Why drill holes for self-tapping screws or how easy it is to screw in a self-tapping screw. How to screw a screw into the end of a chipboard. Why drill holes for self-tapping screws or how easy it is to screw in a self-tapping screw How to screw a screw into the end of a chipboard

How to screw in a screw?

Take any screwdriver and twist until you have enough strength. And there is no screwdriver - nail it with a hammer, like a nail!

Does this happen? - Ask an experienced master.

Unfortunately, it happens, and often. But it would not be worth starting a conversation about screws just for the sake of telling common truths: screws cannot be screwed with the first screwdriver that comes across, and even more so - beaten with a hammer. There are other subtleties.

Screws differ in size (diameter and length), the shape of the head - countersunk (flat on top), semi- countersunk (slightly rounded) and semicircular, as well as the shape of the slot, which can be diametrical and cruciform.

What are the benefits of Phillips screws? Special screwdrivers, having a cross-shaped tip of the working part, seem to find the slot themselves. This is a significant advantage. But working with such screws requires accuracy, especially when they are small. With excessive force, the slot is cut off, turning into a cone-shaped hole, and the screw has to be replaced with a new one.

Why does a screw have a thin, sharp and deep thread with a conical run at the end? Because he himself cuts a thread in wood when screwing in (a tap for himself).

First of all, carefully consider and determine the joints, select the screws of the desired size and shape, mark the attachment points with a ruler and prick them with an awl. Then prepare each of the parts to be joined. In the part where the screw head will be located, drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw. If the screw has a countersunk or semi-counterhead head, countersink with a countersink or drill with a diameter equal to or slightly larger than the head diameter. In the part into which the screw will be screwed, also drill a hole, but for this, take a drill 15-20 percent smaller than the diameter of the screw. The drilling depth should be somewhat greater than the screwed part of the screw. For 3mm screws. and less threaded drilling is optional, it is enough to prick with an awl. But for large screws and when working with hard woods, pre-drilling is required: it is easier to screw in the screw, and the connection will be tighter. In addition, cracking of wood is excluded.

So, everything is ready. Lubricate the screw lightly with grease, technical petroleum jelly or machine oil. We do not recommend lubricating the thread with soap; although this also facilitates screwing, it worsens the reliability of the connection, since due to the aggressiveness of the caustic used in soap making, the screw quickly rusts. Now take a screwdriver, but not just any, but only of a suitable size and shape, with a well-filled working part, and screw the screw.

There are many ways to drive screws into a concrete or brick wall. Here are some of them.

Block a wooden cork with a pre-drilled threaded hole in the wall with alabaster and screw a screw into it.
Pre-lubricate the screw with machine oil, wind a wire with a diameter slightly smaller than the thread pitch onto the thread, immure it all into the prepared nest. When the alabaster seizes, the screw can be unscrewed, and fixing the part, screw it in again. The thread of the screw will go into the socket, like a nut, and will give a tight connection.
A kind of dowel (if there is no factory one) can be made from a two-wire electrical wire in vinyl chloride insulation. Bend a piece of wire in half, bury it in the hole, and cut the free ends that are outside, flush with the wall. A screw can be screwed into such a dowel.

In chipboard (chipboard), screws usually do not hold well due to the graininess and heterogeneity of the material structure. It is recommended to glue wooden plugs in the place of fastenings. If the fastening is not very loaded, it is possible to drive screws directly into the chipboard, but then pre-drilling and abundant lubrication are required. Wooden plugs should be made so that the screws are screwed across the fiber. Screwed along the fiber (at the end of the wood), they hold much weaker. The length of the plug must be at least 30 mm. even for short screws. The small cork does not hold well in the wall. The length of the cork for chipboard is determined by the thickness of the board.

To reiterate, never hammer screws like nails. Such a connection is meaningless, because the screw and the wood, where it is driven, are significantly destroyed, the screw will work not as a tap, but as a punch, and a tight connection will not work. Only a correctly placed screw gives a strong and reliable connection and, if necessary, convenient and easy disassembly.

The modern market of building fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, the reviews about these "little helpers" are not always flattering.

The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to properly screw in a screw and how to choose it correctly in general.

Types of self-tapping screws

There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - "screws" for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of threads).

There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized ones. No, of course, screwing them into these materials will not be difficult, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to be qualitatively located in the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.

