Manual sewing machine seagull instruction. Seagull sewing machine repair. The needle at the entrance to the needle hole should not touch it

Sewing machine Seagull

The Seagull sewing machine performs a straight line, a zigzag line and, based on it, several types of finishing lines. It is completed mainly with electric and foot drive (cabinet).
Sewing machine Chaika 2, Chaika 142M, Chaika 143, Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1, Chaika 132, Chaika 134 and Malva are all a family of the same Chaika sewing machine model.
Their difference is small, with the exception of the settings for the shuttle node and the presence of an additional set of copiers of the zigzag stitch variety.
Before you start setting up the Chaika sewing machine, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil.

As a rule, the main malfunctions of Chaika-type sewing machines are: thread breakage when sewing; skipped stitches; looping of the upper thread in the line. There is also a characteristic knock during operation, but this is a design feature of these machines and the only remedy is periodic lubrication. Although there are exceptions, and Seagull sewing machines work quite softly.
Sewing machine Seagull: thread breakage; needle position.
The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible. Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.
The question is often asked: how to insert a thread into a needle in a Seagull sewing machine?
For all Chaika-type machines, and for most others that perform a zigzag stitch, the needle is placed with the sawn-off part of the bulb away from you, and the groove for the thread should look at you. It is from the side of this groove that the thread is inserted.
It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “unwind” the thread and break. It should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass.

Incorrect position of the hook of Chaika sewing machines leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps.
Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason. We will consider this particular unit in more detail, since it has significant adjustment differences from other sewing machines, including those within the Chaika sewing machine lineup.

First, set the needle to its highest position and see what the gap is between the shuttle and the output end of the pusher (a flat spring inside the shuttle). The gap should be 0.3 mm. If it is larger, bend the plate slightly. Do the same on the other input end of the plate. However, this must be done carefully and not bend the plate. If, on the contrary, it is necessary to increase the gap, place a piece of wire under the plate and gently press its edge.

The gap between the needle blade and the nose of the shuttle should be 0.1-0.05 mm. It is set in the position of the included zigzag stitch (maximum span), in the position of the needle when performing the left injection and is adjusted by rotating the trunnion body along with the shuttle.
To adjust it, lay the machine on its side and loosen the two bolts (see illustration) with an M10 wrench. By turning the trunnion (prying it with a powerful screwdriver) towards you, you bring the shuttle nose closer to the needle and vice versa.

Another parameter that can be adjusted independently is the moment the shuttle nose meets the needle at the right zigzag injection.
The nose should come up above the eye of the needle by 1mm. You can adjust this setting by lowering the needle bar.
The needle bar has a cut for the screw, its stroke is limited. If you can't get it lower, don't hit it.
Of course, this is not a complete list of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them on the Seagull sewing machine. In addition, the settings given by us are very general, since each model of a Chaika-type sewing machine has its own parameters and gap sizes, but as a general material, these recommendations can be used when repairing any household zigzag sewing machine.

Manual sewing machine Podolsk PMZ

The Podolsk class 2M sewing machine performs a straight line, it is equipped mainly with a manual and foot drive, sometimes with an electric drive. For beginning seamstresses, schoolgirls, (for labor lessons) - the ideal car. In terms of its performance and reliability in operation, this sewing machine, perhaps, surpasses many modern ones. After lubrication, she becomes a soft move, and most importantly, she is able to sew thick fabrics and materials. Some experienced seamstresses use it for sewing leather.

Of course, it has drawbacks: a narrow foot, a half rail for advancing the material, a shuttle assembly that is inconvenient for adjusting, but in general, the Podolsk sewing machine is a fairly successful model.

Very often they ask: how to insert a thread into a needle?
It would seem a childish question, but some seamstresses really cannot do it right, and sometimes they call the master, believing that the machine is broken. The fact is that its shuttle removes the thread from the needle with the right side (the needle blade should be on the left, as shown in the figure), and the long groove for the thread is on the right. Sometimes the seamstress places the needle with the blade on the right and the sewing machine even sews! But of course he misses, breaks the thread. Therefore, it is better to stick a diagram of the position of the needle with adhesive tape on the body. You may know how to insert a needle correctly, but your daughter, a schoolgirl, will definitely put it wrong.
When replacing the needle, the saw cut of the flask should look to the left, and the thread should be threaded to the right, inside the machine, and not outside, as is sometimes done.

Please note that not all models of the Podolsk needle type are installed in this way. There are models, especially the first ones, in which the needle is attached quite the opposite. To make sure how to properly install the needle, you should remove the needle plate and see which side of the shuttle nose fits the needle.

Look at the state of the manual drive of the machine. It often happens that all its nodes are weakened and not lubricated. Tighten the grub screws with a large screwdriver. Of course, everything must be well lubricated, especially squirt oil under these screws, since they also perform the function of a sleeve.
If the wooden handle dangles, place the lower edge of the sleeve with the handle on a massive metal surface, flare the upper edge of the sleeve with a hammer, it is only advisable to do this to a skilled person, otherwise the handle may be damaged.
And the last is the drying oil effect, which often occurs with inexperienced seamstresses. That is, sometimes a seamstress uses the wrong oil for lubrication, up to sunflower oil, and the machine soon jams and does not turn. Only sewing brand oil should be used for lubrication and nothing else. Even machine oil can coke if the machine is stored for a long time on the balcony, where there is a lot of sun and dust.
If this happens - remove the flywheel of the sewing machine, just pay attention to how the friction washer petals are installed (up). After abundant lubrication, let the machine stand, preferably a day, and if possible, add a little kerosene to all rubbing nodes. Then take a screwdriver and insert it into the slot of the main shaft, and very carefully try to pry the main shaft. The most important thing is not to break the slot of the shaft, since it is cast iron and its edges easily break off with excessive force. When the shaft is already turning, put the drive in and idle the machine, constantly adding lubricant, until an easy move appears.

