Typical purchases of radio amateurs on aliexpress. Necessary goods for a radio amateur from China
A more advanced version of the main attribute of a radio amateur with push-button control, heating and a screen showing the temperature.
Portable soldering iron, which is very mobile due to USB power supply. Even from an external battery, it warms up in just 10-15 seconds.
Functional soldering station with hot air gun and a wide range of accessories. With its help, you can work not only with ordinary parts, but also with smaller SMD components.
A metal stand with a heavy base, which, for reliability, can be additionally attached to the table with a self-tapping screw.
Special sponges for cleaning tips, which are moistened with water and placed in the same recess on the stand for the soldering iron. There are 20 pieces in the lot.
Another option for a cleaning device is a box with a metal brush inside. Works even better.
High-quality solders with a diameter of 0.6 to 2.0 mm with flux inside. They melt well and don't smoke.
Special soldering mat made of heat-resistant silicone. It contains many different compartments in which it is convenient to put parts and fasteners during operation.
A device that helps to collect excess solder from the board.
Another option is to remove excess solder. When heated, such a tape collects it on itself.
A handy screwdriver with a large set of bits that will help you disassemble and assemble any electronics.
Set of six anti-static tweezers with different tip shapes. They serve to extract parts from the boards, as well as to hold them during soldering.
Special holder with swivel clips, magnifying glass and light that will replace the missing third hand. It also has a built-in soldering iron stand.
Multi-colored stranded wires for installation. Sold in 10m lengths.
Pliers for automatic removal of insulation from wires without damaging them. Can be adjusted to different diameters.
A set of heat shrink tubing in seven different diameters and colors. 140 pieces 10 cm long.
A sharp knife like a surgical scalpel. Blades come in different shapes and change as needed.
Good breadboard with power supply for building and testing prototypes.
REVIEW OF PRODUCTS ON ALIEXPRESS
FOR BEGINNER RADIO HAMPERS + A FEW TIPS
Frequently asked questions and requests to provide a link where and how much I bought this or that forced me to create these pages.
The address of the seller's page will be indicated only at the time of purchase and will not be edited in the future
- sellers change the nomenclature, change pages and their addresses. I'm not interested in following this.
What has already been bought is decomposed
This page is going to be pretty big and once it gets HUGE I will move on to the next one and the next one and so on. On these pages, I will share my impressions of shopping, give links to purchased, planned to buy, or simply liked products. I’m sorry that I won’t cover the whole range of goods of this MEGA STOCK of Chinese products, but I’m only interested in a small branch related to electronics, and, well, a little bit related to everyday life.
Well, let's start in order...
Of course, any normal device must be made on a printed circuit board, and this requires foil fiberglass. Of course, on Ali, I looked for him and found him. True, in some reviews it is mentioned that this is getinaks. To be honest, even from the era of my youth, the word GETINAKS causes terrible goosebumps on the back. The foil practically does not hold, it immediately reaches for the soldering iron even at the tinning stage, so I was puzzled to find one of ours who bought this wonderful product. And found. I was treated to a small leaf of getinax, bought on ALIEXPRESS.
An external examination of a pronounced flaw did not reveal, LUT getinax survived calmly, drilling and tinning even with an overheated soldering iron also did not affect the strength of gluing copper foil to the getinax base. The device was assembled, tested, proved unsuitable and abandoned, but not at all through the fault of the printed circuit board.
After rummaging through Ali, I found several options that are acceptable to me, I’m sorry, but I use one-sided, because I make boards using LUT and I don’t want to bother with a two-sided board. But it's up to you to choose:
Returning all the same to the manufacture of full-fledged printed circuit boards, drills will definitely be required. I ordered drills, but only ordinary ones, not CNC. I took the CNC at the Rostov radio market. Of course, they drill much better, but they have one significant drawback - when manually drilling, they break quite often, and the price of such drills is quite high. Therefore, you have to choose between frequent sharpening of drills and breakage of the latter. For those who are just starting out and don't have a locker, it would be quite reasonable to purchase a set right away, and then supplement it with the necessary drills.
The picture accidentally caught sets from T.A.SP - not a bad manufacturer of small drilling and grinding equipment. I have been using a Dremel for more than a year, not often though, it works quite decently and there is nothing to complain about.
Of course, the drills need to be clamped into something, and for this you need cartridges. There are quite a lot of cartridges, but not everyone pays attention to the fact that there are two types of them. Buyers place the main emphasis on diameters, and when an order arrives, I shrug my shoulders in bewilderment - what the hell did they send me.
The fact is that the cartridges go under home-made drills and under factory dremels, and they differ primarily in that for home-made cartridges they are not collapsible - the collet does not change, but is made in one piece with the cartridge.
Of course, dremel cartridges are more versatile and you can buy collets for them separately. Sets of collets and equipment for them are very diverse.
But you can buy separately cartridges for a minidrill. First of all, you need to pay attention to the installation diameter so that it is the same as the diameter of the shaft of the engine you have. The choice of cartridges is quite large, ranging from primitive collet chucks to small cartridges with keys to clamp the drill, almost like on large drills. There are also adapters for larger drills, but drilling the board with a large drill is just killing drills.
