Table x shaped drawing. Do-it-yourself table for giving: we do it together. Detailed lesson with photos. The nuance of working with fasteners

Despite the many variations of plastic furniture that can be easily purchased at the store, many people want to make a table for giving with their own hands from natural materials. In order to make a table, you do not need special skills, the main thing is to prepare theoretically.

What does it consist of

If it is possible to use environmentally friendly material, you should definitely use it. Making a wooden country table will be an ideal option.

Practically the table consists of 8 parts: 4 legs and 4 planks for the tabletop.

1. For the manufacture of legs, the 50th boards are sawn in length into 2 bars. The length of the legs should be 75 cm minus the thickness of the table top and a height of at least 74 cm, otherwise the table will be uncomfortable. That is, if the thickness of the tabletop is 3 cm, the legs should be the same length - 73 cm;
2. Bars for the manufacture of legs are processed with an electric planer, chamfers are knocked off the ribs, and the ends and borders are carefully polished. This concludes the preparatory work for the manufacture of the table;
3. The frame for the table is necessary to ensure the hardness of this piece of furniture. In this project, a 10 cm wide plank is used to make a frame. The plank should be pre-planed and fixed together with the legs with self-tapping screws, having previously lubricated the contact points with a mixture of PVA glue and sawdust. If necessary, excess glue is removed, and after complete drying it is polished with sandpaper;
4. For the countertop, you can use a special furniture stand or separate boards. It all depends on your taste preferences.

The dimensions of the frame completely depend on the desired volume of the future countertop. After making the countertop, proceed to the manufacture of the frame, the size of which should be 25 cm smaller than the size of the countertop around the entire perimeter. The frame will provide stability and reliability of the structure.

The optimal dimensions for a country table are 82 * 102 cm, which are quite capable of accommodating three people, and the size of the frame in this case should be from 64 cm.

Assembly technology

Place the tabletop base on the surface of the frame and secure it with metal corners on the inside. This is necessary so that the structure can be disassembled if necessary.

Note! The assembled table should be covered with two layers of tinted antiseptic, and then with two layers of varnish. Such measures will give the table resistance to weather conditions.

Similarly, several designs can be made, as well as a large table that can accommodate a large family.

There is another way to make a wooden country table yourself. Pre-prepared elements must be connected to each other at a certain angle, and then carefully laid on top of the boards that form the countertop. Initially, make holes at a right angle and tighten the nuts evenly. In the absence of a minimum carpentry experience, you can purchase blanks ready for assembly.

Three prefabricated legs made of boards with dimensions of 6.2 * 3.5 cm act as a support for the table. The blank is a horizontal element bolted with two legs expanded at the base. Planned boards with dimensions of 15 * 3.5 cm are fastened with screws to the legs, thus forming a tabletop. Next, a bench is made from attached planks with a size of 6.2 * 3.5 cm, fixed at a height of 45 cm from the ground.

Assembly of legs

For the legs, you will need to cut 6 blanks from 92 cm boards and cut the edges at an angle of 30 degrees using a template. From the same boards, you need to cut 3 horizontal crossbars, the edges of which should also be cut down.

Lay the legs of 2 pieces on a flat surface, and on them horizontal boards. In two blanks, make holes passing through, insert centimeter bolts into them, put washers on top and fix the nuts. However, the nuts are only needed to maintain the shape, so you should not fix them completely. Do the same with the other legs.

garden bench

In order to independently make a bench for a summer residence, you can use a couple of brick columns, stones or blocks of concrete on a strip foundation. The height of the posts should not exceed 45 cm for the convenience of sitting on the bench.

Install the posts, and then make 4 plank wood planks with dimensions of 15 * 3.5 cm and the required length. They should be laid on poles in such a way that a free edge of 15 cm remains on both sides. Next, fix three slats 7.5 * 5 cm - from two edges and in the middle. If desired, simply lay the boards on the posts and fix them with screws.

Even in the absence of minimal skills in carpentry, you can make furniture that will delight you for a long time and make you feel proud.

Video

A photo

If you have your own land plot, then it can be furnished with beautiful furniture so that it is convenient not only for gardening, but also for relaxing with the whole family or a large company. High-quality country accessories can be quite expensive. Zealous owners would like to offer a scheme according to which it is quite possible to independently make a garden table with your own hands in order to end up with strong and reliable furniture. Please read the information below carefully. It will help you understand how to make a table in the country with your own hands.

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To design a country table with your own hands, you need to take the minimum amount of materials and tools, moreover, most of them are quite affordable, and there are in almost every home. So, what should be prepared in advance:

• material to be used as the base. Many modern masters prefer wood. The main advantage of wooden benches is that they are completely environmentally friendly. In addition, their appearance is very aesthetic. To make it easier for yourself, you can take new boards. When buying lumber, make sure that they are dry enough; wet wood is completely unacceptable to use for work. It is necessary to withstand it for several months in a room that is well ventilated, and only then begin work. If you follow this advice, then a do-it-yourself wooden table made and installed will serve for a long time. Of course, you can make a table of stone or metal, but this will require a lot of investment and effort, time and money. Stone, as the main material, is durable and reliable, however, it is much more difficult to process it;
• fasteners (nails and screws);
• drawings of garden benches and a table for giving with the indicated proportions. You can find ready-made options or create furniture schemes yourself. Choose a project or make an original layout based on the options presented on our website. If you plan to create a high-quality and aesthetic table in the country with your own hands, then the drawings will definitely come in handy;

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• sandpaper. If you have a grinder, this will significantly speed up the work process and help make the garden table perfectly flat;
• varnishes and antiseptics for wood processing. They are needed so that a table made of boards can be used for a long time. If you use these products as directed, you will get a wooden outdoor piece of furniture that will not lose its functionality due to moisture or insects.