First of all, adjust the looping unit, that is, set the distance between the point of the looper and the eye of the needle. It is adjusted by raising or lowering the needle bar. Outside, on the right, there is a hole for inserting a screwdriver to adjust the position of the needle bar. Insert a short screwdriver into the window and feel for the slot on the screw, and loosening the screw (you cannot completely unscrew it), install the needle bar together with the needle, as shown in the figure: 2-2.5 mm. above the eye of the needle.
As already mentioned, the Podolsk sewing machine has a very inconvenient gap adjustment between the needle blade and the shuttle nose. It can be reduced if the entire shuttle mechanism is moved closer to the needle, which is fixed with 2 screws to the machine body and is regulated by adding or reducing spacers under the shuttle travel body and should be 0.1 mm. But very often these screws are difficult to unscrew, and it is extremely inconvenient to adjust it. If you will be sewing knitwear, you will need to adjust this gap to a minimum value of 0.1 mm.

Upper thread tensioner sewing machine Podolskaya:
When the foot is raised, the thread should freely come out of the tensioner, and when lowered, tightly and evenly press the thread with the force that is needed for the given fabric and thread. In order for the thread to be freely pulled out when the foot is raised, unscrew the tension adjusting nut completely and remove the washer with a bridge in the middle. Make sure that the tensioner has a pusher (a stud with a flattened end). The jumper inside the washer can be pressed a little with a screwdriver, hitting it lightly with pliers and then the pusher will squeeze this washer.
The compensation spring must be in good working order, it gives the line a beautiful look and prevents the thread from looping in the line.

Of course, this is not a complete list of tips on how to repair a sewing machine at home on your own, however, in many cases, using this material, you can set up your machine yourself without resorting to the help of a master.

Overlock

Do-it-yourself repair, setting up an overlock

An overlocker, even a household one, is much more complicated than sewing machines and it is almost impossible to set it up, moreover, it is almost impossible to repair an overlocker without special knowledge and skills. However, it is not always necessary to repair overlocks or adjust them, sometimes it is enough just to adjust the thread tension and it will again overcast the fabric with high quality. Some overlockers are very sensitive to the thread setting, and when switching to other quality threads, you have to readjust their tension.

Some instructions provide for the repair of overlockers, their adjustment and give parameters for installing loopers and needles in case of failure of these gaps or replacement of loopers. As a rule, they are indicative, ideal. The master who repairs overlocks has to experimentally bring them to the desired value, so this type of repair is recommended to be done by a professional.
All our recommendations in the overlock repair section are generalized and will fit any overlock model, but do not forget to carefully read the instructions for your model, where you can find information on tuning, lubrication, type of needles and more.

If you have gaps or a thud, this is most likely a dull or bent needle. A dull needle can cause many problems. The overlock needle is a very important detail, many parameters depend on its condition, in particular, the clearance of the needle with the looper is the main parameter for performing overlock stitching without gaps. A blunt needle can be identified by running the thumbnail of the right hand along the needle from the flask to the end. The nail will definitely find a bent place on the tip. You can use a magnifying glass for inspection. If the needle is bent, do not try to straighten it, the overlock settings are very precise and do not allow the use of such needles. To check the condition of the needle, lay it flat on a flat surface. Inspect the needle from above and from the sides: 1 - parallel clearance. 2 - flat surface (glass, etc.)

Pay special attention to what type of needle is installed in your overlocker. A prerequisite is the use of only needles recommended by the factory. In addition to the fact that the needles can be with a round or sawn bulb, they can also differ in the length and thickness of the bulb, the length of the needle itself, and other parameters. If your overlock uses needles with a round flask, you must replace the needle with the same thickness and length of the flask. The sizes and types of needles used are indicated in the instructions, sometimes they are on a sticker inside the overlock. It is best to write down the type of needles on a small piece of paper and stick it with transparent tape on the body. In any household overlock, the needle is installed with a long groove - towards itself, or a sawn off part of the flask - away from itself. Be sure to install the needle all the way, and if you have two needles, then they are located with an offset (one above the other).
After prolonged use, the looper compartment and other accessible places should be cleaned of scraps, lint, etc., preferably with a stiff hair brush (for glue).

Overlock threads play a vital role in the formation of overlock seams. If you use threads of different quality or thickness, this will immediately affect the tension and therefore the stitch pattern will change. Overlock is very sensitive to tension, and the slightest change in one thread can affect all the others. It is ideal to use threads of the same brand, changing only colors. But in practice this rarely happens, therefore, when replacing threads with a different type or thickness, we recommend loosening all tensioners and at the slowest speed, gradually increase the tension of each thread, periodically checking which thread, and how much, tighten. Sometimes, when setting up an overlock stitch, you can use a different color of thread, for clarity of adjusting the tension of each, and then set the necessary ones.
Try not to use cotton or thick threads. The thinner and more elastic the thread, the easier it passes in the sewn fabric, needles, loopers and the stitch is better.

