The choice of material for the construction of the terrace. Do-it-yourself veranda: step-by-step solutions for self-attaching to the house What material is better to build a terrace

The veranda allows you to profitably expand the usable space of a residential building. In a properly erected and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and in the cold season.

An extension is best built so that it closes the front door to the main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda from any desired side of the already finished main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be torn off from the main building and you will have to enter it through the street.

Extension dimensions are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a 3x4 m veranda is enough. It is also important to take into account the general view from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely attach verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.

Important note! Regardless of the chosen size and, in general, the features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project in hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.

With the finished project, go to the local architectural department. Employees of the department will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that it takes about 2-3 months on average to review and approve a project, so it is best to deal with this issue in the winter, before the start of the construction season.

Construction site marking

We are starting to prepare our construction site.

First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil around the perimeter of the future building and take it to flower beds, a garden or another place.

Second step. Align the resulting recess.

Third step. We do markup. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull the rope between the pins. We will be guided by it in the process of arranging the foundation.

We make the foundation

Most often, verandas are built on the bases of a columnar or tape type. The depth of the support is taken equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support with the foundation of the extension, because. these designs will have widely varying weights. Therefore, the degree of their shrinkage will also vary. To prevent a heavy house from pulling a relatively light extension, the latter must be erected on a separate foundation. To do this, leave between the foundations of approximately 3-4 cm gap.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the characteristics of the soil in your area and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.

Tape base

The tape type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, we keep the thickness at the level of 70-80 cm.

First step. We dig a trench along the perimeter of the walls of the extension.

Second step. We level the bottom and walls of the trench, from wooden boards or shields, according to the height of the future concrete support.

Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-cm layer of sand and the same layer of gravel with the obligatory tamping of each ball of backfill.

Fourth step. We lay the reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. So the base will be as strong as possible.

Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of gravel and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In the heat, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.

columnar base

Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. Pits for poles are recommended to be made with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate racks for any size of the veranda. We maintain the distance between the supports within 0.8-1 m.

First step. We dig holes in the places of future pouring of the pillars. The best way to do this is with a drill.

Second step. We fill the bottom of each recess with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour about 10 cm of gravel. We compact each layer.

Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.

Fourth step. Finished concrete supports are coated with bitumen.

Fifth step. We fill the cracks between the ground and the supports with sand.

Sixth step. We erect the above-ground part of the brick pillars. We make the height equal to the height of the foundation of the main house.

Making a subfloor

The floor can be wood or concrete. For example, in a frame veranda made of wooden beams, a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into an extension made of bricks.

We do the wooden draft floor like this:

• we fix the beam of the lower trim on the foundation. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
• we attach wooden logs to the bottom trim. We maintain the step at the level of 50 cm - so the floor will definitely not fail. We use the connection option described above;
• we fill the space between the lags with expanded clay;
• we make flooring from unedged boards or plywood with a thickness of about 50 mm. We fasten the flooring elements to the logs with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We do the concrete screed like this:

• we fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
• pour a layer on top;
• laying reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a grid of bars with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is enough;
• pour concrete.

Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of the level.

We build a wooden veranda

Basic material properties

Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other budget and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.

With the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda, almost everyone can handle it. It is only necessary to properly mount the frame racks and sew them up with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.

The indisputable advantage of wood is its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the arrangement of expensive and difficult to build foundations.

The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a barbecue in such an extension or in its immediate vicinity is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and trifles. Therefore, it is better to take the source of fire somewhere far away from the wooden veranda.

Another significant drawback of wood is its poor tolerance to high humidity, which is why the material needs serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.

Construction order

For the construction of the frame, we use a high quality wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm. We already have the lower trim and the subfloor, so we continue to work following the instructions below.

First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower strapping for the installation of vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.

Second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements, we use staples and screws or nails.

Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. Therefore, the vertical beam, installed at the bottom of the slope, is made 50 cm below the opposite racks.

Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks, no questions will arise - we perform the connections in the same way as in the previous stages.

When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the posts longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low racks at the height of the low racks. We fasten the crossbars with high racks using pre-created samples and nails.

Fourth step. The top harness is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam with all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beam with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the truss system.

