Iron drawing. A simple metal bed with your own hands. Door leaf manufacturing

Any fence, after a while, becomes unusable or needs current, or maybe major repairs. But, as practice shows, a fence correctly installed from high-quality material will serve its owners much longer than those on which the owner decided to save.

For example, the service life of some metal fences can reach 60 years, however, with proper care. Here we will talk about simple, but durable structures.

Fencing base

Not a single fence can do without supporting elements, and the more stable they are installed, the more reliable the structure will be. Even a front garden fence will look more respectable if it is equipped with support posts, and the service life of such a fence is much longer.

Metal fences are often installed on supports made of the same material. Massive, monumental fences for a private house are installed on strip or column foundations, and less heavy structures for a summer house or a front garden around the house can be built without a fundamental foundation.

Pillars are fixed in several ways:

1. For driven supports, shallow holes are dug or drilled. Their diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the supports themselves. Then the supports are inserted into the holes and clogged. This procedure is best done together, so that one person holds the support in a strict vertical position. After filling the void, the pits are filled with rubble or covered with earth and carefully compacted.
2. Combined installation is carried out by drilling holes with a diameter twice the diameter of the pillars to half the depth of immersion. The support is inserted into the hole, hammered to the desired depth, secured with spacers. Hole voids are filled with concrete in several steps, each of which is accompanied by a rammer.
3. Zabutovka differs in that the bottom of the hole for the support is filled with construction debris (small stones or broken bricks), rubble. After installing the pillar, the hole is filled to the top with rubble, carefully compacted, and poured with concrete mixture from above.
4. Full concreting is carried out by digging holes for the pillars to the desired depth, installing and reinforcing the supports, and pouring the concrete mixture. To make the support more stable, the bottom of the pit is slightly expanded to the bottom, covered with sand or gravel by 10 cm, the support is installed, reinforced and poured with concrete.

The depth of the holes for the supporting elements depends on many factors, such as the complexity of the soil, the occurrence of groundwater, the unevenness of the terrain, and the severity of the fence spans, but from 80 cm to 1.5 m is considered optimal.

Simple metal fences of light weight do not require volumetric supports; for them, it is enough to purchase pipes with a diameter of 80 * 80 mm. It is better to purchase metal pipes manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST, so you can extend their service life. These products are made of high quality metal and treated with anti-corrosion agents.

The height of the pipe is calculated depending on the height of the fence plus the recessed part. Most often, pipes with a length of 3 - 3.5 m are used.

Cheap and high quality

Such a building material as chain-link mesh is one of the simplest for fencing areas of any shape, length and height. It has found its application for fencing summer cottages and a plot of a private house, in the form of a fence for a front garden and for fencing industrial areas. It is one of those metal materials that is easy to deform, in a good way.

For example, for a figured front garden, you will not find a material that is easier to install. Well, if it is necessary to protect the site of the house or cottage, then a properly installed high-quality chain-link mesh will last for more than a dozen years. And the most attractive thing is that you don’t need special skills to install metal mesh fences. It is enough to prepare drawings and calculate the amount of material.

And if we already talk about the service life, then the design created by the sectional method will be more reliable. To do this, you will need to make separately the required number of sections, and then mount them on pre-installed poles.

If there is a desire to get a more aesthetic view of the fence for a private house or cottage, then you can purchase ready-made sections with poles, manufactured in accordance with GOST. Industrial products are mainly covered with protective agents, which can significantly increase their service life.

Simple welded construction

More expensive designs include metal fences made of welded mesh. Due to the fact that in the manufacture of sections of such structures in production, the material is galvanized and coated with a polymer composition. For manufacturing, a high-quality metal bar is used that complies with GOST, which ensures a long service life for the fences.

For the installation of such structures, welding equipment is not required; you can get by with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.

A metal fence in the form of a welded mesh is installed in several stages:

• the site is marked around the house or in front of the cottage;
• marking posts are installed along the edges;
• the rope is pulled at the intended height of the fence;
• 2.5 m is measured from the outermost pillar, and this is repeated the required number of times;
• in the marked places, supporting elements are installed by any of the above methods;
• if finished products manufactured in accordance with GOST are used to fence a summer house or house, then a diagram is attached to the design, with the sequence of mounting sections;
• everything else is assembled as a designer, adhering to the drawing.

