Tips for choosing studded tires (bicycle tires) for a bicycle. Watch YouTube video. How to make winter tires on a bike Spikes on a bike

When cycling through mud and snow, you often have to overcome places where it is difficult even to walk. It is for crossing impassable off-road that studded tires are needed on a bicycle.

By the number of studs, bicycle tires should be chosen depending on where you will ride most often. If in the city, where the roads are more or less cleared, then a minimum of spikes on a bicycle tire, located in two rows, is enough. The choice is simple: the more mud and ice on the road, the more spikes should be.

It is important to know that after changing summer tires to studded tires, the overall weight of the bike increases. This is not surprising, because the spikes are made of metal and there are many of them, although they are small.

Steel spikes

Studded bike tires are primarily distinguished by the presence of steel hooks. On one tire, from 100 to 400 spikes are installed. They are assembled from two parts: a cup with a flange and a carbide pin. Glasses are stamped from mild steel or aluminum. They are needed to secure the pin in soft rubber. The pins are made from an iron alloy with tungsten carbide (WC) and an admixture of niobium and titanium carbides (NbC, TiC). Such an alloy is known as "win". It will take at least 4 winters on cleared roads to completely wear out the Pobedite spikes.

The pins are wedge-shaped for installation in cups with a fit. They can be flat topped for mud riding or pointed for good grip on ice.

Over time, flat and pointed pins acquire the same rounded shape. When driving on paved roads, there is practically no difference in wear rate between the two types of studs. A large difference in wear rate between different studs is observed when traveling on the ground. Sharp spikes wear out faster when driving on the ground, due to greater penetration into the ground. But they hold better on ice and packed snow.

Low temperature compound

Real winter tires for a bicycle are not made of rubber at all, as it hardens in the cold to the elasticity of plastic. And the tire must have good grip on frozen ground or rolled snow and ice. Tires for winter are made of a compound - a material that retains elasticity and elasticity at sub-zero temperatures. They are marked "W" or "Winter". Like all soft rubber tires, they tend to self-clean.

On products, the presence of the compound is indicated by the marking "Winter". The Nokian company, which changed its name to Suomityre, adopted the marking "Winter rubber 58A", where 58 is the hardness index of the compound. The manufacturer uses a base compound labeled "SBC".

Double row and multi-row

Studded tires are divided into two types: double-row, multi-row. The style of cycling depends on the number of rows of spikes on the tire.

On two-row ice, you need to drive at a lower speed. Especially if the rows of spikes on them are spaced far apart. These tires are designed for fast skiing in winter on the road surface. Their side studs work best when cornering. And before leaving on the ice, you need to dismount and reduce the pressure in the chambers so that the spikes installed far from each other can bite into the ice layer.

Double-row tires with studs close to the center line are universal for driving on asphalt roads and ice. But they cannot move as fast along the road as on a two-row with far-spaced spikes. There are reviews that say that during sudden braking, obviously on asphalt, pins break out of them along with glasses.

Two-row tires are cheaper than multi-row tires and a little lighter, because they have less iron installed on them. Of course, you need to ride on ice on these bike tires more carefully than on multi-row spikes. Without making sharp turns and without sudden braking.

Four-row winter tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker HS 333. Available in one size - 26×2.10 inches. It has 304 spikes, weighs 1 kg. Price - $118

Schwalbe Snow Stud HS 264 double-row tire with wide-spaced studs. Available in one size - 26×1.90 inches. Has 102 spikes, weighs 980 grams. Price - $78

Two-row Suomityres (Nokian) Stud A10 with widely spaced studs. Available in four sizes: 26x1 1/2x2 - 62 studs, 26x1.5 - 100 studs, 28x1.5 - 76 studs, 28x1 5/8x1.5 - 74 studs

Tire for city and touring bikes Suomityres Hakkapeliitta W106 with narrowly mounted studs. Available in 26" and 28" diameters, 26×1.9, 28×700×45C, 700×35C. It has 106 spikes, as indicated by the marking. Relatively inexpensive - $50

A two-row Schwalbe Winter city tyre, with narrowly spaced studs. Available in four sizes: 26×1.75, 700×30C, 700×35C, 700×40C. Depending on the size, it has from 100 to 120 spikes. Weighs about 1 kg. Price - $59

Folding, tubeless tires

Now the technology for manufacturing folding tires (folding) is used, in which the cord is wound not with metal wire, but is woven from Kevlar thread.

