Homemade table for milling cutter. Milling table with your own hands. Build a solid foundation

It is more convenient and efficient to work with a manual router on a special table. Therefore, the owners of the instrument sooner or later think about buying a table or making it with their own hands.

Homemade design has a number of advantages, which you will learn about below.

Purpose of the milling table

example of a homemade milling table

A router is one of the essential tools for woodworking. With it, you can:

cut the spike fastening;
select a groove or groove;
grind the edges.

Some processes are inconvenient to do with a hand tool, because you need to hold the workpiece and the cutter at the same time. The table is a reliable support and fastener for a manual router, on which you can make accurate and high-quality products that are not inferior to factory ones. Making a stand according to ready-made drawings is easy.

Advantages of a homemade table for a manual router

Compliance of the price and quality of finished devices, as a rule, is unsatisfactory. The buyer is faced with a choice: a cheap wobbly Chinese workbench or a branded product at a fabulous price.
The dimensions of the homemade design will be optimal for a home workshop.
The functionality of the milling table and the number of additional devices depend only on the desire of the master.
Homemade design is easy to modify and improve.

Features of a homemade design

The type of table is the first thing you need to decide before making drawings and making a table with your own hands. The choice is between three options:

stationary: if the work is done in the workshop and the area allows it, this is the strongest and most reliable type of stand. Once set, the settings can not be changed for a long time. To move around the workshop, attach the wheels;
desktop: convenient for field and one-time work. A small table will fit in the pantry or on a shelf;
aggregate: attached to the side of a workbench or carpentry table.

Cutter fixture. The most convenient is to use a mounting plate installed in the countertop. The tool is attached to the plate from the underside and can be easily removed for replacement or repair of the cutter. You can make a mounting plate with your own hands from a small piece of sheet steel.

Materials. Many convenient and functional homemade products are made from scraps and waste: plywood, boards, timber, chipboard. As a material for the countertop, you can take thick plywood or chipboard, many choose MDF. Laminated is especially convenient - the surface is smooth, workpieces slide easily over it. Good for countertops are thick plastic, aluminum sheet.

Whatever material the countertop is made of, it should not bend during operation! If the table surface is large, consider additional stiffeners in the drawing.

Small cutting table

If the master uses a manual router infrequently, a compact table is suitable for him, which is rigidly fixed on the workbench. It is made with a side stop and an outlet for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

Materials required for work:

plywood No. 21;
PVA glue;
bars 50x50;
threaded pins - 2 pcs.;
wing nuts - 2 pcs.;
screws.

Instruments:

hacksaw;
a hammer;
screwdriver;
drill;
chisel;
clamps.

Work progress:

We make a table box with our own hands from plywood or a bar. You will have to tinker with plywood: it is glued together in two layers for strength: the cut parts are coated with PVA and fastened with clamps until completely dry. You need to prepare 4 such blanks.
In one of the bars of the base we cut out grooves for fastening to the workbench. There should be two.
Cut out a square of plywood according to the size of the future countertop. We mark the places of attachment and exit of the cutter.
We drill holes with a drill, countersink the holes for the screws to hide the heads.
On the screws with our own hands we assemble the construction of the box.
We make a mount for the side stop: these are two threaded pins on which the wing nuts will be screwed.
Let's make a side emphasis: two plywood rectangles that will be fastened with screws and a pair of stiffeners. We drill and countersink holes for screws, drill circles for the cutter and grooves for clamping.
We make a small box for connecting a vacuum cleaner, insert a pipe into it and attach it to the stop.
Now we press the emphasis on the lambs with our own hands to the tabletop and you can start milling.

Stationary table for router

Such a milling table is in no way inferior to factory models. To make it yourself, you need materials:

plywood;
chipboard cuttings;
bar 5x5 cm;
fasteners (self-tapping screws, bolts, hinges);
metal profile;
jack;
aluminum guides;
steel plate 6 mm;
saw carriage (guide).

Having picked up everything you need, we proceed to assemble the table with our own hands. First, we make the basis of the structure from scraps of boards, chipboard and plywood. The stand needs to be made rigid, so we cut out additional spacers from plywood. In the right sidewall we make a hole for the toggle switch, it will connect to the router.

