How to cut a profiled sheet for a round pipe. How to make a hole in a pipe with your own hands Technology for working with holes in the wall for pipes

The smoke exhaust structure is an element that is characterized by an increased fire hazard, therefore, solving the problem of how to make a hole in the roof for a pipe should be approached responsibly. It is also important to protect the roof from moisture penetration, otherwise its service life will be significantly reduced.

Corrugated roofs deservedly enjoy the trust of the owners of private houses, because they have:

a light weight;
long operating period;
appearance, reminiscent of the relief of ceramic tiles.

Decking is thin, durable and corrosion-resistant metal sheets that are coated with paint and pressed into the desired shape. After installing stoves or heating boilers, it is necessary to make a passage for the chimney through the roof structure.

Every homeowner must understand how to get the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board. Even if this work is done by professionals, it will not hurt to control the result.

Types of chimney structures

The chimney pipe is used to remove smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere. It is a hollow cylinder.

To organize this process, stove-makers build:

brick chimneys. The smoke exhaust system is created from heat-resistant bricks, which are produced using a special technology specifically for arranging furnaces. The pipe in this case has a section of a rectangular or square shape. This method of getting rid of smoke is expensive, but it is more durable and safer. Its main disadvantage is the porous inner surface - for this reason, soot and dust are deposited on it in large quantities. If the pipe is not cleaned regularly, soot layers can completely or partially clog it, the traction force will decrease, and the risk of fire will increase. The process of how to bring the chimney through the roof from the corrugated board is complicated and therefore it is better not to do this work with your own hands - it should be done by experienced stove-makers.
Metal chimney systems. To assemble the structure of the required configuration, you need to purchase stainless steel pipes with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. Then insert the segments one into the other - you will need straight tubular products, clamps and bends. Due to the slippery inner surface, soot cannot accumulate, which means that smoke can move freely up outside the house. The disadvantage of this method is that the metal does not retain heat well enough compared to the brick, as a result of which condensation collects on it, since there is a temperature difference between the pipe and the air outside. The metal chimney structure can be easily brought to the roof, because it consists of individual elements.

Chimney outlet - how to cut a hole

Before cutting a hole for a pipe in a profiled sheet, you should choose a convenient place for this. The decisive factor here is the location of the furnace unit.

According to professionals, the chimney should be placed strictly vertically, taking into account some of the nuances:

It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, which means closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is 50-80 centimeters.
Before making a hole for the pipe in the corrugated board, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To get around them, bends are used, with the help of which they set a turn of 45 or 90 degrees.
The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersections of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a quality connection will not work.
It will be possible to achieve the required level of thrust if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
To make sure that the exit point is determined correctly, it is circled on the roof with a marker and the temperature in it is checked at the end of the day. The pipe must be in the cold zone at all times.

Preparatory measures for the removal of the chimney through the roof

There is the following technology, how to make a hole in a profiled sheet for a pipe:

First, a permanent marker marks the place of its removal to the roof.
The size of the section of the chimney elements is selected taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating unit. The thicker and higher the pipe, the easier the smoke comes out of the stove. The main thing is that when connecting between the elements there is no gap.
A hole is cut out with a grinder with a thin blade for metal work, stepping back a few centimeters from the drawn line. The corrugated board must be cut carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is without jags.
Short cuts are made in the corners of the holes so that the edges of the corrugated board are bent up.
A similar passage is made in the ceiling. Then a metal box is installed, designed to connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney is laid through the hole inside the box.
Hydro and vapor barrier material, as well as insulation, are removed from the outlet cut out in the roof.

For cold areas, where the thickness of the heat-insulating material is more than 15 centimeters, it is necessary to use sandwich pipes with two layers of metal and a layer of insulation between them.

How to remove a pipe on a roof from corrugated board

When the preparation for how to bring the chimney through the corrugated board is completed, it should be properly connected and the chimney put into operation, for which:

It is necessary to insert the pipe through the hole in the box and direct it towards the roof, and fix the edges of the waterproofing material with adhesive tape on the surface of the chimney.
Expanded clay is densely poured into the box or mineral wool is used.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe to protect the outlet from water seepage. To improve waterproofing, glue the sealant to the corrugated board using a fire-resistant sealant.
The smoke exhaust structure is extended in segments to the required height, while the joints are tightened with galvanized steel clamps.
An external apron is installed, having the color of the roofing, which will close the box and rubber seal.