The manufacturer provides connecting brackets with holes. They are fixed with a screwdriver on the supports, and sections of welded mesh are already attached to them. You can learn more about the installation of a simple design from the video.

Popular corrugated board

No less easy to install is a metal fence made of corrugated board. Its installation principle is practically the same as the two previous designs. To facilitate installation, the distance between the supporting elements must be made to the width of the profiled sheet.

If it is supposed to leave the posts open, then the distance from the end of the post is calculated, and if the supports need to be closed with a sheet, then the distance should be measured from the middle of the support.

For fences in the country or for the front garden, cheaper profiled sheet models are more often used, for example, only galvanized sheet. If it is necessary to protect the site of a private house, then it is better to use better products that meet the requirements of GOST. Such metal material has a longer service life and does not require annual maintenance.

In order not to be mistaken in the calculations of the material, and to purchase exactly as much as required, it is necessary to prepare drawings in advance, which will indicate all the dimensions of the fence elements.

Fence for a garden plot

Not every owner is ready to pay a tidy sum for metal fences in the garden plot, made by the manufacturer in accordance with GOST. In order to save money, many are trying to build protective structures from cheaper material.

If you have a welding machine at hand, then a simple fence made of fittings or a profile pipe will perfectly fit into the design of a garden plot, a private house or a summer house, it is important to prepare drawings. And its unattractive appearance can be decorated with climbing plants or painted. Many craftsmen even enclose the front garden with such a simple design.

We will assume that the pillars have already been installed, it remains only to fill the spans. To do this, you need to decide on the width of the spans and the height of the fence. It is better, of course, to draw up a diagram in order to correctly calculate the material.

The transverse logs are immediately welded to the posts. The bottom crossbar should be 20 cm from the ground, and the top one should be the same distance from the top of the support. Further, the places of welding of vertical elements are marked, according to the design drawing.

Such fences from a metal rod for a summer residence or from fittings for a front garden are installed in place. Pipe cutting is carried out in stages, for each span separately. This method allows the welding equipment heated during the welding of the parts of the first span to cool down. While the material is cut for the next filling, the device has time to cool down, and the work is carried out almost continuously.

For the front garden, as a rule, used material is used. It is not necessary to purchase rods or fittings of an expensive series manufactured in accordance with GOST and make drawings. Even a rusty rod can be thoroughly cleaned and used to fence small areas. And the shape and configuration of the fence depends on the imagination of the manufacturer.

Manufacture and installation of high-quality turnkey fences with and without PICS
Professional approach to the construction of combined concrete-metal fences

Absolutely any owner of a cottage or a country house is faced with the need to equip a canopy for his iron friend. This circumstance is primarily due to the versatility of the design, since it can be used not only for a car, but also for storing garden supplies and small technical devices. In addition to this, this building becomes more relevant when it is necessary to park a vehicle for a small amount of time. In the article we will tell you how to make a metal carport with your own hands for a car, we will provide step-by-step instructions, photos and videos.

Before performing construction work, you should determine the future location of the canopy, its style, determine the purpose and type of the structure being built. In addition, it is worth making a choice between a stationary and mobile view.

The advantages of a stationary building are practicality and durability, and a mobile building is mobility. However, a movable canopy requires the manufacture of a strong frame, so it is built in rare cases when it is necessary to temporarily protect the car from precipitation, direct sunlight and dust.

According to the type of placement, canopies are free-standing and made as an extension. Attached structures form a single structure with a nearby building and are often united by a common roof.

The roof of a free-standing canopy can be domed, arc, arched, single-pitched and gable.

Ordinary metal or profile pipes, brick and wood can be used as support pillars. At the same time, roofing materials also abound in variety: corrugated board, natural tiles, polycarbonate, metal tiles, etc.

The type of canopy and material determine the complexity and duration of the installation of the structure. As a rule, for a simpler and more economical assembly, a metal profile and corrugated board are used. The thickness of the pillars and ceilings is selected depending on the size of the structure and the expected load.