How to make a table for giving?

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If you are planning to design a wooden table for giving with your own hands, then you can offer the following scheme of actions:

1. Cut boards 140 cm long, make a frame out of them, fastening individual elements with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the boards are at right angles to each other. In order to check the correctness, measure the diagonals: if there was no error, then they must be completely identical. The finished frame is then needed to ensure the strength and reliability of the entire structure.
2. If you are planning to create a round table, then make the legs. To do this, cut 4 boards 80 cm long, process them with a grinder to give an aesthetic look. Knock off the edges of the chamfers using a suitable tool for this. Attach the blanks to the frame from the inside. Select 4 fasteners for each leg to ensure the most reliable connection.
3. Fasten the crossbars in the middle of the legs. They will play the role of a frame for a shelf, which can be used for its intended purpose for arranging any things or utensils. On the other hand, this detail will make the furniture more rigid. Fix the crossbars at an angle of 90º. In order not to make a mistake, check the accuracy with a square.
4. Put the base on a flat surface, check how stable it is. If the structure does not wobble and you have no doubts about its reliability, bring the surfaces into proper condition by grinding. For this type of work, it is recommended to use sandpaper or a special machine. The use of the device will help to simplify the task and cope with the task faster.
5. Assemble the tabletop. To create it, it is recommended to use boards of various types of wood. If you plan to design a round table, then you will need to saw the tabletop to the appropriate size from a solid wood plate. This will allow you to form a table with your own hands, which will look stylish and non-standard. Treat the material with a stain in advance. Fix the boards with nails, and fix the shelf with self-tapping screws. Level the surface with a special machine, and apply paint on it (as an option, you can use a transparent varnish). You can significantly simplify the work if you purchase or order ready-made wooden stands. You don't have to spend any time or effort to process it.
6. Install the prepared tabletop on the frame, fasten the individual elements. A metal corner for these purposes is best suited. This completes the assembly process.
7. Once the country table has been built, cover its surface with several layers of a substance with antiseptic properties, and after it is completely absorbed into the surface, with two layers of varnish. Due to these simple manipulations, you can make the garden table more resistant to the effects of the external environment. As a result, you will get economical country accessories that will serve for many years without losing all presentability. You can arrange them in the garden without worrying about the wooden table cracking after the first rain.

If you have some material left, then you can use it to design wooden benches with your own hands.

Outside of use, they can be placed under a table or under a canopy to prolong their service life. You can design finished furniture, based on your wishes and skills. You can decorate a carved table for a dacha made by yourself (the photos on our website will help you catch inspiration).

How to make a table out of logs?

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If you wish, you can make a table for giving with your own hands, using a different type of material - logs. It is also environmentally friendly and easy to process. With its use, a street table for a summer residence will be created according to the following scheme:

1. Prepare the log house for further work: plan the surface of the logs with a planer, cut into separate parts, sandpaper to remove all burrs. Make the joints perfectly even, make holes, making sure that their diameter matches the diameter of the reinforcement. It is important that the individual holes are located at a distance of 30 cm from each other.
2. Assemble the elements that form the log table. When connecting parts “into a bowl”, cutting should begin with filing in the center. Make sure that the cut exactly corresponds to the specified depth. To perform this work, it is more convenient to use a chisel or an ax.
3. There is another option for fastening parts: in places where one part is connected to another, holes are made, and reinforcement is inserted into it. To make the do-it-yourself table more durable and reliable, epoxy glue is used. All parts are folded according to the drawing. If the armature is too long, then it is shortened. As a result, it turns out to create a detachable table made of logs with your own hands, which is very convenient to use.

Specialists make high-quality objects with their own hands from wood, connecting individual parts with self-tapping screws. This option is also acceptable, if you are going to make a wooden table for giving, take note of it. Benches can also be crafted from logs when you have some lumber left.

In conclusion, I would like to note that in order for garden tables not to lose their attractiveness over the years, they need to be properly looked after, in particular, protected from rain and hidden under a canopy.

By the way, it is quite simple to equip the canopy itself, it is enough to use the most primitive means at hand, for example, shower curtains. They need to be fastened together so that they form a dense canopy, under which precipitation does not penetrate. If it is not possible to equip a canopy, it is better to move the furniture into the house.

A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the occupant's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of ​​​​support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of ​​support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Penylvanian Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary family table can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.

Design options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of ​​support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here), and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design options

Whereas the basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with tapered legs, as shown here, and Sheraton tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a frame swivel table over a swivel leg table is the stability provided by the extra legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the table top. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

Dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, breathe in fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda at a table made for giving with your own hands. Such a table will not only give a special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.

Option 1. Table with legs

When choosing materials for a table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Softwoods, such as spruce and pine, are malleable and easy to work with, but such material is more flammable without proper processing, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

wood species	Brinell hardness)	Density (kg/m3)	Stability	Color Trends
Birch	3,0	600	average	the color gets deeper
Larch	2,6	500	good	takes on shades of gray
European oak	3,7	700	good	the color gets deeper
Ash	4,0	700	average	light to straw yellowish brown
Pear	3,3	680	average	blushes
Cherry	3,0	580	good	light pink to deep reddish tint

Materials and tools

For the internal arrangement of dachas and country houses, long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move freely around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.

For a table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. Two ready-made wooden shields 30-2000 mm in size can be purchased.

Balusters or wooden bars for legs. Curly balusters will give the homemade table a production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools.

1. Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
2. Wood putty.
3. Screwdriver and self-tapping screws 30 and 50 mm.
4. Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
5. Clamps for fixing legs and countertops.
6. Electric drill.
7. Sander.
8. Building level.
9. Square.
10. Roulette or centimeter.
11. Marker.
12. Glue.

Prices for various types of building timber

Construction timber

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a planer, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove bumps, the remains of cut knots, and clean up cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.

If it is planned to manufacture a solid shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase grooved materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single web and save time on fitting elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the bars for the legs.

Table frame assembly

The frame helps to increase the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions completely depend on the parameters of the tabletop, but there are a few general rules: both in length and width, the frame should be 30-25 cm smaller than the tabletop.

Video - DIY garden table

The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal cross bars. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-lubricated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent splitting of the boards, you can drill pilot holes in them and only then screw in the screws.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the cross bars, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the cross bars are smeared with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “drowned” in the wood.

Table frame (manufacturing option)

The boards of the tabletop are connected, leveled with a tape measure and stacked face down on the floor, a frame is placed on top so that the cross planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the slats, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each cross board.

Assembling the table legs

The tabletop is laid on a workbench or several stools for the subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square ones - on corner fasteners.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Finishing

After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, corners are sawn off with a jigsaw along the radius or the end is completely rounded. Bevels can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything is carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired on wood. It is better not to touch the heads of the screws so that it is possible to tighten the structure.

After the final grinding, all dust and chips are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or a single painting look beautiful and unusual. But you should not hide the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint, modern varnishes and impregnations will do all the necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Simple table for a summer residence

Option 2. Stump table

An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old or threatening trees are often cut down. If there is or was just such a tree at your dacha, then there will definitely be no problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in the clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need quite a bit:

• wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you must follow the rule “the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board”;
• stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any kind of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp and not rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it is better to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry room or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. As a rule, the whole process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark moves away without effort, then you can get to work;
• water-based wood varnish in a natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes and a holder;
• planer or grinder;
• chisel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer and nails;
• screwdriver and screws;
• abrasive fibre.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1.

The dried blank of the future table must be cleaned of bark. For this step, a chisel or chisel will come in handy. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. All soft and rotten areas also need to be removed.

Stage 2.

After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, using a level, a flat surface is prepared, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the shortcomings are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the cuts from which are then polished.

Stage 3.

The leveled stump is ground with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also polished, and hard-to-reach places are processed with coarse-grained sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment of time.

Stage 4.

Cracks and recesses in the trunk must be cleaned of dirt and dust with a chisel, after which they should be carefully folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper to carefully process them from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a building vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5.

To prevent rotting of the stump and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fix them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6.

After installing the legs, we proceed to the crate of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel strips perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top two more rows of holders - a total of 6 strips fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7.

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse slats. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The winning option looks like a table with a round or oval top.

To give this shape, you can use a home-made device made of thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around the pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining the circle with a selected radius, after which all the excess is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinder.

Stage 8.

Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chipped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and treating them again after drying with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with holders on nails or self-tapping screws matched to the size.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent flaking of the varnish, and subsequent layers will lie more evenly.

After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. If desired, after drying, the last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excessive shine and give the surface a dull finish.

Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.

Prices for paintwork materials

paints and varnishes

Video - Do-it-yourself table for giving from a stump

TOP 5 best woods for furniture making

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1		Beech	⭐ 98 / 100
#2

As in a bedroom without a bed, so in almost any other room, whether it be a living room, a kitchen or even a hallway, you cannot do without a table. Actually, in the bedroom, he will not be superfluous. And it is better to have several of them at once - for different purposes. So that there is somewhere to put a night lamp, where to lay out notes and books, install a laptop, or even just have a bite to eat or even do something more spicy.

Buying a "desk" is not difficult, the choice is now large, but making it yourself is a matter of special sophistication. Such a home-made item of an apartment “wardrobe” will be valued much higher by both the owner and guests, and it will be more pleasant to use it.

This is not an easy task, but it is also simple, requiring, however, a certain aesthetic taste and carpentry skills. But do not be afraid and immediately retreat. It is quite possible to cope with this task, the main thing is to imagine what you want.

Pros and cons

A homemade product has both its advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages:

• Variability. You can do with your own hands what you really need. In all aspects. This is complete freedom in the choice of form, material, texture, size, design.
• Saving. Buying in furniture stores will cost significantly more. In fact, for the same or even worse quality, you will sometimes have to pay many times more money.
• Uniqueness. What is done by hand, no one else will do. This will allow you to create a stylish and original, and most importantly, a unique interior almost anywhere - in the country, in an apartment, in your own house.
• Improving skills. Working on a table is an opportunity to practice your locksmith and carpentry skills, to learn a whole range of new things. These skills will come in handy when repairing finished store products in the future.

Having a better understanding of the design of the tables, it will be possible to more professionally approach the choice of such products in retail outlets, or even discover a source of additional income. And in general - it will always be possible to help relatives and friends fix something, bring a fresh idea to the design.

However, the independent production of tables is fraught with certain difficulties. Among them:

• Time consumption. Be prepared to spend one or more days working, and in the case of a large item, even a week. The maximum, as the masters admit, is 10 days spent on a large table. In fact, you can spend the whole vacation tormented with the material and achieve very meager results. Therefore, it is better to have a psychological readiness for difficulties during the first experience.

• Injury hazard. Working, especially with wood, is fraught with splinters. When working with old material (beams, boards from fences), you need to be extremely careful. But in some cases, even work gloves may not save you from small cuts. Too delicate hands are better not to do such things.