Fifth step. We mount in increments of 50 cm. To do this, we use a wooden bar with a section of 100x200 mm. We perform the connection of structural elements by any of the previously discussed methods.

Sixth step. We sew the frame. Lining is perfect for interior cladding, siding or other material is perfect for exterior. Between the materials of the outer and inner skin we lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse rails. The finishing material is also attached to them. When sheathing, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.

Prices for various types of timber

brick verandas

Basic information about building material

Brick is great for building capital verandas. In a building made of this material, it will be cool in summer and, if properly insulated, warm in winter. Brickwork is durable, fireproof and unpretentious in maintenance.

The main disadvantage of a brick building is a lot of weight. Such structures are built exclusively on, which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The order of the construction of the veranda

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is even and does not require any additional preparatory measures. Let's start laying out the walls.

We first select the appropriate type of masonry. The simplest options that are perfect for self-construction of a veranda are as follows:

• spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
• poke masonry. Wall thickness - 250 mm;
• chain laying. Allows you to get walls with a thickness of 380 mm.

First step. We attach a mooring cord at two opposite ends of the foundation with a coupler. It should run along the edge of the base.

Second step. We expose the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. To fasten building elements, we use a standard cement mortar.

Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the desired height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! will be inclined, therefore, the wall falling on the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, are made a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.

Having laid out the last row of walls, we equip the armored belt. To do this, we fix a formwork about 70 mm high on each wall on the upper surface of the walls, put anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

We let the concrete harden, and then we attach a strapping of a wooden beam with a section of 10x10 cm to the anchor bolts. The further procedure for arranging the truss system remains similar to the situation with

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows with heat-insulating material. With single masonry, we carry out insulation, moisture insulation and interior decoration by analogy with a wooden veranda. The exterior finish is up to you. You can simply gently embroider the seams and finish it.

Prices for building and facing bricks

Building and facing bricks

We make the roof of the veranda

And the rafters have been installed. It remains to make the crate, mount the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The lathing can be continuous (for rolled materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make a continuous crate from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the beams of a sparse crate with a step recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the battens to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

The cells between the bars of the crate are filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. We lay a waterproofing film on top and attach it to the crate using a stapler with staples. In the case of arranging a continuous crate, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We fix the insulation plates with the help of transverse rails, nailing them to the crate.

In conclusion, it remains to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. Otherwise, we focus on our preferences and available budget.

Finishing the floor

If the draft floor is wooden, we put insulation in the space between them and fill the flooring from edged boards to the logs. Boards are painted and varnished.

On top of the concrete screed, you can also equip a boardwalk, similar to the previous method, or lay another material of your choice, such as linoleum.

At the end, the doors remain, furnish at your discretion and connect lighting if necessary. We will not pull the wire. It is enough to take the extension cord out of the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself veranda

Terrace - an open area, which is a "transit point" between the house and the street. The choice of flooring for her is not an easy task. The terrace is open to rain, snow, summer heat and winter frosts. Therefore, the material for its coating must retain its functionality in difficult, almost outdoor conditions. And, of course, to have high aesthetic qualities.

Floor coverings for the terrace should have the following properties:

• High frost resistance. This characteristic is provided by a low rate of water absorption - up to 3%. Materials with this indicator are not impregnated with moisture, it does not freeze in the cold and, accordingly, cannot lead to cracking and damage to the coating.
• Moisture resistance. The floor on the terrace is exposed to atmospheric precipitation. Therefore, the materials used for coating should not absorb moisture, deform from it, or rot.
• Durability. Any coating that "works" in atmospheric conditions must be more durable than home coatings. Otherwise, after 2-3 years it will have to be changed.
• Low abrasion. The durability and appearance of the terrace floor directly depend on this indicator. The minimum abrasion class of materials that are acceptable for terraces is IV.
• Anti-slip properties. They are important for the safety of people, especially when walking on a wet or icy terrace floor.
• UV resistant. If a canopy is not planned to be installed above the terrace, then the sun's rays can reduce the color intensity of the coating. This will not happen if you use materials with a high degree of protection from UV rays.