The tabletop is made of chipboard, it is installed on hinges on one side and additionally rests on two racks, between which a manual milling cutter will be fixed. We cut the racks out of plywood, attach them to the tabletop with corners on the screws.
We make an emphasis-carriage for moving the part along the working surface. To do this, we cut a groove for metal guides and install them. The carriage will be a guide removed from a broken saw.
From chipboard we assemble a longitudinal stop so that you can set gaps around the tool, the stop must be mobile. Therefore, on top of the stop, we cut the grooves perpendicular to each other and attach the structure to the surface of the table. In the center we make a shallow recess to remove sawdust.
We collect boxes for connecting a vacuum cleaner, attach it behind the stop.
We prepare a platform for placing blanks: we select the top layer of chipboard equal to the thickness of the steel plate. We fasten the plate onto the screws. We countersink the holes for the screws so that the heads do not protrude. The plate must lie flush with the surface of the table, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work. A milling cutter will be attached to it from below.
We attach the hand mill to the bolts from the bottom of the steel plate.
We make an elevator for a manual router from a jack (automobile), which makes it possible to accurately change the height of the working router. We dismantle the handles of the router and replace them with aluminum guides, which we fix on the jack. The table is done and ready to use.

Usually, to perform some new work, new tools are required. As a programmer, I know this very well, since for many years I have to create libraries and write utilities for each new task. These are the very tools with which the solution of the following tasks becomes easier and easier. Probably so in many areas, except for those where you have to create everything from scratch, using only knowledge and skills. (Maybe that’s why I don’t really like, for example, to draw, that I’m used to using previous developments).

I finally finished my router table. (It took 7 evenings to create). At first I thought about buying a ready-made one, but those that I found for affordable money and suitable for my work did not suit me at all. And I decided to make it myself under the hand mill that I had Caliber FE-650E.

The milling table is a very useful needlework tool. I didn’t really think about it before, but if you look around in any house, you can see a lot of items that have been processed on a milling table: window frames, furniture doors, picture frames, wooden skirting boards, door frames, overlays and so on.

First, as usual, I modeled in a 3D program. I didn’t copy someone’s table, but developed a model for myself, having seen enough of ready-made similar milling tables on the internet. The idea is common, the essence is the same, the details are different, because everyone realizes for themselves, using what they have and what they are capable of.

The side stop has grooves-slots and can move back and forth and is fixed in the desired position by two lambs. A chip deflector is connected to the corner stop. (The milling cutter produces a lot of chips during operation) If required, the side stop can be easily removed and replaced with other devices or nothing at all.

The fence has two wings that can be moved apart and shifted depending on the size of the cutter. The position of each sash is fixed with lambs.

A conventional vacuum cleaner hose is connected to the chip deflector.

This router model did not have a fine depth adjustment. It was necessary to put pressure on the router and catch the desired depth with a latch. (It should be noted that this is terribly inconvenient. You have to suffer several times rearranging the depth to get to the right one)

Modified the frame by adding the so-called "elevator".

I drilled the bed and installed the adjusting screw with a high nut (in the picture in the center). By tightening the nut, you can smoothly adjust the depth.

This is how the depth is adjusted: the desired value is set on the square, and the cutter is raised with the key until it stops against the square.

The only remaining inconvenience is that this procedure requires two hands. It is necessary to press the depth lock on the router with one hand and turn the nut with the other. I have a solution, but haven't had time to implement it yet. When done, it will be possible to adjust the depth with one hand. And the clamp to hold the corner will no longer be needed.

Please note that the top of the side stand is specially designed to be able to attach various devices to it.

In general, there are ready-made platforms for the manufacture of milling tables on sale. There are holes with holes for some specific models of the router; there are universal ones in which you can drill holes for your model yourself. The platforms are quite expensive (1500-5000r) and are much larger in size than required for my mini-table.

I made my platform for the router from plexiglass (6mm), removing the native plastic platform from the frame of the router.

Fitting glass to a window.

First trials.

The stand for cutters is processed with a cutter, which is on the left. I also processed the slats with her

By the way, a cutter with a roller does not require a side stop. These can be used to process edges on a bare table, although it is more convenient to have one more point of support, especially when processing cylindrical workpieces.

What I have left to do:
- Cut out a pair of glasses to install cutters of a larger diameter.
- Make clamping fixtures that are installed on the side stop and tabletop, providing a tight clamp on the workpiece to the cutter.
- Improve the convenient key that regulates the depth of the cutter.
- Workpiece advance limiters (on the side stop).
- Special paws-pushers for the workpiece (The milling cutter is a dangerous tool. If I seriously damage my hands, it will be especially bad for me, because I will not be able to play most musical instruments after that).
- Special stop for working with edge cutters.
- Corner stop with a protractor, a device that allows you to move the workpiece at a certain angle using a rail.
- Slides for feeding the workpiece on the table at a right angle.
- Device for cutting "box connections".
- A trap-container for chips. (The vacuum cleaner's original bag clogs very quickly)
- Well, and some other little things.