• Manufacturing defects. The house is still not a workshop, and it can be difficult to make some calculations - hence the roughness and unevenness on a product that seems to be ready and verified to the smallest detail. Well, if the table is made for giving, but in a standardized room the result can become the subject of offensive jokes and just look out of place. For the manufacture of an improvised "bureau" or other structures more complex than an ordinary table, skills and some experience are still needed. It would be time to earn it.

• Need a tool. If it is not there, everything is simple - you have to buy and master it. Time is already money, and there are additional costs at the first stage. However, in the long run, such an approach will lead to savings - the next table will be made almost for next to nothing, especially if there are stocks of material in the country.

• Not suitable for all styles. You need to be careful to experiment with homemade products in modern interiors, for example, high-tech, where metal and technological materials “rule the ball”. It is difficult to work with them, and wooden products can disrupt the harmony of the room.

A little advice. If you decide to make a table, and this is the first experience, try to find a good adviser who will psychologically and with the help of his skills support the undertaking. You can take the first steps together, and then go on a free “flight”.

Assembly Features

There are many types of tables. The most common are writing, computer, toilet (with or without a mirror). Desktops differ depending on whether they are designed for a laptop or made for a desktop computer. In the latter case, you will need a special space for the system unit - it can be installed both under your feet and at eye level.

Each of the options has its own advantages that affect the design of the table. In the first case, the system unit will not get in the way at hand, but it will not be very convenient to connect USB ports to it from behind. When designing, you should leave a significant open space behind the table, do not put it near the wall. If the system unit is located on top, the bureau should be as stable as possible, and the table top should be made of durable, reliable material.

If there is a goal to design a desktop for a student, including a collapsible structure, it is reasonable to build drawers for notebooks, textbooks and CDs into it. An alternative is a separate shelf above the structure. Drawers can be either drawers or open shelves. The backlight is up-to-date.

Tables can also be angular, transformers; height-adjustable, collapsible, on wheels.

All these are not frills, but practical design elements. Among the more complex options, for example, river tables with a beautiful, often transparent material built into the middle part are popular. Their production will take more time and require higher locksmith skills, however, it will allow not only to upgrade your working “skills”, but also to make a real interior artifact. Each of the types of tables has its own assembly features and specifics. Consider some of the most popular, simple and affordable options for creating a table that do not require the heights of technical training, but allow you to create high-quality and interesting products that do not look awkward or poor even in a modest interior.

Tools

But before you start carpentry manipulations, you need to decide what and with what you plan to work. You need to get down to business in full "instrumental" readiness. Do not be afraid, nothing rare and particularly complex will be required - only the usual working arsenal, which is always at hand for a real man. So, let's list the main ones. You can’t do without the “classics of the genre” - nails, screws, a screwdriver, a planer, a hammer, glue (instantaneous is also useful), a knife. In some cases, you can use a saw (in nature). Do not forget about work gloves and disinfectants. Be sure to have iodine and cotton swabs with you, unless, of course, the goal is to make a table, and not to get sick with tetanus.

The fact is that when sanding wood (with sandpaper or other device) it can turn out to be very “unfriendly” and just stand up with a pile. When working with metal, more metalwork tools are needed. And in any case, it is better to get eye protection - a special working mask. For the subsequent processing of the material and its cleaning, a brush and disinfectants, including those against insects, are also useful, especially when using old wood. You can also clean the table with sandpaper.

And, of course, you need varnish or paint for final processing. You may have to varnish the countertop several times (after the first one, the pile will simply stand up), which means that it is better to buy it with a margin.

Popular materials

One tool is obviously not enough. There is something, but nothing to work on yet. The main thing, of course, is the material. Theoretically, a table can be made from anything, but there are subtleties. The most popular is wood, but it must be dry! If it is not dry, dry it; it will take time, but for the sake of the quality of the product, in this case, do not rush anywhere.

A table made of dry wood, logs, timber is a wonderful and reliable element of the interior. Beautiful, functional and affordable. On this option, it will be possible to save a lot if there are inexpensive bars or logs at hand - they are stored, for example, in the country. In stores, good wooden tables definitely do not belong to the category of the cheapest.

Wood is trending right now. This is the main eco-material. You can’t do without it in interiors tailored to the natural style. In fact, it is wood in one form or another that is played up in all classical interior styles, up to colonial or modern.

You can make a bureau from chipboard. The material is composite and quite affordable. But it has a lot of downsides. Chipboard is afraid of moisture - no longer an option for the kitchen. It does not hold nails and screws well - unnecessary difficulties in the work. And in general, it is not very environmentally safe - it is better not to keep too many chipboard products in the apartment. Nevertheless, such a table can be placed, for example, in a house or on a veranda in a country house - as an inexpensive, temporary option - for the season, for receiving guests. Inexpensive, simple and moderately aesthetically pleasing, and most importantly - functional.

Let us clarify that laminated chipboard is also on sale - also wood and shavings, only laminated in a special way - with a polymer film at high temperatures, or even with a special varnish that provides increased water resistance. Chipboard is more expensive, but such boards are practically devoid of all the shortcomings of chipboard.

However, the use of plywood will be no less practical. There are many types of it - there are also moisture resistant ones. This means that the range of applications is wider. In Russia, this material is gaining popularity and is also massively exported, which indirectly indicates its quality. Plywood is quite easy to process and not too expensive. Of the minuses - its facelessness, dull texture and the accompanying feeling of unnaturalness. In addition, when working with plywood, it is necessary to carefully approach the preparatory stage. Without a sketch, a drawing is indispensable. You can use both ready-made projects, and make it yourself.