On sale there are two "cool" studded tires and the only folding ones in their structure. They can be installed on a rim without a tube using a special adhesive.

Four-row folding spike Suomityres WXC300. Has a size of 26×2.2. The lightest tire in its class - weighs 750 grams. It has 304 spikes

Five-row tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro HS 379. Available in several versions: 26 × 2.10 - 361 spikes, 26 × 2.35 - 361 spikes, 29 × 2.10 - 402 spikes. Depending on the size, it weighs only 695, 850, 890 grams. The highest price is $168

Tread design

If you carefully compare the tread patterns of many tires, you can see a pattern. There are two types of protectors:

1. positive - the total area of ​​the lugs is equal to or greater than the area of ​​the furrows;
2. negative - the lugs are high and occupy a smaller area compared to the total area of ​​the furrows.

Road tires have a positive tread. In addition, it forms a smooth treadmill along the longitudinal axis. For example: the Continental Nordic Spike cross tire, with a tread pattern characteristic of mountain bikes, has an additional chain of lugs along the axis of the treadmill.

Cross studded tire Continental Nordic Spike. Has a size of 28×1.6. It is supplied in two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Weighs 850 or 900 grams. Cost - $75

Urban four-row spike Schwalbe Marathon Winter HS 396. Available in sizes: 20×1.60, 24×1.75, 26×1.75, 26×2.00, 700×35C, 700×40C, 28×2.00. Depending on the size, it weighs from 900 to 1300 grams. Price - $87

For rough terrain with deep snow or mud, tires should have a negative tread so they don't get clogged with mud and can dig into hard ground.

Tire for off-road Nokian Extreme. Available in two sizes: 26×2.1 and 29×2.1. It has 294 spikes in six rows.

Off-road tire Continental Spike Claw. Produced in size 26×2.1. May have two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Can weigh 840 or 900 grams. Price - $70

Universal studded tire Innova 26 IA. Has a size of 26 × 2.10, equipped with 268 spikes in four rows

The Innova 26 IA bike tire is versatile because it has a negative tread structure, but the angled lugs form a straight treadmill.

Tire width

A narrower tire is more profitable to put on movement in deep snow. It will quickly cut through the layer of snow to a dense base. A wide tire, when driving through snow, will hang in the thickness, not having time to rest against the base, the wheel will begin to crawl around.

Narrow tires allow you to move on a higher layer of snow. In reality, on snow cover above 10-15 cm it is impossible to ride a bicycle with any tires. A person gets tired very quickly during prolonged work with increased load. Turning in deep snow will be another impossible task.

The widest possible tire is needed for driving on snowy crust, trodden paths and winter roads, as well as for overcoming deep mud.

Homemade spike

You can stud any tire, but one made of soft rubber is much more preferable - in it, home-made hooks will hold on tighter. Everyone can make studded tires at home, but it will be much heavier and more unreliable than a factory product.

1. It is necessary to buy self-tapping screws for metal: hardened with a flat, low head.
2. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the lugs. It is convenient to screw in the self-tapping screw immediately after the hole is made.
3. Holes are best drilled with a small drill with a diameter of 2 mm, at high speeds of the drill. In a cut hole, rubber does not experience overstress when stretched with a self-tapping screw, as in a hole pierced with an awl.
4. The ends of all self-tapping screws sticking out must be cut to a height of 4 mm above the rubber surface.
5. It is important to make a gasket to protect the camera from rubbing. It can be cut from the old chamber, spread along the inner radius. And you can close the heads of the self-tapping screws with protective Kevlar or insulating lavsan adhesive tape.

