How to cut branches on trees. Do-it-yourself pruning and shaping of fruit trees. Berry bushes - how to prune

Planting a garden is only the first step to harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, pruning of fruit trees is needed. Do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

O when cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will quickly recover.

You will need:

garden knife;
hacksaw.

Branches are recommended to be cut with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they strongly compress the wood, and then the wound heals longer. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in spring, is it possible after the start of sap flow? It all depends on the state of your garden. The trunk split, branches broke under the weight of snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing of the kind, then it is not worth injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Pruning fruit trees is an important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, you should remove the shoots:

which depart from the trunk at an acute angle;
directed to the center of the crown;
which do not bear fruit (top).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

Pruning should begin immediately, as soon as the big frosts subsided (most often this is the end of January, the beginning of March). Thus, the wounds will not freeze, and when the sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They must be lubricated with garden pitch.
You need to cut the shoots above the eyes that grow outward from the crown. Carry out the cut from the inside out.
The branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the rest.
On weak trees, short pruning is done. Cut off over the second or third eyes.
With strong growth, medium pruning is done. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
For vigorous trees, a long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

crown formation

Forming the crown of a young tree can begin in the second year of its life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple trees, pears appear on perennial shoots, and plums, cherries bear fruit the next year after planting. Knowing this, spring pruning of fruit trees can be done without much damage to the future crop. Untiered and sparse-tiered crown formation systems are widespread. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is a trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

And so, how to properly prune fruit trees in spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

The conductor is the central shoot, cut off at about 80 cm from the base. The main thing: up to a dozen buds should remain on the conductor. From them will go new shoots, side branches. This is the first tier.
Next year, remove the branches damaged during the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
Therefore, according to the principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
The tree has reached four meters in height (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth, completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees should be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as needed, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

Pruning fruit trees in the spring, the timing of its implementation is the end of winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricot, cherry, peach, cherry plum. In summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary crown density.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - shaping pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; g - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); e - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already fruitful. But he, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Delete a branch in whole or in part. Partial removal will contribute to the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is at rest, until sap flow has begun.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - branches grow upwards), the growing branches must be lowered down: those that are directed downwards are left, and those that are upwards are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove those directed downwards.

To rejuvenate the tree, you will need to cut the upper part of the trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, remove the old, going inside the crown, branches that are intertwined. A very dense crown, so as not to greatly injure the plant, should not be thinned out overnight, stretch the operation for two to three years.

Pear, cherry, apple pruning schemes

Pruning fruit trees in spring scheme for pears:

In winter, branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or cut.
Pruning too much will weaken the tree and fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do a moderate pruning.
It is useful to shorten annual branches slightly. It will only make them stronger.

For cherries, cherries:

In young trees, five to seven strong branches are left, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
All weak branches are removed.
The conductor should be longer than the rest by 20 centimeters.
Cherries and sweet cherries are pruned only in spring.

For apple trees:

Before you start pruning, you need to clean the trunk, the main branches of the shoots.
Rejuvenate an old plant, increase productivity by removing a third of branches and shoots - the main thing is not to overdo it.
It needs to be pruned over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut off at the very trunk.
A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown "ring".
When removing thick branches, first make an inscription from below, and then from above. Thus, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
The shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with a var.
With pruning of frozen trees, it is better to wait until next spring.
Filling hollows, drilling drainage holes is impossible.
If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not put props. It is better to cut off part of the fruit. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly cut the plant and not damage it by watching the video at the end of the article.

When pruning, the pruner should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
If you want to form a lush crown of a young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
There should be only one conductor. There are competitors - liquidate.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters, and the branches up to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

The best time for tree pruning- late winter and early spring before new growth begins - this is a favorable period for pruning most garden plants including fruit trees, berry and ornamental rose bushes. Here are some tips to help you prune your trees the right way.

Successful pruning helps maintain plant health, strength and beauty, and in fruit crops, increases productivity and improves crop quality. Whatever you cut, use only sharp, clean tools. Do not cut damp plants, cut below visible signs of disease, and treat the cut site as quickly as possible.

PRUNING FRUIT TREES

A few years ago, our neighbors planted fruit trees. At first, they rejoiced at the large, juicy fruits that appeared on young trees every autumn. But as the trees aged, the fruits became smaller, they were no longer so beautiful and tasty. The neighbors decided that the weather and unsuitable varieties were to blame. In fact, the problem was that they never pruned their trees.

Pruning keeps the trees in good condition and significantly increases the yield. By cutting out some of the branches of a mature, fruit-bearing tree, you reduce the amount of fruit produced on it and provide better illumination inside the crown. The remaining fruits grow better (and the yield from this tree in terms of kg will also be greater), have a more attractive appearance. The increase in air circulation and the sun's rays penetrating the crown prevent the development of diseases.

Pruning should be done in the spring, before the movement of juice in the plant begins, while the tree is still sleeping, but the wood is not frozen.

In young trees, with the help of light pruning, they usually form a crown of one of three types - longline with a central conductor (leader), modified - leader and cup-shaped.

When the tree begins to bear fruit, you will need to do more pruning, cut and shorten the branches. This measure will increase the yield of the tree and create a crown structure that can withstand a larger crop. Here are some pruning tips.

Do a pruning every year. Removing a few branches every year is less painful for your tree than heavy pruning every 2-3 years. As a rule, you can cut a number of branches from the crown, approximately equal to last year's growth, (but not more than 1/3 of all branches of the tree), you may find it necessary to remove new branches, but, first of all, try to cut out the old ones.

Do not heavily prune dwarf trees. Bonsai trees grow more slowly than normal trees, so their yearly pruning doesn't have to be as heavy.

Cut branches correctly. Cut the branch obliquely above the bud located on the outside of the branch. Pruning at an angle allows water to drain quickly from the cut, and pruning over an externally located bud promotes the formation of a shoot that does not thicken the crown.

Cut out old shoots. In some varieties of apple, pear and plum trees, fruits are formed not on the largest branches, but on small branches extending from them. With a large thickening of the crown, cut out the oldest and least productive branches.