Overlockers should be lubricated at least once every six months, and with intensive use once a month. It is advisable to use a medical syringe for this, instead of an oil can. With a long needle, you can always crawl into hard-to-reach places, and spend less oil. Excess oil around the needle can damage the fabric being processed. Try to carefully lubricate the nodes that have contact with the fabric. The instructions provide a lubrication scheme, but you can make it a rule to lubricate any accessible places where there is friction of metal parts, even if they are not specified by the factory. In order to thoroughly lubricate all the components of the overlock, sometimes it is necessary to remove the protective covers of the case, but if they are difficult to remove, you can get by with factory marks for lubrication. Overlock lubrication should be given more attention than a sewing machine, since the overlock works at higher speeds and the lack of lubrication in some nodes leads to overheating and even jamming.

The list of the main malfunctions of overlockers:
Fabric does not move: The presser foot pressure is too weak. If the fabric is too thin, then the pressure must be reduced, otherwise the fabric will gather. Increase the presser foot pressure when overcasting thick fabrics. In general, the presser foot pressure should not be changed unless clearly necessary.

Broken needle: the needle is bent or dull; the needle is incorrectly installed; the fabric is strongly pulled by hand when working.

Thread break - Threads are not threaded correctly. Drive carefully. In some models of earlocks, threading into the loopers is a rather complicated procedure, and specially curved tweezers are indispensable. Be sure to insert the thread into all the points of its fastening indicated in the diagram;
The thread is tangled. Check the spool, maybe the thread has come off the spool and caught on the body part. Check the thread guides and the entire thread path;
Too much thread tension is one of the reasons for the breakage;
Using a different type of needle (see above).

Skipped stitches: the needle is bent or dull; the needle is incorrectly installed; a needle is used that is not recommended for use by the manufacturer; the thread is not threaded correctly or one of the thread fasteners is missing; Presser foot pressure is too weak.

The stitches are uneven: the thread tension is incorrectly adjusted.

The fabric is puckering: the thread tension is too tight. When sewing thin and light fabrics, the thread tension should be loosened; the thread is not threaded correctly or is tangled.

Overlock 51 class

Ovelok 51 class is perhaps the most common brand of industrial sewing machine used in everyday life, in small studios. Although morally this technique has long been outdated and many modern fabrics are simply impossible to process on it with high quality, nevertheless, its use is sometimes justified, especially for processing coarse and thick fabrics. One of the advantages, besides, 51 classes is an affordable price. For 3-4 thousand rubles, you can buy a pretty decent used overlocker. Sometimes there is a problem to perform repairs, set up an overlock. All instructions for it have been lost, there is practically no literature available, and the services of a master are sometimes more expensive than the oven itself. For this case, we offer you a small recommendation.

Technical characteristics of the overlock class 51 and 51-A.
the maximum frequency of rotation of the main shaft is 3500 rpm; stitch length 1.5...4 mm; overcasting width 3-6 mm; the maximum thickness of the processed fabrics is 2.5 mm. Overlock class 51 is distinguished by the presence of a differential fabric feed, in a class 51-A machine - a simple rail. It can be explained more simply as a class 51 overlock can stretch the edge of the sewn fabric, which makes the seam elastic, this is very important for knitted fabrics. Therefore, it can overcast not only suit and coat fabrics, but also knitted and underwear. Outwardly, they are exactly the same, but the presence of a differential rail greatly increases its capabilities. Both machines use needle type 0029 - (60, 65, 75, 90, 100)

To set up the overlock yourself, perhaps there are few instructions, experience and skill are required. The correct interaction of the loopers and the needle with each other occurs subject to the observance of many parameters, which are quite difficult to set without experience. In this manual for 51 overlocks, the main ones are given, which can only serve as a guide for you when setting up.

The main guideline for setting is the left looper (lower) L. When lowering the needle to the lowest position, it should take the leftmost position at a distance of 4 ... 5 mm from the needle. When lifting the needle by 2.5-3 mm. a loop of the needle thread is formed and the nose of the left looper, moving to the right towards the needle, at this moment (1.5 ... 2 mm above the eye of the needle) should capture the loop formed. The gap between the looper blade and the needle should be as small as 0.05mm. This gap can be set by loosening the screw securing the left looper B, and carefully turning it towards the needle at the moment it approaches it. After several attempts to achieve the required clearance, do not forget to tighten the screw B. Do not loosen the screw B too much, the looper should be fed with a little effort.
Having grasped the loop, the left looper pulls it along its edge, and the right looper R moves towards it to enter the loop of the left looper. The nose of the right looper passes along the recess on the back side of the left looper, as close as possible to its eye and blade at the same time. If a horizontal line is drawn at this point, the nose of the right looper should be below the eye of the left looper and the gap between the blades of both loopers should be 0.1...0.15 mm. You can get confused in these terms, but it doesn’t get any easier ... Now it remains only to remove the loop from the right looper with the needle, and the overlock will work like a clock.
When lowering the needle into the loop of the right looper, the gap between it and the blade should also be 0.1 ... 0.15 mm and the distance between the eye of the right looper and the point of the needle (when they are at the same level) is approximately 0.3..0.5 mm.
The right looper does not have an adjustment screw to bring its nose closer or further away, it is rigidly fixed with a screw to the platform. Its adjustment takes place in a banal way: by carefully bending it in one direction or another. But the left looper cannot be bent.