Self-tapping tools

Fasteners may have caps of different sizes and recesses in them of various shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or a screwdriver with a suitable nozzle in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have nozzles for the corresponding tools, as they say, to the maximum. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of devices during operation cannot be avoided.

Note! The best nozzles are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Don't opt for the first set that comes across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.

If your plans include wrapping one or two self-tapping screws into a non-solid surface, then you can work with a screwdriver. If more - you can not do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.

General technology for screwing screws

Using an awl, make a small indentation in the place reserved for the self-tapping screw. Install the product in position. With careful but sure movements, turn the part until it is well deepened and fixed in the material. After that, the force can be increased. Toward the end of the “process”, the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the self-tapping screw.

How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?

Concrete

Many men, not knowing how to screw a screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete with the help of dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.

Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.

Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not withstand, let alone a conventional one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal.

Brick, ceramic tiles, screed

Self-tapping screws are screwed into these environments in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that it is better to take a regular drill to work with tiles, as it can crack from the excessive power of the puncher.

Copper, bronze, aluminum

Measure the shank diameter of the fastener excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Install the pointed jaws perpendicular to the self-tapping screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter one and a half millimeters smaller than the value obtained, make a hole in the material. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole - and the job is done. Use parts with universal thread.

Note! Before "perforating" the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw passes into the hole tight enough, but does not jam. In the event that the screw fails to "break through", you should work with a thicker drill. Too light twisting of the part symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw can pop out at any moment.

hard metals

The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the unthreaded bar diameter. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, it is almost impossible to screw these fasteners into cast iron.

Plastic

Not every plastic is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure that the material fits exactly before starting work will not be superfluous. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.

Wood, fiberboard and chipboard

Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, there is nothing easier. The main rule is to use only wood screws. For hardwoods, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of splitting the material with a self-tapping screw. For thick softwood boards, this manipulation can be dispensed with.

If you are working:

with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping rod (naturally, without thread);
with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.

Drywall

Mark points on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal step between the screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you use a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product at maximum speed. After the screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to the minimum. When tightening with a conventional screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally, it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future design. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.

The type of self-tapping screws for drywall must be selected depending on the material used in the installation of the crate. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for a wooden crate - wood products.

How to tighten the screwed out screw?

The unscrewed part must be re-twisted exactly as it stood before. It is very important that the self-tapping screw enters the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” a “new path” for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an already existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. You do not need to press on a tight-fitting self-tapping screw, you just need to remove it and try again. A small effort is required only at the very end of screwing.

Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of "work hitches".

For the manufacture of furnishings, various elements for connecting parts are used. Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its undeniable advantages. Especially often they are used to assemble cabinet furniture, providing a solid and durable connection of parts of the structure.

Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its undeniable advantages.

It is important to select fasteners based on the material and its density, thickness, etc.

This type of fastener, like a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end. The head of the element has a notch (straight, cross or polygonal) for twisting it into a canvas. For faster connection of parts of a cabinet or other object for elements with a sharp end, a screwdriver is used (in the absence of a screwdriver).

Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into a wooden panel or chipboard. For hidden fastening of furniture parts, an eccentric coupler is used, in which self-tapping screws play the main role. As a result of this type of assembly, tables or other objects are neat, without external traces of installation that spoil the appearance of the product.

This type of fastener, like a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end.

Important! The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above. Such fasteners are intended for thick solid wood panels.

The appearance of the product is affected by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.

Depending on the material and design details, there are two types of fasteners:

with a rare carving and a sharp end;
confirmations.

Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into a wooden panel or chipboard.

The first type is used for solid wood, chipboard, chipboard and MDF. May vary in length and diameter.

Note. To assemble narrow canvases and plywood, short screws are used.

The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above.

The second is used for the manufacture of furniture mainly from wooden boards of sufficient width. It differs in that at the junction of the thread and the smooth upper part, a thickening begins on it. Confirmates often have a flat end and therefore require prepared holes.

Confirmates often have a flat end and therefore require prepared holes.

Such fasteners are intended for thick solid wood panels.

Advantages and disadvantages

For the layout of furniture fasteners are essential. And the appearance of the product is affected by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.

For the layout of furniture fasteners are essential.

The advantages of self-tapping screws as fasteners are:

eccentric screed;
accurate and reliable connection;
precision in fitting parts.

When buying self-tapping screws, it is important to consider many points.

Especially often they are used to assemble cabinet furniture, providing a solid and durable connection of parts of the structure.