Keep and support the growth of branches in a horizontal direction. Upward branches give a strong increase, but their yield is lower than that of horizontal ones. Downward and hanging branches are the least productive, and the fruits on them receive less light. Support branch growth in a horizontal direction by cutting straight up or down shoots.

Pruning apple and pear

Pruning your young apple and pear trees so that the tree retains the central trunk (guide, main shoot) and branches away from it at a large angle.

As the tree ages, the guide may bend under the weight of the fruit and shade the branches below. If this happens to your tree, cut out the top of the main shoot. With this pruning, the illumination inside the crown will improve, and several new branches will begin to grow upwards to replace the removed leader shoot. If necessary, prune the upper parts of the lateral branches annually so that any part of the tree can be reached.

Plum

Plum trees have a bushy shape, so it is almost impossible to form a leader shoot tree from them. Do not try to remake nature, form a bowl-shaped crown in plum trees.

Japanese-American hybrids have stronger growth than European plums and should be pruned harder. As the tree ages, trim branches that are too close together and remove a small portion of the old branches each year. Keep the top of the crown open to create good light conditions for the lower branches. Cut branches that are too long and hanging to the ground.

peach, apricot pruning

These fruit trees are so strong growing that they require heavy pruning to produce good quality fruit annually. To obtain low trees that are easy to work with, it is recommended to cut the top of the crown. Also remove branches that grow close to the ground. Don't overfeed stone fruit crops after pruning, otherwise they will replace pruned branches with rapid growth. With excessive growth during the summer, these trees are more likely to be damaged in winter. Some gardeners prefer to prune peaches at the time of flowering to prevent cancer, which is mainly spread in cold weather.

Making cherry pruning

Young cherry trees form a tiered crown with a central conductor. Then, as the plants age, the leader shoot is cut out and a modified leader crown is obtained. Pruning cherries is done in the same way as peaches, but not as much. Excessive pruning of cherries can cause frost damage to the trees and shorten the life span of the cherry tree.

THREE TYPES OF CUTTING

1. Thinning.

Remove the entire branch by cutting it where it branches off a larger branch or trunk. Used infrequently as thinning does not encourage regrowth and reduces plant weight without affecting plant size. After thinning, the bush does not look so massive.

2. Non-selective cropping

Cut the branch at any point. Such pruning stimulates the growth of top shoots from dormant buds under the pruning site. Non-selective pruning makes the plants thicker and bushier, but does not reduce the size of the bush.
3. Selective (selective) cropping.
Cut the branch to a bud or to a side branch. Usually the diameter of the remaining lateral branch should be half the diameter of the removed shoot. Twigs with a diameter of 3 mm or less are cut into buds. This method of pruning allows you to reduce the height of the bush while maintaining its natural shape. Some shrubs tolerate strong selective pruning, others do not.

How to properly prune berry bushes.

BERRY SHRUBS - HOW TO CUT

Annual pruning of berry bushes allows you to keep the plants in a productive, healthy state and in good shape. Removing several old branches allows young, productive shoots to grow and creates better conditions for light to penetrate inside the bush (and this, in turn, leads to sweeter fruits due to improved photosynthesis) and air (reduces humidity, prevents the development of fungal diseases) . Do not regret those flower buds that you remove along with the shoots: the berries grown on the bush will be larger and tastier!

Grapevine - how to prune correctly

Pruning grapes should be done while the plants are dormant. If your area has cold winters, wait until the buds begin to swell in late winter or early spring; so, you can make sure that the shoots that you leave on the bush are alive. (Juice may drip from the vine, but this does not harm the plant.)

The vine is usually formed according to the pruning system into four lashes, leaving a trunk from which 4 horizontal annual shoots (vines) extend: 2 in each direction along a wire stretched at 2 levels. An annual shoot is a vine that has grown over the past growing season, and only annual shoots produce fruitful twigs. Annual shoots are smooth, reddish-brown and easily distinguished from older shoots with dark, scaly bark.

To ensure this year's harvest, select 4 vines branching near the trunk and extending in opposite directions: 2 - at the level of the upper trellis and 2 - at the level of the lower one. Most fruits are formed on an annual pencil-thick vine, where the distance between the nights is 15 cm.

Tie a ribbon around each vine you choose.

Then form rejuvenation shoots.

The buds on them will give shoots, the best of which you will select for fruit vines for the next year and they will provide you with a grape harvest.

To form rejuvenation shoots, pick up 4 branches extending close to the trunk. 2 - at the top trellis, 2 - at the bottom.
In this case, the age of the branches does not play a role, since each has buds at the base. Lay rejuvenation shoots, leaving branches with 2-3 buds on each knot.

Now proceed to the most “ruthless” pruning step: grit your teeth and remove all shoots from the vine, leaving only the trunk, 4 annual vines that you marked with tapes, and 4 knots for rejuvenation shoots. After that, cut the remaining vines to a length of about 1.5 m - a little longer if last year's growth is very strong, and a little shorter if last year's growth is weak.

Pruning raspberries and blackberries

With the exception of remontant varieties, the shoots of these crops usually form leaves in their first growing season, in the second - flowers and fruits.

Therefore, the first stage of pruning raspberries and blackberries is to remove all fruit-bearing shoots, which will die off anyway in the near future. Remove old branches immediately after harvest - in the summer or next spring before new shoots appear.

Pruning of blackberry raspberries, blackberries and common raspberries continues throughout the growing season. These plants form berries on side branches, which are stimulated by pinching off the tops when they reach about 0.9 m in height. Pinching strong varieties should be done at higher shoots, weak varieties are recommended to pinch at a lower height. Pinching several times a season as new shoots reach a height of 0.9 m.

All other pruning on blackberries and raspberries is recommended when the plant is at rest. Form the culture so that the shoots grow in bunches. Remove the weakest from the previous year by cutting them at ground level.

It is advisable to shorten the stems of red and golden raspberries so that the fruits formed on them do not touch the ground. Cut the stems at a height of 1.5 m (or at the height of your raspberry supports). For blackberries and blackberry raspberries, the side branches should be 30-60 cm long. For raspberries with creeping shoots, stems 2 m long and side branches 30-60 cm long are left. After trimming the stems of raspberries or blackberries, tie them to a support.