It should be noted that there is only one correct arrangement of the loopers and the needle, in which the 51 overlock will work flawlessly. All the figures given are only a guideline when setting up an overlock, some parameters may differ for your machine, it all depends on the installation of the cam. Turning it 1-2 degrees will change the position of both loopers at the same time, but in order not to break the loopers, this adjustment should only be made by an experienced tuner.
The reason for the sudden appearance of gaps may be the displacement of the needle bar with the needle up, check this parameter first. Perhaps by simply lowering the needle bar (screw I) by 0.5-1.0 mm, you will eliminate gaps.

Threading overlock 51 class.
Proper threading is the main condition for the normal operation of the overlocker. Tweezers are used to thread the thread.
First, the thread of the right (upper R) looper is threaded (Fig. P): through two holes 1, between the tensioner washers 6 into the thread feeder 8, under the bracket of the wire thread guide of the thread guide 9 and into the eyes of the looper away from you. From the stand with the bobbin of the lower looper L (left), the thread is threaded (Fig. L) into the hole 1, then into the eye of the thread puller 3 and into the hole of the thread guide 8, fixed on the cover of the machine, through the hole 9 and 10 in the side cover, then through the tensioner 12 , through the tubular thread guide 13, under the thread take-up 14 and into the eyes of the left looper away from you.
The thread of the needle from the rack from the bobbin is carried out (Fig. B) through the holes 1 in the thread guide plate 2, between the washers 3 of the tension regulator, the holes 4 on the left side of the plate 2 in front of the shaped thread puller 5, into the eye 6 of the thread feeder mounted on the leash of the needle mechanism, between washers 7 tension and into the eye of the needle 8 away from you.

Overlock stitch length adjustment (fig. X).
The overall movement of the rail occurs under the action of an eccentric, which is regulated by two screws located deep in the body. An eccentric is attached to the main shaft of the machine. In the body 1 there is a groove for the passage of the slider - the eccentric 4, the displacement of which leads to a change in the length of the stitch (more often, less often). This displacement is carried out by screw 2 after loosening screw 3.

Installation of knives - overlok 51 class.
Trimming the edges of the sewn fabrics is carried out with two knives: the upper movable knife 4 mounted on the swinging lever of the knife 7, and the lower one 11, which is fixed in the block 12 on the machine body. The position of the upper knife 4 is set depending on the width of the overcast. The upper knife is fixed in the holder 5, which can be rearranged in the ears of the lever 7. To move the knife, it is necessary to unscrew the screw 6 of the clamp 10 on the holder 9 with a screwdriver and move the holder to one side or the other, depending on the width of the overcasting. To ensure normal trimming of the material, the upper knife 4 with its plane should fit snugly, without a noticeable gap, against the plane of the lower knife 11. After the upper knife 4 is installed in accordance with the required overcasting width, the lower knife 11 is brought to it, this movement of the block is performed 12 by means of the bottom screw 14 with a round knurling. The front screw 13 on the housing, which secures the block, is first released with a screwdriver. Both the lower and upper knife can also be adjusted in the vertical direction after releasing the fixing screws: 8 for the upper and 1 for the lower knife. The lower knife is installed in the block so that its cutting edge is at the level of the overlog needle plate. The upper knife is set so that its cutting edge overlaps the cutting edge of the lower knife by approximately 1 mm. When changing the width of the overcasting, it is necessary to adjust the position of the plate 2 on the presser foot, releasing the pre-fixing screw 3.

Sewing machine "Radom" - 432 KL.
(manufactured in Poland)

Full zigzag machine with electric drive.

The machine has an original design and a very attractive appearance. The peculiarity of the device of the machine is that the needle and the shuttle device synchronously with it perform a rectilinear reciprocating motion along the longitudinal axis of the machine with a zigzag.

A zigzag mechanism is mounted at the top in the sleeves on the right, which, by means of a rod, drives the needle bar frame, and at the same time the vertical shaft moves the shuttle travel body through a system of levers. With such a device, the needle does not change its permanent position relative to the shuttle.

The shuttle and the bobbin case are interchangeable with the parts of the Chaika machine. The shuttle is right-handed, swinging in a vertical plane. Shuttle movement drive as in a 2M class PMZ machine: crankshaft-connecting rod-small shaft with a link-crank-shaft of the shuttle pusher. There is a leaf spring on the shuttle pusher. The supply of fabric is carried out as in the case of a 2M class PMZ machine.

The bobbin winder is turned on and off by the bobbin lock.

One of the main negative factors of this machine is the impossibility of giving the flywheel an increased rotational speed. Even at an average speed (300 rpm) of the crankshaft with a zigzag in the machine, an unbalanced perturbing force is formed along the axis of the machine, which leads to strong vibration, which negatively affects not only the stability of the adjustments, but also the connections of all components and parts .

Gap adjustment.

1. Upper thread tension regulator. The compensation spring is adjusted by turning the axis in the base cylinder of the regulator and is locked with an M4 screw. The regulator assembly, being in the opening of the sleeve of the machine, can be rotated to any angle. The seating depth is limited by the rim on the base cylinder.