The easiest way is to make a table from a furniture board, for example, ash. This is a little more expensive, but at the same time it will ensure the reliability of the main part of the table - the table top. Less worries with polishing, but at the same time somewhat less naturalness and texture.

An extreme alternative is the use of natural wood: stumps (by the way, they can be used on their own, but this is already a designer chic) ​​or saw cuts. With them, everything is exactly the opposite. You will have to grind and varnish it yourself several times, but in the end you will get a completely unique unique product that all lovers of “natural” design can appreciate, unless, of course, after gatherings they leave without a few splinters in various places.

Often in the design of the table, glass or special optical glue, plexiglass glue, is used to replace it. You can also buy just impact-resistant glass - although it will come out more expensive. It's stylish, effective and safe. This material is optimal for small oval coffee tables, but recently it has been increasingly used by designers in models with right angles.

We also add that the legs and base can be metal. You should not be afraid of the combination of wood and metal - with a competent design, it can be not only harmonious, but also very interesting. In modern interiors, loft and hi-tech, sometimes you can’t do without it. In addition, metal is effectively combined with glass or its analogues.

Kitchen table

This is an absolutely necessary element of the interior. It should be comfortable, comfortable and stable. The surface of the tabletop is often of no fundamental importance - usually it is covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth. When making it yourself, it is important to pay attention to the lower parts of the structure so that you can sit at the table without problems, and you can always place your legs comfortably.

A good DIY dining table can be made in just a few days. According to home "masters", even very beautiful large models took them no more than 7-10 days. Any material can be used - the easiest way to work with chipboard, plywood and wood. The main thing is that the beams and boards are even and well sanded.

Carefully study their dimensions, bring them to the norm if necessary - it is hardly advisable to make a kitchen table more than 80 cm in height. The shape and size of the countertop will depend on the interior and the availability of free space in the kitchen.

The table, although the main element of the interior in such a room, should not occupy the entire place. Therefore, especially in small kitchens, it is practical to make it square - you can approach it from all sides, and more than four people are unlikely to fit behind it anyway. In large dining rooms, on the contrary, it is better to stay in the classic rectangular format.

An oval or round tabletop will also look interesting, especially if you choose beautiful curly legs for it - this, however, will require good carpentry skills.

When working on a standard wood model, fasten the beams or boards with the planks at the bottom under the tabletop. A practical option with plywood. It is better not to use chipboard - there is always high humidity in the kitchen, and something is accidentally spilled regularly, and this material, as you know, does not withstand the influence of the water element.

An interesting idea would be to create a sliding table. In this case, the fasteners must be flexible. But you can do it easier. Still, making a sliding table in the format of one design with your own hands is not a trivial task.

Therefore, make two small rectangular products of the same dimensions. During the day, they can be moved to different parts of the kitchen or even an apartment, and moved before eating together, thereby forming a large table. A very practical option for small kitchens. When manufacturing, pay attention to the lower parts - partitions and beams should not interfere with each other when connecting tables.

If the kitchen is very small, you can make a folding table. Assemble the countertop and attach a special bracket to the wall. Such a “desk”, as a rule, has only two legs, which means that they should be placed so that at least three people can fit behind it at the same time. Another option is to build a small cabinet for storing dishes and food instead of one of the legs. This is the perfect way to save space.

When designing a table with a sink, it is better to seek the help of a professional. It will not be difficult to make sketches and the main structural elements, but the main thing is that they do not interfere with the passage of pipes under it. So you can't do without a locksmith and a plumber.

At the final stage, it is better to process any table. How to cover it and how to decorate it is a matter of taste. It can be varnished and covered with a tablecloth, or even trimmed with special tiles or even stone. The field for experiments is large.

Many color palettes, including bright ones, will fit into the interior of the kitchen. Do not be afraid to make the table red, yellow or green - it is fashionable, pleasant and aesthetically pleasing, it will create a good mood when cooking, eating and communicating with household members and guests.

And one more tip for kitchen tables. If you want to design a product with a drawer, make the design of the latter as reliable and airtight as possible so that moisture does not get there. Assemble it from several boards or planks and securely fasten them with special glue or nails. When using plywood, it should ideally not be thicker than 20mm.

High-quality grinding and processing is important, including against insects. Remember that the kitchen, as a place to store food and prepare food, is a favorite environment not only for cockroaches, but also for various arboreal and moisture-loving insect species, especially in hot climates.

For computer

The table for the computer should be compact and functional. It is always better to design it with a margin. There are two main concepts:

• Table for desktop computer. If the technique is powerful, for example, gaming, you will have to make the table long and wide enough. A monitor will take up a lot of space on it. A diagonal of 20 inches and wide screen rotation means the user is mobile at the table, which means that there should always be a place where to put your hands. A separate measurement should be made taking into account the dimensions of the keyboard.

Other devices should also be placed on the table - a mouse, joysticks, gamepads, or even a game role. Part of the space will be occupied by the system unit. It can be installed at the bottom of the table - for this you will have to make special ceilings so as not to put the equipment on the floor. The table should not be closed - high-quality cooling is very important for a powerful computer, and open space will provide the necessary air circulation.

At the same time, the design of the table is of no fundamental importance - in any case, it will be forced by technology. The main thing is to use high-quality varnish and paint so that the surface is smooth, it is easy to wipe it and it does not accumulate a lot of dust that is dangerous for equipment.

• For laptop. When measuring, keep in mind that both the computer itself and the hands of a person working or playing behind it should fit on it. Often, a full-fledged keyboard is also separately connected to portable computers, so it is better to use material with a margin. Leave room for the mouse too.