If a set of self-tapping screws is used to assemble a furniture structure, then with careless work with them it is possible:

distortion of parts;
loosening of fastening with repeated screwing.

The base of the screws is steel.

How to choose?

When buying self-tapping screws, it is important to consider many points. The base of the screws is steel. To connect specific parts, elements with different coatings are used. When assembling furniture, you must consider:

length of fasteners;
their diameter;
cap thickness;
carving;
degree of corrosion (depending on the coating).

To connect specific parts, elements with different coatings are used.

Also, the type of construction and the desired appearance of the product affect the selection of self-tapping screws.

The color of the fasteners is also important in an open connection. In this case, it is worth choosing elements to match the canvas.

The color of the fasteners is also important in an open connection.

To make a table or cabinet, you may need different screws, so it is recommended to consult with the seller if you are going to create furniture yourself.

It is worth choosing elements to match the canvas.

Self-tapping screws have specific differences.

Confirmate is used for a more reliable screed. At the same time, a cap is often made on the hat so that the fasteners look more aesthetically pleasing.

To make a table or cabinet, you may need different screws.

Self-tapping screws are used for fixing parts without prepared holes or with them.

VIDEO: Furniture screws

The furniture coupler is applied only in production of furniture. In the manufacture of furniture, traditional fasteners should not be used instead of furniture ties, because. it has special properties that not only facilitate the assembly of furniture, but also allow you to hide fasteners. Next, consider the most commonly used types of furniture ties and their features.

Confirmate

The most common type of fastener is confirmat. At the same time the easiest to use. With its help, it is easier and faster to assemble furniture than with the use of other types of furniture ties. Especially if during assembly you have to drill holes for fasteners yourself. With the help of a confirmator, two parts are connected at an angle of 90 degrees.

Fig.1.

In order to tighten the two parts, you need to drill two holes. One in one part, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmate head, the other, at the end of the second part, of a smaller diameter equal to the diameter of the threaded part.

As a rule, drills with a diameter of 6 and 5 mm, respectively, are used for this. However, there is a combination drill for sale for simultaneous drilling of holes. It is very comfortable. There is no need to constantly rearrange the drills or use two drills at the same time.

Fig.2.

Confirmat is a universal fastener, but it has some disadvantages and application features.

Confirmat should be used simultaneously with the use of dowels. A dowel is a wooden rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 20-30 mm (pictured below, next to the confirmation). The dowel acts as a guide and does not allow the parts to move during tightening.

Fig.3.

Despite the fact that furniture assembled using Confiramate can be assembled or disassembled, furniture made of laminated chipboard does not tolerate this very well. As a rule, after one disassembly, the furniture screed does not hold well.

Confirmate should be wrapped carefully. The best option is manually or with a screwdriver at low speed. Otherwise, the thread of the confirmation turns into a drill that breaks the hole.

Fig.4.

In order to drown the hat into the body of a piece of furniture, you should use a key and do it carefully, otherwise there is a possibility of the thread breaking. Sometimes it is necessary to pre-do the tsikkovka.

Confirmat refers to "visible" fasteners. Those. unlike other types of fasteners, it remains visible, so you need to use special plugs or stickers to hide the fasteners.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

Eccentric coupler

An eccentric screed is more often used in the factory manufacture of furniture. The reason for this is the difficulty of drilling holes. The eccentric coupler consists of two parts - a hairpin and an eccentric. The pin is installed in one part, and the eccentric in another.

Fig.7.

The main advantage of this type of fastener is that this fastener is hidden, and therefore does not spoil the appearance of the furniture. In addition, this type of fastener, unlike confirmat, allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, which is important, for example, when moving. Also, with the help of an eccentric screed, you can connect parts at different angles.

In self-manufacturing of furniture, it is not often used due to the complexity of drilling holes and the impossibility of correcting the joint during assembly. The main difficulty in drilling holes lies in the hole for the eccentric. This hole is not through and requires the use of a special drill - a Forstner drill.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Fig.10.

In this case, the sampling depth is about 12 mm, and the thickness of the laminated chipboard is 16 mm. The remaining wall thickness is only 4 mm. There is a risk of drilling more than necessary, thereby spoiling the piece of furniture. Therefore, when drilling holes for the eccentric brace, it is necessary to use drilling depth gauges.

Fig.11.