The compensation spring on the left side rests on a protrusion in the cylinder rim. The initial position of the spring hook is strictly vertical at the level of the regulator axis.

1. The position of the needle in the slot of the needle plate (Fig. 1), where V = D is normal. Adjustment - factory setting. In extreme cases, by bending the lower end of the needle bar, you can bring the needle to the middle relative to the back and front walls of the gap. You can cut the front or back side of the needle groove in the needle bar. To disassemble the assembly, proceed as follows. Remove the needle holder with thread guide. At the top left of the needle bar frame, loosen the screw securing the thrust. Pull up connecting rod together with pin. Loosen the screw securing the needle bar from the front and pull the latter up.

Needle position B< Г и В >Г - does not play a special role, since such a displacement will be insignificant and will coincide with the plane of rotation of the shuttle. Here B = D is the condition that guarantees the impactless operation of the needle on the needle plate.

Rice. 1. The position of the needle in the needle plate (machine "Radom" 432 cells, "AIKO" -AE 350 cells):

1 - back side; 2 - front side; 3 - needle; 4 - the trajectory of the shuttle: A \u003d B - straight line; M \u003d K - zigzag stitch; B \u003d G - normal position of the needle; a is the distance between the needle and the shuttle; b - the moment of the meeting of the needle with the shuttle

1. The position of the needle in the gap of the needle plate on a straight stitch. M - left side. K is the right side. A \u003d B - normal and regulated by traction. At the top of the sleeves, the frame of the needle bar with the zigzag block is connected by a lamellar thrust. At its right end there is an adjusting screw, by loosening which, you can lengthen or shorten the rod.
2. Adjust the position of the needle in the slot of the needle plate with a zigzag so that M = K is normal. M - left zigzag prick, K - right zigzag prick. Deviations when M > K and M< К — недопустимы, так как это нарушит величину зазора между иглой и челноком в вертикальной плоскости его движения, что приведет или к поломке иглы (М >K), or to skip stitches in stitching (M< К). Так бывает, если челнок на месте, а игла сместилась. Но при смещении челнока и незыблемости иглы значения М и К будут другими. Регулировать, изменяя длину тяги (см.П.3).
3. The gap between the needle and the shuttle in the plane of its movement should be within 0.05-0.1 mm. The whole device, which ensures strict synchronism of the movement of the needle and the shuttle, is aimed precisely at ensuring the stability of this very small gap. During prolonged operation or at a high flywheel speed (400 rpm or more), this gap is violated first and the entire synchronous movement is mismatched - the machine fails.

To adjust the machine and restore synchronism, the following methods should be used. Roll the car over to the back. Place a support 160 mm high under the machine arm. The body 1 of the shuttle stroke on the right has an elongated hollow pin 4, which runs in the same sleeve pressed into the body of the platform. At the right end of the trunnion there is a clamp-bracket 5, connected by a rod with a vertical shaft, which performs oscillatory movements during a zigzag. The amplitude of the shaft oscillation is equal to the width of the zigzag. By loosening the screw 6 fastening the clamp at the end of the trunnion, you can turn the shuttle travel housing at a certain angle and move it longitudinally to the right or left. When the body is shifted to the left, the gap decreases, to the right it increases.

1. The distance between the needle and the guide plate, screwed with two screws to the body of the shuttle, is 0.8-1 mm. It is adjusted by turning the shuttle travel housing. Turning it clockwise increases the distance, while turning it counterclockwise decreases it.
2. The entry of the nose of the shuttle behind the needle, when it is in the lowest position, is 3.5 mm (Fig. 1). Adjust as follows: on the right end of the shuttle pusher shaft, a bracket for the backstage of the small shaft is fixed with a clamp. After loosening the fastening screw from below and holding the flywheel from turning, turn the pusher shaft, and hence the shuttle, in one direction or the other. After setting the desired distance, tighten the clamping screw of the collar tightly (it is very inconvenient to do this).
3. The moment the shuttle nose meets the needle is determined by two factors:

a) during the time from the beginning of the movement of the needle and the shuttle until the moment they meet, the needle must travel a path of at least 2 mm. It will be better if it passes more than 2 mm. Here the score is in tenths of a millimeter;

b) the eye of the needle at the lowest position should not be obstructed by the input end of the shuttle pusher. Otherwise, the loop-overlap will be bent by the end of the pusher to the side and stitches will be skipped in the line (this item is the same for all machines with a similar hook and pusher device). The meeting should take place at a distance of 2 mm above the eye of the needle.

All adjustments of the shuttle with a needle should be made when the stitch type control knob is set to a straight stitch (see Aiko sewing machine).

When setting knob 2 (fig.) to the mark "zero" - there is a straight wavy line. To eliminate the problem, remove the top cover of the sleeve. Set lever 2 to "1". Loosen screw 3 and move lever 2 slightly to the right. Tighten the screw 3. Turn on the machine and, while performing a straight stitch, see if there is any waviness; if it has not disappeared, repeat the operation. By moving lever 2 to the right (left) by a very small amount, the waviness on the straight stitch will disappear.

Rice. The upper part of the zigzag block "Radom" -432:

1 - front wall of the sleeve; 2 - lever for setting the zigzag width; 3 - straight stitch adjusting screw; 4 - rod; 5 - adjusting screw for the position of the needle on the zigzag.