When bringing the chimney to the roof, it must be remembered that neglect of such work can result in a fire and material losses.

The passage of the pipe through the roof of corrugated board and metal tiles

Corrugated roofs have earned the trust of private developers due to their light weight, long service life and appearance that mimics the relief of traditional ceramic tiles. Sheets of corrugated board are a thin, durable, corrosion-resistant metal, which is covered with a layer of paint and, using pressing, gives the surface the desired shape. To heat the house, wood-burning stoves, gas boilers, solid fuel stoves are installed in it. Since the installation of such equipment is a technically complex matter, it is trusted by professionals. However, to ensure the passage of the pipe through the metal tile and corrugated board is the task of the homeowner.

Types of chimneys

The flue pipe is a hollow cylinder through which smoke and combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere. The stove-makers use the following options for organizing this process:

Choice of output location

Choosing a convenient place for making a hole in the roof from corrugated board for a chimney pipe is half the battle. Naturally, the decisive factor in this matter is the location of the furnace. Professional stove-makers recommend placing the chimney strictly vertically, but there are more subtle nuances:

It is best to place the chimney outlet at the highest point of the roof, that is, closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from the ridge to the pipe is 50-80 cm.
It is desirable that the hole in the corrugated roof for the pipe does not fall on the elements of the truss system. To get around them, they use bends, corner sections of the chimney. They can be used to set the rotation to 90 or 45 degrees.
The length of the chimney pipe segments is calculated in such a way that the joints are above or below the places where the ceilings and corrugated roofs pass. Otherwise, it will be problematic to make a quality connection.
To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney system should be 1-1.5 more than the roof ridge. If the pipe is too high, the flow of smoke will have time to cool down while passing through it, which leads to condensation.

To check whether you have correctly determined the exit point of the future chimney, draw a mark on the corrugated roof with a marker and check its temperature at the end of the day - the pipe should be located in the "cold zone", that is, remain in the shade for almost all day.

Preparatory stage of work

So that during the installation of the pipe there are no difficulties, you need to prepare the place of work and tools in advance. A hole from corrugated board is cut out according to the following technology:

After determining the configuration of the chimney, they outline where the exit to the roof will be located. Recall that it is better to place the pipe vertically.
The size of the section of the chimney pipes is selected based on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heater. The thicker and higher the pipe, the better the smoke is removed from the furnace. It is important that all segments are of the same section and fit each other, inserted without a gap.
On the corrugated roof, outline the pipe outline with a permanent marker.
A grinder with a thin wild metal cuts a hole, stepping back from the intended line a couple of centimeters inward. Work with corrugated board should be done carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is even, without notches that can injure you during the pipe removal process.
In the corners of the hole, short cuts should be made to bend the edges of the corrugated board up.
In the ceiling they cut out the same weigh. Mount a metal box that will connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney will pass through the hole inside the box, the distance between their walls must be at least 15 cm.

For northern regions, in which the insulation layer exceeds 150 mm, sandwich pipes are recommended, which consist of two layers of metal and heat-insulating material between them.

Exit the chimney to the roof

All the preparatory work has been done, it remains only to connect the pipe correctly and put the chimney into operation. To bring the chimney to the roof, you must:

Insert the chimney through the hole in the box and direct it to the roof. Using adhesive tape, the edges of the waterproofing film and the vapor barrier membrane are securely fixed to the surface of the chimney.
Fill the box tightly with expanded clay or lay mineral wool. These types of insulation are not subject to fire, therefore they insulate the pipe and protect against sudden ignition of the wooden elements of the truss system and the batten.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe, which protects against moisture infiltration at the outlet. To provide better waterproofing, the sealant is glued to the corrugated board with a fire-resistant sealant.

Do not be afraid of overheating of the waterproofing film from the surface of the chimney; mineral wool or expanded clay embedded in the box reliably protects it from fire.

Even a novice craftsman can carry out the withdrawal of a chimney to the roof, the main thing is not to forget that a negligent attitude to this issue can lead to a fire and the loss of your property.

How to bring a pipe through a roof from corrugated board

Today, corrugated roofing is one of the most common.

It is convenient to install, it has excellent technical and operational characteristics, and it has a wide color gamut.

But, despite all the convenience of installation, sometimes such a roof leaks, and often this leak occurs in the place where the chimney is located.

Today we will fully reveal the question of how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board.

