil with a small amount of fertile layer. On such soil, water does not linger well, and so that the soil does not overheat, it is better to lower the bed a little.

On heavy clay soils, especially if they are constantly washed away by groundwater, in order to avoid stagnant water and rotting of the root system of plants, it is advisable to use high beds - structures that rise several tens of centimeters above the site level. Such beds warm up a little faster in spring and cool later in autumn, but this difference is rather insignificant.

Important! High beds require especially careful monitoring of the preservation of moisture in the ground, they need to be watered much more often, since they dry out very quickly. Therefore, such a design should really be used on swampy soil, when it is caused by an objective necessity.

The use of high and low beds only allows you to regulate the level of moisture in the soil, these types of beds do not have a direct impact on the design of the site and crop yields.

Another interesting type of horizontal bed is a warm bed. This term is usually called such filling of the area allocated for the garden bed, which provides natural heating for the plant. The option aims to replace the greenhouse in regions with very short summers. The idea is that before planting the plants, manure or other organic matter is laid on the bed, which, when decomposed, begins to release heat and serves as a kind of heating pad for the roots. Warm beds are indispensable for unexpected frosts, sudden changes in temperature, especially at the beginning of the season.

vertical

A vertical garden bed is a very original and convenient, albeit rather laborious, way to organize a garden in the country. But if there is very little space for vegetables, this option can help solve the problem. An additional bonus for the construction of a vertical bed is that the plants planted in it do not have direct contact with the ground on the site, and therefore do not experience the harmful effects of weeds and are less susceptible to fungal spores. In addition, it is much better to take care of such a bed - you do not need to bend over three deaths, everything is convenient and affordable. Finally, with the help of such a bed, you can effectively “close a hole in the wallpaper” - to camouflage an old fence or a peeling barn wall.

It has a vertical bed and a number of disadvantages. First of all, the small amount of land in which the plant is located depletes and dries it faster, so such beds need to be fertilized and watered more often. In addition, plants in such beds are much more difficult to endure the cold winter, since the ground in them freezes more.

Very often, strawberries are planted in vertical beds (you can even arrange them on your balcony), but this option is also suitable for greens, salads, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and other vegetables. They are simply planted in boxes with earth, and then the boxes are placed on pre-nailed shelves or suspended from special supports.

A vertical bed for strawberries can be built with your own hands from improvised materials. To do this, you need two plastic (for example, PVC) pipes of the same length, but different diameters. The narrow one is designed for organizing drip irrigation (you immediately need to drill a large number of holes in it with a drill), the wide one is for planting strawberries.

The bottom of one and the other pipe must first be sealed. Further, the principle is as follows: a narrow pipe is wrapped in burlap or agrofiber, tied with twine, after which it is inserted into a wide pipe, in which holes are first made for seedlings of strawberries with a diameter of about 5 cm. Having placed the smaller pipe exactly in the center, a layer of gravel is first poured into the thick pipe, and then - fertile soil mixed with foam balls or hydrogel for better ventilation and to avoid subsidence of the soil. Further, the structure is fixed (you can build several such pipes and attach them to each other with a “hut”. Strawberry seedlings are planted in the holes, then water is poured into a narrow tube. The vertical bed is ready!

For climbing crops, a vertical greenhouse can be built from metal barrels. With proper care, this method allows you to solve the problem of arranging supports for this type of crop - growing up, they will hang down and braid the barrel. Convenient and very effective, because beautiful beds in the garden are the key to the good mood of its owners!

Multi-tiered

Another option for beautiful beds that you can equip in the country with your own hands is multi-tiered beds. A very convenient option in terms of space saving. Such a bed is created on the principle of a multi-storey building, when several apartments are located on the land plot above each other instead of one.

The arrangement of multi-tiered beds in the country is real creativity. First of all, you need to plan which cultures and in what order will “live” in your high-rise building. You need to take into account the height of plants, the characteristics of their growth and development, lighting requirements, fruiting period, etc. For example, it is not very convenient to place the tallest plants on the lower “floor”, since they simply have nowhere to develop. It is also better for the most light-loving crops to leave the upper platforms. Climbing plants, depending on your imagination, can be planted at the bottom, directing the stems up along the supports specially provided for this, or, conversely, placed at the top, allowing them to fall down the walls or other structural elements.

From what to make multi-tiered beds and what place on the site to use for their arrangement, it depends only on the owner's imagination. For this purpose, ready-made or self-made ladders are suitable, knocked down from frame boards or round structures constructed from plastic rings, bending pipes and any other material at hand.

Making beds in the country with the help of self-made multi-storey structures has a number of undeniable advantages.

First, this very ergonomic. Caring for such a bed is not associated with a constantly bent back, you can feel comfortable, while it is convenient to approach the plant and perform any necessary procedure with it (tie up, pinch and, finally, harvest).

Secondly, this economically. If you are limited in space, this method will allow you to grow the maximum number of crops on a minimum area, and the vacated space can be used for arranging a recreation area or barbecue.