The lower part of the needle bar is bent. To straighten it, you need to disassemble the needle bar assembly:

1) remove the shield with the cartridge and bring it to the back side;

2) disassemble the presser bar assembly;

3) Loosen the two screws of the lock bushings of the presser foot bar. Lower the lower bushing down, the upper bushing up and remove the frame with the needle bar. Pull out the needle bar through the bottom eyelet;

4) on an open flame, heat the lower end of the needle bar to a crimson color and straighten it.

Reassemble in reverse order. Check the operation of the needle bar. Its movement up and down should be easy, without the slightest jamming.

Among the fierce competition from imported products, domestic goods still managed to defend their place. Many devices, equipment, even cars - mind you, are on the move even today, after so many years! Surprisingly, there is practically no wear and tear on Soviet things - they faithfully serve us even in the most difficult times, such as, for example, the Chaika sewing machine, And the instruction manual for which is given below.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Chaika sewing machine

In the past, a lot of money would have to be paid for this “unit” - in the time of our grandmothers, it was highly valued. And it was not for nothing that they asked for a high price for them: even today it is not easy to break or disable such a machine. Its main advantage is stamina and endurance. The aluminum case does not damage the internal mechanisms, all the details of which are made of real, durable metal. All knots and fastenings of the machine are made precisely and reliably.

But even with such “Spartan health”, the “Seagull” sewing machine can sometimes fail: it happens that the line “winds” (especially when performing the “zigzag” line). You can put up with this, because it does not happen so often. But when it really bothers, even the instruction supplied by the manufacturer does not become a huge help: unfortunately, there is almost no word about repairing the device in it. Perhaps because it should be carried out by a trained and experienced person - an expert in "sewing machines". But there are some problems that you can fix yourself.

The main components of the mechanism

Before the operation of the Chaika sewing machine is started, the unit must be properly configured. For this:

• Remove the top cover of the machine (using the two screws on the top). Use a few drops of oil to lubricate the main components and fasteners of the front. Pay attention to this compartment, it contains screws 1 and 2, which need to be tightened from time to time so that the tensioner does not “ride” in the nest.
• Next, work with the rail (especially if you notice that the fabric does not move well during work). The feed dog teeth can be raised, and it is best to set it to the H position, which stands for Normal (B stands for Embroidery).
• The tension of the drive belt will need to be adjusted. To do this, loosen the friction screw (it holds the flywheel). With these components, be extremely careful and pay attention to the position of the petals.
• Lubricate the bobbin winder at the same time.
• Select the right needle number

The Seagull sewing machine will not work well if you do not pick up the right needle. Too thin needle "wipes" the thread and breaks it. Too thick - can destroy the fiber, causing the seams to unravel (especially after washing). You also need a special needle for fabrics such as stretch, jeans, leather.

• silk, cambric - No. 70;
• chintz, satin, cambric, linen fabrics - No. 80;
• cotton, coarse calico, flannel, fine wool - No. 90;
• wool, costume fabric - No. 100;
• thick wool, cloth - No. 110.

Installing the needle correctly

It is important that the needle does not dangle in the opening, therefore, when installing, make sure that it is installed up to the stop, and tighten the screw firmly (this way you can avoid the needle jumping off, which is especially dangerous during operation). The sawn side of the needle should look away from you (needles with round flasks should not be used at all - they spoil the quality of work and make the machine less durable).

How to fill the sewing machine "Seagull?"

When threading the upper thread, it is only important to secure it firmly. The operation of the entire machine depends on whether the thread is threaded, how it stands through the compensation spring. Be careful about this - otherwise the thread will begin to "wag".

In order to properly arrange the lower thread, you must first remove the bobbin from the device. The thread should be tightened under the spring plate of the cap and create the desired tension (turning the screw to the left - weaker, to the right - vice versa). Note that the tension should not be strong, but noticeable. Often you will not have to change the thread tension, only in cases where the seam will have to be made on thin fabrics.

Sewing machine "Seagull": instruction manual

First, let's figure out how to make a straight line. There is such an element - the zigzag width lever, and so it needs to be set to zero. Next - set the required stitch length (3-4 cm), thread the threads. Carefully inspect the rack teeth: set the shift lever to the H (normal) position. For silk/delicate fabrics, set to W (silk).

For zigzag stitch, the zigzag width lever is “0-5” and the stitch length is 1-3mm. Attention! When performing a zigzag stitch, you need to additionally adjust the thread tension so that it is equal.

Lubrication of sewing machines "Seagull"

Lubrication in this type of sewing machine is carried out in most cases in order to at least slightly reduce the generated noise (unfortunately, this is an unpleasant detail of working with the Seagull machine). It is impossible to completely eliminate the sound emitted by the mechanism at home. But if the teeth of the gears are lubricated with thick graphite grease, then the knock will become quieter.

It is undesirable to perform ordinary lubrication (and cleaning) more often than once every six months. Basically, you should pay attention to the joints of several metal parts.
So, first, remove the top cover and vanerka (bottom protection) to get to the "insides". It is worth using only proven oil, which is specially produced for lubricating sewing machines. At the same time, even the highest quality oil will not protect against greasy stains on the fabric if you "overdo it." Remember, 1-3 drops of oil - and it's done.