Where is the best place to withdraw

The rules for installing chimneys are indicated in SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning". So in SNiP there are clear recommendations about the height of the pipe, which depends on its location:

If the chimney is located within 1.5 meters of the ridge, it should be 30 cm above the roof.
If the chimney is located within 1.5-3 meters from the ridge, its height should correspond to the height of the roof.
If the chimney is located within 3-10 meters of the ridge, the height of the chimney should be 12 degrees below the ridge.

If the height of the chimney is lowered, the draft may turn out to be insufficient, if it is too high, the risk of condensate will increase, and it is very harmful, as it contains acids that destroy the stove brick.

But the SNiP does not indicate where it is preferable to locate the pipe passage through the corrugated roof. At the same time, experts advise placing it on the skate, or as close as possible to it.

Firstly, it will prevent smoke from entering the attic.
Secondly, the smallest part of the chimney will remain in the cold zone, which will prevent the formation of condensate.

Installation of an adjoining to a rectangular chimney

To prevent leakage at the outlet of the chimney, it is necessary to properly connect. For this, a so-called apron is made. Its main task is to collect and drain water that can get into the gap between the pipe and the corrugated board. As a rule, they make the lower (main) and upper (decorative) junctions.

For the lower connection, you will need a sheet of galvanized steel, and standard strips of the same steel 150 by 230 mm. On such slats there is a 20 mm strobe bend at the top, and a 16 mm bend at the bottom to protect against leakage. The installation procedure is as follows:

Installation of a sheet of galvanized steel from the bottom edge of the chimney to the eaves. A tie may be used instead.
Chimney grating. To do this, the abutment strips are tightly attached to the pipe, with a construction pencil, or a marker, a line is marked along the edge of the bend for the strobe. Gating itself is convenient to produce with a grinder with a circle around the stone.
It is very important to correctly bend the sheets one under the other. Therefore, the first junction bar is installed from below.
Next, the side rails are installed.
The top bar is installed last.

Before installing the profiled sheet, it is necessary to resolve the issue of waterproofing the pipe on the roof from corrugated board. There are two popular ways:

Using only standard waterproofing film. To do this, when it is installed at the place where the chimney passes, an incision is made with an envelope. After installation, the excess part must be removed, leaving a margin of 5-10 cm, after which the waterproofing can be glued to the pipe. But at the same time there is a risk of moisture getting directly onto the membrane.
Additional waterproofing. It is best to use self-adhesive waterproofing tape. It is installed under a decorative abutment. The installation sequence is the same as for the lower junction: starting from the bottom, go to the sides, and then up.

The next stage of work is the installation of a profiled sheet, after which decorative junction strips are installed. The order of work here is the same as described above, with the exception of the need for gating.

Features of the installation of the junction when the chimney is led out through the ridge

The exit of the chimney through the ridge is the most convenient option for the subsequent installation of the junction. At the same time, the risk of leakage is also minimized, and the possibility of snow and debris being trapped on the roof is excluded.

At the same time, to implement this idea, it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the ridge beam. This problem can be solved by installing additional supports.

If the chimney exits exactly in the center, an apron made of smooth metal, the same color as the entire roof, is used to remove precipitation. The base of the apron must be sealed.

The most suitable material would be butyl rubber self-adhesive tape. The upper part must be protected from leakage by a decorative abutment.

Features of the installation of the junction when the chimney is taken out on the slope

Despite all the convenience of the method described above, the chimney is most often displayed on a slope. In principle, this does not create a large number of additional problems, and we have already described above how to properly mount the junction and arrange waterproofing. Except, perhaps, one important "but".

Installation of connection to a round pipe

Often, instead of a rectangular brick chimney, a round pipe is used. For waterproofing such a pipe, bitumen-based roll waterproofing or modified bitumen foil tape is used. Moreover, the foil will protect the tape itself from overheating, which will significantly extend its service life.

To protect the outlet of the chimney, it is not necessary to install two stages of abutment.

Instead, an apron-cap, or, as it is also called, a roof passage, is put on a round pipe.

Fasten it directly to the crate and seal it with a sealant.

When using a roof passage, it is important to consider one nuance.

The rubber heated by the pipe will melt. To prevent this from happening, a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket is attached to the chimney at the junction between the pipe and the apron.

How to run a chimney through an existing roof

We have already answered the question of how to bypass the pipe on the roof with corrugated board. Now consider the situation when it is necessary to bring the chimney through an existing roof.