Remontant varieties of red and golden raspberries open up more opportunities for you. If you are ready to forego the summer fruiting of the crop, then after harvesting in the fall, you can simply cut off all the shoots at soil level. New shoots that appear in the spring will produce berries by the end of summer.

A few tips for proper tree pruning to get more yield:

In order to increase the yield of raspberries, in addition to watering and top dressing, we pinch the tops of plants 2 times a year: in June-July, when they reach a height of 1-1.2 m, and in August-September at a height of 1.8-2 m. To in winter, the plant will stop growing, get stronger and tolerate frost well. The following year, after harvesting, dry branches are cut. Remain grown and plucked young shoots, which in the spring turn into a lush bush. The yield increases by 2-3 times.
When harvesting plums, cherries, etc. the simplest device that will allow you to get to the very top berries can do a good job. Tie a piece of a wide pipe with a wire to the end of a light stick, close it with a piece of gauze at the bottom, and sharpen the upper edge in the form of teeth.
Keep the stems of red and golden raspberries off the ground. Shorten and tie up the left shoots
The four vine pruning system may seem barbaric, but it produces large grapes.
Annually remove the "tops" - upward shoots that grow in bunches around old cuts. These unproductive branches take the energy of the tree, obscure the ripening fruits and do not allow the sun's rays to penetrate into the crown.

10 golden rules for pruning your garden

Trim trees regularly, but never do this work in temperatures below -8°C.
Use a reliable ladder, a sharp and well-functioning tool.
Remove all dead and diseased branches, as well as dried and diseased fruits.
Be sure to disinfect the tool with which you worked with diseased plants with alcohol, otherwise you risk infecting healthy trees and bushes. Remember: a small pruning provokes a small growth of new shoots, and a strong one, on the contrary, is intense.
Create and maintain the desired shape of the plant's crown. When pruning branches growing in the same direction, remove the weak ones first, orient the strong ones to evenly occupy the space.
Orient the branches so that they come off the trunk at the right angle (45-60°).
Limit strong top growth in apple, pear, and stone fruit trees.
Remove old, poorly fruiting trees, replacing them with young ones.
Do not forget to regularly check the condition of the trunks and heal wounds.
Observe the reaction of the tree to pruning, use the experience gained in subsequent procedures.

Pruning garden trees - questions and answers

Many gardeners literally do not know which side to approach the tree from to shape it. Let's start with fundamental questions, the answers to which will help the gardener tune in and prepare for the upcoming pruning. This theoretical part must be remembered when approaching a tree with a pruner.

1. How does pruning affect the growth and fruiting of a tree?

Shortening regulates the number of awakened buds and the strength of shoot growth. With a strong shortening of annual branches, the length of the annual growth increases, but the total length of growths on the branch decreases compared to the unshortened branch. At the same time, the growth of shoots is delayed and there is a danger of their non-ripening and freezing. Therefore, strong shortening is used in special cases - for example, when correcting the appearance of the crown. With weak shortening or without shortening, more buds are preserved, some of which, upon awakening, form shortened growths such as annuli and spears.

Branch bending moves the zone of awakening of the kidneys to the base of the branch. Branch bends to a vertical position enhance growth, to a horizontal position - fruiting. With arcuate bending, top-type shoots appear at the border of the bend and closer to the base of the branch, and fruiting, aging and drying intensify towards the top from the bend.

Interlacing, twisting, breaking and deformation of the branches is carried out to weaken their growth, increase the excitability of the kidneys, and turn them into fruit formations. Such branches are short-lived, and they are used temporarily to obtain an early harvest.

Blinding of the kidneys is carried out in order to prevent the development of shoots in unwanted places of the crown.

Pinching (pinching) is used to regulate the force of shoot development, accelerate the end of its growth, lignification, and turn growth shoots into overgrown shoots.

2. How does the tree react to pruning?

Pruning changes the growth of branches locally. Shortening one branch or cutting into a ring does not enhance the growth processes of another branch, even a nearby one.

The shortening of all branches of the crown leads to a decrease in the volume of the above-ground system of the tree, and a well-developed root system activates the growth processes of all branches. As a result, many dormant buds awaken and tops form along the entire length of the branch in the volume of the entire crown. This method of pruning has a negative effect on the development of young trees and, on the contrary, has a positive effect on mature trees, especially those that have reduced shoot growth.

Why am I bringing this issue to your attention? This applies to the time we spend on all dacha work in general. In addition to the garden, there is also a garden - the main internal competitor in terms of labor costs. A quick and shortened spring forces us to shift our attention and throw all our efforts into planting garden crops. And garden work is either carried out in an accelerated mode, or postponed altogether. Therefore, using winter time for the main pruning of the garden is the best solution in this situation.

In fact, winter pruning is not much different from spring pruning.

But some important rules need to be known and understood. Firstly, winter pruning is not carried out at 100% of the crown volume. What is meant? No matter how warm the winter is in general, no one can cancel the February frosts. Therefore, fine finishing pruning will still have to be carried out only in the spring. Otherwise, techniques such as "on the outer kidney" are doomed to failure. Freshly cut tips of thin twigs will inevitably freeze and will not justify our hopes. As for the removal of large, including skeletal branches, this also has its own characteristics. A branch more than 20 mm thick in winter is cut not into a “ring”, but with an indent of 5-10 cm. Many will be outraged by such a clear violation of the classic pruning rules - knots have no right to life.

I want to reassure you right away: this is not the final phase of pruning, but only an intermediate stage. The reason for this temporary violation of the rules is as follows. We all saw on the trunks and thick branches healed places after the removal of the branches in the form of a kind of "navel". They are formed as a result of a gradual "influx" of the bark roller directly to the place where the branch was cut. In turn, the cambium is responsible for building up the cortex. But in order for the cambium to fulfill its building mission, it must be alive. If we remove the branch, as it should be according to the rules, “on the ring”, the February cold will freeze this cut along with the cambium, the ion will remain open forever, regardless of size. Over time, radial cracks will appear through which, like through open doors, various pathogenic microorganisms can penetrate. First of all, these are spores of the tinder fungus. It can be called a kind of "invisible lumberjack",

since the visual signs of its penetration into the body of the tree become visible only after the scales of the fungus sprout on the trunks or branches. This means that the core of the branch has already been attacked, the tinder spore cycle has completed, and the takeover of your garden continues. These are the unfortunate consequences for your trees that unscarred cuts can entail.