Thirdly, this efficient from an agricultural point of view. With proper planning of a multi-tiered bed, you can actually grow both sun-loving and shade-tolerant crops very successfully on the same segment of the site, and both of them will give an excellent harvest.

And finally, fourthly, this very nice and original. Multi-colored vegetables and fruits and fragrant greens, arranged in a bright ensemble in the form of a living pyramid, are an absolute reason to invite neighbors and acquaintances to visit, who will certainly appreciate your resourcefulness and creativity.

Multi-tiered beds are also a great way to equip an original and very beautiful flower garden. The principle is the same - shade-resistant flowers are planted at the bottom, and more light-loving and weaving flowers are located on the upper tiers.

How to choose the right place for the garden

When deciding on the type and shape of the beds, we must not forget that it is equally important to choose the right place for arranging it.


The first thing you need to pay attention to is the illumination of the site. You can not place the bed in the shade. The sun should cover it for at least eight hours a day. This is the general rule. But there are nuances depending on what kind of crops you are going to plant, since different plants have different demands on sunlight. In addition, it is better that your garden bed is as bright as possible in the morning, has a little shade in the afternoon, and again finds itself in the sun in the evening. From this point of view, you need to place the beds away from tall trees, buildings and hedges that cast a lot of shade.

Important! For photosynthesis, the most favorable is the morning light, when the sun does not burn, but gently caresses the green leaves. Evening rays are not as effective on plants, and midday heat can cause a lot of harm.

If you decide to equip a multi-tiered garden bed, the amount of sunlight and the need for certain crops should be taken into account all the more.

The second point is relief. It is better that the bed is even, so that the water lingers in it evenly. Low-lying places and hills should be avoided if possible, since in the first case the water will melt the roots, in the second case the plants will dry out. Although this problem can be dealt with by arranging high or deep beds, as mentioned above. However, the presence of a slope is a reason to choose another place or level the site, adding the required amount of land. Also, on an uneven site, you can equip terraces with vertical beds, then the soil will not be washed out after each rain and watering. The last option is to plant the plant across the slope.


If the area is uneven, place the bed on the south side. It is noted that in this case, an unsuccessful relief can be compensated for by greater sun activity, and the crop will ripen much faster. The northern uneven slope is the worst place for a garden bed.

Now oh the location of the beds. It is generally accepted that the beds should be equipped from north to south. But this is a general rule, and it does not always work. So, for low-growing crops and a flat area, indeed, one should adhere to this direction of the beds. But it is better to plant tall plants from west to east, this will ensure the most uniform coverage of each bush.

O the shape of the beds we have already spoken. The place must be chosen so that between the rows you can leave a wide (at least 0.5 m) space - a path along which you will walk, caring for the plants. This place can be safely tamped (and even covered with gravel or sown with grass) so as not to knead the dirt after rain or heavy watering. The length of the bed depends on the characteristics of your site, but it is better that it be the same for all rows - it is more convenient to take care of the plants.

A few tips for choosing a place for beds, depending on the crops that you plan to grow on them:

  • to save space with radishes, lettuce and dill, you can compact the beds with other crops (for example, with cabbage), instead of allocating a separate place for them;
  • root crops are recommended to be used as a frame for planting vegetables; it is also good to use climbing plants, such as legumes, as a border. If planted north of the main crop, they will not obscure it;
  • zucchini, melons, watermelons and pumpkins should be planted separately from other vegetables, as they require a lot of space and can overwhelm neighbors.

On the whole, it can be said that the correct arrangement of beds in the country will allow you to grow a crop with your own hands on literally one hundred square meters of land, which will fully provide the whole family with fresh vegetables and will allow you to create impressive reserves of vitamins for the winter.

How to make a garden bed with your own hands

How to ennoble the beds with your own hands depends on which bed you have chosen. If we are not talking about a primitive horizontal bed, but about a more complex and progressive design, there are two main options:

  1. purchase ready-made beds for summer cottages, which will only have to be assembled and installed;
  2. make your own design.
Since the first option involves simply following the manufacturer's instructions, consider a more economical and creative option - original beds using improvised materials.

What you need to create a garden bed in the country, tools and materials

Anything can be used as a basis for creating various progressive structures - plastic, tiles, straw, wood, pipes, ready-made boxes or barrels, slate, shingles, etc. Any chosen material has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be considered, before making a choice.

Important! When arranging beds for vegetables and fruits, it is imperative to use materials that do not emit harmful substances. For example, car tires, cinder blocks, slate, as well as wooden parts treated with non-food dyes and varnishes are best used for equipping flower beds, but not for planting edible plants. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use such materials with their preliminary wrapping in a special film intended for garden work.

So, for arranging the beds, you can use:

In addition to the finishing material, you will need fertile soil, gravel for drainage, sand, mulch, as well as tools, the set of which depends on the type of construction (bayonet shovel, building level, tape measure, hammer, trowel, brush, drill, self-tapping screws, welding machine, etc. .P.). For decoration and creating supports for climbing plants, it is also worth stocking up with a cord, twine or other garters.