Intersection screed

This coupler is a screw and a nut, with the help of which two sections of furniture are pulled together, for example, two cabinets. For screed cabinets, 2 - 4 intersection screeds are used. Depending on the thickness of the laminated chipboard, there is an intersection screed of various sizes.

Fig.12.

Given that the intersection screed is used for screeding cabinets, and the cabinets, in turn, are made of chipboard 16 mm thick, an intersection screed with a length of 32 mm is most often used. However, there are ties up to 50 mm long, which are used to tighten parts that have a large thickness.

Fig.13.

Shelf holders

There are a huge number of types of shelf holders. However, they can be divided into two groups: shelf supports for laminated chipboard and shelf supports for glass. In turn, each of these groups can be divided into two types: shelf holders with and without fixation.

The shelf holder for laminated chipboard consists of 2 parts: a rod and a shelf holder.

Fig.14.

The screw is installed in the wall of the cabinet, and the shelf holder in the body of the shelf. To mount the shelf support, it is necessary to drill holes in the shelf and cabinet wall. For most shelf supports, hole sizes are standardized, they are shown in the figure below. However, when installing the shelf support, you should carefully read the instructions so that there is no error.

Fig.15.

It should be noted that shelf holders for laminated chipboard come with and without fixation. The fixed shelf holder has an eccentric mechanism, thanks to which the shelf will be firmly connected to the cabinet wall. The shelf holder with fixation has one more advantage, shelf holders of this type carry the role of additional reinforcement of the furniture structure.

Fig.16.

Glass shelf holders have a simpler design. They are fixed only to the cabinet walls with a self-tapping screw.

Fig.17.

Shelf holders for glass without fixing are a rod or a corner. Shelf holders with fixation have a special screw with which the glass is firmly fixed and cannot accidentally fall out. Fig.19. Screed for countertops. Provides reliable connection of two parts of table-tops. To improve the accuracy of connecting parts, it is desirable to use in conjunction with a dowel. For a standard screed, non-through holes are made in the connected parts of the worktops with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 19 mm. The distance between the holes must be 15 mm less than the length of the tie. The width of the groove must be at least 7 mm.

To tie two countertops, use a pair of ties. To install the screeds, it is necessary to make recesses for the screed stops and a slot for the screw. This can be done in various ways. The most affordable option is the following. The recess for the stops is made with a Forstner drill of a suitable diameter, the slot for the screw can be made using a jigsaw.

Fig.20.

furniture corner

This type of fastener is used to connect two parts. This is a rather fragile method of connection, therefore, parts that are not expected to be affected by large loads are fastened with it. Usually these are decorative elements, for example, the plinth of a wardrobe or mezzanine shelves.

Fig.21.

Often plastic corners are used instead of metal ones. They are no less durable, but have a more attractive appearance and the possibility of hidden fasteners. The furniture corner is attached to two mating parts using two self-tapping screws. Then the lid is snapped on, thus hiding the fasteners.

Fig.22.

The furniture fasteners discussed in the article are the most common and most frequently used, due to the fact that these are the most versatile and easy-to-use types of fasteners. In the vast majority of cases, the described types of furniture fasteners are enough to assemble any furniture.

The abundance of shiny fasteners on the shelves of hardware stores is pleasing to the eye, but makes it awkward to stomp at the window of every person who is not professionally involved in the implementation of fastening equipment. The purpose of half of the screws is not clear, but it’s kind of awkward to ask the seller ... Let's try to understand the variety of screws - self-tapping screws on the modern market. After 5 minutes, you will be surprised to find that everything is much easier than it seems.

Screw - self-tapping screw. Where does the confusion come from

What is the difference between a screw and a self-tapping screw? I suggest looking into GOST 27017-86, which gives the following definition of a screw:

Screw - a fastener in the form of a rod with an external special thread, a threaded conical end and a head at the other end, forming a thread in the hole of the connected wooden or plastic product.

As follows from a document dated 1986, the use of this type of fastener involved pre-drilling a hole and limited the material of the fastened elements to wood or plastic. For this type of screws, brass, low-carbon steels (St1, St2, St3, 10kp) or corrosion-resistant steels without galvanic coatings are used. As a fastener, the classic screw is not very popular, but today it is still found as a cheap alternative to self-tapping screws.

A self-tapping screw is a new stage in the evolution of fasteners. Formally, it corresponds to the definition from GOST, which we cited above, but has significant design differences (the shape of the slot, coil, thread and tip) and is made of high-quality steels with corrosion-resistant coatings.