But a margin of several centimeters will not allow killing the cambium along the entire length of the left knot, and it will successfully overwinter. And as soon as the cold ends, the time will come for the second, final stage of pruning. Now, with a clear conscience, we can finish the work we started in the winter. We carefully cut off the knots, and the sap flow that began with the arrival of heat will enable the cambium to successfully build up a cow roller, which over time will completely “seal” this place.

About garden var

It is necessary to mention one more operation performed after pruning - the processing of cuts with garden pitch. There are also several opinions about this procedure. Most often, it is recommended to apply the var immediately after pruning. I used to follow this rule too. But for several years now I have been doing this a few days after I cut the branches. Why? The fact is that a branch can be conditionally represented as a bundle of many microscopic sap-carrying channels.

When we cut a branch, we sort of open them. The most reliable way to clog them will be the natural drying of the surface. And these are not theoretical assumptions, but the result of practical observations. The higher the average daily temperature, the stronger the earth warms up and the more intense the flow of sap. And in the case when the var is applied "in a rich", thick layer, under the influence of heating it is deformed, slightly rising above the surface. Under this “hat”, moisture, which has nowhere to evaporate, is ideal conditions for the growth of various spore cultures.

For those who doubt, I suggest doing a simple experiment at home. Take a beetroot, cut it in half and wrap the cut in clingfilm. Then hide it, and in a few days you will find mold, slime or something like that under the film. This does not happen on dry surfaces.

Therefore, I let the cuts dry for several days, and after that I apply the var in a thin layer. By the way, the knots to be removed do not need to be processed. In winter, everything sleeps, and spores also cannot grow intensively on an open surface.

FEATURES OF CUTTING STONE CROPS

Cherry pruning should be carried out taking into account the characteristics of fruiting. There are bush-like and tree-like cherries. Bushy cherries differ from tree-like ones not in the shape of the crown (in the form of a bush or tree), but in fruiting on the growth of the previous year. This growth has a growth apical bud, and all lateral buds are flowering. After fruiting the following year, this growth becomes bare. So every year the length of the bare branch increases, and through

6-8 years of fruiting, a large number of long branches without overgrowing branches can be noted on the tree. Tree-like cherries have bouquet branches, and their crowns are not bare to the same extent as those of bushy forms. According to the predominant type of fruiting, bushy cherries include Vladimirskaya, Zagoryevskaya, Lyubskaya varieties, tree-like ones - Zhukovskaya, Molodezhnaya, Bagryanay, Volochaevskaya.

The ratio of flowering and vegetative (growth) buds depends on the strength of shoot growth. In bushy varieties, on shoots up to 20 cm long, only flower buds and only apical growth buds are formed, with a length of 30-40 cm, lateral buds can also be growth buds, and with a length of more than 40 cm, growth buds are predominantly formed.

In tree-like varieties of cherries, on shoots larger than 30 cm, mainly growth buds are formed, from which bouquet branches and new shoots are formed next year. On short shoots, only flower buds are formed.

The crown of cherries develops well even in the nursery and does not require special formation rules when planting in the garden. The stem is formed at a height of 40 cm (lower than that of an apple tree) in order to place the main and overgrown branches closer to the soil. Cherry branches and especially flower buds are less winter-hardy than apple trees, and if they are closer to the ground, part of them is covered with snow and preserved from freezing.

Prior to fruiting, pruning is minimal. Only broken branches, competitors and top-type vertical branches are removed. Sharp forks on large branches subordinate. With weak branching, the branches (shoots of the last year) are shortened by 1/3 or half the length.

Fruiting trees of vigorous varieties reach a height of 4-5 m, and they are reduced according to the same principle as apple trees. Remove the central conductor and vertically growing branches in the upper part of the crown. After lowering, the height of the trees should be no more than 2.5-3 m. Inside the crown, long bare branches are removed.

On the periphery of the crown, anti-aging pruning is carried out. Shortened for transfer to a strong lateral branch, which has overgrown branches with strong growths. In tree varieties, shortening can also be carried out on bouquet branches. In the lower part of the crown, sagging branches are cut to transfer to a lateral branch growing vertically, and in the upper part of the crown - vertically growing branches to transfer to a horizontally located branch or directed downwards.

PLUM

According to the type of fruiting, plum varieties are divided into three groups. In the first group (East Chinese, Ussuri, Canadian and American species), fruiting is formed according to the type of bushy cherries on annual growths. In the second group of cultivars (European), spurs are formed, and fruiting proceeds according to the type of tree-like cherries. In the third group of varieties, the type of fruiting is mixed. In connection with this similarity in fruiting, the formation and pruning of crowns is carried out in the same way as for cherries, and you can also apply pruning elements recommended for apple trees.

The crown of a plum is less thickened than that of a cherry, and in development it is more like an apple tree. Therefore, at an early age, the plum crown is formed like a cherry, and during the fruiting period, pruning is carried out according to the same principle as apple trees.

ADVANTAGES OF A SMALL CROWN

On stone fruit crops it is possible to form small-sized flat

crowns designed for apple and pear. Photo 1 shows the stages of the formation of such a crown.

At the fruiting age, pruning is reduced to the removal of vertical shoots and branches inside and at the top of the crown (photo 2). The cherry tree, formed in the form of a flat crown, at the age of 30 was 2.7 m high (photo H).

Cherry varieties, especially early ones, are largely damaged by birds. Crowns of small sizes can be covered with a fine-mesh net used in the repair of buildings.

Varieties of stone fruit crops differ in the type of fruiting and not all are suitable for the formation of small-sized flat crowns. Only those varieties are suitable in which bouquet branches (cherry, sweet cherry) and spurs (plum) are formed in large numbers on the branches of the second order of branching. All varieties of apricot and cherry plum have only one type of fruiting (on annual branches of the second order of branching), and it is possible to form a small-sized flat crown.

HOW TO INCREASE YIELD WITH GROWTH REGULATORS

Orta stone fruit crops differ in the degree of fruit set: self-fertile, partially self-fertile, self-fertile. There is experience in increasing fruit set by spraying auxins during the flowering period.