We add that almost any shape of a computer table can be made. Previously, there was an opinion that it should be rectangular, but practical experience has shown that oval tables, in particular for laptops, are a very interesting solution. If you attach wheels to them, turning them into an analogue of a coffee table, you can easily move with a computer around the room - show videos to friends from convenient angles or, conversely, if necessary, quickly and quickly immerse yourself in work or correspondence away from prying eyes.

However, a table with right angles has some specific advantages. It is easier to equip it with drawers and shelves for storing books and CDs. Do not forget about the reliability of fastening these structures, since the weight of a music or game collection can reach 7-10 kg.

night table

It is better to make a night table extremely compact. Dimensions are not his strong point, the main thing is the convenience of the form. First of all, adjust the dimensions of the materials to the height of the bed. It is better to make it flush with the level of the mattress, but it's okay if it gets lower. A tall night table is not too impractical, although it is found as an example in some design schools. If aesthetic qualities are more important to you, it is reasonable to experiment in this direction. In this case, you can choose any shape - from oval to rectangular and square.

The design concept should be included in the composition of the bedroom interior. For classic styles of materials, it is better to choose wood. Moreover, in the case of retro and historical styles, the more authentic it is, the better. If you have skills in artistic carving, then in this case it's time to use them. In modern interiors, a wooden product will also be relevant - if necessary, the texture will be hidden under varnish, paint or a tablecloth. The color scheme depends on the color of the room. The color should be in harmony with the bed, linens, and ideally with the floor and ceiling. Radical contrasts are out of place here.

Particular attention when working on a night table should be given to its stability. The leg can be made big. If there are several of them, they should turn out to be absolutely identical. Please note that they not only put an alarm clock or a table book on the night table, but sometimes they lean on their hands - it should withstand such loads without problems. The table can also be equipped with several drawers, or, if the level of technical skill or the specifics of the material does not allow, with an open shelf.

Coffee table

In many houses and apartments, the habit of laying out newspapers and magazines on the coffee table has already become a thing of the past. They were replaced by new means of communication - various gadgets - from iPhones to laptops. But they also need to be placed somewhere, even if just put on charge. Before making such an interior item, it is better to immediately determine its functionality.

The main thing is to learn one simple truth: no one works for magazine "bureaus" - at best, they earn extra money, so they should be low, aesthetic and comfortable for a relaxed pastime. And it is aesthetics that come first. Your guests will remember, first of all, the design and material of the table. Another point is functionality. It is good if such a table has a space under the tabletop where you can put something.

So, as materials it is better to take chipboard or boards. They should be collected on dowels with the utmost, maximum accuracy - so that the junctions of the elements are not visible.

An additional crossbar will make the table more stable and reliable. If the design incorporates metal (legs), a welding machine will be required. A rectangular metal element can be placed in the base. Do not forget to strengthen the sidewalls in the same way. A very common option with glass (or transparent glue). Such tables are often found in offices, waiting rooms and other "guest" facilities. However, as the experience of many designers shows, it fits well into home interiors.

When manufacturing, it is important to pay attention to a wooden or metal base - it will be visible under glass! Cruciform shapes work well. Do not forget that glass can also be used simply as an additional component. For example, close them part of a classic wooden table. It is advisable to equip the resulting already light object of the interior with wheels. Such a “mini-transport” will be especially relevant in a large living room, as well as in an apartment where there are always a lot of children (then, however, you should not experiment with glass once again). It is a good and useful item for fun and leisure.

But the mobile table should be light. Massive - it is better not to equip with this “bonus”, but to make it from durable heavy overall boards. It will ground the interior, make it more collected.

There is also an option with a table-transformer. It is practical, but not always aesthetic. However, if you make a double (in height) base, then it can even be used as a conditional easel. We add that coffee tables, as a rule, are still small and are usually designed for one, maximum, four people. Sizing is purely personal. Only the height is fundamental - it can vary from 40 to 60-80 cm. Do not forget also that in some situations the product can also be used as a bookcase in combination - for this you will need to make shelves and compartments that meet your needs.

With regard to the color scheme, let's say the contrast of the table top and legs. The combination of metal and wood looks good. You can draw a picture on the surface or make an unusual ornament, but it’s easier to just cover it with something - you don’t have to repaint the products every time you change your mood and taste. And one more thing - about the form. Magazine furniture can be both round and rectangular-square - a matter of taste. Round products are used more often because they are safer and more democratic.

The knights of King Arthur, after all, also sat at the round table, so in the living room, the place of reception and gathering of guests, each of whom often wants to show their individuality and initiative, it is better to do without seats at the head of the table and other patriarchal delights, and for children are safer - once again they will not hit.

Summer cottage furniture

A holiday in nature is a wonderful pastime, however, in order to really have a good rest and sit in a company, you need a high-quality and comfortable table. Such furniture is very specific. On the one hand, it must withstand high humidity - if it is standing outdoors in the rain, on the other hand, it is very unpretentious in terms of aesthetic qualities and always gravitates towards naturalness. In nature, a glass table or an expensive metal product will be inappropriate.

So, before you start making such furniture, you need to decide on an important point: where it will stand and how mobile it should be. Basically there are two options:

• Fixed outdoor table. Typically, such structures are placed near the garden house or away from it in comfortable places to relax - under an apple tree or other fruit tree. The main thing is that such an exterior item be durable and reliable, stand on its “legs” as firmly as possible. It is reasonable in some cases to even dig the legs into the ground. The surface can be anything, but preferably wood.