Do not forget that any, even homemade, studded tire needs to be run in so that the studs take up a working position in the rubber. You just need to drive a distance of 40-50 km on a hard road surface, with reduced pressure in the chamber. After that, you can storm the winter roads and mud swamps.

Bicycle lovers often do not get off them in winter. Anyone who has ever tried to drive on ice will appreciate the advantages of studded tires. Only here the price bites on it. For a normal studded tire they ask from 1000 UAH. Here we reviewed the famous Nokian WXC-300.

What if you make it yourself? Why not. We will make studded tires on a bicycle with our own hands.

We take a certain amount of banknotes and go to a bicycle shop. You can read reviews of some stores here.

We choose an inexpensive one so that it would not be a pity to throw it away if something does not work out as planned. But at the same time, it should be wide enough and with a large tread.

Then we go to the hardware store and buy flat head screws. Their length depends on the tread depth on the tires. It is necessary that the end of the screw protrude by 1-2 millimeters. I chose these as in the photo. Bought two sizes 10 and 12 mm. What later did not regret (I'll tell you later).

In general, you need to measure the thickness of the tire before buying spikes. How to do it? The easiest way is to pierce the tire with an awl at the future location of the spike and measure the awl. But I realized after returning from the hardware store.

Next, we pierce the holes at the locations of the spikes with the same awl. These places can be peeped on branded spikes. The puncture is best done from the outside, this allows you to clearly see where the tip of the spike will come out later. And screw in the screws. I repeat that they should protrude 1-2 mm from the tire.

Since I had two sizes of screws, I screwed the longer ones on the sides. What later did not regret. They are good for cornering. The main thing is not to touch the fork.

Thus, about 100 spikes go to one tire (depending on how often you put them). This slightly increases the weight of the tire, but for a budget option, this is not a big deal.

Then, a gasket must be laid inside the tire between the screw heads and the chamber so that the heads do not rub against the chamber. It can easily be cut out of an old camera. But still it is better that the gasket was made of a harder material. For example, there is an idea to make it out of leather. Cut old shoes or boots)

Well, actually, everything can be put on studded tires and go to test. I rode this one for two seasons. Flight is normal.

Cyclists who want to continue to ride comfortably even in cold weather should consider changing their steel horse's regular tires to studded ones. Special protectors for winter are sold, which are equipped with steel spikes. However, they are expensive, about 1000-2500 rubles, do-it-yourself tire studding will be much cheaper. This is not as difficult as it might seem right away, and you will only need to buy self-tapping screws, good glue. Naturally, regular tires will also be needed.

Spike selection

To upgrade tires, self-tapping screws are selected, which are designed to be screwed into metal holes. The optimal length is 14 mm, and their hat should be wide and with rounded edges. Such self-tapping screws are also good because they have a wide tip, so they will wear out more slowly.

Choice of studded tread

To do it yourself for a bicycle, it is better to choose tires with the thickest rubber, which is designed for snow and ice. This will allow you to convert the tire so that it is universal: for snow, ice and asphalt. Rubber should not be too hard to better cling to the surface. You should not equip the protector with self-tapping screws too thickly, because they will not hold on smooth stones or tiles. And if you insert too few spikes, their tenacity will not be enough on the ice, so it's worth finding a middle ground. It is necessary that the protrusions on the tread alternate: one with a metal spike, the other without it. Do-it-yourself tire studding should not be carried out only in the center of the tire, it is very important that there are self-tapping screws from the sides. After all, cornering stability is much more difficult to maintain. For this reason, the side parts must be equipped with metal spikes thicker than the center. This symmetry will allow you to ride comfortably on any surface. About 140 self-tapping screws are needed per tread to ensure good grip on any surface.

The method of installing screws on the protector

So, preparations for winter are underway, with their own hands. To begin with, the tread pattern is inspected. It is necessary to decide in which protrusions the screws will need to be screwed so that their location is symmetrical. This is very important, because if you place somewhere more, and somewhere less spikes, then the grip will be uneven, which will significantly impair movement.