As the name suggests, a self-tapping screw can cut threads on its own and is used without pre-drilling holes. A self-tapping screw can handle not only wood and plastic, but metals, concrete, brick, etc. Given the variety of fasteners, it is useful to know their sizes and classification. Below are convenient tables for each type.

Decryption example

Screw 1 - 4×25 GOST 1145-80

Screw 4 mm diameter, 25 mm long, mild steel, not galvanized

Standardized marking looks like this, but in practice everything is much simpler. On the box that you take from the shelf, only the purpose of the screws and their dimensions will be written.

Standard sizes of self-tapping screws - screws

The size of a self-tapping screw is determined by only two values: length and diameter.

Universal screws

They are usually made with incomplete thread. Used for wood, chipboard and other soft materials. Self-cutting properties are low. By standards GOST 1144-80, 1145-80 , 1146-80 are available in diameters 1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 8.0, 10.0 mm and lengths 13, 16, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120 mm.

Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm
2.5	10	3.0	10	3.5	10	4.0	13	5.0	16
	13		13		13		16		20
	16		16		16		18		25
	18		18		18		20		30
	20		20		20		22		35
	22		22		22		25		40
	25		25		25		30		45
			30		30		40		50
					40		45		60
							50		70

Self-tapping screws for wood, chipboard, fiberboard, plastics

One of the most common self-tapping screws. Used for dowel mounting. It comes with a galvanized coating (white) or galvanized and chromate passivated (yellow), sometimes treated with phosphate.

Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm
3.0	10	3.5	10	4.0	12	4.5	16	5.0	16	6.0	30
	12		12		16		20		20		40
	16		16		20		25		25		45
	20		20		25		30		30		50
	25		25		30		35		35		60
	30		30		35		40		40		70
	40		35		40		45		45		80
			40		45		50		50		90
			45		50		60		60		100
			50		60		70		70		120
					70		80		80		140
									90		160
									100		180
									120		200

Capercaillie screw with hexagonal head

DIN 571 and GOST 11473-75. Designed for fastening logs, rails and other tasks that require enhanced fixation. Usually galvanized.

Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm	Ø mm	length, mm
6.0	30	8.0	40	10	40	12	100
	40		50		50		120
	50		60		60		140
	60		70		70		160
	70		80		80		180
	80		90		90		200
	100		100		100		230
	120		120		120		250
	160		140		140		280
	180		160		160		300
			180		180
			200		200
					220

Screws for fastening to metals

Screws according to DIN 7981, DIN 7982, DIN 7982

Visually similar to universal ones, but differ in materials of manufacture, lead angle and thread profile angle (up to 60 degrees).

Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm
3.5	13	3.9	13	4.2	13	4.8	16	5.5	16	6.3	16
	16		16		16		19		19		19
	19		19		19		22		22		22
	22		22		22		25		25		25
	25		25		25		32		32		32
	32		32		32		38		38		38
	38		38		38		45		45		45
			45		45		50		50		50
			50		50		60		60		60
							70		70		70
							80				80

Screws according to DIN 7504

Structurally, they are almost completely identical to pointed metal screws DIN 7981, 7982 , 7983 (see table above). The key difference is the tip that performs the function of a drill.

Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm
3.5	13	3.9	13	4.2	13	4.8	16	5.5	22	6.3	22
	16		16		16		19		25		25
	19		19		19		22		32		32
	22		22		22		25		38		38
	25		25		25		32		45		45
			32		32		38		50		50
			38		38		45
							50

Self-tapping screws for sheet metal and metal-based products

Self-tapping screws with a press washer

They are found on sale both with a drill (for metal up to 2 mm thick) and a sharp tip (designed for metal up to 0.9 mm). Standard diameters 4.2 (4.0) mm and length - 13, 14, 16,
18, 19, 22, 25, 32, 41, 51 mm.

Self-tapping screw with a semi-cylindrical head ("bug")

Similarly to its predecessor, it can be both sharp and with a drill. This self-tapping screw does not have a dimensional ruler and it is found in a single dimensional version:

With a sharp tip - 3.5 x 11

With a drill tip - 3.8 x 11

Self-tapping screws with hexagonal head

Are intended for work with sheet metal without preliminary preparation of an opening. Provides reinforced fastening. From one manufacturer to another, variations in the dimensions of products in this segment of fasteners are possible. The tables below show the most popular ones.