First, the following preliminary work is carried out:

Determination of the diameter of the future chimney.
On a sheet of corrugated board, a construction marker indicates a cutting line. It is worth leaving a few centimeters of margin to the smaller side. For example, if you need a hole of 40 by 80 cm, then you need to mark 38 by 78 cm.
The hole cut is best done with a grinder with a thin circle for metal. To avoid the formation of burrs, work is carried out as carefully as possible.
Make small cuts at the corners of the hole and bend outward those few centimeters of the profiled sheet that we left in reserve.
In the place where the pipe passes, it is necessary to make a continuous crate so that it is possible to fix the lower junction bar and the corrugated sheet.
Cuts are made in the insulation and waterproofing. In order not to throw away too much, the waterproofing can be cut with an envelope and temporarily secure the edges with staples. This cannot be done with a heater.
A box is built between the chimney and the two rafters on the sides of it. The gap between it and the chimney itself is around 150 mm.
The edges of the waterproofing film are glued to it.
Before leading the pipe through the roof, it is necessary to solve the issue of thermal insulation in order to avoid a fire. Stone wool is best suited for these purposes. Just for this, we left a gap in the box.

After the pipe has been thermally insulated, you can proceed to its direct installation.

We install the chimney in the box. It is important that there is at least 5 centimeters of clearance between the exposed parts of the pipe and the tree.
To prevent the pipe from falling over, steel clamps are used, which are attached to the rafter system and the batten boards.

The next step is outdoor work. Now we will look at how to seal a pipe on a corrugated roof.

If just a round pipe is brought out, without a box, it is necessary to waterproof it using foil tape or rolled waterproofing, and install a roof passage, attaching it to the crate we created and sealing the contact points with a sealant.
If a rectangular box is brought out, you will have to install a lower abutment bar to prevent leakage.

Chimney lining with corrugated board

Chimneys are subject to aggressive environmental influences. This is:

Temperature fluctuations and precipitation.
The formation of condensate due to the temperature difference between the air and the chimney.

Also, a bare pipe on a corrugated roof is not attractive from a purely aesthetic point of view. To solve both of these problems, it is necessary to carry out the lining of the chimney.

There are several popular types of facing materials:

We will consider how to line the pipe on the roof with corrugated board. The profile sheet has several advantages at once:

Durability
Wide range of colors
Ease of installation
Easy Maintenance
light weight
Temperature resistance
Ecological cleanliness

In addition, corrugated board manufacturers produce special facing sheets designed for finishing various structures, including chimneys.

Thus, for lining the pipe we need:

Gloves or mittens to protect hands. Profiled sheets are very sharp at the edges, especially if self-cutting was carried out.
Electric jigsaw with a special blade. In extreme cases, in its absence, you can use a grinder with a thin circle. But keep in mind that the grinder heats the metal very much, which harms the polymer and zinc coating of the sheet.
Screwdriver and screws.
Insulation. Any non-flammable material will do.
Dowels "mushrooms" for fixing insulation and ordinary dowels for attaching the frame.
Hammer for fixing dowels.
Drill with a drill for dowels. In its absence, you can use a screwdriver, but this will slightly increase the time costs.
Metal profile to create a frame. In its absence, wooden bars treated with an antiseptic are suitable.
Directly facing elements: profiled sheet and additional elements.

We proceed directly to the installation.

The first stage of work is the installation of insulation. To do this, we drill a hole right through it with a drill in the chimney and fix them with a hammer.
Next, we build a frame for cladding from a metal profile and wooden bars. We fasten it to the chimney as well as a heater.
We measure and cut profiled sheets. The main principle: "Measure seven times - cut once."
Attaching the cladding to the frame. To each other, the sheets can adjoin end-to-end or overlap. The second option is preferable, as it guarantees the absence of gaps.
Installation of additional elements made to order. This is the top eaves bar and chimney umbrella.
For greater aesthetic beauty, you can perform work on the installation of a decorative junction of the chimney.

Thus, today we found out how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board, as well as how to line the chimney with corrugated board.

Corrugated roofs deservedly enjoy the trust of the owners of private houses, because they have:

a light weight;
long operating period;
appearance, reminiscent of the relief of ceramic tiles.

Every homeowner must understand how to get the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board. Even if this work is done by professionals, it will not hurt to control the result.

Types of chimney structures

The chimney pipe is used to remove smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere. It is a hollow cylinder.