Experiments over 2 years showed that not all varieties responded to the same degree to the treatment that was carried out at the beginning of flowering.

Compared with the control, when processing cherries of the Molodezhnaya variety, the setting increased by 6.8%, Turgenevskaya - by 5.1%, Bagrynaya - by 7.4% in one year, and there was no effect in the other. There was no effect on the varieties Bulatnikovskaya, Rastorguevskaya, Chereshnevidnaya. In the plum of the Egg blue variety, in one year the setting increased by 18.8%, in the other there was no effect, in the sweet cherry of the Fatezh variety, the setting increased by 24.9%.

The noted unstable efficiency of fruit set by variety and year is due, in our opinion, to the fact that not all flowers bloom simultaneously and the flowering period lasts up to 10 days, and the treatment could not coincide with the time of the flower fertilization process. In our opinion, the treatment should be carried out three times: the first - at the beginning of flowering, when the first flowers appear, again every 2 days.

Photo 1. Formation of a small-sized flat crown: a - the beginning of formation, b - the formed crown

Photo 2. Flat plum crown with annual removal of vertical shoots and branches inside and at the top of the crown: a - before pruning, b - after pruning

Photo 3. Flat crown of sweet cherry at the age of 30 years

Trimming trees: how to do it right

In early spring, trees begin to be pruned in the garden. Before taking on a pruner, it is important to clearly understand why and how to prune a particular tree.

After landing

In the first years after planting, it is important to form a crown on the plant. During this period, remove competitors of the conductors of the skeletal branches and the central conductor, as well as branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle. To subordinate the skeletal branches to each other and in relation to the central conductor, shorten the continuation shoots by a third. If a very strong branch cannot be subdued by pruning the continuation shoot, cut it over the side branch of the desired direction and strength of growth.

Beginning of fruiting

After three or four high yields, the growth of branches weakens, so pruning must be strengthened. The goal is to limit the volume of the tree crown (in height and width) for better illumination. Cut out diseased, broken, intertwining branches first. Then thin out the semi-skeletal branches so that the distance between them is about 30-40 cm.

mature trees

During the period of full fruiting in trees without systematic pruning, growth fades, the quantity and quality of the crop are greatly reduced. It is considered normal if the average length of annual shoots at this time is 30-40 cm. When growth is weakened, anti-aging pruning will help - shorten skeletal and semi-skeletal branches. At the same time, remove half of the skeletal branches and old fruit formations completely. The harvest in the year of pruning will decrease, but in the next season it will compensate for all your worries.

Summer residents ask me: is it possible not to cut the tree - after all, part of the crop is lost this way? But it is precisely without pruning that we will not get high-quality fruits. After winter, I cut out dry, broken branches, as well as those that grow inside the crown. I adhere to two main methods: I shorten annual growths by a third (on young trees with a rare crown and strong growth); I cut off extra perennial branches (in fruit-bearing trees). If the crown of a tree is very dense, I stretch the pruning for 2-3 years, otherwise a lot of so-called "tops" (strong vertical shoots) will grow.
Another common question: what to do with branches that grow almost near the ground? I cut them into a ring, thereby raising the stem by 50-60 cm.
After pruning, I always treat all wounds with a balm based on pine gum resin (available in any garden store): it does not harden in the cold, does not flow in the sun, and is not washed off by rain. The balm is easy to apply in an even layer - it disinfects and clogs the wound well.

Required event. Its goal is to improve health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for caring for cultivated garden trees and preventing them from running wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives the necessary amount of light and its own space, without interfering with others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.

Finally, by cutting off old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inopportune time and place.

In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a procedure that is of great importance for the condition of plants and the quality of the crop. It regulates the metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agricultural methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

roots;
wood;
leaves;
fruit.

In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds at different times, directing forces:

to strengthen the root system;
to increase green mass;
for intensive growth;
for flowering and fruiting;
to protect against disease;
to prepare for a period of calm and so on.

His age, physical condition, state of health is changing. In this regard, the goals for which “surgical intervention” is done are different, and the type of trimming depends on them.

Based on the intended goals, share six types of pruning:

- delays aging and prolongs life.
Formative- models the appearance of the crown.
Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
Restorative- brings parts of the plant into tone.
Sanitary- heals the tree and relieves excess weight.
supportive- refreshes and rewards with new forces.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Anti-aging

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “wake up” adnexal buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from located in a good place. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchcropping will slow down this process.

Formative pruning goals:

acceleration of the onset of flowering;
increase in productivity;
well-groomed appearance;
ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
increased endurance;
ease of access to the branches for harvesting and care.

Formative pruning is carried out on a young tree, 3-5 years after its planting.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is gradually formed by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired one, may also need it.

Regulatory

With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and fruit yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth intensity.

It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, it is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant is damaged for some reason, restorative pruning will help restore the possibility of further development. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

to trees injured mechanically or frostbitten;
if the tree has not been cut for a long time and now has a rather neglected appearance;
when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient in sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance. Like most medical measures, it should be carried out as needed when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbite.

This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and the best time is the beginning of summer, when the tree wakes up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. You should also consider the age of the tree and its size.

supportive

held regularly during the life of the plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:

do not let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
avoid exposure of large branches;
rid the skeletal branches of the young shoots that annoy them;
maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing of pruning

The main load on the gardener falls at a time when the frost has already passed, but has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.

Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on the top of which a cherry seed that had been brought in knows how sprouted. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.

Early spring is the time when fruit trees are pruned. The first "swallows" in this matter are, and indeed pome fruits. Stones start a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of trimming are:

tree species;
condition of fruit trees.

If the plant is planted in autumn, it must be corrected before the juices wake up. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops. If the frosts have severely damaged the branches, it makes sense to wait until the time when the damage is clearly marked.

apple trees- the most stable crops, which are less affected by adverse conditions. It is with them that the work on recovery, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.

The branches of apple trees are prone to freezing at the ends even in frosts, it is better to clean this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

strong cherries or sweet cherries should be pruned after harvest;
if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
it is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in the middle or end of June.

They pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the event that the branchesbroke under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be right if the gardener waits for the time when is the sap flow going to start.