With a sharp tip.

For metal sheets up to 0.9 mm.

With drill (DIN 7504-K)

For thick metal (5mm or more). The length of the tip - the drill determines the max. sheet metal thickness.

Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm
4.2	19	4,8;5,0	14	5.5	19	6.3	19
	21		19		25		25
	25		25		32		32
	32		38		38		38
			45		51		45
			51		64		51
			64		76		64
			76				76
							90
							102
							127
							152

Self-tapping screws for drywall

Manufactured with a countersunk conical reduced head, a cross slot, a two-start thread of a variable profile and a sharp tip. The dimensions of fasteners for mounting on a wooden frame or a metal profile with a thickness of less than 0.9 look like this: Ø 3.9 mm with lengths of 19, 25, 30, 45 mm .

Self-tapping screws for fixing boards and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard, plywood

As a rule, these are galvanized screws (FLUGEL) with a size of 5.0 x 36

Meet with a countersunk conical head and notches for countersinking a countersunk hole ( DIN 7504P) with dimensions:

Roofing screws

When installing the roof, it is advisable to use standard galvanized self-tapping screws. They are not susceptible to corrosion. The table with a dimensional ruler looks like this:

Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm	Ø,mm	length, mm
4,80	20	5,50	19 (20)	6,30	19 (20)	7,00	122
	29		25		25		142
	35		32		32		162
	38		38 (40)		38 (40)		177
	50		51 (50)		50
	60		64 (62)		60
	70		76 (78)		70
	80		100		80
			115		90
			130		100
			150		130
			180		150
			235		175
					200
					235

Roofing screws with painted heads are available. The paint creates additional protection against external factors. And they do not spoil the exterior of the roof, as they are "selected" by color.

Screws and self-tapping screws for special purposes

Confirmates

Confirmat or "euro-screw" is a separate category of fasteners. It is designed to assemble furniture panels. It is made with various protective and decorative coatings (often galvanized). The thread pitch is rare. The task is to pull the parts to each other. The head has a characteristic difference. A special hexagon is required for screwing.

Screws for concrete

Screwed into a pre-drilled hole. The use of a perforator is not recommended. Hence the complexity of the process. Before screwing in, you need to drip machine oil - this will make the procedure a little easier. Type of fasteners, which is called "forever". Withstand high loads (up to 100 kgf). There are: Ø 7.5 mm. Length: 50, 70 (72), 80, 90, 100, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160,180, 200,… mm.

Window screws

Hole preparation is not required. They work as "amplifiers" of windows and have the following dimensions: Ø 3.9 mm, lengths: 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 32, 35, 40 (38), 45 mm.

Frame screws

Large screws with high strength. They are screwed into the dowel and sometimes come with it.

Adjustment screws

A characteristic feature is the second thread. The first thread (usually smaller) is necessary for fastening to the base, the second serves for mounting the substructure.

Screws are popular screws ∅6 mm and length: 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130, 145 mm.

Screws for scaffolding

Nail screws

Screws for hangers

They are very convenient in everyday life, for example, for several years we have been hanging a children's swing on such fasteners in the corridor of a city apartment. Installation and removal time - literally 1 second! There is no single standard for the size of this element, and each production forms a size range at its own discretion.

Cheat sheet for the home master

The following tables will help guide you in choosing the right fastener.

We distinguish the product by type of thread

Self-tapping screws differ in the frequency of turns. A small pitch allows the use of fasteners for metal parts. Screws with sparse threads are designed for materials with low density. This includes: asbestos, gypsum, plastic and so on. In appearance, self-tapping screws can be classified as follows:

thread pitch	Special purpose
	Universal self-tapping screws. Designed for fastening objects from any materials (they are the most common).
Frequent, with thread in double sunset	Designed for attaching to a metal profile up to 0.9 mm thick without the use of dowels (preliminary preparation of the hole is necessary, are available with a drill on the tip, have a high cost).
	Self-tapping screws for attaching parts made of soft materials (wood, gypsum plastic, asbestos, and so on) without the use of dowels.
Medium, with herringbone profile	Self-tapping screws for screwing into reinforced concrete or brick objects of buildings by driving into a dowel.
asymmetrical	Self-tapping screws for fastening elements of modern furniture made of wood, chipboard, plywood, etc. (pre-drilling a hole with a diameter of 4.5 or 7 mm, respectively, is required).
Alternating notched	Self-tapping screws for attaching to reinforced concrete or brick parts of buildings without dowels (pins), (screwed into a hole with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 15 mm greater than the immersed part of the self-tapping screw).