After it is decided which protrusions need to be equipped with spikes, they are marked so as not to make a mistake in the sequence, after which they are drilled. It is convenient to do this with an electric drill, and it is better to choose a drill twice as thin as self-tapping screws.

Tread drilling

The tire is drilled from the outside, laying it for convenience on a wooden board. When all the holes are made, the bike begins with your own hands. The spikes must be screwed in from the inside of the tread. Before that, we take pliers with which it will be convenient to take self-tapping screws. Then we dip them in glue to the cap, insert them into the hole and screw them in with a screwdriver. Many people use screwdrivers, but for starters it is better to use a regular screwdriver until all the actions start to work automatically. As for the glue, any rubber, for sticking the camera, or the usual "Moment" will do just fine.

The self-tapping screw must be mounted carefully, although it is screwed into the pilot hole, it can still come out not where expected. In this case, it is unscrewed and installed correctly. Indeed, the grip with the surface depends on the angles at which the spikes will be located in relation to the ground. Thus, tire studding passes around the entire circumference, with your own hands, at home, without any special tools. The central spikes should protrude 2 mm above the rubber, this is the optimal size for high-quality grip on the surface. If any exceed this size, then they need to be shortened with wire cutters. The side studs can protrude up to 4mm because they don't touch the ground when riding in straight sections, but only engage in corners.

Camera Puncture Protection

After all the metal components are installed and securely tightened, you can begin to protect the camera from the heads of the self-tapping screws. To do this, you can use a nylon tape or any other, as long as it is as stiff as possible. Or cut the old camera into strips of the desired width. The main thing is that all hats are closed, in order to avoid contact with the camera.

Bonding a protective pad between the tube and the studded tire

In principle, some do not stick a protective tape, but for reliability it is better to do this so that the studding of the wheels with your own hands turns out to be of high quality, and during the ride the self-tapping screws do not pierce the camera. If the glue is quick-drying, then it is better to cut the tape into pieces and stick them in turn. In a word, you need to glue the caps of the self-tapping screws from the inside.

Many, for better bonding of all parts, when they are connected, lay the inside with polyethylene and insert the chamber, after which they pump it up. Thus, everything fits snugly and is leveled. In this form, the protector is allowed to dry, and the polyethylene prevents the camera from sticking. The next day, when everything is dry, you can collect the wheel.

What changes occur when driving after a do-it-yourself studded bicycle tire is installed?

The first is the weight of the tire. It can be calculated based on the fact that one screw weighs around 2 grams (plus glue). Weight becomes more by about 400-600 grams, but again, everything is individual. For this reason, the speed drops by 2-3 km / h. A little more tire noise, but it depends more on the surface that is under the wheels. And, of course, the appearance of the tread is more toothy and predatory.

However, all the shortcomings are nothing compared to the advantages that do-it-yourself wheel studding provides. The first is the price, this option is much cheaper than branded rubber. The second is that the size of the metal spikes and their location can be clearly tailored to your needs. And do not hope that the purchased tire will meet the necessary requirements.

Well, now about the skating itself

Even when riding on open ice, the bike rolls like it's on asphalt. No skidding occurs, even when cornering. You can easily go up the hill, where the children made themselves a skating rink, filling it with water, the adhesion occurs, as in the summer. It also goes great in the snow. As for asphalt and slippery stones, it all depends on how the spikes are located. Many, knowing that they will ride in the winter mainly around the city, do not put screws on the middle row at all. But if there is still such a need, then they should not stick out of the rubber by more than 2 millimeters. In general, do-it-yourself studding of winter tires is justified, and its advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

Do both wheels need to be studded?

When winter is very changeable, and snowfalls are replaced by slush, only the front wheel can be spiked. It is responsible for handling, but the load on it is much less. Therefore, the spikes will not wear out very much if you drive, for example, on bare asphalt. When the rear wheel skids on ice, it is not as dangerous as the front wheel. In general, do-it-yourself studding of winter tires provides more opportunities than a finished product. However, if there is money for branded protectors, and they meet all the requirements, then, of course, it is more convenient to purchase them.