I hope that this post will be found by those who may find it useful.

Other interesting posts about my homemade tools:

From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text outlines a step-by-step technology for creating a tool: an analysis of the design features of the device and all the components necessary for its installation, drawings with dimensions and detailed descriptions that will help you create each of these elements and put them together.

Wood milling machines can have various purposes. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Buying a professional tool is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, such a router is used in small furniture workshops.

Milling cutters are usually used to process wood along a straight or curved contour. The cutting head, which performs rotational movements, acts as a working element in the design. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many varieties of milling cutters, each of which has its own design features.

The most popular types of devices:

standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
copy milling machines with a spindle having an upper placement;
copy structures with a spindle having a horizontal placement (the tool is designed for processing propellers made of wood).

Note! In all of the listed designs, except for the last one, the material is fed manually.

Milling machine device: single-spindle designs

The design of a single-spindle machine includes a horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed to fix the guide rulers. It is mounted on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are sleds that move along the guides. They have a spindle on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element is another spindle - plug-in. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.

The slide with the spindle can be raised if necessary. For this, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. The belt drive allows the spindle to be driven. Moreover, a counter-drive, motor or motor shaft can be used for this.

To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the nuances. In some cases, you can not do without additional reinforcement of the spindle. Such a need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces of great height or serious loads act on the part. To do this, you need to install and fix the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is desirable to use a guide ring or ruler.

Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of woodwork with your own hands. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow you to get a higher quality of processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by cutting the wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. An instrument with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.

The device of a home-made copier for wood with an upper spindle

These devices are used to perform copying work. It does not require high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling to create openwork products.

The copier is able to replace three tools at once:

Frazier.
Drilling machine.
Jigsaw.

Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. The spindle develops a large number of revolutions, so that the machined surface is very clean.

Homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:

boss calibration;
production of openwork frames;
elaboration of the walls of the ribs, etc.

As a basis for this design, a bed made of cast iron is used. Its upper part is curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.

Note! The bed performs the function of a link on which all the elements of a home-made wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.

The engine is mounted on rails. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is fixed. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.

In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move along the guides vertically using a handwheel. There are other options for making a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands, a drawing of this design involves the vertical movement of the table also in the process of work by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology

The easiest way to make a tool yourself at home is to construct a lathe or milling machine from a drill or an electric motor taken from another tool. This process is not so complicated, so every master is able to cope with its implementation. This will require an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and improvised materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, some skills are required to make a lathe.

The following elements are required for the construction of the machine:

metal frame;
electric motor;
handyman;
back grandma.

It does not hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate in size and correctly manufacture all structural elements for its subsequent assembly.

How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor

First you need to prepare the shaft of the electric motor. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it, and a threaded steel center is also suitable. The installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. For the manufacture of the bed, you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. The motor is attached to the bed using a bolted connection.

Note! The central part of the tailstock must necessarily coincide with the middle of the motor shaft.

At the next stage in the manufacture of a home-made machine with your own hands, the headstock is assembled. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe is attached to it, designed for the spindle. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. Previously, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is indicated. After that, the headstock is installed on the bed. On the top rack, which is connected to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to fix the tube by welding.

To make a handpiece, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. Also, this element must have a hole that will be used to secure the reference ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the handpiece rod is inserted into it.

The motor rotor, on which the faceplate is fixed, will be used as the headstock spindle. It needs to make several holes. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are designed to fix the part with screws.

How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands

Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for the choice of designs and an overview of the best models.

The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:

countertops;
beds;
spindle
parallel stop;
feed sled;
vacuum cleaner.

Helpful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with lower performance will not be able to process hardwood blanks.

Selection of materials for the manufacture of a woodworking machine with your own hands

In order for the bed to be able to withstand high dynamic loads, it is desirable to use metal as a material for its manufacture. The most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.

The choice of such materials allows you to create a design without using a welding machine. All elements are connected by bolts. The design is collapsible, which facilitates its transfer and transportation. In addition, using the appropriate drawing of the milling table, you can create adjustable legs with your own hands. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.

For the manufacture of countertops, the following materials are suitable:

multilayer plywood sheets;
planed board;
MDF, OSB or chipboard.