All these characteristics are inherent in the following materials, which are considered the best for covering terraces:

• decking from WPC;
• ceramics (clinker, porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles);
• concrete slabs and tiles;
• stamped concrete;
• stone slabs;
• wooden boards.

Let's consider all these options in detail.

Option 1. Composite decking

To cover the terraces, a very convenient material is a specialized decking board. It is made from a wood-polymer composite (WPC), consisting of plastic (20%) and shredded wood (80%). Composite board is a good alternative to natural wood, combining the aesthetics of wood and the hassle of plastic.

WPC boards look almost natural, but are much easier to care for. They are easy to wash, they do not require special care. WPC material is pleasant to the touch, there are no cracks and knots in it, it does not slip - thanks to the longitudinal grooves.

Advantages:

• high moisture resistance;
• heat resistance - withstands temperatures from -45 ° C to + 80 ° C;
• the presence of anti-slip grooves on the surface;
• does not need additional processing and coating;
• simple installation (dismantling);
• simple care.

The disadvantage of composite decking is the visual and tactile difference from natural wood, which, despite the efforts of manufacturers, can still be traced.

At the moment, decking is the most popular option for patio flooring. However, we recommend that you purchase such a decking board only in specialized and time-tested stores, for example, deckmayer.ru. This store offers excellent value for money and is well established.

Option #2. Terrace ceramics

The most suitable ceramic products for terrace floor:

• clinker;
• porcelain stoneware;
• ceramic tiles for outdoor use.

Clinker tiles (paving stones) are used for finishing terraces on the ground or on a screed. In fact, clinker is burnt brick, which has absolute frost resistance and does not absorb moisture at all. It happens with a smooth and corrugated surface, different colors: from neutral white to rich red. The shape of the clinker tiles is square or rectangular, with straight or beveled edges.

Porcelain stoneware is a frost-resistant and reliable tile that combines ceramics and granite in its composition. It is distinguished by a variety of design, thanks to the ability to imitate different materials: natural stone (any - from granite to marble), wood, leather. Only unpolished porcelain stoneware with a rough surface is suitable for terraces. Laying is carried out on a prepared concrete slab, on frost-resistant glue.

Ceramic tiles are also used for terraces. But you need to choose it more carefully than clinker and porcelain stoneware. It must be frost-resistant (look for the designation on the packaging!), Specially made for paving on the street. Products with a corrugated, structured surface are suitable. Despite the high decorativeness, it is strictly forbidden to use tiles with a glazed, shiny surface for terraces. A suitable degree of abrasion is IV or V class.

Advantages of ceramic products:

• high frost resistance;
• durability;
• color stability under the influence of precipitation and UV rays;
• variety of textures, shapes, colors;
• simple care;
• easy repair (if necessary, you can replace each tile separately).

Disadvantages:

• when paving, it is required to observe a slope so that water does not accumulate on the coating;
• moisture can seep into the seams between the tiles, deforming the coating;
• low impact strength;
• porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles become slippery when iced (this drawback can be circumvented by using special rubber mats with a non-slip effect).

The laying of ceramic tiles is carried out on raised terraces, which are a reinforced concrete slab with a leveling screed. To fix the tiles, use a special adhesive for outdoor use.

We will tell you about how to properly prepare the floor and lay porcelain tiles on it in the material:.

Option #3. Concrete slabs and tiles

The terrace area can be formed by paving concrete slabs or tiles on the ground. Laying is carried out on a cement-sand base. If the terrace is a raised concrete platform, then the slabs can be glued to it using adhesive mixtures for outdoor use. However, laying on a cement-sand mortar is preferable, especially when using large concrete slabs.

With the help of large-sized concrete slabs, you can pave a large area, spending very little time on it. The shape of the plates is rectangular or square. Common sizes: 60x60 cm, 50x50 cm, 60x45 cm, 30x30 cm.

Modern concrete slabs imitate hewn natural stone or ceramics. Plates with an unusual, figured surface are especially popular. For example, with stamped lines that visually divide the slab into several bricks - for styling ceramic paving stones.

Smaller concrete or paving slabs offer a wide variety of designs. They can be of any shape: rectangular, square, diamond-shaped, polygonal, complex wavy. On the surface, various embossings are often performed in the form of lines, cracks (craquelure), squeezes (“under the skin”), geometric shapes, colors, etc.