To organize this process, stove-makers build:

brick chimneys. The smoke exhaust system is created from heat-resistant bricks, which are produced using a special technology specifically for arranging furnaces. The pipe in this case has a section of a rectangular or square shape. This method of getting rid of smoke is expensive, but it is more durable and safer. Its main disadvantage is the porous inner surface - for this reason, soot and dust are deposited on it in large quantities. If the pipe is not cleaned regularly, soot layers can completely or partially clog it, the traction force will decrease, and the risk of fire will increase. The process of how to bring the chimney through the roof from the corrugated board is complicated and therefore it is better not to do this work with your own hands - it should be done by experienced stove-makers.
Metal chimney systems. To assemble the structure of the required configuration, you need to purchase stainless steel pipes with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. Then insert the segments one into the other - you will need straight tubular products, clamps and bends. Due to the slippery inner surface, soot cannot accumulate, which means that smoke can move freely up outside the house. The disadvantage of this method is that the metal does not retain heat well enough compared to the brick, as a result of which condensation collects on it, since there is a temperature difference between the pipe and the air outside. The metal chimney structure can be easily brought to the roof, because it consists of individual elements.

Chimney outlet - how to cut a hole

Before cutting a hole for a pipe in a profiled sheet, you should choose a convenient place for this. The decisive factor here is the location of the furnace unit.

According to professionals, the chimney should be placed strictly vertically, taking into account some of the nuances:

It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, which means closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is 50-80 centimeters.
Before making a hole for the pipe in the corrugated board, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To get around them, bends are used, with the help of which they set a turn of 45 or 90 degrees.
The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersections of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a quality connection will not work.
It will be possible to achieve the required level of thrust if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
To make sure that the exit point is determined correctly, it is circled on the roof with a marker and the temperature in it is checked at the end of the day. The pipe must be in the cold zone at all times.

Preparatory measures for the removal of the chimney through the roof

There is the following technology, how to make a hole in a profiled sheet for a pipe:

First, a permanent marker marks the place of its removal to the roof.
The size of the section of the chimney elements is selected taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of the heating unit. The thicker and higher the pipe, the easier the smoke comes out of the stove. The main thing is that when connecting between the elements there is no gap.
A hole is cut out with a grinder with a thin blade for metal work, stepping back a few centimeters from the drawn line. The corrugated board must be cut carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is without jags.
Short cuts are made in the corners of the holes so that the edges of the corrugated board are bent up.
A similar passage is made in the ceiling. Then a metal box is installed, designed to connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney is laid through the hole inside the box.
Hydro and vapor barrier material, as well as insulation, are removed from the outlet cut out in the roof.

For cold areas, where the thickness of the heat-insulating material is more than 15 centimeters, it is necessary to use sandwich pipes with two layers of metal and a layer of insulation between them.

How to remove a pipe on a roof from corrugated board

When the preparation for how to bring the chimney through the corrugated board is completed, it should be properly connected and the chimney put into operation, for which:

It is necessary to insert the pipe through the hole in the box and direct it towards the roof, and fix the edges of the waterproofing material with adhesive tape on the surface of the chimney.
Expanded clay is densely poured into the box or mineral wool is used.
A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe to protect the outlet from water seepage. To improve waterproofing, glue the sealant to the corrugated board using a fire-resistant sealant.
The smoke exhaust structure is extended in segments to the required height, while the joints are tightened with galvanized steel clamps.
An external apron is installed, having the color of the roofing, which will close the box and rubber seal.

When bringing the chimney to the roof, it must be remembered that neglect of such work can result in a fire and material losses.

When performing work related to repair, laying communications and other operations, it becomes necessary to make holes in the pipe. This operation can be performed independently, without resorting to the help of a wizard and without specialized equipment.

Drilling a hole in the pipe can be done by yourself if you have a drill and a drill of the required diameter. On sale there are small specialized drilling machines that will help you make holes quickly, efficiently and safely.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools:

The most important tool is a drill, specially designed for drilling holes with a cutting tool (drill). When working with metal products, it is necessary to use high-carbon steel drills or special drills with tips. During operation, overheating and blackening of the cutting tool is not allowed.
To fix the pipes during operation, you need a fixing tool - a vice.
A file is required to slightly expand the hole; a drill is not suitable for this purpose, as it bites the material, forming an uneven edge.
A hammer may be required if a small diameter hole or notch needs to be punched. For notching, you will need a hand tool - a core.
It is possible to fix the drills in the desired position during drilling using a home-made template made of a wooden block, which in the profile should have an M-shape, where the center of the cavity should coincide with the axis of the pipe. The horizontal side of such a bar should be equal to the outer diameter of the pipe, and the height should be about 50 mm. The hole drilled in the top will later be used as a guide. The template can be made with several holes of different diameters at once.
If there is no fixing tool (vice), you can make a fixture that combines a template and a vice, which is made in the form of a U-shaped clamp, in the upper part of which there are template holes for drilling. The body of the device is made of a metal profile or solid wood. On the sides, 2 bolts are installed on both sides, which act as a locking mechanism.