The tabletop must have a smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to exclude all factors that can cause scratches during processing of workpieces.

When making a table for a router with your own hands, a flat surface can be achieved in several ways:

finishing with plastic;
careful adjustment and grinding of planed boards;
metal finishing.

To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Among the disadvantages is the high noise level. The commutator motor is more accessible, but its brushes wear out faster.

How to make do-it-yourself router bits

Homemade wood cutters are able to effectively process wood, however, when in contact with hard materials, the cutting elements quickly become dull. Therefore, the range of application of such parts is significantly limited.

To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical blank and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After that, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. From the cut part of the workpiece, you need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the processed section of the cutter a rectangular shape. To do this, cut off its lower part. The thickness of the resulting working area should be 2-5 mm.

Helpful advice! To cut a metal workpiece for a cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. The cutting edge can be made with .

It is desirable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10 °. A sharper edge will cut much worse and quickly lose sharpness.
Using an angle grinder equipped with metal discs, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the necessary configuration. For these purposes, diamond-coated needle files are also suitable.
If the cutter has a complex configuration, you can flatten or bend it.

How to make a milling machine with your own hands

The simplest milling machine can be made in the same way as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the design.

In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if necessary.

In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the processed workpieces is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, you can make a special cartridge, although in this case it will not be possible to avoid some restrictions.

The back center, which will be used to hold long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tools are similar in many ways. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.

Do-it-yourself table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings

There are several design options that can be used to install a desktop CNC router. Tables can be fixed or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the surface of the table for the use of a router.

Most often, craftsmen prefer stationary structures with a metal frame. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.

Note! When making a table for a manual router with your own hands, you must definitely take into account the height of the person who will work on it.

The list of necessary tools and materials includes:

metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
aluminum guides;
axis for fixing the router;
putty, as well as priming and coloring compositions;
self-tapping screws;
furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
hex adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
Finnish laminated plywood with moisture resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
material for the manufacture of a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
drill and a set of drills;
screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
welding machine;
accessories (brushes, rags, spatula).

Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of the milling table with your own hands, video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the net, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.

Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly

A CNC milling cutter differs from a conventional tool by the presence of a program that controls its operation. In many videos, home-made machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular section, which is fixed on rails. The CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints, it is better to fix it with bolts.

The fact is that the welds are vulnerable to vibration, due to which, over time, the frame will undergo gradual destruction. As a result of changing the geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and quality of processing. It is desirable that the drawing of the table provides for the possibility of moving the tool vertically. For these purposes, a screw drive is suitable. The rotational movement will be transmitted by means of a toothed belt.

The vertical axis is the most important structural element. For its manufacture, you can use an aluminum plate. At the same time, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.

Helpful advice! Using a muffle furnace, it is possible to cast a vertical axis from aluminum, taking into account the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper type electric motors. They are installed behind the vertical axis directly on the body. One motor will control the horizontal movement of the milling head, the other will control the vertical movement. Then you need to proceed to the installation of the remaining components of the structure.

The rotational movement will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before you connect software control to the finished router, you must definitely check its performance and, if there are any shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble the machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.

Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

To create a CNC milling machine at home, it is imperative to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. To create a homemade machine, the electric motors present in a dot matrix printer are ideal. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to engines, steel rods will be required.

A dot matrix printer has only a couple of motors, but three are required to create a router. Therefore, several old printing devices will be required. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. This increases the functionality of the tool.

Other engine parameters are also important:

degree of rotation per step;
winding resistance;
voltage level.

To assemble the drive, you will need a stud and nut. The size of these parts is selected according to the drawing. To fix the motor shaft and the stud, you can use a thick rubber winding from an electrical cable. A nylon sleeve is suitable as a retainer, a screw should be inserted into it. As an auxiliary tool, you can use a drill and a file.

The instrument will be controlled by the software. An obligatory element of the machine is the LPT port, which provides the connection of the control system to the router through electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the technological operations performed. Therefore, the choice of details should be approached thoroughly. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.

How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices

If almost any craftsman can handle the manufacture of a manual router and a stationary table, then assembling a CNC machine will seem an impossible task for many. Moreover, home-made designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-made tool can offer.

Helpful advice! If you plan to use a router for complex woodworking, it is better to give preference to factory designs that are accurately calibrated and have many functions.

Prices for them vary depending on the functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.