It's all about the hat

By the shape of the cap, you can determine the purpose of the self-tapping screw. The relationship between these parameters is shown in the table:

hat type	Features and purpose
secret	After screwing in, the cap is completely recessed into the object to be fixed without a protrusion.
Profile - hemisphere	Strongly holds the attached part due to the increased area of the clamping cap.
Profile - hemisphere with a small press washer	It has a larger area of the working surface of the cap and its underestimated height. It is used when mounting sheet materials.
Small secret	It has a small working area and a gentle transition from the cap to the threaded stem. During installation, it is fixed both in a stationary object and in an attached part. Allows you to apply much more force during the mounting process than in the case of a conventional blind hat.
Profile - a hemisphere with a large press washer	It has a larger working clamping area and a lower head height. Purpose - attachment of sheet parts of low density.
Hexagonal	The head configuration allows you to tighten the screws with less effort, achieving a strong pressing of the fastened objects.
Funnel-like secret with a thickening on the body of the rod	Allows you to mask the connection. Makes it possible to close the hat with a decorative plastic cap. It is screwed in with a specific key (4 mm).

The fact that a lot of effort has been spent on screwing in does not speak of the titanic torments that will have to be experienced if it becomes necessary to unscrew the screw. Therefore, every time the "forever" method is advised, it is worth considering the expediency. Manufacturers offer a variety of self-tapping screws that differ in the metal from which they are made. The cost also varies. In order not to overpay, you need to give an objective assessment of the load that the fastener assembly will be subjected to. If we are talking about a "carnation" for a picture on a wooden wall, it does not make sense to spend money on expensive screws.

The tool for screwing is used both manual and electric. Often a screwdriver is sufficient. This method will not allow you to achieve high labor productivity when it comes to professional work and large volumes of fasteners. For work, the familiar screwdriver is optimal.

Slot - smile :) Unbelievable, but true

The Japanese plant Komuro Seisakusho has released a batch of fasteners with a non-standard slot in the form of a smiley. The author of a funny idea is designer Yuma Kano. Unfortunately, the novelty has not yet been presented on the domestic market.

We hope that now you have once and for all sorted out the issue of the purpose and size of the fasteners. We will be grateful for recommendations, criticism and discovered inaccuracies.

Unlike nails that fasten wooden parts by compressing the nail shaft with wood, screws and self-tapping screws have a screw thread. This very thread does not allow the screw or self-tapping screw to freely exit the body of the wood, and in addition, the thread significantly increases the contact area of the screw or self-tapping screw with the wood. Therefore, even if you drill a hole of the same diameter as a self-tapping screw, then the load-bearing capacity of the screwed-in self-tapping screw will, of course, decrease slightly, but at the same time, the internal stresses in the wood after screwing in the self-tapping screw will decrease much more, which means that it will be much easier to screw the self-tapping screw and the risk of wood splitting , chipboard or other material will decrease significantly.

2.

The process of deformation of wood under the influence of force when twisting a self-tapping screw is very complex. Wood is a heterogeneous material and the strength of wood depends very much on the point of application of the load, the presence of knots, the type of wood, etc. The minimum strength of wood is at the junction of the fibers, therefore, usually the tip of the self-tapping screw falls between the fibers of the wood, and it is almost impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw, as well as to drill a hole in the wood with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter. Fortunately, this is usually not necessary. For domestic purposes, an error of 0.5-1.5 mm is quite normal.

3.

Any screw or self-tapping screw has some volume, and when we screw a screw or self-tapping screw into wood, we thereby try to reduce the volume of wood by the volume of the screw. No miracle happens. Partially, the volume of wood decreases due to the crushing of wood, i.e. due to inelastic deformations. Moreover, the dumber the screw or screw (and self-tapping screws are also blunt), the greater the proportion of inelastic deformations that occur under the tip of the screw, which means that you need to put pressure on the screw or screw to make these deformations. Part of the volume is released by splitting the wood along the fibers, while a gap appears between the fibers, and scientifically speaking, a crack. The width of the crack opening depends not only on the factors listed in paragraph 2, but also on the geometric dimensions of the product and the point of application of the load. The larger the geometrical parameters of the product and the closer the point of screwing the screw to the center of gravity of the section, the smaller the width of the crack opening, which again means that more effort must be applied to tighten the screw or screw in such a place. And the smaller the width and height of the product and the closer the place where the screw is screwed to the edge, the more likely it is that the product will not only crack, but also split, and then it will be very easy to tighten the screw or screw, but there will be no benefit from such a screw or screw, but only one continuous harm. The remaining volume for the screw being screwed in is released due to elastic deformations. The distribution of internal stresses in the body of wood during elastic deformations leads to the appearance of cracks. A similar situation is observed when screwing self-tapping screws into parts made of chipboard or OSB of small sizes, chipboard or oriented strand boards have less strength than wood.