The tools you will need for cleaning and lubrication are a regular glue brush (to clean the shuttle and shuttle compartment) and a regular medical syringe (for even lubrication).

The sewing machine "Seagull" can perform a straight stitch, "zigzag" and, based on it, several other types of finishing stitches. Nowadays, you can buy a machine only with a pedal (electric drive), foot models (with a belt) were produced in Soviet times.

Among the Soviet sewing machines, the most popular are those made in Podolsk, at a mechanical plant. The sewing machine "Seagull" is a favorite assistant of our craftswomen. She has earned a lot of trust. This device is reliable and easy to operate. It has a strong aluminum body, "takes" any fabric and is unpretentious in work.

Sewing machine "Seagull". We eliminate breakdowns

The sewing machine "Seagull" can serve its mistress for several decades. The main thing is to pay attention to damage in a timely manner, be able to eliminate them and periodically lubricate the mechanisms. The model range of devices is quite wide: this is the Chaika sewing machine -134, 132, 132 M, 142 M, 143 and others. Despite the diversity of species, operation and repair is carried out for almost all types in the same way.

Possible breakdowns of the "Seagull" and how to eliminate them

1. When working, the device skips stitches. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to check the condition of the needle - it should be even and not bent. It is necessary to inspect the needle before starting work, feeling it with your hand. In case of irregularities, it must be replaced with a new one. In this case, it should be borne in mind that only the needle that is suitable for a particular model of a sewing machine is used. The next step is to check if the needle enters the plate that is under it correctly. You can return the needle to its place by shifting the needle bar frame. Another reason for skipping stitches is incorrect placement of the shuttle when it hits the needle. If it is installed incorrectly, then during operation it will slip past without falling into the loop. To fix the problem, the shuttle must be corrected.

2. The needle breaks while sewing. This happens due to the incorrect location of the carriage cone. To repair the Chaika sewing machine, you need to remove the plywood on the side of the device. On the left is the shuttle mechanism, where the carriage is arranged. It is necessary to release it from the latch and turn the flywheel towards you. The pointy top of the carriage should be slightly above the eye of the needle and follow next to it. For the correct location, unscrew the two bolts on the axis of rotation of the carriage and carefully move it towards the needle.

3. Stitch defects when stitching. The sewing machine "Seagull" can give a weak or tight thread when working. The thread is adjusted with a screw. To do this, it must be tightened or loosened by turning it clockwise or vice versa. If this does not help, then you need to remove the plate on which the screw is attached, and bend it slightly inward. Other causes of weak stitching may be a broken upper thread tension knob or a loose nut. To fix this problem, you need to open the cover near the regulator and tighten the nut.

4. When the machine is running, the thread breaks. It is necessary to check the needle plate: it can be deformed, have punctures and bumps. The carriage may also have burrs. The entire marriage is removed by grinding with sandpaper.

The sewing machine "Seagull" in many cases is repaired at home, but if the breakdown is serious, you should seek help from the master.

Despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores, the Chaika sewing machine remains one of the most popular models of sewing machines for the home. At one time, Chaika had to be bought for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, only sometimes she winds. Otherwise, everything is fine. All parts of the machine are safe and sound and looks good so far.

Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Chaika sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the nodes are strong and reliable. Everything is made in the style of Soviet-era household appliances. But, for some reason, the seagull's line often winds, gaps appear in the stitch, the thread often breaks. Indeed, seagull sewing machines have a winding line
practically "from birth", gaps sometimes appear in the line, especially when performing a zigzag line and it knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.

The manufacturer includes instructions for the Chaika sewing machine, which details how to use the machine and perform various operations. There is even an electrical circuit of the electric motor, a pedal device. But here is not a word about how to set up and perform at least a small Seagull sewing machine repair. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give some recommendations on how to set up a Chaika sewing machine with your own hands.

Only a sewing machine like Singer or Podolsk can sew leather without problems. Watch this video and be sure subscribe to my channel.

Skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as breaking it from above and below are the main malfunctions of "Chaika" type sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch and, based on it, several types of finishing stitches.
Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others have the same device. Instructions for use and configuration for them is one common. Therefore, the repair and adjustment of these sewing machines is practically no different, with the exception of
zigzag copier repair. Depending on the model of the machine, one or another type of copier (the device responsible for performing the zigzag stitch) can be installed.

There are also differences in the setting of the shuttle parameters (depending on the model). But since our task is to learn how to adjust only the line, we will omit the repair of many components of the Chaika sewing machine. In addition, such repairs cannot be done by hand without professional knowledge and experience.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Detach the machine from the wooden stand. Disassemble the shuttle. Remove the bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, and lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment). Lubricate all moving parts with engine oil. For cleaning, use a hard small brush for glue, and it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe to lubricate the sewing machine.

3. Use needles designed only for Chaika household machines

Thread breakage happens quite often with Seagull-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass it is very convenient to inspect the condition of the needle point.
Use serviceable needles and intended only for household sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142.

The above adjustment parameters are suitable for all modifications of Chaika, Podolskaya sewing machines and are universal for almost all sewing household lockstitch machines. These recommendations can be used to repair sewing machines of other brands, including modern household sewing machines. The adjustments below apply only to Seagull type sewing machines.