The main thing is to remove pile and shavings from it, as they can lead to unpleasant and deep injuries or just a splinter. Please note that the surface must be moisture resistant - the table will regularly get wet in the rain. In cases of heavy rainfall or just a long absence in the country, it is better to cover it with something, say, oilcloth. This will not save you from high humidity, but it will protect you from direct contact with water.

• Movable table in the country house. As a rule, this is a more compact option. It can be used indoors, taken out to the veranda or outdoors. The main emphasis in self-manufacturing is best done on the use of lightweight materials so that it can be carried.

Wheels are unlikely to help much (the landscape in the country is not always even), although they can also be attached, but this will make the structure less stable. A good bonus would be the ability to push or assemble the table. For the winter season, such a table can be completely folded and put into the attic so that it does not deteriorate.

What is better to make a table for giving? Pallets, boards, old logs, for example, from an already unnecessary or dilapidated fence, partitions from boxes, an old tire, or whatever, can come in handy. It is better not to use glass and not to abuse metal. The latter tends to rust: this is not so scary, but aesthetically it can spoil all natural harmony, unless, of course, there is a desire to create an entourage of a post-apocalypse.

Boards for countertops in the country are best fastened from below with the help of planks. There is another option with gluing - this is a more time-consuming technology, after processing it will be necessary to pull off the boards and keep them in this state for about a day. If the material is old, it is better to arrange it by color, align it stylistically with color.

Light - to light, dark - to dark, with interweaving of color contrasts closer to the center. Don't strive for perfection with constant alignments - naturalness doesn't have to be symmetrical. The next step is to sand the surface. Better to do it with sandpaper.

When working with legs, the main thing is to make them the same length - otherwise there will be little pleasure in eating at such a table. It is important that their surfaces are not beveled, but even. However, if you dig your legs into the ground, and there is no saw at hand, you can always compensate for a couple of centimeters, but only as a last resort.

Then, after designing the design, the countertop must be varnished. After the first time, the pile will probably rise, so we process it twice. For reliability in the lower part at the final stage, you can make an additional support-mount. It will make the structure more stable and allow you to comfortably position your legs.

In continuation of the work, you can also attach benches to the table - make them part of a single structure. It is better to connect the bench to the table with special wooden planks using nails or long hairpins. For reliability, you will also need washers and nuts. The seats themselves are made according to a similar principle, only their height, of course, is lower than the table, and the mounts should be even more reliable - it is better to make cruciform ones.

The final step is painting. Gray, brown, natural tones look good. Bright colors look too eclectic, unless you have a modern country house design, and instead of trees, artificial vegetation.

And a few more words about the size. As a rule, country tables are long, but not too wide - so it is easier and more convenient to approach them. Do not install them too close to bushes, especially thorns, gooseberries or cherries, it will be painful to approach them.

The distance from the fruit trees must also be reasonable, otherwise you can repeat Newton's experiment, but this is unsuccessful. The height of country tables, as a rule, is made average, since both adults and children usually sit at them. So with built-in seats it is better not to overestimate the design.

How to arrange lighting

This question is relevant both for small night tables and for working products on which a computer is installed. You can put a small floor lamp on the night "buro", it is reasonable to stretch the wire with the switch to the bed so that each time they do not reach for the table and do not drop the lamp in the dark. On a desktop, it makes sense to use a table lamp as well, but as we experiment with homemade designs, other more interesting possibilities emerge.

If you make a small “add-on” above the table from several panels - plywood and chipboard, securely attach them with nails, then under them you can install an ordinary light bulb, or better, an LED. It will be more efficient to use two or three small spot LEDs. They will provide high-quality and uniform lighting.

A child who studies at the table, and an adult in the process of work, can read at any time without problems. To work at a computer (so that the light does not shade the screen), it will be possible to turn on only one point of illumination, which is reasonable to place a little to the side - it will become a source of subdued light.

Among modern design concepts, there are also options for lighting tables from below, through the design of the countertop, however, it will be problematic to cope with such a complex “technical task” without a qualified electrician, and the practical benefits of such structures leave much to be desired.

The choice of light temperature for almost any table design is purely individual and depends more on the place of use. In classic small bedrooms, warm color combinations will be relevant.

In the interior of the kitchen, on the contrary, cold shades will fit more harmoniously. Much depends on the style. Hi-tech, for example, is often imprisoned precisely for a cool range. Accents in the classic, colonial style and some variations of the loft, on the contrary, are best placed on the warm segment.

Forms

The table can be made absolutely anything, completely carved-carved, but the design has already developed several classic and practical shape ideas. Among them:

• Rectangular. It was these tables that were popular in almost all historical eras. In Russia, the boyars gathered behind them, they served as a place for a meal for peasants in huts and the basis of tavern life.

In Soviet times, they were slightly pushed back by other forms - square, designed to minimize living space as such. Now rectangular tables are no longer associated with the ideas of dominance and patriarchy, but have retained their immanent massiveness and hardness. Most often used in large rooms. Suitable for summer cottage, living room, spacious kitchen.

• Square. Products of this form allow you to perfectly organize the space. Their use is reasonable and economical. In addition, it is always possible to move such tables. Often there are folding models that turn from square into rectangular.

It is not easy to make such a product on your own. However, you can simply make two identical tables. Let us clarify that in terms of a home-made approach, it is square and rectangular tables that are suitable for the “pen test” of novice masters. And it’s easy to make, and the field for experiments is wide.

• rounded. A round or oval piece of furniture is suitable as a coffee or night table. This is an ideal shape for apartments where families with children live, as it avoids unpleasant collisions with sharp corners. It is technically more difficult to make them, but the most unexpected items, for example, car tires, can always come to the rescue.