4.a.

Thus, when we drive a screw or self-tapping screw into wood without pre-drilling, we must constantly overcome the tensile strength of the wood under the tip of the screw or screw and on the threads and the ever-increasing friction force arising from the compression of the screw rod by the wood. The friction force increases due to an increase in the contact area of the self-tapping screw or screw with wood. As a result, with sufficiently large diameters of the rods or when screwing into harder types of wood or to a greater depth, no normal screwdriver has enough power to tighten the screw or self-tapping screw to the required depth. And the screwdriver will only chirp loudly, hinting that the tensile strength has been exceeded and rightly so, because screwdriver manufacturers do not like to repair products damaged due to the user's stubbornness for free.

4.b.

However, not all people use a power-adjustable screwdriver, why buy an extra power tool when there is a drill and a screwdriver attachment for self-tapping screws. A drill, unlike screwdrivers, does not have power adjustment, and therefore, when tightening self-tapping screws or screws of large diameter or to a great depth, 4 scenarios are possible:

You will break the splines on the head of a self-tapping screw or screw - a very high probability, especially when twisting at high speeds.
You will ruin the screwdriver bit very quickly. However, if the nozzle for self-tapping screws is Chinese, this can happen even with relatively small loads on the nozzle.
You will break a self-tapping screw that will not withstand the torque - not often, but it happens. The fact is that self-tapping screws, unlike screws, are pre-hardened and therefore more fragile than screws.
You will burn the drill when you tighten a large number of self-tapping screws at low speeds.

I don’t think that you will like at least one of these options, so it’s better to spend extra time drilling holes than spending this time repairing a drill, buying new nozzles, unscrewing a broken self-tapping screw.

4.c.

Despite the victorious march of electricity around the globe, no one has yet canceled the action of brute physical force, and therefore even now it is not uncommon for screws or self-tapping screws to be twisted manually with a screwdriver. Yes, to be honest, I myself do not like to once again go down for an electric tool when I work at a height. When tightening screws or self-tapping screws manually, the scenarios are almost the same as when working with a drill, but you won’t burn the drill, but instead of the nozzle, you will ruin the screwdriver and you can still earn a couple of good corns. But there is a positive side to this - your muscles will develop, and girls love it, just don't tell them exactly how you pumped up your muscles.

4.d.

There is another now little-used way - not to tighten screws or self-tapping screws, but to score. However, this method is more suitable for screws, due to increased fragility, self-tapping screws often break than bend, and only if the screw sticks out 0.3-0.5 cm above the wood surface, then you can try to finish it off. We are not talking about special screws driven into dowels here.

In Soviet times, there were other recommendations for tightening screws (there was a lot of cheap electricity then, but for some reason there were few available power tools), for example, it was proposed to first tighten the first screw until the slots were licked, then unscrew and discard the first screw and screw the second one in its place , and if the slots on the second one also stick together, then unscrew the second screw and screw the third one in its place. Another option was more gentle, it was proposed to lubricate the screw with soap before tightening to reduce the friction force of the screw shaft on the wood. Now such methods of screwing in a screw seem exotic, nevertheless, the choice of the method is up to you.

Under self-tapping screws for metal, it is also sometimes necessary to drill holes if the self-tapping screws are blunt. Especially often this has to be done when assembling a metal frame for drywall, plastic panels or MDF panels. The fact is that blunt self-tapping screws do not cut through the tin of the frame, but push through and, accordingly, the contact area of \u200b\u200bthe self-tapping screw increases even more and you need to put pressure on such a self-tapping screw very strongly. In this case, drilling holes will not only facilitate and speed up the assembly of the frame, but also help to avoid unnecessary injuries, because it is very easy to damage the hand of a nozzle that has come off the self-tapping screw.