Of course, the cartridges need to be put on something. Well, here's how. Of course, you can order a ready-made dremel, you can use a ready-made drill, or you can also order a separate engine. I already had a cartridge with a set of collets, however, as well as an engine, but I had an engine from a 24-volt inkjet printer and somewhere under 3000 rpm. Believe it or not, it wasn't enough. No, of course, I drilled the boards with them and quite successfully, but it took more time than it could. Therefore, without thinking much, I ordered a motor. The motor went VERY long, but I didn’t almost regret buying it - clearly more than 20,000 rpm with a power supply of 13 V. It’s a little heavy, but you quickly get used to it, but to the fact that it has two sheets of textolite 1.5 each mm almost without tension drills with a 3 mm drill bit hard to get used to and the drill constantly flies into the table.
I won’t lie - to get a decent drill I had to tinker. A 3mm drill was clamped into the existing chuck, then this drill was clamped into a drill and I got a drill chuck at the end of the drill, and the place where the shaft of this collet chuck is inserted was now available for drilling. I didn’t drill much and the existing hole with a diameter of 3 mm, I clamped the drill into a clamp for drills, and made it 4 mm. The 55 mm motor shaft now had to be driven to 4 mm. Everything turned out to be much easier here - I turned on the engine and grinded the shaft with a grinder until it began to fit tightly into the cartridge.
The result is a fairly powerful drill, although it also has a drawback - there is an impeller inside, which drives air through the engine, cooling it. This is of course good, but that's just the air it draws in from below. When drilling, the chips, of course, do not fly into the engine - its cartridge screws inflate, but when cutting and grinding, all this dust is driven through the engine, naturally not hastily killing it. Globally, I have not yet thought about solving this problem, but more and more often I think about it.
There is a huge selection of engines on Aliexpress, ranging from the smallest ones to engines of monstrous sizes for the industry. However, too huge engines are unnecessary for us, but something smaller is quite useful.
For those who do not want to bother with separate motors and cartridges, there is an option for a ready-made drill. These are just engines with cartridges put on them, sometimes the engines are hidden in aluminum casings. No, these are not full-fledged dremels, these are economy class drills:
CHOOSE A DRILL
For drills, there is also a fairly large selection of individual engines, but the most acceptable engines are models 555 and 775.
Engine 555 - it happens for different voltages, most likely these are engines for screwdrivers, compact, quite powerful, but for the most part on plain bearings. Quite often they come with a gearbox, so pay attention to this.
Engine 775 - also for different voltages, if this is important, then contact the seller before ordering. There are both completely on plain bearings, and the front bearing can be ball bearing, which is much better if, in addition to drilling, some other operations are performed.
If the engine is powerful enough, then you can use the soft start system. Below is the simplest scheme for a smooth set of revolutions. The voltage of electrolytic capacitors must be at least 10% higher than the supply voltage. The larger the capacitance of capacitor C4, the smoother the speed will pick up.
We will assume that the boards have been drilled and now they need to be soldered. Of course you need a soldering iron. Today, there are just a huge number of options, ranging from gas soldering irons, USB-powered soldering irons and ending with soldering complexes. It remains only to figure out what is really needed today, and what can be tolerated for several years.
Of course, a soldering iron with a temperature controller is much more convenient than a conventional soldering iron, since it allows you to quickly adjust the tip temperature, which means that one soldering iron can be used for mounting and dismantling electronic components (for dismantling, you need a higher temperature so as not to overheat the tracks and the elements themselves).
But here you can step on small rakes - not all soldering irons are universal. The fact is that in addition to adjusting the temperature, the soldering iron tip must also have some heat capacity, the ability to accumulate heat. Otherwise, during the installation or dismantling of medium-sized elements, difficulties will arise - the tip will stick to the leads, since the heat accumulated in the tip will not be enough to warm up the massive lead and the solder will cease to be liquid. These soldering irons include most soldering irons with ceramic heaters:
Soldering irons of this type have one more trouble - the tips can be steel with a chemical coating of the working area. Steel stings are frankly an amateur, well, there are types of masochists, and copper ones are not found in every store. And just soldering irons of this type have a rather low heat capacity. Yes, they heat up much faster than ordinary fingertips, but when in contact with something massive, they cool down as quickly as they do not heat up.
More versatile are soldering irons with a rod tip. It is much easier to buy it, and the lack of variety only increases the flight of creative thought - you can make much larger types of stings yourself.
Using the same soldering iron but different tips can greatly increase the range of applications of the soldering iron, since it can not only solder SMD components, but also network electrolytic capacitors without any problems. If you use a separate heat source, well, for example, a small gas burner, then you can solder car radiators with a similar soldering iron - the heat capacity of the tip is enough, and for accelerated heating just use a gas burner.
Below are a few sketches of homemade stings for a rod electric burner, using which the time to complete a particular task is significantly accelerated:
If the soldering iron is equipped with a temperature controller, then the area of convenience and speed of work can be significantly increased - when installing small parts, the temperature is reduced so as not to overheat the part, when dismantling large parts, the temperature is increased, which speeds up the heating of the solder.
However, soldering irons with temperature control and a rod tip are not as diverse as we would like. There are only two models of such soldering irons on Ali, and one will probably soon disappear from sale. These are ESI-S60 and BK-456. There is only ONE OPTION on Herbest, but somehow it is expensive. On Banggud, things are the same - just ONE OPTION, but it also doesn’t come cheap.
If too much accuracy is not needed, then you can use a dimmer to adjust the temperature - TRIAC POWER CONTROLLER. But the dimmer can only turn down the power. The circuit of the regulator below has only three adjustment options, but is able to increase the power of the soldering iron. Just do not abuse this mode - the heating element will not work in normal mode and may overheat and burn out.
If the mode switch SA is in the middle position, then the diode bridge is not complete and only one half-cycle of the sinusoid flows through the load - the soldering iron heats up less. If the switch is in the left position, then the diode bridge already passes both half-waves of the sinusoid and the soldering iron heats up as usual. If the switch is in the right position, then a storage capacitor is also connected, which gives off the voltage accumulated at the peaks during the transition of the sinusoid through zero and the soldering iron heats up more.
For more information about solders and fluxes, see the video below:
Of course, measuring instruments are needed not only by a hardened radio amateur, but also by a beginner - electricity is not visible to the eye, and for the successful operation of a device, it is necessary to measure not only the parameters of the elements, but voltage and current.
There are quite a few multimeters on Ali, ranging from the simplest to precision ones, but they also have a corresponding cost. It makes no sense for a novice radio amateur to buy an expensive device - the device will still be killed within three to four months, you can trust me. The most popular way to kill multimeters - after measuring the current, forgetting to switch the operating mode of the device, they measure the voltage. If the power supply is powerful enough, then both the device and the device itself usually burn out. Enough frequencies after measuring the resistance, they also measure the voltage and again the device becomes unusable.
To perform the correct measurements and understand what and how to measure, it is better to watch the following video:
The video shows an 838 series multimeter with a temperature meter, but not everyone needs one. The 830 series model has been the most popular multimeter for quite a long time. This multimeter is almost the same as the 838 and is used in exactly the same way. When you gain experience, then it will be possible to purchase a more serious multimeter. If by that time your first tester is alive, it will not be superfluous either - there are situations when one multimeter is not enough.
Select multimeter DT830.
Those who are sure that they need something more serious than the simplest multimeter can CHOOSE a MULTIMETER of a more advanced class.
It also makes sense to think about purchasing another kind of multimeter - a universal meter of element parameters, into which the element type determinant is integrated, as well as its pinout. The little thing is quite useful, because it allows you to measure not only the resistance of resistors, but also the capacitance of capacitors, and the inductance of chokes and transformers. In addition, this multitester determines the pinout of diodes, the type and pinout of transistors.
There are quite a few similar multi-testers on Ali, but the MG328 model differs from the rest in the presence of test leads, which is much more convenient than the connector installed on the board, into which you can no longer insert a soldered capacitor. In the photo above, just my device with an orange backlight - the price depended on the color of the backlight at the time of purchase and I chose the cheapest one - I don’t participate in glamorous fashion shows.
When choosing this multimeter, you should pay attention to the maximum value of the measured capacitances - the same model may not measure capacitances greater than 10,000 microfarads, and the one in the photo measures up to 100,000 microfarads, which allowed me to reject my old capacitors. A collet connector is also installed on the device and platforms are made for checking SMD components.
This device is powered either by a battery (not included with the purchase) or from a USB charger for phones - Samsung fit perfectly.
Button with fixation - ON-OFF, button without fixation is the start of the measurement.
CHOOSE MULTITESTER MG328
Of course, you can attach crocodiles to any multitester, but it's good when crocodiles are available, and even three of the same, but with different-colored shells. And if not?
Those who have taken up a soldering iron with a firm intention to overcome soldering skills not only in soldering samovars will find it very useful to purchase a few more devices.
If a multimeter is the eyes of an electronics engineer that allows you to see the values \u200b\u200bof voltages and currents, then the oscilloscope is really eagle vision, since you can see how these values change in real time.
When I was studying, I happened to hear a dispute between two teachers and one to the other said something like the following:
- An electrician needs a tester - the frequency and form of the mains voltage is determined by GOST, but an electronics engineer also needs an oscilloscope, because it works with voltages of different frequencies and different shapes, and until he sees what is happening to him, he will look like a fortune teller from the station, and not a full-fledged specialist.
Where can I get money, and then buy an oscilloscope in 1987 then?
With money, the issue was resolved quite simply - nightly unloading of wagons. It was then that I realized that those who do not know how to work with their heads work with their hands. The spine hurt for two weeks, but the smell of flour remained in the nose for another month. Frankly speaking, my faith that I needed an oscilloscope was shattered on the second unloading, but still resisted and I bought this device:
Yes, the device is purely demonstration, but by connecting it in parallel with C1-55, I scratched divisions right on the case and it became measuring. Slightly spurious, but measurable!
I note that I bought an oscilloscope before I had my first tester. Seeing my attempts in this area, my parents bought me my second measuring device:
To be honest, I rarely used the tester in the first couple. The K155 series studied at that time amazed the teenage brain with its capabilities and I used the oscilloscope much more often than the tester.
Then sound engineering caught on and here the oscilloscope became a really very useful device - voltages, signal shape, all this was visible and in the case of jambs it was possible to find them much faster.
Since then, since the purchase of this demonstration primitive, I have always had an oscilloscope. There were many devices: C1-80, C1-83, C1-112, C1-99, a special thrill for C1-55 - this is the only oscilloscope that could be synchronized by the self-reset pulse of the K555 series. By the way, I still have C1-55 tightly packed in cellophane, although I have been using UTD2052CEL for quite some time.
The convenience of an oscilloscope lies precisely in the fact that they can not only measure the voltage, but also control its shape, see the ripple or excitation of the circuit.
Which oscilloscope should a beginner choose today?
The question is rather complicated, since Soviet oscilloscopes are still in service, and digital counterparts have been added to them. So here are a few things to be aware of first:
Your first oscilloscope doesn't have to be expensive, as there's a huge chance you'll kill it.
There is no need to chase after too chic parameters, beginners still do not use them. The maximum frequency of 200-300 kHz is already enough. This is already in the next device you will need something under 10 MHz, but I dare to assure you - you will use it VERY rarely.
Where does the upper frequency of 200 kHz come from?
The audio range ends at 20 kHz, switching power supplies operate at frequencies below 200 kHz, home-made ones rarely approach 100 kHz. What's the point of paying for something that will never be used?
How much will an oscilloscope cost?
Not expensive and for this you don’t even need to unload the wagons. Today, May 14, 2017, the following oscilloscope was found on Avito:
You can also take advantage of the offer from China - just not long ago, entry-level compact oscilloscopes DSO138 appeared. Of course, they have been traded on Ali for a long time, but no matter how much I looked, they were sold as a set of parts for self-assembly. Personally, I don’t have time to bother with soldering such a trifle, it will definitely be scary for a beginner to solder something, but here’s a surprise - a completely finished oscilloscope board - BUY DSO138 ASSEMBLY.
The cord in the kit is really too much for beginners, so I strongly recommend choosing a more serious OSCILLOSCOPE PROBE, immediately with a divider of 1:10
For those who have a birthday soon, it’s not much easier - you can sit on your parents and beg for yourself a more serious oscilloscope, but I repeat - do not chase too smart parameters, you will still shake it and spend it again on the same one, it may not work. Therefore, when choosing an oscilloscope, behave modestly. As you learn to use it confidently, you will understand what parameters you really need for this miracle of measuring technology, then you will choose a device of a higher class, but for now the level of the calculator will be quite enough.
Of course, literature will also be needed, Ali does not have it, so there are not many tips from personal experience:
First of all, we need two books, even in electronic form. The first is a spelling dictionary, the second is a dictionary of electronic terms. No need to smile.
By asking a search engine a question, first of all, you yourself put it in an awkward position and force the robot to study your illiteracy. And do not be surprised that in the search results you get not quite what you would like.
how to connect wires to speakers
sound amplifier PCB
horaktyrestics tda 7293
transformer for inverter
tsagaan holton
Calculation of columns to the amplifier
This is from liveinternet.ru statistics, what search queries people get to this site, just opened the first 50 search queries and more than 10% of the queries are written with errors. What answers do you hope to see?
As for the abbreviations, the situation is about the same - everyone strives to come up with something of his own and then is surprised or offended that he is ridiculed.
Well, with what fright do transistors shrink like trans? Why did power amplifiers become sound amplifiers? If you cannot explain your problem with the circuit, how can you advise something? Or maybe in such cases, give advice in the same way - in your own, invented language, and then spread rot on the questioner that he does not understand anything?
The next on the list of necessary for a beginner will again be books, namely reference books. No, you do not need to headlong download from the Internet all the books that have the word "DIRECTORY" on the cover.
On the computer, make a folder, there are several other folders in it, the names of which are immediately made into groups. This folder will contain everything related to amplifiers, this one will contain power supplies, the next one will contain everything related to home automation. It is better to make folder names immediately in English letters and not longer than 8 characters. If Windows crashes in your VDRGU, or the boot sector on your hard disk is covered, all this information can be extracted, but in low-level languages, and they only understand English letters and usually see a name of more than 8 characters poorly.
Reference data for the element base are usually stored in specialized libraries. In order not to climb through these repositories every time, I compiled my reference sheet of the most popular values, and at the very top of this directory there are search lines for three fairly large repositories of technical documentation for electronic components. Enter the name, click SEARCH and we get the result.
However, everything that you soldered will remain a board and will remain so until the board is connected, and for this you need wires, mounting wires.
There are quite a lot of wires on Aliexpress and they differ not only in color. First, consider the brand wires AWG
.
Wire technical parameters:
If everything seems to be clear with the technical characteristics, then there are some difficulties with the marking itself - it is back to front, i.e. the larger the number in the designation, the thinner the wire will be. And from this figure it is impossible to draw a conclusion about the cross section of the conductor. Therefore, additional parameters were collected in a separate table:
| AWG | Core diameter | Cross-sectional area | Current load for copper wire at t 60/75/90 °C | |
| inches | mm | mm2 | BUT | |
| 0000 (4/0) | 0,4600 | 11,684 | 107 | 195/230/260 |
| 000 (3/0) | 0,4096 | 10,404 | 85 | 165/200/225 |
| 00 (2/0) | 0,3648 | 9,266 | 67,4 | 145/175/195 |
| 0 (1/0) | 0,3249 | 8,252 | 53,5 | 125/150/170 |
| 1 | 0,2893 | 7,348 | 42,4 | 110 / 130 / 150 |
| 2 | 0,2576 | 6,544 | 33,6 | 95/115/130 |
| 3 | 0,2294 | 5,827 | 26,7 | 85/100/110 |
| 4 | 0,2043 | 5,189 | 21,2 | 70/85/95 |
| 5 | 0,1819 | 4,621 | 16,8 | |
| 6 | 0,1620 | 4,115 | 13,3 | 55/65/75 |
| 7 | 0,1443 | 3,665 | 10,5 | |
| 8 | 0,1285 | 3,264 | 8,37 | 40/50/55 |
| 9 | 0,1144 | 2,906 | 6,63 | |
| 10 | 0,1019 | 2,588 | 5,26 | 30/35/40 |
| 11 | 0,0907 | 2,305 | 4,17 | |
| 12 | 0,0808 | 2,053 | 3,31 | 25/25/30 |
| 13 | 0,0720 | 1,828 | 2,62 | |
| 14 | 0,0641 | 1,628 | 2,08 | 20/20/25 |
| 15 | 0,0571 | 1,450 | 1,65 | |
| 16 | 0,0508 | 1,291 | 1,31 | - / - / 18 |
| 17 | 0,0453 | 1,150 | 1,04 | |
| 18 | 0,0403 | 1,024 | 0,823 | -/-/14 |
| 19 | 0,0359 | 0,912 | 0,653 | |
| 20 | 0,0320 | 0,812 | 0,518 | |
| 21 | 0,0285 | 0,723 | 0,41 | |
| 22 | 0,0253 | 0,644 | 0,326 | |
| 23 | 0,0226 | 0,573 | 0,258 | |
| 24 | 0,0201 | 0,511 | 0,205 | |
| 25 | 0,0179 | 0,455 | 0,162 | |
| 26 | 0,0159 | 0,405 | 0,129 | |
| 27 | 0,0142 | 0,361 | 0,102 | |
| 28 | 0,0126 | 0,321 | 0,081 | |
| 29 | 0,0113 | 0,286 | 0,0642 | |
| 30 | 0,0100 | 0,255 | 0,0509 | |
| 31 | 0,00893 | 0,227 | 0,0404 | |
| 32 | 0,00795 | 0,202 | 0,032 | |
| 33 | 0,00708 | 0,180 | 0,0254 | |
| 34 | 0,00630 | 0,160 | 0,0201 | |
| 35 | 0,00561 | 0,143 | 0,016 | |
| 36 | 0,00500 | 0,127 | 0,0127 | |
| 37 | 0,00445 | 0,113 | 0,01 | |
| 38 | 0,00397 | 0,101 | 0,00797 | |
| 39 | 0,00353 | 0,0897 | 0,00632 | |
| 40 | 0,00314 | 0,0799 | 0,00501 | |
If there are rules, then of course there are exceptions to them. In this case, the exception is wires in silicone two hundred degree insulation with a normalized set of cores of a certain diameter. For example, a couple of pages: you can order two-meter pieces of wire from 18AWG to 30AWG (10 color options), and pieces of 5 meters from 6AWG to 10AWG. Details about this wire are summarized in the table.
| Caliber | Number of wires with a diameter of 0.08 mm | cross section | Core diameter | Insulation thickness | Wire diameter | Resistance ohm/km | Maximum current, A at 50% duty cycle |
| 1 | 14000 | 70 | 11,4 | 2,3 | 16 | 0,45 | 840 |
| 2 | 10000 | 50 | 10,2 | 2,4 | 15 | 0,63 | 630 |
| 3 | 7000 | 35 | 7,7 | 2,6 | 13 | 0,89 | 500 |
| 4 | 5000 | 25 | 7,2 | 2,4 | 12 | 1,25 | 400 |
| 6 | 3200 | 16 | 5,2 | 1,65 | 8,5 | 1,9 | 300 |
| 7 | 2400 | 12 | 4,5 | 1,35 | 7,2 | 2,6 | 240 |
| 8 | 1650 | 8,3 | 3,5 | 1,5 | 6,5 | 3,7 | 190 |
| 10 | 1050 | 5,3 | 2,9 | 1,3 | 5,5 | 6,3 | 140 |
| 11 | 750 | 3,8 | 2,53 | 1,2 | 5 | 8,3 | 105 |
| 12 | 680 | 3,4 | 2,48 | 1 | 4,5 | 9,8 | 88 |
| 13 | 500 | 2,5 | 2 | 1 | 4 | 12,5 | 70 |
| 14 | 400 | 2,0 | 1,78 | 0,9 | 3,5 | 15,6 | 55 |
| 15 | 300 | 1,5 | 1,6 | 0,8 | 3,2 | 20,8 | 42 |
| 16 | 252 | 1,27 | 1,53 | 0,75 | 3 | 24,4 | 35 |
| 17 | 210 | 1 | 1,33 | 0,68 | 2,7 | 29,8 | 30 |
| 18 | 150 | 0,75 | 1,19 | 0,55 | 2,3 | 39,5 | 22 |
| 20 | 100 | 0,5 | 0,92 | 0,45 | 1,8 | 62,5 | 13 |
| 22 | 60 | 0,3 | 0,78 | 0,45 | 1,7 | 88,6 | 8 |
| 24 | 40 | 0,2 | 0,6 | 0,5 | 1,6 | 97,6 | 5 |
| 26 | 30 | 0,15 | 0,46 | 0,5 | 1,5 | 123 | 3,5 |
| 28 | 16 | 0,08 | 0,35 | 0,4 | 1,2 | 227,2 | 1,25 |
| 30 | 11 | 0,055 | 0,3 | 0,3 | 0,8 | 331 | 0,5 |
| Rated voltage 600V, maximum not more than 2000V | |||||||
I sorted out the Ali wires for quite a long time - I was looking for inexpensive colorful wires to replace the wiring in the car. A lot of time was killed, nevertheless, I found something:
PVC insulation, a fairly large selection of colors and sections, the store also has rather inexpensive connectors with a pitch of 2.54, but this is for other purposes, I digress. The store rating is 99.6%, the number of sales is not bad, in general, the store is quite reliable. I was looking for wires, so I give a link to the DEPARTMENT OF WIRES IN PVC INSULATION. Wires are sold both in sets of several colors, and in one color.
There is another shop that impressed me. The wires there are somewhat expensive, but the range of additional equipment is simply huge. These are all kinds of connectors, both specialized for audio equipment and for power supply, including power. The number of varieties of heat shrink tubing just killed - starting from ordinary PVC HEAT SHRINK TUBES 2: 1 and ending with SPECIALIZED HEAT SHRINK TUBES having an adhesive layer inside. The choice of diameters and colors of BRIDGES FOR WIRES is also huge. A wire braid is a special mesh tube that can change its diameter to accommodate multiple wires. Thus, a fairly neat tourniquet is obtained:
In general, it makes sense to go through the sections of this store - you can find quite a lot of interesting lotions for laying and fastening wires.
Also, do not forget that there are tape harnesses. The thing, although somewhat expensive, but the installation design and ease of maintenance are worth it. To begin with, a link to the SHOP DEPARTMENT in which I purchased a ribbon bundle for 40 wires, although the bundle is only 20 cm long, but a single-pin connector is already soldered on each side of the wire, in my case, “dad” on one side, and “mother” on the other. Such stubs of flight harness are quite useful when modeling devices on Arduino or when testing prototypes of hardware electronics. However, if the length of the wire is enough, then this bundle or its fragment can also be used in the finished device.
If 20 centimeters is not enough, then you can order a tape harness and a much longer length. Moreover, the larger the length of the tape harness you take, the cheaper it is.
I ordered a tape for 20 wires in this STORE, ordered 5 meters, as a result it turned out to be $ 1.4 per meter. If I took a segment of 10 meters, then one meter would cost me $ 1.19. It is clear that even 5 meters is not always needed, but if you assemble one device and then you will only brag about what you have done, then there is no point in buying 5 meters - you will have to look for a wire per footage, but it will definitely be more expensive. If you have plans for a long occupation with electronics, then you can believe me - these 5 meters of tape harness will end VERY quickly.
By the way, the store has a fairly large selection of not only tape harnesses, but also heat shrink tubing, nylon braids for ordinary harnesses, foil textolite and breadboards.
Of course, the best connector is soldering, but this is not always convenient. It was for this reason that there was a rather large digression into the world of the connector on Ali. Perhaps I did not search very persistently, but the store I found for connectors and connectors made an impression - I have not found such a large selection yet. The only drawback is the small wholesale. All connectors in the store are divided into three main groups, what interested me is located.
The store has a fairly large selection of PVC-insulated wires (silcon ones are also available, but very modestly), there is a LARGE SELECTION OF HARNESSES WITH SOLDERED CONNECTORS, which will significantly reduce the time when assembling your device. There are flat FFC / FPC cables, and by the way there are connectors for them. In general, if you decide to combine something with something, then so far this is the best option I have found.
A trial order of wires with connectors was made. The wires are crimped well, the wires are not magnetic, the wire length is 30 cm, but you can order the wires of the desired length.
It seems that everything that I wanted to say, that I remember, I will add ....
In order not to be unfounded, I will continue to quote search queries here, maybe someone will still think about how he writes. So let's go:
the power supply unit on ir flies tpansistors and irks through a developed
What is the diameter of the primary winding?
microphone touches
starting a three-phase motor
how to make columns
frequency and intensity of perception
heat shrink tubing with solder overview
how to connect a 6.3v lamp to a 9.6v circuit so that it does not burn out
amplifier resistors
what kind of noise is used to set up acoustic systems
do-it-yourself welding armaley
power amplifier output stage circuits
Hi all! The channel "Reviews of parcels and homemade products from jakson" talked about the most necessary, useful and profitable products for radio amateurs that he found in China.
Solder
One of the main consumables of any radio amateur after electrical tape, almost any work with a soldering iron will not be complete without the use of this simple but important resource. It is much more profitable to buy it in China, since in almost any local radio market the price is unreasonably inflated several times. It is advisable to purchase flux-containing solders, with which soldering is much easier and more accurate. It is also worth choosing solder with a low lead content, it is more fusible and more comfortable in normal use. The flow of solder, which was found regardless of the section, weighs 100 grams.
Heat shrink
Do you like to work neatly? If yes, then heat shrink is the product from China that you need. It reliably insulates the wires and prevents a short circuit, and the strength of the connection on which the heat shrink is seated is many times higher. I found a set of 140 pieces that differ in diameter and color.
Resistor set
If you often assemble a variety of circuits or repair equipment, then a set of resistors with different resistances will make this task easier. It is much easier and cheaper to purchase all the denominations at once than to buy the necessary ones by the piece. I found such a set of 300 resistors in 30 denominations, that is, 10 pieces of each denomination.
Amplifier RAM8403
A popular amplifier, almost everyone ordered it, because it is cheap. Found for 21 rubles. At the same time, we get quite good characteristics, or rather two stereo channels with an output power of 3 watts per channel, and most importantly, you can power it from 3 and 7 to 5 Volts. It is often used in compact audio amplifiers.
Sponges for cleaning the soldering iron
All radio amateurs faced the problem of soot on the tip of the soldering iron. A very unpleasant phenomenon that greatly spoils the purity of the soldering. A simple sponge made from natural materials will help you quickly clean the sting from unwanted sediment. In addition, if you have a modern soldering iron with a non-fading tip, it is this kind of tool that is recommended for cleaning it so as not to damage the thin non-fading layer and prolong the life of the tip. I found a set of this product of 10 pieces worth about a dollar. Just remember to moisten them with water or glycerin.
Surge Protectors
Often when assembling a variety of devices, problems with the supply voltage can occur. The easiest way to adjust it and set a certain level is a great product for a radio amateur - a stabilizer. In China, step-up and step-down stabilizers are sold inexpensively, where we can set the required voltage using a variable resistor. The author of the video often uses similar inexpensive but useful modules.
Breadboards
Let's get back to the topic of assembling homemade products. Probably, many radio amateurs began their activities by assembling a simple circuit on a surface mount, which in the end turned out to be unreliable. In addition, it is inconvenient to understand it, if you have assembled anything, so it is important to use breadboard printed circuit boards. They are inexpensive. I personally found 10 pieces for 90 rubles, but they simplify assembly and improve quality at times.
LEDs
Probably one of the most beloved parts by radio amateurs. After all, they have a lot of applications. Often in many of the simplest circuits they are used. It’s not for you to tell about them, the most advantageous offer that I found in China is 100 pieces of 5 meters of LEDs for 1 dollar.
Buttons
A simple and at the same time useful tool, the use of which can be found in any scheme. Found 2 types: with a latch and without. They also cost mere pennies.
Flux
Last but not least, plus. It should be used for any soldering. It greatly simplifies and improves it. Previously, soldering acid or rosin was used for this purpose, but liquid flux is much more convenient for applying to surfaces that you are going to solder. A tube of this miracle with a volume of 10 milliliters in China costs about a dollar. Bought it a couple of years ago and still hasn't run out. In general, all lovers of soldering.
Aliexpress literally blew up the Russian market with cheap Chinese goods. And, of course, for us electronics engineers, this is a huge plus. Cheap radio components, devices, consumables - all this is on Ali. In this article, you can even read what I recently purchased from this Chinese online store. But today we'll talk about something completely different.
I think it all started with the fact that the Russian company Master Kit began to produce kits for beginner radio amateurs. They gave you a ready-made printed circuit board and a set of corresponding radio elements in a bag in order to assemble the simplest device according to the schematic. Beginning electronics engineers with straight handles and a soldering iron with flux easily assembled the device. In the end, both sides won. Master Keith did not have to solder the radio elements and look for a case for an electronic trinket, and a novice electronics engineer could practice soldering and assemble a fully functioning device for a minimum price. But knowing our Russian business, one can guess that our prices, as usual, are overpriced by two or even three times the original cost of the goods. To be honest, I wouldn't say Master Kit has cheap kits.
But I wonder if there are the same sets in China? I opened the site, entered the phrase “electronic diy” into Ali’s search, which means “electronic craft” and the site gave me very interesting results. Decided to try. I ordered a watch making kit. The goods came in just a month.
The set included a handkerchief with detailed drawings on it, where to solder what; stitched an AVR microcontroller with a crib, three two-digit seven-segment indicators, a circuit for the device, and of course, a bunch of various radio elements:
After sitting one evening with a soldering iron, slowly, soldered this miracle:
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Trimmed the corners. Find out why below.
Solderer from me is still the one)
So that the watch does not reset when the power is turned off, I bought a flat round battery for them, since it was not included in the kit:
To power the watch itself, I first bought a 9-volt crown battery for them, but the watch burned it out in 3 days). I took an old mobile charger:
The power supply range for the watch is from 6 to 12 Volts. What do we have here? 6 volts, just what you need:
He introduced the wire, tying a knot so that it would not be torn from the board, and passed it through the case.
Since the handkerchief did not fit a little, I had to circumcise her). But then it fit very tightly and neatly:
Now I always have the exact time up to a second on my desktop ;-) The time is adjusted with the S1 button.
Between the two-digit seven-segmenters there should have been LEDs, but I removed them, since they just shone stupidly, which was annoying. Now you can even wake up in the middle of the night, look at the time on your watch, and then fall asleep again with a clear conscience, because it's too early to get up) The indicators are shining perfectly! Time is ticking right.
Why did I paint this watch here, which I didn’t even design? So, let's remember how much this watch would cost me if I completely made it myself from scratch:
1) Buy foil textolite and all radio elements
2) Run a trace on your computer
3) Make
4) Write a program for the microcontroller
5) Flash it
6) Assemble the device.
Okay, I won’t count the labor costs in time. Let's count the money. At the time of writing:
- microcontroller AT89C2051 - 89 rubles in Chip Dip
– two-digit indicators 3 pcs. - on Ali 1 pc. \u003d 50 rubles, then 150 rubles.
- small things (resistors, transistors, diodes, button, terminal, quartz) well, I think for everything about still 100 rubles.
- textolite, chlorine iron, well, suppose you have them. Add another 50 rubles on top.
Total: 89+150+100+50=389 rubles Almost 400 rubles, and this is taking into account the cheapest radio elements and consumables.
And my set cost ... (there should be drum roll, fanfare, dancing naked heifers) only 250 rubles! This is back when a dollar cost 60 rubles. Now this watch costs 190 rubles (!)
“Yeah, well, what is it?” Now a simple Chinese electronic watch can even be taken for a hundred in a case and with a normal LCD monochrome display, you say. Yes, I agree. But how much buzz and practice you will experience if you collect this set ;-)
Ali really has various sets, ranging from simple blinkers to complete devices. You can even assemble a full-fledged multimeter. Some guys took sets and were quite satisfied. Everything worked fine. The quality of the handkerchief, of course, is so-so. When I connected the device for the first time, the first two indicators worked with jambs. As it turned out, he accidentally overheated the penny and he walked away, breaking off the track.
Heat-resistant mat for soldering. Withstands temperatures up to 500 degrees!
You can look at this link.
The third hand, an indispensable thing in the household! I wrote more about it in this article.
You can view and purchase this link.
I twist and turn, I want to turn it out) A set of high-quality, hardened screwdrivers from Xiaomi will help you. Will unscrew and tighten 99% of all Chinese types of bolts
Choose
Do you work with small things? Magnetic strap to help you!
We are watching
Coil of solder with rosin inside. Enough for a lifetime if you are not a fan of electronics)
You can look and buy
Has the sting been littered with a burn or excessive solder? We dip it into this shavings and the sting will melt like new!
Wet this sponge with water or glycerin and then clean the tip of a hot soldering iron.
We are watching
Don't forget to clean the soldering iron tip with a tip reactivator! More details in this article.
Buy
The best quality and price gel flux. This is the same rosin, but you can not even wash it and it never burns. You can read about gel fluxes in this article. I've been using this for 5 years now.
If you like quality, then you can look at this flux gel:
It can be viewed by this link.
Super Chinese rosin! Soldering with her is a pleasure! It smells like scented candles. Doesn't burn. After 10-15 minutes even inserts))
This one is nice too ;-)
We are watching
Stranded copper wire of 5 meters of different colors
Buy
Breadboard set. What is a breadboard, read in this article.
Choose!
One-sided foil textolite 10x15cm
You can look
Plastic cases for your crafts
We are watching
Plastic case for self-made device
You can look at this link
Wirewound and SMD resistor kits
What is a resistor, read in the article. choose sets for your taste and color ;-)
A set of beginner electronics microcontrollers AVR. It contains a power supply board powered by USB or external power up to 12 Volts, a breadboard and a set of jumpers.
Looking for the sweetest price.
Breadboard jumper set
We look at link and choose the option you like
tulips
Choose according to your taste and color ;-)
Different types of voltmeters-ammeters. I even reviewed one of them.
choose to your taste and color!
A set of fuses for all occasions
We are watching
Fuse holders. The rule is this - the larger the fuse rating in Amperes, the healthier the holder must be, otherwise its wires will begin to melt faster than the fuse itself.
These are for the 5x20mm glass fuses I listed above. It is advisable to use with fuses up to 3 Amperes. More than 3 amps, the holder wire itself will begin to melt.
But these are already designed for more powerful fuses
You can look at these and other types of fuse holders at this link.
Bottle with a set of needles. I never used the bottle, but the needles quickly dispersed into syringes, with which I dose the RMA-223 flux
Choose according to your taste and color ;-)
Knobs for potentiometers and volume controls
Choice huge!
And here is the set of potentiometers:
choose from any seller.
Rubber feet for your crafts
We are watching
Assorted LEDs
Choice huge!
Very much even nicho such crocodiles. I put them on my power supplies. They bite and hold perfectly ;-)
took
Set of electrolytic capacitors
choose whichever you want!
Heat shrink tubing for all occasions!
choose any diameter!
Fix the wires or make a harness out of them? You can't do without cable ties!
Choose to your taste and color!
Box for storing radio components 24 compartments.
Here reference
And also for 36 compartments
Here link.
Book for storing SMD components. I wrote more about it in this article.
You can look and buy this link.
RGB LEDs 10 pieces
We are watching
A set of diodes for all occasions
We are watching
Powerful diode bridge. It can drive a current through itself, with a power of 50 amperes! Provided that it will stand on the radiator.
choose which is cheaper.
Squeeze, squeeze, squeeze? Small vise is always relevant on the desktop:
Choose!
Side cutters for wiring and pins of microcircuits. Must have on every desktop!
We are watching
Pen-knife. Very sharp and thin. Much more convenient than a stationery knife. 5 blades included.
We are watching
Extractor for very delicate dismantling of microcircuits. A must have for renovations! How to work with it, you can read in this article.
You can look and buy
Tip for soldering iron Lukey, as well as for other soldering irons
Choose to your taste and color!
But still, in terms of heat transfer, it is copper that is considered the best, but they burn very quickly:
You can take a set, or you can take one. choose !
PCB racks
Here reference
There are also plastic (nylon)
Here link to them
A set of bolt nuts for your crafts
We are watching
Paper for
Translates the drawing very high quality! Look at this link
Aluminum tray with magnetic bottom for small parts:
You can look .
A set of quality drills for printed circuit boards
We are watching
Collets for taste and color. Do not forget to first measure the shaft of your mini-drill, and then buy a collet in size for this shaft
Choose and watch
Best-in-class desoldering braid. I only use her. The rest of the examples leave much to be desired.
We take
A set of ceramic droplet capacitors