The need for organizing cavities in brick walls arises when placing furniture, household appliances and decor items on them, laying communications and installing sockets. The use of high-performance modern tools simplifies these works; with properly selected drills, even non-specialists can perform them. The degree of complexity depends on the thickness of the structures and the diameter, small recesses can be arranged by yourself, ventilation ducts and niches require the involvement of professionals.

Perforators and powerful drills operating in shock mode allow high-quality and accurate drilling of standard masonry. Equipment with a speed of up to 2500 rpm, a power of 0.6 kW and above, with the ability to smoothly adjust the force from 0 to maximum and reverse support has suitable characteristics. Preference is given to the option with a self-tightening chuck, when it is used, it is easier to drill a brick wall with a large thickness (the time to replace the drills is reduced). The type, length and diameter of the nozzle are selected taking into account the parameters of the structure, the depth and the required section of the channel.

Hole type and diameter	Optimal drill type
Up to 18 mm, recessed into the wall by a maximum of 15 cm	Universal, with victorious inserts, diameter within 0.6-0.8 cm
Through, with a small section for brickwork with a thickness of 40-60 cm	Perforator drills up to 1 m long with rounded edges. The standard shanks diameter is 1 or 1.8 cm.
Through with a width of structures over 60 cm	Removable drills with different lengths, but the same diameter
Cavities for sockets, medium pipes and junction boxes	Crowns for perforators coated with hard alloys or diamond chips
Ventilation ducts, niches or openings of large diameter (from 15 cm and above)	Diamond core bits and drive or conventional drill bits to make a series of holes with subsequent selection of bricks

One-time and shallow holes can be made manually using a special punch and hammer. In this case, a bolt is applied perpendicularly to the pre-marked place, driven deep into the masonry and rotated on the axis every 2-3 strokes. In the process, building chips are constantly cleaned from the tube, after reaching the desired depth, the punch is removed and the area is dedusted. For all its simplicity, this method is considered laborious and is suitable mainly for one-time work; only a puncher can drill a large number of cavities with a limited time frame.

In addition to percussion power tools for drilling, auxiliary devices will be required: a metal detector, a screwdriver or a core, containers for cooling nozzles and PPE. Portable devices for finding pipes or wiring hidden under plaster are used in the absence of communication schemes, an excessively thick layer of finish, or in similar cases. For large volumes, it is worth renting a vacuum cleaner to remove dust. If it is necessary to create holes in precisely specified places to eliminate the influence of irregularities, a jig is applied to the surfaces, you can make a workpiece with a certain pitch and diameter yourself from plywood, sandpaper, glue or adhesive tape. Hardware fixed in the channels are selected based on their intended purpose.

Brick wall drilling technology

At the preparatory stage, marking and verification of structures are carried out. Drilling near wiring, pipes or ventilation ducts is strictly prohibited; a metal detector is used to eliminate risks. In its absence, the finish is removed from the masonry and communications are touched. This stage requires maximum accuracy, but you cannot skip it, experts note that it is easier to buy a tool or make cosmetic repairs than to change damaged wiring or hidden pipes.

To fix the drill in the correct position at the initial stage, the places are marked with a core. The ideal option is the location of these points in the masonry joints, but it is not always possible. Before turning on the hammer or drill in the room, it is recommended to turn off the electricity, if there is a hidden wiring - gas. The zone within a radius of 2.5 m is protected from fragments; when working at a height of more than 1.5 m, a ladder must be installed. The preparatory stage ends with checking the markup and providing free access to the desired point.

Drilling should be even, placing the drill at a right angle, avoiding sudden movements. With the correct length of the drills and the small thickness of the structures, the work is done in one go, in other cases, the metal elements need periodic cooling with air or water. Removable drills of the same diameter with increasing length help to drill a hole in the wall with a thickness of more than 25 cm. A simple sequence of actions is followed: drilling to a depth of 10 cm, cleaning, replacing the drill, deepening to 30 cm, repeat, completion. Not all drills have the required power, the recommended tool is a hammer drill.