Having covered the tires with metal spikes once, the cyclist will know exactly what to change in the next models. The whole difficulty of the first choice lies in the fact that there is no unequivocal answer to the question of what spikes should be and how many to screw them in. It all depends on the specific terrain. However, as practice shows, if such wheels are needed not for a highly specialized sports discipline, then it is better to make universal ones.

So, the article describes how do-it-yourself tire studding is carried out, and what you should pay attention to. This method is the most versatile, and is suitable for any coating. Having made the tread studding in this way, it will be possible to understand more clearly in the future what to change for better grip in a particular riding area. One thing can be said for sure: that rubber, in which metal spikes are installed, will always be better in frost than one that is not equipped with them.

In order to be able to enjoy cycling also in winter, it is important to have spikes. Do-it-yourself winter tires for a bicycle will help out in this situation. It will cost the owner much cheaper than the purchased one, and in terms of clutch quality it can even surpass the factory options.

There are three main ways to do it yourself:

1. Screwing self-tapping screws into a tire with a large tread.
2. Using bolts for rubber with a fine tread.
3. Chains for bicycles without rim brakes.

Method 1

For this method, you need to have tires with a deep tread, an awl, short flat-head screws, an old tube and Moment glue.

Initially, it is necessary to pierce holes in all rubber lugs with an awl. Depending on the type of tire, there can be from 100 to 350 of them. After that, glue all the puncture points on the inside with glue. It is better to use transparent Moment glue so that you can clearly see where to screw the spike.

After the work with the glue is completed, you should screw the screws with their heads inside the tire, and with the threads out. The final winter tire will look like a malignant porcupine, and it will be a little difficult to put it on the rim.

When using this method, it is important to protect the camera from being exposed to the heads of the self-tapping screws. It is very convenient to use an old camera for this. It should be cut along and, as it were, wrapped around a slightly inflated whole chamber.

The opinions of the masters regarding the length of such homemade spikes are somewhat different. Some believe that using 13 mm self-tapping screws, 7–8 mm will remain at the output, and this is the best option, given that over time they will wear off somewhat from interaction with ice, trampled snow and asphalt. Others believe that all the spikes need to be turned right away, leaving only 5 mm and making them less sharp.

Method 2

Let's figure out how to do it if the rubber has a small tread. To do this, you will need bolts and nuts suitable for them, a screwdriver or drill, as well as special adhesive tape. The bolts should be short, and the nuts should be wide but low (less than 1 cm).

Initially, it is necessary to drill all the holes for future spikes. Unlike the first method, it is important to do this between the rubber grouser. The holes should be smaller than the diameter of the bolt, then the spikes will sit tight and will not fall inward.

When all the holes are ready, you can start screwing the bolts. Their hats should be inside the tire, and the nuts should be twisted on the outside and act as spikes. After all the hardware has taken its place, the tire from the inside must be glued with special adhesive tape. This is necessary so that the metal parts do not push through and thereby spoil it.

Method 3

Winter tires for a bicycle with metal chains can also be made by hand. This method is easier and faster, but is only suitable for models without rim brakes.

You will need chains, wire, steel clips, nuts and bolts. Initially, the girth of the rim and tire is measured, and the chain is cut into pieces of the obtained parameter. Then the prepared segments are attached to the wheel at regular intervals with a wire or steel clip. You can also tighten it with bolts and nuts.

Having learned how to make winter tires on a bicycle, it is important to understand that modification activities will take a lot of time.

You can combine the methods described above. If you wind a chain on the front wheel and equip the rear wheel with spikes made of self-tapping screws and bolts, then you get just a great option that will prevent slipping even when cornering and provide high-quality braking.

In winter, it is not important. This will give you extra grip on the road.

You cannot independently install spikes on tires already 27 mm and on those that are used without a camera.

In conclusion, I would like to add that such independent tire changes may not always be effective. In heavy ice, it is better to change transport to a safer one.