Advantages:

• strength;
• durability (at least 25-30 years);
• variety of sizes, shapes, colors and surface structures;
• the ability to create various patterns and ornaments from tiles;
• simple installation;
• ease of dismantling and restoration (for example, if it is necessary to lay communications under the coating, it is enough to remove a few tiles and then lay them in place again without changing to new ones).

Disadvantages:

• when paving, it is necessary to observe a slope for water flow;
• in winter, the surface of the tile can be slippery;
• with an improperly prepared base, uneven subsidence of the tile is observed;
• difficult to choose, as high and low quality tiles in the store can look the same.

Thanks to the introduction of coloring pigments into the concrete mixture, the colors of the tiles can be amazing. Now it's not just gloomy gray tones! In free sale there are tiles of absolutely any color: from white and yellow to rich red and deep blue.

Option #4. stamped concrete

This is decorative concrete, the surface of which can copy natural stone slabs, paving stones, wooden parquet, bricks, river pebbles, ceramic tiles. Such a surface can be made on raised terraces, the base is a reinforced concrete slab.

Advantages:

• durability;
• strength;
• the ability to imitate any material;
• solid concrete surface does not allow moisture to seep under the coating;
• ease of maintenance.

Disadvantages:

• gets very hot in summer;
• when using smooth stamps, the concrete surface may be slippery;
• long installation process.

Advantages of a wooden surface:

• warm surface;
• depreciation properties;
• high decorative effect;
• environmental friendliness;
• a wide range of colors, sizes, structures of boards.

Disadvantages:

• changes color under the influence of UV rays;
• difficulties in care;
• regularly requires treatment with antifungal coatings.

In the manufacture of the terrace, planed boards (treated with antiseptics and flame retardants) or special terraced (deck) boards are used. The last option is the best. Terrace wooden boards (decking) are made only from hardwoods (otherwise, heat treatment is used). Their edges are rounded, tenon-groove fastening is not provided. Decking elements are laid at a small distance from each other, due to which atmospheric moisture flows freely through the gaps. The surface of the boards can be not only smooth, but also corrugated (with grooves) - this increases the anti-slip properties of wood.

When choosing materials for the flooring of the terrace, it is not necessary to dwell on one option. If you like several paving methods, why not combine them? For example, combinations of tiles and wood, stone and clinker, clinker and decking are very popular.

As users know, a terrace is not only a place for a pleasant pastime, but also additional square meters of your house, located in the open air. Usually, a terrace is an open platform raised above the ground with a plank flooring that has undergone special processing, which, as it were, covers the house from one or more sides. The terrace can be fenced with light lattice or decorative elements - for example, climbing plants and have a canopy or a roof common with the house.

Also, the terrace becomes indispensable when on a hill, allowing you to successfully beat and hide all the uneven terrain. Even at the design stage, it is important to understand for what purposes it will be used.

Terraces can be made separately from the house, small and large, but their main essence remains the same - it is a comfortable outdoor recreation.

But no matter what kind of terrace you build, you need to remember that its durability, reliability, and hence comfort will largely depend on the choice of coverage, which will always be in adverse weather conditions, which means that its characteristics are subject to increased requirements!

The service life of the terrace covering, and hence the terrace itself, will directly depend on the extent to which this material will be resistant to wind, rain, snow, ultraviolet radiation and wood-boring beetles.

In this material, we will consider modern terrace coatings made of wood and wood-polymer composite. We will find out what the construction market offers today, and what are the basic rules for installing this material.

Types of terrace coverings

At the moment, there are three main classes of wood materials used in the manufacture of terraces:

• Rare and expensive tropical wood species of increased density, and therefore strength, related to the premium class of terrace coatings.
• Specially treated wood - pine or larch.
• Wood-polymer composite.

Of course, if you have money, you should pay attention to expensive and rare woods. It could be - wenge, rosewood, zebrano other. These types of wood have a special, unique texture and color.

However, it should be remembered that the density garapas, kumaru, iroko, massaranduba and other exotic wood species, on average, ranges from 600 to 1200 kg / cu. Because of this, large internal stresses arise in such wood during changes in humidity and temperature, so it will not be possible to fix such a deck board with nails or self-tapping screws.