To successfully complete the task, it is necessary to draw up an approximate sketch of the future canopy, prepare a tool, purchase consumables and accessories. Required tools:

• building level and tape measure;
• grinder or saw for cutting metal;
• drill with a puncher and a set of drills and bits;
• riveter;
• metal screws or rivets.

A complete and objective assessment of the amount of consumables, as well as the required volume of fasteners, depends on the clear drawing up of the drawing, therefore, special attention should be paid to the preparation of the named document. In addition, do not forget about safety precautions when working with metal products.

Before starting work, it is worth preparing the site for the structure. To do this, according to the sketch drawn up, we level and tamp the ground at the site of the proposed construction. Then, along the perimeter, we dig holes for support pillars with a depth of 50 to 100 cm. The recesses are equipped in such a way that a rectangle is obtained, as a rule, in two rows of 2–3 holes.

The metal profile should be cut according to the number of support pillars, their length should be 3 m. Depending on the type of construction you choose, the method of attaching the racks is determined. During the construction of a stationary canopy, the supports are installed according to the level and concreted, and when erecting its mobile counterpart, additional cutting of metal pipes with a diameter slightly larger than that of the support pipe and a length equal to the depth of the foundation is required. Prepared metal pieces are mounted in pits and filled with cement mortar. Then a profile is inserted into each of the pipe cuts. Holes are drilled in the pipe and the profile and the entire support is tightened with bolts.

To add rigidity and prevent premature failure, the described protective “casings” can also be used when arranging a stationary structure. The only difference from mobile canopies will be that the profile must be welded to a metal pipe.

Roofs are solid and collapsible. Their primary difference lies in the method of fastening the elements to each other: in the first case, the components are welded, and in the second, they are bolted together. In addition, the designs are single-sided and double-sided.

Using the example of a non-separable gable roof, consider the technology of its installation. Pieces of a metal profile will need to be welded to the supporting pillars, so that a regular rectangular frame is obtained. Then, we start welding the rafters. On the ground, to the beam on one side and on the other, we weld pieces of a metal profile in increments of 1 m at an angle of no more than 30º. It is important to consider that the resulting structure should protrude somewhat beyond the welded upper frame. Next, we place the welded elements on the reference rectangle, and weld at the joints.

To simplify the procedure for constructing a frame for the roof, it is necessary to strengthen the metal rectangular base, located on the supports, with transverse beams in the center of each side. Then, to the central safety beam, we weld 20–30 cm pieces of a profile pipe, which will act as a support for the future ridge. Next, we fasten the extended segments with pipes from the profile to each other and to a rectangular base.

Having finished with the installation of the frame, we proceed to the sheathing with corrugated board. The sheets are fastened directly to the prepared frame on the rafters overlapping each other by means of rivets, self-tapping screws or bolts.

When making a carport yourself, it is important to follow the instructions and observe the dimensions of the constituent elements reflected in the prepared drawings based on accurate calculations. All these conditions, combined with the right approach and due diligence, will allow you to build a quality metal canopy.

Video

This video tells more about the intricacies of manufacturing a metal canopy:

A photo

In the photographs you can see various options for arranging a metal canopy:

Scheme

If you decide to make a metal canopy, then the diagrams provided can help you in making a design suitable for you:

Drawings of metal structures are combined into a set of drawings of the KM brand - metal structures. The composition of the drawings of this brand includes:

General data - title page;

Drawings of views, plans, sections;

Schemes of arrangement of structural elements;

Node drawings.

The general data on metal structures include various statements and specifications necessary for completing documents and products, as well as the installation of metal structures.

The layouts of structural elements are performed on a scale of 1:100, 1:200, 1:400. The diagrams show the location of individual structural elements, indicate their brands. If the dimensions of the longitudinal structural elements significantly exceed the dimensions of the transverse elements, then the latter are drawn on a larger scale.

Working drawings of the KM brand must contain complete data for the development of detailed drawings of KMD, budgeting and ordering metal.

KMD drawings are developed, as a rule, in the design departments of steel structures plants and contain all the necessary data for the manufacture and installation of structures.

Drawings of metal structures are performed in accordance with the requirements of GOST 2.410-68 of the ESKD standards “General rules for the execution of drawings”, as well as the State Standard of the Republic of Belarus “Metal structures. Rules for the execution of drawings of the KM brand. And GOST 21.101-93 "Basic requirements for working drawings".