This time is considered the most suitable, since the tissues of the plant during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. The cut in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it may well be waited for, or even dispensed with in another year.

So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:

the earliest when you can start pruning is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait until the moment you are ready for the juices to start moving;
the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outward direction, making it smooth and even from the inside to the outside.
the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes, on strong trees eight or more eyes remain.

Summer

The concept of "summer pruning" includes several tricks carried out with green shoots that did not have time to acquire bark, in order to thin the crown for access to sunlight:

pinching- in order for shoots to grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
tweezing- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the uterine branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
breakout- to remove young shoots of no value for the crown, it is easily tolerated and does not need to be processed;
fracture- a rarely carried out technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Thus, summer pruning of fruit trees facilitates work in spring and autumn, helps to save nutrients inside the plants and improves fruiting.

Did you know? Designers have learned how to form various objects, such as furniture, from a living growing tree using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.

autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in the spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of the year for a very. Trimming trees in the fall begins then, when the leaves come.

If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the kidneys in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.

However, if there is a need for sanitary pruning, the above considerations lose their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not pass to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees do not respond well to autumn pruning, and some may die or get very sick after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.

in winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frost is rare and winters are mild. She is good because:

plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
the cuts made are more accurate and of high quality;
it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.

The procedure is performed on warm winter days, when it is not lower than -5-7 ° C outside - when it is colder, the wood becomes especially fragile.

When a tree is damaged due to strong winds, icing of branches or excessive snow weight, and, even more so, threatens to further split or break, the gardener does not have to question whether it can be cut. You need to cut it, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface on itself, from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, while large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.

Important! In young peach and apricot, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw used to cut it, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - treat with a special agent intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any other paints other than oil paints - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

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Garden trees and shrubs need competent and proper care all year round. To reap a bountiful harvest and be proud of a blooming healthy garden, it is necessary to regularly prune trees in spring and autumn. After getting acquainted with the basic information, you can easily turn even the oldest tree into a young one, and get fruits from it the next year!

How to properly prune trees

The formation of the crown begins from the moment the seedling is planted and continues throughout its life. A cardinal transformation, deep and plentiful cuts, experienced gardeners recommend in early spring, as soon as the temperature rises above zero. As a rule, this period falls at the end of February or at the beginning of March. At this time, the trees are in “winter hibernation” and will easily survive open cuts when active sap flow begins in the branches.

Autumn pruning is permissible only in southern regions with warm winters. In other areas, it is recommended to carry out it exclusively for sanitary purposes - to remove old, interfering and diseased branches. Let's look at examples of how to cut different fruit crops.

How to prune an apple tree

It is customary to cut the branches of ranetok and apple trees in spring and autumn. Summer removal occurs in the most urgent cases, for example, if the fruits do not have enough sunlight due to a too dense crown.

A newly planted tree should be cut with secateurs up to 5 buds. A shortened stamp will ensure the raising of branches above ground level, forms the correct crown bookmark, and the root system of the seedling will quickly take to growth.
The next removal is carried out exactly one year later, in the spring. By this time, 5-6 main strong branches should depart from the trunk, they should not be disturbed. Side shoots should be cut, removing one from each one quarter. (fig.2)

For the next 3-5 years, gardeners recommend not touching the developing seedling, with the exception of cutting diseased and dried branches.

How to cut a pear

Planting, growing and caring for a pear tree is much more difficult than an apple tree. In winter, the southern plant often freezes slightly, or even dies completely under the influence of severe frosts, it is for this reason that it is safest to form a crown and remove old branches in early spring.

For the first time in years, all thin, weak branches should be cut exactly by half, leaving only straight and strong ones that will be able to withstand a bountiful harvest of the fruit tree.
Every year after harvest, the tree is carefully inspected for dry and weak branches and pruned if necessary.
In early spring, a crown is formed - you need to cut off the last year's shoots by one third.

To rejuvenate an old, neglected tree and increase productivity, you need to cut the top of the stem branches to the growth point of the side branches, and reduce the volume of skeletal branches by half.

How to cut a cherry

Cherries and cherries do not need annual pruning. But it should be understood that the more the tree is thickened, the more likely it is that the fruit buds will move to the ends of the branches, and the gardener will receive a significantly lower yield. Sanitary pruning is usually carried out in the fall, after the leaves have completely fallen.

First, thin out the crown, give it more light and air.
Remove dry and diseased branches, if any.
Then remove the branches that interfere with each other and intertwine with each other. The ideal distance between branches should be 10-15 cm.
You also need to dig out the growth that has appeared, which weakens the adult tree and serves as an excellent refuge for hibernation of pests and insects.

Annual seedlings are not pruned in winter, as they still do not have enough strength to recover before the first frost.

How to prune a plum

Some varieties of plums begin to bear fruit as early as the age of three. However, it is not always possible to get a full-fledged good harvest. One of the reasons for the lack of fruits is an overly thickened crown. Plum branches grow very quickly, so experts advise paying special attention to their formation.

When planting a tree in early spring, pruning is carried out immediately up to 5-6 buds. The stamp from the ground to the end should be no more than 40 cm.
For the first time years after planting, it is necessary to adjust the size of the side branches. If their length is more than 60 cm, shorten by one third.
Branches that grow at an acute angle to the trunk must be spread apart by hanging a small load on a rope.
Carry out subsequent pruning systematically - remove crooked, broken, weak and diseased branches.

With the right approach, the crown should form in the form of a bowl. Then the light will fall on each kidney, and the plum will thank you with a good harvest.

How to prune other garden trees

For sea buckthorn, cherry plum, shadberry, honeysuckle, quince, viburnum, etc., the rules and terms for the formation of a beautiful crown are no different from those described above in the article. There is only one principle - you need to remove old branches, sick and those that interfere with each other. There are two ways to perform a cut:

Cut into a ring - the branch is removed with a saw or a sharp knife along the rounded edge of the branch. At the end, a beautiful even saw cut should remain, which must be treated with garden pitch.
Cut to a kidney - helps to change the growth of the branch in the direction you need. To do this, in the spring, a branch is removed above the desired bud, leaving a stump no more than 2 mm.