Average prices for factory-made CNC milling machines:

Machine name	Table length, mm	price, rub.
LTT-K0609 (LTT-K6090A)	900	228970
WoodTec MH-6090		246780
LTT-P6090		329120
R.J.1212	1300	317000
WoodTec MH-1212		347350
RUIJIE RJ 1200		399200
WoodTec MH 1325	2500	496350
WoodTec MH-1625		540115
WoodTec VH-1625		669275
RJ 2040	3000	1056750
WoodTec VH-2030		1020935
WoodTec VH-2040		1136000

Assembling a machine with software is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without a suitable drawing and the necessary details. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from legacy equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.

Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instruction

The milling table will facilitate your work and help to increase the accuracy of processing workpieces. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a router table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you a fairly detailed step-by-step instruction for making a table.

The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and execute it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.

Decide on the size of the work surface, starting from the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small by building a simple countertop with upgradeability in mind. Work on it and gradually bring to mind.

Make a tabletop

The simplest table for a milling cutter is a separate work plate, placed on carpentry goats or between cabinets. The fixture costs a penny and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. You only need MDF or birch plywood 19-25 mm thick. A plastic-coated panel is better suited, which has less friction resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation.

Set the exact right angle of the cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to the dimensions and grind the ends.

Cutting pattern: 1 - main plate; 2 - stop base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness of the sheet material, which often differs from the standard. Make adjustments to the drawings, eliminating problems during assembly of the structure.

Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router.

Draw a line in the middle of the slab and mark 235 mm from the edge.

Place the overlay so that the router's main controls are next to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the lining with the marked point and mark the places for drilling the holes for the mounting screws.

Determine the center location for the sole with equidistant screws.

For a base with asymmetrical screws, measure the diameter of the rubber and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.

Draw a line with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:

S=D/2-(D-H)

Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.

Mark the mounting screw locations.

Drill mounting holes and under the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.

Cut out the bends with an electric saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly leading to the marking line. Then lead the file a little closer to the contour line - the pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.

Fasten the connecting strips from the bottom of the tabletop.

Glue all the blanks and fasten with additional screws. Pick up screws longer than the regular ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router at the bottom of the slab.

1 - side bar for fastening with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

Fix the table on the goats with clamps, fix the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.

Build a solid foundation

The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. A portable table is stored on a rack, and is fixed on a workbench for work. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the table top and get a full-fledged machine.

Cut the cabinet pieces to the dimensions given for the 820mm high table or modify them so that the tabletop is level with other equipment .

Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base

Lay the tabletop upside down. Install side panels in sequence and fasten them with screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Fasten the base, lay the frame face down, align the square corners and install the two back panels.

At the end, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the hull using roofing screws. Position the wheel mounting pads at least 20 mm from the edges.

1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - internal rack; 5 - rear panel

Use free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.

Insert mounting plate

Get a longer cutter overhang by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinaks or solid polycarbonate.

Cut out a 300 mm square from the sheet, put it on a workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. With a drill of the same diameter as the fixing screws, drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template. Remove the sole, make recesses for the caps with a countersink or a large drill.

Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the body of the tool until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and make a hole according to the mark with a hole saw.

Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through the drilled hole. Trim the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.

Fix the thin boards around the marked contour with clamps.

Clamp the copy cutter with bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer regulator of the router and make the final pass.

Drill through holes for the screws and widen them from the back of the worktop with a 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts on the epoxy, leveling with the screwed bolts.

Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, lay it in place, drill the fixing holes and countersink from the front. Attach the part to the sole of the router, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the tabletop plane, if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.

Improve your focus

For faster and more convenient setup of the machine, modify the parallel side stop and complete the machine with a rotary stop, which helps to process the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum guides with a T-profile into the surface of the plate. To make cutouts in the countertop, use a router or a circular saw with a slotted disc.

Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, process them with a countersink. Insert the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the countersunk screws.

Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, pick up hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop to secure the clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.

Cut out a plywood cover with a hole in the center, fasten it to the scarves located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the milling table.

Add a safety shield to the stop, made from plywood trim and a strip of plexiglass.

To make oblong cuts, drill 7 mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangentially and make cuts with a jigsaw.

Make homemade clamps and clamps needed for milling small elements.

A comb press can be made from maple wood, choosing a straight-grained area. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular machine:

Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
Set the cutting width to 2mm.
Make a cut.
Pull the workpiece back with the manual pusher.
Turn the board 180°, saw through the other side.
Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
Move the fence back again and make cuts all over the workpiece.

Secure the clamps to the rail with bolts and wing nuts.