The density of the most inexpensive, and therefore the most common material for construction and decoration - pine does not exceed 470 kg / cu. m, oak - 700–800 kg / cu. m.

Features of wooden decking

Choosing material for coating pines, you should know that such a board without special treatment with a protective composition is not strong enough and quickly collapses under the influence of atmospheric phenomena, turns gray, and is also prone to mold and fungus. Which over time leads to a change in the color of the board and its fragility and force you to resort to repairing the terrace or completely replacing its coating.

Thus, the low initial cost of a pine board leads to additional material costs over time.

In order to protect the wood, it is treated with antiseptics. But a more modern method of protecting wood - impregnation.

Impregnation is a method of impregnating wood with a protective composition under pressure, which allows the antiseptic to penetrate deep into the surface of the board, which increases the life of the terrace, in contact with earth and water.

User of our forum with nickname RedWoodspb believes that both larch and impregnated pine are all real wood and an excellent material for decking, but with proper installation and coating.

Such wood is a living, breathing material. It is only necessary to take into account whether your terrace is open or not, which means to what extent it is exposed to adverse weather conditions.

Since ancient times, in Russia and beyond, the ideal material for covering terraces and paths is larch.

Our forum member Maxim Stoyanov, when choosing this material , advises to adhere to the following rules:

1. Larch must be necessarily Siberian.
2. Humidity of the material - 11-12% - no lower and no more, and chamber drying.
3. Knots should be healthy and captive. It is not worth taking material with a crack, because in the future they will disperse even more, especially after frost.
4. The optimal thickness of the terrace board is 27, 30, 35 mm, width 90, 115, 142.
5. The optimal distance between the lags is 40-50 cm.
6. You need to use high-quality hidden fasteners, and not the old fashioned way "to nail" board with nails.

When choosing such a material for a terrace as larch, it must be remembered that it requires the correct selection of paintwork. And the quality of the impregnated board ultimately largely depends on the technology of its production.

Also, when choosing a larch board, you need to know that:

• The geometry of the board should be as follows - 30mm thick, 115mm wide; length can be 2, 3, 4 and 6m.
• The board itself is divided into several categories:

1. Extra;
2. Prima;

In different categories, the board differs from each other in the number of knots and surface quality. As the category decreases, the allowable number of knots and cracks increases, but it must be remembered that the loss of knots, as well as their presence on the side edge of the board, is excluded in any category.

• When laying the decking, a gap between the boards of at least 5 mm is required to drain water.

One of the materials for the construction of the terrace can be deck board.

Such a board has no tongues and is rounded on both sides, and also has a smooth surface with a well-defined wood texture.

The second type of deck board is called velveteen.

This decking has a ribbed surface, and is well suited for places with high humidity, such as swimming pools.

Company expert OBI Akmaldinova Anastasia :

- Terrace board made of solid Siberian larch is a convenient covering for terraces, arbors, verandas, garden paths. Also, such a decking board can be used in the arrangement of saunas and pools. And the "anti-slip" surface ensures safe walking on the floor with such a coating, and even on a wet terrace board it is very difficult to slip. And on such a coating it is pleasant to walk barefoot.

It is important to remember that during the construction of a terrace made of natural wood, its durability largely depends on the number of impregnation layers, the moisture content of the wood and the quality of the installation of the terrace itself. And if you follow all the rules of finishing, and regularly update the paintwork of the boards, then such a terrace will last for many years.

Terrace covering from wood-polymer composite

Although natural wood is considered the classic material for covering the terrace, its substitute has become more and more common lately - wood-polymer composite .

WPC decking is a high-tech artificial turf that mimics a classic wooden deck.

Company CEO "Terradek" Dmitry Shuganov :

- You can say that WPC is a material that combines nature and technology. Such a material has great potential for application, because it consists of a mixture of polymers and wood, which means that it is not subject to decay, damage due to insects and does not warp from moisture.

Wood - polymer composite has the following qualities:

• The material does not deform under the influence of high humidity and water.
• Decking, used as a terrace polymer board with a wood composite, looks respectable and cozy at the same time. Regardless of the shape, it has a beautiful even color.