It is easiest to equip a channel for a pipe or prepare a surface for sockets with crowns of the appropriate diameter with a diamond or pobedit coating. In this case, the emphasis is on marking and uniform drilling. At all stages, violations of masonry and damage to already working communications are avoided. If it is necessary to quickly obtain holes with a diameter of 150 mm and more (up to 40 cm), specialized diamond drilling units with forced water cooling are used.

The advantages include the absence of dust and vibration effects, good speed, low noise level, the integrity of the resulting edges and the possibility of laying channels at any angle. The disadvantages are the high cost of rent or services, the need to attract specialists and dirty water flowing to the floor. Diamond drilling is selected when ventilation is required, installation of air conditioners and hidden electrical appliances, arrangement of niches, installation of all internal communications, including sewers.

In the absence of equipment that allows drilling a large hole in one go, or a limited budget, the brick is selected in stages. The marking process in this case does not change: the main contour of a niche or opening is indicated with a marker, the risks of damage to communications are excluded. After that, a perforated row of small-diameter cavities is laid around the entire perimeter in increments of 1-1.5 cm, it is advised to drill them with conventional pobedit tips. Thin partitions and walls are knocked out on the last blows themselves, thicker ones - with a hammer and chisel. The sampling of residues is carried out as carefully as possible, avoiding shedding edges or removing blocks beyond the marked line.

There are no special restrictions, you can make a through-type hole from any convenient or from two sides. To speed up, simplify and ensure a safe process, it is recommended:

1. Start drilling at low speed (for plastered surfaces - no more than 300 per minute) with a gradual increase in power until the impact mode is turned on. Throughout the entire stage, not only the direction of the tool is monitored, but also its degree of heating. Fresh clean water is used for cooling, the metal part of the nozzle is lowered into the container, the frequency depends on the thickness of the wall and the hardness of the brick.

2. Apply special stops to control the depth. You can make them yourself from a piece of metal pipe or PVC tape.

3. Drill uneven surfaces with a jig - a plywood device that improves the quality of adhesion and reduces the risk of it moving to the side.

4. Redirect and remove the generated dust in a timely manner. For these purposes, another piece of plywood attached to the bottom of the conductor is suitable; for large volumes of work, it is worth renting or buying a construction vacuum cleaner. A lot of debris is generated when drilling ceramics; it is impossible to drill masonry without dust when using conventional equipment that is not cooled by water under pressure.

5. Use personal protective equipment, primarily gloves and goggles.

Walls covered with tiles, plaster or other cladding require special attention. Drilling channels in new masonry is easier: small holes are placed at the junction areas that affect the brick - in safe places. Soft and loose materials are passed at minimum speed, hard tiles - using appropriate drills with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the required section. Strong pressure is avoided in any case.

To mark the desired points, it is recommended to use a core, it scratches the lining without damaging it and keeps the drill in working mode. It also allows you to remove hard glaze from the tile without chipping it off in other areas. Best results are achieved by placing holes at the junctions of adjacent tiles. Finishing drilling is performed without turning on the reverse and high speeds.

When installing plumbing, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the tile. In the article we will analyze the various ways to perform this work.

Repair work may require making a hole in the ceramic tile for a pipe, sink, outlet, etc. The tile may already be laid on the surface, which complicates the cutting process. How to proceed in this or that case, we will analyze in the article.

Preparatory work

It is difficult to hold the tool in the right position when drilling tiles due to its smoothness. Therefore, before starting work, you need:

mark the location of the future hole;
tape around the markings with masking tape.

This will avoid scratches on the surface, chipping and slipping of the drill.

How to make a hole

Depending on the required diameter of the hole for a pipe, a sink or just a dowel, one or another drilling option is selected. Some of them can only be used if you need to get a hole for a nail.

Options

The principles of cutting tiles are similar in all cases, but it has its own characteristics depending on the selected tool. The main thing is the observance of safety regulations.

Drill bit for ceramics

Let's look at drilling options:

Gradual increase in drill diameter. The advantage is that the risk of chipping is minimal. Stages:

We take the smallest diameter of the drill.
Drilling should be slow, avoiding overheating of the drill. To do this, moisten it with water.
After deepening into the surface, when the tool does not slip so much, spray the tiles with water as well.
After getting the first hole, take a drill of a different, larger diameter.

When there is only a thin drill. Stages:

Drill several holes along the contour of the future hole for the pipe.
Next, without making much effort, knock out the center.
Grind existing irregularities using sandpaper.