• Designer forms. Table edges do not have to be even. Sometimes they are made curvilinear. Products can be rounded on one side, having right angles on the other. Triangular patterns are becoming more and more popular.

For example, in the kitchen it will be advantageous to look at a table that is rectangular in relation to the seats and rounded towards the sink and cabinets. Guests will be able to sit comfortably, and the hostess or host, while treating them, will not constantly bump into corners. Naturally, the manufacture of such models will require higher technical skills. The main difficulty will be how to cut a suitable shape. This also imposes some restrictions on the materials used - beams, boards and logs in many such structures are technically inapplicable.

How to make from improvised materials

Sometimes it’s hard to restrain the fantasy, then very interesting options for improvised “desks” are born, which can be used both in nature and in modern high-tech interiors and not only - even at work. It is not difficult, for example, to make a table from a car wheel, or rather, tires. Attach chipboard to it on one side - a little less than the radius, and on the other - legs. You can decorate the side surfaces and the lid to your taste.

If you drag the table with fibers or ropes, you will also get an ottoman - two in one at once. To create more effective fasteners, stock up on liquid nails. The cover of such furniture can be made removable and subsequently stored in the "wheel" whatever your heart desires. With a competent approach, such a hiding place will completely become a mini-safe, where you can protect things at least from children, and not every unlucky thief who breaks into your home will guess such a little trick.

Nobody bothers to collect old boxes into a useful design: you get a kind of interesting labyrinth table. However, here you need to be very careful - many craftsmen who posted their creations from boxes on the Internet turned out to be something more like an urn. To avoid this, do not leave too much free space in the center of the structure.

Another, perhaps even more extreme option is to design a table based on an old suitcase. Such Soviet colossus is waiting for the hour of its disposal on many balconies of the country, and perhaps now is their finest hour. Just do not rely in the literal sense of the word on exceptional Soviet quality - it is better to strengthen the product with sheets, for example, plywood. You will need more legs and wheels.

Disinfect the product before starting work. At the final stage, it can be varnished, painted or pasted over with a cloth. This option is suitable for colonial and various retro styles, and in general it will look at least original in any room. With benefit in working on the table, you can also use old frames - the main thing is to strengthen them well. With adequate design, you can achieve all the benefits of the effect of pop art style.

A loft-style pallet table will decorate almost any interior of a modern living room. You can also make an interior object from pallets, from an old window sill or countertop (with an antique effect), from ceramic tiles, professional pipes. A table made of a profile or water pipe is a fashionable idea at all. And in general, almost anything is suitable for creating creative furniture: from old chests and barrels to mirrors, wallpaper rolls and batteries - the main thing is to trust your imagination, sense of style and technical skills in working with material and tools.

Beautiful interior placement ideas

And finally, let's look at some interesting examples of homemade tables in various interiors. Let's start with the cottage. At a distance of a few meters from the landings, a large table made of lacquered boards will fit in well. Light or dark brown color will be in perfect harmony with the greenery. The tabletop is divided into five parts along the narrow part (according to the number of boards). Having fastened them from below, we will keep the effect of naturalness and naturalness.

From below, the table will also be fastened with two overlaps, on which it will be convenient to put your feet. The benches are also attached to the table (consisting of three boards each). Favorable design is emphasized by additional neat carving on the sidewalls. As a result, we have before us almost an example of the pre-revolutionary tsarist Russian style of the mid-19th century, or even modern (how to look).

It was in this environment that connoisseurs of rural idyll met guests at the beginning of the 20th century, organized creative meetings, exhibitions and even theatrical performances. Such a table does not look old-fashioned, it seems to continue the interior of a classic country house, where there is at least glass and metal.

Another example. Table-river for the living room. The easiest way to make a transformer with your own hands is to make an imitation of it, that is, do not use a plug-in structure in your work, but paint the product accordingly. In fact, this is a classic wooden table with a relief surface, which will successfully stand next to a sofa or armchairs.

The color is better to choose depending on the style of the room. Light wood will be in harmony with light light tones and vice versa. The dyed part (blue or its shades) should be in harmony with the chandelier or ceiling. On such a table, low vases with flowers or greenery will look beautiful. The simpler the design of such a table, the better - it can be used both as a coffee table and as a dining table.

The next idea - for a corner computer table - is also quite real for do-it-yourself implementation. We will make the corner parts rectangular, and the one that protrudes on us is of an arbitrary, but wide and comfortable shape, so that you can put your hands on it, put the keyboard. From materials we use plywood or chipboard.

Regular wood will work, as will old countertops, but working with the form in this case will be a little more difficult. If, nevertheless, a “difficult” material is chosen, pay attention to varnishing and painting, it is better to pay special attention to these stages of work.

We use uniform color schemes, without abusing light shades. In our example, the table will be brown. However, for the perfection of the design idea, the color of the table should be harmonized with the color of the monitor, keyboard and system unit.

Among the night tables, a two-level version will be practical and easy to manufacture. It's easier to make it rectangular, but if skills allow, it's better to make it round. The lower overlap is placed at the level of 10-15 cm from the floor, the upper - at the level of the height of the mattress.

For a bedroom decorated in dark colors, a soft dark texture is suitable. The table can be painted even in black paint. It will thus become a color spot in the room, giving additional contrast to the bed and floor. A nice visual effect will appear if you place a carafe of water and a glass on it.

And the last example is a compact small night office with two drawers. In this case, choose dark colors. The wood will need to be well processed and varnished. The design of drawers is as simple as possible.