Decking, a derivative of the English word deck - deck. Decking in translation into Russian means a deck covering or flooring made of specially treated wood or a composite material resistant to decay and moisture in the form of boards or modules.

• The material is environmentally friendly, easy to care for, and it also creates a feeling of comfort.
• This material calmly withstands the harsh Russian winter.

Operating experience proves that it does not change its shape and properties even at temperatures up to -50 C.

• WPC is quickly and easily mounted, as special locks provide reliable fastening to the base and the profile easily copes with a distributed load of up to 4000 kg/m2.

Also, when choosing a WPC decking, you should remember about the signs of low-quality secondary raw materials:

1. On the cross section (end) of the WPC terrace profile, numerous inclusions of multi-colored (usually blue, green or dirty gray) balls or stains should not be visible.
2. And in places of a break or a cut, extraneous inclusions should also not be noticeable.
3. The profile of the board should not have a wavy appearance.
4. On cuts into boards, significant "bloating" of internal surfaces and voids should not be noticeable.

It should be remembered that a wood-polymer composite terrace coating cannot be laid on open ground and on a concrete screed without the use of mounting lags. And it is better to use aluminum or wooden logs as a supporting base for such a terrace flooring, because. they are stronger, more reliable and durable.

As for the care of the terrace coating, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

• The terrace should be swept with a soft brush or washed with a pressure washer.

• It is not recommended to use metal brushes, scrapers, shovels when cleaning. they can scratch and damage the surface of the board.

• If small branches, leaves, dirt are clogged between the ribs of the corrugated surface of the terrace board, they are easily cleaned with a jet of water launched under pressure.

And, as practice shows, following these simple rules will allow you to maintain the original appearance of your terrace for many years!

Features of installation of a terrace covering

Often, problems with decking occur due to improper installation. There are no trifles here, and the features of laying the material that directly affect the durability of your terrace largely depend on what the terrace cover is made of.

CEO of the company MasterDeck»Dmitry Baranov:

– A wood-plastic composite deck board is usually made from wood flour and plastic, which "binds" the wood fibers. In modern WPC terraced docks, the wood content is between 50 and 70%. Such a terrace board does not fade and does not require painting.

During the production of such a coating, wood flour is mixed with plastic (it can be polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride), dyes and special additives are added. Then the mixture is heated and squeezed out through a special extruder, which gives the board a given shape.

WPC terrace board is more expensive than pine or larch, but if you look into the future, then a terrace built from wood-polymer composite, taking into account the funds spent on painting and regular care of natural wood, it often turns out to be a more economical option.

Terrace boards from different manufacturers have different thicknesses, widths and shapes. For the most common hollow deck board, it is recommended to buy a board with a thickness of at least 25mm. A thinner board, although cheaper, may lack strength and noticeably "breathe" under your feet. Or you will need to reduce the distance between the lags, which complicates installation and increases the cost of flooring. It is also not recommended to lay a board with the so-called "SH"- figurative profile. The strength of such a board may not be sufficient.

Dmitry Baranov:

– The classic terrace board is laid on the logs and attached to them with the help of special clips that provide a gap between the boards. This gap is necessary to drain water from the terrace and ventilate the space under the flooring.

Also, the terrace board can have a corrugated surface, the so-called "velveteen". Since such a profile provides an anti-slip effect. This board is the most practical and durable. It is also easy to install, does not splinter, does not crack and does not dry out.

The board, made of WPC, the surface of which imitates wood, can only be used in places with low traffic, because. over time, the imitation of the wood texture wears out, and trodden paths may appear on the terrace.

Most types of boards can also be laid on wooden logs, which must be treated with a special compound. Boards are attached to the joists with mounting clips or clamps. It is better to use stainless steel clamps. They are easier to install and much more reliable than plastic clips.

In any case, during installation, the gaps between the ends of the boards and between the boards and the enclosing structures should not be neglected. The fact is that a WPC terrace board expands when heated and, if it is laid close, damage to the enclosing structures and boards is possible. It is this mistake that is the most common and leads to a decrease in the service life of the terrace cover.