How to build a garden bed in the country with your own hands, a step-by-step guide

Let us consider in more detail the technology for arranging a high, multi-tiered, fast and warm garden bed.

Raised (high)garden bed from the boards in the country is done as follows.


To equip the bottom row, the first thing to do around the perimeter of the beds is to remove the turf along the width corresponding to the size of the board. We free the site itself from debris and weeds. Next, boards are laid out on the prepared strips, while it is very important that the entire structure is on the same level (if necessary, an additional plank should be placed in the “sagging” places or, conversely, some earth should be removed in the highest places). With a rubber mallet, the boards are knocked close to each other so that there are no gaps between them. Then the structure is fastened with self-tapping screws.

Then we build up the structure with several rows of boards. It is better to overlap subsequent rows, so the structure will be more stable.

At the bottom of the resulting space, a layer of agrofiber or metal mesh is first laid. This will protect the future planting from weeds and rodents, as well as protect it from pests and fungal diseases. To protect the soil from being washed out, a layer of ordinary cardboard can be laid on top of the mesh and only then the drainage is filled up. In the absence of screenings or crushed stone, broken bricks or other suitable material can be used.

Important! Do not lay a film on the bottom of the beds. In this case, the earth may overheat and, in addition, the lack of access to the soil of earthworms and other microorganisms necessary for the normal life of the plant will adversely affect the crop.


It's time to fill the bed with fertile soil. If it is not possible to buy a ready-made mixture in a store, you can use the soil from the site, thoroughly cleaning it of roots and weeds and, if possible, mixing it with peat or compost. The sides of the beds should be 3-4 cm above the soil layer. After planting seedlings, it is recommended to mulch the soil, this will protect it from freezing and drying out.

The bed is ready, it remains to take care of the irrigation system and, if desired, organize a paved area around the structure.

Such a bed can be equipped not only on open ground, but also on a concrete site. In fact, this option is even simpler, since it is not associated with the need to get rid of sod and weeds, and, in addition, you already have a blind area around the garden!

Did you know? It is not recommended to process a tree for arranging a bed with antiseptics for environmental reasons, therefore, to increase the service life of such a structure, it is better to use rotting-resistant varieties of trees, for example, oak.

Using the described principle, a high bed can be made from any other available materials.

Now let's see how to do multi-tieredgarden bed from the boards with their own hands. Here the task is more complicated, in particular, much more time needs to be devoted to correct marking, clearly defining the boundaries of each tier in order to properly plan their width (here it is imperative to take into account the varieties of plants being planted, since each of them requires a certain amount of personal space for normal development).

We pre-protect the lower, largest tier in terms of area with mesh and cardboard, subsequent ones can be done without observing such precautions.

Filling the beds is carried out taking into account the needs of their future inhabitants to the composition of the soil.

On the top floor of a multi-level bed, you can arrange picturesque structures from wicker branches or bamboo sticks, which will use climbing crops planted on this tier as a support.

Arrangement straw quick beds- a great option for an uncultivated and weedy area.

The area allocated for the garden is covered with cardboard (it is recommended to fix it with studs so that it does not blow away with the wind), lay a layer of straw on top (at least 30 cm) and plant our seedlings, making cruciform cuts in the cardboard with a knife. It is good if you put manure, compost or other organic matter under a layer of cardboard.

Such a bed prevents the development of weeds (they cannot break through a thick layer of paper) and does not allow the soil to dry out.

Quick straw bed- a great way to grow potatoes.


And finally warm garden. It can be done in three ways - on uncultivated land, in a box or in a trench. In the first option, the place chosen for the bed is fenced off with boards, a layer of wood chips is laid out on the slightly trampled grass inside (you can use waste after winter pruning of trees). The branches are covered with three layers of paper (cardboard freed from adhesive tape, newspapers, packaging material, etc. will do). Next, the “heater” itself is placed: humus, compost or manure with a layer of at least 10 cm. It must be covered with dry grass and left until next spring, regularly watered during the summer. When the time comes, on top of the grass we pour a layer of soil mixed with humus (another 10 cm) and plant seedlings.

Similarly, a warm bed can be arranged in a pre-prepared wooden box, the height of its sides should be at least 30 cm.

The service life of such warm beds is not limited to one year, but "biofuel" does not work for more than three seasons. But there is a way to set up a self-heating vegetable garden that can last up to ten years. The task, however, is quite laborious, but it is worth it.

In the place allocated for the bed, a trench is dug for at least two bayonets of a shovel. Wood material is laid at the bottom: larger in the center and small at the edges. If the soil is clayey, you first need to pour a layer of sand into the trench, and in especially cold regions, lay empty plastic bottles to create an air lock. Sod is laid out on top with the roots up, then a wooden box is installed, 2/3 filled with dry grass and paper. The top layer is soil mixed with manure or compost in a ratio of 1:1. Such a bed should stand for at least a year before crops are planted in it.

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