1 - stopper; 2 - clamp-comb; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - nozzle for a vacuum cleaner

Sand the surfaces of parts, especially in places where workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat with oil.

1 - drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop

Summing up the project

Materials needed:

Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
Several dozen screws.
Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake — 4 pcs.
Glue joiner's and epoxy.
Bolts M6 with nuts.

The ability to take your time and think through every step, accurately mark and cut blanks, or the desire to learn this, came in handy. The result is a solid milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a milling height adjustment mechanism.

Having received a garden plot, I started carpentry. After 10-15 years, I have accumulated a collection of power tools in my workshop, numbering 27 items. A special place in it is occupied by a manual milling machine, which enables an amateur carpenter to make professional objects of good quality from wood. With its help, it is possible to quickly and accurately profile edges and make connections. However, it soon became uncomfortable to work with a milling machine as a hand tool.

I first felt the need to have a milling machine when I was making a wooden grate for a bath: I had to make 40 oval planks. I had to build a simple milling table. I installed a chipboard sheet with a hole in the middle on a metal frame, attached an old milling machine to a 10 mm plywood sheet and fixed it to the chipboard - the milling table is ready. It was convenient to work with him, but soon I wanted better.

Having studied a dozen and a half sites of do-it-yourselfers, I realized that it is possible to make a very good milling machine, moreover, in a budget version. Started with project development.

The main dimensions of the machine were determined by two products I have: a metal frame picked up from a landfill and a 2050 W SPARKY X 205CE hand mill.

Do-it-yourself milling table for a router: drawings

The classic milling machine, made on the basis of a manual router, consists of six main elements: a bed 1, a worktop 2, a mounting plate 3, a manual router 4, a lift 5 that allows you to adjust the cutter overhang, and a longitudinal stop 6.

Milling table top

A mounting plate is used to mount the router on a tabletop. Attaching the router to the insert plate has two advantages over attaching it directly to the underside of the table top. Firstly, the plate saves 6-10 mm of cutting depth compared to mounting the router to a cover with a thickness of 20 mm or more. Secondly, the plate makes it easy to remove the router for changing tools.

For making mounting plate (Fig. 2) I used a 10 mm lavsan textolite sheet. The location of the mounting holes from the sole of the router was transferred to paper, and from paper to the plate. I made a hole d61 mm in the center of the plate and milled a fold in it for installing interchangeable liners for a specific cutter.

Cut the table top to size. I marked out the necessary holes, grooves and an opening for the mounting panel according to the drawing. Cut out the opening with a jigsaw.

Prepared guide bars for the copy cutter. The height of the bars should be such that the copy cutter with the upper bearing is in constant contact with them when processing the rebate.

I installed the mounting plate on the countertop, secured two long bars with clamps and attached two short ones to them using a stapler (photo 7). To ensure a guaranteed gap between the fold and the mounting plate, I used thin spacers 0.2 mm thick on each side.

For reliability, I attached the short guide bars to the long ones using small squares.

Removed the plate and gaskets. I installed a copy cutter with an upper bearing in the collet of the router. Leaning the sole of the router on the guide bars, set the milling depth of 2 mm in the tabletop. I made a few shallow cuts, increasing the overhang of the cutter until it reached a depth of 0.5 mm more than the thickness of the mounting plate.

He took off the copy bars. I cleaned the edges of the fold and opening with the help of a skin.

Using the mounting plate as a template, I drilled mounting holes in the corners. On the reverse side of the tabletop, I installed mortise furniture nuts into the mounting holes.

I milled three grooves for aluminum guides using a 19 mm cutter, which I fixed in the grooves with self-tapping screws. The tabletop of the milling machine is ready.

Elevator for milling table

The next node of the milling machine, which deserves special attention, is the mechanism for feeding the cutter into the cutting zone, or the elevator. The cost of a professional elevator sold in stores reaches 50-60 thousand rubles. This is a high-precision and convenient mechanism, but for the purposes of amateur carpenters, it is, of course, redundant.

When developing my own elevator design, I set myself the goal of using the maximum number of purchased parts. The easiest way to solve the problem of the translational movement of the milling spindle is with the help of a pair of screw / nut: when the nut is fixed from axial movements, the screw performs translational movement.

The design of the elevator is shown in figure 4. As a moving element, I used a M16 bolt 200 mm long. For support, I used a long M16 nut, which I welded to a steel plate. The bolt is driven by a handwheel attached to it through a welded support washer.

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