Users can learn everything about the construction of terraces, gazebos and canopies. Photos of pavilions and terraces made by the hands of our members of the forum can be viewed About the construction of a terrace with an area of ​​36m. is told. What to choose to cover the terrace with larch or impregnated pine? You will find out the answer to this question. And this video tells about the wooden paths and terrace made by the owner of the frigate house.

Building a house, no matter what time of the year it will be built, requires careful selection of materials.

Another important factor in finding suitable wood is the climate of the area in which the house will be located.

Considering all the required characteristics of the material, as well as the personal preferences of the owners (regarding the width of the beam or log, colorful structure), a suitable option should be found. That is why a brief description of each of their wood species will answer the question: what kind of wood is better to build a house from?

Pine houses

Familiar wooden houses built of pine have long come into use. And the reason here, perhaps, lies in certain customs that the people have adopted since time immemorial.

In addition, this material has a low price category.

The density of pine is sufficient to provide a truly warm and secure home. But it is worth remembering that all coniferous trees can succumb to blueing due to the appearance of various harmful fungi. In particular, this can be avoided if reliable protection of wood from various harmful manifestations is ensured before construction.

It is also necessary to remember that if this ailment nevertheless appeared, the problem can be solved locally and there should be no reason for excitement. By treating wood with special compounds, you can completely eliminate the blue and bring it to its original, normal appearance. In addition, these compositions will in no way affect a person. But if the owner still does not want to carry out the processing in the presence of the family, you can take a short vacation for yourself and go on a trip for this time.

The most important is the ubiquity of pine, which has become a significant indicator of its price category. A large number of companies offer to purchase this material at a discount or initially at a low cost.

But it is worth remembering that the process of building from pine is optimal in the winter. Thus, any problems with the appearance of the fungus will be stopped "on the vine" - this is a significant plus of the material.

Spruce houses

Spruce also belongs to conifers and therefore its qualities differ slightly from the pine considered above. But there are also some other properties.

For example, the looseness of the material is somewhat higher, and this should be remembered when starting construction. However, a large number of modern processing compounds will also reliably protect it from fungus. But the most interesting thing is that houses made of spruce are somewhat warmer than pine buildings. The fact is that the material itself, due to its “friability”, passes external cold much worse in winter periods, and also “reluctantly” gives off coolness in the summer.

The cost of eating is slightly higher. And the difference will become noticeable only when the structure being built has a really large area. For small houses, the difference will be almost imperceptible.

Susceptibility to fungal diseases and blue blight is as common among spruces as it is among pines. But there is a panacea for this - an antiseptic. And besides, the level of diseases among this tree species in conditions of high humidity, as well as various additional factors, is somewhat lower. And if the problem with the appearance of sapwood scares the buyer, then this particular material should be preferred.

Construction, as in the case of using pine, is best done in winter, but using only high-quality dried materials.

larch house

This material occupies a special place among all tree species that are selected to start construction.

First of all, it is worth noting a slight sapwood, which, when removed, allows you to simplify the task as much as possible with the possibility of blue. She will simply be absent.

The heat that larch provides in the house is slightly higher than that of spruce and significantly higher than that of pine. That is why this wood is recommended for use in areas with frequent frosts. It will keep the coziness and warmth in the owner's house even in extreme cold.

Another advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to water. Even if water constantly gets on the tree, it will not soak and absorb moisture significantly.

On the contrary, it will only get harder. This feature allows the use of the material in areas with high rainfall and high humidity. Its positive properties in the bud will exclude the presence of any problems for the long-term operation of the building.

Larch, in addition to the above characteristics, is also minimally affected by a variety of pests. In particular, its additional processing with special compounds is simply not required. That is why it is used in areas where a large number of various insects are noted that can destroy the structure of the tree.

There will be no savings, since the tree is quite expensive and not every buyer, unfortunately, can afford to use larch as the main building material for the house.

But if the customer wants to become the owner of a truly amazing building, then the final amount will fully pay off over many years of use.

In addition, larch is minimally susceptible to fires. That is why it is recommended to use it in areas with too high temperatures during the summer periods, because. it is almost twice as resistant to fire as pine logs and timber.