To rejuvenate an old tree, you need to cut not only the crown, but also the roots. On the side from which you are pruning branches, you need to dig a large trench 70 by 70. Put mineral and organic fertilizers there, then fill the ground back. Thanks to this method, you chop off old roots, at the same time rejuvenate and feed the tree.

The garden is the favorite brainchild of every summer resident. And he needs constant care. What we just do not do so that they regularly bear fruit and please the eye with a lush crown! , fighting with and, of course, regular.

Pruning is a pretty serious undertaking. It is carried out in order to:

form a crown
get rid of dry branches and branches,
adjust the growth of a fruit tree or bush.

Of course, it will not work correctly without harming the plant and without creating inconvenience for yourself without an "arsenal" of special tools. It is better to stock up on them at the very beginning of the season, when the assortment is wide and the summer resident's head is not yet crammed with a bunch of problems.

Basic requirements for pruning tools

Maximum blade sharpness. It will provide an even cut that does not injure the plant.
Safety and convenience during operation.
Blade ends of any pruning tool should be narrowed. This will provide access to the most difficult branches.
The tools must be light but strong.
Better if handle made of non-slip material. Yellow, red, blue tools are easier to find in the grass.

These simple points apply to any kind of trimming inventory. It's time to get to know the main characters.

Types of trimming tools

Let's start with the most famous and simple - with garden ones. This is the main tool for working with , and .

If only young trees grow in the country, then it is quite possible to get by with secateurs, as they cut branches up to 2.5 cm thick. By the way, most of these branches.

The first pruner (sécateur) appeared in France in 1815. Used it for pruning vines. The result exceeded all expectations: the cuts were clean and neat, and the treated area healed quickly. Over time, the tool was improved, and options appeared that were different in purpose and design. In the country economy, you can not do without two or even three different models of pruners.

The basis of the design consists of 6 parts. Of course, if you disassemble the instrument for the sake of interest, then there will be much more details. But it is precisely these that determine the safe and high-quality work.

The support blade or, as it is also called, the support lip.
Working blade.
Working axis (bolt + nut).
Spring.
Lever.
Handle holder.

Differences of secateurs by purpose

Secateurs for florists

They look like scissors, in which both the supporting and working blades are sharpened. Useful for those who are actively involved in the cultivation and creation.

Secateurs for pruning prickly plants

This pruner is indispensable, for example, for lovers. Its handles can be either elongated or short. In the latter case, there are protective pads on the blades that “capture” the cut flower, protecting the hands from thorny stems.

herbal pruner

If you haven’t done your job to the end, then you will come to the rescue grass pruner.

Suitable for gardeners growing.

"People's Favorite"! This versatile tool does most of the work. Its supporting blade is shaped like a sickle. Most often it does not have sharpening.

Important: Before going to the garden center, it is worth considering that secateurs are amateur and professional. The first thing that catches your eye is the price. Professional ones cost 2 and sometimes more times more than hobby pruners. Without a doubt, they are more convenient, durable and reliable. However, there are also good amateur options. If you do not want to immediately spend a large amount on an expensive professional tool, you can buy a model of decent quality (and most importantly - with spare parts) at an average price. Increasingly, manufacturers are producing spare parts for secateurs in case you need to replace a failed element.

Differences secateurs for ease of use

Seems like a minor factor. You can get used to everything. However, experienced summer residents always pay attention to it: the convenience of inventory is very important during long-term work. You can’t cut much with a hand that is tired of constant tension.

The design of modern secateurs takes into account the size of the hand and which hand will be trimmed. Therefore, on sale you can find:

secateurs for small hands
secateurs for medium hand,
secateurs for big hands
secateurs for left-handers (this model is found in the assortment of Felco).

Differences of secateurs according to the design of the cutting system

Secateurs are distinguished by the type of cutting system single-sided and double-sided cutting. Simply put, with one or two cutting blades.

Double cutting secateurs

The principle of operation here is based on the fact that two blades move towards each other until one of them cuts the branch and begins to slide along the inside of the other. People call this model pruners-scissors(not to be confused with garden shears!). They really look like ordinary household or stationery scissors with two cutting blades.

Secateurs-scissors rarely used to work with strong branches: they will not be able to make an even cut in one go, they will only compress the branch. And the summer resident, in an attempt to finish what he started, will begin to “crumple” her. This will cause delamination and cracks. So that pruners-scissors are suitable for young, thin shoots (up to 10 mm), vines, grass or flowers.

Single cutting secateurs

These tools “bite” the branches until the cutting blade reaches the plane of the supporting lip. These include bypass models and anvil models.

Bypass secateurs

Bypass secateurs are familiar to everyone. They are used for trimming live branches. The cutting blades of the bypass pruner look like a bird's beak. One of them is sharp, the second (supporting) is usually wide or notched. It is designed to ensure that the branch lies on a flat surface and is securely fixed. At that moment, a sharp blade cuts through it. The most advantageous position in the process of work is that the supporting blade is at the bottom, and the working one “looks” at the branch.

Important: Before buying, check the tool on a piece of paper. He should cut it well, and not “chew”. There should not be a large gap under the blade.

Secateurs with anvil

Need for pruning dry branches. Unlike bypass pruners, which act like scissors, anvil pruners cut like an axe. A sharp working blade will work until it hits the opposite plate - the anvil. The branch rather splits, being between the flat and sharp blades.

"Anvils" do not provide a careful attitude to the tree, therefore it is impossible to work with such secateurs with live branches.

What else to look for when choosing a secateurs

Working quality and service life depend from blade material. Most are made of stainless steel with a chrome, nickel or teflon finish. Blades are ideal high carbon or hardened steel. They will last several years without sharpening.
Availability ratchet. Such a system comes in handy when there is not enough strength to make a cut on a thick branch at a time. The spring returns the tool handle to its original position, and the blades remain where they were. The next time you press the handle, the pruner continues cutting, plunging deeper into the wood. As a result, the branch was cut in several stages without a "jam".
Optimal Materials for the pruner handle - it is polyamide, plastic with rubber pads or reinforced fiberglass. They do not rub the hand and protect against the appearance of corns.
Availability band return spring. It is considered more reliable and lasts longer than spiral wire.

You will find recommendations for choosing in the article.

There are manual (mechanical) and motorized. They also differ in the type of construction.