So, it's winter in the yard ... (although, now, in the winter of 2006/07, sometimes it doesn't seem so). Sooner or later, every cyclist actively (and not occasionally) riding in the winter will have a thought: why not get hold of studded tires? And the more painful and unpleasant the reasons that gave rise to this thought, the sooner it will reign supreme in the head of a cyclist ... The cycling culture is slowly moving from the West to our dense steppes, and after it the merchants have followed, driven by the truth well known since school times - “demand creates supply” – in pursuit of our hard-earned banknotes. Now it is no longer a problem to buy factory-made studded tires in Kazan, unlike the winters of six or seven years ago - you just need to hurry up in time. In sports shops in Kazan, one could even see a certain variety of studded tires: as many as 3-4 different models from 2-3 manufacturers. However, at the moment, there remains some incompleteness of the problem of providing everyone with studded bicycle tires ...

First, studded tires were imported just a little. What was in stores quickly sold out by the season - and some of those who wanted to buy this rubber failed to do this ... Secondly, the choice of models is still small - mainly budget models were brought in, with a small number of spikes, it seems to me, due to the still insufficient development of the winter cycling subculture. And finally - about the despicable metal. The cost of a set of factory tires for both wheels could easily have been on the order of the monthly salary of a university teacher or other state employees. Se la vie...

So, studded tires are needed - but not everyone gets them. Conclusion - let's do it ourselves. The method of tire studding presented here is not my invention, in addition, on the net you can find a number of descriptions of studding both by the presented method (using screws) and some others. However, it seems useful to describe the whole procedure in detail again, with a sufficient number of illustrations to accompany the text.

1. The first task to be solved is finding the right tire. Requirements for a potential victim of vivisection:

Hard rubber, since when braking on ice, depending on the tread pattern, usually no more than 8-10 spikes work - respectively, and the load will fall on 8-10 tread elements (hereinafter referred to as "buns").

The "buns" themselves should be as large as possible so that there is enough rubber around the screw to hold it.

The tread pattern should satisfy your ideas about the optimal placement of the studs.

To illustrate the studding process, the following tire was chosen when writing this text (original appearance):

The tire was produced by a nameless Chinese company world famous for its level of quality, producing its products under the brand name "SUPERDIAMOND":

The tread pattern of the purchased tire is as follows:

It has the following comments:

the "buns" are somewhat small and, as it will become clear later, for screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm, selected for studding, with careless studding, a rather small rubber "side" holding them will remain;

The tread is not symmetrical relative to the plane of the tire, which can lead to wheel “yaw” during braking, however, a test drive is yet to be.

Relatively close to the axis of the tire in a "zigzag" are only 108 "buns" - and 108 more closer to the sides. They, perhaps, will work only in corners ... Total - the spikes may not be enough.

2 . The next task is choice of screws. There are a lot of screws in local markets and shops, and finding something suitable is usually not difficult. Screw Requirements:

Flat on the outside (or at least without sharp edges) and as large a hat as possible (to better distribute the load on the camera).

The length, on the one hand, exceeding the thickness of the "buns" is enough to stick out, and, on the other hand, not too long, since the excess will have to be cut off / bit off / grind off - an additional difficult operation.

Hardness - the studs should not grind down on the pavement in one day. "Metal screws" will do.

In our case, the choice fell on "universal screws with a press washer" size 4.2x20. The length is too big, but I did not want to look for others. Clawed that the first liked. But the hats are a sight to behold! They look like this:

It should be noted that there are the same screws only 11 mm long, but they were not available where I took them. This option would be better.

3. Let's start the stitching. To do this, we need an awl and a Phillips screwdriver. The process is obvious - we pierce a hole in the "bun" - if possible in the center:

If you prick from the side of the protector, it is more convenient to aim, the holes are more precisely located. Then we screw the screw into the tire from the inside. To do this, you can turn it inside out a little. It turns out something like this:

"Wah-wah-wah! And so 216 times in a row." (with).