Larch also has a rather original woody pattern, which allows it to be used to build the most unusual and exclusive houses. The color can vary from light brown to dark, almost black, depending on the age of the tree.

Do not forget about such useful qualities of wood as a beneficial effect on the human body. All residents of the houses noted a positive attitude, increased tone and also improved blood circulation. On the advice of doctors, it is best to live in such wooden houses for those buyers who, first of all, want to restore their health, improve their condition and, of course, raise healthy children.

cedar houses

First of all, it should be noted that this material becomes the best option when building houses with a large area.

The fact is that the height of the trees is sufficient to pick up materials for the construction of a large structure.

Also of particular importance is the variety of shades of wood. In particular, it can be either a light yellow tone or amber with a pink sheen. All this allows you to build your dream home, which will be both beautiful and reliable.

Due to the lightness of the tree, it can also be used with foundations with a smaller overall structure and simpler construction. In particular, considering small buildings, you can resort to using cheaper, but no less durable foundations.

Cedar also has a fairly soft wood structure, which allows it to be used in a variety of forms. Processing is easy, given the scope for cutting and giving unusual and even non-standard shapes. In particular, decorating a cedar house with a variety of transitions and other original additions is not difficult. And even platbands can be cut out of cedar in a minimum period of time. This will allow you to create a building in a more folk style or choose a modern high-tech design direction and completely follow the drafted project during construction.

Cedar is just as useful for the residents of the house as larch. It allows you to normalize the state of the body and feel not only cheerful, but also do your favorite things, hobbies enthusiastically at any convenient time.

oak houses

Oak is one of the most delightful building materials. It has a large number of positive characteristics and, in addition, is one of the largest types of trees used for summer cottage construction.

A feature of oak is the difference in shades of wood depending on the distance from the core. For example, rings closer to the core will be light yellow or beige, while those farther away will have a richer brown tint.

The top layer is insignificant and therefore, if desired, it can be easily removed.

The fact is that the core is considered the most durable part of the tree.

And for oak, this indicator is several times higher than the outer "shell".

Due to the use of trees in construction only with an age of more than 30 years, it is possible to obtain wood with a mysterious wide pattern. But it is worth remembering that an oak house is an expensive pleasure. And to get all the desired qualities, you need to invest a fairly large amount of money.

Humidity has little effect on oak. And this characteristic is quite comparable with the stability of larch.

But the strength of oak is much superior to all other tree species. Oak can crack, but with proper processing it will hardly be noticeable. And this process will occur evenly and accurately.

How to build a wooden house from logs

It should be noted that oak itself is used in many construction industries and therefore it is not difficult to find suitable finishing materials and additional accessories from oak. So, creating a great building with a really good performance will be a piece of cake.

Oak is an age-old tree and noble houses are obtained from it: durable, not exposed to moisture, neat and, most importantly, very beautiful. By choosing the right shade of materials, you can create a simpler style, and give preference to a more sophisticated project.

Linden houses

Although many buyers do not consider this option as the main one, linden houses are also quite common.

The fact is that this wood does not have a special preservation of heat, in accordance with the indicators of other species. That is why it is most often used for the construction of baths or any other non-residential buildings.

But at the same time, she has an amazing appearance. Linden houses are light, delicate in color and are able to cheer up with their exterior alone and allow you to reach new heights.

The cost of this material is low, and therefore it is possible to build a house from it at a more reasonable cost than from oak or cedar.

It is worth remembering that linden requires special pre-treatment so that no pests subsequently become the main problem for residents of the house. Linden also contributes to the normalization of sleep. People living in linden houses noted its beneficial effect.

And this factor, in view of the great turmoil of the modern world, cannot be overlooked.

Linden houses are reliable and durable. They will differ from similar structures made of other wood. But at the same time they can really be called both unique and unrepeatable. They will bring something new and light, pleasant and useful to the life of the owner. This material has its own harmony and charges all residents with it.

Choosing the right material for building a house, in no case should you buy the first wood you like. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with all the characteristics of the area in which the construction of the building will be carried out. And it is also quite important to choose the “right” material. For example, it is necessary to remember both the colorfulness of wood and its pattern. All this will allow you to accurately execute the drafted project and get a truly amazing result.