Mechanical hedge trimmers

The simplest and most budgetary type of brush cutter. They are inexpensive, easy to operate and do not require any special care. These are garden shears with long handles.

Single-sided brush cutters handle plants up to 15 mm thick. Models with double-sided cutting have straight or wavy blades. The latter are suitable for the formation of hedges, vines, low conifers with branches up to 10 mm thick.

Electric hedge trimmers

The middle option between "mechanics" and gasoline brush cutters, which we will discuss below. They are less powerful than gasoline, but work better than simple ones.

great for frequent use. It does not require refueling, as it works from the network. But this is not only a plus, but also a minus. You will only have to work where the cord will reach. In general, the tool is not so expensive (from 4,000 to 15,000 rubles), and life makes life much easier. The publication will help to understand the models.

Gasoline hedge trimmers

The most powerful and reliable type. Runs on a gasoline engine. A brush cutter can handle the most difficult and long work (with a break for refueling).

A huge plus of such a tool is its mobility. No need to pull the cord, look for an outlet, a spare can of gasoline is enough. At a price, this option will cost from 19,000 to 50,000 rubles.

Cordless hedge trimmers

The principle of operation is similar to electric ones, only they are powered by a battery. They are as mobile as petrol ones. You can move anywhere. The main thing is to monitor the battery charge level.

However, mobility comes at a cost. The price of a battery hedge trimmer is from 10,000 to 20,000 rubles.

Types of brush cutters by design

It is possible to distinguish 2 types of construction of brush cutters (we will talk about all types, except for mechanical ones). This is hedge trimmers and hedge trimmers. The former are similar to a trimmer mower with a gasoline or electric engine, a bar and a cutting element. The latter are more like a chainsaw, only the cutter is different.

Important: When deciding to purchase a brush cutter, consider what it will be used for. If there are 1-2 apple trees and a couple of bushes on 6 acres, then an expensive gasoline option is an irrational waste. You can get by with mechanical or, in extreme cases, electrical.

What else to pay attention to

Tool weight. Naturally, the heaviest are gasoline hedge trimmers, the lightest are mechanical and electric.
Handle comfort
Noise level at work. At the dacha, both the conditions and the neighbors are different for everyone, so someone will have to pay attention to this factor. Mechanical, electric, and cordless hedge trimmers are quieter than gasoline-powered ones.
Power. If your site needs only a decorative "haircut", then a low-powered hedge trimmer will master the shaping pruning. Powerful options can be used for long and complex work.
Torch rotation speed(for electric, cordless or petrol hedge trimmers). The faster the disc spins, the faster you can cut thick branches.
Presence or absence gears. If they are, then the cutting power will increase.
blade material. Better choose high carbon steel.

Important: It would be useful to have a brush cutter, the blades of which are covered special protective composition. It prevents the leaves from sticking. To understand whether there is such a composition on the blade or not, the instructions and description of the device will help.

You can choose a suitable model of a brush cutter, lopper or secateurs on our market, where goods from different online stores are presented. .

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Garden saw fiskars xtract sw 73 1000613 (123870) 1 549 rubles LOOK
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5. Pruning knives

Garden knives are needed for more “delicate” work: removing uneven cuts, removing burrs, or for grafting.

Now you can meet 2 types of garden knives:

cutting,
grafting.

Pruning garden knives

What can be done with such a knife? Everything is very simple here:

work with live or damaged thin branches (but not dry ones),
remove unwanted young shoots,
“bring to mind” an uneven cut left after trimming a thick branch,
get rid of thorns
cut flowers.

The blade of such a knife looks like a sickle. In length, it is either equal to the handle, or shorter. There are folding models or with a fixed handle. But the most important classification of pruning knives is based on the difference in size.

Interestingly, the Soviet industry produced 4 types of garden knives. All of them went under the general name "Michurin Knife", and then the model number was indicated:

No. 1 was 128 mm long and was intended for cutting branches up to 20 mm thick;
No. 2 - 118 mm, could work with branches up to 15 mm thick;
No. 3 - 110 mm, processed a branch with a maximum diameter of 10 mm in one cut;
No. 4 was intended for 7 mm branches, its length was also 110 cm.

Nowadays, 2 types are produced - medium and small.

Grafting garden knives. Photo from delenka-club.ru

Grafting knives are of three types:

1. Budding grafting knife

Already from the name it is clear that the tool is used for - grafting fruit and ornamental plants with a single bud, which is taken from a cutting of a cultivated variety. A T-shaped incision is made with a knife. They also move apart the bark.

The blade of a budding knife is similar to a regular blade. It is straight, with a sharp end and a slight rounding. There are models with a folding or fixed handle.

Important: Some folding models have a retractable "bone" to gently push the bark apart after cutting. In knives with a clumsy handle, the “bone” is located on the blade itself.

Copulation Grafting Knife

- a method of grafting with a cutting, when the scion and stock are of the same thickness. The blade of the copulation knife is straight, with a slightly beveled end. They cut off the stalk, make a cut and split. The shape of the blade can be either rectangular or trapezoidal.

Important: The copulation knife also has a “bone”. It is located at the very end of the blade.

Combined grafting knives

Combination knives have two blades. As you may have guessed, one is for budding, the other is for copulation.

Such models are produced in a folding version.

What else to pay attention to

Needless to say, before buying, you definitely need to hold the tool. It should be comfortable and "handy".

Garden saws, loppers, pruners and brush cutters have proven themselves well gardena. All tools are made from quality materials and are tested "in the fields", that is, in conditions as close as possible to real ones: with inclement weather, high humidity, etc. Prices vary depending on the model. For example, mechanical hedge trimmers-scissors will cost from 2,000 to 4,600 rubles, and more "complex" cordless ones can cost up to 17,000 rubles.
In assortment Husqvarna you can find brush cutters for thick and large trees (in case the site is completely neglected) and gas brush cutters for gardening (for example, with hedges). Prices start from 19,000 rubles for the simplest option and go up to 68,000 rubles for professional equipment.
In addition to these (the most popular among summer residents) brands, you can find others: Fiskars, Felco, Ars, Bahco and domestic factory" Mekhinstrument".

And what is rich in your garden pruning "arsenal"?

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