8. Models of sewing machines Seagull have differences in the setting of the shuttle

If you set the above parameters for the interaction of the shuttle and the needle, set the needle exactly in the center, at the same time and replace it, adjust the thread tension, then the Chaika sewing machine will work relatively normally. But, unfortunately, the repair of the Chaika sewing machine is not over yet. There are still many other settings, quite complex and necessary, related to adjusting the position of the shuttle in relation to the needle. But not the gap between the nose and the blade, but the size of the nose behind the needle. It is in this parameter that the main reason for the looping of the thread from the bottom of the line and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines as a break in the lower thread is hidden. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the Chaika sewing machine, engineers have provided their own settings for this unit, and moreover, it requires a lot of experience.

We will deliberately not give detailed recommendations on how to set it up, since it is almost impossible to do them yourself. The master adjuster empirically selects one single position of the hook nose relative to the needle, varying between the appearance of three stitch defects: thread looping, lower thread breakage and upper thread breakage.
Briefly, we only note that the main position of the hook nose is adjusted in relation to the needle when it is in the left position, with the left injection, performing a zigzag stitch. Having passed the needle just above the eye, the nose should finish its movement and move further (to the left) behind the needle by 1-3 mm. This parameter is 1-3 mm for each Chaika model "its own" and it depends on it how the line will be formed. If the shuttle goes too far behind the needle, it pulls out the excess upper thread and loops appear, if the thread does not “reach”, the thread may break.

In order to change the position of the shuttle (the entry of the nose behind the needle), find in the extreme right part of the shaft that drives the shuttle, the bushing-lever connected to the main (upper) shaft. Loosen the fastening of the bushing tightened with the M10 screw with a wrench and turn the shaft a little while holding it with pliers. With the other hand you need to hold the flywheel.
Adjust the Seagull sewing machine so that with the left prick and the right prick (zigzag stitch), the shuttle nose confidently grabs the loop from the needle in both of these positions. If the machine still has stitching defects, then contact a sewing machine repairman.

How is the vertical shuttle. Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them. Shuttle of the sewing machine type Seagull.

The Podolsk sewing machine with a zigzag stitch is exactly the same as the Chaika sewing machine. Therefore, the repair and adjustment of these machines is practically no different. But the PMZ plant also has another model of a sewing machine. Lockstitch sewing machine with various drive options. How to repair such a sewing machine with your own hands is detailed in this article.

The Seagull sewing machine is very "sensitive" to various "little things". If the bobbin has notches on the walls, does not rotate well in the bobbin case, then this leads to stitch defects, and you will think that it is time to repair the sewing machine. In fact, it is enough to replace only the bobbin.

Modern sewing machines can be divided into 2 types: electronic and electromechanical (Chaika and others). There are many design differences between these types of sewing machines, but the main one, which is clear to everyone, is that on electronic models, home sewing machines perform an unlimited number of operations, due to the presence of an electronic control unit.

Start repairing the Seagull sewing machine by studying its device. Learn how a lockstitch is formed. Understand what parts of the machine can affect its operation and check what condition they are in. And only after detecting the alleged malfunctions, proceed to configure and adjust them.

The Seagull sewing machine is able to work flawlessly for many years if you follow the instruction manual, which indicates which fabrics it can sew, how to choose the right needle and thread for each type of fabric. Try to keep the Seagull sewing machine clean and lubricate periodically. Then for many years you will not need to configure and repair it.

Before us is a sewing machine of the late 20th century, manufactured by the Podolsk Plant named after. Kalinin. The machine, like previous models, is completely made of metal. Automation, as it was from 5 copiers, remained with the same number. True, almost 100% of the owners of the machine sewed in one position of the program selection knob.

Picture 1

Upper thread tension regulator(The thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2

Figure 2

After removing the top cover, we can see that all parts of the machine are the same as in class 142, see fig. 3:

1. Sewing program selection knob;
2. Stitch width setting knob;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. The body of the automation mechanism;
5. Copier pullers;
6. Copiers

Figure 3

On fig. 4 you can see the main difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser foot bar.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to correctly install with presser foot bar. We loosen screws 1 and 2 and set the foot relative to the slot of the needle hole and tighten the screws.
After loosening screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to sewing, do not forget that the tip of needle No. 100 should enter exactly into the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar, to do this, release two screws 7, press the washer to the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the height of the presser foot and the position of the needle bar, respectively.
Screw 6 fix the position of the thermometer. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in the car 142 class.

Figure 4

Figure 5 shows correct installation of the gear sector and the gear of the shuttle. The third gear tooth must fit between the first and second sector teeth.

Figure 5

The bottom of the car has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):

1. Guide;
2. Cam (lifting eccentric);
3. Stitch length regulator;
4. The lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Crank fastening screw (by loosening it, the stroke is adjusted);
7. Screw for fastening the reverse gear;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. Lower end of the fork;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the teeth of the fabric conveyor).

Figure 6

Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Handle for selecting the height of the lifting of the teeth of the conveyor;
2. Fastening screw, with its help the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Screws for fastening the lifting eccentric;
5. Eccentric lifting;
6. Fabric conveyor shaft;
7. Shuttle device;
8. Clamp clamp screw;
9. Toothed sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.

Figure 7

Adjustment of all nodes and parts, progress and advancement, elimination of backlash in the nodes is exactly the same as in class machines. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.