To begin with, take a coarse-grained and gradually reduce the graininess of the sandpaper. This will achieve the smoothest possible inner surface.

Carbide drill for concrete

For drilling tiles, a carbide drill is also used. Sold in hardware stores as a drill with a pobedite tip. When working with it, you should adhere to the following rules:

Crown with diamond coating

The diameter must be selected according to the size of the future hole. Drilling order:

Circular drill for tiles / ballerina

There are special nozzles on the market for making holes in tiles - ballerinas. In fact, this is a drill with an additional cutting element.

In the center of the future hole, make a recess in any way.
Secure with a central drill in the hole made.
Work at the beginning with a drill at low speeds. Gradually deepening, the side nozzles will begin to scratch the tiles.
When half the work is done, turn the tile over and follow the same steps until the center falls out.

Using self-tapping screws with an LM tip

In the case when a hole needs to be made urgently, and there is no drill with nozzles or drills at hand, self-tapping screws with an LM tip are used. Operating procedure:

Outline the diameter.
We screw in the screws along the inner contour at small intervals and unscrew them.
We squeeze out the center and clean the bumps with sandpaper.

Bulgarian

To make through holes in a tile before installing it or curly cutting, an angle grinder is most often used. How to use the tool:

Outline the contours.
Install a diamond-coated dry cutting blade.
Gradually make a hole. The tool should be smoothly guided away from you. Take care of your fingers. Hold the tile so it doesn't slip off.

Work is performed on the front side of the tile to avoid chipping.

jigsaw

It is used to make holes of various shapes at the edge of the tile or in its center.

Markup. Produced from the front.
Need to cut from the edge of a tile? You can get to work.
Need to make a hole in the center? A small hole is made with a drill to thread the cutting area of \u200b\u200bthe jigsaw into it.
Set the tool to the edge of the cut.
Slowly, we lead the jigsaw along the markup.

Under the pipe

All options considered are suitable for making a hole. An exception is the method of drilling with a drill bit in ceramics with a gradual increase in diameter, since there is no tool of this size.

For the great snipe

You can make a hole under the dupel in almost any way considered. However, options such as the use of a jigsaw and a ballerina are considered inappropriate in this case. It is best to use a drill for ceramics or tiles.

How to cut under the faucet

The size of the hole for the mixer is smaller in diameter than for the pipe. However, the drilling options are identical in both cases.

Under socket

Sockets come in different shapes. Therefore, when choosing a tool, you should build on it. If the shape is round, then all options are suitable except for a gradual increase in the size of the ceramic drill. If a square, the best solution is a jigsaw.

Do-it-yourself hole with improvised means

A hole at the edge of the tile can be made without using the above options. You will need a glass cutter and tongs/pliers. Stages of work:

Marking the future hole.
Soak the edge in warm water for a few minutes. This will soften the ceramic.
With a glass cutter, without lifting the tool from the tile, draw a line along the markup. You need to make a fairly deep furrow, so do the work with effort, but carefully.
It is necessary to tap along the cut line. This will make the groove deeper.
Use tongs to break off a small piece of the tile until the excess material is completely removed.
If there are irregularities, use fine-grained sandpaper to sand the edge.

How to drill a hole in a large diameter tile: work steps

If you need to make a hole of a large diameter, use the following scheme of work:

Mark center.
Mark the diameter.
Insert a ceramic drill into the drill. As an alternative, a concrete drill, but of the smallest diameter.
We make holes on the back of the tile around the entire circumference. The distance between them is minimal.
Carefully punch out the center.
Remove bumps with pliers or wire cutters.
Sand the inner diameter with fine grit sandpaper. An alternative to sandpaper is an abrasive stone.

Do not use an impact tool, as the risk of splitting the tile web increases. Ceramics, although hard and rigid, is quite brittle.

In order not to form chips that spoil the appearance of the tile, you must adhere to the following rules:

Careful choice of tool, namely its cutting part. It is necessary that the glazed layer is gradually destroyed, and only then the ceramics.
Failure to meet performance standards. Tiles are placed on a solid surface, horizontal or vertical.
Excessive pressure on the instrument. The selected drilling option should be focused on cutting the ceramic sheet without additional pressure.

Depending on the purpose of the hole and the available tools at hand, the drilling method is selected. However, when performing work, it is necessary to observe safety precautions and follow the recommendations to reduce the risk of chipping.

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