One of the features of the execution of drawings of metal building products (structural elements) is the arrangement of views:

a top view in a projection relationship above the main view;

bottom view - under the main view;

right view - to the right of the main view;

left view - to the left of the main view.

In this case, each view (except the main one) must be marked on the drawing with a capital letter. The direction of view is indicated by an arrow marked with the corresponding letter (Fig. 5.1).

Rice. 5.1. Location of views on construction drawings

In the drawings of metal structures, in views and sections, all visible parts of the structures and their connections are depicted, located on the edge nearest in the direction of view. Of the invisible parts, only those that are located close to the visible ones are shown (Fig. 5.1).

If necessary, on the drawing of a metal structure, its geometric diagram is drawn with solid main lines (Fig. 5.2).

Rice. 5.2. The geometric scheme of the farm

For symmetrical structures, draw a diagram of half of the structure. The dimensions of the distances between the points of intersection of the axial lines of the rods are applied above the lines of the scheme without extension and dimension lines (Fig. 5.3).

Rice. 5.3. Geometric scheme of half of the structure

In addition to dimensions, if necessary, design forces are applied to the geometric diagram with the corresponding signs.

If the simultaneous application of dimensions and forces in diagrams of symmetrical structures makes it difficult to read the diagram, then it is drawn in full, while the dimensions are applied on one half of the diagram, and the forces on the other (Fig. 5.4).

Rice. 5.4. Geometric design scheme

The choice of the outline of trusses is the first stage of their design. The outline of the trusses depends on the purpose of the armaments, the type of roof, on the type of connection of the trusses with columns (hinged or rigid) and other features of the design situation.

The outlines of some types of farms are shown in fig. 5.5.

Rice. 5.5. Truss outlines: a) trapezoidal;

b) polygonal; c) triangular; d) with parallel belts

Separate elements of metal structures are interconnected by welding, rivets or bolts.

Conditional images and designations of seams of welded joints are performed in accordance with GOST 2.312-72. ESKD. This GOST is used when performing engineering drawings, drawings of the KZh brand.

On the drawings of building metal structures, conditional images of welded joints are used in accordance with GOST 21.504-2005 “Project documentation system for construction. Metal structures. Rules for the execution of drawings of the KM brand ”, which was introduced in connection with the abolition of SN 460-74 on the territory of the Republic of Belarus (Table 5.1). In accordance with this GOST, the designations of the seams are placed directly above or below the image of the corresponding weld, regardless of whether the seam is visible or invisible (Fig. 5.6).

For example, the inscription 6-80 given above the image means: the seam has a length of 80 mm with a leg of 6 mm.

Metal structures are used in all types of buildings and engineering structures.

Rice. 5.6. Designation and placement

weld dimensions

The necessary material for all structures are: rolled steel (angle, I-beam, channel), sheet steel, steel pipes. On fig. 5.7 shows the most common rolled steel profiles.

Table 5.1.

Rice. 5.7. Profiles of rolled steel: a) equal angle;

b) the corner is unequal; c) tee profile; d) I-beam;

e) channel; f) Z-profile

Elements Defined by Values b and h , are called, respectively, a shelf and a profile wall. On fig. 5.8 gives the names of the elements of the corner profile, Z0 - distance from the butt to the center of gravity of the corner.

Rice. 5.8 Corner profile elements

Aroused great interest among radio amateurs. And this is not surprising, because in terms of technical characteristics, that metal detector was not inferior to many industrial devices of an average price level, and in terms of ease of assembly and configuration, it surpassed them.

For several months, the metal detector scheme was repeated many times by many radio amateurs, even not very experienced ones, and almost always the most positive reviews about it were left on the forum. In some cases, of course, there were problems with the settings, which caused a lot of questions and long discussions at the conference, so it was decided to systematize all the information on this metal detector and post it here along with the updated circuit.

The principal is in the archive as a file sPlan. As can be seen from the diagram, the input stage on the LM358 underwent some changes, it became possible to change the phase of the signal with the button, an LED indicator for the response from the target in the ground was added, which allows you to visually determine the iron - non-ferrous metal, and one transistor was added to the ULF. Now you can safely put a regular small-sized 8-ohm speaker there. It is it that is recommended to be used for sound emission, since the headphones will interfere with wading through the bushes, and the ZP-shka is too quiet to search for noisy rivers and seas on the shore.