A little about how you can speed up this tedious process. It is clear that there is no escape from piercing holes and tightening screws. But the constant turning of the tire back and forth takes quite a lot of time. This can be avoided by turning the tire inside out immediately. At the same time, since the thickness of the rubber in different places differs significantly (where the "buns" are located, it is noticeably thicker), then when turned inside out, the inside looks heterogeneous. Where there are "buns" on the reverse side - there the wrong side of the rubber has small concavities. The following picture illustrates this point:

The desired concavities are shown by arrows (although the photo still shows quite poorly - turn your tire inside out and see what it is about). With some practice, it is possible to pierce the holes for the screws directly from the inside, focusing on these concavities. After some practice, it turns out to prick quite accurately, while the tire does not need to be constantly turned back and forth, which saves time, and the sharp ends of the screws are directed inward, which reduces the likelihood of scratching them. However, those who wish can perform this operation with gloves. It will look like this:

After a certain time, sufficient to tighten all the screws (in our case, 216 screws), the tire from the wrong side will look like this:

From the tread side at this stage, it resembles a gutted hedgehog turned inside out:

Turn the tire back to normal. The relationship with hedgehogs is becoming more and more noticeable:

Side view:

Now it's time to put the studded tire on the wheel for the first time. Naturally, the chamber must be protected from contact with the heads of the screws in order to avoid its rupture. To do this, it is easiest to use the old, cut along, with the nipple removed, the camera. As practice shows, for the front wheel, which has a relatively small load, this is quite enough. for the rear, most likely, some more powerful protection may be required. There was a mention of the use of a highway tube cut along for this purpose.

So, we take the old camera, which will work as a gasket:

Let's inflate the main chamber, which is to be inflated, a little - so that it keeps its shape, but not so much that the wheel with it then could not be beaded:

We dress the camera-laying on the camera slightly pumped up in this way:

Then, as usual, we put a studded tire on the wheel rim with one bead, insert a "chamber" sandwich, fold the tire completely and inflate the wheel. It turns out something like this:

Quite a vicious hedgehog...

4. And now it has come - the second part of the Marlezon ballet. The screws must be shortened to the required length. The following options are available here:

The screws were taken quite short, and the protector, on the contrary, is thick enough - in this case, you won’t need to bite off anything.

Too long ends can be ground on an emery wheel. But not everyone in the household has this item, it is also noisy and dusty. But it does work well...

Finally, the ends of the screws can simply be bitten off with a simple hand tool - all kinds of wire cutters, pliers, and so on.

For example, here is a photo of a tire with short screws that did not bite at all:

Now suppose that biting the ends is still necessary (as in our case). Let's talk about the tool. It is quite clear that the tool is different, as, indeed, screws too. The simplest option available in every home and promising hard work is ordinary pliers or wire cutters with one axis. The mechanical gain in strength is small, so they can only bite thin screws (or only the ends of thicker ones). The screws should be relatively soft - otherwise the wire cutters will deteriorate quickly enough - and there will be little sense from them. A more convenient option is wire cutters with additional levers (in the figure below; above, for comparison, ordinary pliers):

Such wire cutters are less common in stores, but I managed to find them from a friend of a motorist. Since in this case the screws are thick and hard, even such powerful wire cutters were not particularly enough. Screws should be bitten so that the ends are about 1.5-2.5 mm long. However, it seems that special accuracy is not needed here. As a result, I still managed to bite off all 216 screws - but in 5 evenings, that is, after 40 screws on average, I was pretty tired of this activity, and my fingers were no longer able to press on the handles of the nippers. When working, it is useful to use safety glasses (I wore the most common ones that I ride a bicycle) - since the bitten ends of the screws tend to scatter vigorously in all directions. Gloves also do not interfere - the screws are now sticking out. As a result, we have the desired studded tire. 216 spikes arranged in two "curved" rows. She still does not pull on a four-row.

Project costs:

Tire - 160r.

Screws - 216pcs x 35kop - 76r.

Russian-made chamber gasket (the rubber is thicker and cheaper) - 60 rubles.

Total 296r. Whether it is worth contacting this option - everyone decides for himself. Possible alternatives are either riding without studs (which can be crazily), or buying factory tires (which may not be possible either for financial reasons - or simply due to the lack of such rubber in stores).

Top view of the finished product: