In today's article, we will talk about decorating metal surfaces with our own hands. Many craftswomen who are fond of decoupage, having tried different ways of decorating objects, are in search of new ideas for creativity. Decoupage on metal can be one of them.

Having decided to make decoupage for metal, the selected surfaces must first of all be degreased and sanded. These processes are required for better adhesion of the primer to the plane. If rust is found on the surface, it is treated with a special cleaning agent, which can be purchased at specialized hardware stores.

In the next step, you will need to prime the metal surface. Here you can use a special tool with a gypsum base, which in the future will be able to prevent the decor from peeling off. Acrylic based paints are not suitable for priming metal products. Many needlewomen use a water-based emulsion as a primer.

The primer should be applied in several coats with intermediate sanding with light pressure. Use a sponge to apply the primer, as using a brush for this purpose can cause the paint to curl, as a result of which it simply peels off the surface.

On metal surfaces, two or more layers of primer are usually applied, depending on which item you have chosen for decoupage. When your choice fell on a tea box, a box of pastries, it is noticeable that colorful layers have already been applied to them, which may subsequently come through. In this case, you need to remove all motifs using acetone and sandpaper.

The situation is more complicated with old teapots and cans. Removing paint from such metal surfaces is quite difficult. Here you can try to make decoupage on an uncleaned object. It is worth working with a small area on the selected product. So you can understand whether decoupage on metal will work without first removing the paint layer with a simple degreasing of the surface. If there is rust, do not forget to use a special cleaner. But still, the main condition under which decoupage is carried out on metal is sanding and priming of one or another metal plane. After that, the product is already covered with paint and decorated using selected images from a napkin, card or printout.

Video: Decoupage on a metal jug

Master class on decoupage on a heating battery

In the practical part of our article, we will analyze a master class that will help you make decoupage of a heating battery with your own hands. For beginners, this lesson is equipped with step-by-step photos illustrating the process.

So, for work you need to prepare:

• decor item - heating batteries;
• sandpaper;
• white enamel with a matte effect;
• rice paper with a suitable plot;
• brushes;
• acrylic based paints;
• PVA glue;
• varnish resistant to temperature changes.

Before decoupage of the battery, its surface is thoroughly washed and lightly sanded. After performing these steps, wipe the battery again from dust residues. Do not take nitro enamel for work. In the case where the previous paint layer had an oil base, nitro painting may form bubbles on the surface.

Drying of paint occurs within twelve or eighteen hours.

This master class for decoupage of a heating battery chose a Provence style plot applied to rice paper, the size of which is thirty-four by one hundred centimeters. Since the decorated battery has irregularities, you must first measure the width of the fragments. As a result, the paper is drawn into nine-centimeter sections on the reverse side and cut.

Having decided on the area for fixing the picture, the plot is glued in the center of the radiator.

For work, you can use both special glue for decoupage and PVA, previously diluted with water in a ratio of one to one. Start gluing from the center of the picture, gradually moving towards its borders.

After the plot is fixed, you need to paint. At this stage, you will need to choose the right shades of colors for the selected motif and draw some areas to more clearly highlight the image and the decoupage of the battery itself.

Decoupage of the heating battery is coming to an end. At the end of all work on the dried surface, you need to apply a heat-resistant varnish. This will help protect your work and extend its life. In the photo, you can see the finished result. So, based on a simple master class for beginners, you can try to decorate the heating battery with your own hands.

Video: We decorate the battery with decoupage

Bringing beauty into the world is not only an honorable occupation, but also a pleasant one. Pleasant, because with our own hands we can ennoble any household item, improve the mastered technique and learn new ways of decorating. Decoupage of a bucket or watering can is a simple, affordable way to make a nice-looking home accessory out of metal containers. A master class on decorating metal objects will allow you to easily turn an old bucket into a work of applied art.

Decoupage technique and its possibilities

Decoupage - gluing paper drawings to any surface. Metal objects are found in the house quite often, if you thought that galvanized buckets, planters or watering cans were not too pretentious for your home, then by applying the napkin technique, correct your attitude, acquire several exclusive items, a master of decorative works will wake up in you. It is difficult to overestimate the class of such items, they are multifunctional and serve for a long time.

Decoupage - gluing paper drawings to any surface!

Metal flower pots will decorate the garden, any corner of the house, and if you decorate it and plant bulbous primroses, then spring will settle in the house.

An old galvanized bucket will get a second life if you make just a few strokes of glue over the picture. It will receive a second life as a pot for a large home flower and will become a Provence-style item for decorating the interior of a house.

Small buckets can store writing utensils, make them part of the table setting for Easter, put flowers in them, use them as pots for house plants, they will organically fit into a mini garden on the balcony as a stand, hanging planter or decoration.

Watering cans made of metal are durable, but rarely, they are beautiful, napkins, a little time and imagination will also help to correct the situation. And you can use the watering can for its intended purpose and as a decor for a garden or kitchen.

Decoupage technique is easy to perform. To start decorating a bucket or other metal object, you need materials and creative tools. Numerous photos confirm the luxury of needlework results.

Paints, varnishes, tools and consumables (master class)

Let's take a closer look at how to make decoupage on a metal surface using an iron watering can as an example in a detailed master class. The object is utilitarian, important and small - after decorating it, the next step is to decoupage the surface of the bucket. From the shape of the object, the essence does not change, having caught the essence of decorating metal surfaces, you will cope with the task easily.

Having caught the essence of decorating metal surfaces, you will cope with the task easily!

What needs to be prepared:

• napkins;
• acrylic paints: white and multi-colored (you can get by with white acrylic paint and artistic gouache);
• acrylic primer for metal;
• acrylic varnish;
• sandpaper (fine);
• brushes (wide synthetic + thin for painting);
• a palette for mixing paints (or a disposable plastic plate);
• a glass of water for rinsing brushes;
• narrow masking tape;
• new sponge.

Decor step by step

Step 1: prepare the metal surface for subsequent decorating work. To do this, thoroughly wash and treat the surface with a degreasing agent using a cotton pad or cloth.

Step 2: The master class is designed for beginners, so proceed with the following steps safely! We begin to prime the surface, this must be done carefully with a brush. White acrylic primer eliminates the need to paint the object with several layers of paint. Also, the primer ensures the adhesion of all subsequent layers to the metal base. Therefore, the stage is very important for the quality of the finished product.. Apply paint to the dried primed surface. You can get by with white, but this is not so interesting - the cream color is more noble and suitable for any interior. The class of decorative art is determined by the number of shades of color.

To get warm shades, mix white paint and a few drops of burnt umber on the palette, add a little yellow. Add paint or gouache in very small portions, control the process to get the desired color. Apply the finished color to the watering can with a sponge with tamponing movements. Dry.

Step 3: Use nail scissors to cut out a piece of napkin and carefully remove the bottom white layers. They are not used during operation. If you forget to remove it, then the pattern glued from several layers will wrinkle. In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish. Gently, starting from the top edge, attach a napkin. Smooth with a soft cloth and coat with glue (varnish). The drawing can be from different sides, act in such a way as to glue everything, but do not damage the previous work. Dry, cover everything made with acrylic varnish and dry again. The high class of the product is characterized by impeccable execution.

In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish!

Step 4: This can be finished, but the subject clearly lacks character, so additional drawing is required. To get a straight line when painting a part of an object in a different color, use masking tape. Stick it in the place where the separation will be, make sure that the tape fits snugly, otherwise the paint will spread and a clear line will not work. Each decoupage master has his own techniques for drawing a straight line - masking tape is the most popular.

Step 5: Using a wide flat brush, draw an imitation of ribbon stitches, but first make a markup with a simple pencil. To do this, mix acrylic paints in a plate in such a way that one edge of the brush captures a light tone and the other a dark tone of paint. Dry the paint and apply varnish on top, dry. Now you should give depth to the picture - shade the leaves. It is worth shading with a gray tint with the addition of barely noticeable greenery. Do this stage of the artwork with a thin brush.

In order for the paint to lay down well, dilute it a little with water (it is important that it does not spread at the same time). Put a smear along the contour, or slightly capturing the edge of the picture, do not leave white spots. So that the rest of the field does not seem empty, put dots with a thin brush - this will be an imitation of small peas. Decoupage completed.

Step 6: Varnish the entire work, make two or three layers. Treat the surface with fine sandpaper, wipe and varnish again.

Using the step-by-step instructions described, the master class will allow you to master the technique and technology. Thanks to it, you can decorate a bucket, coffee pot, planter and any other metal object. The decoupage master will also add the luxury of an art object to an old metal iron. The work uses not only napkins, but also postcards, magazine illustrations, photos.

Photo gallery:

Video:

Decoupage lessons

Part 4

Decoupage on metal, porcelain, ceramics.

Hello to all needlewomen!

We continue the lessons of decoupage.

You have already met with,.

Today we will talk about decoupage on metal, porcelain and ceramics.

Decor using decoupage technique can be done on various metal surfaces - old rusty cans, galvanized buckets and cans, watering cans, tea jars, old thermoses.

First of all, pay attention to the presence of rust on the item. If rust is present, clean it with a special tool such as Antirust. Rust removers are available at a hardware or hardware store. Remove rust according to the instructions supplied with the product.

Then prime the surface. A special gypsum-based agent is best suited.

You can also make a primer at home.

To do this, mix the dry gypsum mixture with water and a few drops of PVA glue until the consistency of sour cream.

Decoupage on porcelain, ceramics.

Porcelain and ceramics are quite fragile. Working with them requires special care. But the end result is worth it. You can successfully decorate simple vases, statuettes, dishes, turning them into a great gift.

The principle of decoupage of porcelain and ceramics is almost the same as decoupage on glass.

But there is one difference: Pre-treat very smooth surfaces with sandpaper.

First, degrease the surface with alcohol or acetone.

If the product has a decorative focus, use the same tools and techniques as for .

If you intend to use the dishes for their intended purpose, use special glue for glass or porcelain.

Attach a napkin motif to the work surface and apply glue on top of it. Gently smooth the napkin with a brush or fingers dipped in glue from the middle to the edge.

If this is a motif from a decoupage card, first apply glue to the back of the motif. Gently press it to the surface, level it, then apply glue again on top.

Dry the work for 24 hours and bake in the oven. The temperature and baking time are indicated on the adhesive package. After turning off the oven, leave the work in it until it cools down completely.

Such dishes can be used in everyday life and even washed in a dishwasher.

As you already know, decoupage on metal easy to perform and accessible even to a beginner.

Decoupage on ceramics is more difficult, so start from the first.

In the next article ondecoupage on plastic, fabrics, candle decoupage.

Good luck with your creations with our !

Decoupage on a metal surface

Lesson 9. Decoupage of metal surfaces

Features of decoupage of metal surfaces

General rules for decoupage for metal

If there is rust, then be sure to treat it with a rust converter. Moreover, we process until all the rust is gone, repeated processing may be necessary. If this is not done, then corrosion will certainly go further and soon the decor may fall off.
Sanding of all metal surfaces is mandatory. The only exceptions are well-polished surfaces, such as stainless steel.
Be sure to degrease. In this case, we not only degrease, but also remove the remains of the rust converter.
We prime in decoupage for metal with a special primer - enamel on rust. Three times, with intermediate sanding. Primer - it is better to take white enamel, so as not to prime again later.
Prints can be glued to urethane varnish, they adhere well, but only on more or less even surfaces, since urethane varnish does not make the paper plastic, as acrylic varnish does, and if your surface is too curved, then the motif may not stick.
If the decor needs to be made strong, you can generally refuse to use water products.
When painting and hovering the background, you can use the same primer - enamel on rust, mixed with acrylic paints or gouache to the desired color.
Before applying the finish in decoupage for metal, the surface must be well sanded, it must be as smooth as possible. Alkyd-urethane varnishes are all self-levelling and self-levelling, so if the surface is well sanded beforehand, and then a sufficient amount (but not overdone) of the finishing varnish is applied, then there will be no streaks or streaks.
Non-aqueous products always turn yellow to some extent, so if your product is not vintage, it is better not to apply more than a couple of layers of finish.
It must be remembered that all non-aqueous products have an odor, often unpleasant, and use them in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.
If the metal is heated, for example, samovars, lanterns, kerosene lamps, then heat-resistant paints and varnishes should be used.

Now let's go through all the metal surfaces for decoupage on metal in turn.

Decoupage of galvanized iron and aluminum utensils

The most striking example of a galvanized blank for decoupage for metal is everyone's favorite metal watering can from Ikea, which only the lazy did not decoupage. So, in order:
Be sure to skin well.
Be sure to degrease with acetone
We prime the soil - with enamel over rust three times with intermediate sanding with zero
Glue the print
Background, painting
Skinning
Finish coat

Decoupage of painted metal

Thermoses, trays, tea and cookie boxes, planters, mailboxes, spice jars and many other painted metal objects are used in metal decoupage. Wherein:

Be sure to wash off the old paint using a special remover for old paintwork surfaces (sold in hardware stores). Do not neglect this point, since the apparent speed of decoupage with unremoved paint will result in the fact that you still have to remove this paint, but already along with the decor. It will be a shame because it will be, so it is better to wash it off immediately.
Sand the surface well.
Degrease with acetone.
Priming the primer - enamel on rust.
Sand well.
Paste the print.
Sanding.
Finish coating.

Decoupage stainless steel

Stainless steel items - teapots, pots, flasks, thermoses are also often the object of decoupage for metal, flasks are especially popular - a good gift and done pretty quickly.

If the stainless surface is well processed, it can not be sanded, degreased well enough.
You can also not primer, and if you take a print on thin paper, you get a very beautiful silvery glimpse.
Background and underdrawing.
We varnish and sand well.
Finish surface.

Decoupage cast iron

Decoupage of cast irons, old cast iron irons has been very fashionable lately, some make watches out of old cast iron pans.

The most important thing. The cast-iron surface is very uneven, so we skin it very well with a large sandpaper. If this is not done, then in the process of work all the irregularities will definitely appear, and they still have to be removed.
We degrease.
We prime.
I'm sanding the soil.
I glue the print.
Background, drawing.
Finish coating.

Decoupage of enamelware

Cans, mugs, coffee pots, saucepans and many other enameled utensils are the subject of do-it-yourself metal decoupage.

Unlike painted surfaces, we do not wash off the enamel, but we skin it very well, giving the surface the necessary roughness for better adhesion to the ground.
Degrease with acetone.
We primed in three layers with sanding. If the enameled object is light, then you can not primer. And if the object is still light, but there is a drawing, then the entire surface will have to be primed, because if only the drawing is primed, then it will be very visible, it will differ in color.
Glue the print.
Background, drawing.
We finish the entire surface of the product, even if the print is smaller in size.

Well, my dears, we have considered the topic of metal decoupage for beginners. Write questions in the comments, I will definitely try to answer.
Always yours, Miroslava.

MK No. 1 _______________________________________________

MK No. 2 ____________________________________________

Master class on decoupage on a metal surface "Lacy overflows of summer"

Today we will prepare for spring and decorate two elegant metal planters that will become an amazing decoration for our home.

We will work in decoupage technique.

Materials:

1. metal blanks
2. alcohol
3. acrylic primer
4. sandpaper
5. sponge
6. synthetic brush
7. acrylic paints
8. one step craquelure
9. napkins
10. synthetic varnish

Step 1

Degrease the surface of the pots with alcohol.

We moisten a piece of sponge with acrylic primer, remove the excess so that the sponge is semi-dry, and apply primer to the surface of the planter with light “bumping” movements. We do not press hard, the movements should be soft and fast, if bubbles form, walk over this place with a dry sponge.

When all pots are covered with soil, leave it to dry.

We do the same with the second pot.

Step 2

We decide what color the cracks will be on our planters. I chose lilac for one, pink for the second.

You can take several shades of the range we need - this will make our cracks more interesting.

With such light “bang” movements we apply the paint of the desired shade; here you can not try to make the color transitions smooth and imperceptible, because. we will then cover this colored background with white paint, through which our cracks will appear.

After the paint is applied, let it dry properly. Then, with fine sandpaper, we go over the entire surface with paint, remove irregularities from the sponge. Strongly not three, so as not to tear off the paint. The goal is to level the surface.

Step 3

We apply craquelure.

I do this with my finger, gently apply craquelure to the entire painted surface of the planter. We make sure there are no leaks.

Let dry for about 30-40 minutes.

Step 4

When the craquelure is completely dry, apply white paint with a sponge.

You need to try to do it quickly and, if possible, do not go through the same place twice. Movements should be light, fast, precise.

Cracks should appear before your eyes. We are waiting for the paint to dry.

Step 5

We choose the motif that we would like to see on the pots. Carefully tear out the elements we need from the napkin.

Separate the two bottom layers. We apply the top layer with the picture to the place we need.

We glue the motif with a flat synthetic brush and PVA glue. We carefully coat the motif from the center to the edges, trying to smooth out the formed folds. We work carefully so as not to tear the napkin.

We leave to dry.

Step 6

Lacquering pots.

To do this, we need a synthetic varnish.

Gently with a flat brush, apply varnish to the surface of the pots.

We are waiting for the varnish to dry, apply another layer. Lacquering until the result is satisfactory.

Here's what I got:

Inspiration and spring mood!

MK 3____________________________________

What needs to be prepared:

• napkins;
• acrylic paints: white and multi-colored (you can get by with white acrylic paint and artistic gouache);
• acrylic primer for metal;
• acrylic varnish;
• sandpaper (fine);
• brushes (wide synthetic + thin for painting);
• a palette for mixing paints (or a disposable plastic plate);
• a glass of water for rinsing brushes;
• narrow masking tape;
• new sponge.

Decor step by step

Step 1: prepare the metal surface for subsequent decorating work. To do this, thoroughly wash and treat the surface with a degreasing agent using a cotton pad or cloth.

Step 2: The master class is designed for beginners, so proceed with the following steps safely! We begin to prime the surface, this must be done carefully with a brush. White acrylic primer eliminates the need to paint the object with several layers of paint. Also, the primer ensures the adhesion of all subsequent layers to the metal base. Therefore, the stage is very important for the quality of the finished product.. Apply paint to the dried primed surface. You can get by with white, but this is not so interesting - the cream color is more noble and suitable for any interior. The class of decorative art is determined by the number of shades of color.

To get warm shades, mix white paint and a few drops of burnt umber on the palette, add a little yellow. Add paint or gouache in very small portions, control the process to get the desired color. Apply the finished color to the watering can with a sponge with tamponing movements. Dry.

Step 3: Use nail scissors to cut out a piece of napkin and carefully remove the bottom white layers. They are not used during operation. If you forget to remove it, then the pattern glued from several layers will wrinkle. In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish. Gently, starting from the top edge, attach a napkin. Smooth with a soft cloth and coat with glue (varnish). The drawing can be from different sides, act in such a way as to glue everything, but do not damage the previous work. Dry, cover everything made with acrylic varnish and dry again. The high class of the product is characterized by impeccable execution.

In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish!

Step 4: This can be finished, but the subject clearly lacks character, so additional drawing is required. To get a straight line when painting a part of an object in a different color, use masking tape. Stick it in the place where the separation will be, make sure that the tape fits snugly, otherwise the paint will spread and a clear line will not work. Each decoupage master has his own techniques for drawing a straight line - masking tape is the most popular.

Step 5: Using a wide flat brush, draw an imitation of ribbon stitches, but first make a markup with a simple pencil. To do this, mix acrylic paints in a plate in such a way that one edge of the brush captures a light tone and the other a dark tone of paint. Dry the paint and apply varnish on top, dry. Now you should give depth to the picture - shade the leaves. It is worth shading with a gray tint with the addition of barely noticeable greenery. Do this stage of the artwork with a thin brush.

In order for the paint to lay down well, dilute it a little with water (it is important that it does not spread at the same time). Put a smear along the contour, or slightly capturing the edge of the picture, do not leave white spots. So that the rest of the field does not seem empty, put dots with a thin brush - this will be an imitation of small peas. Decoupage completed.

Step 6: Varnish the entire work, make two or three layers. Treat the surface with fine sandpaper, wipe and varnish again.

Using the step-by-step instructions described, the master class will allow you to master the technique and technology. Thanks to it, you can decorate a bucket, coffee pot, planter and any other metal object. The decoupage master will also add the luxury of an art object to an old metal iron. The work uses not only napkins, but also postcards, magazine illustrations, photos.