Each body of a metal detector is made from what is at hand. The main thing is that it be strong enough, waterproof and preferably made of metal. Additional shielding will not be superfluous at all, because very sensitive op amps are installed in the metal detector. There are two tulips on the back for connecting search coils with a high-quality shielded wire.

The power supply of the metal detector is 12V, but it is quite acceptable to reduce it to 8. When choosing a power source, keep in mind that you will have to walk with it in nature all day, so the battery should last 10 hours. two old lithium-ion batteries from a mobile phone. The current consumption of the metal detector is about 50mA, so in some cases you can put a 9-volt crown, but this power supply is enough for 2 hours of work, no more.

To charge the batteries, a socket is brought out, to which power is supplied from the charger or, in the simplest case, from the PSU through a resistor. Be sure to set the volume control, because sometimes you have to search in secrecy (behind enemy lines), focusing only on the LEDs. On the other side of the front panel is the Trash control - the threshold. With its help, the moment is set when the metal detector stops beeping by itself, and the sound appears only if there is metal within the visibility of the search coil.

A lot has been written about the manufacture of a metal detector coil, I will add only some fresh information. We start by making a template for winding.

Any suitable material (fiberboard, plywood, plexiglass, plastic, etc.) is made from 5 mm plywood. We process the edges of the finished template and glue it with adhesive tape so that the template does not stick to the coil. We clamp the finished template with the axis in a vise and wind 80 turns of wire on it, impregnating every 20 turns with zaponlak. You can impregnate with epoxy at your own peril and risk, in many forums they write that there are batches of resin with different electrical conductivity, which affects the parameters of the coil not for the better. After drying, we disassemble the template, remove the coil and ""tighten"" its ""waist"" with fum tape. I consider the use of electrical tape inappropriate, since the electrical tape has a sticky side and can shift the turns - zaponlak is not epoxy.

Next, we shield with foil (I use foil on lavsan extracted from an RG-6U antenna cable, a piece 2 meters long is enough for 2 coils), then we wrap it with tinned wire, and on top with electrical tape or fum tape. As a result, we get coils that are absolutely identical in terms of parameters, geometry and quality factor, which is important for a balanced metal detector, since balancers are very critical to coil geometry. Then we set the coils to resonance and start to reduce to ""0"". It should be remembered that for this model, reduction to absolute "0" is undesirable - discrimination will disappear, so an imbalance of 0.2-0.6 millivolts is enough, although the detection depth will decrease by a couple of centimeters. Having brought the coils together, we fix them together with cyanoacrylate and threads, and dry them. Now let's start manufacturing the sensor housing.

The most optimal and cheapest, in my opinion, is a sensor made from ceiling tiles. We make a template, cut the blanks and glue the body. I do not advise you to make the cheeks of the reel seat from plexiglass - it is very fragile, it is better to use fiberglass, and even better - plastic liners that the railway workers put under the rail on the sleeper (just don't derail the train). As a result, we have quite decent, light and cheap to manufacture, metal detector search sensors.

As carrier tubes, you can use a telescopic paint rod, cut to the desired size. A sliding handle from a Chinese mop, or a Chinese three-knee landing net for fishing, will also go.

A lot has been said about setting up the contours. Let's give the floor to the guests of the forum: I included the search coil for transmission as a serial oscillatory circuit, and for reception as a parallel oscillatory circuit. I set up the transmitting coil first, connected the assembled sensor structure to the metal detector, the oscilloscope parallel to the coil and selected the capacitors according to the maximum amplitude. After that, I connected the oscilloscope to the receiving coil and picked up the capacitors on the RX according to the maximum amplitude. Setting the circuits to resonance takes, with an oscilloscope, several minutes. Further reduction to zero. It is easier to solder a switchman (a sensitive voltmeter) to the output of the 1st stage and, having overlapped the coils by about 1 cm, shift and move apart. And the arrow will point to the zero point. It can be quite accurate and it is not easy to catch it right away. But she is. If it still doesn't work, try flipping one of the coils.

The metal detector circuit can and should be checked first without coils. To do this, mentally divide it into blocks that we configure and run separately:

Bipolar voltage driver on U6A - makes from 12V + -6V.
Quartz frequency generator on 561LA7 - creates 32768Hz.
Frequency divider by 561TM2 - divides 32768Hz by 4, we get 8192Hz at pins 1,2,12,13.
Speaker tone generator on U6B - generates a beep on pin 4.
Controlled audio amplifier on Q5, Q6, Q7 - amplifies the sound of the U6B generator if there is a response signal from U2B.
Target response signal amplifiers U1B, U2A, U2B - a small response voltage is accelerated to several volts, which allows you to light up the LED and turn on the amplifier.

Of course, not all possible questions are considered here, so check the forum for additional information on setting up a metal detector. And it remains for me to separately thank Elektrodych for a good description of the coil design, slavake for the new scheme drawn, and all the other forum participants for their interest in the metal detector.

Discuss the article METAL DETECTOR SCHEME

Used virtually everywhere. They are installed not only in apartments of multi-storey buildings, but also in private households, baths, and various outbuildings. In addition to purchased ready-made options, some people prefer to create a home-made design, in which a drawing of a metal door will be a good help.

It is far from always possible to purchase a steel door leaf and a door block of good quality. The first problem is the pricing policy of the modern construction market. The second problem is that sometimes the doorway is very specific and the doors for it are made only on an individual order.

There is a simple way out of this situation. If there are practically no suitable products on sale, you can always make them yourself. The metal door has a simple design, which is quite possible to make with your own hands. To do this, there are various drawings and much more. A home-made design will have the required level of quality, and the amount spent on materials will not be very high. All work on the manufacture of entrance doors is divided into several simple steps.

Necessary materials, tool

The most expensive thing you need is metal. All other components and materials will not cost too much, of course, excluding decorative finishes. If you roughly estimate the amount for all expenses, then you need no more than 100-150 dollars. For this price, it is impossible to purchase even dubious Chinese products.

As for the materials necessary for the work, there are not many of them. You need to purchase a profile pipe - suitable with a cross section of 20 × 40 mm. The pipe should be purchased in the amount of 20 linear meters - this volume is quite enough for the production of a block of standard sizes (this is about 1 m wide and 2 m long). The amount of material for other dimensions is not difficult to calculate. In case of any incomprehensible situations, it is worth looking at the sketch - today you can find a lot of drawings of metal doors and use them for assembly.

Sheet metal is also required. Its thickness must be at least 2.5 mm. Overall dimensions - according to the size of the future door, or rather the opening.

You should also prepare the hinges, it is worth choosing models that are equipped with a bearing. These accessories are purchased in quantities of three. The canvas will be quite heavy, so three loops is the most reliable option.

In addition, accessories, thermal insulation, as well as materials for decorative finishing are additionally needed. Do not forget about consumables - these are circles for power tools, welding electrodes, drills, consumables for a jigsaw.

Of the tools, it is worth preparing a welding machine, a welding table, a grinder, an electric drill, a jigsaw.

Preparation and measurements

So, in most apartments it is 2000 × 800 or 2000 × 900 mm. If the existing opening is smaller or larger, then you can make a canvas for a special size. When taking measurements, it is worth making sure that it is the wall that is being measured, and not concrete or plaster.

In the event that the height of the box is slightly more than 2000 mm, then it is necessary to provide an additional frame on top, or in the side of the opening, if its width is more than 900 mm. In addition, you should remember about a gap of several tens of millimeters on each side of the box. This gap is necessary for blowing seams.

If the width of the opening is more than 1500 mm, then experts recommend making not a solid (monolithic), but a collapsible box. In cottages, in addition to the door leaf, two or more modules with glass are installed in wide openings, which make the structure more reliable and durable and perform a decorative function.

Click to open in full size.

In the process of preparation, it is also worth starting to develop a drawing of a metal door. If the door leaf is unique and exclusive, then the drawing is done by hand. If the opening is standard, and the door structure will be a standard solution, then standard drawings can also be used.

Making a classic metal door

Classic steel doors are a structure made of leaf, frame, door hinges, as well as mounting plates.

Assembling the door frame

So, the first step is to assemble a box or block. To do this, according to the parameters obtained during the measurements, a prepared profile pipe is cut. Cutting is performed at an angle of 45 degrees. Cutting accuracy can be checked by joining two pieces, and then checking the resulting structure with a corner.

There is another way to produce a box. In this version, the frame is assembled from a metal profile by welding. The result should be a rectangular structure. During the assembly process, it is very important to control the accuracy of the corners, as well as measure the diagonals - this is done to eliminate the risk of block distortions.

Assembly of the door frame

At this step, blanks are made for the future frame. For these purposes, a metal corner is suitable. It is necessary to maintain a gap between the door frame and the frame on the side of the lock - it is approximately 5 mm. On the other sides, it will be enough if the gap is 3 mm. These are not exact numbers - in various drawings of metal doors, this size may be slightly different. To make it clearer, strips of metal of the required thickness are used to measure and control these gaps.

Next - the profile is marked and cut. It is put inside the resulting box. Then check the geometric characteristics of the structure along the diagonals. If everything is correct, then a groove or slot is made on one side of the profile for mounting the lock. After that, the corners of the frame can be tacked by welding, the frames along the perimeter are also tacked at several points.

At this step, it is already possible to weld metal strips to the door frame, which will act as clamps for finishing materials.

Door leaf manufacturing

The creation of the canvas should begin with markup. It is necessary to take into account the tolerances and overlaps of sheet metal on the door frame of 10-15 cm. The overlap from the side of the hinges is also taken into account. In various drawings of metal doors, it is 5 mm.

The steel sheet according to the drawings and dimensions is cut with a grinder and welded to the finished frame. Stiffeners are welded inside the web. They must be installed horizontally. If the level of rigidity is insufficient, then their number can be increased.

Lock installation

The door is almost finished. To install the lock, markup is performed directly on the canvas. You can mark the places for the holes with a regular marker. Then, according to the marks, a hole is drilled, which then needs to be processed with a file. Next - holes are made for the fasteners of the future lock. Threads are cut in the holes, then the locking device is fixed with bolts. At the end, install the handle.

This is a typical instruction that is suitable for most locks, but lock designs may vary, the installation itself depends on the product.

loops

Before welding these elements to the resulting structure - the doors and the block, they must be lubricated. With the help of a grinder, the places where the frame and the door block are connected are cut - these are the points that were previously tacked by the welding machine. Loops are fixed from the inside.

fasteners

To fasten the resulting structure into the opening, strips of metal are used. They need from 6 to 10 pieces. They are simply welded to the box. Then they will need to drill holes for the anchor bolts.

Warming and finishing

The door is almost ready. Now it remains only to insulate it. The thermal insulation option you have chosen is cut and laid inside the canvas. Lay the insulation between the stiffeners.

After that, you can start decorating the inside of the door. For these purposes, plywood, laminated panels, as well as any other material are suitable.

Metal door with glazing and decorative elements

Often, such models of doors are installed in private houses or in cottages. The window performs several functions - through it you can see who came. Also, thanks to the glass in the hallway will be much lighter. Decorative elements will decorate the canvas and give it an exclusive look.

The window in the door must be made even when cutting sheet steel. During its manufacture, you can draw a metal door, located at the beginning of our article. Reinforcement must be welded along the perimeter of a rectangular or any other shape of a hole in a steel sheet. Dimensions should be determined in advance. All other stages of work are similar to the manufacturing technology of a classic door.

After the structure is painted, a double-glazed window is installed in the place intended for the window. In order for the glass to be as reliable as possible, a forged decorative grille is often welded on the outside.

You can also equip the door block with various additional accessories. It can be closers, seals, eyes and much more. The main rule is that the accessories must be of high quality. Only then will it last for a long period of time.

Homemade door in comparison with the factory

The first minus is the rationality of this decision. The cost of materials and accessories is a considerable amount, while the simplest factory door will cost 30% more, and you will save a lot of time and effort. In addition, your skills as a welder are important. If you are not qualified enough, there is a risk of marriage being allowed. In any case, factory welding will be much better.

But generally speaking, a homemade metal door is not a utopia, but a real reality for those who have welding skills and experience with power tools.